How to Make your Longtail Mud Motor Weedless DIY Trick

Here is a weedless fix for your Thai longtail mud motor. This video was created for those who find them self with a bundle of weeds at the end of their prop. Whether you're running through cattails or thick grass, this trick should solve your problem and put those frustrating times behind you.
The kit I use and recommend is the SPS Swamp Runner kits. I have a stock 13hp Predator engine with an SPS Swamp Runner Medium kit with a standard 85" shaft. The prop you see in the video is an 8.75" weedless prop from Swamp Runner.
For this fix, all you will need is 3/4" (.75") and 1" PVC pipe (sch 40 = regular thickness), a method for cutting the PVC, and I also used sandpaper to make it fit the way I wanted it too.
Measure the distance between your end bushing and the front of your prop. Cut your 3/4" and 1" PVC pipe to that length. Put the 3/4" PVC pipe inside of the 1" PVC pipe. Take your prop off of your longtail. Put the PVC spacer on your shaft and put the prop back onto the shaft. Make sure that PVC spacer can turn freely!
Before you tighten your prop down, make sure you know how to get it back off or make the modification to the spacer as I did at the end (I'll list how to make that modification below). Once the prop is fully tightened down, make sure the PVC spacer can still turn freely. Each prop will sit at different places on the shaft so keep that in mind. My 9" prop sits really high up on the shaft so keep an eye out for that!
Modification to make the PVC spacer easily removable will the prop is still on the shaft: I cut the PVC spacer into slices, and then cut it down the center on one side. This way it can clip on and off of the shaft so I can still use the prop puller to get a prop off of the shaft.
The downside to this weedless fix = you can't use your prop puller unless you make the modification to the PVC spacer (listed above). Without the modification to the spacer, I know it 100% works. I haven't tested this new modification like I have the original spacer. It seems to work, but I still need to test it more.
Thank you for watching! I hope this video was able to help you and that you enjoyed it! If you liked it, please give it a thumbs up! If you would like to see more videos like this, please subscribe to help support the channel and to help it grow!
If you saw something you liked in the video, and you're not sure what it was, check my Amazon store and you may be able to find it there - amazon.com/shop/jtgatoring
If you would like to do a little extra to help support the channel, without costing you anything, use the link below before doing your shopping at Amazon. This is the single greatest way to support JTgatoring, and you won't even notice a difference when you check out!
amzn.to/2MJ4mrW
I now also have a Patreon at / jtgatoring if you would like become a member of a small niche community that has special perks and rewards.
Thank you for watching!
Music by Epidemic Sound.
#jonboat #mudmotor #swamprunner

[@SluSharkND]

Another great vid, JT. I appreciate that you show your process and don't just start with the finished product.

[@JTgatoring]

Thank you SluSharkND! I try to keep that in mind, but I also try to keep it under 10 minutes. Thank you for the feedback!!

[@GetOutTheHouseGoFish]

Great idea👍😃I’m gonna have to try this.

[@JTgatoring]

GetOutTheHouseGoFish thank you! I'll be looking for it on your videos!!

[@pfcshawley1]

Couldnt get out this morning and the afternoon storms are rolling in now. Tomorrow morning im trying this!

[@JTgatoring]

Yeah, the weather was not good today! Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you!! Will you be splitting the spacer into pieces, or are you keeping the spacer as one piece?

[@pfcshawley1]

JTgatoring i already made a one piece spacer before I saw your video. Going to do a with and without test. Ill take some pics and videos of it and the area im in for ya. I'll send em to you through FB.

[@JTgatoring]

You're awesome! 👊

[@pfcshawley1]

JTgatoring sent you some content on FB messenger.

[@Oversoul225]

Had to get my first prop off today (to down size and get rpms back up on my smaller motor), and a standard 2-prong gear puller worked great. I think one would still have enough lip to grab even with your spacer on there.

[@JTgatoring]

Great idea! If I got one of the 2-prong gear pullers that are the bent, metal ones, I could even sand it down thinner if I needed it to fit in between the spacer and the prop. Which kind do you have? I see there are ones with a hook-like end on it and some with a flat metal end on it.

[@JustHunting]

Cool video great filming good editing I liked the video for ya #14

[@rondemers8046]

Beaver dam sent me a Teflon bushing to put between prop and tail..been working great so far....

[@JTgatoring]

ron demers great! Is it pretty similar to whats in the video, as in something that just takes up space and spins?

[@rondemers8046]

JTgatoring it is just keeps the weeds from building up......we have salt grass out here and it can get hairy

[@danlarson5614]

Had a hard time cutting wild rice off the shaft so did this with an old shaft bushing. Wild rice still wraps on it but not as bad and easier to cut off now so I guess it helps.

[@JTgatoring]

You could also try a metal weed cutter. You could use that in combination with the spacer. Look at swamp runner's website and you'll get the idea of how to make one for yourself if you don't want to purchase one. I've also found that the prop you use makes a big difference. A standard prop really eats up the vegetation and greatly increases the odds of the vegetation catching and clogging the shaft. When I use the weedless prop, I've yet to get a clog that I had to clear by hand by using just the spacer, no weed cutter bar needed.

[@georgedavis3677]

Hey JT. Another good video. Is that a sps weedless prop?

[@JTgatoring]

george davis thank you! Yes, this is an SPS Swamp Runner weedless prop. It is the 8.75" weedless prop on a medium SPS kit with an 85" shaft

[@grontek]

Slide in PVC pipe with ID of tail tube OD , cut a little and clamp their on the top of the tail pipe by hose clamp.

[@stevewilliamson8526]

never seize on the shaft at the key way allso remove the bushing screws and replace with grease fittings [Marine grease]

[@danielrichardsfishing8838]

Hey i was hoping you could answer a question for me brother. I just finally got around to installing my small swamp runner kit (212cc) and no matter what I do, I cant seem to get the shaft all the way into the coupler housing. Everything works as it should as if the inner shaft is connected to the coupler shaft, and the prop spins just fine wile running, but there is a 1/4" of play on the inner shaft by the prop and its bothering me. Is this normal or should there not be any play at all? Thanks in advance!

[@JTgatoring]

So what you need to do is loosen your wing bolts on you coupler housing and make sure your fuel is off and the engine is turned off. Once those steps are done, go to the prop and spin & push it to make sure it is engaged with the coupler shaft and that you are connected to the engine output shaft and everything turns together. Once you know everything is connected, your outer shaft (shaft housing: the long shaft that has the skeg on it) push that into the coupler as far as you can and then give the end of the skeg a few taps to seat it further. Once you did that, tighten the wing bolts up on your coupler housing and pull on the prop back and forth and see if you still have any play left. Let me know if you're able to get it

[@danielrichardsfishing8838]

@@JTgatoring Thanks for the reply. I did that a couple times. Ive even banged on the tip of the scag with a rubber mallot but it just wont budge any further. It was extremely difficult to get it in there to begin with as if the coupler housing isn't open enough for the outer shaft to fit all the way where it needs to be. I set a message to Swamp Runner this evening just waiting to hear back from them. I was just wondering if it was normal to have a little play like that cause this is my 1st one and even when the shaft is pulled out on the "play" its actually fitted to the coupler shaft and turns with the motor.

[@JTgatoring]

@@danielrichardsfishing8838 There shouldn't be any play when you grab the prop and try to move it in and out of the shaft. Maybe a little up and down and side to side depending on how worn your end bushing is, but there shouldn't be any slop pulling it in and out. The only thing it can be is your outer shaft not going into the coupler housing all the way. Take out the shaft and see if you have a distinct rub mark inside the coupler housing where it may be getting caught or preventing the shaft from going in further. Another thing to help is by twisting the longtail back and forth while pushing it into the coupler housing.

[@FFHTV]

Hey JT! Sent you a message on facebook on another possible solution besides using pvc... 😊

[@grontek]

Why nobody use electrical conduit on the top of the tail as a exhaust pipe to forced fumes under water like ordinary outboard motor does.?

[@JTgatoring]

It is additional work that is not needed. People do not see the added benefit of doing that

[@DrewVerdin]

Aye just hold it an wack it off 😂🤪

[@DrewVerdin]

Could you do the same with some c rings or snap rings?

[@JTgatoring]

I tried those PVC snap on rings and they didn't work as well. The one solid piece worked the best

[@DrewVerdin]

@@JTgatoring i mean metal snap rings

[@JTgatoring]

@@DrewVerdin Where and how are you talking about using the metal snap rings?

[@DrewVerdin]

@@JTgatoring same way as the pvc rings just metal snap rings.

[@JTgatoring]

I have not. I haven't seen metal snap rings of that size. I may be able to use washers to fill the gap, but that still doesn't fix the problem of getting the prop off with the prop puller, so I don't know

[@LP-ub2ms]

you should use the same concept that worked, but do two pieces. one the thickness of the prop puller that is split and can be pulled off. the second to fill the rest of the space and isn't split.

[@JTgatoring]

L P I may end up giving that a try if this doesn't hold up well. I was surprised at how strong the PVC was and how difficult it was to pull apart after putting a cut through one side. Thank you for the idea!!

[@LP-ub2ms]

JTgatoring no problem. I just figured there would be less parts and less complication. And the split piece you could just break them off each time you want to remove the prop and have a few spares made up to replace it. Good luck.

[@robertfoote3255]

I would try using rubber hose....just cut it off....pull your prop....put a new piece back on...😁 It's cheep enough, remains "one piece" and easly removed, easly replaced....just a idea to try.....😁 I live up north in the clear water....but all boats matter! 👍

[@JTgatoring]

Yeah, that is a solid idea! No matter where you're from, ALL boats matter 👍 haha thanks for the idea!

[@robertfoote3255]

@@JTgatoring You are most welcome.....😉

[@rondemers8046]

And upgraded to a 22hp harbor freight predator....big difference between 13hp and 22

[@cdp50359]

ron demers what kit do you have

[@rondemers8046]

C Price. I have the medium kit....just had to go up to a 9.5 inch prop and 100 in shaft

[@JTgatoring]

How does that run for you on your 1448 Alumacraft?? Did you try running it with the 85" shaft before you got the 100"?

[@rondemers8046]

JTgatoring. Had the 100 in shaft due to 20in transom....getting 20-23 with a 9.5 in prop

[@JTgatoring]

ron demers Have you tried going to a bigger prop yet, or is your RPM's in the right range?

[@nicklausmisiti5204]

why don't the manufacturers sell these with something like this. it would probably cost them less than 50 cents

[@JTgatoring]

one of them sells a weed cutter bar now, swamp runner, and I've had some people say that the bar works but I don't have it on my longtail. The spacers I have work great so I have no need for the bar

[@insaneGeOFF]

Dremel with cutting wheel.

[@jackmehoff7149]

Hey next time you can't use your prop puller tool just disconnect the shaft from the coupler and leave the nut on the end of the shaft and loosen it and then strike it and the prop will come right off

[@JTgatoring]

Good idea Jack Mehoff. I'll have to give that a try next time I'm out

[@Sqwrly10]

Check out scavenger backwater motors, it's a long tail with a belt drive

[@JTgatoring]

I don't think I've ever seen those before. Not too good of a first impression. I'm just thinking about pull starting the motor with the engine facing the wrong way. That seems like it would be rough. Same with the throttle and choke to have to reach around to control those and the exhaust would be pointed at you to making it loud and smelly. Do you have one?

[@Sqwrly10]

@@JTgatoring no but I was talking to a guy at the launch with one he says because of the prop they use they get through thick stuff real easy, and the exhaust on his was more on the side. Neat concept I'd like to test drive one for sure and see the difference in my long tail and the belt driven

[@Sqwrly10]

Said it also solves the fuel problem he had of the fuel not flowing in the carb because of the angle.of the engine when he was running

[@JTgatoring]

@@Sqwrly10 Yeah, that's definitely different. I mean if it works for him, great! If you end up testing it out, let me know how it went! What long tail do you have?

[@Sqwrly10]

I'm running a swamp runner and I'm putting a fuel pump on her. Have a gx390 engine with a 8" prop on it pushing my 14ft boat

[@777mark100]

Cut your puller out to pipe size. I should still work fine.

[@matthewzimmerman6081]

Just buy a backwater kit. Best mud motor kit out in the market.

[@jeffccr3620]

just use some rubber hose instead of pvc. cut the hose off when you need to use the prop puller. Hose is cheap just cut several spares and keep on your boat

[@JTgatoring]

Good idea! I'll give it a try

[@jeffccr3620]

@@JTgatoring Well being as it got the PVC hot enough to melt it, it will probably do the same to the rubber. Looks like you need a thin wall brass ring. but then your back to the same issue with the prop puller. May need to modify the puller or just make another one

[@JTgatoring]

@@jeffccr3620 I have not been able to melt it. There was a guy who made a fail video but he only did one section of sch 80 pvc so yes that will melt, but this spacer is sch40 with two pvc pipes inside one another. I also had a subscriber 3d print me a spacer that has two halves that is zip-tied together that works great also. I'm still open to other solutions and possibilities. What I have right now works great if you aren't constantly changing out props to test haha

[@bryanmcpherson3576]

Weeds will still wrap around shaft regardless of what to do

[@JTgatoring]

After adding this I no longer have weeds wrapping around my shaft. Just my experience though

[@insaneGeOFF]

Try bamboo

[@joeblowjohnny2297]

Don't know why that is such a big deal and overkill ? A simple hacksaw on a slant cut can cut that piece off quick and FAST ! Swap prop , make another piece , your done !

[@tomh8018]

How crappy is a mud motor that has to be hacked from the factory to allow it to run thru weeds? I used to have a similar thai kit and was useless in the cattails we run thru in our area. I learned the hard way that there's nothing more expensive than a cheap mud motor

[@JTgatoring]

I do not have a problem with it. I enjoy my kit and how it performs. It has run through anything I have put it through. The only problem I hear from other subscribers is the cattails, just like your situation. I have already heard back from two people that said this fixed the issue of the cattails binding on the shaft. These kits work great if they are properly set up and the cost is awesome compared to a brand name surface drives. The price of these kits allow others who don't have that kind of money the chance to get out on the water and do what they need to do to have fun out on the water. I see nothing crappy about that

[@TheDtrolinder]

Why don't you just use one piece and if you need to get the prop off use a saw to cut the pvc and then use the prop puller.....

[@JTgatoring]

I didn't want to carry a saw out on the water with me. The best thing I have found is to take the once piece spacer, cut it in half, and use a zip tie to hold it together. When I need to remove it, cut the zip tie, use prop puller, then just use a new zip tie to put it together

[@GANJATeen420]

Just a little concerned about how many times you mentioned you won’t be able to get the prop off with the pvc their... you repeated yourself so many times we understood the first time it’s common sense

[@jerryartis7678]

Why didn't you use the prop that the careers in the Asian use instead of the one that you have

[@JTgatoring]

I do not know about the careers in Asia. What do they have?

[@bryanmcpherson3576]

Bad idea. It will melt and will mess up the bushing . No way to make one weedless . Lol

[@JTgatoring]

That's why I'm testing it. I haven't had a problem yet so I guess time will tell

[@MegaTroyhamilton]

just notch your tool more...kids these days!