How to Make Your Own Threaded MDF Table for the Shapeoko CNC

[@ThisDesignedThat]

made my own with plywood, works great with wood which i guess most will be using it for, but problem is, if you are doing work with metal these are not too useful, whatever lubricant you use will soak into the wood and cause it to expand. Also i found that if I wanted to clamp some metal down the threaded insert would be pulled upwards and loose the clamping force slightly. For the metal work im trying to do this isnt good enough as i'm trying to do fine engravings for graphic work. Im going to try and swap this out for a metal base of some sort if i can.

[@JamesTatePa]

I use T-Nuts installed in bottom instead of threaded inserts. This way you don't have to worry about them pulling loose and you can tighten as much as you want.

[@johncarey9149]

For my version of this, I enlarged the holes bored for the top of the wasteboard to accept readily available hardwood dowels. That means I can push dowels into the holes to locate two sides of the stock, and if my cutter decides to slice through a bit of hardwood there's no damage to anything that's too costly to replace.

[@edisonmorgan9199]

I know Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any help you can offer me.

[@muhammademmitt3243]

@Edison Morgan Instablaster :)

[@edisonmorgan9199]

@Muhammad Emmitt thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@edisonmorgan9199]

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[@muhammademmitt3243]

@Edison Morgan no problem xD

[@jej5957]

I did something similar but used 2, 5/8 mdf boards. The bottom one is threaded and the top is not and easily replaced without having to remove the threaded inserts on the bottom board.

[@YESSLEEP42]

Thanks for all these videos! Can't wait to get my cnc!

[@bobbonham4823]

Thanks! I need to do something for my waste board. Good idea.

[@MrExo_3D]

if your going to use any liquid mist or spray coolant. dont use MDF. try a HDPE 1" Thick cutting board instead. it wont swell with moisture and can also be machined level

[@kylellrc799]

Would replacing the machine's waste board with 1" HDPE would be ridged enough?

[@MrExo_3D]

@@kylellrc799 solid plastic is quite ridged but thats really up to you to decide for youself and your application

[@st1v017]

I have the XXL. What what be a feasible size waste board that I will be able to surface? I am new to CNC and just recently bought my machine. Most of the lingo is lost on me. I tried using carbide create, but I am lost.

[@tommypers7973]

When you are going to use the carbide router do you use the sleeve with or sleeve is for the dewault router ?

[@Todd-W]

i'm confused Winston. in your designing of the board, you mention that now the holes patterns are laid out with counter-bores, then later on we see you using a dewalt drill to countersink what I interpreted as your previous counter-bore exercise.

[@carbide3d]

In the Fusion version, which is what I was cutting, I prioritized machining the counterbores for the mounting bolts, not the threaded insert holes which need counterbores/countersinks on the bottom of the MDF. Easier to countersink by hand, than it is to get a 0.75" forstner bit to make 6 perfectly aligned pockets on the top.

[@Todd-W]

@@carbide3d ah, gotcha.. thanks for clarifying

[@alfredomalchiodialbedi7901]

I have seen that while cutting the 9mm pockets you used the new dust boot, the brushes bend and let you cut the pockets. Is the new Z assembly using a more powerful motor? Because I am not able to use it, as soon as the brushes touch the surface of the board the Z motor starts jerking back, it is not powerful enough to bend the brushes.

[@WinstonMakes]

I've observed this before when making straight plunges, or small diameter turns. It may be possible to source softer bristles, but in the mean time I've found that the easiest workaround is to thin out the bristles, by trimming back about half of them. It will still form a more than adequate seal in most cases, and reduce strain on the Z-axis. The Z+ having a lead screw is also several times stronger than the belt driven Z axis.

[@CommonSenseRCguy]

I didn't see any mention of flattening the wasteboard that the supplemental baseboard is mounted to. ?????

[@WinstonMakes]

Largely unnecessary IMO, the supplementary wasteboard itself is what's important to face afterwards. Unevenness in the underlying wasteboard would just mean you might have a few holes that don't get drilled through all the way. You can either cut extra deep to compensate, clean it up by hand later... or face the MDF that you stick the supplementary wasteboard stock onto in order to get it over the lip if you really care.

[@brunofonseca9686]

What's with that screw @1:34 ?

[@WinstonMakes]

You mean on the side of the carriage plate? That's actually two magnets (bar, disc) that I didn't know where to put, so I just stuck them there to hang out.

[@CR3DT]

What size machine is this on the video? Thank you

[@carbide3d]

This is the standard (smallest) Shapeoko we offer.

[@barbarrosa503]

how do you get gray background in fusion?

[@ipadize]

I like to space my screws 2.35745 cheeseburgers apart

[@carbide3d]

The cornerstone of any nutritious breakfast. 👌🏼 (-W)

[@JustinTyme1966]

So let me get this straight...you work for carbide 3D and you're showing how to make something that goes on a Carbide 3D machine but you dont use a Carbide Create to demonstrate...smh

[@marshalltjones]

If you know Winston, he is a Fusion 360 devotee. I think he did show how to do it in Carbide create in the latter part of the video.