How to Meter for Film Photography // Highlights or Shadows?

[@PikulBoy]

I've watched over a dozen videos on metering, and this was by far the most helpful. Thanks!

[@cardboardmusic]

Nice video, and very clear. I think the best bit of advice you give/gave is take three shots, exactly as you show in the end. Many times you find yourself in a situation which is not suited to taking light meter readings. It's better to have three photos to choose from, after all it can be either 125, 60 and 250 if you're worried about the focal distance, or 11, 16 & 8 in the DOF. And, as you say, you always learn something.

[@stuarthayes8477]

So happy you're at this full time now, your content is top notch and always helpful!

[@Guairenito]

If you can and want, a video about how to use a Sekonic meter correctly would also be very useful. When to use the sphere in and when to use it out. Functionalities of the metter, and stuff like that. Thank you for this video, it is very helpful.

[@hafiz2664]

Gotta say this was the metering video help I've been looking for. A lotta videos just go meter for highlights, shadows, bla bla bla without really showing the difference between them. excellent work Matt.

[@garethVanDagger]

Thanks mate, this video finally made things click for me. I now have a better understanding

[@Enevan1968]

A friend gave me a Pentax Spotmeter V last year. Best gift ever!

[@VariTimo]

That’s why the Leica M5 is so great. It’s got a spot meter that’s super precise.

[@HerfingPug]

Fantastic. Finally metering that makes sense. Thanks Matt.

[@roiloubia4483]

Thank you Matt. Excellent explanation. Short, precise and to the point..

[@Biker_Gremling]

About those light meter apps, please do both iPhone and Android ones 🙏

[@austintexas29]

Loving all of these videos you've been pumping out lately man... as always

[@ddaly20111993]

Great video on metering. I do mostly street photos so I always meter for the shadows or for skintones by metering the light hitting my hand.

[@alexandradefer9434]

This was such a helpful video for light metering! Mahalo!

[@nuj427]

Long time subscriber here. Like way back like when you uploaded just under five videos. Never commented but why not. First, man, if you've done a video like this maybe six years about you've would of really saved me tons of rolls. Started digital ten years ago, then jumped into film relaying on the meter and giving me a lot of crap in the beginning. Anyways, a great video to refresh the memories. I'm a SF native, but now living in France. If you're ever heading for Europe do let us know!

[@jonathantaylor5981]

Killing it! Maybe spot metering tutorial next?

[@_theyojimbo]

Great video streak this week Matt, been pretty bored lately and these are always interesting for me to watch! Been wanting you to make one about metering so I'm spoiled ahah

[@itsmichaelfil]

Really appreciate the side-by-side visuals!

[@StephenMilner]

Hi, what an awesome video. Keep up the superb work! I look forward to your next video.

[@hayleywood462]

This was super helpful with the examples and exactly what I was looking for!

[@MrScottCarr]

You are cranking out these great videos! PS Happy Go Skateboarding Day!

[@matthewmendoza5729]

This video couldn't have come at a better time! Just got myself a Leica M2, so not having a meter has been worrying me a bit. After seeing this though, I'm much more confident in going out with a handheld and getting the shot. Keep up the great work!

[@awprc]

Just had to mention your Leica

[@matthewmendoza5729]

@@awprc Would have mentioned any camera I had. Have a good one!

[@awprc]

@@matthewmendoza5729 Just had to reply

[@ItsTOUGHtobeFascinating]

I'm new to film, so this video was very helpful. Thanks!

[@hughwolfe1176]

Thank you Matt. This is good basic information film or digital. Makes me want to dig out my fathers old Contaflex vintage '53 and shoot a roll.

[@mattdayphoto]

Hugh Wolfe go for it!

[@nicholaschalmers4537]

Thanks so much Matt. This was perfectly explained.

[@voyagersquaremuzika]

I never use light meter,i use my experience and sunny 16 rule. Great videos man!

[@Dunnoxer]

Oooh, can't wait for the smartphone app video!

[@jaymangussad9697]

This is really helpful Matt! I generally shoot overexposed by on stop metered in the shadows when shooting color negatives, i guess ill start trying to try and meter the midtones for maximum latitude. Keep em videos coming!

[@pmartinez358]

Buy a lightmeter on a whim.... video on how to use it properly comes up the same way....WIN!

[@mattdayphoto]

Ghost_Vinyl_Media58 it’s destiny!

[@buyaport]

Thanks a lot for putting this video together. I am VERY MUCH looking forward to a video covering the smartphone apps!

[@johngskewes]

Hi Matt- Your channel is very useful - thank you. I have recently been trying to unlearn digital photography, and learn...film photography. The most useful tools I have for learning right now are my Sekonic L-508 and my Fujifilm X-T3. Using the Fuji in manual mode (adapted manual lenses,) I meter the scene, make a judgement, then see the effect. After a few weeks of this, I am able to use the Fuji and the meter and not "cheat." I am more confident and the results are predictable. I set the meter and the camera ISO a half a stop apart - it's my feeling the camera is darker than film. I'd be interested in your thoughts. Thanks for all the great work. My film cameras are a Spotmatic and Zorki 4K.

[@Pineappletrainable]

This was exactly what i was looking for, super good info. Thanks

[@mattdayphoto]

Glad to hear it!

[@sednasix6608]

Simple, down to the point.

[@janbeers3952]

Hello from Holland Matt. You mention exposure bracketing which seems a clever idea. How do you ‘remember’ what exposure you were shooting on in the first place? Do you take notes? When I get film back that is not exposures right I often miss that. And again an again I forget. Not so clever. Love your channel! Kind regards, Jan

[@kribomon]

Great and informative video! Cheers Matt!

[@Litosjr24TV]

thanks for this super helpful video. It has cleared some doubts i had...thanks again dude!

[@candykanefpv]

4:40 how about metering off the middle shadows? not the darkest parts of his face, but the parts that are middle of the ground. Not highlights, not shadows. And then getting that dialed in to "neutral grey" and you've got highlights that aren't blown out, and shadows that are nice. So on a digital camera, using spot meter to get in on an area with nice neutral shadows. The lighter shadows on the face.

[@DirtyyDom]

That was so helpful and to the point. Thank you for this.

[@CARLOSGUTIERREZ65]

Trev is awesome. I got a chance to chat with him a bit at the Paiedeia. Great guy and photographer.

[@lifeonfilm7227]

Cool stuff. I usually meter off my hand If I tend to nail skin exposure. Otherwise I'm all about good old sunny 16!

[@sonygoup]

I always meter for shadows, it doesn't always work. But I get a over/under exposed images every 2-3 images a roll. I just started using a Sekonic l308 for my Bronica and I'm confused because leaving the cover on gives a different reading then off. Most cases the off give good readings.

[@katha.m]

This is exactly what I was looking for ! Thank you so much

[@terrywbreedlove]

I will be shooting Velvia 100 in 4x5 this week in a very green HOH rainforest. I will use my Sekonic but really not sure about my capabilities with it yet. I have 20 sheets and plan to shoot them all this week.

[@Crying_Kyle]

Legit the video that I was looking for only till recently I started wondering about how to use a light meter. Thank you Matt for this helpful video!

[@vectorhunter4659]

this video helps me a lot Matt! thank you

[@aristoioannidis7490]

A Grade material Matt! Thanks you so much.

[@photog1529]

All meters (handheld, in-camera, etc.) provide mid-tone exposure readings. From that point, the photographer still needs to determine where he or she wants the shadows or highlights to fall and adjust the exposure accordingly. The meter reading is just a starting point.

[@spencerrobertson604]

Reflected and incident meters don’t work the same at all.

[@Exercises10]

Good video thanks for sharing! You said color negative film holds highlight detail well so meter sometimes between highlights and shadows depending on how bright light is. What if shooting b&w does this logic hold true there too? I just bought my first film camera and I am excited to give this a try!! Thank you

[@shaunhall8158]

Great video, thanks Matt.

[@jllanesphoto]

Great video, thanks Matt!!!

[@argallegos8558]

Helpful video. Thanks Matt!

[@aladinsarsipeus]

I’m learning 35mm film photography the dumb expensive way. Roll after roll of 35mm film. I did start using Lux a couple of weeks ago though😀

[@TracyClayton]

Gonna love the Matt Day + Darkroom Lab collaboration. Looking forward to it.

[@mattdayphoto]

Tracy Clayton thanks, man!

[@2filmshooters]

We always meter for the shadow! Good job man!

[@theartistFKAjudge]

Dude THANK YOU!!! Just picked up a L-308X-U and needed to know wtf I need to do😂

[@GrandTreasureBay]

This was hugely helpful. Thank you!

[@alteki]

Well done. Very useful information. Thank you.

[@leidibugz]

Was that light meter apps video finally uploaded? I'm curious about thatttt

[@mostdefinitelyhenry]

i always meter for shadows with my mamiya 7/canon a1. color film has multiple layers that you need to expose! if you underexpose, you’re only penetrating through half of those layers!

[@chrisperceval193]

Not true - the film has 3 layers but they do not block each other (they are sensitised to different frequencies) - a 400 speed colour film has the same sensitivity as a 400 B&W film. How you meter will depend on the negs you like to print and, if you are getting technical, the HD (Hurter/Driffield) (or d log E) curve of the film. Colour neg has a very long and not particularly steep straight mid section of the curve. Shouldering off is gentle meaning highlights are handled well without blow out. The contrast reducing mask (the orange thing) in the neg film helps create this sort of characteristic curve. Transparency film obviously cannot have the orange mask and normally has a much more S shaped curve with quite a steep mid section giving good mid tone separation. The trade off is less latitude meaning shadows can block or highlights blow more quickly. B&W films vary but are generally between the two. Some are more forgiving than others - Tri-X is more contrasty, having a steeper gamma than say HP5. TMax100 has very little shouldering off at the highlight end of the curve so highlights can blow pretty easily - careful exposure and developing is needed to avoid this - and make use of the many qualities this film has.

[@lexie95hannah]

FINALLY! i now get it. thank you!

[@jeuneflingue307]

Thanks for this vid ! This was really clear ! :)

[@yangjiazhen]

Very nice video! Concise but informative. Thank you.

[@davehyper7835]

About the best advice you can get all compressed into a 6 min video! Excellent stuff sir!

[@johnmccarthy169]

Well, whatever happened to knowing about middle gray, and one stop over that and one stop under that idea relative to what you are looking to do? Or metering several places to get an idea about the number of stops?

[@TankDude]

Outstanding video! Extremely helpful since I bought a Mamiya C330 :)

[@lolmdr431]

great video, thank you Matt !

[@KeithCanisius]

Great video, just where I'm at in my learning curve..

[@leoneeds9311]

Thank you Matt, but you should have mentioned that all this information is about negative film, as slide film has absolutely different physics. It'll be cool to see your thoughts about slide film metering too

[@mattdayphoto]

Leo Shipelik 2:16

[@westsenkovec]

Ok, what about a Leica rangefinder or SLR. The metering is center weighted, right? So can you put the center on the subject of the portrait to meter and then recompose? I'm asking you since you use a Leica and I don't know similar the results are compared to spot metering.

[@mattdayphoto]

West Senkovec yep! Same method!

[@mynciee]

Hey Matt! Thank you for the video. Looking forward to the next one because I have had mixed experiences with light metering apps. I will say however there are really simple sunny 16 apps out there- I use one that's just a simple slider with ISO, aperture and shutter speed and based on the lighting condition it your choices to what would work together.

[@VariTimo]

That’s why the Leica M5 is so awesome. It’s got a spot meter that’s super reliable. I can determine perfect exposure for slide film with it even in really insane contrast situations. I usually meter for the brighter parts of the shadows with negativ film because I don’t like that overexposed look and I want *all* the details in the highlight. Although often enough when shooting Portra 400 I just try not to underexpose to much and occasionally even shoot wide open in the daylight.

[@joseuribe1552]

great info, however I shoot mostly b&w film, would you meter the same way? For digital I almost always meter for the highlights for a moody/dramatic look that I like. Would you meter the same for black and white film to get that moody look.

[@rebeccaharris334]

Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!

[@nineteenseventy4588]

The Lumu Light Meter app does have a very usable spot Meter in it which can be used without the rather expensive Lumu itself.

[@michaelgizicki9625]

really great and helpful

[@khalilhenderson4082]

This is great information, does distance matter as well? So If I’m further away from the subject should i consider metering differently? Or always meter up close.

[@maxheadroom3000]

Finally the vid we needed. Thanks yo!

[@jonathanhornby]

I shot a short film using an Aaton Prod super-16mm camera. My DSLR, phone app and the Aaton camera’s meter all gave different readings. I decided trusting the Aaton’s meter, which meters for the light reflecting off the film; I used a grey card since the scenes showed all spectrums of skin tones. The Aaton metered about +1 to +2 compared to the DSLR but the results were perfect. I could have easily exposed for even more. Film is amazing, even IF there’s no LCD preview 😉 #ShotFilm #FilmWins

[@elainethi]

thank you so much!! this is exactly what i was looking for (-:

[@pureangeles]

This is so helpful! How would you do this timestamp 5.25 when only using the build in camera light meter and without moving close to the subject?

[@CrazyCalabrese78]

Celina you could either point to the shadowed wall nearby and make sure the viewfinder is mainly seeing the shadows or you could hold your palm out in front of you and try to fill a large part (if not all of) the viewfinder with your hand. Set the aperture and shutter speed so the camera meter reads 1 stop overexposed (if you have light Caucasian skin). If you have darker skin you can probably set the meter to zero (correct exposure). Plus set your meter a little bit over to start with to be safe. E.g Portra 400, set your camera speed to 320 or even 200 so the meter uses that for its reading.

[@pureangeles]

@@CrazyCalabrese78 Just seeing this. Thank you so much for the help!

[@CrazyCalabrese78]

Celina no problems, hope it helps!

[@j.fontaine2491]

Great video. Great examples. Great hat. 🤟🏽

[@timmyd999]

Super stuff matt. Would love a similar video of how to meter scenes at night :)

[@AbduStudio]

Everything I needed to know! Thanks 😊

[@demkadeem]

Smartphone ones are pretty accurate. I use Lux and it hasn’t failed me yet

[@matthewjensen8681]

You're right there..... but it feels so good to use a light meter it makes me feel important and professional. I wouldn't have gotten one if my photo class didn't have it on the list of items to get. Sadly, the teacher said phones are just fine and I spent 200 bucks for nothing, but it's so nice to have a piece of kit /specifically/ made for one purpose.

[@edscannell1019]

Great video Matt....quick question were you shooting at box speed in those examples?

[@alexczompoly4219]

Amazing video. What camera did u use tho?

[@thedondeluxe6941]

Good video! Anyone have any tips for a film stock that can handle underexposure fairly well? I sometimes find myself wanting to underexpose film shots to achieve a certain look, but I'm not too keen on the grayish, super grainy shadows look. I've had some good results with Provia 100, but ideally I would like to use a higher speed negative film. I'm guessing CineStill 800T is probably the best alternative.

[@johntazbaz1121]

The Don DeLuxe Portra 400 might be what you need.

[@jacquelinepuga8315]

Super cool. Thanks!

[@oopsydaisy74]

Looking forward to that metering app video

[@ribbitrocks]

i guess i'll never get the hang of this... when you say it all depends on the look you're going for, do you even think i know"? im just trying to get a decent photo.....its always easy when you do it every day and i don't :)

[@mosephina]

Hi...newbie here, so forgive me if I get the terminology mixed up. I've read two separate articles that recommend Incident light metering for the shadows. Metering for a 1/2 the box speed (ASA 100, metered as if ASA 50), setting the meter to EV -2, and finally reducing development time by 10-15% to keep the highlights from blowing out. My understanding is that this is an attempt to overexpose the shadows to get detail if you want it, and under develop to avoid highlight blow out. Have you had any experience with this metering method? If so, what are you experiences?

[@lucius4002]

Hey Matt, Are you metering for b&w the same way as for color negative?

[@Dksupa94]

recommend using auto mode on light meter?

[@portfolio641]

loooooovee these photos

[@cjwillis6965]

Great Vid! This was extremely helpful.

[@aphotoguy_that_collects]

How would you meter for landscapes or urban landscapes

[@marlon.iraheta]

Love it man thanks for the vid !!

[@sandrag.3855]

Great video. Just got myself a light meter so this is very useful. :D Looking forward for the smartphone app video. Hope you cover android apps as well...

[@Noealz]

great stuff matt

[@ShawnBrezny]

Spot on and enlightening 😀

[@mattdayphoto]

Shawn Brezny I see what you did there.