How To Mount A Modern Outboard On A Classic Boston Whaler Montauk 17 - Part 6

[@Frumundaair]

Dude, your channel is way underrated. Your videos are helping a lot more people than you realize. Definitely appreciate what you do 🤙

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Thanks for the great feedback! I appreciate that!

[@Adam12Designs]

Great explanation and video Jose. 2 holes up is the correct height 👍🏼

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Cool, thanks

[@jimbrown7737]

Nice job Jose. Congrats on picking up a 17.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Thanks!

[@timscanlan1466]

I've used the Loctite brand sealant also with no ill effects.. I agree that the dampness on that wood was caused by a seal on the blind hole. I said it before and I'll say it again, I truly enjoy your posts

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Thanks Tim! I really appreciate the positive feedback!

[@PaulFromOrangeCT]

Thanks!

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Welcome!

[@jerrymillican5270]

Excellent, Jose! I have a 1986 Montauk bought in 1988. I recently purchased a 90 Yamaha 2 stroke from a friend to replace the Johnson 90 horsepower. Question will I have to change the bottom holes for the Yamaha? Thank you for your excellent videos and your tips, tricks and your attention to detail!

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

It depends on the year, you should be able to tell by looking at the existing bolts mounting the engine. If the bottom bolts are not visible, then they are probably using the blind holes, you can also check the link to the standard BIA pattern I put a link to in the comments. That will tell you what the distance between the lower holes should be for a modern engine. If you do have the older blind holes, you should fill them in, I have a video on that here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5fFmJqfpNxgZ5Y Good luck!

[@jamesmims7837]

Fantastic videos, you have communication skills! I am also doing a repower with a F70 and have not been able to find out if the F70 has a lifting eye built in, or if I need to purchase one.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

The one I purchased has a lifting eye already.

[@OutsideCleaners]

Good video. Thanks for making this.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

My pleasure!

[@stinkmo2]

Great video. I am about to install a motor on a new transom on my 1969 Eastport. Would you recommend going with a jack plate?

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Hard to say without knowing more or seeing it.

[@crispernator]

Gady mate just wondering how you went with the cavitation plate alignment with your bottom of your hull , i use sikaflex 291 sealant wich is the same as or as close to your 3m 5200 but not as expensive here same cat different colour .

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

There seems to be a consensus in the "Whaler" community that two holes up is the way to go. I checked the anti-cavitation plate relative to the bottom of the hull after mounting the engine and it sits about an inch up from the hull which is ideal.

[@crispernator]

@@ExtremeDIYGuy here some say with a fiberglass boat it should be 25 mm low and on an aluminium it should be level it is all a big mistery i think .

[@jejoko]

Why not just use a jack plate? Drill the jack plate to match the old configuration. (Drill and modify the jack plate, not the transome) Then you can also use a transome plate on the inside. That way you are just depending on bolt washer surface to hold that extra heavy motor. Basically make a transome sandwich with the jack plate and backing plate. Then you also have up and down adjustment to get that prop in the perfect spot. Instead of having to compromise on predetermined hole settings. That is a win-win-win for me.

[@gandl2123]

Hey Jose, Just landed an 82 Boston Whaler Striper-17 for $3500. Problem? I don't know how to start it...could you help me please? I have the key...I can see when you push the key in and turn it the choke would be on....but there is a plastic safety key thingy that is supposed to be on the ignition when it is running so that when you connect it to you self, should you be dislodged from the boat you will turn the ignition off when you depart the boat for whatever reason. I'm trying to crank and she is cranking but not starting. How is this plastic thing attached to the key area so that the boat will run? Tks

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

You should be able to slip it up just behind where the key goes in. Hard to say with out seeing it.

[@gbass7328]

Good but doesn’t look like there is any room to lower the motor if necessary due to the bottom being maxed out. A jack plate would have to be used.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

You are correct, I'm ok with that. My preference is to mount the engines as high as possible without cavitation. The Whaler hulls have proven to work best with the mount 2 holes up, which is where I'm at now. If for what ever reason I needed to drop it more I would definitely use a jack plate. I did on the 13 restoration and that worked out great.

[@gbass7328]

@@ExtremeDIYGuy Correct on that 2 hole up thing. Mine is still locked at the bottom on an ‘85 15’.

[@Rancanfish]

Start your drill in reverse first to reduce the likelihood of chipping the gelcoat.

[@ExtremeDIYGuy]

Thanks for the feedback!