How To :: Necessary Clutch Wallet Sew-Along :: Assembling the Bag and Flap

[@charlotteanderson3727]

Thank you, Sian; you are a talented instructor. (I am an educator for adults and you follow all the great principles of teaching - particularly the 'why' and the 'what could go wrongs' - that is one of 100 traits that make your tutorials so unique.) I watched this series when you first released it and know you have made many other bags, but am now just getting into bag making. I have discovered my domestic machine isn't quite up to the task (despite needle and tension adjustments) to work with faux leather and the multiple layers in bag making. I'm sure you've answered this question before, but I'd like to ask what machine you use. Thanks very much, and thank you again for the time and commitment you put in your videos.

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Thank you 😊 that is a wonderful compliment. I use a Bernina 830

[@terichiarelli6210]

I’ll say it once again...”you are a natural born teacher” great job Sian👍🏻👏👏

[@randidaeger157]

And….your excellent tutorial will guarantee we all make a superior clutch

[@cr8tivecarbaholic]

Thank you. That turn lock is the part that scares me to death. You explained and showed how to install it so well. Thank you for that. A great substitute for thread lock on screws is clear nail polish. 😊

[@MultiCaro2011]

I chuckle every time you say ”ask me how I know” 😂 we have all been there! 😊

[@tplaysnice9469]

Thank you so much for taking the time to do these tutorials, such a lot of work. Very clear and concise. I have enjoyed watching them and learning. x

[@sallydingle321]

Great as usual 👍. Like everyone is saying, so detailed and clear to follow and much appreciated 👍😘

[@theresacastillo1197]

All I can say is WOW! I made my first one and was wondering how to make the turning edge straight, how to add loops for a strap, and I should have made the flap longer to accommodate the bag getting thicker. Wish I would have found you first. THANK YOU!

[@dianaojomo2042]

Thank you for this tutorial. I’ve only watched one and I’m going to watch the rest as I’m encouraged as you’ve done a great job in this. Very clear explanation.

[@reginagregory8081]

what an awesome job you do explaining everything step by step. after watching you, I feel I might actually be able to do this. I look forward to watching more of your videos. Until this week I had never heard of a NCW. I can't wait to get started.

[@annbuck7644]

Just enjoyed another days video and the wallet is getting clearer. I actually feel I can do it now. Thank you

[@dlsgl407]

Ann Buck I

[@deborahthomas1902]

Nice job! I can’t wait to see them finished. I think I can actually do this now and am enjoying your instruction so much. You do such a wonderful job explaining each step!

[@KristianaW]

Thank you for sharing!! Your tutorial so far has been very clear and informative. Hope to see some more tutorials from you 👍😁

[@captron588]

Andrew & Kristiana Watt qq

[@michoumakes]

I reckon Emmaline bags should pay you to rewrite the instructions! So much more beautifully explained than the way it's set out with the pattern AND the stages are more sensibly worked out.

[@Missymate]

michoumakes I absolutely agree, I actually thought exactly the same 👍🏻😘

[@lorrainecherrill3886]

Thank you so much, I am sure my first clutch is much improved by your wonderful video's. Brilliant :)

[@sandyheller5438]

I’m really loving this series for the NCW. Thank You Sooooo Much. 😀

[@tammy5590]

I am just making my for NCW and I so wished I had found your videos first. It would have made life easier. So I have subed and will watch them again. Thanks

[@kkkaneshiro6521]

You are an AWESOME instructor. Thank you very much!

[@myralorraine]

Such a beautiful wallet! I love the birds!

[@charlettemoulton7142]

Your instructions are excellent. Thanks so much!!

[@lthornb1]

I added 1/2 inch length to the flap to avoid a too tight closure. Works perfectly.

[@fattybumpkinsyoung5957]

what easy to follow and great tutorial, thankyou so much

[@SturdyKatherine]

Ah! I sewed my flap together before you got to the instructions for magnetic clasp! (Don't have a turn lock). Oh well, thought you might like to know that it CAN be done after topstitching the flap - just takes determination, nimble fingers, sharp scalpel and Bondaweb :) Note to self: watch the whole video first and don't be so impatient (try breaking habit of a lifetime!!!)

[@mariareina1423]

Thank you so very much - I've just spent the day with you making my first NCW and I love it, I just followed your lead, didn't refer to the instructions at all, not even once. Can I just ask one lil quessie? Would I need to do anything different if I wanted to use a cork fabric? Again a million thanks so enjoyed the day. xxx

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

I'm so glad you enjoyed the series 😊 I've made a few with cork now and didn't change anything, my advice would be to double check that your machine is happy to sew over that many layers before you cut out all the pieces and try and limit the thickness as much as you can (ie don't use cork for the outer and lining of the flap etc) 😊

[@mariareina1423]

@@KittenishBehaviourSian Thank you for getting back to me, well - I'll go ahead and give it a go then. Have a wonderful Christmas, and thanks for all of the fun stuff. hugs. xxx

[@gissellerivera7495]

4:47 if you cut to much you will have to cut a new flap and you will curse 😂‼ story of my life HAHAHA

[@racheldeasey7584]

Great instructions thank you Sian

[@charlotteanderson3727]

By the way, I meant to mention just a fun note, the tiny screws you reference with your lock are called 'set' screws (same idea as with bathroom hardware, door knobs, etc.).

[@apekepoo]

Hi.... Watching this tutorial has been such a great lesson. Thank you for this. I was wondering if on the final step where you add the extra piece of firm interfacing, after having turned and ironed flat the outer part of wallet, can you substitute fusible fleece instead of the interfacing to give it a bit of cushion? Or would that bulk it up too much? Thank you for great tutorials!!

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

So glad you have enjoyed the series 😊 It could definitely be worth a try, you just want to make sure to trim it so that it's out of the seam allowance (like I do with the firm interfacing) let me know how you get on. 😊

[@apekepoo]

@@KittenishBehaviourSian Will do... Thank you! ;)

[@loveittoday]

Watching the series through before jumping in and wondered about the firm interfacing pieces you’re adding in? It looks fusible and the one I have here in the US is called Peltex (I think) and is fusible. Why aren’t you fusing these pieces prior to top stitching? Thank so much for these brilliant tutorials! 😊

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Glad you're enjoying them. I don't fuse those pieces because of the way I install them, they can be slightly different sizes for each bag and I want to make sure that they fit perfectly, it's why I cut them out when I did instead of at the start 😊 hope that helps

[@lthornb1]

I like this method...just wondering about trimming the firm stabilizer along the straight edge to reduce bulk in the seam.

[@carolewilliams3572]

Hi Sian I have just started my first NCW and thank goodness for your tutorials, !!! However I am finding it hard sewing through the bulky bits where the zipper pockets are attached to the outer zipper pockets. I recently had a new machine ( last week) as my previous machine would not sew through bulky fabrics, and I couldn’t alter the pressure on the foot. Do you use a walking foot when you do your NCW s ?

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

I have a built in walking foot that I use all the time. A few people have recommended whacking the thick bits with a hammer to smoosh it down a little more if your machine is struggling. Hope that helps 😊

[@carolewilliams3572]

Thank you Sian , will try that .

[@MirandaJ223]

Hi Sian, have loved these videos. When you use the extra stiff interfacing, is it a sew in? Cheers

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Hey 😊 It's iron on but it doesn't stick very well so I never actually iron it in to place.

[@MirandaJ223]

@@KittenishBehaviourSian Thank you! Good to know - I only have an iron on and I wondered if I could use it. :) Much appreciated.

[@rahinatuabdullahi]

Hi!i love all you videos i have the pattern morethan 3 monthsi didnt try it yet.i want try soon because you explain really well.yPlease what type of glue you used in your flap?thank you

[@randidaeger157]

Love your fabric choices. Are these cotton or what?

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

They are cotton and cotton canvas :)

[@chrisburks5329]

Hello. If I do a shoulder strap instead of a wristlet do I put the d-rings in the same spot. Chris. Thanks

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Hi Chris. Up until now that has been what I've done but Emmaline bags have just released this new hardware so you can add strap connectors to the sides of the purse. emmalinebags.com/collections/bag-hardware/products/strap-clip-2-pack

[@lthornb1]

Well....I'm jumping in to my first NCW today.....wish me luck...

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Oooooh good luck! Let me know how you get on 😊

[@lthornb1]

Did you trim the heavy stablizzer out of the seam allowance for the flap? Where it attaches to the body.

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

I didn't as my machine doesn't mind sewing over that, but it's a good idea to do it 😊

[@SerenaKaye]

💚🖤

[@ssarge2]

I have a couple of questions. in the beginning of the video 'assembling the bag and flap' you mention that you will trim down the peltex that you've inserted into the flap. I never did see you do that? when using the directional fabric - I noticed that on the 'bird' fabric - you sewed the seam shut, but on the pink side - you left an opening in the middle. I'm guessing you sewed the bird side closed once you had cut 2 pieces - for the purpose of getting the directional fabric in the right spot? so if you're not using the directional fabric on either piece - would you advise me to leave one side intact but still make one side 2 pieces for the purpose of turning (leaving the opening in the middle? making sure they match in size. The stiff interfacing (peltex) that you inserted into the bag doesn't go all the way into the bag? or is there a cutout near where the turn lock is installed? One thing I did on one of the few bags (I've made 3 but still learning)I made was to sew an outside pocket on the back. it comes it very handy when I just need to put a card or a dollar in quickly.......... I had added it to cover up a mistake I made by marking on the wrong side with a non-erasable marker. (oops) but I find I use that little pocket all the time......... Your videos are the best I've seen on the NCW - thank you for taking the time to do them.

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

If you watch from 3.11 you'll see that I cut within the line I've traced and then at 3.17 I show you the piece that I tried off of the firm interfacing to make it fit inside the flap 😊 I did indeed sew the bird fabric closed the whole way along (you can see this in the corresponding video) I leave the lining opening so you can turn you bag outer through there. If you aren't using a directional fabric cut the outer bag body in one piece (this is mentioned in the first video) Not sure I follow this point? The nearly square piece of firm Interfacing that I put in to the body of the bag goes all the way in (you may need to wrestle with it a bit though) you can see this at 24.06 I love the idea of an outside pocket on the bag of the bag and keep meaning to add this to the next one I make but I forget! When I do do it I'll add another video to this play list but its a great idea 😊 So glad you've enjoyed the videos and I hope these answers help 😊

[@ssarge2]

I guess I need to pay better attention. thanks for getting back to me. and yes - you'd probably really like that little back pocket. I often keep my Starbucks card in that for quick access when I really need coffee. LOL As for the peltex on the inside of the main body? I guess I forgot the turn lock is only sewn on one side. Do you find the bulk of that hard to sew with your machine? not sure which machine you have. I just purchased a Brother PQ 1500SL straight stitch machine but haven't had a chance to use it on a wallet yet. just learning how it all works.

[@michellepage6043]

Just a question Sian, the d rings should be on the inside of the bag correct ?

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

yes they should be on the inside of the flap

[@trudileach8821]

Does the centre seam of the main body of the bag on directional fabric not cause a lot of bulk then the bag flaps are folded round the zipped pouches??

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Trudi Leach I don’t think so as the centre seam never gets near the pinches you need to make to put the zipper pouches in 😊 hope that helps

[@lthornb1]

Do you trim the firm stabilizer along the straight edge of the flap? Seems that there would be a lot of bulk in the seam with the D rings. I don't see it in the video.

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

lthornb1 I don’t trim it out of the seam allowance as my machine sees it no problem. If your machine is not so fond of all the layers you can definitely trim out the seam allowances to help reduce the bulk 😊

[@lthornb1]

Thank you!!! Love your videos, so appreciate them. Do you have videos on using a serger to sew knits? I've had a really expensive serger for over 10 years and have never really used it.....its a Husqvarna Viking .....I want to start sewing more knits....so I need to learn this machine......

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

lthornb1 ive just done a sewalong for a knit dress using my serger. That might be worth checking out 😊

[@kimberlyrussi2913]

so the stiff interfacing you have put thru the lining slot is an extra step you do, right?

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

It is yes, they do recommend that you follow the pattern instructions for the first one to see what your machine will handle thickness wise but I found that the resulting bag was quite floppy so I added the extra interfacing 😊

[@kimberlyrussi2913]

Thank you! Your instructions, videos are fabulous! Very Clear!!! Love your fabrics as well!

[@lindastewart2099]

What size rivet and rivet die do you use for the purse. Thank you

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

I use 7mm rivets. I bought the press with that die set and the punch came with it 😊

[@pamalagilbert3198]

do you think if I tried to make one of these I can do it with batting

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Honestly I don't know as I've never tried it, you could give it a go. You'll definitely want some interfacing in there as well I would think. Let me know how you get one 😊

[@pamalagilbert3198]

thank you for replying I'm going to try that

[@fayeehlis9749]

What brand of interfacing and # are you using on the flap and body insert? It has a roll....is it I peltex?

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

It's a generic one I got from the local fabric store, it had no brand info. The pattern recommends Peltex or similar 😊

[@fayeehlis9749]

What brand of scissors are you using to make the holes for the clasp

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

They are Fiskars 😊

[@JollyRose143]

What is the white paper that you put in the flap cover?

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

It's a very stiff interfacing 😊

[@gwennadoty7374]

you didn't use peltex - what was the stabilizer you used in the flap?

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

G wenna Doty a non branded one I got from my local shop. Sorry that’s not more specific.

[@lthornb1]

Are you on Craftsy? You would do very well on there.....You are an excellent teacher!

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

Thank you 😊 I'm an avid crafty user for sure 😉

[@hannanugent6716]

What the firm interfacing you used x

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

It's an unbranded one from my local fabric shop.

[@dianaojomo2042]

May I ask which stiffening you used for the flap please.

[@KittenishBehaviourSian]

It's a generic one that I got from my local fabric shop. It's very thick and feels almost like cardboard. I believe Peltex is a brand name that make that sort 😊

[@dannyidlerocks]

🐝

[@andreeclinger7659]

💥

[@lilolmecj]

Assuming the screws are magnetic, you can buy a magnetic work pad, like people who work on cell phones and such use.

[@stacikspencer]

Can I ask what you would charge someone if you were selling this?