How to not damage your FEP resin 3d printing, with a tutorial on how I clean my vat

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

Tip for using microfiber towels - remove the tags. Took me a while to figure that out when detailing my car. The microfiber material itself is nice and soft, but the tag can often cause scratches/swirls.

[@johnmarcgreen]

Again, extremely helpful for resin printing noobs like me. Just got my first printer, an Elegoo Saturn 2. Planning to watch all your videos before I even get it out of the box!

[@DMNKLR_official]

I just recently received my first printer (Mono 4k), as a birthday gift, and on the first night I managed to get resin all over half of the table, because I used one of those stupid filters (inside of a funnel, of course) that came with it. No matter how I'd fold it, the stupid thing still refused to stay in a usable form, and right aft I began to pour from the vat, the piece of junk snapped back to it's original shape and the resin went everywhere except for into the filter. The next day I ordered a set of metal ones (dirt cheap, and come in a 3 pack with silicone funnels), from Amazon, and it's made pouring resin back into the bottle a ton easier. I'm getting a second set, too, for paints, as that's actually what they're made for anyway. Btw, I just want to also say thanks for all that you do, because you've been a great resource for all of us. Hopefully soon I can also finally become a Patron.

[@jpjokela1]

Firstly, you forgot to mention one of the biggest reasons for failed FEPs: Tightening too much during installation (sure, you've mentioned it in your other videos, but a good reminder here. Secondly, I somewhat disagree with plastic spatulas. Sure, metal ones are "better", but I like it that I can't really damage the print platform with them - something definitely possible with metal ones. Those plastic ones with kind of "round" end aren't very good, you can get prints off if the raft edge isn't 90 degrees, but I prefer those, that have sharp-pish edge at 45 degrees or so. And I also use them for failed print removal. BUT very carefully, not touching the film. I press the print gently from below, and once one edge pops up, I gently slide the scraper below it, gently pulling up - I just find that easier than using gloved hand (obviously won't work too well with very small pieces)

[@IPrint3dMinis]

I use a small plastic spatula to clean my vats for months, no scratches or damage, but I use a silicone spatula for stuck parts or bits floating if I need to clean it. FEP failures are usually from user error, and understandably so as resin printing is a skill you need to learn. A lot of folks just jump in. I mean I did, but I am fairly technical and thanks to the resources out there I figured out my initial failures and moved on. Good video none-the-less though. OH and also, I use shop towels that have very little texture on the vats to clean them and no worries so far. I will get some microfiber towels though as they seem to work better when I used them in the past. I am just being cheap and I kind of messed up the ones I had.

[@Laerun]

THis is great informamtion! Theres way too many folks out there who think it's just fine to use rough materials on the FEP.

[@ilikenothingtoo]

Scotts blue paper shop towels is what I use to clean the fep and a #2 palette knife for removing prints. I have a whole set but the #2 is the most useful.

[@hhee0]

Second recommendation... kimwipes instead of paper towels. they're lint free and designed for delicate lab cleaning tasks

[@SpottedPainter]

Much thanks for the shout out!

[@hhee0]

My recommendation rather than a metal scraper or the flimsy scraper is to use Nylon Chisel, they are sharp, hard, and non-marring

[@frankwire4348]

Thank you for this. I bought a elegoo mars a long time ago and pretty quickly screwed up my FEP. I got failed prints that stuck to the FEP and could not get it off. I also scratched the heck out of the FEP trying to clean it causing it to become VERY cloudy very quickly I basically did everything wrong you could. The Silicon Squeegee was EXACTLY what I needed.

[@ajlbeer]

Most build plates are soft aluminum too. Using the metal scraper can actually leave a curled shard of aluminum sticking out of the build plate. Could be good to give it a once over, and if you feel a snag, sand it lightly with some fine sandpaper. Or just get a whambam :D

[@lostsanityreturned]

Best option is to just use a nylon wall scraper. It will never damage the built plate, can be sharpened and the flex means it just pops models off without any effort.

[@feral7094]

Thanks for the tip on silicone squeegees, seems awesome. My first resin printer mono 4k gets here in a week and your video was super helpful

[@Jake0997]

A decently sized wash and cure can fit your vat and cleans your vat and fep really well, such as the creality one. I do it and it cleans so much better than with paper towels and microfiber clothes without any damage. Mine i put in, clean one side, and flip it over, also helpful for if you got resin on the underside somehow so you dont have to scrape a print screen

[@danzo5521]

Really valuable info and great hands on experience

[@korbyynbear5592]

Good stuff as always, pretty similar to my own. Few things - as previously commented, ditch the paper towels for shop towels. They are softer and stronger than paper, and nearly as affordable. Also (thanks to @3dprintfarm) lose the IPA, use Sprayway Glass Cleaner - cheaper, easier to use and find, and smells nice 😜 Last, depending on the slope of your build plate, don't forget the top - nasties can hide there too... I hit the whole build plate, handle too in case of contamination, with Sprayway, wipe with shop towel and hang back in printer to dry

[@vizionct1]

Great tutorial on cleaning. I follow same method except I like to pour in bit of alcohol onto fep then lightly use soft synthetic brush to get those edges super clean then wipe w squegee. Last step is drop of ptfe which I found helps keep builds from sticking or popping. Been working great for me since.

[@padenwade]

This hobby is a true rabbit hole of wtf did I do wrong. I start with Anycubic teaching me to install my fep, which lead me to Nerdtronic talking about how to prevent failed prints to Uncle Jesse and comparing his supports to 3DPrintPro and now my real journey begins. To actually figure out wtf I'm doing lol. Thanks.

[@r0mad88]

lol I’ve started with Uncle Jesse to some Nerdtronic and then Jesse suggestion about supports appeared in my feed, and I haven’t even printed a thing yet. Waiting to unbox my printer as its a self birthday/christmas present, 1 month down 5 more months to go.

[@Tonys-Hobby-Room]

Credit to you sir. Watched you levelling video and it has helped. You mentioned “shake hour resin” etc etc. my proton x mono came very close to hitting the wall. Your talk gave me some pointers that looks like i may have a successful print today (as i paid £29 for the file) you can understand the frustration. Have used some “silicon release spray” on the fep and changed my exposure times and “pleased to hear” that release sound as the build plate lifts.

[@Sprangle1]

Well sir, in four days of owning a resin printer, I believe that I have made every mistake in the book, except perhaps getting chemical burned. It is videos like this that will help me not mess up my new nFEP and flexible/ magnetic build plate which are both on the way.

[@aaronhayes8873]

I use those blue shop towels. Rain x will also remove light cloudiness.

[@TravisT1200]

Hey. Just want to say thank you for the videos. Very helpful and hope you keep making more. I enjoy watching

[@joespadaro361]

Replacing my Sonic Mega LCD today... I believe my failure was a small part (a chitubox hole) on a small raft fell of the build plate. What I learned from that is... I will sand my build plate regularly & gang up small parts & Chitubox holes on bigger rafts... Also I will empty the vat after any failed print for cleaning & inspection... Great video 3DPP lots of experience I can tell.

[@jakesells2379]

The blue Scott Shop Towels won't scratch the FEP.

[@jonathanpepper9743]

That's what I use. Much better than paper towel, and less expensive than kimwipes or microfiber cloth.

[@chucklamb3496]

I use the Wham-Bam flex plate and don’t use scrapers.

[@DRU_Hards]

THIS! I dont think i would print as much as I do without one Trying to scrape off a print is so tedious and annoying compared the the flex plate. 10 seconds to remove the plate from the magnetic base, remove the print, and reattach so I can start the next print.

[@aaronbono4688]

I love the suggestion of using the silicon squeegee. I will have to do that. I also keep a laboratory wash bottle of IPA handy and use that to soak down my paper towels which I used to wipe down the build plate and I use it to put a little bit of IPA in the vat, it's a lot easier than measuring out a cap full.

[@SpottedPainter]

Those wash bottles are super handy to have around ! I use them for air brush cleaning as well.

[@aaronbono4688]

@@SpottedPainter Yes I also use them when I'm painting miniatures.

[@jrdchemist]

Good stuff, thank you! I have used that little plastic scraper, and my original FEP sure shows signs of it. Going to throw it out right now.

[@FrancoisMathieu]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I learn so much from your videos. Keep up the good work.

[@netnoob77]

Thank you for all your videos. They have been really helpful to a beginner like me. Not sure if you mentioned it in one of your other videos.. what are your thoughts on using lube on the FEP (e.g. PTFE lubricant, Rain X, etc)?

[@Zeno_Evil]

Do you throw out the microfiber towels after a single use? Or how do you clean them (ie: soak in IPA, ....)?

[@J0SHUAKANE]

I use them until they are saturated with resin then throw them out. I get a lot more than 1 use.

[@fullmetajacket2090]

i use IPA wipes (70%) to do most of the cleaning then a microfiber to get it totally clean, i have a microfiber that still cleans well thats been used 20+ times

[@formysindesigns]

Absolutely loved your videos. Really has helped save my printer from the bin!

[@markferrick10]

Great tip, thank you. Just purchased the silicon squeegee. What metal scraper do you use. All I have is the yellow/black Elegoo provided one.

[@allstatejake]

I use a flex plate so I don’t have to worry about scraping anything ever. Do you not like flex plates?

[@alastair9551]

Great tips man. Thanks for all your work

[@bigbmessiah]

My plastic scraper that came with the Mighty 4K is the only thing ive used in the last 9 months of printing....it works flawlessly as my prints have enough adhesion to stay stuck to the bed, but the plastic scraper needs some pressure initially but then just slides right under the bottom layers. Maybe i got the bed just right, i don't know but I have only leveled the bed 2 times in 9 months ( second one was only because I put a screen protector on) but i find no need for the metal scrapers at all. Have only had 1 print ever not stick to bed, and that was on first day before i got the setting right.

[@Atom_Alchemist]

What about the use of the clean vat feature? Sure it costs a smidge of resin, but it tends to make teh build/exposure area perfect.

[@chops893]

Good to know I more or less do the same routine, although I give my build plate a good wash and scrub after every print. I would still suggest one of those vat holders if for no other reason they can hold the funnel in place so you never have to worry about it (I use the MakerMatrix version). Also I use the plastic spatula 100% of the time to remove my prints; takes a bit more effort sure, but I don't want to scratch the build plate if I can help it (I just want to keep things as new as possible).

[@3dprintingpro212]

Scratching it up actually helps adhesion so no worries!

[@aaronhayes8873]

I use a hobby razor knife to break a corner free then finish with the plastic scraper

[@Dwight.Schrute69]

Hi Greg! Do you lube your nFEP with PTFE lube? I know a lot of people do it with a regular FEP, but wasn't sure if that was needed with nFEP.

[@jonathanpepper9743]

I do - haven't really noticed a difference though. I haven't had any problems though, so I'd so go ahead.

[@NeoIsrafil]

Ooh! I have ptfe lube... wonder if that'll help keep it from sticking..

[@AFatalPapercut]

tbh FEP by it's very nature is non stick...it's teflon. a properly calibrated printer should never need lube.

[@KidNomura]

Opinion on rainX as a substitute?

[@217RockStar217]

Small scrapers and spatulas can be found at your local dollar tree store, I use them for stirring and scraping vat/fep Very nice $

[@ippaku]

Hello I enjoy this video thank you very much. I wanted to ask what do you do with the microfiber after you use it do you just curate and then throw it away do you cure it and wash it or is it just a loss and you cure it and toss it

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

You are an awesome resource.

[@g2rockets]

Hi Greg, Can you post the heavy spatula/scraper you use to remove prints? Thanks

[@Bannerninja]

ok using a squeegee is SUCH an obvious choice that it totally escaped me! 😂 This is an excellent guide - good points on safety too 👍

[@tmenet]

3DPrintingPro I'm surprised you didn't mention the clean function built into some printers for removing the failed print. Putting some old supports on the FEP before exposing the bottom provides a touch free way of peeling off your failed print.

[@SpottedPainter]

I'm fairly certain he's too paranoid for that lol 🤣

[@Archon129]

I use that function all the time, but never thought of using old supports to make it easier to remove...awesome tip, thanks!

[@Trishlicious]

I clean the build plate completely before placing it back on the printer or I keep the build plate in a clean plastic bag stored away from everything; so far no issues with a broken FEP. Most FEPs just get cloudy and deformed before replacing them. The scraper I use is a printed one, used mainly just to feel for debris and stirring; if I feel/think there is anything left in the vat I strain the resin into my storage container before printing again. I think good habits and printing routines should lower the risk of a critical failure but never can eliminate a brain fart completely.

[@Mopardudes]

Thank you for the information sir I was just wondering where you ordered the lulubricant from is all and to tell you that I love your videos and I've learned a lot from you to sir

[@sabinpantis4149]

Can I use silicone spatula from the kitchen?

[@TheRagnartheBold]

I like the plastic razor blades most to remove my prints. I have the anycubic photon s buildplate, made out of aluminium. Normal scrapers and metal razor blade have scratched the build plate severely.

[@3dprintingpro212]

Scratched build plate is fine :)

[@aaronbono4688]

Damn, that's what I've been doing wrong all along. My gloves don't match my shirt.

[@SpottedPainter]

It's a critical step !

[@3dprintingpro212]

Critical error!!! I can't stress this enough!

[@spacewolf223]

My god i wish i could show you how bad my fep is thank you for teaching me i will do better

[@jolandidupreez7468]

Very helpful Thank you

[@TheBeardedUber]

I'm very new to resin printing. I got about 9 hours into a 15 hour print (i was in bed) and when I got up, the was a Crisp line where the print was supposed to be. I'm not really sure how to explain it, but I can put a picture on a discord I have if its allowed to put that link on here

[@3dprintingpro212]

come post it in Facebook if you can in 3dresing printing with 3dprintingpro and I can try and help :)

[@dipendrachettri2178]

Can i use cellulose sponge instead of the paper towels to clean the corners of the vat, will it damage the fep?

[@ApocalypZero]

I don't know if id call suction force but I had a rectangular hole cut out of my fep with model intact on the build plate the resin adhered so hard with my cone's of calibration that it just took a square chunk out. Massive leak im afraid to print anymore

[@arbitScaleModels]

All your points are good. But the main way my FEP gets damaged is when the build plate is lifting the cured layers off.

[@joshyjosh00]

What do you do with your microfiber cloths ? Can you wash em or do they have to be disposed?

[@3dprintingpro212]

Once there are no "clean spots" left on it I throw it in my curing chamber, cure all the resin to be sure, then throw it out

[@donkahler2028]

were do you get your microfiber cloths, and what kind do you use?

[@donmezzma]

Hey man, could you help me with something, I’m wondering about dust under the fep & just how damaging it can be ? It’s seems impossible to get every dust particle out. My sonic mini I never worried about it, but now it seem with sonic mighty just one dust particle is creating holes in fep ?

[@vaughanza]

Thanks for the great video, get yourself some microfibre wipes ( Fiber Optic wipes ) these will not scratch your FEP. They work well and are cheap.

[@zTribalstylerz]

Great thorough video! You speak clearly and thoughtfully. And obviously you know your s#$&! Thanks man

[@Monstah7]

Gotta ask, what is an NFEP?.. i'ma noob, and haven't heard about nfep's before..

[@seriousCADninja]

Man why do i get white imprint of the parts contours to my FEP? And after a dew prints the parts start to fail at those areas where the white marks have started to appear...? Do you get the same problem?

[@terrys3496]

Old video but I'll mention it anyway. Instead of having to pour out all your resin from the vat, use a syringe. That way you avoid making a mess while aiming for the strainer and having to hold it with your hand while trying to pour vat, you'll be able to control the pour much easier. Just know that resin will leak out the tip of syringe when holding it face down, so tip it up carefully and don't fill syringe all the way or when you tip it up it will leak down the outside and onto your hand or even what ever surface your working around. Then you can clean the rest with your towel. Clean syringe inside and out with what ever cleaning solution you use on your vat. Cap the tip so it doesn't pour out then pour solution in from base after taking plunger handle out, put handle back in, I like to shake it up a bit. Then you can just squeeze it back into solution bottle until you need to change it out for cleaner solution. Then pull plunger back out wash out with water and let it sit out to dry. Wahla! I know it seems like a lot of extra work but it's really not.

[@lishathorne]

I have trouble with the fep loosening during printing. After one print I need to re tune the fep or it fails the next print. Its really annoying is that a bad sheet of fep or something else possibly? Using Mars pro 2

[@biomcanx1]

I use plastic razor blades to remove my parts from the build plate. Easily removes parts and no chance of damaging the build plate.

[@tomusannonymous]

will you be reviewing the new elegoo mars 3?

[@3dprintingpro212]

Already did last week if you check my channel :)

[@jasonzao777]

you are brillant give us newbes more

[@teyrasiridae4704]

What's your opinion on tank clean features which just expose a thin layer across the entire screen? That's worked really well for me to keep my vat clean without too much effort.

[@SholtoAtIncunabulum]

This is the only way I clean my vat now. The only things that touch my FEP are resin and the occasional soft silicone spatula for stirring

[@rvashko]

Is SprayWay cleaner OK to use on the FEP instead of IPA?

[@gmoney9992]

I have dried resin in the vat on the side that I can't get out (kinda of a "L" shape about 3 or 4 mm wide). I left it in the sun and it cured but it's not peeling off. Any tips? Thanks!

[@Riverboat374]

The thing that freaks me out is what if one tiny little support breaks off in the resin and I don't see it. Could even break the glass.

[@Stagbot_Racing]

I've had Epax's NFEP on my 4k mini for about 6-7 months and noticed that it flexes a lot more than I remember. Do you ever replace them due to them getting loose?

[@proximityfpv1722]

Thanks for the vid. I've been using paper towels. Looks like it's time to install the Nfep I got when I bought the printer. :) + now I won't destroy it in two weeks. Had to buy more stuff though ... lol

[@alnath01]

I first tried my printer today, and after 1 successful test + 1 failed one, I cleaned the vat, and dried it with ..... paper towel ! First time I hear that it can ruin the fep ... and I've watched a lot of videos, tutorials etc... :-(

[@charlesforbin6937]

Uncle Jessy recently suggested LIQUID FEP rubbed on the resin nfep side.....YOUR THOIGHTS?

[@3dprintingpro212]

Have not tested yet, honestly never had any issues with things sticking to NFEP on any printer I ever tested... :)

[@chucklamb3496]

Do you recommend any product on the fep to minimize suction force?

[@3dprintingpro212]

Honestly never tested anything yet because with all the printers I've used I've never had an issue. Guess I should just run some tests anyway to see what's what... :)

[@chucklamb3496]

@@3dprintingpro212 I tried re-leveling the z axis and don’t have that problem now.

[@Kezat]

​@@3dprintingpro212 Would love to see this test. I'm torn if PTFE application makes an actual measurable difference or its just a idea that gets passed around. I have yet to find a apples to apples comparison without or without PTFE.

[@sierralarars]

You've now got me hecka paranoid about stabbing FEP now, I'm about to buy a printer tomorrow and you pop up saying don't use the tools that come with the machine lmao! I thought I had everything in my basket. Time to add a vinyl scraper to the list! Thanks you the tips, I shall take them on board. You wouldn't happen to have any advice on screen protectors would you? I'm getting too much conflicting advice and I don't know what is up or down anymore. Its a Saturn I'm going to buy and I understand they don't come with a protector. Would you recommend I got one too just to be safe? I'm seeing others say it will just spoil prints and I shouldn't spoil the sanctity of the LCD.

[@allanlarsen3261]

From my personal experience, you can use the plastic scraper with the FEP, IF you are careful, just lightly glide the scraper over the FEP, and do not use the scraper for getting prints of the build place (to not damage the edge of the scraper). I have done this plenty of times, and never experiences an issue with it. Remember that many of these youtubers are perfectionists. They try to give you the best advice they can, to redice risk to a minimum and getting that last 5% out of the printer. Most people can live just fine without those last 5%. I completely agree with 3DPrintingPro's advice on the scraper. Silicone is better for the job and it will help reducing the risk to the FEP. However, if you can 'settle' with a little less than perfection, then the plastic scraper can do the job. You just need to be extra careful (and inspect that scraper edge before you use it) :-)

[@J0SHUAKANE]

You are way over-zealous. I have been using the plastic scraper on the FEP since the original mars came out with zero issues. & I would never use metal to remove prints from the bed like he suggests. Just put the print bed in the freezer for a minute & even a solid resin block will pop right off with the plastic scraper. I think he just gives directions for clumsy brutes🤷‍♂️

[@sierralarars]

@@J0SHUAKANE are you sure putting uncured resin in the freezer is safe?! o.o that is actually terrifying haha! I’m going to not take that advice I’m afraid. I’m not sure how I’m overzealous though so I’ll need you to clarify? Is it about the screen protector?

[@J0SHUAKANE]

@@sierralarars you shouldnt be worried about stabbing your fep. Why would it be unsafe? I wouldnt recommend using liquid resin as an ice cream topping. Or are you imagining deadly fumes coming off, coating everything you eat?

[@sierralarars]

@@J0SHUAKANE it’s not just the gas, it’s the whole thing accidentally dripped on food packaging is way too high for me to consider that. Cross contamination is inevitable. Mixing food and uncured resin of any kind is just asking for an accident or someone ingesting resin. My mother has a compromised immune system and I’m fully unwilling to risk her health and others in the household to do that. Never mix food and chemicals. Just no. If I was having issues with getting things off the build plate with a scraper I would just make an investment in a flexplate. I’d never leap to putting materials in a toxic state in my freeze! I'm half wondering if you are just trolling? I really hope you don’t actually put it in your freezer and are just pulling my leg.

[@LordDeadSpider]

Doh…. Been using paper towel to wipe both sides of my fep 😞

[@mmik9683]

Instead of wadding up your paper towel, fold it a few times and use the corner.

[@paulbuck8876]

Why don't you clean the vat in a Washing and Curing Machine?

[@KurtisJoseph]

Oh my gosh I am so paranoid... This is way different than FDM. Okay... you know what paranoid is good. It means I am not jumping into this willy nilly. I have respect for things to go wrong. I am being careful. Still... if my Azrael Batman armor were done, it would take less courage to put on the PLA suit and go fight crime.

[@Andonchoto]

i stopped using alcohol, just warm water does the trick boss

[@MrBizteck]

Havent cleaned my vat in over a year now.... gone though several bottles...colours ..... perhaps when the screen dies I'll do it

[@MrGekken]

Thx for video. Tip from my experience: for VAT cleaning use atomizer with IPA. For better coverage and also IPA is applied with better force which already remove some resin during IPA application. And yeah throw away this plastic scraper!

[@unmer3306]

2 things i have learned after having my printer for 3 days and ruining my FEP. ABSOLUTELY throw that piece of ass scraper it comes with away. And if you don't have kitchen roll or paper towels, ABSOLUTELY don't use toilet paper....

[@daisylin7601]

Good work,could you leave the way of contact,I have a collaboration to talk with you

[@619Slipk]

Someone might watch this video and don't learn anything about the FEP, but he/she will for sure learn to use the damn gloves lol Every 30-ish seconds you mention you'll be using gloves if it's not a mere simulation XD

[@mcride1]

using paper towrl without any problems with IPA... FEP its chemical resistance protected film so it will not get scratch wit paper towel and IPA

[@macewen1]

The plastic thing isn't meant to be used to get prints off the build plate. It's to get failed prints off of your FEP.

[@MrGekken]

Do not touch FEP with this plastic scraper, never :)

[@DisgruntledPigumon]

Quick tip: Silicon is a metal that’s used in micro-chips. Think “Silicon Valley”. SiliCONE is a rubbery type of plastic used for cooking utensils, tools, and mold making, among many other things.

[@raginggamer2109]

Longest how to clean resin out of vat lol.

[@pcarmy4351]

camera is too far