How to Paint Torallion Leafstar (the Elf) | Painting Advanced Heroquest | Easy Painting Guide

[@moseth7606]

Ooooooo I cam feel a deadly dungeon crawl a-calling!!! 😆👍 excellent job good sir!! Very inspiring for me to get my own done

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I want to get enough painted up for another Advanced Heroquest playthrough.

[@Geerdie]

Loved the look, that green realy pops.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks. You can't beat a classic green elf.

[@cjanquart]

I'm thinking your inspiration for white/color banded bows came from Mike McVey's WFB Wood Elves. I especially remember the conversions he did with the Wardancers.

[@johnmiddleton4291]

Indeed. I think those were supposed to be elite units (in 3rd ed rules) and the white was to balance against the green swords melee units had. I can't remember if they had blue accents on them though. There was a whole article about them in a White Dwarf at some point.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Those were almost certainly my inspiration. The first elves I painted up were the 10 from the Fantasy Regiments box, which McVey had in his army. And I remember putting double blue bands on my champion and cutting the bow off one to replace with a cocktail stick banner for the banner bearer. Both things that it looks like McVey did. Looks like he used red on those, but blue on others, so I probably just picked the one that was easier to paint.

[@johnmiddleton4291]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Ha. Picked white because it was easier to paint. Those plastic Fantasy Regiment troops were awesome. GW could re-issue that box and it would sell well. I love the Skaven in there. And the Goblins. And the Dwarves. Well, there isn't a bad one in the bunch, is there.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Ha. No, I mean I picked blue bands instead of red to be easier. That Fantasy Regiment box was amazing. They stuck the same sprues in the Advanced Heroquest painting set as well, didn't they? The goblin archers were lovely. I would like some of those for Advanced Heroquest now.

[@johnmiddleton4291]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring I think so. Unfortunately, that box is a real pain to search for because the name is so generic. You will get loads of the 5th and 6th ed regiment boxes. You can maybe try plastic 3rd edition goblins or Skaven and get some hits. It's way cheaper to find individuals or small lots than the box. Well, cheaper unless you actually want all of them. The plastic orcs would work well for AHQ too. They are very similar to the Heroqyuest ones.

[@TheFoxx82]

Really liked the job on the bow

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks. I believe I adapted that from an old painting guide for horns. Horns is the thing I use it for the most.

[@scriptulike]

Superb!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thank you.

[@HivisoftheScale]

Ooh! Zandri Dust?! I love that color, I use it for a faction in Mech Warrior known as Highlander. (Or when I want to use the color scheme of green and military brown) 😁

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I like Zandri Dust a lot.

[@HivisoftheScale]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring its a great color 😁

[@johnmiddleton4291]

I really like the sharp and angular elf face style of early GW elves. It looks especially sinister on the Dark Elves. I think the white with blue accents was High Elf bows in 3-5th ed, sometimes blue and silver. Wood Elves were usually red (of course) orange, yellow, or bright green. Sort of went against the whole "We're in drab and dusky cloaks/tunics hiding in the underbrush." sort of thing they had going on. I think a few 3rd ed wood elves had white bows to offset units that had green swords. The looked pretty weird.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

They made the elves look a bit other-worldly, which is good. Thinking about it, I suspect the McVey spread in White Dwarf was my inspiration for elves. I only ever had small number of them, because I used them as an ally contingent in a dwarf army.

[@Mailed-Knight]

Great vid.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thank you.

[@riot_of_flowers725]

I really love the Seraphim Sepia shade over gold. It really gives golds like Balthasar, and Retributor Armour a really deep rich effect, that Agrax and Nuln Oil cant do. Plus dry brushing a lighter gold over it takes it even further. I think I learned the Seraphim Sepia thing from you actually. Haha. Did you ever attempt, or start painting the minis for the Dungeons and Dragons Fantasy Adventure Board game? I just recently started on the heroes, having fully painted Lidda and Jozan, and was really happy with how they came out, especially Jozan. The minis being so chonky make them pretty easy to paint.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Balthasar Gold and Seraphim Sepia always looks good. Makes any golds and coppers very easy. I haven’t painted any of my Fantasy Adventure minis yet. They are pretty low down the list at the moment, to be fair. They are super chonky!

[@NikoTeaJay]

Having the eyes look uniformly left or right is good. In my experience another workable option is to paint the pupils centre-ish but closer to the nose. It's less of a stare and more smartly looking front-viewing style. But especially if the head is a bit turned, having the eyes look towards a side add fun dynamism to the piece. Good looking wood elf.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I think as long as you can keep the pupils slightly off centre, and without white showing all around them, then they shouldn't look too much like they are staring. Then you just have to make sure your hero doesn't end up cross-eyed!

[@johnmiddleton4291]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring I sort of prefer having them look in different directions. That way every character looks like a Mel Brooks film.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

It's pronounced Fronkenstein!

[@jeanfoutre3620]

Silly rules question for heroquest... In Frozen Horror on the solo quest... What stops you from waiting with your barbarian in front of a door, (once you have a crossbow) and just waiting for a good movement roll before (finally) deciding to (1)open that door, (2)shoot the crossbow into the room onto monsters that are in that room, then (3)move back 12 squares in order to kite whatever is in there...? (the app will make them run after you, even down a looong corridor... they'll gladly run after a barbarian with a crossbow which is 20 squares away who is singing "you will never catch this" on the same tune Borat uses when recalling one of his sister's experiences... but i digress). Can you pass your turn, until you finally get a good movement roll - the condition that triggers your kite-process, starting it on a good roll? The goal is to avoid getting double-ones while kiting back.... Imagine: opening the door, shooting the crossbow, then, in order to kite back whatever big monster is there, rolling the dice and realizing you roll a double-one and the monster's going to catch up with you and beat the hell out of you to get even for that crossbow bolt of yours. Some say that from the moment you open the door, your movement has begun: opening a door is part of your movement, and if ever you shoot the crossbow after opening the door (even *without* moving your barbarian to an other square), then you can't move any more (since you can't cut-up/split-up your movement into 2 parts: one before attacking and one after attacking...) I'm curious as to your take on this.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I don't play free movement at all. Never have in any of my videos. Opening a door is not considered an action, it's just something you can do on your turn, so technically it's not going to break up your movement. I am sure, Jean, we have had this conversation before. The thing that stops you standing outside the door and rolling movement dice forever is the desire to have fun. If you play the game the way you describe, I can't imagine you will ever play it more than a few times because you will have an awful time. If you need to impose a restriction on yourself, then I would suggest one of these: 1. Unthreatened movement. This is an official rule from Avalon Hill, and one I use all the time. When there are no monsters on the board, you get a fixed movement value of 4 for each dice you would normally roll (so, 8 for most heroes). So, if you are standing outside a door and there are no monsters, you don't roll the dice, your move is fixed at 8. There's now no point waiting - your movement is never going to be any better than that - so open the door and get on with it. 2. Impose a timer on yourself. This is a house rule I came up with that I use sometimes. Whenever Zargon takes a turn and there are no monsters on the board, take a skull token. When you get so many (decide how many that should be for yourself - I say five), you draw the top treasure card. If it's treasure, discard it; if it's a trap or wandering monster play it. This generally encourages heroes to keep moving because the longer they take the more treasure they lose and the more hazards occur. 3. Treat opening doors as something that only happens as part of movement. In which case opening the door would be considered a move action, and therefore you couldn't open the door, shoot, and then continue the move action. Any of those options should help to reduce or prevent the issue you describe.

[@lucarocks7866]

You know, I was wondering... Have you ever done quest book overviews for Heroquest? Maybe just discuss the book in general and/or a couple specific quests as if you are talking to all the Zargons out there. Just giving some thoughts and advice on which one may be harder, which ones beg for adjustments etc... For example, I noticed that Quest 11 in the OG book is really there to get ready for the last three quests (what with the gold that's made attainable, the item and artifact). I am adding some extra goodies to it to make it feel more like this is it! Get ready for the fight of your life kind of drama lol. Would have been cool to be given a heads up about that quest. I dunno just a thought I had for more in depth videos

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

I talk about each campaign briefly when I review the expansions but that’s all.

[@superspecky4eyes]

A really lovely sculpt and you really knocked the face out of the park. Spot on. I notice you tend to mix and match with Citadel and AP paints. How do you get on with AP? I love their brushes but I find their paints have awful coverage and they seem to seperate a lot in the bottle. Mind you I only have a handful of them.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

When I first got back into painting the Army Painter mega paint set was a really inexpensive way to get a lot of colours that closely aligned with Citadel paint schemes, so that was how I got started again. I still have a lot of those paints now (they are ancient!). However, apart from the Speed Paints, I only buy Citadel these days because no matter what people say, I find them the best. Army Painter paints are good (and I like their coloured tone range), but I tend to find them a little more difficult to work with.

[@superspecky4eyes]

@@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring Yes, I only buy Citadel paints now. I do like the AP washes though. They are slightly gloopier than the Citadel ones, which I find works better for more subtle textures/details. I still use Citadel ones 90% of the time though.

[@TortleTalk]

Hah... I just finished painting this dude myself last night!

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Love painting these old Advanced Heroquest miniatures.

[@Morlock9000]

His badge thing looks like Pacman 😂

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Well now I can't unsee that!

[@pdubb9754]

I think I know why you don't like it so much. Or at least I know why I don't like it so much. The head is oversized.

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

The head is probably a little big, but not enough to bother me. I like the miniature, it's just my least favourite of the four heroes.

[@mackbolan1733]

Nice paintwork on the Elf...I really like the aesthetic of the older GW Elves, especially the Wood Elves...the newer ones are ok, but they don't give me that same Classic HQ/AHQ/WHQ feels...nostalgia probably...

[@AlwaysBoardNeverBoring]

Thanks. I feel the same way. I much prefer older Citadel miniatures. They have more character, and they aren't full of fussy details that are there just to prove a point.