How to patch a hole in wall or ceiling - DIY

[@geoffreykeane4072]

And fit a door stopper! Great vid as always Bill

[@Stevej2013]

Brilliant as always Bill. What do you use as your mud?

[@deebee3901]

Wonderful Bill! I hope (suggest) you or the owner will install a rubber door stop so the door handle doesn't punch through the plaster board again?

[@frumbert]

Yeah, then post a guide on how to stop my labrador from eating the rubber door stoppers off again

[@deebee3901]

@@frumbert you can try rubbing Vicks Vapour Rub on it and this should stop your dog from chewing it.

[@megand175]

Excellent but a bugger it’s 2 days too late for me, hoping what I’ve done works ok!🤞🏻🤞🏻

[@melburnian1979]

Helpful video Bill, I used the fina fuze tape today on some joints and it worked a treat, wayyy better than the sticky mesh we normally use. Cheers on tip about metal patch, I have used in the past but won't again.

[@mornat4638]

Fantastic work

[@rodneywallace2984]

Another top notch vid mate 👍 I'm getting me some Fibafuse tomorrow... Just because! 😂.. I actually have a few jobs for it over the coming months

[@savva1361]

Good repair

[@billshowto]

👍👍👍

[@kellyross4397]

Awesome job

[@tommobruh]

Great how to Bill, Any tips on patching horsehair plaster in a 60’s home?

[@CFox.7]

Bro I threw a cup threw a wall at a rental years ago and just poked a stiff cardboard wedge through and pulled it back towards me with string that id fed througth holes i made in the cardboard. Then patched it... later cut the string and scored and filled the string divots. Paint matched and done. Cheap and fast.

[@vashkarbhattacharjee5637]

Could you please make a video on toylet seats that won't stay up? You know for men's. 😜 At the same time, is there any way you stop slamming toylet seat to soft close?

[@viccecily7981]

Thanks Bill. How come you use cornice cement to fill rather than standard gyprock base? Didn’t quite catch the reason

[@hulkxy]

i find it dries quicker and easier to sand

[@hulkxy]

great job bro thanx just wondering where r u located

[@billshowto]

Sydney👍

[@adameid2014]

What plaster did you use after cornice cement?

[@frumbert]

I needed to patch a hole where the floating shelves pulled the platerboard off and made a large bubble, tearing the cardboard wrap on the plasterboard. The problem was that it crossed three joists/studs AND the base of my cut is on a noggin. Hard to cut the plasterboard across joists, and no way to put the flat backing support with the noggin in the way. What do you suggest?

[@billshowto]

Use a multi tool or saw to cut flat against the stud to remove the old piece. Also since you know where the studs are I would either attach timber to the side of the studs to use as support for the new piece or cut only half way through the stud and use half the stud as part of the support . Hope that makes sense and helps👍

[@StuckInTheM1ddle]

That's actually a good situation to have as you have studs and the nogging to fix to rather than having to additional pieces. As Bill says, just use a multi tool or anything bladed to cut the drywall on the studs. The screws don't need to be right at the edge of the drywall, they are just there to hold it in place, the timber backing is what's supporting against any flex.

[@BudgeProjects]

Nice work Bill great video. For coats 2 and 3 do you use top coat or still cornice cement? Btw do you know if Cornice cement is any good on villaboard in bathroom? James Hardie suggests their own basecoat

[@billshowto]

All purpose joint compound for 2nd and 3rd coats. I use cornice cement as well on villa board for base coats too

[@Em-PoweringElectrical]

Yiasou re Bill great video as always... Just a question in regards to the gyprock, plaster sheet or whatever they wanna call it. Are walls and ceilings both 10mm thick as a standard/commonly used in Australia?

[@billshowto]

Generally walls are 10mm and ceilings 13mm 👍👍👍

[@Em-PoweringElectrical]

@@billshowto thank you Bill 👌

[@ThomasMisso]

How about really small holes, Bill? For example, I've got a few smaller holes to repair from ramsey wallmates that have been removed and need filling.

[@StuckInTheM1ddle]

Easy, stick something in the hole (cardboard, wall plug with lip cut off etc.) and push it in so there's a small divot remaining...that's what you are filling now and any internal wall ready mixed filler will do the job. Just be sure to check the max fill depth of the filler. Usually advice is to fill the hole slightly proud of the wall and then sand back flat when dried (as most fillers will shrink slightly so if you fill exactly flat you might be left still being able to see where the hole was). Finally, spot prime the the filler before then painting over it (will help with flashing).

[@chrisschulze6110]

I diasagree using tape on patches that small, never used tape in 20 years on patches like that and never had a call back, and because there behind a door no need to take the top coat out that wide

[@19SSL94]

hard to watch cause of the lighting and quality of video.. other than that beautiful job!! the process was easy enough to follow to the point where, if i just had the audio i would been able to follow along.. mb bro just an honest review from a fan.. i gaurantee if the quality and clarity of the vid was as good as your content.. youd triple your watch time.

[@beena8510]

I once did it with the hollow MDF doors. I filled in the space where there once was a door handle because the joiner accidentally made it on the wrong side .

[@josephking6515]

I am going to have to punch a few holes in the wall so I can get my hole fixing skill level up. Filled in a removed light switch and with drying it took me three days and I can still feel a raised area. Can't see it but I can feel it. I have to get a wider joint knife and see if that helps. The 100mm wide Craftright may not have been wide enough for my lacking skill. The second biggest issue I have when fixing holes like this is that I don't have any scrap wood strips/pieces that I can use for the backing. I can tell you that 19mm plywood is not really ideal. 🤦‍♂ Our bloody builder put a hole in the wall from the lock twist knob on the door handle and just filled it with plaster and it fell out within 4 weeks of moving in. After 20+ years it's time to fix it properly this time me thinks. 🤔🤔Mmm, yeah. *Thanks* Bill. 👍

[@kristaaustova9743]

♥🤝

[@sal7501]

👍🏽👍🏽

[@byrny111]

Dont rate a californian patch?

[@billshowto]

Not for large holes👍

[@yourmasterrenovator86]

Technically using cornice cement is not ideal. It's been designed for a specific purpose while base coat is designed for this purpose specifically, unless you believe that you know better than the manufacturer!

[@josephking6515]

I will follow the advice of someone who makes his living patching the holes and not some manufacturer wanting to flog their own _"special"_ product.

[@yourmasterrenovator86]

I like Bill. A very lovely block and I've learned a lot from him and have left many nice comments for his posts and that's basically why I am here. There are many people who "make their living by doing things, I understand that. However, I'm not sure you have ever heard of the NBC (National Building Code)! You may wonder while base coat and cornice cement are the same price and manufactures made them for different purposes, no professional plasterer uses cornice cement as base coat while they make their living by doing so many times in their every single day! You do what you want to do and it doesn't concern me but promoting the fact that cornice cement is better for this purpose is just not right. I don't think it would be necessary to go through their shear strength and laboratory experimental facts in a comment but one may want to do so. I hope this helps to respect the NBC and try to promote it.

[@terlicher19]

Followed for years and use your videos all the time. Love your no nonsense and straight to point advice. Would love it if you could list all the exact products you use even your scrapers. So many on the market sometimes it gets confusing. Keep up the great helpful videos