How to Prepare Bare Metal for Epoxy Primer - The Most Important Part of Automotive Restoration

[@paulnewton943]

More on this build please. Next step now would be great

[@melomotive14]

Awesome Paul! We are hoping to follow the build. The next step of sanding the Epoxycoat and filling is always extremely satisfying!

[@Steve-jo3cl]

Great vid nice and simple not over complicating it like a lot of other videos do

[@melomotive14]

Thanks Steve!

[@fuzzayd4601]

do you filler straight on the epoxy coat or 80 grit it again first?

[@Jim-hv6ql]

Good timing as I'm almost due to epoxy my car. Question all the areas you cannot DA, like door handle recess, how do you prepare these areas?

[@melomotive14]

We try to get as much as possible with the sander, the coarser foam pads or using a small spot blaster are the best ways to get the hard to sand areas.

[@TheMinimoog1]

I would think orbital sanding can be risky as it can dig in ..

[@ryanlove5332]

What is the process for doing bare metal inside, where there are seams and other overlapping areas? What do you do for areas where there have been repair work on overlapping panels and where you can’t get it everywhere to paint?

[@melomotive14]

Blasting on all the insides is the most efficient way of removing coatings whilst also prepping the metal for Epoxycoat. Hopefully the factory seam sealer has prevented any corrosion from starting where the sheet metal overlaps. If there is corrosion, unfortunately there is no short cut, the panel will have to be removed and repaired. A copper weld thru primer should be used on the insides of the panel before replacing. A cavity wax can then be used to prevent rust from starting.

[@ryanlove5332]

Thanks, my project is a recreation of a GT40, using the original ford blueprints for the chassis panel. So I will be fabricating the panels and then spot welding them together as per the 1965 designs. Just trying to work out the best methods to use before i start sticking panels together. Was not sure if there is some form of joint adhesive that I should also be using during the assembly and spot welding. The GT40 chassis gets assembled as a number of sub assemblies so it would be possible to get a number of the parts all prepped up and assemble a sub assembly

[@Pirate_Pookie]

Was this sandblasted back to bare metal then sanded with the DA?

[@melomotive14]

This car was mechanically stripped (strip disc then sanded). Blasting can work well, however, you must be careful not to distort the flat panels.

[@Pirate_Pookie]

@@melomotive14 thanks, i have the same shell which i have recently striped with a strip disc but the underside and some of the engine bay is practically impossible to do without sand blasting. in your example what did you do in these areas as this was not shown. Thanks

[@melomotive14]

@@Pirate_Pookie the majority of shops we visit will get the areas that are difficult to sand by hand, blasted. This is by far the most efficient way to remove the coatings. Just remember to get the metal sealed with a 2K Epoxy within 4 hours of blasting.

[@robd1988]

Nice work bro! One question, do you use the rustco prior to the final sand and metal cleaning?

[@melomotive14]

Rusgo is another way to ensure there is no rust present. If using Rusgo, we recommend still preparing the steel the same way, then use Rusgo (as per the Technical Data Sheet) as the last stage before Epoxycoat. Give us a call if you require further information.

[@bigmuz_pilot]

What if it’s only Half bare metal?

[@melomotive14]

There are a few variables. It's always best to take it all back to bare metal as there may be 'surprises' under the exciting coating (old repairs, rust etc.). If you are confident the exciting coatings are sound, you could sand the steel with P80 and sand the coatings with P120, then apply the Epoxycoat to seal off everything. Hope this helps.

[@bigmuz_pilot]

@@melomotive14 thank you.

[@benhamilton5317]

Nice video ! When doing filler work do you sand epoxy before applying filler or straight to epoxy?

[@melomotive14]

Thanks, Yes, we recommend sanding with 120 grit, then blow and wipe clean before filler.

[@chrishall8142]

Someone should have stayed back at night to prime it

[@melomotive14]

Ideally yes! The guys had put in a huge day to get the body stripped. By the time they finished, cleaned, masked etc. the metal had probably been siting too long already. We thought this would be a good opportunity to emphasise the importance to re-sand the next day. Hope you enjoyed the video!

[@michaelbyrnes7944]

Pretty basic stuff I always wash the bare metal with GP thinners and breath all those beautiful fumes in I like para glaze epoxy the best as it stick likes shit to blanket and on parts has a really good gloss hold out with wet on wet and is really easily sanded for filler work and Skimcoating and never leave bare metal over night as you get flash rusting and shitfull job in ten years or six months down the track

[@dalecollison791]

And without using a step proceeds to rub dirty jacket arm on the bare metal roof.

[@melomotive14]

Haha, well spotted! Luckily Mick noticed and re cleaned that part! I would have needed a ladder to reach the middle!