How To Print Green Galaxy Water Based Ink On A White Underbase

[@chrisnwendyduncan]

I tried to catch the reason why you went from push method in the beginning and then ended up with the pull method. Is that just how you do it or was it because you flashed the underbase? Thank You!

[@thomaskalenak3281]

Wendy Duncan the final pull was to keep the screen flooded.

[@Tyler-216]

just a tad bit of a late response, but the underbase was probably sitting a little high. If your underbase is just barely off, a push or pull of any top layers can compensate it being off without having to mess around with microadjustments.

[@laurinhumphries7840]

It always seems the colors I overlay on top of my comet white underbase come off if I scratch at them or start to come off after washes. They’ve cured for at least 90 seconds and the ink is dry to the touch but still tacky after I flash and before I lay down colors on top. Is that just the nature of this ink?

[@danielmullins572]

Laurin Humphries , I’ve had the same problems with comet white as an underbase. I’ve found the only way to get it to work is using warp drive in the inks. This is why I have stopped using comet white as an underbase. I use plastisol ink if the job calls for an underbase.. it’s not worth the headache.

[@maddenfootballtalk6544]

@@danielmullins572 damn the white is that bad for undercoat

[@danielmullins572]

@@maddenfootballtalk6544 In my experiance yeah. Its a great ink but it is very tricky to use properly in my opinion. Ive actually had better luck using comet as an underbase for plastisol than for water-based inks.

[@maddenfootballtalk6544]

@@danielmullins572 how about as just a regular ink. Just as is no undercoat? I mean it's way more expensive than some other brands

[@danielmullins572]

@@maddenfootballtalk6544 it's a good straight up white. Cleans up really easy. A little hard to use cause it dries

[@ShastaLevi]

Can opaque core be used to print or just an opacity booster for mixed colours from clear core? Can l mix opaque colours with pigments from either opaque core alone or comet white alone? If no how can l mix opaque colours that can be printed directly on dark garments without a white underbase as discharge is not an option for me now and l hate working with plastisol though l love its look and characteristics i.e not clogging screens and popping colours.

[@Ryonet]

+ShastaLevi You can up the ratio of Opaque core and can even mix directly into Opaque core. If you mix directly into Opaque core you could find that the color will come out more on the pastel side and could have a tendency to dry in the screen quicker. If I feel like I need to make an ink more opaque I will actually make my base mixture more like a 60/40 or even 50/50 as opposed to the usual 80/20.

[@mikemclachlan4304]

Could you explain why or when you might use a push or a pull stroke? Is it just preference?

[@pkilla617]

Great video how long can I leave my screen flooded with that ink before it drys

[@Ryonet]

Hi @pkilla617 ! depends a bit on heat and humidity in your space. You could leave it for a break or a lunch (lunch would be pushing it). I would not leave it overnight or anything like that though. hope that helps some.

[@pkilla617]

@@Ryonet thanks a lot on the reply so air condition room could effettoo definitely well be buying soon just been using speedball and that stuff dries up pretty fast if not used properly

[@amiddleageman]

When you say "If you don't have a nice long tunnel" does that mean my water based ink isn't fully curing in a short tunnel dryer? Or should I just slow it way down? run it twice? can it cool down between trips through?

[@Ryonet]

+Nicholas Johnson We like to slow our conveyor down to increase the dwell time. Be sure to check the ink manufacturer's information for specific temperature and dwell time for your ink.

[@dukedevil910]

in the wet on wet does the ink from the previous color get on the screen of the next via the tshirt?

[@Ryonet]

Indeed it does! But this is not a problem since the design should be perfectly registered. Wet on wet printing is the fastest way to print and provides the softest hand so registering well in your design and on press is key :)

[@UHeardMe1stTime]

How does the white underbase affect the hand feel?

[@Jrpaez82]

Hey I have a question, I made a shirt using a underbase doing to passes flash right after every pass, than I used a pink color two passes flash per every pass, the print looked good but when my fiancé put it on the print looked I guess you can say waivy not smooth in some areas...

[@PixelGraphicsCoLLC]

Would have been nice explaining that wet on wet is great when colors do not overlap. Also explaining why you have to flood the screen?

[@Ryonet]

Sure thing! We apologize this video in particular is 9 years old but you bring up great points...waterbased inks will dry out in your screen so you want to keep the screen flooded at all times to help keep moisture in the mesh so it won't dry so fast. It also works best not printed wet on wet, you'll need to create a nice gel cure (meaning the very outer ink layer is dry to the touch but still slightly) which will help it not stick to your next screen. Please reach out on our site anytime for more support!

[@sergioledesma7378]

Hey just wondering what size mesh you use for the white underbase??

[@Ryonet]

+Sergio Ledesma great question! Normally an underbase wants full coverage so you're going to go with a 110-156, maybe even a 180 mesh if you want a softer feel. The higher the better when it comes to hand, the lower the better when it comes to ink deposit and coverage. Finding your perfect balance is the fun part :)

[@sergioledesma7378]

+Ryonet thanks ill give all those size a try then 👍see which one works best!

[@andreagrajeda4148]

Stupid question but would you use a white underbase on a white shirt to form brighter colors ? Or would you do just a flash in between instead ?

[@smyleeh424]

hi I am going to print some design for shirt but the other color should be florescent yellow what is the best cymk ink should I use.?

[@smyleeh424]

+Ryonet I'm sorry.. what I mean by that is I had design with the florescent yellow color , but when I print it using cmyk ink the florescent was different

[@jimmymorenotorres9217]

What number of meshes do you use for that impression?

[@Ryonet]

Generally a 156 to a 200 mesh is best :)

[@tluangaazl8920]

@@Ryonet polyester mesh or nylon mesh?

[@danielleparker1914]

What would you recommend using for drying if you do not have a flash dryer? I just recently bought your DIY starter kit and am doing a small practice job using the comet white on a black shirt.

[@Ryonet]

Danielle Teal 2 options :) A heat gun or a hot iron with silicon paper :)

[@dieabolic]

Ryonet when u say 'A heat gun' could i use a 'hair dryer' ?

[@RazorSharpMandM]

joshua gorey You need a heat gun. A hair dryer will not get hot enough. Heat guns you can pick up at a hardware store for $20 to $25.

[@dieabolic]

oh

[@dieabolic]

Heidi Sanchez oh k tks

[@ballerpro03]

the ink stays wetter with the dual cure emulsion vs other types ? I tried a 4 color design and i had problems with the ink drying out on me

[@Ryonet]

Hmm the emulsion shouldn't effect that. Maybe it could have been due to the age/condition of the ink.

[@artbarnett9328]

what is the green tape you use in this video

[@Ryonet]

+Art Barnett It's the best, super sticky but doesn't leave that nasty residue on your frames. Check it out here: www.screenprinting.com/r-tape-screen-block-out-tape-2-x-36yd-roll

[@artbarnett9328]

I don't have room for a conveyor dryer can I use my heat transfer press

[@Ryonet]

+Art Barnett It wouldn't be ideal. I would imagine the wet ink would stick to the hot surface. Check out our flash dryer, it has a small footprint so it would work well in a small space! www.screenprinting.com/ryo-flash-dryer-with-stand-casters-16x16

[@adamleyva9224]

Hey, so I have these same inks and am attempting my first print on a white underbase. Each time, the colors either seem to mix with the white, or thin out too much on top of the white. Is that an off-contact issue? Squeegee pressure? Using 156 mesh for underbase and 305 for the colors

[@Ryonet]

Thanks for the comment - give our success team a call at 800-314-6390 or email them at [e-mail] and they can help you out!

[@adamleyva9224]

I figured it out. Mix between off-contact issues, flashes, and main thing was the Comet White wanted to dry up too quick and laid funny on the shirt and got too sticky. I now keep a little water mister handy and spritz the comet white while it sits.

[@narutopenguingirl]

How much did you choke the whitebase?

[@Ryonet]

+narutopenguingirl I typically stroke it about .5 pixel - Ryan

[@narutopenguingirl]

Thanks!

[@lisivasmibos9208]

Can i ask what exactly is "off contact" ?

[@geozerogr]

Off contact is the distance between the mesh and the surface that you print.

[@benceliz6501]

hi whats the standard size u use for ur frame?

[@Ryonet]

Hey there! The standard size of our frames is 20x24!

[@benceliz6501]

U mean inches?. Tnx sir. And tnx for the Tips..

[@pescando-a-lo-loco]

The ink dry in my frame, whi? What I can do

[@Ryonet]

Here are some great videos to help you out buddy! kzbin.infosearch?query=cleaning+ink

[@maddenfootballtalk6544]

Gotta flood your screen once you finish your pull or push. Says right in video

[@RLogan-sl7xl]

couldn't you just discharge your colors to avoid using an underbase

[@Ryonet]

Absolutely! Discharge is a great way to keep a soft shirt and bold print :)

[@georgejohnston1394]

R. Logan what does that mean? I'm new to this and trying to find a lime green ink, do I always have to have a white layer underneath?

[@BLTspace]

@George Johnston On dark shirts the white underbase will help in making the color pop. Light shirts you should be fine with just green alone. Imagine a black room and you are trying to paint it green. The green might not show up great in which case you would do a coat of primer first. White underbase is pretty much the same thing.

[@danielmullins572]

Be really careful to not overflash this ink! If you over flash the top color will not properly bond to the underbase. He doesn't explain that in this video. Trust me. I did that for a job and after a wash and dry the top layer flaked off in certain areas. Big pain in the but.

[@mattkennicott2998]

This is my issue!!!! So do i just need to lower the flash time?

[@danielmullins572]

To be honest man I don't know. I thought I figured it out but then had the same problem at another job at a different time. Ive spent hours trying to figure out comet white as an underbase with repeatable consistent results to no avail. Really hope to have this figured out in the near future because its really killing me. I have to do a test print on every job before starting production because of this.

[@CARLITOESCOBAR777]

@@danielmullins572 Same issue over here. I have tried flashing for as little time as possible and then even went longer and I still had ink come up off the print on the screen but it was basically cured clumps, not wet at all. I actually messaged them today with this as this is the second time this happened on an overprint on a white underbase. The only thing I can think to do is discharge the underbase and then GG over everything.

[@danielmullins572]

Carlos Casarez yeah man i wonder if they maybe altered their formula in some way since these videos and maybe its causing bonding problems. It really stinks because the ink is great in every other way. If you figure this out please let me know what you did. Ill do the same for you.

[@AmericanWithTheTruth]

Ryonet why are you guys not monitoring the chat comments in these videos? These videos are still just as relevant to screen printers today as they were years ago and you guys haven’t responded to any questions in over four years?

[@Ryonet]

Good morning, @Tom Brooks! thanks for the comment. There was a time for a bit where we didn't have the bandwidth to commit to responses, but for the last handful of months we have been monitoring and answering comments. So, ask away. it can be hard to see older comments, so if the question/comment isn't current it doesn't really come up on our radar. hope that answers your question. Happy printing!

[@cecee021]

First you push, and then you pull, that is NO NO!

[@clonboymusic]

+Vladimir Nesic i am asking this myself as well, but as it looks he has no problems with that!

[@cecee021]

+Mister Onemoveahead yeah but we didn't see close up of print, Its half mm misstregistaraton for shure.

[@Ryonet]

+Vladimir Nesic Hey there Vladimir, thanks for commenting! This is a common misconception, the real key is consistency. For instant, if you pull to flood then push to print, make sure every print is done like this, no back and forth. Pushing or pulling however, is up to personal preference :)