How to re-saw. Bandsaw Technique.

[@musamor75]

This is very convincing; you're technique is extremely logical because it takes into account a lot of stress relief, and that's exactly where things start to go wrong. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and wide experience. This world need more fine souls like yourself. God bless. Greetings from France

[@MrEldoradot]

Great video. You are a born teacher. Thank you!

[@brianbarney1885]

Excellent video and explanation of your process. I have been resawing 1/8” veneer with my 14” Harvey successfully but this is a great tutorial on sawing thinner veneer. Thank you!

[@henrysara7716]

Thank you.

[@jackking9134]

I have ruined some good material trying to resaw. You have added a new dimension to my woodworking. Many thanks.

[@robertyoung7255]

Great video! I’ve been using a single point fence for resawing for the last 40 plus years. Side pressure is provided by a spring holdin. I also use a marking gauge to scribe the top edge of the board, as my single point fence is only 3 inches tall.

[@dodabartman123]

Great info David, thanks for your ideas.

[@jameswalunas8843]

A well done presentation. Clear and to the point 12:06

[@derekc423]

Thanks for this. I was really starting to think that my bandsaw was the problem. But I think I just didn't have the right technique.

[@jcurtis4082]

Nice! Thank you. Well demonstrated patience in your cut and not pushing it more than the teeth can clear.

[@henryrossouw930]

Have to try this.Thanks for sharing.

[@pabloponce8724]

Hi! Nice video! Could you please provide the approximate measurements of the 6 inch template? Thanks!

[@GrumpsSr]

I will be posting a video at 5pm today with a little more detail.

[@henryworkswoodandmetal]

Excellent method, thanks for the demonstration…..

[@johnwinn4213]

I enjoyed the video and unlike some of the trolls and armchair experts it was clear to me

[@GrumpsSr]

Thanks for your support.

[@carljerris9587]

Great tips. I wish I had this video a couple of years ago when I had a resaw project. One thing that may help in setup. When you tilt the table to check the blade and the curved jig, if you do that first you can slide the curved jig to the back of the blade and not worry about tooth tip touching top and bottom (my eyes are not the best). I can easily see 2 flat surfaces with the light between them. Once tilt of the table is done then do the line of jig to the blade on the other axis. Would this still work? Seems to me it would.

[@orisguitars7315]

Gonna make me one of these. Thank You

[@im-un-fragile]

So, a quick newbie question here: what is the difference between using the jig you made and using the fence? I recently tried to resaw a board (using the fence) and, even though I made sure the fence was square with the blade, there was a 1/8" slant between the two pieces? Any illumination you can provide would be helpful.

[@GrumpsSr]

To use the fence when re-sawing, the board would need to be absolutely flat. Even if it is flat, as you make the cut you would be releasing tension in the piece and it will move. Using a jig like the one I use has one point of contact making it possible to compensate for any movement as you cut, along with blade drift. Re-sawing also takes some practice.

[@ericerf6837]

Your adjustment when making the blade parallel to the jig was made by moving the table top rather than the fence, correct?

[@GrumpsSr]

That is correct.

[@RickySenseney]

Great video......I'm not thoroughly understanding how you're keeping the blade in the exact center of the board with no line to allow you to see if it's drifting one side or the other, or are you just able to do that by eyeballing it while the cutting is taking place?

[@GrumpsSr]

Just eyeball it.

[@bririch7]

I thought he said he would watch the back of the blade and keep the blade in the center of the kerf. Don't allow the back of the blade to touch either side of the wood as it exits. Is that right?

[@GrumpsSr]

That is correct.

[@rickappleby1043]

Does it help to draw a pencil line on the wood and follow that?

[@GrumpsSr]

I haven't had a need to do that, I don't see how it would be a benefit.

[@rickappleby3639]

Definitely going to try your method, thanks for your video!

[@TWC6724]

Interesting. I’m going to have to try this method. Do you end up planing the cut side afterwards? What if it’s a super thin veneer? Say 1/16”. Sorry, I’m new to resawing.

[@johnhagerty7998]

I’m trying to research old wood but when I go through the saw the wood keeps curving away from the fence

[@GrumpsSr]

Not knowing what your set-up is, there may be several things going on. If you are using the fence without a jig the material may be trying to follow the drift of the blade. Also, you need to be sure the blade is sharp and tensioned properly to resaw. The jig I use eliminates the need to worry about blade drift, but you can adjust you fence for drift which may help some.

[@rickessegern1920]

Resawing 1. SHARP blade of suitable size, around 1/2" x 3 TPI 2. Teeth gullets in centre of wheel 3. Good blade tension 4. Fence perpendicular to table and parallel with blade 5. Board planed flat and square against fence No Drift,

[@hamps856]

How do you keep the work piece square to the Blade??

[@jimgeelan5949]

Square material

[@revon0521]

Good technique. You never mentioned your motor specs, however. Horsepower can make all the difference.

[@GrumpsSr]

Its 4.5hp.

[@revon0521]

@ That’s a monster.

[@randylewis3438]

Could you add jig measurement to make my own

[@GrumpsSr]

Posting a video at 5pm today with a little more detail. Sorry for taking a while to get back to you.

[@arboristBlairGlenn]

The drawings were not very clear but good video

[@CodlFaaic]

Too bad you didn't show how to cut 1/16".

[@GrumpsSr]

I took that as a challenge, so I made a short cutting a piece of Cherry burl at .020" It is scheduled to post at 1:30pm today.

[@jameymikels1886]

Is that really a Ferrari back there?

[@GrumpsSr]

Yes, 1988 328. Red with tan interior. All original.

[@rastapete100]

Very interesting. Why the jig? Can't you just run the wood along your fence?

[@GrumpsSr]

Using the jig allows you to compensate for blade drift and any movement in the board as tension is released from the cut. The pivot point is at the cutting edge of the teeth and the centerline of the jig.

[@charlesgoodson7557]

⁠​⁠@@GrumpsSr If the bandsaw is adjusted correctly there’s no blade drift Always set the blade teeth in the middle of the wheel tire Proper blade tension set the blade will follow the fence

[@TheHandystanley]

Unfortunately, your markers are too light. Could not see what you were drawing.