How to rebuild a Dana 35

[@TimRedman]

For those like me who are doing diff work for the first time (though I'm pretty experienced doing other fixes on my Jeep), he's not even exaggerating a tiny bit in regards to the crush sleeve and the pinion preload. The amount of torque on the pinion nut is ridiculous, and once that crush sleeve engages, it is nothing but very tiny adjustments from there. The preload went from 0 - 18 in/lbs for me in very short order. All in all, this video, along with the basic techniques in other videos like the Dana 30 and 44, have been invaluable here, and have saved me a lot of time and grief. Thanks so much, BFH!

[@georgecomstock3209]

Never worked on the interior of an axle before. I had very loud noises coming from rear end and then pinion seal started dumping fluid. Local shop wanted $7000 to repair my 1997 TJ stock Dana 35, not including axle shafts or seals. So VERY thankful to find this video as well as one other (he explained the pinion pre-load in greater detail- no offense). I finally received all my parts yesterday afternoon as I got the axle stripped down to replace it all today. I was just re-watching both videos to refresh myself with the process. My carrier bearings/races were both badly pitted and I'm sure my pinion bearing is as well. Again, thank you. Your video is an absolute life saver!

[@Alpha-ms9nj]

I have 2 teeth sheard from the ring gear. I noticed it when I replaced the 2 outer shaft bearings and seals. Previous owner might have gotten the truck stuck or something at one time IDK, but I'm planning on rebuilding my 35 soon. This video is a nice refresher course for the job, thank you for sharing.

[@tsmith578]

You make some of the best differential and suspension videos that I have seen on KZbin along with some pretty nice wheeling videos. I have been working on stuff myself for about forty years and it is always good to see a fellow mechanic that tries their best to do things proper. I have a Dana 35 with the trac lock in my 1995 ZJ that I built that is probably well for a rebuild, I had to replace the pinion seal on it a while back which is often a sign of worn bearings. It was pretty surprising to see in your video that the bearings on that Dana 35 didn't have show any play in the pinion when you checked it, but the inner race was in such worn condition. Many people say bad things about the 35 but it is actually a pretty reliable unit, like most Dana axles. As long as people use them for the purpose they were intended and not overload it with giant tires on a vehicle that is heavily loaded with a lot of extra weight. Thank you for all your videos. Keep em coming, hope to see more soon. Tim from Wisconsin.

[@lolilolplix]

Great video, I just disassembled my 1985 G-wagen front axle, which is not far off from the Dana 35. I do hear lots of horror stories from the experts at various forums, about the need for new main shims, checking centerlines to face of pinion (and adjust with shims), and needing a diff housing spreader. This was nice to see a more practical approach.

[@40Spec]

This is the best how to video on the Dana 35 pinion bearing replacement.

[@ernierawlins5683]

I sure wish you was my neighbor. It's good to see someone knows what they are doing

[@ernierawlins5683]

Thanks for liking my comment Are you close to Kentucky if so are you looking for Jeep work?,

[@spelunkerd]

Wow, another brilliant demonstration. I was surprised how easily those spider gears came out once the crosspin was removed.

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

No!!! its how fast the oil comes out opening the cover

[@MattBrownbill]

That was such a good rebuild video, thank you. Having replaced my outer wheel bearings, I can see what I need to do with the rest, my diff was quite loose!

[@flyingwild2553]

Great video! I am about to start this exact job on a 2000 WJ. Pinion and carrier bearings are shot. Rear end is noisy all the time and whining when coast. Lots of play at the pinion yoke. Hoping to get away with just having to do the bearings like in this video, We'II see. Keep the videos coming!

[@20worksalot15]

Great video im about to embark on this same project on my 2003 tj previous owner literally did nothing to it . Ive had it 3 yrs now and replaced every mount bushing and bearing on it . Thanks again for the great video.

[@cfratify]

This video was incredibly helpful! Only comments I have are that the crush sleeve requires a ludicrous amount of torque to crush, so, working on jackstands, I ended up with a custom steel bar that was bolted to the yoke to react against the ground, and a floor jack driving the breaker bar. Just barely got there when the steel bar started to bend! I also skipped the tiny beam torque wrench and instead used a length of wood with notches every inch at 16"-20" from the yoke center and hung a water bottle filled to 1lb (via kitchen scale) off of it, moving outwards until the stick rotated from horizontal. Hopefully these tips help someone, thanks for the great video!

[@billiamebailey]

Just wanted to say thanks! Your videos helped me a ton with the rebuild/regear on my comanche axles. Got a decent pattern after 3 attempts.

[@steveobrien8792]

He Said "it's a Pain in the Rear." I love a good unintentional Pun!🤣

[@Gearhead.327]

You are an excellent instructor/teacher. Top marks!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Thank you!

[@131313655]

Thank you so much for making such videos, thanks to you, I have finally assembled my jeep

[@JARoot-ic8wy]

Very thorough, well done video. Thanks for including the part on paterning & checking backlash.

[@jefftomlin8013]

Excellent video and very informative. Now I will attempt to repeat this process on my Jeep. Thank you for the help.

[@chevtruck1000]

Take a small propane torch and heat up the area where the cross pin bolt threads in. They are usually covered with red loctite and the heat will release its grip.

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

If not heated try first then u know if someone been in there

[@jdimeo1966]

Excellent video. Excellent camera work. Thanks for sharing this.

[@markallen1320]

Yes thanks for showing how to do a rear end job great video thank you.

[@RalphFarley]

Absolutely enjoyed the video it was very informative although I've done them before you get rusty in between and it helped me out a lot

[@mattmansell4238]

Best axel rebuild video I've ever seen!

[@psrivats]

You made it look easy. Having watched a differential service in person, I know it's not! Great video.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Having a video to reference will make it a whole lot easier! That is why I make these. I've had a whole lot of people help me throughout the years and it's nice to be able to give back👍

[@YOUZTUBE2000]

Truly nice- definitely a professional! Especially with your instructional skills!!!! Btw Great looking shop.

[@131313655]

@@TheBFHGarage I did the same thing, but my left bearing is clamped, it turns very hard, I don't understand what the reason is

[@TheBFHGarage]

No idea. Might need to replace the bearings.

[@131313655]

@@TheBFHGarage I replaced them , they are new , I changed the ring and pinion , I put everything together in reverse order , I left the old washers , but when I tighten the right bearing covers very tightly , the differential is not turned by hand

[@bingobandit]

I'm very concerned with my 98 TJ. Looks like I might be in for some work. I really enjoy new projects, but it's the intimidation factor. So If I do have to swap some parts, I'll be watching your video over and over. Thanks for the instructive video.

[@tonyring5253]

Best differential rebuild video out. Only thing I think could be added is how to determine the amount of shims needed before pressing the pinion bearing

[@TheBFHGarage]

This video wasn't a full rebuild, rather a bearing refresh. I have other re-gear videos on the channel.

[@tonyring5253]

@@TheBFHGarage I’m currently in the middle of a 35 rebuild on my 00’ TJ. It’s my first time doing a complete tear down so I will definitely be referring to your videos for assistance.

[@TheBFHGarage]

The same principles apply.

[@butcher4842]

Excellent video, very well planned, thank you

[@carreon604]

The best video I seen so far how to it right

[@averagejoe9234]

Great explanation…. I’m hoping your channel grows because you really know your stuff

[@TheBFHGarage]

Thank you!

[@shawn284]

Thank you, been looking for a d35 rebuild, perfect!

[@eliinthewolverinestate6729]

Start by inspecting axle tube spot welds on the differential. Simple check that could save lots of money and time. I wish I did. Because I was back under xj after putting new bearings and seal in. Could of swapped rear end and been done. Saving time and money.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Yeah I agree about the Dana 35 being an undesirable axle. My video is geared towards something that is stock and street driven. Easy to change out bearings👍

[@dannymatthews855]

Excellent video.. thank you..

[@thyagorodriguesalvarez5264]

Muito Obrigado, it was from a great help.

[@teamsix7185]

Best damn channel on KZbin.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Thanks for the compliment!

[@Leothelion357]

Thanks man🙏

[@kentgilbert2587]

Great advice; thanks for offering a cup of perspective. On the “rebuilding a Dana 35” video, there is no mention of measuring the pinion depth. Wondering about that.

[@TheBFHGarage]

The only thing that was changed was bearings. The depth stayed the same. When changing bearings there is no need to do anything other than replace the shims exactly where they came from. Now if you were going to change the gear set too, then it would require an entire rebuild including reestablishing pinion depth.

[@kentgilbert2587]

@@TheBFHGarage Once again, thank you so very much. You’ve been exceedingly generous with your time and attention. I watched your total rebuild of a Dana 44 video. And have quite a few questions as it regards my 35, and what I’ve done thus far. Is it appropriate to keep seeking your help; or is this kinda taking on a life if its own (be honest)?

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@kentgilbert2587 If I see the questions and have time I'll answer them. If not, another option is exclusive access via my Patreon page.

[@kentgilbert2587]

@@TheBFHGarage Once again, you are SO very generous. And deeply appreciated. Pinion - measuring for depth now; removed preloaded pinion (preloaded prior to discovering I need to depth measure. Took 3 tries, with new crush and nut each time). Are the pinion threads still good to go? The outer bearing and seal? Measured pinion depth 3 different ways; need to add .07 shims. Between inner bearing and gear, correct? Which is the correct way to insert pinion seal - rubber facing inward or toward driveshaft? Will need to replace the driver side axle shaft (shorter one, right?). Okay to replace just one axle shaft (not a pair, like pinion and ring)? I know some of these are fairly elemental. But I am growing weary of discovering mistakes as I obtain more information.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@kentgilbert2587 first off, do not use the crush sleeve until final setup. Instead, just tighten the nut down until you start getting a little resistance on the bearing. That is all that is needed at this point. Are you doing a regear or just changing bearings? If just changing bearings, don't change any shims, leave everything where it was. If you ARE changing gears, then the shims can go between the pinion head OR they can go behind the inner race (which requires making a "setup" race. Watch my other regear videos to see what I'm talking about. They will shed a lot of light on the subject for you👍

[@mebe2k]

What would cause the shaft that holds the spider gears in place to bust? I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee looks like the shaft for the spider gears broke, spider gears came out and the pinion got all chewed up

[@kyleharris3]

What tools are used to set the bearings for this particular Dana 35? Im fixing to rebuild my diff..and would love to get these specific tools. Looks like a flat lid with a handle

[@sprad199118]

Great video! Thanks

[@andyb5907]

For me it looks like a perfect job...when can I bring mine :-)

[@tommasa8088]

Thanks Mike. wondering when you put the crush sleeve on if orientation matters? There is a subtle difference between both ends of the crush sleeve - which end goes on first toward the gear?

[@TheBFHGarage]

It usually only goes on one way. If you can flip it, I would ensure that you have the right one first. If you do, then the big end towards the pinion head.

[@MichaelStethem]

Hey There - I used your Dana 35 rebuild YT video to rebuild my rear diff. Awesome video! My first time doing it and I got everything all set, just one minor hickup. My seal is leaking now. I actually hammered in the seal and forgot to put in the pinion bearing, and tried to re-use the same seal, which inevitably caused a leak. On that note, I'm going to replace my seal and nut. Do I also need to replace the crush sleeve? I'd like to avoid pulling out the carrier and pinion if possible, but would rather do it right than easy. Please let me know when you have a minute, and really appreciate your feedback!!

[@ViktorKresnov]

getting ready to service my rear diff on my 05 grand cherokee, ive never done this before but have built 12 subaru motors, wouldnt you want to use lube on the bearings when reassembling, such as red assembly lube?

[@TheBFHGarage]

I squirt gear oil on them.

[@Mohamedseddek]

I like your channel I have subscribed 👍

[@desotosky1372]

Thank you for the video. Any reason to not replace the spider gear shims also?

[@TheBFHGarage]

The video just shows how to replace them. I would install whatever your new kit comes with.

[@kentgilbert2587]

You really are a gifted teacher. Thanks so much. A question relating to the pinion seal - what is that part #?

[@TheBFHGarage]

The part numbers change over time so it's easiest to just get on Rock Auto and cross reference.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Part # is Dana 43085

[@kentgilbert2587]

@@TheBFHGarage Thank you SO much. Two words to describe you….awe and some!

[@mazherkhan8298]

Hello Mike, Thanks so much for a very informative video, I've a TJ 97 with a Dana 35 , 411 gear ratio. The rear differential is troubling, I opened up the diff cover found few teeth of the Pinion gear are broken. I bought a new set of Pinion and ring gear along with a new kit of all bearings and seals after watching your video I'm daring to work on it by myself. My question is the old Pinion gear has 128 number on it the new one has 167 number. Does it really matters. please 🙏 reply to this at your earliest possible time. I love to be it back on the road Thanks again Mazher Khan Smithville ON Canada

[@TheBFHGarage]

Don't worry about the numbers on the pinion. Start with what was already in there. That usually gets me pretty close starting out. From there you can determine if you are deep or shallow and make adjustments. Remember, the oil slinger between the pinion bearing and pinion head count towards your shim stack thickness. If your axle has a baffle behind the inner race, it also counts toward your shim stack thickness.

[@mazherkhan8298]

Thanks so much again

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

Divide ring gear and pinion u get ratio

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@kennethfriedberg2358 he wasn't asking about ratio, he was asking about pinion depth markings.

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

@@TheBFHGarage ok

[@jeffery196996]

first off. thank you very much for taking your time to help us out!!! very much appreciate it!! one question. you torqued the carrier bearing caps at 57lb. spec sheet says 80ft/lb. i did everything to all your specs. eve the 15-20in/lb on pinion. did you change your spec on the caps for carrier?? thanks again!! jeff

[@TheBFHGarage]

I go with what the factory service manual states for that year.

[@jeffery196996]

hello mike. one more question. i just got to take jeep for test run after putting all new bearings and seals in rear end. used the same thing ring and pinion. i used lucas 85-120 oil. i pull a trailer with four wheeler so that why heavier oil. what temperature range should my rear end be in. i took it down the road about 3-4 mile and come back. i can lay hand on it and just tolerate the heat. anymore at all i wouldn't be able to tolerate it. thank you jeff

[@TheBFHGarage]

When it's a new ring and pinion it will be hot enough the first couple cycles that you won't be able to hold your hand on it. The fact that you can hold your hand on it for any amount of time tells me it's good, but everyone has a different tolerance for heat.

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

I just used a long breaker bar

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@kennethfriedberg2358 for what?

[@marcmerritt6668]

Thanks for the video! This is my first try at setting pinion preload. I set it between 16-20 with old bearings but when I put the carrier in it changed to 36-40. Is that normal?

[@TheBFHGarage]

What do you mean you set it with the old bearings? Pinion pre-load is established after the depth has been determined. Not sure what you did, but it doesn't sound right....

[@marcmerritt6668]

@@TheBFHGarage I just changed the crush sleeve and new seal. The PO had taken it out. I think I have answered my own question though. Of course it would more torque to turn the yoke with the carrier in.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@marcmerritt6668 I see what you're saying and yes, with the carrier installed that changes everything.

[@kidlolek]

Working on regearing rear-end on my '93 Jeep Wrangler Dana 35. A question I cannot seem to get a straight answer on is since I am going from stock 3.07 to 4.10 on rear-end, do I need to regear front-end immediately to match or am I good so long as I do not engage 4wd until the front-end has been regeared to match the rear? Just wondering if I can drive jeep around town (in 2wd obviously) until I complete regearing of the front-end to match. Appreciate your videos.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Yes, you can run around in town in two wheel drive. You put it in four-wheel drive, you'll blow up your transfer case. The easiest way to eliminate that threat is to remove your front drive shaft.

[@JordaniKrea]

just a question would I remove 2 of the back wheels before doing this

[@TheBFHGarage]

Yes

[@jameslittle2051]

If. I am. Changeing. From. 308to 411. Do I have to put that spacer on back of pinion be hind. Bearing

[@TheBFHGarage]

Yes

[@mikejones-nl3fg]

I need a shim pre load,ring and pinion the guy said both carrier bearings… a shop tried charging me 2,086 bucks to do which I though was crazy on my TJ and I have a lift to try these just need to watch more on the shimming. Any info besides watch video again is much appreciated

[@TheBFHGarage]

I'm not sure what you are asking. If it's just bearings, you can change those out and leave the shims in the same place... DO NOT MOVE THEM. Why is the shop saying you need new gears? You should be able to get an entire new rebuild on both axles, including gears, for the price they quoted you.

[@user-04PhoenixWJ]

Watched your video, Did all new pinion and carrier bearings. When trying to install back with old shims it was so tight they broke. Ordered new shim kit, and still can't get Carrier in. The rearend is still mounted under the wj, and im laying on the ground trying to install it with NO LUCK. Any advise on what could be doing wrong? Not to mention bearing races try to cock sideways, and i used calipers to measure thickness of new bearings. Thanks!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Make sure you have the correct bearing and race combination. I see often that people have the wrong parts. The observation that the bearing race wants to cock sideways would make me suspicious that you either have the wrong bearing or the wrong race. Don't get me wrong, if they mate up perfectly, they can still get wonky while you're trying to install and that's sometimes normal during that process. Lastly, if you have verified everything is what it should be, then simply build your new shim stack so that you have 6-8 thou backlash since they are new bearings. Worst case scenario is a complete rebuild if it fails. Good luck with it!

[@user-04PhoenixWJ]

I ordered the bearings from Spicer and Everything matches up. Thanks for the info.

[@kentgilbert2587]

Two questions, if you would be so kind. How much pockmarking on the axle (under the wheel bearing) is acceptable? It is minimal; I could send a picture if that’d help. #2 - possible to re-use carrier bearing cap bolts, with loctite?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Any pitting is undesirable. If you say minimal, then it may be ok for awhile but if you're already in there why not just replace them? Yes you can reuse the carrier bearing cap bolts.

[@kentgilbert2587]

@@TheBFHGarage Thank you so very much! Much of this project has been subjective, so your expertise is invaluable to me. Deeply appreciate all your help with this, I’m grateful for you!

[@ColinDies]

Going to be doing this to a Dana 44 in a week or two. If you replaced all 4 bearings in the housing, how would you go about reading the pattern? I've got a pinion bearing to replace for sure, but had considered replacing all bearings while I had everything apart. Is it as simple as setting pre-load and backlash using original shims, and making sure the pattern is reasonable? You mentioned in your "Installing used gears" video that the gear set work-hardens together. How does that affect the pattern after replacing all the bearings?

[@TheBFHGarage]

If all you are doing is changing bearings, then there is no need to run a pattern or check backlash. I do it out of habit and curiosity. Keep all shims where they came from. Be sure to change all the bearings though, because if you don't, that could throw things off. When I talked about setting up used gears, that is referring to taking the gears from one housing and putting them in another. That's when you need to check backlash and run a pattern.

[@ForceBuilt]

Question. I rebuilt my Dana 35 diff 800 miles ago. At 500 miles I changed the fluid. I checked the backlash and it had changed from .008 to .010”. Is that normal? Great videos, Thanks!

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@ForceBuilt it is normal for backlash to open up a little bit as the bearings break in

[@ForceBuilt]

@@TheBFHGarage thanks a bunch!!

[@brycejaynes2388]

Do you have a description of the sound you were experiencing? I have a humming sound that only happens with minimal throttle input while cruising, if I push in the clutch or in neutral it stops. I already replaced the clutch, throw out and pilot bearing, new SYE kit and drive shaft, changed transfer and transmission fluids, all of which did nothing for the sound. Thanks for the video!

[@TheBFHGarage]

Pushing in the clutch in wouldn't make an axle issue go away. Maybe check your tranny mount.

[@mikeconnor3602]

I am about to do this job on an 09 Jeep Liberty and have been watching excellent videos like yours for tips. I have quotes of $1,100 to $1,250 for this job not including the wheel bearings and seals which I will do for PM reasons. Thanks for the carrier cap orientation tip I hadn't seen that elsewhere but my engine bearing knowledge should have told me to watch the orientation, so thanks. I also liked your clam shell puller video, and will try to rent that. I am curious what impact gun you are using and what the ft.lb. capacity is, I always like to buy a tool like that if I do it myself. Thanks for your excellent instruction videos

[@TheBFHGarage]

Milwaukee M18.... The thing is a beast! I believe it has 1450 ft lbs breaking torque

[@mikeconnor3602]

@@TheBFHGarage thank you, I know what you mean, I have a Milwaukee Hole Shooter 1/2" drill that will twist your wrist off if you aren't careful. Thanks

[@jeremyhanna3852]

What about the white paint marks from the factory on the carrier if it was touching it would be gone the marks on that carrier is from when it was machined at the factory

[@TheBFHGarage]

Not necessarily, and not in this case. That part of the carrier isn't machined smooth, so the marks (as they are in this case) can be in a slight recess allowing the other part to make contact first. Look at the black part vs. the shiny part. The shiny part used to look like the black part.

[@ThatGuyFromArizona]

If I remove the ring gear and change the bearings, does the ring gear need to be returned to its original location? I marked it originally but the marks are now gone.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@ThatGuyFromArizona why did you remove the ring gear just to replace the bearings? Did you run a pattern and note the backlash prior to doing so? At this point it's a gamble 🤷

[@ThatGuyFromArizona]

@@TheBFHGarage The carrier bearings were bad. 118k on the truck

[@bobs74xlch]

Why can't you reuse the original crush sleeve when you do a re-gear? Also, if you have to remove the pinion to add or remove shims, do you need to replace the crush sleeve as well?

[@TheBFHGarage]

When you "crush" a sleeve, you can't "uncrush" it. You have to start with a new one to obtain the proper preload. When setting up gears, you DO NOT install the crush sleeve every time you make an adjustment, only at final setup. During setup, you simulate preload but tightening the bolt down until you get drag on the pinion.

[@bobs74xlch]

@@TheBFHGarage thanks for that feedback, I just received the complete gear set from Revolution and in the process of getting everything ready to do this instal. I just wanna try and best cover all my basses as best as possible, I'm definitely not interested in F'n this up. I've watched several of your videos and they have given me a lot of confidence moving forward..... Thanks Again

[@edlozano8694]

How can you differentiate between Dana gears ? 35, 45 etc

[@TheBFHGarage]

Was this a pun?😂 Ring gear size. If you're planning on buying used gears be careful! Lots of differences out there.

[@twiingeneticist1417]

I have a (possibly dumb) question. Would it be the same steps to rebuild a dana 30 (I have to rebuild both the front and back)

[@TheBFHGarage]

Not a dumb question at all. The process is exactly the same. The difference is the Dana 35 uses C clip. But that doesn't affect setting the gears.... That process is the same

[@twiingeneticist1417]

@@TheBFHGarage oh, ok thank you.

[@Deadbuck73]

I just started hearing a faint thump sound on my D35 when I give gas while going down the road… just as I’m maintaining speed… if I’m super gentle with the gas I don’t hear it… is it possible I’m heading into this process? Or could it just be the U joint? Either way I really enjoyed this video! Very awesome! I am wondering more about the pattern with the yellow paint.. what we’re you looking for when you did it… thanks for making a great video!

[@TheBFHGarage]

It could be anything. Check easy stuff first. Driveshaft u-joints, pinion in/out and side to side play (rotational play is ok). If the pinion moves in /out or side to side you either need new bearings or a complete diff rebuild.

[@Deadbuck73]

@@TheBFHGarage thank you for the quick response! I’m thinking I should start with the u joint and changing the fluid… I have only had the vehicle for one oil change… but it’s got 247k on it… so I’m hoping a little maintenance will help… I’ve heard the noise before on other vehicles and don’t know as though it was ever a bad turn out so fingers crossed!

[@tommasa8088]

thanks Mike! Great video - I have a really dumb question for you(I'm a real novice here)...how did you get the spider gears to rotate while the ring gear/pinion gear do not rotate?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Turn the driveshaft. I had it on a stand so you couldn't see the pinion turn. Once the window is in front then you can spin the spiders inside.

[@tommasa8088]

Hey Mike, thanks again. what might be the cause if my spider gears won't freely move? For the life of me, I can't move them - they seem frozen. They look in really good shape from what I can tell so I'm at a loss. I took the pin out and still nothing moves. Mine is from a '01 TJ and I was assuming it was the original dana 35 but maybe not.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@tommasa8088 make sure they move freely before trying to take them out. If the shafts are still in they won't come out. If they still feel stuck, take a piece of wood and tap with a hammer to see if you can get them to move.

[@tommasa8088]

So according to a local dealer I called a year back, they said per my jeeps VIN it only had the standard differential. That now seems WRONG. After doing a bit more research and educating myself a bit more, I now realize and can see it has the Trac Lok with the clutch packs, etc. That's why they don't move easily, right? Last time I changed diff fluid I did not put in the specialty additive. I only put maybe 300 or 400 miles on it after that diff change last year but do you think I damaged the trak-loc as a result? Since the spider gears seem to look fine, I am hoping not and maybe I don't have to mess with the spider gears and clutch packs. The gear noise I have I am pretty sure is just the pinion bearings needing to be replaced. Your video should still be a great resource for doing that even though its limited slip.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@tommasa8088 you're fine to put in additive now. No biggie.

[@mefistofer]

Mike... What is the reason to deviate from the FSM?... You got me worried since I followed the FSM and set my pinion preload / rotational force at 27 in/lb... Which was kind of halfway between 20 and 35

[@TheBFHGarage]

I was taught by an old timer gear setter and that's what I was taught. The original setups are anywhere between 20-40 in/lbs. He and a lot of other gear setters state that going to high will result in burned up bearings. I think you'll be just fine at 27 in/lbs. My "target" is 16-20. If I go slightly over it'll still be fine. I just posted a JK video that ended up at 22. Not a huge deal, but I'd try to stay away from the upper end of the FSM.

[@mefistofer]

@@TheBFHGarage thanks Mike... You're a great teacher indeed!

[@tracycarberry2774]

Please can you give me a link to the bearings kit that you bought already have my diff all taken apart I have Dana 35 with 355 gears witch looks the same as your video

[@TheBFHGarage]

Go to Summit Racing, Quadratec, or Amazon and do a search based on your year and model.

[@tracycarberry2774]

Looking for that inch pounds tester that you had in the video any idea where I can pick one up just left harbor freight and nothing

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@tracycarberry2774 go on Amazon and search beam style in/lbs. torque wrench

[@tracycarberry2774]

@@TheBFHGarage sorry to keep bothering you but when you crush the sleeve on the pinion that's what's setting the backlash

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@tracycarberry2774 crushing the collapsible spacer has nothing to do with backlash. It sets the pinion preload. If you're trying to set up gears vs. just changing out bearings, go to my other videos about gear setting.

[@tracycarberry2774]

Can you tell me for the master shims I took my carrier out and don't remember how the shims go back in flat side on carrier or flat side on the outside I've tried pause the video and see but just gets blurry thanks I'm advance

[@TheBFHGarage]

If your shims are the same diameter as the race, they go to the outside. If the inside diameter is the same as the bearing journal on the carrier, then the go under the race. I ALWAYS tell people you have to pay attention when you are pulling things apart!

[@tracycarberry2774]

Ok so if you are referring to it going to the inside and outside of the bearings I know that it goes to the outside like in your video I have the same axel d35 on my 99 xj I'm specifically referring to the shim that goes on the outside of the bearing race it's flat on one side and tapered on the outside can't remember if the flat side goes to the bearings race or to the axel side

[@tracycarberry2774]

Wish I could send you a picture to show you what I'm talking about

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@tracycarberry2774 oh ok, the flat side to the race, beveled to the outside. It really doesn't matter honestly if you can get it in either way.

[@tracycarberry2774]

Thank you your the only reason I've decided to take on this task I've done a lot of work myself even doing a 4x4 conversion on my 2 door xj but know how important it is to get everything right so there isn't a catastrophic failure so thank you for the knowledge just pick up my diel indicator wish me luck

[@ethanh2392]

New bearings, new crush sleeve, pinion nut tight but yet i still have in and out play on the pinion. I pulled it off and the crush sleeve looked like it wasn’t crushed at all. Is there not enough shims on the pinion?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Keep tightening the pinion nut until the crush sleeve starts to crush

[@ethanh2392]

@@TheBFHGarage I’ve used my impact and a breaker bar and can’t seem to get the nut to turn any more?

[@ethanh2392]

@@TheBFHGarage Any idea how many shims there is supposed to be?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Those crush sleeves can be taken tough sometimes taking 600ft/lbs to start.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@ethanh2392 The thickness of shims depends on your axle setup. There is no magic number.

[@kamH5039]

So if im replacing my pinion and carrier bearings in my D30 i dont need to change any of the shims? Just press new bearings on with same shims an double check backlash and pattern. No need for setup bearings?

[@kamH5039]

@The BFH Garage

[@TheBFHGarage]

Correct. Backlash and pattern will be what they will be.

[@kamH5039]

@@TheBFHGarage thanks for your quick response and all your great informative content. This is going to be alot easier than expected....

[@kamH5039]

Ok, well i ended up snapping my pinion trying to crush my crush sleeve but i honestly think the threads were crossed or something. I have new yukon r&p otw. Can i use a grade 8 nut for setup pinion nut? And any tips on how to get crush sleeve started on LP Dana 30? Thanks again bro!!!

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@kamH5039 I've had that happen once to me too and that sucks. Some people will start the crush sleep in a press but it moves so very little that it's easy to overdo. I always have a bunch of extra opinion that's laying around so I've never tried great, but I don't know why it wouldn't work as long as it's the same thread pitch.

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

I"m going to have to do my dana35

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

noise maybe coming from axle

[@TheBFHGarage]

Sometimes it's far easier to locate another TJ Dana 35 and swap it in rather than re-gear it👍

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

@@TheBFHGarage I want to put in a 3.07 gear

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

@@TheBFHGarage mine only has 119,000 were u think going to find one with low milage??? beside its a liberty

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

I been watching video after video

[@magnumondeko6503]

I just redid my 07 nitro rear wheel bearings. .. in doing so, I had to take everything in your video apart. I did everything, except I did not check a pattern. If I did what am i looking for? .... I now have a clunk clunk sound. Any ideas? The first time I had to do anything with a diff. . . Now I guess I'm going to take it all apart again. lol

[@TheBFHGarage]

Can you clarify more on what you did? What do you mean wheel bearings? If you only replaced the bearing with no other changes, and using the same gears, then you shouldn't have to run a pattern. Simply put everything back the same way it came out.

[@MrMagnuminium]

@@TheBFHGarageThanx for the reply. ya. That's what I thought. It's a strange one. As if the pinion is knocking on the casing. . . It happens going forward and backward. This is what I have concluded with research. Sucks, I don't want to tear it all apart again lol

[@MrMagnuminium]

@@TheBFHGarage did it again. Also the fronts. Surprise surprise. Lordco gave me the wrong bearings. Lmfao. Lesson learned, size your stuff!!! Hahaha.

[@flman1284]

How do I get the roll pin out? Tried a punch.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Make sure it's the right size punch and that you're hitting it from the correct side.

[@flman1284]

@@TheBFHGarage punch fit and no budge, was trying to hit it out opposite of direction to go in. Do I need to punch it through?

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@flman1284 I suppose it could be corroded in there...BFH😁

[@flman1284]

@@TheBFHGarage oh joy. Looks like leaking axle seals will be the new norm on my YJ.

[@Brv1nBl0w]

Thats my turn now

[@moparerrnocar]

Dont forget to rtv the splines on the pinion.

[@TheBFHGarage]

RTV the splines? Do tell.....

[@moparerrnocar]

@@TheBFHGarage I was taught to rtv the splines of the pinion/yoke to prevent oil weep overtime. Not always necessary but it doesnt hurt.

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@moparerrnocar never have done it. No leaks. 🤷🏼

[@luisgordillo1695]

didn't see the drive side pattern . that the side that counts mostly.

[@tomkatinokla1]

So . . . this is not a limited-slip unit, or you just didn't fool with the clutch plates?

[@TheBFHGarage]

That's an open differential.

[@tomkatinokla1]

Thank you. I'm new to the world of rear ends, lots to figure out.

[@jbone6969]

U really didnt explain the crush bearing / sleeve to well..did u just tighten it until u had no more play in and out?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Depends on if you're completely replacing it or not. If you ARE, then it needs to be tightened (crushed) until you get 16-20 pinion pre-load. If NOT, then use red loctite on the nut and tighten to 160.

[@disgruntledconservativevet1798]

I took that trash out of my Jeep and put a Dana 44 in it. Jeep should be ashamed of putting such garbage in a jeep.

[@jameshuffman835]

Not properly preloaded?! Should have to use a case spreader on that axle!

[@TheBFHGarage]

You can preload just fine without a case spreader.

[@PSModernKitchens]

fantastic video! Thank You!