How to Remove Scratches from cars - Wet sanding guide

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#forensicdetailing #detailing

[@hakman239]

Your hair makes you look like a mad scientist

[@nikolaos7899]

Great vid mate! Been learning a lot watching your reviews/hot too's. About to jump into the world of machine polishing and funnily enough was considering giving wet sanding a go to remove my orange peel (had the car resprayed recently). Was also weighing up options like using denim pad (although it'd be on a DA so not sure how long something like that would take). Can't wait for this orange peel vid now! Keep up the splendid work mate!

[@mattslater2165]

Good overview of wet sanding, but perhaps it should also be mentioned that when you wet sand out a deepish scratch in a panel which has noticeable orange peel, it's likely you'll be removing a lot of the orange peel in the area of the scratch you're sanding, which would leave a flat area of paint on a panel - and this can sometimes stand out as much as a scratch. To minimise this on a panel which has heavy orange peel I would recommend using a foam backed wet 'n' dry pad (a Mirca Abralon pad for example) which tends to 'ride' the orange peel more than using paper and a hard foam pad, thereby allowing a better texture match on the panel. Of course, this all depends on the depth of the scratch in the first place and a lot of the time it's impossible NOT to flat the paint in order to remove the defect. In which case I'd recommend buying wet 'n' dry daisies and the corresponding tool to sand with them simply to keep the area of the repair to a minimum. I'd also recommend that it's worth buying a PTG (paint thickness guage) before undertaking sanding out any moderately deep scratches so that you have a good idea of how much clear coat you have to play with before you start sanding. A cheap PTG costs way less than repainting a panel, should you sand through the clear coat. One last thing. If you happen to start sanding a defect or orange peel with, say, a 2000 grit paper/pad and then refine later with a 2500/3000 paper/pad, start the sanding process with horizontal strokes and then, when refining with a less abrasive paper/pad, sand ACROSS the damage with vertical strokes when you move to a lesser grit paper/pad. Doing this you'll be able to see when ALL the original sanding marks have been refined with the less abrasive paper/pad, meaning you're good to go with the compounding/polishing stage.

[@ForensicDetailing]

brilliant matt, these types of comments are gold...

[@mattslater2165]

You're more than welcome. Your videos are awesome. I'm a big fan of your channel and especially like your product reviews. Keep 'em coming mate :)

[@PhilGradwell]

Matt Slater That's a handy tip about changing sanding direction, thanks. Agree about the paint thickness guage, I wouldn't be without mine.

[@8516brian]

Matt Slater i

[@MindbodyMedic]

@@8516brian you could cut a piece of sponge and insert it in between your sanding block and the sandpaper if in a bind

[@jonathanjackson1222]

Hi John, thanks for the advising on the vid. I’ll be giving it a go this weekend on a few scratches on the work van. 👍

[@danielwray8446]

Very useful subject for a video as I'm just trying to get into this as a 'hobbyist' right now myself. However, I'd like to see a little bit more of the 'practical' elements of this to support your narrative. Clearly you know your stuff and you're wide open to new ideas, which is phenomenal. Thanks for taking the time and energy to put these videos up.

[@Captain-Donut]

Great real world advice. Only thing I would like to add. Paint depth gauge is a must. Understanding clear coat thickness is key to good practices. Mark.

[@philmccabe4832]

Another great vid John, well communicated and presented.

[@manxox]

Another brilliant informative show Jon excellent as always

[@Joolz1982]

Cheers really useful. Think I went through my clear coat a bit :(. Was wondering what the Black was. Should have done x3 20 sec busts.

[@mitchellandking]

I've watched a few of your videos tonight and they are excellent, how do I go about sending you a few bits to look at :)

[@ademc8872]

You are a like treasure chest of information. Keep up the excellent videos!!

Hi John, I have a estoril blue bmw as well. How hard did you find the paint is?

[@Audittr2108]

I've wet sanded a few scratches out over the years. Always scares the shit out of me!

[@louishamilton225]

This was a really interesting video , will there be a video on machine sanding? Great video John

[@berczigabor]

5:35 Water is important in wetsanding, because it lifts up and flushes away the already abraded particles. This on one side prevents them from filling in/leveling the scratches that would still need to be abraded, and on the other side also prevents them from clogging up the sandpaper, which would lessen the latter's abrasion power.

[@fluke730]

"Get to the point ya bastard" you killed me John love your channel mate

[@alexmessina3383]

Hi there. Really helpful stuff. thanks. I'm trying for a glass finish on new base and clearcoat, but finding that after 3000 for 5000 grit, I have some stray scratches that coarser than final grits. I'm wondering wheteher I'm overusing my fine grit paper and whether this can end up putting coarser scratches in. Trying to keep it as wet and clean as possible. Can worn paper cause more scratches? Any thoughts on techique welcome. cheers

[@ForensicDetailing]

its impossible to say without eyeballing it or being there. But my number1 thought is cheap grit can do this. I put deep sanding scratches in my paint using halfords grit and it was a nightmare to cut out. make sure you soak out your grit for 15-30 minutes before using it. dont pressure too much.. constantly clean the crap slurry of white off. and constantly clean the grit and black out in a bucket of water. use soap and water as lube. worn paper itself wont cut as well it does not tend to put in deep scratches. bad paper tends to put in deep scratches at least in my experience.

[@ADRIAN-fb9xj]

Good intro music again....Some nice distorted Guitar, then I saw this Scruffy Overweight RockStar playing a Strat in the background and it's Jon! Well done.....You'll have Girls knocking on ya door wanting a Detail, and a Touch Up! A mate of mine who used to be a Builder said, you can hang around the Bar buying Girls drinks and get nowhere. As soon as he put on his Black & White Strat and went on the Stage and joined the Band he was in, he was right.....Every Night.....I always use soap when wet sanding, or now, just a bit of the quality car wash detergent on my paper to act as a lubricant. I was shown that back in 1975 when I was a Boy and first started painting cars in Acrylic Lacquer and trying to get a good High Gloss finish.....40+ years later I just got my first Dual Action Polishers last week and stepped into the 21st Century. A mate of mine has a Black R1200R BMW with some severe scratches on the tank where we think there may have been a Tank Bag fitted. Either side of the fuel cap and in the middle up front. I wet sanded with 2000 and didn't think there was a chance of getting these scratches out, but a healthy clear coat allowed it to happen. 75mm/3" Dual Action was perfect for the job and for the concave areas on the side of the tank.....And, give up the Smokes before they Kill Ya!

[@ForensicDetailing]

scruffy and overweight wtf! i wear designer label and my physique is all muscle. I need to start doing 4k video to do myself justice! ;)

[@derrooky]

After I just finished the wet sanding job on my car today you release that video. You got to be kidding ;) By the way I used these wet sanding stones, like the ones from Menzerna. Not sure if it's the best thing for everyone as they are rocksolid and its really easy to create flat spots if handled incorrect but their ability to hold water inside and release it on the panel is very nice.

[@D992]

If it’s a deep scratch how about mixing colour and clear coat together and filling the scratch just proud? Then use the Festool de nib tool to level the area. Finish off with a light polish. 👍🏼 Cracking video JOHN again ☺️

[@ForensicDetailing]

because the scratch usually looks better than the repair :( if you gonna fix it dibbs you can buzz it back and try and blend it with rattle cans.. but it depends where it is and what car it is.. most times your best getting it done professionally though.. stone chips might be an exception but even those repairs dont look great.

[@philtrottier4442]

Great tutorial!

[@Bull1the1Great]

Really informative and well explained

[@Johnny_Cass]

Thanks for the video. Very helpful.

[@stevegreer1963]

Great video Jon. When you have a Bertha that catches your nail, have you ever tried installing a line of clear coat over the scratch and then wet sanding it flat? It seems that building up the valley of the scratch first might make sense. What are your thoughts?

[@ForensicDetailing]

it doesnt really hide a deep scratch steve.

[@900LoverBass]

Thank you for this video!

[@persianchris2451]

What if I screwed up and over my paint, after doing the sanding etc, I sprayed duplicolor and then a clear coat? I screwed up! Didn't even put primer :(

[@asadullahmuhammad4405]

Very helpful videos thanks

[@indapro1010]

im trying to remove orange peel from my car but i dont feel comfortable wet sanding it bcus the paint is rather soft but was thinking about using carpro denim pads what are your thought on these pads?

[@ForensicDetailing]

Ive not used the carpro denim pads. best bet indapro is to get a test panel from a scrap yard and test using wet sanding and the denim pads. Im almost certain the wet sanding will be more efficient.. you really need to be carefull when wet sanding to make sure you get all the sanding marks out.. definetly stepping down to fresh 3000 grit but also when you compound out the haze you do it in proper suitable lighting.. doing it outside you have little or no chance to know if you have got all the sanding marks out. again you could wet sand quickly and on the surface get decent results or you could do it very slowly. Id proceed with a lot of caution. My 140 has loads of peel but I just leave it in there.

[@piratezippy]

as a metal and paint finisher, i try to hep. wet sanding is so that the paper(grit) doesnt become blocked and the water helps discharge the particles from the paper. the benefit of this is when the grit becomes sticky on the part(panel ) time to rinse and wet again. good idea to keep spraybottle handy rather than sponge. wet sanding starts at grits 450 and above. even 400 i always wet sand. another tip is to add a squirt of fairy liquid to your wet solutions. again this helps with particle discharge. having to wetsand recoat a 50ft teak deck wooden yacht to a 4000 grit surface, a job which took 3 months and alot of shoulder muscle. I looked like an archer after, one shoulder was massive, and other arm was the bicep...lol. that finish was on a resin 2 pack yacht varnish which is much harder than clear coat. that slickness of finish helps with dispersal of contaminates, i.e salt water, etc

[@piratezippy]

And remember clear coat can take up to 90days! to cure. so when touching resprayed parts , you have to allow outgassing to fully happen. most body shops dry out but I wouldnt touch for at least a month

[@jamielarge46]

Thanks for the great information

[@allasterbaier3581]

water is used to flush residue from between sand paper and panel. I was taught to put a bit of washing up liquid in the water to aid lubrication. also listen to your work.... if you hear a squeak or some similar noise there's a good chance its some dirt trapped... stop immediately, rinse paper and wipe panel before re starting.

[@donporter8432]

I have a slight haze i am trying to get rid of. It remains after 1500 and 1000. I am reluctant to try anything more coarse. Should I? Thank you

[@ForensicDetailing]

I can't say without eyeballing. But if there's still texture (not haze) then generally you not gone deep enough m8

[@zaink7037]

One thing which can help to tell if a scratch can be removed or not is by spraying water on it. If the scratch disappears then it can be corrected. If it still appears then it's a deep scratch. I think my fiesta has been polished in the past as I can see holograms / buffing trails plus on the roof there's a small divet which I believe may have been caused by bird poo. I remember watching a video from AMMO NYC and he did say that wet sanding incorrectly will remove the orange peel and give a flat finish which could make that spot stand out.

[@ForensicDetailing]

great points zain thanks

[@mattslater2165]

That's a great tip I forgot to mention. I use wax and grease remover to the same effect.

[@zaink7037]

Matt Slater I think all liquids would do it. The logic is that the liquid fills the scratch and light doesn't bounce back to your eye.

[@mattslater2165]

Ha ha, you're right!

[@zaink7037]

Forensic Detailing Channel I also forgot to say one of my neighbours parked their car on a road and some boy racer hit the side leaving a black line across the side which mostly was paint transfer. I used scratch remover and that managed to remove the paint transfer but the deeper scratches left were still there however the panels looked a lot better. Will also find the video from AMMO NYC

[@alfredlearlyjr1780]

thank you for your time and information,

[@Nagfan09]

Jon,I knew you would have this covered,you have everything, covered fair play!! I have two novice questions if you don't mind. So I have a tiny bit of clear coat peel I wish to repair,it's about 1.5inches round,so wish to wet sand and blend in some proxl clear coat. Most vids I looked at seem to start sanding with 800 grit,would that be overkill do you think??as in the video you mention you use 2000 or 2500,I just want to remove that rough edge where the peel breaks. Also about compound,if you have one that says it removes 1500 sandmarks for example,in theory can you start sanding with 800 and refine by working up to 1500grit with multiple sanding sheets?? or would the compound in question fail to remove the marks because you started with 800 grit?? Thanks as usual!

[@ForensicDetailing]

I would always knock your finish down mate even if a compound says it can remove like 1000-1500 its better to step down to at least 2500 or 3000 before compounding or you get these fine lines that you can only see in the right line. you can start with 800 to knock down an edge but you might find you will go through the paint. problem is you will rough up the painted finish and you wont just be able to clear over it... theres actually videos online doing this, step by step guides. But I am clown when it comes to refinishing. More often than not when I attempt any of this is looks awefull. rattle can clears also shrink out like crazy later on and can go hazy.

[@Nagfan09]

@@ForensicDetailing Thanks a mill for replying Jon..picked up one of those Bissell machines you linked on black friday as well,great little machine that is!!! herself has me doing carpets and all sorts on the downside!

[@K2edg]

As a car painter i like to watch your video's as i'm a bit more hard core :-P ........ If i was removing a scratch as you say i'd use 1200-1500 wet (add a bit of dish soap to the flatting water, it acts like a lube) the difference is i'd then go over an area two to three times the size of the flatted area with a 3000 3m Trizact pad on a Da (wet), what that does is remove the paper scratches and takes the scratch level down to about 5000's (looks almost semi gloss) making buffing back up very easy and you don't have such a pronounced flat area (assuming your not colour sanding the whole car).

[@ForensicDetailing]

k2 check out the new g360 system from farecla. you can go straight from 1500 with the compound. you will be impressed saves on the trizact discs.

[@domenicobizzarro839]

what about using sending disks like Abralon or 3M Trizact with a dual action polisher, John? higher risky but faster job if you use the right tecnique and instruments and good sense, obviously

[@ForensicDetailing]

Never done it m8 just not sure if it's good idea

[@PhilGradwell]

Thanks John. I'm just getting ready to tackle some stone chips and scratches with touch up paint so your account of the different grits is very helpful. I have a Soul Red Mazda 6 which is a beautiful paint but seems to pick up scratches very easily. I bought a paint thickness guage to get a feel for the paint before I started and it's mainly hovering around 100-115 but does down to 75 in some spots. I know it's the full thickness but I find the measurements invaluable and it gave me confidence polishing because I could just take a reading between sets to see how much I was actually taking off. Turns out you can get through Mazda paint pretty quickly if you want. Do you have a guage? I got the CEM DT-156 and I think it's a great tool, and not that expensive at £85. Well not that expensive in detailing land anyway.

[@ForensicDetailing]

winter in the garage killed it but it was some ebay 40 quid thing and I hardly ever used it. will prolly get a dt 156 next or a PD8, not sure though so been sort of holding back... will do something on PDG's at some point.. maybe see if we can feature a few of them.

[@zaink7037]

Phil Gradwell would you say it's essential to have a PTG. Am planning on machine polishing one of my cars before selling it to practice. May do it on my new car but am wondering whether to take it to a detailer to measure the thickness. My new car thankfully doesn't have any deep scratches just micro scratches so hopefully that will come out with menzerna step 2 polish and step 3.

[@PhilGradwell]

Forensic Detailing Channel I feel for you, my garage has killed a few things too. I won't hesitate to lend you mine if you want to check it out one day. Just say the word and I'll pop it in the post.

[@PhilGradwell]

Zain K I don't think it's essential for polishing but I personally wouldn't wet sand without one because my paint is thin and soft and I don't know what the previous owner has done. You can make an educated decision about your correction and play safe and stop often and don't get carried away. A light polish to take out swirls is nothing, but wet sanding is quite different, you can soon and through the clear. When John says the paint is thinner than that fag packet he's not kidding. I was surprised how thin the calibration piece for the guage was. That drives it home. It's not thick like the gloss on your door frame.

[@OraEtLabora0]

@@ForensicDetailing John, which one did you go for? couldn't find any review video of yours...

[@g2j284]

I finally had a go with my polisher today using Scholl S20 just did the roof to start to see how it went. Did everything near copy in your das6pro video then went over with a torch and there were still swirls. Still a beginner just trying to figure out where I went wrong? Definitely going to pick up a scrap bonnet to practice on.

[@MohdRadhwan]

There are many factors why the swirls still there. 1- Your car probably have hard clear coat which means you might want to try aggressive compounds. 2- Your arm movement is moving too fast. Try to slowdown a bit your arm movement speed and see the result. If it too fast it will show no result and if it too slow you could damage your paint. 3- You clear coat surface/polishing pad got dirty. Try claybar your paint and make sure the polishing pad is clean (and no dust). 4- The swirl is deep and you have very hard clear coat. If this is the case, it is a really tiring process to finish it and require more patience than average clear coat.

[@zaink7037]

G2J do update how it comes out. I'm planning on machine polishing my Peugeot for the first time

[@g2j284]

Radhwan Radhwan Radhwan Radhwan Ok, so. My car is a silver Renault not sure of paint toughness on it. So I haven't got a clue about that! The arm speed I did was slow, I didn't go too fast. I only did 4 passes so maybe I did need to do more. The pad was brand new out the packet so wasn't dirty, my car was also clayed and decontaminated before polishing. I think point 4 is correct. I needed to do more passes, acquired some scrap panels today so I'm practicing on them before getting back on my motor. All practice!

[@MohdRadhwan]

Good to hear. Multipasses are good. Start from least aggressive compound to test it out. You can also mix and match compounds and pads. For example, corse cutting pad doesn't always meant to match with aggressive compound because sometimes clear coat material can be weird/funky. Just curious, is it Renault Megane year 2005?

[@g2j284]

Radhwan Yeah I really just aim to practice more with it and go from there. No it's a 2011 Megane. 👍

[@mittbhogaita5235]

“Get to the point you B******” 😂 luv the humour….. with the in-depth knowledge thank you. 🙌🏽

[@D992]

Cheers John 👍🏼

[@larksp]

would have been nice to see you do the wet sanding .. but the information side good as always

[@toddmiller1933]

Looking forward to the orange pill vid. Want to dry on my bmw

[@dashong8912]

Didn't have any rubbing compound or polish so I used a cheap SCRATCH REMOVER LIQUID in the end. Seemed to work just fine in removing the hazing left by my 2000 grit wet sanding. ALL DONE BY HAND. :-)

[@lynnbourg4970]

What model is the BMW and what is that color, its awesome?

[@demar914]

Lynn Bourg , it’s an e46 M3 in Laguna blue. They are hellish hard to find in this color.

[@sanscipher]

I've just bought a new car that has been partially resprayed, visible through orange peel in that particular area (the rest has none), so I should be rather safe to wet sand in terms of thickness in these areas. Would it be possible/sensible to actually apply a new coat of clearcoat to be on the absolute safe side? Any experience with that? The paint itself seems ok. I have no measuring device as I hear the car is almost impossible to measure due to the crazy material mix... Anyways, I hope to see your orange peel removal video soon as it is right down my alley... Thanks & keep up the great work, just found your channel and absolutely love your approach.

[@ForensicDetailing]

short answer would be its prolly best to not sand it out on your new car if you have not done it before... but if you cant live with that peel and want to do it, then go for it.. but just be prepared to have to get this refinished it it goes wrong.. Its not difficult to flatten down the peel, the key thing is to use a block.. you could just use 3000 and take it slow untill you are through the bumps (which doesnt take that much).. most non original paintwork is pretty soft as well so work slow and carefully..

[@sanscipher]

Thanks man... I will give it a shot.

[@pbakai182]

Thanks for all the useful info and tips! I thought I'd leave a small suggestion for the intro to your videos. I think the self-made guitar riffing is great, but please please you need to cut it by at least 10 seconds. I'd even consider just cutting it after the 3rd "bar"(at the 16 second mark) and toss an open chord in there. Short and simple. Many would already consider your videos too long as it is!

[@ForensicDetailing]

Ive spoken to the technical support department and they advise there is a work around for the problem.. simply slide the timeline bar past the intro or to a suitable point in the intro and release the mouse button... seriously though I redo the intros from time to time and each time I try to get them a bit smaller so I can go for even smaller next time. the channel doesnt excel at high quality production.. its me doing the editing and crappy camera work and even the music. theres no team of creative people behind this production.. so for a twat in his garage I actually think the intro piece to the channel is decent enough for you tube...

[@pbakai182]

Haha! Fair enough, sir. Lovin the videos btw, you're great at explaining things in detail.

[@richlee509]

@@ForensicDetailing the intro is great dont change a thing pal

[@astarpery6260]

There are two reasons to do it wet: 1) it makes the process less aggressive. 2) with fine grits, (3000 onwards) the abrasives are so fine they get clogged really quickly so dry isn't an option. The water flushes the clearcoat away as you sand and avoids the problem. 2000 and below is okay dry but anything beyond that you really need to be doing wet. Do a test - try 1500 dry and then 3000 dry; you'll notice loads of dust from the 1500 but hardly see any change in surface from the 3000 and it clogs like mad after one or two swipes. I do really like dry sanding because it can make peel removal easier to spot. It's simply preference and whether you can do it dry depends on grit. The lower the grit the longer you can go for dry. That said, it's important to know that if the paper is designed specifically to be used wet, it won't perform as well dry because they manufacture it in a certain way. As far as I'm aware, wetsanding v dry doesn't make the finish better, but seeing as you can only use high finishing grits wet, that might be why that idea surfaced.

[@alexmessina3383]

I've been going crazy trying to work out why I can't get rid of visible scratch marks from very fine w & d sanding. Admittedly they are only noticeable under led lights and if you are looking for them, but it's not a perfect finish. Here's what I've done. I've sanded clearcoat on hood over a reasonable looking base coat to correct some very noticeable scratches. That part was a success. No prob. But then I've sanded the entire hood in prep for cut and polish. I've block sanded with 2000, 3000, 5000, 7000. The cut and polished with Maguiars Compound and Polish. Still can see fine scratches. My theory is that the chinese sand paper is poor quality and not uniform??? I know my 3000 is good professional grade stuff. Any thought. If I flow coat the hood will it fill scratches??

[@ForensicDetailing]

I was about to say most often this is you putting in deep scratch sanding marks with cheap grit. and your trying to finishing out sanding marks which are deeper than you think. honestly dont use cheap grit and soak your grit for 20 minutes in water before you use it to soften, use lots of lube and dont use too much pressure a lot of times you can just use 2500 and then compound and polish. but I would go back to 2000 then 3000. if you do your 3000 properly it will compound out great. you would use like mirka 5000 on a sander if you need to step down the entire car. hope this helps. avoid cheap grit this has caught me out as well.

[@alexmessina3383]

@@ForensicDetailing Thanks for the advice. Good lesson for channel watches: scimping on paper can mean a whole lot of work for nothing mucjh :-0

[@africansilverback2722]

i am struggling to find the meguiars pads in uk who will ship to me within a few days and the 2500 unigrit meguairs sand paper seems to be out of stock , jon what do you think of these alternatives from clean your car? i dont want to buy the cheap crappy stuff but unsure if these are anywhere near the level of megs flexipad www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-accessories/wet-sanding/flexipads-wet-sanding-backing-pad/prod_1781.html sandpaper p2000-p5000 www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing-accessories/wet-sanding/starcke-mixed-grit-sandpaper/prod_1600.html

[@ForensicDetailing]

ive never used it but Im guessing its good stuff from the description, and CYC would not stock rubbish grit.. so should be fine...

[@africansilverback2722]

cheers jon!! after seeing the megs advertisment on how rubbish conventionalsand paper is i was worried if this cyc paper was upto standard but your right i cant see cyc stocking rubbish grit

[@Harrycowlton]

Just off to raid the piggy bank and get some more goodies! Great video!

[@panagiotiszk]

I'm always wondering why clear coat is so sensitive and not scratch resistant... ??

[@MohdRadhwan]

It is plastic material. Same thing as plastic screen protector on phones but for cars it is slightly thicker. Scratch resistant plastic is called thermoplastic urethane film which most paint protection film (PPF) is used today and it is very expensive (depending on grade).

[@robertubner7570]

Hey I would be very interested in a wax shootout in direct sunlight. This is the biggest problem for Average John, and mobile detailers. thanks.

[@naush777]

at 20:00 - use masking tape to isolate the area, less room for error.

[@kornizz5549]

at 13:06 I would check who lives behind your white board on the wall... lol

[@brunovixes]

hahahhaha its his pet spider

[@brunovixes]

It can add spider webs to the paint, or it can protect the paint with the nylon wax

[@pstasiw]

Can you please help me? So I wet sanded out a scratch to a haze and I did not go through much of a clear coat, no transfer onto the sand paper. And then I polished it manually and waxed it and the haze still remains, so it just looks like I have sanded it!! What do I do?

[@ForensicDetailing]

what grade/grit of sanding paper did you use. What polish did you use to remove the sanding haze. Did you use this polish by hand?? Typically you want to step down to P3000 last. And then you really would use a heavier to medium cutting compound on a machine (most decent one steps will take out 3000 on DA easily though). Im guessing but I suspect you have tried to hand polish to haze out. When you rubbed the polish it looked decent, thats because you filled the haze with the polish product and the carrier a bit like a glaze. As the polish blows out the haze comes back. Thats the most likely scenario. You just need to use a machine and suitable compound to take out the sandind haze.

[@pstasiw]

Forensic Detailing Channel well I did it very fine, I did 3000 then 5000 the 7000. And you’re right, I used some standard polish and it looked good for 5 minutes and the haze returned, so I tried it again but with some T-cut liquid abrasive. So you think I should use the liquid abrasive first with a machine rotator? By hand a waste of time?

[@ForensicDetailing]

@@pstasiw to refine sanding marks by hand its really hard work. you can do it but you gotta keep working the polish for a long time. And a lot of times you will not get all the fine sanding marks out.. very hard to see them unless you have heavy workshop lighting. Yes mate basically you need a machine polisher and just work a 1step compound by machine nice and slow speed, and the sanding marks will come out. Id ditch the T cut as well.

[@pstasiw]

Forensic Detailing Channel ahhh thanks a lot! So what kind of compounds we talking? Have you got a video on them explaining them?

[@ForensicDetailing]

@@pstasiw something like Sonax perfect finish will do the job. you can get a small bottle of it.

[@tr3alme]

Use abralon pad for DA

[@AaronAnonymous]

Any day now we’ll get the video on orange peel. Lol

[@Edl702]

Hello John, thank you for all your videos, they are really helpful. I recently saw a Rupes Training video where they demonstrated sanding and were able to remove heavy swirls and level orange peel with only a few micron loss in paint thickness. I was really intrigued by this, and if it is true, am wondering why more people aren't sanding instead of compounding. I recently bought a heavily swirled car with hard paint and think it might be a lot easier so long as I don't burn too much paint. Would love to see a video on this if you could. Cheers! Video I'm talking about: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p2HQi4N7j9mkaNk

[@jamc666]

🤘🤩🤘

[@obsidiandetails4105]

Looks like Motorgeek links are dead already and sadly their search facility yields no results either.

[@ForensicDetailing]

looks like they stopped it, cheers mojo nightmare to keep all this upto date.. hard to find unigrit paper but a lot of sort of local factor places that are not online stock it.. doesnt have to be meguiars though. CYC also sell decent grit paper.

[@obsidiandetails4105]

Forensic Detailing Channel heritage abrasives sell good quality wet and dry paper but only up to p2500 if I recall correctly www.heritageabrasives.co.uk

[@obsidiandetails4105]

Forensic Detailing Channel www.heritageabrasives.co.uk/product/hermes-wet-and-dry-paper-choice-of-qty-s-grits This link is direct to the product. There is a drop down box to select grade and quantity

[@ForensicDetailing]

no p3000?

[@obsidiandetails4105]

Forensic Detailing Channel sadly not but it is a good retailer of lower grades and under the right conditions p2500 is polishable but p3000 would be preferable. If any other subscriber finds an online retailer of p3000 please post a link as it's quite difficult to find online.

[@donporter8432]

Scary

[@sanfranla9039]

I lost my patience at 4 minutes !! Lmao

[@kalebpatterson3537]

intro shouldnt be that long bud

[@davidblankenship5394]

I say show the work and quit talking bout it to back it up ,people want to see how not be told

[@RipJawsX95]

lol 1 dislike already?? who are you!

[@deepsquat600]

wow ..the intro nearly blew my speakers out ..tone it down some