HOW TO REMOVE Scratches FROM EYE GLASS LENS TIPS and SECRETS

[@boston-strong8887]

This truthful guy is refreshing. I love it when someone comes along and simply says that undeniable remedies and surefire hacks for perfection do not work. And, as far as my scratched, expensive, prescription glasses are concerned, the man is absolutely right. No matter what you do, you cannot "remove" scratches from eyeglasses - PERIOD. You have to buy new ones. Thank you for the honest video.

[@fareehaakbar4615]

I had a really expensive one and my kid just scratched them, I guess I have to buy a new one. The scratch is right in the middle and it’s given me a headache

[@manilanoakes3966]

You can remove the scratches but the effort is not worth it unless they are expensive. The technique is the same as removing scratches from paint on cars. Rub with 1000 grit wet rub sandpaper and soapy water follow it by 2000 grit and 3000 grit then polish with auto buffing compound.

[@TonyCashHouse]

@@manilanoakes3966 agreed, if you have a drill / dremel it makes it much easier. It's not going to be perfect but I was able to restore mine to 90% using wet sanding and a drill with pad attachments.

[@KronicKrew1]

I work in an optical lab and there is no way to remove scratches other than sanding the lens. There is a machine called a generator that the lenses are mounted on. Now, there are lilly pads that are micro abrasive sand paper, that are placed on top of tools. These tools are convex in shape and depending on RX, some will be higher or shorter than others, to give a specified base curve. Then they go on to a second generator that buff the lens with polish and soft lilly pads, but use the same convex tools. You can not go and get sand paper and buffing tools from your local hardware store because if you attempt this, you will change your RX of your glasses by altering the base curve of your lens.

[@TheCatMilton]

+Chris Tabor What if I were to fill the scratches rather than trying to polish them out? I want to attempt to use windshield chip filler on the scratches. I can then get it level at the end with a razor blade after it hardens.

[@KronicKrew1]

+TheCatMilton well, I'm not exactly sure but it does sound a lot like when we apply hard coat/scratch coat to the lenses. when the lenses come of the polishing generator there are always small scratches, not deep just surface scratches. then, once the coating is applied, the scratches are filled. so maybe your idea would work.

[@TheOzzybot]

+Chris Tabor does it cost anything to get the that done at an optitions

[@Royalchess1]

THE UPLOADER DOESN'T SAY IF HIS LENSES ARE COMPOSITE...STILL YOU ARE RIGHT..

[@mattdebree6434]

Chris Tabor what lab chris?

[@ClinicalNovellas]

The theory behind polishing out scratches (whether it is wood, lacquered paint or plastic) is that you need to polish hard enough to remove material down to the depth of the scratch. This is not possible with a few thumb rotations. Mechanical buffing is usually required.

[@strangepsy]

This is the technical comment I was looking for. 😎

[@gergemall]

Correct polish and application

[@Megalomaniakaal]

yeah, the real problem with it is you will obviously be negatively affecting the lens geometry so the sad truth of it is you are better off just getting new lenses anyways.

[@Lgx808]

A car buffer like the one used on paint for auto detailing will do.

[@Lgx808]

My dad used to leave beat up scratched up CDs back to life with the buffer. Like new almost.

[@mickeyflowers]

Scratches are "groves" or "valleys" in the plastic and in order to "fix" a scratch, you either need to fill in the grove or you need to remove material around the scratch. This does 2 things, a) the filling in of the scratch adds material in the grove/valley to the top level around the scratch, b) the removal of material around the scratch will eliminate the grove/valley to the level of the bottom of the scratch. The componds you use are to "remove" the material around the scratch to level it down to the bottom of the grove/valley. They have abrasives that sand the material if they can cut through the material. This is done by using an abrasive compond that will "sand" the plastic and remove material around the scratch. That's how the scratches disappear permanently. If you use too abrasive a compond, then you will make the problem worse by adding more scratches. Then you will need to use less abrasive componds to get the scratches that you put in there out. It's a progressive process. A point to mention, if you have a protective or reflective coating on your lenses, you run the risk of sanding that off and damaging the coating on the lenses. Also, if you remove too much of the plastic you could change your prescription inadvertently. Shape is a factor in your prescription. So, be careful. There isn't a polish that will remove scratches. It all a process that requires several componds and special tools.

[@scotthall7162]

Why are we charged for "scratch coating" when we buy the glasses but the glasses still get scratched and then the solution to get rid of the scratches is to first remove the "scratch coating"? WTF?

[@SeanA88]

It's all a scam. I bought the "scratch proof" ones or whatever they call it and it didn't take long to scratch them up

[@dovesolutions]

No it is not a scam….the coating is there to prevent scratches. With the coating on it allows the glasses to be remade at no charge if they get scratched.

[@lesliesanchez8261]

@@dovesolutions not true. I've worked at 5 different opticals in the past 10 years. The only coatings that come with a warranty are the anti reflective coatings. I've seen so many patients over the years with damaged lenses due to the scratch resistant coating crazing. It's a total waste of money

[@communicationbreakdown256]

It's scratch resistant, not scratch proof.

[@Dancing_siblings7777]

It's not a scratch proof it's just a resistance coat

[@phillace]

i have been using the metal polish method for over twenty years , it works perfectly , for any of the products you used to work , you have to rub a hell of a lot harder than you were.

[@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777]

Yes I notice people are not applying the right amount of pressure and Google search results come up with the lamest 'techniques' saying to rub circular for 10 SECONDS LOL - what a joke that is.

[@williamallen7836]

Preasure isn't going to do anything other the tire you out faster. It's just not the way waxes work. It's not even the way the waxes with micro abrasives work.

[@blackbirdpie217]

This is a hack. If you polish a surface to remove scratches you're essentially wearing the rest of it down to the bottom of the scratch. On a lens this will change the refraction because you're removing the lens material. You will end up with waves and wobbles in the refraction destroying the prescription. Secondly if you're polishing something to a fine polish you DO want to use cotton. Man made microfiber cloth is nowhere near as soft. Polishing compounds used to obtain super fine crystal clear finish is ridiculously fine. An abrasive like toothpaste or baking soda is like taking a chainsaw to your fine furniture to strip the paint. Simply put you cannot take scratches out of a lens the very process ruins the lens so you need a new lens- no alternative.

[@jonyvk6184]

100 prcent right.

[@aleramone23]

Hi, im an optician. glasses are polished with Cerium oxide. it is a very fine powder that is mixed with water to forme a milky liquid. Your method is good. the only problem is that glass is really tough and made by hand it takes considerable time. try scuff it for 30, 40 (or more) minutes and you will notice that the scratches remain, but get polished and kind of blend with the rest of the surface, remember to use a product lightened with water because if you apply too dry you will only remove the polish of the undamaged surface.

[@aleramone23]

People has the fantasy of scratch less magic products. maybe cellphone makers are guilty for offering an exaggerated notion of resistance of the materials. sapphire its too expensive but resist more than glass. glass its pretty resistant to everyday products, but sand its a heavy abrasive, everyday dirt that gets into cleaning clothes scratch it with the pass of the time, there is no magic material, all of them scratch gradually. just be careful to reduce the impact of time. btw: all plastics are extremely easy to scratch. optical polycarbonate gets tiny scratches by just rub it with your fingers.

[@alext9067]

How did you do having them polish the scratch out. I never could get them to do it.

[@aleramone23]

Mark Mullins anti scratch is a laquer productos based on quartz here on South América we remove it from cristals and coat them again. but on US i doubt anybody will bother doing that. they will just try tô sell you another

[@seeamerica1]

So where could a person take their glasses to have scratches removed professionally?

[@alext9067]

seeamerica1 Good question. Don't know.

[@gordbaker896]

Almost ALL of the scratches will be on the Outside, not the Inside. I used toothpaste and kleenex and spent 20-30 min on each lens, rubbing in over lapping circles. It took out the minor haze/tiny scratches and made a big difference.

[@mkern7573]

I wanted to reach out and thank you for all your "experimental" scratch removal theories, and showing the complete process from beginning to the finished product. Believe me, your unfiltered, unedited examples was greatly appreciated...and your sacrifices are honorable. It is very refreshing to see such honesty. God Bless, my friend...and I guess I'm off to the Optometrist myself.

[@LEARNINGCHORDS]

such a kind comment. thanks

[@spectech73]

After 20 years of optical experience, both in the lab and out, I can tell you there is absolutely no way to remove scratches from Ophthalmic lenses.

[@GianniNanni]

thanks but i stil ask Ophthalmic lenses only or other kind of lenses are to be saved from scratches ? ciao

[@alilastname6773]

Ophthalamic means eye, Ophthalmic glasses are eye glasses

[@martinda7446]

That statement is illogical. Question; Can scratches be removed from glass? ..The issue is with depth of aberration and material. Beyond a certain depth it would become a different lens/ unsafe etc after removal of material. Fine marks that cause the light to scatter and leave the image looking like that through a quality street wrapper can be dealt with. I have done it, many have done it with 'as new' results. Put yourself on a desert island with one pair of marked glasses - almost useless as they are - would you still tell yourself, bugger that I'm as good as blind or would you find some rocks and grind up some paste...

[@infraprods]

if an ophthalmic lens can be abraded (i.e. scratched) then the abrasion can be removed with finer abrasives - note that I said finer which refers to particle size, not particle hardness. Now, if the scratch is so deep that you remove too much material and it affects the prescription, that's a different story, but scratches can be removed.

[@new-knowledge8040]

I find the wording hilarious. How in the heck is one supposed to be able to remove a scratch. Picture a hole in a wall that is of a 1 inch diameter, and next expect to be watching a video whose title is, "How to remove holes from walls.". I do recall characters such as Bugs Bunny, as they dragged holes from one location to another, but even they were not able to remove any holes.

[@textank6733]

Leonard; I am so glad you are able to afford new lenses when yours get scratched. There are some people in this world that don't make that kind of money.

[@robynannan7015]

Tex tank - I buy real glass glasses because I am always doing something and scratching the plastic ones. They are a little heavier than the plastic but I have had these about eight years and counting. I actually had to buy new frames because the lenses outlasted them. My problem now is finding out how to get dried paint spatter off of them without scratching the glass.

[@afaqkhan6302]

These tricks are to be Used for emergency not as a permanent solution.

[@jamesdolan4042]

A honest broker, very refreshing

[@GenderSkins]

Yes you can remove the scratch, but what your doing when you actually remove the scratch, is actually grinding the lenses so they are thinner. Which changes not only the thickness, but the focal points, ark and curvature of the lense. Which can be done with jewlers compound, and a jewlers polishing wheel at a high rate of speed. But again not something you'd do with prescription lenses like I wear. Sunglasses, that do nothing but filter uvb rays, yeah you'd be find doing that with.

[@recoveringsoul755]

My sunglasses are also prescription

[@shmatic9665]

Maybe you have to sand them with say 1200 grit first to remove the scratches and then polish. Polishing compounds have fine particles and won't do much if you have deep scratches.

[@mehstgful]

Good result. Even if you were able to remove a deep scratch it would probably result in changing the prescription, that is, changing the curvature of the lens.

[@jerryg50]

Some years ago, I tried using polishing compound to take out scratches in my glasses. I ended up with a lot of glare, and the coatings were removed. They were no longer UV protective! Best to replace the lenses!

[@robertoakley329]

I have a plexiglass wind shield on my bike that's 30 years old. I have used Pledge furniture polish to keep the wind screen clear as the day I bought the bike ! My glasses too, it won't remove the deeper scratches but it will hide 70 % of the deep ones and the fine ones vanish, not for ever but a week or so even with multiple re-cleaning daily. I have tried other brands when I couldn't find Pledge and nothing holds a candle to Pledge. Sometimes a second coat is required but rarely. My Dad has a Sundowner by Beech aircraft, he has paid well over a C note for a "system" of compounds and buffs to "restore" the windows after a couple of decades of sun and fun. I rolled up on my bike to shoot some landings with Dad and he was just finishing two hours of rubbing by hand and was pooped and sweating 9mm bullets, I could tell at a glance the "system" did not hold a candle to the Pledge which I had a can of in my saddle bags! With the front windshield and right side windows still untouched I fetched the Pledge and did the right side windows while Dad cooled off and watched as they became clear as new in about 5 minutes with 2 coats applied. "Whatdayathink Dad" ? He said I'm getting a refund !? I finished the front screen and touched up the left side while he got his refund, we did the pre-flight and spent the afternoon doing "three points" instead of rubbing plexiglass.

[@Njennings42]

I mix 60/40 mink oil and beeswax for most scratches. I've fixed a lot of lenses over the years.

[@pritpalsingh1745]

What is mink oil

[@johnwyman6126]

It's where you squeeze a mink until the oil comes out.

[@helenascheele5922]

It’s gorgeous! A little bit envious I wish we had such nice furniture here in Sweden. Art deco and walnut. It can’t get any better. In Scandinavia we have birch , oak and pine and when iit comes to veneer it is of course it’s teakI

[@phillight2008]

Well, I have coated lenses and here's what worked for me: I have $800 glasses with the expensive Cryzal brand AR coating - and the optical clarity has been getting worse and worse with micro-scratches over the last couple of years. I bought the Armour Etch from Amazon. It wasn't clear from reading online that Armour Etch would remove this particular brand of AR coating, but I took a chance, because I just couldn't see well through them. Well, it worked like a charm. I applied the paste to fronts and backs of the lenses with a Q-tip, set a timer for 5 minutes, and rinsed under hot water. It's like I have a new pair of glasses! It did no damage to the metal frames. There was one little place where I could see a bit of the coating was still there, so I repeated the process once more. I can see! I was very hesitant to try this because I don't have a backup pair, I don't have vision insurance, and I can't really see without my glasses. Bbut they were so bad I just couldn't bear it. I'm so happy I tried this.

[@dsjm123]

We're your lens plastic or glass?

[@phillight2008]

My lenses are plastic, my frames are metal.

[@michaelmoylan2198]

Phil Light Hi Phil, delighted to hear you had success getting scratches off your glasses, I'd like to know if you have glass lenses or plastic ?, it's costing me big time replacing lenses . (plastic) optician says they are lighter and thinner, Thanks , Mike

[@phillight2008]

My lenses are plastic Michael. They had the Cryzal coating. After about 3 months the glasses are still quite nice and clear. The hazy micro scratches were entirely in the Cryzal coating. Removing the anti-reflective coating breathed new life into this pair of glasses. I'm mindful that the lenses are probably more susceptible to scratching now without the coating - which was also, ironically, an anti-scratch coating.

[@mikemurphy7787]

I don't have any scratches on mine but I am like OCD when it comes to smudges and finger prints on mine which are plastic. What would you suggest I use to clean them with? I am steadily cleaning them off but the cleaning towel hardly helps.

[@cherylryan4875]

Most honest demo I have ever seen Thank you😊

[@vocalistpetrovich158]

Guys, please understand you would be never ever *remove* scratches (especially deep scratches) from your plastic or glass lenses without introducing surface distortions that will ruin optical performance of your glasses. The only way of restoration of your lenses is to fill the scratches with "index matching" compound if you would found it. Regular plastic lenses optical index is about from N=1.5 to N=1.74. If you would find index matching compound that would fill a scratch and stay there - you are in luck.

[@tjfreak]

+Vocalist Petrovich It really realistically can't even be done to coated prescription lenses it's like saying you can repair gouges on an LP.

[@CrusadersArmory]

+Vocalist Petrovich Try Hard As Nails clear claw polish. Remove excess with Crest and a great deal of thumb grease after it dries. Definitely not an instant fix!!! Fine hazing and scratches will remain.

[@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777]

got it - for basic magnifiers.. it's so subtle no problems.

[@commonsense6630]

Toothpste will take off the coating and remove scratches. It takes about 30 mins. or more. I recently polished two pair and am wearing one of the pairs as I write this.

[@onenut58]

I have found the exact same results you have. I work construction where plastic lenses are impossible to keep from scratching. I am older and started wearing glasses as a kid back in 1971. They were all glass back then and it took severe abuse to scratch them. All the pastic glasses I have tried over the years scratch easily even though every time you buy them your told this is new coating and better bullshit. Spaying liquid furniture polish and buffing it does fill in the microscratches temporarily. But is good only until the next time you clean them. The last time I was able to buy glass lenses was back around 1995 and I had to pay a lot for them. It is almost impossible to find glass ones today. If you work out doors and break a sweat a lot or play outdoors with dirt bikes etc where dust and such is unavoidable. Your just going to have to buy glasses a lot.

[@Nihlistpunk_CM]

I hate how true this all is :(

[@recoveringsoul755]

I need new ones and need to get glass ones, never had scratching problem with my last pair that was glass

[@jbeargrr]

I had glass lenses for years, and they didn't get scratches like the new ones. My RX is very strong, and the problem with glass lenses is how heavy they are. Mine were not-quite- coke-bottle-bottom thick. I have high index lenses now, so they're thinner. But they are so easily scratched.

[@rp9674]

I don't recommend baking soda it softened large scratches but left my glasses rough and hazy

[@MarioIArguello]

You have to be careful with polishing compounds and dremel tool buffers. If you apply too much pressure you will dull the lens instead of clarifying it. To remove light scratches on plastic lenses that are not coated, there are polishing pads for plexiglass. I used these with good success on plastic lexan and plexiglass sheets, maybe worth trying it on a spare set of test lenses. But best prevention from your glasses getting scratched is a good glass pouch or container after wearing them, and never using your clothing to clean them, and instead get proper lense wipes, towelettes or cleaning cloths.

[@BrucexfromxCanada]

at 8:13, baking soda is good for a lot of things, (and as I am running low, next shopping day I will get a couple more boxes, just not to be chasing the stuff too often.) However... 1) That pair of glasses, aare they plastic, glass or tempered glass? 2) As for the cloth, and the fact that that method did not deal with the more serious scratches, I think I will try the idea later with a Dremel 400 in lowest speed and a buffing felt concentrated on some bnad scratches where I have nothing to lose, especially as I am not going to do that on an area of the glasses that is not badly scratched anyway. Now I wouldn't necessarily recommend anyone just try this. 1) I have 50 years exposure to technology, including a lot of hand on mechanical stuff, even though I am an electronic tech. 2) When I use the Dremel 4000, I will fasten it stationery in a custom made yoke which fits in the base of a Pana-Vise which in turn is solidly anchored. (Panavise is located in Reno NV, and Dremel is now owned by Bosch and much of their stuff is made in Mexico, but the head office is in the U.S.). 3) The direction of thr rubbing contact of the felt pad in relation to the scratches will likely make a significant difference, but a Dremel as such is not reversible. (I have on I have taken apart and rewired internally to be reversible in the future, but I have not yet had the time to finish designing and building the external controller I need to make that work. This kind of controller is commonplace in industry and I have worked servicing them on a much larger scale in my working years, so this is not the big challenge for me it might otherwise be. Also from the ground up, it will be designed to be DIY repairable, otherwise, even retired the effort would not be worth the time. Hence I might look to a "brighter day" with my glasses!

[@5150roc]

Keep in mind that these products can possibly create a reaction to your eyes. Even if you think you have removed the bulk of the product… sweat might reactivate the chemicals in the product and cause eye irritation.

[@wolfgang169]

I've been wearing glasses since I was a child and just realized none of the optometrists I received my glasses from over the years ever offered me a copy of my prescription information. Pisses me off because now I need to make an entire appointment just so I can get my prescription numbers. That way I can start buying new glasses online whenever I want/need a fresh pair.

[@LEARNINGCHORDS]

in the USA that is your info and they need to provide it to you.. it is your medical record and you don't need an appt. call eye dr and tell them you want to come in and have your rx written on paper.. if they refuse, find another dR

[@dianneclark9098]

If it's just the protective coating that is scratched, some of these may work, but a glass technician (while replacing a silicon pad) put two deep gouges in my lenses themselves, and nothing but regrinding will take these kind of scratches out.

[@francoamerican4632]

I tried regrinding mine with my bench grinder and the outcome wasn't good.

[@bjdenil]

Cerium Oxide is what most pros use to polish glass and take out minor scratches but they use buffing wheals... It takes a lot of rubbing to buff out scratches and so you need to do it for a decent period of time to accomplish what they do more quickly with the felt wheels...

[@bjdenil]

the deeper the scratch the more material you need to remove... also this can change the prescription...

[@Flashahol]

You cannot "remove" a scratch. A scratch is a depression (read microscopic canyon) on the surface of the lens. You can only "grind" (read polish) the rest of the surface down to the same level as the bottom of the scratch, which means you are removing a lot of material and most likely deforming the lens surface by doing this - especially if you do it by hand. This implies that you are most likely changing the "strength", or Rx factor of your glass lenses and/or creating an uneven surface, which will cause deformities in your lenses. To top that off, if you have any coating treatment on your glasses, like anti-reflective and water repellent, you are first of all removing those coatings and will not benefit from those anymore. Treat your glasses right in the first place and always rinse your lenses under running water, then use a microfiber cloth everytime you clean them and they will last much longer without scratches. If you like to do activities where hard materials fly off some surface (grinding metal, for instance), wear protective glasses over you prescription glasses to preserve your expensive prescription ones. Regular prescription glasses are not made for eye protection from foreign material anyways.

[@krisseybe]

Flashahol, I have safety glasses for work, and regular glasses at home. I also have 3 kids. On vacation, they were knocked off the nightstand and stepped on, so I had to go back to an old pair until I can get new ones. My old pair have been through 3 toddlers. No big deep scratches, but if any of those methods even remotely worked... it would help me get through the next 3 weeks or so.

[@mgp127]

Krissey Gallagher dam,n i was waiting for a punchline, how u fixed it, all that reading was for nothing

[@TerriblyTardy]

Someones not a parent..

[@davcar872]

Meguiars PlastX, without a doubt! There is nothing that can remove gouged scratches without altering the prescription of the lens, but for regular swirl marks, minor scratches, and haze buildup due to everyday wiping and cleaning, nothing beats PlastX. I had very expensive progressive lenses with a heavy haze and swirl marks that were becoming bothersome to wear so I made an appointment for new lenses. I've heard of PlastX before but didn't want to chance ruining my lenses. Right before my appointment, I tried the PlastX, and to my surprise, it worked enough to cancel my appointment. I simply followed the directions and repeated it for a few days, until most of the haze and swirl scratches were gone.

[@roncf1]

Has anyone thought that is you use abrasive on your glasses to remove part of the glass it will change the prescription of the lens?

[@cameranmanner4701]

reducing the thickness of the lens does not change the precsription. All lenses start off as thick pucks with the precription set ie -1.25. The lens is shaped and thickness is removed keeping the original prescription intact. If changing the thickness of the lens changes prescription, have a look at progressive (bi-focal) lenses as they are sometimes tapered.

[@Jhu100]

I have plastic lens. And the only thing that came close to helping me remove the scratches and coating was putting them in boiling water for a good while and I also used cooktop cleaner that I had laying around the house that cleans tuff stains from electric stoves.

[@ymrbleav9577]

Good sense of humor for disappointing results. Thanks for sharing!!!

[@stevewarren3051]

Eastwood sells a plastic polishing compound formulated to remove scratches from plastic. It works on glasses. You have to use a Dremel with a soft buffing wheel to get the deeps scratches out. You have to be careful if you use the Dremel. If you buff too hard, you can actually change the prescription by removing too much plastic from the lens. Glasses are plural because there are two lenses, not one.

[@usernamemykel]

Monocles aren't plural, but then again, they don't smell like Emu's.

[@m.micola6181]

I once saw a demonstration of how to clean scratches off the crystal lens of a watch. Jewelers polish was used with a small buffer at high speed on a small crafter tool.. it worked! !

[@mike_van_in]

Appearance is not too greatly affected by optical distortion when the watch face is only millimeters away. Eyes, on the other hand ...

[@d34dly0101]

Mike Micola it's called cerium or something like that I worked in a glass factory with a buffing wheel

[@seniorfrog7391]

Mason it's cerium oxide to be specific !! It is used to polish glass !! But you need high speed to get it to work on huge scratches like he is trying to fix !!

[@d34dly0101]

Also jewelers rouge ???

[@directdemocracy1]

I worked as a watchmakers apprentice when I left school (50 yrs ago) and was given the job of polishing badly scratched watch lenses with Brasso (usually plastic lenses ) and it worked . They would charge the customer for a new glass . It took quite a few minutes not a cursory minute or two like this chap . And GLASS will be very difficult without a machine buffer .

[@alissalenoir1519]

its a "pair of glasses" because of the 2 glass lenses. a pair... of glasses.. :D lol Just trying to have some humor here.. Great video, and yes I know its a older video. But still. Great video. Also just to inform you, those glasses DO have coatings.. Specially, since you WAXED them.. Wax,. adds a coating. Try some 2,000 grit sandpaper, on them. This will cause them to become super foggy from removing the coating on them and sanding off a layer of glass, but dont fear.. Then use that car wax to recoat them, and remove the fog. Works AMAZING! Removed pretty deep scratches from my glasses.

[@aspencauchi8553]

Regardless of the outcome.Why oh why did he polish on the inside with the most pressure from his thumb. The scratches are on the outside. :/

[@user-uj6sc7ls9y]

Absolutely. My friend and I were asking the same thing.

[@Nanaz4Mz]

Aspen Cauchi I agree but not only that, he didn’t even let the car wax dry before trying to buff it out like you would on a car and then buff it out. Smh 🤦‍♀️

[@HouseGuide]

I remember in school shop class we used to get scratches out of plastics by using a buffer which was an electric turning wheel with some kind of pad on it. I wonder if something similar could not be done with glasses. Come to think of it now deep in my memory, I think someone in the class did use it on his glasses but I don't remember what the outcome was.

[@wyattsexton7083]

Etching creme works getting rid of UV Coating or any coating you have on your glasses and it clears up the glasses. Helps make your glasses clear again - at least helps last a bit longer.

[@juliencooper177]

I have successfully removed scratches from plastic lenses with removing some scratch resistant coating types and they look clear and new, also easier to do again with no coating remaining when needing to do in the future. But some lenses are harder to do and may need a different polish to make the best results of it. More on coatings below. And some lenses have a coating of tint rather than a through and through tint, that layer becomes removed and lenses are without that colour after as with the scratch resistant coating removed. It takes a lot of careful work and caution to avoid changing the contour shape. That's difficult with bifocals especially the lined bifocals because the shape will change too much in attempt to do a thorough or good enough job. I don't recommend attempting this without the machine and or professional person doing it with lines. Some scratch resistant coating types won't come off nicely, that wrecks the lens even if they are without bifocal lines. I have put a clothes button with indented shape below the perfectly round rim onto something with strong string, placed fine sandpaper and then good cloth over that and buffed over and over until it smoothed out the whole lense to eat down to the scratch depth. That bottom seems to help in keeping the contour of the lens. And I used everything from the finest sandpaper to Silvo and Brasso polishes until done. But my hands were tired before I was done if I kept at it until satisfied, may need to get a break from it before completing the task. It's a great fix for plastic lenses if it works and new lenses are too expensive for the budget. I am looking to do glass lenses now, have kind of succeeded years ago in that with some minor wobbly remnants but clear as new. The lenses I have now have definitely a few scratches in each and I hope to find a method to make them evenly smooth without the wobbly remnants or shape changes. These are the lined bifocals which I can see the lines but not feel them. Should work out fine if I can get the right method to skim off a nice layer to the same shape. Maybe I'll try by professional person's work rather than my own for those unless I can see a real DIY method that works proven to me. These are nice lenses, want to keep for sure. The success in this may depend on if the lenses were heat treated or not. A professional person might be able to figure that out by scratching at the edge to see if it chips, just thinking on that but may be wrong. Either way on these plastic and glass lenses, I really think it will always take time and effort especially by hand unless there is a DIY lens buffing tool to speed up the process. I have tried waxes and polishes which are meant to coat and fill in. Even tried a special coating polish meant for Rx glasses, almost like putting on nail polish but different process. Nothing worked, it does a little to smooth the rough and white look of the scratch but comes off easily. And the special polish gave wobbly results over the entire lens but came off with a really good cleaning, that was a waste of my money since unlike other waxes and polishes it had just one job to do and I couldn't find any good result in that. And, why do people call it glasses, they, them and a pair when it is just one complete thing? Maybe because there are two lenses in the frame. I think a monocular is in voiced and written in singular only, though I tend to call my glasses 'it', 'one' or 'that' when talking despite calling them "glasses" even so. Great question though. A commenter asked why get scratch resistant coatings if they just scratch up anyhow. It's true, somehow it may help for a while but before the usual time to change lenses, they are scratched badly as without this. And polishing that off is more difficult, it won't polish shiny until that coating is evenly removed which adds to the need for skill of keeping the shape all the way. There's also a newer (I think) coating which peels and blisters but won't just all come off even so, usually damaging the edges of the lens surface. I think it's more of a film layer than a dip process kind of thing. That makes the lenses look like they got really dirty and the owner simply wiped more in the middle for a few seconds to clean them and it can collect dark dirt along side adding that messy haze to the lens. For cleaning lenses, I use soap with finger tips and sometimes a soft bristle brush for the edges, makes them as clear as they'll be and like new (without an actual polishing of scratches considered here). A tooth brush may be too hard, but there are finer bristled dental care products and art products which won't scratch and will remove dirt from around the frame and edges. That kind of bristle in a thin or tiny brush can also work for cleaning up behind the nose pads. Keeping dirt out of those areas helps to prevent grime from going on the lenses when giving them a dry wipe and makes them look fantastic. For corrosion resistance on metal frames, take apart new glasses and apply a thin coat of clear nail polish to frame, let dry and reassemble, that might help extend the new look and feel. However, paying so much for frames at an optical dispenser shop should mean no corrosion ever. Buy stainless steel for best results, they may tarnish and get scratches and look nicer with some Brasso polishing if not the best but normally they'll look new always and stainless steel won't hurt the cheeks with scratching the skin. I think it's time people made a huge fuss about expensive glasses frames which are multi layers of base metal and other metals and corrode fast. Same with wrist watches, I don't know the idea of making a watch with ability to change batteries and it looks awful, hurts and even has the sealing edges corrode out before the original battery dies. Jewelry too, should be only singular good metals and stay nice or only tarnish without actually disintegrating. Stainless steel, silver, brass, copper and gold without "gold fill" or plating are my choices for all of the above items. And yes, you can buy stainless steel glasses frames for really cheap, they come as sunglasses and can have new Rx lenses put into them. You just need to know what to look for and hope something of your style choice will be there or keep searching. I got one with blue lenses for $12 on sale for $6 and that actually fit nicely around my preexisting Rx lenses.

[@BottomTick]

Baking soda absolutely works, within reason. I just spent 30 minutes polishing the microscopic scratches from my glasses using baking soda, my thumb and fingers. The difference is quite amazing. I mixed a baking soda and water paste, coated the lenses with it, pinched the glasses between my thumb and finger and rubbed vigorously for 15 or 20 minutes on each lens; stopping every 5 or so minutes to rinse and inspect. Hold expectations in check. Lightly rubbing any of the compounds mentioned in the video for only a minute or two isn't going to do much of anything. It takes a bit of time and effort. Nothing mentioned here will remove a scratch deep enough that you can feel it with a thumb nail. If it did, you would have ground off enough material to change the focus of the glasses.

[@tanioraaura1274]

Thanks, mate,. I am convinced now. Put up with the scratches for now

[@mikewhite3123]

Thinking of just trying my Mcguire's headlight stuff on an old pair, then if it works I'll do it on my Oakley eyeglasses lol

[@debbieocampo3795]

Did it work?

[@hafeexius]

@@debbieocampo3795 he's still buffing out the scratches.

[@martinlang9615]

I have used the Turtle Wax Headlight cleaner system for: headlight plastics, led light bar clear plastic, fake chrome mirror surrounds and plastic weathershields. I have not tried it on anything glass yet, but will use it on a windscreen that is pretty bad with peppered stone pitting sometime. This system supplies everything you need for the most difficult of jobs. I was surprised how my 10 year old plastic 4x4 headlights turned out as it had a lot of stone pitting. It did not get the deep ones out...which is not surprising as these cut into the plastic lense deep. 98% of the rest were taken out. It did take A LOT of time and elbow greese. It was worth it. Now I should not have such a big job to do next time. It really is amazing how good this system works. By the way Maguires "Scratch X" in a tube is worth its weight in Gold for various minor car scratches and is really easy and quick to use. It comes in a tube so never dries. It is a very good product.

[@zapyawhereithurts]

I used the McGuire headlight polishing kit after watching Scotty Kilmer’s video. It removed the haze and my headlights look brand new. I hadn’t thought about using it on my glasses.

[@jaxv94]

in order to get rid of those scratches, you'll have to sand it down with high grit sand paper followed by compound, then polish , but in the process it will change the prescribed vision for your eyes, you might as well get new lenses.

[@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777]

some people using for basic magnifying glasses..so RX is not an issue.

[@citizen127at]

One of the tricks to this kind of thing is to define what you're trying to do. What are you actually trying to remove and what are you trying to remove it from? Toothpaste, dry baking soda, and polishing compounds made for paint are good at removing relatively soft deposits like water spots or the waxy substances from your skin, and they can polish polymer lenses and coatings somewhat, but they'll never do anything to glass under typical cleaning conditions. They're way too soft. There are some polishing compounds made specifically for glass that can take the hard edges off of scratches in glass to make them less visible, but this takes a long time, and probably power tools. There are some surface coatings that are made to reduce the visibility of scratches in glass, but car wax ain't it. Car wax is made to protect and polish paint. Also, if you don't allow enough time for wax to harden after application, you'll just wipe it off while you think you're polishing. The wood in paper towels alone will never scratch bare glass under normal human cleaning conditions. It can scratch the polymer coatings that are on some glass. It can scratch polymer lenses. It can leave streaks on glass because it's made of relatively soft gooey stuff. If there are particles of sand stuck in the paper towel, the sand will scratch glass, but just wood alone will never scratch bare glass under normal household conditions. Glass is about 360 times harder than oak, there's no chance. I guess some of the confusion, when it comes to polishing, comes from the fact that glass, paint, and other polymers are shiny, so some people assume that polishing them is similar. On a molecular level, glass bears almost zero similarity to polymers.

[@matthewgodson278]

I got new eye glasses cause I lost a lease on my older frame. just popped out and I had no idea where it was. so anyways, after I got a new exam and glasses I found the lease to my old glasses! so I decided to put a pinch of super glue on the old pair to hold the lease in and keep the glasses for backup. somehow! dammit, in the process I got super glue on both lenses of my new glasses! I was pissed. I figured acetone would melt the plastic lenses, but then I figured I can't ruin them anymore so I decided to try it. and WOW! PERFECT like nothing ever happened.

[@ThePattibeth]

You lost a lease ?????

[@thepixinator2592]

@Tony Jaksn UMMM.... lens

[@7thLeader]

I want to remove scratches in my glass but it has coating that prevents blue light from passing through so I only use fiber cloth with just only water or just send it back to the store where I bought it for lens replacement.

[@Jmadrid530]

When applying wax you should let it dry before removing it...

[@howinteresting2]

Don't we need to distinguish between hard scratches or chips (essentially not removable but possibly fillable), and light abrasions either on the anti-reflective coating only, or actually on the lens acrylic surface? You might want to remove the coating (research this elsewhere) or buff the acrylic lens to remove slight abrasions due to normal handling, dropping, contact with other things in pockets etc. Vision is usually blurred due to abrasion patch in line of sight only so concentrate on that area with a light polishing (with methods as shown or jewellers rouge (meant for harder materials). You may have to live with scratches / indentations. Many annoying blurred areas are due to the delicate and grease-retaining anti-reflective coating, which you can specify not to have when you buy the glasses if you don't mind any nuisance reflections.

[@777hathor]

Thanks for doing this demo, it has saved me a lot of time.

[@777hathor]

Years ago in Aussie we could go into the place we bought the glasses and they would remove the scratches for free. But now they say it's not possible. Makes me so mad because I know they just want me to buy a new pair. Grrrr 🤓😖

[@happydeux2254]

What do you think happens to glass when it's scratched and polished? I hear what you say about coatings but no matter how you spin it, polishing is changing the surface and therefore changing how light passes through it compared to it's original state. The same thing happens with glass if you use a compound that is hard enough to do it and you work at it for long enough. Polish takes a lot longer to work on such a hard material, check out the comment below, he explains it.nicely.

[@alext9067]

Lenses aren't made from anything mystical. It's either polycarbonate or acrylic. Both can be polished easily. Yes you change the Rx slightly, but the Rx is not that accurate to begin with. There are many abrasive products on the market now. 3M makes something called Micro Mesh. Extremely fine grit number and then you have all the polishes. You can also use wax to fill the scratches, but i like the polishing route.

[@martinda7446]

Agree, the coating makes the acrylic scratch resistant . Once that is removed it is liable to constant little scratches - the eye is much more sensitive to those scratches than a little extra distortion which I guess would be only a part of one degree if you don't rub too hard. So just lightly polish every week or two, remove a few atoms and you could do that for years, or until you tread on them and make a deep scratch, which would finish em.

[@martinda7446]

PS Glass is much harder, and no, paper will not scratch it as suggested in video, glass just takes more time to polish, its hard work. Also glass is prone to deep scratching depending on type of glass, only fine marks should be polished out, any deep marks and just as with plastic/acrylic, they are toast. So asses lens for severity of fine surface marks and polish away. Is this chap in the employ of the glass makers?

[@evelincolon3349]

Well I know this video was done a long time ago, however I think I found a solution. I used some uv resin. First I cleaned and dried the lenses thoroughly. then with a face cotton I put some alcohol and I dry buffed it with a clean dry cotton. Then I squirt a safe amount and swirled it around until covered, absorb excess off the frame with the corner of paper towel, very gently. Then cured under the uv light. And it worked.

[@LEARNINGCHORDS]

I tried that. I squirt a safe amount and swirled it around

[@tubastuff]

For light scratches in glass (not deep enough to snag a fingernail), you *can* use cerium oxide paste. However for deep scratches, the glasses are probably toast.

[@jds1906]

cerium oxide is for real glass Not plastic, the automotive industry has used CO since the 50's I believe

[@IxMADMANxl]

You need to use 1200 grit sandpaper with water and polish it with polishing compound and then use 3000 grit sandpaper and then polish again..or use lenses in a buffing wheel

[@youtopia5868]

And finally you have to throw it in the trash. I tried countless methods but none of them worked. It destroys the real number of the glasses that your doctor has detected with the device.

[@RebelAngelkiller62]

It would work if you did it right. I used to work in a fiberglass company and my job was to remove (fill in) scratches from molds and finished products, both of which they expected to be like glass when done. When you put compound on and buff it out, you repeat the process over and over again to put layers down. To get scratches out of molds for example it took dozens of times to get the scratches out depending on how deep they were. BUT you can do it.

[@josephvirag8718]

Micro meshing, buddy did it at the airport and it worked. No idea if it changed the prescription though. Micro meshing is used to remove small scratches from airplane windows.

[@danajones6699]

it makes me cry when i cant see shit, and today my frames kicked the buck, damn damn

[@kenrolltideAlabama]

I agree it is the worst when they brake. I try and always keep my old glasses or frames so I can try to fix my glasses temporarily untile I can get new ones.

[@steamboatwillie8517]

@@kenrolltideAlabama super glue bits of lollypop wood to bridge the joint, or wrap metal ones in wire, then mass solder. Overpaying to suit. They may come out looking a bit ' unusual' but they're good enough for driving and watching the TV etc. They'll certainly put you on till you've replaced them ( or saved up enough to replace them!!)

[@heragr2912]

I recently encountered the same problem - within 24 hrs my new eyeglasses were scratched and I was told it was because of microfiber cloth I was using, the one you are using here. I found it hard to believe, since the scratch was in only one area and not the whole lens.

[@NASTY_KANASTA_]

i love the facts. you are as real as it can be. thanks

[@rnk482]

Cerium oxide and/or toothpaste will work for small scratches. Big scratches cannot be polished away without changing the lens shape and, in turn, your prescription. The problem you're having is with your patience level. It takes several hours of polishing to get scratches out. Expecting anything to work after polishing for 5 minutes, is like rubbing 120 grit sandpaper on an oak tree for 5 minutes and concluding that sandpaper won't make wood smooth.

[@alexissmall34]

these items are best for plastic lenses not glass. plus u have to spend at least 2 minutes buffing n rubbing the scratches.

[@AmazingRebel23]

2 minutes is really no time at all compared to a 2 week wait to get new glasses

[@allwheeldrive]

It can literally take 20-30 minutes of rubbing to see any difference - and ONLY for plastic. Glass is not fixable. Period.

[@michaelsimkin]

I used Armour Etch and it did work fine.

[@flayer138]

So I was removing the anti-relfective coating (which was failing) on my glasses with some stuff called Armour etch and it removed the coating but left the lenses scratched to hell. I remember using this stuff called polywatch to removed a scratch on my oculus rift lenses which worked well, so I thought I would give it a try on my scratched to hell glasses. I put 3 lines of polywatch on both sides of the lense and polished for 2 minutes up and down, side to side for both sides with a microfiber cloth. Sure enough after a good cleaning they look crystal clear and I can see through them without a problem.

[@dresden67]

Saved me from buying more junk on Amazon.. thanks gotta get a new pair of 👍

[@arwengaladriel149]

Nice post. And saves us the effort of trying all these relatively useless "tricks". I looked into the similar issue of fixing yellowed headlight lenses and have successfully fixed those. This involves (1) fine sanding and (2) polishing the lenses then (3) coating with clear polyurethane. Makes me wonder if a polyurethane coating might work for eyeglasses. Headlights are usually plastic of course so easier to polish. Just clean your old glasses and skip to step (3); spray-coat with clear poly. I know it does a good job of filling small scratches and it is quite durable Might be worth a try for prom;ongoing useful life of an old pair. They can be pretty pricy to replace. Polyurethane, like anything that seems to really work, is pretty toxic so remember to use a mask and plenty of ventilation.

[@epxclusive]

Thanks for testing all the things. I hope to find something.

[@adelaesquivel5046]

I know this video was posted a few years ago but I was looking on you tube to help reduce scratches on my eyewear. I then came across your channel bc I also used baking soda and water , toothpaste and water , and finally all three together. None of them worked . I had a deep scratch on my glasses and saw that you used the turtle wax rubbing compound I however found some for the medium to heavy on my glasses it took a couple of tries but it did work great the scratch isn't as bad as it was before . I can actually wear them again. I think you should give the rubbing compound another try but I wet the microfiber cloth and put some of the wax on it then rubbed it back and forth for a good while until a white film. I then buffed it out with a eye glass cloth and then wiped with a cotton swab of alcohol. And repeated the process a few more times it took a while bc of the scratch but I did notice the result was working after a while. I do hope this works out for you or someone else who reads this thanks. :)

[@donaldmartin3057]

I had light scratches and lots of rough spots from super glue ... which got on the lense while glueing the steel frame after the screw stripped out. These are real glass, not plastic. I think superglue destroys plastic lenses (had that happen before). I used arm & hammer advance white toothpaste w/ baking soda already in it. Worked like a charm. Like the optician below says... you really have to scrub for a long while. There was one deeper scratch, but just like the optician said - the toothpaste blended it in so it's really not noticible while wearing the glasses. I used a cotton swap and I pushed down really hard ... scrubbed for 20 minutes at least.

[@josephbellido5508]

rubbing compound does work. remember that you need friction to remove the scratches. so it's better to remove the lens so you can use more pressure if your doing it by hand. or use a dremel for high speed.

[@allwheeldrive]

NO DREMEL! Way too fast, and will create more damage.

[@galemonterio5261]

How about trying headlight restorative kit. Worth a try...

[@MaryOKC]

We’re you wearing your glasses while doing this review? I can see the difference with each puffing...it’s not perfect but it was better. ☺️

[@tsiporagaled4287]

Hi there , If you use the little small hand held in graver that operates with batteries or electric,who’d a little buffer wheel and use any of the compound you used and see a good result

[@RamonPreston]

My father always used toothpaste and it does work but it requires a lot of polishing. My father would polish a pair of glasses ALL NIGHT to remove scratches. Not something most people would do. (Toothpaste is the finest (opposite of coarsest) rubbing compound in the world.)

[@FusionDeveloper]

I left this comment before watching the whole video. I don't have time to watch it all now I'll have to watch it later. Here's what I typed when I was watching the beginning of the video... Toothpaste has sand in it which is listed as hydrated silica. I don't recommend rubbing sand on glass. Baking soda and water is supposed to be far less abrasive than sand, but I'm not sure what to try. Somebody did a test with all these different toothpastes on a set of teeth and some of them had so much sand in them that they destroyed the teeth.

[@leahmarks7867]

Re: your question... they are called a "pair of glasses" because they are just that, a pair... TWO pieces of glass (or a pair of lenses), which are held in place by their frames.

[@endemion06463]

As far as I know it's a choice when buying glasses whether you get plastics or actual glass lenses. Although glass lenses are getting rarer as they are heavier.

[@aussieparadise]

In the old days, glass is all they were made of so you are correct, it is a pair of glasses held in place by a frame. Nowadays as you can get many types of lenses, its still generally called a pair of glasses.

[@christiancampbell7621]

Some people can’t afford a new pair of glasses

[@mjinme]

Can you explain "pair of underwear," to me?

[@robertdixon6536]

If polycarbonate, polywatch and microfiber cloth for light to moderate blemishes

[@davidrivera8103]

like this video cause u just proved it to all about removing scratches from lenses. I have been in the optical manufacturing business for 15yrs and people have this thinking we are just taking their money. the truth about scratches is like u explained about the wooden table with a scratch. what happens though u have to Fine or Sand the table surface down to smooth out the scratch. Then polish it. The same process is done with lenses. Except it's a whole lot easier by making a new pair. because the work isn't guaranteed and a waste of time. why? there are many variables that govern a prescription lens. one of them being thickness. if a lens is sanded or fined down to thin then the rx will change. also you have to have a equal amount of pressure to get the whole surface of the lens evenly. I'm not saying it isn't doable for minor scratches. but keep in mind it still won't be worth the time. Good Job on the video.

[@GaryKildall]

I have a special coating like gorilla glass but it can scratch although I don't notice them. Good video from probably uncoated lenses I think.

[@tizme2311]

Great video, just confirming my decision t buy 2 sets of glasses 1 for close up and 1 for long vision. Regarding the existing ones, will use them doing diy, they are already scratched and prescription needs updating. But your vid was very useful.

[@bonifaciocunanan6917]

I will try this with my old glasses.

[@jcdaloia144]

Did it work?

[@グリッチ-i8y]

JC Daloia he’s still at it. 5 years later.

[@wansh013]

i'm not sure about this, but anything that needs to be polished takes more than 3-5 minutes of polishing to get any effect. Be it polishing metals or even other surfaces

[@phillight2008]

This is a case where the comments are more helpful than the original video. None of these tests are valid because he never applied them to his lens material. He tested them only on the AR coating, which is considerably harder than the underlying plastic lens material. Had he removed the coating first, some of these tests might have supplied useful data. He states “Armor etch is supposed to scrape off the coating” and “I’m not going to buy Armour Etch just to see that fail.” Armour Etch does not mechanically “scrape off the coating”. It removes the anti-scratch/anti-reflective coating by a chemical reaction. No elbow grease required. These coatings are harder than the underlying plastic lens material. Most of his scratches appear to be in the coating and, once removed, the lenses will have far fewer visible scratches. Once the harder coating is removed, and if deeper scratches have penetrated the thickness of the coating, mild abrasives like toothpaste can indeed polish out some fine scratches that haze the softer plastic lenses. It takes considerable time to hand-polish plastic lenses - far more than he demonstrates with any of his tests. I know this because I have done it myself. At least an hour per lens in my case. But my lenses are now crystal clear with no noticeable change in prescription. The video poster doesn’t appear to know if his lenses are made of plastic or glass (they appear to be plastic), doesn’t understand relative hardness of abrasives based on his comment “Wood scratches glass”. It doesn’t, but it WILL scratch your PLASTIC lenses, so don’t use paper towels to clean eyeglasses. He also doesn’t know if he purchased them with or without a coating (it appears he did). “Wax or Brasso will fill in the scratches” - These are quite different products. Brasso is an abrasive (far too coarse for eyeglasses) and the other (the wax) could indeed possibly fill in some scratches. “Toothpaste didn’t work, polishing compound didn’t work, and baking soda didn’t work…” - again, none of these tests were valid because he never touched his lenses. He only touched the harder AR coating.

[@jakestar77]

Phil Light most of what you’re saying is correct, but he does not have AR coating on his lenses. And if they’re plastic and not polycarbonate, he probably doesn’t have any coatings on it. Plastic lenses don’t come standard with a scratch coating like polycarbonate does.

[@alexisambovich2290]

Thickness and curve of the lens is how the power is achieved. So "buffing" or grinding down the surface of a lens is absolutely NOT a thing. If you have scratches in your lenses you must get new lenses. If you continually have this issue there are some things you can do to avoid this. First.. do not put anti reflective coatings on your lenses if you are using your glasses in a manner that would cover your lenses with abrasive dust. dirt or other residues that can damage the coatings. I don't care how fancy an anti-reflective coating they offer you.. IT CAN SCRATCH. Secondly while there are no scratch proof lenses, there are lenses and coatings you can apply to make your lens surface more durable. First.. lens material. Glass is the most scratch resistant however again, if you are using your glasses say for wood working and any kind of situation where a projectile may hit your lenses than glass can shatter. So be careful.... best to use safety glasses in this situation. Safety glasses are made of durable polycarbonate lenses which can also be used for regular use spectacles. As for cleaning.. only use lens approved solutions without alcohol. Dish soap and water works beautifully. One analogy I have used in my 20 years as an optician is to think of the surface of your lenses just like the paint on your car. If you wouldn't clean your car that way then don't do it to your lenses... example of this would be do not wipe dust or sand dirt without rinsing your lenses first. As for coatings you can add.. you can add scratch resistant coating to regular plastic lenses (polycarbonate lenses automatically come with this coating). The important thing to remember; THERE IS NO SCRATCH PROOF LENS OR COATING. PERIOD. Make sure if the optical where you are purchasing your glasses offers a warranty (some will charge a minimal fee for this warranty). If you are ordering expensive lenses and or frames, it is definitely worth it. Don't complain or pass on the warranty option. You will be grateful later if you have to use it and it will be money well spent.

[@drunio1504]

I used Meguiars Mirror Glaze on lense reverse side to remove some cloudy scratches (I made worse using orange headlight paste too hard). Rub in circles, polish it off, repeat a few dozen times. The distortions & scratches began to disappear. Tedious but it works and will save $100 or more.

[@stevest55]

I don't know about baking soda - may be too abrasive. But for the polishing compound and wax, maybe try to polish the lenses a bit longer than one minute or so. Why not give it a try for 20-30 minutes and then see the results. Regarding deep scratches, if your fingernail can feel the scratch, my guess is that the scratch is just too deep to be polished out.

[@bengordon7635]

Compact disc scratch remover is what I use for my glasses

[@lobdsk]

Does it work

[@user-JenNicole]

Thank you for posting this! I know what not to try with my 1 pair of glasses!

[@LEARNINGCHORDS]

xx

[@ahoo5753]

It took me years to realize that anti scratch they sell you dose exactly the opposite .it will scratch and ruin your glasses about the same time as my insurance would renew,stop using it and glasses last twice as long,no joke!

[@andrewbozward3616]

I have an automatic watch with a plastic glass over the face the glass was badly scratched I used brasso to remove the scratches . It was a success the glass is now like new.

[@jonandersonmd7994]

Your basic premise seems to be that a scratch on a lens is an imperfection that 'rises above' the surface of the lens, and merely has to be removed. The truth is quite the opposite: Thanks, but your basic premise seems to be that a scratch is above the surface of the lens and merely has to be 'worn down' to be removed. But emoving scratches is much akin to sharpening a knife: you can only 'gently' wear down the surface of the lens until the lens thickness in that region is then reduced to be the depth of the scratch ... Of course, this means that 'polishing success' is a function (an 'inverse' function') of the depth of the scratch. Removing enough lens material will, of course, affect the optic parameters of the lens. For 'work' or 'safety' glasses, this might not matter much .. but it's possible that the now thinner lens is 'out of sync' with the prescription .. Not worth it! Its a fact that technicians who polish those huge telescope glass mirrors use their FINGER, wet with water, where incredible accuracy is needed. They say a fingerwipe can remove 5 MILLIONTHS of a millimeter of glass ... so that in their expert hands tremendous accuracies are possible. Many might remember the Hubble Telescope activation disaster where its mirror was found not to be accurately ground (by fingers!) .. Later, their fingerwork did create a corrective lens or mirror that solved the problem. (Just an interesting 'aside' )

[@RasielSuarez]

+Tkj Tkj True but the principle is still the same. It doesn't matter if there are more peaks than valleys so to speak, you should be able to even them out with abrasives. What he did wrong here is not doing it enough. In order to work down the surface to get to the level of the scratches he would've had to rub a looong time!

[@CrazeeGracee]

+Rasiel Suarez by buffing and reducing the surface of the lens, you are actually slightly altering the prescription. This is why eye doctors and optical companies don't recommend it.

[@cindycoker5283]

What they use to polish lenses when your prescription is ground into them is an emory slurry about the consistency of milk. Very fine particulates are in the slurry and they use polishing pads attached to a lap. It's all done with a machine. First it's fined with sandpaper then polished with the emory slurry.

[@carlettabell1687]

Thank you for trying and saving a lot of TIME!

[@greenspiraldragon]

Did you try etching compound?

[@sharonmcdonald967]

Thank you for doing this! In your opinion, is there a difference in quality between lenses from Costco and one of the Mall providers? Certainly their warranty is better than the one from Costco. I bought scratch guard from Costco but apparently it only covers manufacturer's defects. New Costco lenses will cost $179, worth it or throwing good money after bad? In your experience.

[@ahamedriyaz8657]

Hey Sharon, I'm an Optometrist and I deal with lenses everyday. In my experience there is no material that is scratch proof and lenses do come with hard coats that 'resists' scratches but it will eventually get scratched too if roughly handled. So whatever lenses you buy, don't expect any warranty will cover scratches from use. You're better off with the cheaper alternative

[@lgstar3363]

In others Costco best choice

[@Mike_The_Hog_A_Nator]

Flitz is the best polishing compound but I've never had luck removing scratches from glasses or cellphone screens.

[@Steelhorse-enthusiast]

The cutting compound might of worked if you used a dremel with a polishing pad

[@NocturnalNick]

Don't do this, the result is FAR worse than any scratch you have. I'm on this video because trying my dremel essentially destroyed a big spot on my readers

[@hvac01453]

a fix for glasses that are not glass.... glass etching solution. Its cheap and works on glasses that have these coatings on them (they all claim its not a coating but in the plastic which is an outright lie). What it does is dissolve the coating thats crazed on the lens. They look like new, it only works once though. I learned it from a lady that worked for an Optical shop. If they're shot, what have you got to loose?