How to repair flickering lights on Kenmore or Whirpool Fridge

[@greendragon4579]

I miss the $3 old school ligjt bulbs.

[@xraylenses]

This technique didn't work to solve the flickering LEDs in my Kenmore. It acted fixed for about 5 minutes and then went back to flickering. I heated as much as I was comfortable doing, no luck. However, I did find some advice in other discussion forums and what solved the problem was using a soldering iron to rework the solder on both sides of the resistors R15 and R17, as well as the through-board pins for the J2 connector. Now it works. The video helped me remove the assembly easily, thanks.

[@orvalax]

This worked for me. I placed the tip of my soldering iron on the J2 through-broad connectors until the solder melted and then removed the heat. I also heated up the solder on the R15 resistor and melted the solder there too. I've soldered three things in my life now.

[@ryanbolduc69]

Anyone know what number is on R15? R17 is 910 but I can't see R15 to replace it...

[@ultimatemaverick]

My R15 and R17 appeared to be burnt out. Unfortnately I have to buy a new board.

[@Andy-be6bp]

Wow, this worked! I did also notice, as another commented, the R15 solder was exposed and badly eroded, I suspect this will start flickering again soon and the solution will be to resolder the R15 connection

[@rodneyscott4465]

Let me add to the previous comments that you are indeed a genius! The replacement part is now up to $147.00 here in 2023. Thank you for posting this!

[@edwardg8588]

You are the man Carlos. My Kenmore fridge flickered intermittently for about 3 years then just went all out flickering all the time 2 days ago. I looked up how to fix it on KZbin like i do for everything. 5 minutes with a hair dry on high about 2 inches from the board constantly moving it then letting it cool did the trick. Can't thank you enough, saved me from getting a seizure with that light strobing!😅

[@randysimpson205]

Dude! You area genius!!! You just saved me from spending way too much on overpriced, cheap, Chinese made replacement lights. Your fix took about 5 minutes and I couldn't be happier. Thank you!

[@mikejohnson5543]

My LED light was flickering for about a month. I used the heat gun for about two minutes. It worked! It has been about 4 days with no flickering. Thanks.

[@randylopez4826]

Take a look at the solder joints on the connectors/components. Reflow with new solder using a soldering gun. Inspect top of electrolytic capacitors for bulging. Replace if necessary. (retired electronic technician)

[@l.robinson5833]

These companies are out taking our money its important that we pass along useful information and help each other. Thanks for the upload!

[@ashleynarron2032]

Yeah they are trying to stick it to us bro. These greedy capitalist pigs! They won't get get us man. Fight the power!

[@stcroix949]

Had the flickering light and was skeptical at first that this would fix it but gave it a try with a industrial heat gun and digital thermometer. Heated to about 475F for a couple minutes, just to the point of starting to burn the white coating on the board. Put it back in the Kitchenaid refrigerator and has been working for about 2 weeks now. Thanks Carlos, you saved me $100.

[@palmcoast26]

so how about using a hot air cooker

[@CarlosMartinez-oh7ok]

Bradley, I just put an invoice in the mail for $101 for my advice, LOL. Just messing with you, I couldn't resist! I hope your fridge light is still working.

[@stcroix949]

@@CarlosMartinez-oh7ok It is still working after 2 years!! (Knock on wood).

[@CarlosMartinez-oh7ok]

@@stcroix949 Amazing!!!

[@shawncotter6866]

I didnt have to remove the light and heat it up, I jiggled the wire on the right and the light came back on. Thanks for this video, it probably saved me a few hundred bucks.

[@rayfan8430]

yes. it works. thanks for the tips.

[@thesegotoelevan]

This is genius! Used a hair dryer for 2 min and saved me from buying the stupidly over priced replacement!

[@lillyazad2748]

That’s exactly what I did and it worked ❤

[@jimlinton2236]

Whirlpool WRS325DAM and other model refrigerator light flickering and or dimming Seems to be either a moisture issue or a cold solder joint from what I could figure out from similar online complaints. DIY’s have added new wires to connectors, applied heat to the W10515058 and other alike boards, etc. However, I did find some usable advice in other discussion forums and what seems to have solved the problem was using a soldering iron to rework the solder on both ends of the resistors R15 and R17, as well as the through-board pins for the J2 connector, and the capacitor C8. This leads me to believe a cold solder joint issue may be the problem with the board, most likely at one or more of these locations. My reasoning is because some have soldered new direct wires for the J12, or reworked the solder joints at these locations and it remedied their issue. Solution 1, minimal cost, labor high: Unplug the refrigerator unit to avoid shock hazard and possible damage to the LED circuitry when reconnecting the module to power supply. Remove overhead light module from the refrigerator unit and separate the board from the housing. Allow board to completely come to room temperature and let dry any moisture that may be within the circuitry. Re-solder the R15 and R17 resistor connections if just for general principle, capacitor marked C8, along with the connector to board pins on the J2 connector. Reassemble the unit, plug in and test. Solution 2, cost varies, labor medium: Purchase replacement module and replace. Solution 3, higher cost, labor none Call a repairman Solution 4, maximum cost, labor none Replace refrigerator

[@ItsBrooklynn330]

Thanks Jim, never soldered before and I got the fridge light working again using this method.

[@brianseeney1364]

I couldn't find a J 12 on the board. Could you tell me what the J12 is?

[@TheBoomtown4]

Solution 6, plaid cost, labor some Sell house contingent to refrigerator included.

[@juliomartinez4141]

Dude, you are a genius. It worked perfectly for me. Like you said it might not last forever but its a quick fix. Thanks for sharing.

[@osita395]

When I was attempting to take off the light compartment the light stopped flickering. The light was back to normal after a year of flickering. Thank you!

[@aydeedo8892]

Same, had only just got the left click out and no more disco fridge. We'll see how long it lasts.

[@JeepTJWheelin]

I miss the days when honor, dignity and dependability meant something. Now they purposely build things to fail for financial gain. The tried and true lightbulb was the honest thing to do. Sadly that time is long gone!

[@Dezi2222]

yes they do its disgusting

[@user-cf6je4nq1h]

The more we progress, the more we decline as a society on so many different levels! And all for the pursuit of money and perceived power.

[@sithlordsoup]

I think the original light bulb still works too

[@dynomantar9733]

Ehhhh not really tho. In the 1920s, Phillips created a light bulb that would literally last forever. Seems great, but how is this a sustainable business practice? If they continued selling those bulbs, they would have gone out of business 80 years ago. Why should a company be punished for having such a great product that you never have to buy another one? At that point the 3 largest light bulb manufacturers formed an alliance with an agreement to only make bulbs that would last a maximum of 5 years. For that reason they are all still in business and selling you new bulbs every 5 years. Not greed, but rather necessity, in order to stay alive as a business. That's why we can't have nice things.

[@JeepTJWheelin]

@@dynomantar9733 You miss the point, I would gladly pay for a lightbulb that would last 5 years for a few bucks as opposed to an led that cost $85 or more.

[@jimmidan59]

I just tried this on my Kenmore refrigerator LED, and IT WORKED!!! Thank you very much!

[@AJ-zi5ki]

Just tried this and it worked! Thought it was funny at first, but gave it a shot for the heck of it and it worked. Awesome. Thanks Carlos.

[@ecartbunch8562]

Thank you so much my man. I reflow the solder of the board using a heat gun, heat it until solder is melted(make sure you don't move the board) let it cool down ans it fixed the problem. 🙂

[@kevinmiller1218]

I tried the heat gun on my Maytag circuit board - it did not fix the issue. So, I went to eBay & ordered the correct circuit board, which DOES work. Thanks for the video - it showed me how to get light fixture open & how to determine the correct part number for the replacement circuit board.

[@rdbrown627]

Heated it up like Carlos suggested. Success ! These circuit boards generally go thru a furnace to connect the components. Could be there could be a cold solder connection that causes the problem. Heating it up may reconnect the cold joint. RB ,

[@tracyadams8292]

I would never have believed this would’ve worked but it totally worked! Thank you

[@edw5208]

thanks!! saved me bucks. after reading comments tried resoder J2 didn't work. used a magnifying glass and found discoloring under the coating on R15 scraped off coating and touched it with hot soder gun and now we see the light

[@felderrob]

Don't know what the science is behind it, but it worked for me too! Thanks so much, it's sickening how the manufacturers make these defective parts then try to capitolize by demanding ridiculously high prices!

[@DoubleBullet]

It’s because the capacitor used in the circuit are electrolyte capacitors which are known to have their capacitance changed based on temperature. Since the circuit which holds the capacitors are located inside of the fridge (where the temperature can go below zero), the capacitance drops and isn’t enough to fully turn on all the lights in the fridge at once. Think of capacitors as a mini battery but only used for quick and at once to get things going. (Like a jumpstart). The more capacitance a capacitor has the more energy it can store. One way to fix this would be to have the circuit board relocated to another spot in the fridge where it is room temperature. Warming up the capacitors basically revives some of the lost electrolytes which in return increases the capacitance(the amount of energy that can be stored). In warmer conditions the capacitance will increase while in cold conditions the capacitance will decrease (less energy stored). And that’s why it needs to be placed somewhere warmer so there can be enough energy to start up all the lights at once.

[@felderrob]

@@DoubleBullet I understand the logic and I'm sure this is something they know which is why I'm willing to bet they don't want to do that so they can cash in on selling replacement parts

[@DoubleBullet]

@@felderrob I agree, we can clearly see why just by looking at the cost for the replacement part which is listed for $158. It's insane, but anyway there's also another fix for it which technically costs a couple of cents. If you have a soldering iron with you, you can locate a component on the PCB labeled R15, and you can replace it with a very cheap 1k-2k ohm resistor which costs a couple cents for a single one. It's most likely burnt because of the wonky interference the capacitors have in the cold. Doing this fixed it permanently for me. Honestly if you wanted to you can open up a repair/refurbish service for these parts and make a lot of money for replacing one very cheap component.

[@felderrob]

I'll keep that remedy in mind, but for now 10 months later it's still good to go with your first fix.

[@brianseeney1364]

@@felderrob what was the "first fix", the heat gun?

[@marioalejandro7549]

I installed a new one and still the light was not coming on. I did the heating like you advised with a hairdryer and it worked!!🙏🏼

[@Joricano]

gonna try this when i get home. This seems to be a common problem with these type of refrigerators. Thanks for the video

[@ThanhTie]

In this case, I believe the solder in the board is cracking somewhere. We have to resolder the cracking, if not it will happen again later.

[@jbrock925]

This worked for me. You're the man Carlos! I didn't have a handy heat gun or blow dryer. 5 minutes in the oven at 112° did the trick. Thank you!

[@omarmoran3097]

What a genius 😂😂

[@twistedara]

😯

[@colekitten20]

Thank you!! I didn’t need to heat it up but this video helped me figure out how to get the light out and when I got it popped off I just wiggled the wires a little and it fixed the problem! Mine is a 5yo whirlpool fridge. Thanks again!

[@brianseeney1364]

Is the light still working in your refrigerator?

[@colekitten20]

@@brianseeney1364 yes!! I have not had any problems since!!

[@brianseeney1364]

Thank you for answering so quick.

[@nathantalbot3629]

Worked for me... I’m just saying. If your lights can’t withstand cold maybe they shouldn’t put them in the god damn fridge...

[@katejohnson2611]

Amen, bro.

[@marvinduncan8502]

It's not the cold, it's the moisture - mostly condensation from changes in temperature. Still, a poor design.

[@tresabug]

LMFAO my thoughts EXACTLY.....

[@ellenrmrz6923]

Thank you Carlos. I just fixed my using this hack. You’re a genius!!! 👏🏼

[@SeanLozano]

thanks Carlos, that worked! it flickered for a few seconds after plugin then it stayed on. Whirlpool model WRS325FDAM02

[@reggiecooper9949]

OMG!!!!! just tried this. It took me 5 minutes. It worked like a charm

[@carynortega-cantu1715]

This didn't work for me but learned how to dismantle it. Thank you

[@davidgangwer8557]

Thank you!! Bought a heat gun at Lowes and followed your instructions. Mother-in-law can now see in her fridge.

[@josegarcia12334]

Got some brownie points didn’t you!! Hahah

[@monicapttrsn]

It worked for five minutes. At least we know which module to replace. Thanks for the help.

[@miketittle6820]

I will try this thank you. If it doesn't work I'll just disconnect the light. I can perfectly see what's in my fridge without the lights

[@faridalhadi6528]

This worked. Unplugged my fridge, pulled out the light, left it in the son for 10 minutes, put a hair dryer on it for a minute, hooked it back up. Working now, flickers a little bit but then turns on. We’ll see how long it lasts

[@hokinizeu]

thank you so much, fixed mine too. mine was apparently a loose connection. as soon as i tried to take off the panel it got fixed.

[@localh]

Thanks so much for the video, I resolder R15 at the LED side, so far its working.

[@ryanbolduc69]

My R15 is burnt out...and I can't read the number on it to replace it. Any idea what the number is? R17 is 910.... thanks!

[@localh]

@@ryanbolduc69My pcb, R15 is 1270, but my R17 is 91R0. On mine, R15 visually got hot. I resolder it anyways, and works better than the PCB I bought in ebay as a spare just in case.

[@charlestreadway2512]

This helped me so much. Watched this and replaced my light. The heating did not work through. Ordered it on Ebay thank you so much

[@joemedina5903]

thanks buddy, I didn't know how to release the light. thanks for you very important you tube video this helped me alot

[@dbk9555]

Thanks for posting. Tried on My model WRS325FDAM04 without success. Also, purchased replacement part ending in 58. Still no success. Called my appliance repair expert and he said this model has this issue and could potentially cost $400. He’s suggested to use motion sensor LED for $14 on amazon as an alternative. Was a little disappointed this didn’t work.

[@twistedara]

Im going through this now. I just read sombody else did the same thing with motion lights.

[@donsmith9478]

My refrigerator-freezer was bought in 2014. LED light started strobing just over 2 years later, beyond the warranty period. Since I have had to replace solenoids on my previous model, I ordered one without an ice maker. I use one of those rechargeable LED closet or under-cabinet lights that has a magnetic strip. It is off when the door is closed and on when the door is opened. That's what I have been using since 2016 when mine started strobing. I recharge it when it flashes red. I have taped over the light switches so power to the defective lights is off.

[@sSeSs808]

Who would of thought. It worked for me.... for now. Thanks for sharing!

[@debkramer9974]

Thanks for sharing. I tried it and so far it's working after 2 weeks!

[@ELGUACHO24]

I can’t believe this, it works!! Thank you so much

[@rorymalcolm6389]

Thanks, this fix worked for me. Apparently the problem is cheap manufacturing so the heat re-seats the components.

[@Legnerps]

Wow ! Worked for me too! And this was my second replacement light. I guess that's what you get for a mere thousand dollar refrigerator. 🙄

[@trappist99]

Thanks, this works for a couple of weeks, but it wasn't permanent, I did it a couple of times and then broke down and bought a new light. That worked for a year or so and I have the same problem. I think Kenmore has a design issue.

[@MarsOneBeatz]

What you did was not what the problem is on the light assembly for your fridge. Yes, what you did fixed it, but that is because things like simply removing & reinstalling the light assembly, or sometimes just tapping on it, can fix the issue for 10 minutes, 10 hours, or even 10 months or more, but it is not addressing the actual problem. To address the real problem, you need to remove the light assembly from the fridge and then remove the circuit board from the housing, on the flat side w/ only smd components, where the LEDs shine their light from, not the side with the capacitors, look for the transistor labeled R15, directly below it is a transistor labeled R17, I can almost guarantee anyone experiencing this same problem, has a burned or blown out R15 transistor. This has been a problem for so many people that I really feel there should have been a recall, especially since that transistor costs less than 10 cents yet the cost for this fridge light assembly retails for about $150. I was able to fix mine using an exacto blade to scrape off all of the burnt crud from around the R15 transistor followed by cleaning it with some isopropyl alcohol and then reapplying a waterproof conformal coating over it. The problem originated w/ the cheap & poorly applied conformal coating when the board was manufactured, leading to corrosion that blows said transistor. I've seen other people that have fully replaced that R15 transistor, and if you need to do that, the transistor is 130 Ω = code 1320. Hope this helps save someone from wasting $150 buying a whole new light assembly!

[@crystal7705]

Just tried this and it worked 😀. I had my doubts but if it helps for in the mean time. Thank you!

[@newblack88]

Hi Carlos, thanks so much! Your instructions worked like a charm. IOU one 😊

[@saskatuner]

Best video I've seen on this problem. Helped alot . Thanks !

[@diggervank]

Just went through this with a three year old Whirlpool I left the light hang in the fridge when it started flashing I squeezed different areas found the single capacitor marked C8 on the board its the one by itself would make the light act right again then later flash again,scraped the coating off the back side and re soldered the pins works fine now.

[@MichaelWilliams-xs3bj]

Thanks! I am tired of the strobe action, lol!

[@jusjoseph]

Thanks for the video. Mine just started flickering.

[@ThanhTie]

In this case, I believe the solder in the board is cracking somewhere. We have to resolder the cracking, if not it will happen again later.

[@lillyazad2748]

Can you please post how to resolver it because mine is not working anymore

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

The one I looked at didn't have the strobing effect, but instead all the lights were dim and barely visible. I originally thought it was the most expensive LED module at the top of the refrigerator, but I took it out and bench tested it, and it seems to be okay. The way it works is by taking the switched 120V AC going into the right side connector, and then generating the fancy pants slow fade on DC power supply for the steering of LEDs. Voltage measured on the small output connector was about 35V. The small connector on the left side goes to the series connected lights including the freezer and the refrigerator bottom, so if those are bad and not conducting, it affects them all. The top module can be tested by applying 120V to the larger connector and putting a 600 ohm resistance on the small connector. If it lights up then the top module is okay, and the issue may be with the other LED assemblies or the connectors to them. Poorly designed, since they couldn't figure out how to make these things work for longer than the mechanical parts of the refrigerator, given the price they want for replacements.

[@KirkA0906]

Mine was also flickering. I had to replace both the fridge light board (10515058) in top of fridge and the light in the freezer (10515057). There was actually a led on the freezer board that went out. This caused the power board in the fridge to stop working. After I replaced both boards, my lights are working again.

[@byontz4672]

I wanted this to work so much. I am so sick of the flickering…but no luck for me. Same results after trying three times with heat. Thanks anyway.

[@Andrew-un4pu]

Wow! Worked like a charm! Glad I found this video

[@lillyazad2748]

It worked for me and I’m hoping it last longer ❤

[@carnut7521]

WRS322FDAM04 - Whirlpool Tried the heat - didn't work, ordered a new circuit board. That didn't work either. But I noticed that from time to time, the old one did work - for a very short time. Reading the comments pointed to R15 (Is that a resistor?) which was discolored on both the old and new board. Scrapped the top of both with my fingernail. I don't know if it was the pressure, but the old one has been working for a week. Scraping didn't work on the new one. However, the freezer light still doesn't work.

[@lisabyrd2998]

This worked for us too!! Thank you for posting.

[@hannibal_barca01]

Thanks for posting this.I have a different model fridge, but this worked for me.

[@jameslopez4697]

Thank you for the helpful advice

[@priscillabacorn8184]

I’m trying this. The board is outside. If I have to order one the part # is identical to mine. Finally figured out how take the light down. Tks🤗

[@Moonboy83]

This is awesome. Do you think a hair dryer will generate enough heat to do the trick ? Also, do you think the reason for the fail is humidity build up ? Is that what causes the module to fail ? Just curious about what you guys think ?

[@dynomantar9733]

Yes a hair dryer is enough heat, especially because the heat isn't what fixed the problem. By unplugging the plugs and reconnecting them you clean the pins which are usually causing this problem. If you haven't already done this, I would skip the heat all together(especially a heat gun, dangerous) and spend more time with some contact cleaner on the connections

[@92camaro100]

@@dynomantar9733 thanks for that advice I disconnected the top led in the fresh food ceiling, lightly sprayed a little silicone WD-40 on both connectors on the board, wiped both connectors off with a paper towel, reconnected both wiring harness connectors back to the two on the board and no more flickering, works perfect and was quicker and easier then heating the board up.👍🏾

[@cruisepro2]

This worked. Amazing. Thank you!!!

[@magicyoung6110]

I have a four years Whirpool, I replaced the old LED lights with three new ones. It works for 2 hours and then goes dark, I tried to unplug and plug them again, it worked for another 2 hours...... I'm very sure the lights and switches are good, any idea of the issue?

[@jordanjorgensen923]

Thanks man, it worked. You saved me tons of annoyance.

[@thachnamxanh]

Thank you very much. Your method helped me to save at least 99$.

[@jeffreysincoski7332]

Thanks this seemed to solve issue for now!

[@esstkmail]

There are 2 lights in series in my Whirlpool fridge. One for the freezer and one for the fridge. Mine fridge light wasn't flickering but light was very low. The freezer one was out causing a voltage drain on the fridge light. I replaced the freezer board and the fridge light is good now. The freezer light plug is a pain to put in so make sure you see how the plug comes out because when you put it back in , you cannot see it. Totally by feel. The board comes out from the lens and your paying $20 for the lens alone. So the freezer light is W10515057 and the fridge is W10515058. Ebay is cheaper.

[@luisantonioalvaradoarce3962]

Worked for me, amazing, thanks for the advice, I could figure out the problem!!!

[@tylergoodlett7787]

You’re the fi€k|n man Carlos, did my whirlpool light and it worked, been out for years!

[@ThomasWeeks]

I was going to solder reflow my board, but noticed my whole board is coated in some kind of clear coat. Are you guys having problems reflowing this board?

[@MattDinoff]

This worked perfectly. Thank you!

[@smuzoff]

did you leave out showing removal of the module and putting it back in? WOuld be helpful to a non tech person, thanks. How did you know there are many refridgerators with this LED problem? I called Sears and they said they didnt have any recall on it, not very helpful. My fridge is only 1 1/2 yr old and same issue. I thought Kenmore was known to last. LED lights dont last, wish it was just a regular bulb would be easy to change, not this kind of trouble.

[@jimlinton2236]

@@smuzoff The video covers removal and installation, and as far as issues of same for many models, you can cross reference the part number and see what manufacturer it is used for. Many appliances are made by the same manufacturer and sold under different brand names.

[@alflstine]

I didn't even used a heat gun or a hair blower I just put it on the sun for 30 min and its working perfect now

[@lijuthotam]

I tried that but it didn't work for me

[@alflstine]

@@lijuthotam it worked for one day only and try hair blower same thing one day :(

[@steved2774]

What is the rainbow large rectangle behind the board? Is it wiring or just something you used to prop up the board?

[@JEFFANDTAN]

It worked day 1. I will let you know if it continues to work with no flickering.

[@donnajoslyn5010]

I'm having the same issue. I took the lights out of the fridge and see that it is the exact same number he says in the video. W10515058 I'm going to try leaving it out until it hits room temperature and see if that solves the issue. I'm worried about using a blow dryer on it. I'll let you know if it worked or if I continued on with the blow dryer. Thank you

[@hellosweetheart3350]

Did it work???

[@HSeaward3]

This worked great!

[@shelleywilliams3401]

Thanks. Worked perfectly!

[@joebower6748]

Worked like a charm! Thanks

[@josuezuniga8633]

Hey thanks it worked on my Kenmore (Wow)

[@shnibby69]

I’ll try this, Carlos! Thanks!

[@kennethchristie770]

Just be careful not to overheat the electrical components in the module

[@marvinduncan8502]

That's the best comment of all. There's an IC circuit and transistor on that board. Heat is the enemy of transistors. Easy to fry them. I would recommend removing the board, blow barely warm air over it while it warms to room temperature. Clean the connectors with contact cleaner to remove corrosion and oxidation (a good design would have used gold plating on the connectors), then coat the male connectors with a conductive grease. Finally, when the board is warm to room temperature and completely dry, spray the entire board with a protective coating. Clear lacquer would work well.

[@ericn9vjg]

It did not work for me, but I did buy the part and installed. I unplugged the fridge, but in the new lamp/board and plugged back in. Refrigerator side is fine now. But freezer is still dark.

[@dirtyred1687]

YOU GOTTA REPLACE THE FREEZER LIGHT sorry about the caps ,I have whirlpool the freezer light went out had the insurance called factory sent out tech replaced freezer light the other 2 lights in the fridge were also out he replaced freezer all the lights came back on

[@henryfox8375]

I had to expand on this fix a little.... I tried to heat the board up but it only worked for like a few seconds. I did however leave the light out of the fridge over night and decided to try it again before paying $150 for a new one. It has been working for two days without trouble.

[@IamMigz23]

This really worked. Thanks

[@jasmineisit]

It works!!! But the real issue is likely the capacitors in the light have gone bad and heating it up allows something inside the capacitors to reconnect. Or the entire board could be bad. These are my hubby’s thoughts.

[@pawsfurGod]

Thank you so much!!!!! I will try it ASAP!!!!!!👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽😁

[@ronotardo]

my lights are very dim, took it out and heated it up, but no change?

[@gmund9938]

Tried this today, August 19, 2021. The first time I heated it with the hairdryer put it back in it didn’t work. I took it out and heated it for a longer time, put it back in and it started working. I think the problem is that they apply a coat of some sort of sealant on this and after time,i it stops working. When you heat up the part, the sealant reactivates and is shiny again. I will see how long it lasts.

[@WorldHarvestCO]

Yes, this did indeed work. If this is a temporary one, that is fine, the part costs about $150 from the cheapest source I can get it.

[@yn9861]

I have 2 separate bulbs and they are both flickering?

[@amandacampisi7205]

I couldn't get the light out of the fridge part but I was able to get the one out of the freezer side. Hope this works

[@richp6824]

Thank you so much..... I can't believe that worked.

[@shaoqingan12]

It really works. Thanks a lot

[@lornegolman]

Long term, how long has the repair lasted?

[@davidshort2688]

I have model #WRS322FDAW04 and it did not work for me still flickering. I am going to order the part and hope for the best.

[@lorenzoramirez5447]

Did buying the new part help? Is ot still working?