How to Replace: BMW E39 Wheel Carrier Ball Joint (Rear Sway Bar End Link, Integral Link) FCP Euro

[@fcpeuro]

Buy the kit here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ball-joint-replacement-kit-33326767748kt?

[@prasiprassi]

The way you explain everything is just awesome. I love it.

[@rockers2rockers616]

FCP Euro has some of the best DIY videos for BMW, even the older models which need the most work.

[@UCK1994]

So far no one has done it as great as you explain how to do it again👍👍💯Greetings from Germany

[@ianmcwilliam1753]

I watched this very informative and easy to follow video 9 years ago when I first bought my 540/6. What a difference it made. Well here I am watching it again just to make sure I haven’t forgotten anything. The bmw original parts lasted approximately 80,000. Well I used Meyle brand . 60,000 miles later -but since it’s needed this for the last 10k they actually only lasted 50,000miles . Hopefully the lemforder parts hold up for longer .

[@turbob84]

Best video ever! Planning on doing same job on the rear right wheel as I feel skidding when I do a sharp turn and of course the squeaky noise coming from that wheel that is sooo annoying.... Streets of LA completely ruined my control arms

[@corynewton9311]

Thanks for the video! Though I noticed when installing the eccentric bolt that you swapped which side the nut was on. Initially it was on the rear side of the arm and when you re-installed you placed it on the forward side of the arm. As you were probably getting an alignment shortly after I don't think it was going to make much of a difference, but for someone who can't get to the alignment shop for a bit that small detail rendered your locating marks null and void.

[@Elwooddudes]

Thanks for the help, been watching this over and over whilst parts are being delivered. Tackling this weekend!

[@KKE1978]

This is just great. You just saved me the headache . Thank thank you. I was trying to swing that swing arm out of the way and it was a pain. Also the fact that you use a common ball joint tool you can rent for free. Your explanation was great. You got a new sub

[@haroldheim2600]

This was very very useful, its a shame I didn't see it before I changed mine. I had over 300,000 on my car before I think they were changed for the first time. I purchased the same C-clamp kit as well, from Harbor Freight. I turned mine from a "C" to an "I" clamp. It was so rusted in I used the cups that came with it and a large grade 8 bolt to remove them and broke a bolt on the second one trying to get it out. I had to heat mine up and let them cool a couple of times as well before I was able to get them to break free.

[@austinbecker4654]

Alright that was just about the most informative video I have watched. The e53 X5 is lacking videos for help however after watching this I found out they are basically the same as far as suspension. Thank you very much for this video.

[@steveinfl1]

Looks easy, and probably is with the right tools and a Pro doing it for the 1000th time. Excellent DIY video Garth. Gonna do this after my Vanos seal job next week.

[@BoydCooperLegend]

Hey you guys, I just saw the video in german with the same theme and shall I tell you something? You did it much better in every respect! Thanks a lot, great job.

[@fcpeuro]

Thank you! We appreciate it

[@snugdan]

Thanks for the video. I've been struggling with the ball joint tonight and I noticed that even though you said that you should keep the ball joint nice and straight, yours ends up really crooked at 9:10 and you just force it through and it straightens. I've been stopping when mine got crooked because I didn't want to break anything. Interesting to see that you can just force it through and it'll be ok.

[@Dustinsfishtanks]

Great video....this helped me a ton today on my N60

[@elaubuch8538]

Nice video! One small comment on the torquing procedure. Once it clicks, every time you make it click after that is potentially moving the threads tighter a fraction of a turn, hence over torquing the nut. Other than that, very helpful video! Thank you!

[@7Westwood]

Thanks for another great video.... Your customer service is outstanding too !!!

[@michaelXXLF]

When you go around a corner, hit a bump and the rear feels like breaking out (Or worse if it is actually breaking out.) those two are toast and need to be replaced asap. I'll do that very repair this week, thanks a million for your instructional video!

[@touringusa8760]

Excellent! How automotive DYI videos should be made.

[@stashtrey1]

This was great. Going to do this on my M5 here soon. Will order everything from FCP now that your shipping to California is the best around. Have been shocked at how cheap I can finally get things here 2 day. A+ on working on better shipping rates for those of us on the other side of the country.

[@fcpeuro]

We can't forget about our friends in California! Really glad you are happy with our shipping rates! Good luck with the install on your M5.

[@PureSPLprix]

@@fcpeuro Hi how did you know when you had the control arm at ride height before you torqued everything down?? This is a great video and I especially like knowing what tools I will need before I start a job. Buttoning back up just for a store run isn't fun lol

[@lydvis]

Perfect DIY!! All your videos are very detail and easy understandable!! Great work!!

[@stevecirimele5585]

Great video! You make it look easy. I guess having a lift helps, eh? I did this job on my e38 a few months ago and pressing out the ball joint was a major pain - the removal tools I borrowed from AutoZone wouldn't fit, and trying to make one with plumbing materials was a big waste of time. I finally capitulated and bought the specific tool - about $110 new off ebay, it's a China knockoff but worked PERFECTLY and pressing out/in the balljoint was a breeze with it. Worth every penny. My ball joints were shot, but not nearly as bad as the one in this video. BTW - I did the control arms and struts too, just to make things complicated and expensive ;) '99 e38 180,000 miles.

[@gusti77]

I had the same issue! The clamp thing from autozone was a complete disaster. When it comes down to it, buying the specific tool can save you lots of money vs. paying someone to deal with the resulting mess.

[@Poizon-]

It looks so easy... Changing all the bushings on my e38 at the moment, so far took about a full days of work and one side is almost out of the car... Snapped inner upper bushings bolt, snapped two drive shaft bolts and lower inner bolt and nut was half rounded since before and of course i've rounded it even more now... Then I gotta do the same thing for other side and then onto pressing the bushings D:

[@Justin-dz2oo]

Thanks for your video! I just did mine and it was very straight forward with your video as a guide to make sure I didn’t miss anything!

[@fcpeuro]

You're welcome, asdfg! Glad we can help!

[@brianrowland9993]

Great clear no bs video 10/10! Subscribed!

[@joshkahn1044]

This video has been invaluable!

[@unancien6250]

Bravo !!!!!! Thank you so much for this vidéo . Haikel from France

[@fcpeuro]

You're welcome Haikel!

[@glasspedals6857]

what size cups are you using to catch the ball joint? i've bought and returned 3 different ball joint kits today because the cups that'll fit are way too big and causing clearance issues, currently using the same harbour freight one in the video and still having the same issue

[@cookiehead2]

For the snap ring, if you can get a pair of needle-nose pliars to open it enough, you can get a flat head screwdriver between the opposite side of the ring and the ball joint - pull the screwdriver to the side and it’ll pop off.

[@Zymh]

Awesome video!

[@fcpeuro]

Thank you Rochan!

[@jnambo5500]

FCP Euro since Id have access to the rear differential, how much fluid does it take? Also what kind/type? On a 01 530i 09/2000 production.

[@crazyharis]

thanks verry mutch ... i did it today .. 6 houres 🤦 wouldn t pop out so i did everything posible 😢 it s in now 🙌 must say that i did it on the ground not on a lift and without the tool 😭

[@ewebbytrailscout]

would have been nice to see how you got the intregal link on, what a nightmare getting past swaybar.

[@roscommonhonkytonk]

Excellent video..very well explained thank you🇮🇪

[@npduncan73]

Great video! Unfortunately for me this job has been one giant PITA. The universal press sleeves for the ball joint doesn't clear the wheel carrier. Now that I've given up and trying to get everything back together to take it to the Indy the swing arm is giving me fits. Any secret to getting the swing arm over the integral link bushing? On mine the edge of the swing arm makes contract with the edge of the bushing keeping it from sliding into place.

[@mule666]

One question.. The bolts of swinarm on the back where you remove one bolt.. Where you mark it i dont have to jack up first and then torck itdown same like the side where the ball joint is.?

[@ElfriedesFrisierstub]

Perfekt video, thanks guys for helping me on this.

[@AaronLeighPink]

would a bad ball joint cause the annoying squeaking when going over bumps and dips ?

[@frankmaggio4328]

I have uneven wear on my rear inner edge. I replaced the shocks w B4 bilsteins, and added a spc rear camber kit installed in new upper control arms. we swapped tires so the inner edge is now on the outside and the inner edge is new so to speak. we just drove 1200 miles NY to FL. Inner edge is cupped again! I guess I have to so the rear ball joint. 05 645ci convertible. Do I need to replace the lower control bushings as well??

[@fcpeuro]

Hi Frank, yes it's definitely possible the lower control arm bushings are worn as well causing the uneven wear.

[@siny528i]

Awesome Video! Well explained! That's what I am doing right now! Thanks a LOT!

[@fcpeuro]

You're welcome! Glad you like the video!

[@siny528i]

​@@fcpeuro Everything is SO EASY in your video. In my case (239k E39) its a warzone. I had to use Impact Wrench to remove E14 bolts. Had to cut bolt to remove the Guide Link. Now I removed the Nut and Eccentric Washer, but stuck with the Bolt in Lower Control Arm. Its real PITA!

[@gigel99324]

@@siny528i how'd it go?

[@terrmaso]

Thanks for the video, I am about to undertake this task. As far as ride height when torquing, do you measure the hub center when it is on the ground and replicate that with the jack?

[@michaelXXLF]

Terry Mason That is one way. You can also stand the car on its wheels on a four-colum lift or over a trench.

[@crazy4gta1]

Awesome video. I just have two questions. 1. What where the symptoms this car suffered from? 2. When loading the suspension to ride height, can it be achieved by placing the car on ramps with the wheels attached?

[@kierancrowe1888]

how did you get the car to "ride height" with the wheel off as I'm going to attempt mine soon you made it look easy :) thanks

[@fcpeuro]

Hello Kieran, a jack placed under the control arm will get the suspension to ride height.

[@kierancrowe1888]

FCP Euro so just lower the car down onto a jack stand or jack to get weight on to it and then torque them up

[@fcpeuro]

We were able to do this with a lift. If you are working on regular jack stands use the floor jack to compress the suspension watching for the corner that is sitting on the jack stand to raise slightly. You don't want the car to be completely off the stand but you want to see that the weight of the corner of the vehicle is being supported by the suspension.

[@jjthesavage]

Nice! Tackling this tonight.

[@kribar96]

I have an annoying squeek when it's dry outside, some balljoint i guess. It's gone when raining. Any ideas?

[@lowes1388]

Can you do one for e90 models

[@robertlucidomusic]

Approach this job with caution. Next time I'm just taking it to the dealership 😂 good luck

[@simplelangperorock]

Garr, will this apply also to the 2007 3.0si X5 e70?

[@mgnumd8944]

great job, thank you very much for this video

[@fcpeuro]

Thanks, mgnum! You're very welcome!

[@smooth8397]

This video was uploaded quite a while ago. Are you still answering questions? My ball joint is very rusted into the housing. Even a breaker bar on the c-clamp to remove the ball joint is VERY hard to twist and ball joint hasn’t budged. Soaking in penetrant as we speak. Any advise to get that puppy outta there. Thanks

[@fcpeuro]

Hi, Scott. Try hitting it with some heat from a torch, if that still doesn't get it out, you might want to look for another housing to put the new ball joint in!

[@muccitorasti3028]

This man is awsome

[@luisenrique41510]

Can u help me? A mechanic telling me I need foword & rear control arm cuz the left boll joint it's fuck up.is it posible if i can just replace all the front boll joints on My bmw 7 series 740 Li it's making a rasty squiky sound ...

[@Top_g80comp]

Fantastic video

[@tysoncross1120]

Is this the solution for a clunking/knocking noise in the rear(sounds like it's in the trunk)?

[@luckyhack78]

3:11 the bolt 18mm is on the left side (screen) at 12:45 he puts the bolt on the right side.... no good ;)

[@reza_dc2]

is there anyway to not remove the alignment bolt but have the arm drop down?

[@fcpeuro]

The bolt would still need to be loosened at a minimum to get any play in the arm. If you are doing this repair, you will need to get an alignment regardless, so marking the hardware before you remove it will be your best bet.

[@reza_dc2]

I hear ya , when you marked it.. it looks like you marked the washer to the frame. Is that washer attached to the bolt ? I was thinking you would mark the bolt , washer , and to the frame. @@fcpeuro

[@SteeltechPC]

Great video! Thanks for taking the time to make these helpful videos. I was wondering if you could make a video on how to replace the rear lower control arm bushings?

[@fcpeuro]

The rear lower control arm (swing arm) does not have serviceable bushings. The entire are would need to be replaced in order to replace them unfortunately.

[@daikiryoku]

There are aftermarket bushing available now.

[@MrCuckoobox]

@@daikiryoku Yes, you are correct.......Meyle makes bushing kit and has vid on their site. PSB makes Poly Bushings.

[@frankmaggio4328]

Thanks for making this video! I have an 05 645ci. 139k miles. Just replaced the struts and now want to replace the rear UCA w new SPC rear camber kit installed into the UCAs. I guess I should really replace the ball joint due to the mileage. The reason I am replacing the UCA w the kit is b/c I have 19x10 STR 607 rear wheels and the tires last about 6-7 months due to inner tire wear. I want zero camber zero toe if at all possible. I am already at max'ed out alignment. Just need more. What is the average cost at an indy for replacing the rear UCAs, and this joint? I can tackle it myself but I will need the car towed to get the alignment anyway. No easy win with these 6 series. My e36 328i is way easier to maintain!!! Thanks for your time.

[@X1Y2Z0]

My new lemforder after market by ZF ball joints just slides right in(no pressing) . What happened ? I cleaned up the old one and it also slides right in. Do I need to replace the carrier

[@fcpeuro]

That is odd, you may need to replace the carrier.

[@michaelfrancis3409]

I'm replacing My integral link on 06 530xi and not the ball joint I watched your video it was helpful but will it effect anything if I take the threw blot on the control arm out to remove the link ?

[@fcpeuro]

+Michael Francis As long as you do not touch any of the eccentric bolts at the subframe you should be okay. However, depending on how worn the integral link was it may be worth while to get a rear end alignment as the angles could be off leading to tire wear.

[@mrnajee1]

Is this process the same for the touring?

[@nothuman22]

Would this be the same for a 1995 BMW 740i? I think it's the E38. Also can you point me in the direction of what is causing rear inner tire wear? Thanks.

[@fcpeuro]

nothuman22 The rear suspension is basically the same so the procedure would be identical. Inner tire wear and "cupping" is likely caused by the play of the wheel carrier ball joint.

[@MRXCHRISS]

When you torque the integral bolt/nut and put the car under load to get the ride height, where did put the jack pad exactly? Swing arm? Thanks...

[@fcpeuro]

Yes, the safest point to raise that corner of the suspension by would be the swing arm.

[@MRXCHRISS]

FCP Euro, thanks. Do both sides need to be under load or is it ok just to load the side I am torquing?

[@fcpeuro]

It's fine to load one side at a time, that won't cause any issues.

[@zeei2620]

wow this guy knows the stuff. wish he was my neighbor :) e39 525iT here

[@gilaba2852]

Seems to me that e39 e53 and the 7 series have the same rear suspension set up 👍

[@mule666]

U have been a great help

[@trajan9101]

Great video very detailed...

[@mrlrob3102]

Great vid. Quick question . I have squeak from the top right side of my rear suspension when going over bumps or turning into driveways . I did replace the rear struts and the strut mounts seem to go away for a while then came back . The right rear strut mount I took out was broken. Any thoughts on this . Thank in advance.

[@simonworrall7162]

It’s possibly the inner bushings on the swing arm. Can you replicate the creak by bouncing the corner. If so you can confirm by asking someone else to do this while you peer underneath.

[@thrty8street]

What is the torque spec for the sway bar end link??

[@LIOTBs]

Thank you for this! I have one question and I have been trying for a couple of days now. It's the very last step. For some reason I can't get the control arm and the knuckle to come together to get that final really long bolt through. The control arm keeps getting caught up on the ball joint. The only thing I can think of is that the ball joint was pressed too far. It did go about an 1/16 of an inch too far, the aluminum is pretty soft. Can you help!?! 2001 x5

[@fcpeuro]

If the flange of the ball joint (the opposite end of where the snap ring sits) was pushed 1/16" further that would mean the flange has bored into the aluminum knuckle. That is not a good scenario as it would mean two things: 1) The ball joint is out of alignment completely and can shift around inside the knuckle as it's not sitting in the correct position 2) The knuckle has been damaged If possible, please send an email to [e-mail] with a photo of what this ball joint looks like pressed into the knuckle so we can verify visually what this looks like installed.

[@LIOTBs]

Thank you FCP Euro, for being willing to help out and for your detailed reply. I will send that photo to you today. Most generous of you, thank you!

[@ListArkansasProperty]

we are nearing 298k miles on our 03 530i considering deeper maintenance like this

[@frederickhernandez8413]

Larry Brinkley that's impressive mines an 04 at 209k and I thought that was a lot, have you had any major issues with yours?

[@Shas4Ever]

Great informative video.

[@egilkv]

I have a real pain with the tension of the spring, which puts everything under pressure and makes every thing really difficult. Any tips on this? (I have a touring, maybe that is worse) It is really hard to fit spring compressors in there. Was this on an air suspension car? Two more comments: 1. Make sure to read the ride height before you start. 2. Should not also the two inner swing arm bushings be tightened at ride height?

[@fcpeuro]

Never done it on a wagon. The coil spring provides extra resistance because it's mounted separately from the shock absorber. I looked around but couldn't find anything specific. Might have to keep a load on the lower control arm to get this job done. Also you're right to say the two inner swing arm bushings should be tightened at ride height.

[@stefan2meter]

After braking hard repeatedly (bedding in new rear brakes) the rear of my E61 pulls to one side on acceleration and ‘snaps’ back on releasing the pedal; also a lot of neg camber and toe in on the right hand rear wheel + off center steering wheel... does that sound like the rose bushing? Kind regards from The Netherlands!

[@fcpeuro]

Hi Stefan, it sounds like there is definitely a bushing that has failed and causing this alignment issue. I would get the car up on a lift and have it checked out right away!

[@stefan2meter]

FCP Euro just to get back at you... too bad I can’t share pics here; the complete inside of the right side rose bush/ball joint is GONE... as in I can see right through a half inch gap. So, as soon as the special tool for the job comes in later this week, I will put it on jack stands and install new ball joints and integral arms on both sides, and I -hope- the hole for the ball joint is not screwed (luckily a local breaker has a replacement carrier for 25 bucks if needed). This car had an inspection less than a year ago (I bought it last summer) and it somehow wasn’t noticed by the tech inspector.

[@fcpeuro]

@@stefan2meter Thanks for the update! Wow, I'm surprised that was overlooked by the inspector! Well, I'm glad you figured out the issue, and I hope the install goes smoothly. The car will drive so much better after this. Let us know if you need anything else!

[@MichalZ78]

SWEET JOB !

[@BryceBrownFtw]

Hello, first of all, I would like to say thank you for the video. I am currently in the process of doing a rear suspension overhaul on my M5 and this video has been a godsend. I do have a question though: Is there any trick to getting the swing arm back into alignment with the ball joint and integral link? thank you

[@fcpeuro]

+Bryce Brown Glad the video was able to help you out. There is no real trick to align the integral link, ball joint, and lower swing arm in place. My recommendation is to bring the integral link in place and then bring the control arm up. Going from the back of the control arm (facing the rear of the car) insert the long bolt through the control arm, ball joint, and integral link. You may have to twist the assembly and shift it around to get the bolt to go through. Once the long bolt is through you can then bolt the upper part of the integral link to the wheel hub. Tighten the lock nut on the long bolt and the top bolt. With full load on the suspension torque to spec.

[@ds1919ds1919]

Perfect vid thx!!

[@orionsrustrepair]

Great tutorial! My E39T rear suspension has developed a creaking noise recently. I suspect the lower ball joint. Do you know the exact diameter of the two cups used? thanks.

[@fcpeuro]

No information on the two cups. They are the standard ones that come with master ball joint press kits. You can usually rent this type of tool for free from your local auto parts store.

[@orionsrustrepair]

Thanks, I went ahead and bought a ball joint removal kit on eBay. Had to loosen the lower shock absorber bolt though as on the Touring, the shock is in another position.

[@kleinerzeh3964]

Why did you install the eccentric bolt the other way round (180 degrees turned) like it was installed before?

[@fcpeuro]

+Kleiner Zeh Good catch. That was a mistake which was corrected later after checking the work over.

[@mohammedfaraj1111]

So good .thanks

[@Username7710]

do u know where to get a bmw torque spec book ? also would you plz do a full front control arms and rods for e39 ? thank you

[@fcpeuro]

+Ahmed Abd elsalam (Mada) There are several publications which contain torque specs, but I located a comprehensive PDF for you: www.hightail.com/download/bXBiV0owQXBQb0tKUmNUQw

[@krismorey]

When I seen that clamp I was happy, that's a common tool.

[@fcpeuro]

We try to use common tools that most people have when possible!

[@gusti77]

Red thingies... did you install Lemfoerder? Why not Meyle?

[@fcpeuro]

We did install Lemfoerder, no particular reason why, Lemfoerder is OEM but most the suspension parts on this car are actually Meyle.

[@borisidijana]

my dad has an e39 and his rear left makes noise when driving and tyre is worn from inside. could this be his problem?

[@fcpeuro]

Hello Boris, It's a possibility that could be the cause. Please feel free to email us at [e-mail], we'll do our best to help you out with that issue.

[@MonoLucas123]

A little dab of grease also helps putting it in if you are using a homemade version of this tool. I want to exchange mine (E36) but with poly... anyone ever used that for the rear out balljoint?

[@computiNATEor]

A polyurethane bushing really shouldn't really be used in place of a rotating bushing. There's a reason why race teams use spherical bushings.

[@zemiorka]

Very useful vidéo. Thanks a lot for sharing

[@TranceLover714]

Awesome video, how did you torque the rear swing arms?

[@piotrm2833]

Thanks for your reply I will have a floating exchange bushing and bracket Snuffles great movie

[@airsetsuna1162]

great work

[@maumuse2211]

Do yall have any vídeos for the front Thrust arm? on tje e39

[@fcpeuro]

Hello Mauricio, Unfortunately we don't have that video at the moment.

[@Paris.Kalachnikov]

Good Video. Thanks

[@dcanon]

Do you have to remove the rear shocks to do this job?

[@fcpeuro]

Dennis Canon Nope, we didn't touch the shock for this repair.

[@patkelly9907]

On the touring only you have to remove the shock

[@MrRoundel]

Good video, but it got me in a heap of trouble. I'd sure like to see the part that was edited out at around 11:35 when the swing-arm just sets in place all easy-peasy like. I'd take a now educated guess that there was some wrestling that took place just before the swing-arm made it to the right position. I'm still fighting with mine, as I couldn't get all four mount points lined up, and 3 out 4 isn't going to equal a drivable car. I'm now all but certain that I should have used the vise-grip technique, as I'd have the side back together by now. I think if the vise-grip crowd knew it was as easy as this video showed it to be, they'd just drop the swing arm. Editing out the hard parts is cheating. And it appears to me as if it was done in this video. If so, please, no more job laundering.

[@isitgoodtodo2834]

fml when i tried this 2 bolts wont even come out at last i did it one side took 4 hours

[@ronfowler9563]

Will replacing the ball joints fix my "squaking" issue?

[@fcpeuro]

Hello Ron, replacing ball joints will help eliminate clunking noises and vibration from the front of the vehicle.

[@ronfowler9563]

Sorry i should have been more clear.. i have squeaking in the rear

[@thrty8street]

Do you need an alignment after this?

[@fcpeuro]

It wouldn't be 100 percent necessary but wouldn't be a bad idea to have the car aligned afterwards.

[@douglasgower3266]

good, well explained video, thanks

[@chahine9863]

Bien expliqué merci

[@B0bbobington]

good job

[@izahariev96]

thank you

[@fcpeuro]

You are welcome!

[@lowcash1000]

replacing idler pulley on 2000 Volvo s80