How to replace Brake Fluid on Toyota\Lexus including HYBRIDS and more

[@stephenbay9564]

I have used this vacuum method for many years now. However, on my 2007 ES350, the rear brakes are most difficult. It would take 20 minutes to fill the container twice. Bubbles and bubbles forever. I solved the problem by applying a small bead of high vacuum silicone grease around the top of the bleeder. I get NO air bubbles, and fill the container in just a few minutes. For what all that may be worth to you.

[@TheCarCareNut]

Good tip. Pinned. Any recommendation for others which brand or where did you buy the grease?

[@stephenbay9564]

@@TheCarCareNut Just let me say, when you see all those bubbles, you already know that that is air sneaking past the bleeder....but consider, it's sneaking past - and going in to the caliper. And I never was able to get a truly hard pedal, and I was thinking it was because ALL the air that snuck in, did not get vacuumed out. So I tried standard dielectric grease first, and it worked to say 80-90%. A big improvement after seeing all those bubbles. But there still were a number of very tiny bubbles. Was never able to have a 100% clear stream. I believe the viscosity of the std. dielectric grease was too thin. Then I tried Dow Corning High Vacuum grease....and.....NO more bubbles AND, I could pump up the Mity-Vac ONCE, and it would maintain the vacuum long enough to almost fill the container. After making this change-over to the high vac. grease, and doing the bleeding on all four wheels, I finally had a rock-hard brake pedal. Amazon sells the grease: www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-High-Vacuum-Grease/dp/B0857KKVR8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=22SNQXGEO4I3J&dchild=1&keywords=high+vacuum+grease&qid=1635940832&sprefix=high+vacuum+%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOUhIVVdQNVVXUUkyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQyMjM4MU9CQ0NOSEQ1UU5PTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjI5NTc0QVo3SlI4RkswTjI5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[@stephenbay9564]

@@TheCarCareNut You can also use CRC Silaramic brake grease. You WANT to use silicone based whatever, and not mineral based. Some "may" wick in on the bleeder threads, and this stuff will be safe. And at least will this CRC Silaramic (100% pure silicone) brake grease you won't have buy something just for the bleeders.

[@zippy0n942]

@@stephenbay9564 so literally just put this grease on the threads as you are bleeding the brakes?

[@stephenbay9564]

@@zippy0n942 Not exactly. What you do is crack the bleeder so that it's loose, and then apply a bead of the grease at the base of the bleeder. You don't want air to get in by way of the threads of the bleeder, so you put the grease on the top, just below the hex portion of the bleeder. That's where the air is sneaking in.

[@JP_6986]

When doing as 1 man (77 years old retired engineer). I set up a simple battery based Ring camera on a tripod. The camera was focused closely to the side of the plastic brake fluid reservoir so I could monitor the level and assure not to reach a critical low level while I worked at each wheel location. I have a 2014 RX350 FWD & 2015 RX350 AWD and really value this excellent web site which I have used since its inception. Keep up the good information flow, it is invaluable!

[@adanphu4325]

Same here, I have an engineering degree and seeings nice and good designs are really fun. When teaching people like this without showing them nice and good designs, they can get so confused.

[@Tahara-Aichi]

Best channel for Toyota lexus owners. This guy is an asset.

[@grandpacarbuff]

It was mentioned to keep the air pump's container upright. So TRUE! One way to do this is to place it in a glass jar...that will hold it upright as you handle the pump.

[@scottdowler8316]

A quick tip! When pumping up the brakes to reseat the brakes pads when you are done use very small shorrt pumps. If you push the pedal to the floor you can send the seal in the master cylinder into areas it's not used to going and it can damage the seal. I've seen many older cars come back with.a bad master cylinder because the tech pushed the pedal to the floor when pumping it up and there may be a defect of corrosion towards the very bottom because the brakes never go down that far under normal use and the seal can be damaged.

[@steveolive9991]

that's why some mechanics will not do a brake job without rebuilding or replacing the master cylinder.

[@marcomurillo9125]

@scottdownler8316 Do I need to pump up the brake pedal every time I finished a side to reset the brake pads, or when I Am done with the four of them?? Thank you!!

[@scottdowler8316]

⁠ you can pump all the brakes at the end of your brake job. Just don’t push the pedal all the way to the floor. You want to pump the brake about the normal distance that you would when using them

[@tedjohnson64]

That’s an excellent tip (using multiple short strokes). I came across that same tip in a car repair book once, and they had one slight enhancement: temporarily put a small section of wood under the brake pedal, to avoid using the end range of pedal travel.

[@Хосе-ш4д]

Great tip. I did brakes on my 2009 Vibe GT and started the car I just started pumping. Wish I had seen this message before 😬

[@ChrisWilliams-pu8pj]

I have worked on cars for years and still learn when I watch your videos. Thank you!

[@Q-tip-rh2lm]

This video is great. My friend and I watched this video before we replaced his brake fluid. It worked 100%

[@franklopeziilmtmti603]

I didn't 😢

[@timothy5974]

Oh man you ROCK!! New to Hybrids and my Daughter just got her first job in Chicago, so I’m going through her vehicle. Thanks for the many many hours of time doing your channel. It is much appreciated by all of here in your community.

[@nostradamus7648]

Hope she’s enjoying all of Clueless Joe’s “visitors” we’re sending from Texas to that great “Sanctuary City”

[@gregsantos9731]

Yes, very well said. 👍😊

[@shaileshgupta]

@@nostradamus7648.You are full of it. If Republicans wanted to stop illegal immigration, all they have to do is to lock up the owner of the business for the same number of days someone without appropriate documentation has been working at the company. The problem will be solved in six months. Specimens like you have to understand that Republicans don’t want to end illegal immigration. Undocumented workers are the invisible glue which keeps the economy humming. It keeps the wages low and makes the companies more profitable. If you like, I can hire you to clean toilets for $1 per toilet.

[@slothypunk]

@@nostradamus7648 Why are you so salty? Of all great things you can do, you choose to be a jack hole!

[@stephenbay9564]

You know if I write a few more comments on this topic, you might start thinking of me as a brake bleed fanatic. So here is more. Be very careful handling the containers of brake fluid, to not shake them in any way. Put some brake fluid in a small glass jar, and shake it up. See all the micro-tiny bubbles (or air) that form in the fluid mixture. Now set the jar down and let it sit overnight. Tomorrow there will still be some bubbles in the mixture. You do not want to put fluid in to a system, that already has air in it. So don't shake the bottle. Additionally, please note all the bubbles that form in the fluid, the next time you just pour brake fluid into a master cylinder. Same thing here. If you are doing a brake bleeding, THAT fluid (now filled with tiny air bubbles) is going to be sucked into the lines by the vacuum bleeding going on. It's not going to just sit in the M/C and "settle" over time. Pour the fluid into the M/C very slowly by letting it drain in by using a funnel, while gently pouring on the inside of the funnel, not directly down the center. The fluid "flows" in, as opposed to being just poured, and no bubbles are formed. Can you visualized a cube that is 1/8" square? That much air in any part of the system, will cause a slightly soft, as opposed to rock hard pedal. Those tiny bubbles really add up quickly.

[@TheCRTman]

Thank you for the tip!

[@stanislav9608]

This is really a great tip. Thanks a lot for your advice.

[@cchemmes-seeseeart3948]

would it work to use a needle tip syringe, fill it, then tip upside down, & bleed out the air first; like the process used when injecting filled syringes into people?

[@salmanjaved537]

You know what. I've started to feel confident like being a mechanic. Even though I don't DIY it, now I can oversee what the mechanic is doing down there or wherever the work is. You've been a great help all along my learning journey and I send you my sincere gratitude for making me learn a little bit more. I don't sit aside like an idiot at the mercy of the mechanic. Please don't take me wrong but then there still are some mechanics out there who are in the fleecing business and not into repairing. Haha. Thanks a lot.

[@mugensamurai]

Finally someone that teaches you how to do it the right way. Thank you!

[@petershen1984]

I just came back from the dealer shop! I'm glad you told us even they don't use the scan tool to purge the whole brake system.

[@sunilayya8948]

Many brands other than toyota recommend the changing of brake fluid every 2 years or 25,000 miles. Great video as usual.

[@marcusa.rivera6377]

....and every 12 months if you live near the coast/beach area!

[@AEVMU]

@@marcusa.rivera6377 Never seen that. What brands suggest that?

[@scallywag1716]

Never head 2 years..always heard every 5 years is about right.

[@jameskirby9369]

@@AEVMUI had an 08 Chrysler Town & Country that was every 2 years

[@boysent]

​@@AEVMUBMW

[@Oo-IIII-oO]

You're a good teacher and know how to explain things in a way that easy to understand. (like explaining why not just how)

[@bradbrown7555]

Great point on not getting every drop. Oil changes are the same way. A measurable amount is always left behind in the passageways, pump, etc.

[@Zeek800]

So glad I watched this a second time. My Highlander is 5.5 years old and even though the rear pads and rotors were changed out just over a year ago because the calliper seized ( not sure if it was the slide pins or the piston ) the front pads were changed out at just under 50,000 Kim’s ( 30,000 miles) because the calliper slide pins seized. The brake fluid is just a 1/4 inch below max but the brake pedal is spongy. Even new the pedal wasn’t what I would call firm. I’m changing out the front rotors and pads in the next couple weeks and after cleaning the slide pins a couple weeks ago I found the seal / boot on one of the pistons on the left front had a piece the size of an almond missing.. I’ll be doing the manual bleed on the new calliper and the other side which just needs a rotor and pads. Now I’m thinking about changing out the brake fluid in the whole system so I’ll be buying this or another pump soon.

[@JoeCole12]

I’ve been doing it the old fashion way for yrs. I wanted to support the channel and bought your pump. It works great! Thanks for all that you do!

[@michelma9924]

Thank you AMD. I just replaced the brake fluid on my 2014 Lexus ES 300h and I exactly followed your instruction( I even locked the doors to avoid accidentally opening). I used the exact same Mityvac tool(MV8000) for the job and Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid which was about 750 ml in total. I tightened the bleeder screws to 6 ft-lbs/72 lb-in with a 1/4 drive TPMS Torque Wrench. I also serviced the brake system( inspection/cleaning and lubricating the caliper guide pins etc.). My next job would be replacing the coolant for both the radiator, inverter and transaxle fluid( no mention on the service manual ) as it would be ten years according to the service manual. Thanks again and take care.

[@yeester2461]

I have that same bleeder kit I bought almost 4 years ago and thought it was defective because I kept seeing bubbles like in the video. Thanks for sharing on how to use it. I will use it on my next brake fluid change again instead of the tube and bottle and extra helper method.

[@Sanbeno]

Thank you!!! I had recently watched a video by someone else telling me to do the opposite with my prius. He was saying to use pump to easily change the brake fluid. I am so glad I watched your video before i started. You saved me from possibly having a big mess on my hands.

[@lifetimedreamvideos985]

I've always done the brake bleeding with the brake pedal. I put tubing on the slave cylinder bleeder (farthest from the master cylinder first (right rear, left rear, right front, left front, in that order ... decreasing distance from the master cylinder). Using this method, after a few pumps, there is fluid in a glass jar sitting on the floor below the bleed valve. Once the tubing in the jar is covered, no air can get back into the brake slave cylinder. You can see that the tubing has absolutely no bubbles. I use a small enough vinyl tubing, that it's a little hard to get on. No air leaks are possible, as long as the tubing hasn't dried out (old). I did use the same tubing for this for a number of years without it becoming hardened. I stored it in doubled plastic bags. Close the bleeder valve before removing the tubing.

[@longnguyen-zu1qe]

❤Good to know that the gravity method to purge the brake system 😊

[@patrickcallihan]

Thank you for the video. This is by far the best I've seen on this topic. I've been replacing brakes on my cars for almost 40 years and still learned a lot from this video. I have a hybrid Lexus and did not know that I the brake pump runs when the driver side door is opened. Again thank you.

[@user-zd8lc2ns3z]

Will it still run if you disconnect the battery?

[@mrdragancelan]

@@user-zd8lc2ns3z No, it won't.

[@robertocastaneda1692]

Great videos. You have saved me lots of money with the brake fluid replacement costs and with a squeaky seal on the sunroof

[@superdude4402]

Thank you! Years ago I did an old vehicle and made all the mistakes you talked about. Thought all the bubbles was air in my system, I went thru 2-3 bottles of brake fluid and finally found out that was normal.

[@paulc2548]

Excellent instruction... I bleed my brake the old fashion way (get my trusty wife to pump the brake pedal). But this is better so I don't have to ask my wife to do it with me and I learned one thing from this video... let it drips a little before tightening up the bleeder screen. If I don't see this video, I would have tighten up the screw before disconnecting the hose from the bleeder. BTW, I just bought the brake bleeder kits (via your link) from your Amazon store. Thank you.

[@platae_cos]

Thank you so much for this and all your maintenance videos. My Corolla hybrid just got out of warranty and I don't plan to continue bringing it for basic maintenance at the dealer. I was worried about it being a hybrid and that making basic maintenance would be more difficult, but it definitely isn't and your videos have helped me get the confidence to work in my hybrid as I would do in any of my other cars.

[@CoreyDavis01]

Thank you for the information on hybrids! I had no idea that they would require a different procedure

[@azzurroday9730]

I bought that Mityvac from your Amazon link, that thing works like a charm. I have been asking my wife or my son to pump the brake before, this is a lot easier! Thank you!

[@brianw6645]

For the first time since I bought my 2009 Prius (Gen 2) I was able to successfully flush my entire brake system thanks to your video. Only point of note for me is that the fluid came out much slower than I thought it would. The entire process took me about 2 hours. But in the end everything is working great. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

[@nooral-deenfoudeh4857]

I never flushed the brake fluid on my prius, would it hurt the system if I changed it after 185k miles?

[@brianw6645]

@@nooral-deenfoudeh4857 I changed mine for the first time at 186k miles about 2 months ago, and everything seems to be working great. Just be sure to follow the instructions in this video carefully.

[@nooral-deenfoudeh4857]

@@brianw6645 Thanks a lot

[@mattb9664]

Thanks for the how-to with a Mityvac - this method is way way better than using the clunky pneumatic brake bleeder bottle and air compressor. I emptied out 3-4 container 'vials' in about 3 minutes. With my old pneumatic bleeder bottle, it would take about an hour to bleed the whole vehicle because the my compressor was a little small. Perfect pedal feel that's way better than the factory-feel.

[@brucewayne2773]

Excellent video in every way, I bought the tester, did not know there was such a tool. Thanks AMD, you are the best👍👍

[@nostradamus7648]

Robin is a minor. Stop it.

[@joewigginsfortynine]

I have changed brake fluid on a number of makes of cars. I have always used the two man system. One works the brake pedal and the other works the bleeder screw. That is the way I was taught in mechanics school 45 years ago.

[@MattJonesYT]

I coat the bleeder screws with silicone paste to keep them from rusting out. The bleeder cap leaves a lot of exposed metal.

[@tardeliesmagic]

I use marine grade grease.

[@MarzNet256]

Great tip!

[@LAactor]

Make sure not to use the popular purple permatex if you don't want any rubber it touches to swell. They put out an updated product to solve that issue. Still safe to use on metal such as slide pins that don't have the rubber dampener and under the stainless hardware on calipers. Just not on the piston surface that has the boot.

[@michaelmounts1269]

Great video...just replaced pads and rotors on my gen 4 prius...biggest surprise was frkn caliper pins were frozen! Glad I didn't wait.

[@tommyroam9863]

I really appreciate all the videos you've put out. I like wrenching on my vehicles for maintenance. It so happens that the lead Toyota mechanic for the local dealership is my next door neighbor and I can bounce things off him as well. I appreciate the leads up on the moisture content testing tool as well. I'll be getting one ASAP.

[@abka5532]

Honesty is the best policy Much appreciated

[@AcidFlash123]

Just wanted to suggest when using one of those fluid testers you should thoroughly rinse and clean it afterwards as the brake fluid sitting on there for an extended time can damage it and may not be able to use it next time.

[@thomasschmitt9669]

Hi, I would like to thank you for all your effort! I am located in Germany and driving a RX450h which is a really exotic car in my country. The Lexus/Toyota dealers charge a lot also for simple tasks so I am very glad that you help out with some DIY procedures. Extremely valuable for me as there is no real german community for these great and reliable cars. (I have a Mercedes as well, who needs five times more "attendance" as the Lexus does. )

[@jeffwilliams9086]

Another great video! I have changed all the fluids in my 2008 Tundra using your videos, thank you so much! I sincerely wished all mechanics were as competent, honest, and practical as you are, the world would be a better place!

[@gregsantos9731]

Why is it when i watching your very nice videos i feels more empowered, secure and motivated? Is it because you really pleasantly and truthfully explains your topic? Oh well, anyways, thank you very Much because every time i look for an answer on a certain car topic your there. Cheers!

[@mirjunior9864]

Thanks for excellent, comprehensive video! I tried this week this vacuum method. Works great to just replace the brake fluid but as for bleeding I don't trust it for 100%. Having the fluid replaced I had to still bleed with one man pressure method. With vacuum pump you're never sure wherher to stop after 3, 5 drops or more. No good to leave the system under negative pressure and leting the air enter the bleader is wrong either... So! I found that using this method to replace fluid is fast and conveniant, esp. with sealing the bleader with silicone grease /great comment from Stephen Bay/, final step bleeding with brake pedal and everything will be fine :-) The bottle volume is just enough so you don't forget to fill up the master cylinder before moving to next wheel. Regards!

[@tompurtell4073]

Thanks for the video, I'm going to use my Branick 300 for the second time tomorrow. I'll be bleeding my daughters 2007 Camry Hybrid brakes tomorrow. I'll follow your steps for keeping the car off and key away from car, do not open the drivers door, I won't open bleeder on stroke simulator and I may even disconnect the negative terminal on the battery (probably not) I had replaced all four calipers, rotors and brake pads 8 months ago and just bleed each wheel. Great video.

[@JrSpitty]

I feel like color of brake fluid is a good indicator of the quality regardless of actual moisture content. After 3-5 years you definitely can see its age in color, which most service intervals are supposed to be 2 years for a complete exchange. (they recommend changing it well before the fluid "ages" and darkens) I am a dealer technician as well and I work with used cars so I see a lot of the neglect from people who don't service their brake system. Usually in the long run the vehicle will be fine as long as it isn't being tracked or driven hard on the brakes, but you will see calipers eventually seize up and seals go bad. The recommendation is more for vehicle longevity and liability then it is for actual safety.

[@kennethscholz6027]

Agreed, we've suffered frozen calipers on used cars whose fluid was too old.

[@citnetwork5407]

Wonderful work, sir!! Another small tip: When you're done with a particular caliper and you've disconnected the Miti-vac hose and tightened the valve, take a can of Brake Cleaner with the spray stick, stick the stick (no, really) into the bleeder nipple and give it quick shot of cleaner to evacuate any left over fluid in the nipple barrel. Makes the next session much easier as there won't be any old congealed fluid left in the barrel. Give it a minute or three to dry completely before replacing the rubber cap on the bleeder valve, and life is good...

[@92Pony]

Very glad to come across this video. I really, REALLY need to do this on my '04 Camry with 278k on it. It still has original, never changed fluid in it.

[@wirenut3020]

Uh, yes , you’re due!

[@Winnspeed]

What a great channel. Thank you so much for spreading your knowledge. There’s a lot of people that take pride in doing things themselves. Couldn’t do it with out your help!

[@ST-xc3qw]

Great video I have one of these pumps and managed to get some break fluid into the plunger part. Took it apart cleaned with break cleaner and used a small amount of silicone lube to lubricator the o ring and it’s worked just fine since then

[@stendecstretcher5678]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I don't have the confidence to do it, so my local Toyota dealer here in Australia changed the brake and clutch fluid on my 98 Corolla for $95 AUD. I was happy with that.

[@waitingforparts57]

Great stuff, again! Your videos are top notch with loads of information without the dramatics others channels peddle. I don't own a Toyota but watch your channel because of your knowledge and presentation. Stay well and safe God Bless.

[@luptonpittman6520]

Great video, thank you. I wasn’t aware that letting it drip a bit after and then closing it was the proper way. I was thought you had to close it while it was under vacuum pressure. I did it just like you showed and it stops great.

[@obsesivegamer]

thats what i thought, you close the valve when you lose pressure and before you take it off.. never seen anyone let it drip open like that.

[@ToolsOutsideTheBox]

1. That vacuum pump is available at Harbor Freight, that’s where I got mine. 2. I prefer to use a turkey baster to siphon out the master cylinder or even the power steering reservoir. (Old school trick) 3. I have a ‘12 XLE Hybrid. I swapped out the front rotors and calipers for the dual piston Highlander setup. I won’t go into details. But I accidentally used the pump to bleed the lines and it was the awesomest experience ever! 🤣 5. I do the color test. However, I kinda cheat and just siphon the master and refill it. The fact that some contaminants are making it back to the master, tells me that at least some of the fluid is circulating. 5. When replacing pads or shoes, I like to crack open the bleeder before compressing the piston back in. I find that doing so usually evacuates the worst of the fluid. Also, with some manufacturers, not doing so can damage the ABS module.

[@ctrlaltdebug]

Fluid does not circulate, but physics dictate that contaminants and fresh corrosion inhibitors will diffuse and equalize concentrations. So it's probably good enough.

[@mattfrazee1890]

You are the best sir. I have learned much from your videos and your approach to instructing us is easy to understand and effective. Thank you!

[@reikisponge]

Thanks for making this thorough video. Amazing production! I just did it last night from from 11pm to 3am (taking breaks in between each wheel.). 2012 Camry hybrid master cylinder reservoir seems to have upper and lower compartments. I couldn't get thru the lower part(below Min line) because there's a plastic barrier between the two compartments. It's one piece, nothing can't be removed (if I saw it right). So I just pumped out as much as I could. Also used the vacuum tool you recommended. I had to improvise to get through the tiny slit entry and use an attachment came with the vacuum pump, and connect to a tiny straw (taken from a tiny covid test nose swab stick, which is hollow like a straw) in order to get into the upper master cylinder compartment. Maybe coffee stir straw stick might work too. Anyway, it was a success. I disconnected the battery to be safe. Thanks so much AMD!

[@paulnick9092]

This was an amazing video. You showed every step clearly, up to draining all the fluid from all 4 wheels. Then you talked about pumping the brakes. I assume I need to fill the master cylinder, pump the brakes, and add more fluid pump again and again until it is full pedal and the MC is full. I did not see that in the video so I am double-checking. My wife would never forgive me if her demise was because her brakes failed after I worked on it.

[@wayditay9288]

she probably wouldn't be around to forgive you 🙃

[@weekaung]

Excellent video CCNut. Years back didn’t really know how to properly do a brake caliper replacement on my bike and did not bleed it properly, had a minor accident as a result of brake fail at a sudden stop. So never had the courage to do brake fluid replacement on my car even after watching countless videos where they pump the master cylinder manually by pressing on the brakes. Always afraid that I might by mistake introduce air into the system. Your video with the tool to do the job looks much more fail safe. I will most probably attempt this job the next time, in 2 years I guess as I had just asked the shop to do it for me. Thank you for your very informative and useful videos.

[@robthompson343]

Hello CCN, thanks again for another great teaching moment. I pulled all the wheels and calipers to evaluate brake wear (2007 RX400H, also replaced the front Right strut and axle boot, no problems doing this but afterwards my VSC light, brake light, and traction control light came on. Scan gauge shows no errors. All suggestions will be helpful. The only thing i did w the calipers was to compress them to get them back in easier. Thank you!

[@stephenbay9564]

One other thought....I start with the rear brakes, and then do the fronts. Not sure if it really matters, since each has its own feed from the ABS unit. But I do repeat the filling of the container at each wheel, until I see all NEW brake fluid.....and do this on all 4 wheels. Lexus has this as "scheduled maintenance" at every 20k.....which may be excessive, but it takes so little time, and I still have the (2007) car, so to me it's worth the trouble. This is the fist car I took the time to do the changing of the fluid, and so far the calipers seem to move smooth (when I put new brake pads in), which says to me there must not be much corrosion in them. Thanks for your thoughts about all this in this video!

[@coloradoboo1071]

I just got my wife’s 2017 Prius brakes bled. Even though I have a good scanner, I disconnected the battery and did it old school with the same suction tool you have…worked great!! I did a test drive after and got the dreaded ICS warning when first going but it went away after a few restarts and I have no check engine light.

[@mikes7574]

did you pump and press the brake pedal while you opened the bleed nut? or just opened the bleed nut and vacuum it?

[@marcusa.rivera6377]

I use the pushed bleed method. it's effective on the first try. Biggest concern is to protect the ABS unit because this is a very expensive part to replaced.

[@bogieman101]

AMD, I have watched ALL your videos and appreciate the heck out of them. That said, I have a 2013 Avalon Hybrid Limited with 96K miles and it has been the best car we have ever had. It is time for the coolant changes and I am going to flush the brake fluid. I am a member of a Toyota Hybrid forum and a guy on there posted info from a service manual and he said DO NOT manually bleed the brakes on the 2013 Avalon Hybrid, that it would do thousands of dollars of damage with out using the TechStream. Please reaffirm that I can bleed the brakes, and flush coolant in radiator and inverter without TechStream and without doing any harm. I changed transmission fluid at 35K so I know that works. I hate to ask you specifics like this because I'm sure you get them all the time, but this car is in too good of condition for me to screw it up.

[@houselin3625]

Is there an answer to this? I've been wanting to do DIY on my 2006 highlander hybrid but was concerned after reading the forum (Toyota nation). Probably the same guy. It would be nice to be able to do DIY on hybrids.

[@bogieman101]

@@houselin3625 On my 2013 Avalon Hybrid, I have bled the brakes (like in CCN's procedure) and it took quite awhile with the vacuum pump, replaced the coolant in radiator and hybrid system, drained and filled the transmission fluid (twice), replaced all the TPMS sensors, spark plugs and engine oil of course. The hybrid cooling system was the hairiest, because you put car in maintenance mode (I think that is what it is called) to run the pump. CCN has diy's on all this. Other than filter changes and wiper blades, I think that is it. I was super careful to do what CNN said and I have had no problems. I can't speak for your highlander. I forgot, I also cleaned and lubed the disc brake components, pads were in great shape so haven't changed them yet.

[@toninocars]

Great video, thanks . I do replace on hybrid with a help from my gf, old school style and never have any issues.

[@roryobrien2419]

Thanks for your efforts, I admire your patience with the comments.

[@smokyclouds5734]

Great Video, and I’m so glad you went over this. One of my friends thought I was crazy for doing this to my car. I believe in preventive maintenance on anything. Just like you said in this video. If you plan on keeping you car for more than 3 years, then do it. Keep up the great videos. Very useful info, and thank you for sharing.

[@nostradamus7648]

Tell him he's crazy for NOT maintaining his car.

[@gabrielmungwa6605]

😊😊

[@m-rezaabazar-ghafari8757]

Thank you for a very very very important maintenance procedure. Reason being lots of cars on the road today and most have pretty bad brake system due to lack of maintenance. Evert time I buy a used car, I see that brake system on it is crying due to lake of maintenance.

[@mikechiodetti4482]

I have a vacuum unit I've used on many vehicles and for many years. It does require an air compressor which I have and use with this tool and other air tools. I change fluid in my vehicles about every two years with Dot 3 or 4 over the counter fluid. It's best to use those black mechanic's gloves like you had on your hands. They're thicker than the blue ones. Also, use eye protection. Like any other fluid, brake fluid can bounce up when poured and will do damage to your eyes. Disconnecting the 12 volt battery on a hybrid is the best idea, just be aware of possible codes that may show up in different modules indicating battery power loss and need to be erased. Also your PCM monitors will show incomplete and require a drive cycle. Thank you for this video!

[@riksim4242]

this is for mechanics and i wouldnt try doing by myself !!! trying to save a buck and end up with a huge problem !! let the proffesionals do this !!!

[@wholeNwon]

Really good. Some things I didn't know. While more heat resistant than DOT3, DOT4 is more hygroscopic, I think. I read that brake fluid actually circulates a little due to heat-induced convection currents. Every 3-4 mo. or so, I empty the reservoir and refill with fresh DOT3. I do this only on very dry days. Each time the fluid removed has been dark (22 yo fluid). Now the fluid is lighter in color (2 yrs later).

[@apfenech]

Super helpful, thank you so much. One thing I didn't catch in the video: how do I know I've gotten all the old fluid out of the lines?

[@calvinvu7258]

I alway referred to your videos before doing maintenances on my '16 Prius. Thank you for all you did!!!

[@sokratisbarbounis5239]

Great video, as always! I also enjoy the comments below because many people of the channel community have great knowledge!

[@speed8701]

Always another great video. FYI: What happens if you put DOT 3 instead of DOT 4? They're used in most modern cars and trucks, because they work with ABS brakes. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3. You can use DOT 4 where DOT 3 is called for, but not the reverse. Using DOT 3 in a DOT 4 brake risks boiling the brake fluid.

[@carlovanrijk4039]

speed8701, that’s good to know! Will be doing a brake bleed in the Spring when the weather gets warmer. 👍🏼

[@norakat]

DOT 3 is less hygroscopic than DOT 4. DOT 3 is approved for my car and most cars meaning boiling point is a non-issue.

[@sambitar8448]

MAY GOD BLESS YOU AND KEEP YOU YOUR PRECAUTIONS ARE WELL IN ORDER; YOU ARE REALLY # 1 MASTER TECHNICIAN.

[@bluefj-wc3vz]

Nice tutorial AMD. I've learned to place pig mats or paper towels under and around master cylinder to catch any inadvertent drips while refilling reservoir. Brake fluid is some nasty stuff like you said.

[@ismaelcarrerojr7124]

I'm new to your channel and learning all I can, just purchase a few thing from your a Amazon store. I have 2016 Toyota highlander I do all the maintenance myself. It might sound crazy but I do every year my own transmission oil and filter change since it's a seal transmission I asked a Toyota dealership how much would it cost me change the oil and just the oil would cost $390 dollars I was afraid to ask how much more would it cost with the filter. So I did my research bought the oil, the filter with gasket and a $150 dollar scanner for the temperature four years later never had a problem. Like you have said a few times I'm one of those people that is planning to keep my car for a very long time. Thank you for your time and videos God bless.

[@tomdowling3994]

Will you please make a video showing safe jacking points? Where to place floor jacks, when lifting so that we can place a jack stand under the pinch welds. Also, when jacking at the pinch welds, where to safely place jack stands under the chassis, and control arms.

[@beri232]

Just look in your manual. If you don’t have a manual, Google jacking points or jackstand points for your make and model and someone on some forum has likely already entered a diagram answering you question.

[@meesmetsast462]

I changed the brake fluid in all my cars to DOT 5.1. IT is a brake fluid for hydraulic brake and clutch systems with a boiling point of at least 260 °C and an extremely high wet boiling point of at least 180 °C. Because of the low viscosity at low temperatures, particularly suitable for additional systems, such as ABS and ASR.

[@stanislav9608]

...but 5.1 absorbs water faster than Dot 3. So, you are gaining and losing at the same time

[@meesmetsast462]

Oh, my... Asked ChatGPT: Yes, brake fluid classified as DOT 5.1 does absorb water. DOT 5.1 brake fluid is glycol-based, similar to DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. This means it is hygroscopic, which is the property of absorbing moisture from the air over time. The absorption of water by DOT 5.1 brake fluid can lower the boiling point of the fluid, potentially leading to decreased braking performance under heavy braking conditions. Because of this, regular maintenance and periodic replacement of the brake fluid are recommended to ensure optimal braking performance. It's important to note that DOT 5.1 should not be confused with DOT 5 brake fluid, which is silicone-based and does not absorb water.

[@donw3912]

As always a great video:-) The only thing i can think of to add is start with the right rear as it's furthest from the master and work your way to LR, RF and left front finally. As for the use of older new/opened bottles...i would use it to help flush if the fluid being replaced is really old or otherwise contaminated to help push the bad out and chase it with freshly opened fluid to finish off the job.

[@fidiusjwhoopie]

def should be mentioned!

[@slothypunk]

There are many "religion" of car maintenance out there, but I have experienced it myself that bleeding from the furthest is more of a "religion" of maintenance. Even if you change it from random position as what I did from the beginning of time I bleed the fluid, as long as you bleed it, your brake fluid will be fine. How I know it works? CC nut do it, I do it myself, less BS I have to remember!

[@user-ff5zf7gi6y]

After watching this video, I tried bleeding my 2011 Camry Hybrid using the older two-person method since I didn't have a brake vaccuum tool like MightVac at that time. I had the other person get in the car and made sure the door wasn't opened during the procedure and the key was far from the car. I did not, however, disconnect the accessory battery. When I had him press on the brake pedal and opened the bleeder valve on the right rear caliper to force fluid out, this was enough to cause the pump to run and cause several spurts of fluid to come flying out of the bleeder screw (and attached tubing) into my collection jar. He said the brake pedal didn't even go down when this happened. Upon further attempts to re-open the bleeder screw and have him press down on the pedal, we could not get any more fluid to come out, so I tightened the bleeder screw, made sure the master cylinder reservoir was topped off, and test drove the car. The brake pedal is now soft and these lights are now displayed on the dashboard: Brake light, ABS light, traction control light and an exclamation point light. I have since obtained a MightVac tool like the one in this video. If I follow the steps in this video with the MightVac do I have a chance at removing the air from the system, or am I hopeless?

[@CMDR_Birb]

Go to the dealer.

[@lynzoido]

And.. to be totally honest. I've worked on tons of lexi and toys. And e.g. I would reverse bleed (vacuum sucking thru bleeders) GS, but won't LS. Or tundra. Or prius. Those ones have very gentle EBC units and I've heard of damage induced by forced reverse bleeding (even with 'ebc invalid' performed). On these I usually do pressure bleed, applying gentle air pressure to the tank. Feels more natural and no complaints. Just sharing personal exp

[@haywardkong1213]

I just got a 2010 Prius with 99K miles and will bleed the brakes. I was considering doing a vacuum bleed since I have MityVac MV6835 since I've been doing on my 2005 Scion tC 179K miles and. 2014 Subaru Outback 130K miles.. Got the MV6835 2 years ago when it was on sale on amazon for $129.. Then I learned about Pressure bleeding which seem to be preferred by some Subaru techs. I was thinking to get Motive pressure bleeder with adapters that work for Toyotas and I think one more for Subarus. What Pressure would you suggest to set for the Motive for the Prius ?

[@stanislav9608]

Excellent video. I was using for years one man method, and it worked very well. I was attaching the clear tube over the valve and bubbles were coming only with old fluid. As soon as new fluid was bleeding out, the bubbles disappeared, and I was getting solid stream. This method worked for me, but it was annoying running around the vehicle to pump the brake pedal. After watching this video, I am going to purchase Mityvac MV8500 and make changing the brake fluid pleasant process. One thing only buzzer me - I don't like and don't want to see those bubbles through all bleeding process. I am thinking to use 3M silicone or different tapes to stop the air sneaking at black bleeding connector. I think it is not fitting very tight. Did anybody try to connect clear vinyl hose straight to the bleeder valve. In the video, clear vinyl hose looks smaller in diameter and might fit tighter over the bleeding valve. I really like this method but have to do all what is possible to eliminate those bubbles. I will appreciate all advises from DIYselfers.

[@RG615]

Great informative common sense and you sir are a master mechanic which I appreciate you blessing us with sharing how to properly do this procedure. God bless 😉🙏✌️

[@lesterpenner8786]

I replaced the power steering fluid on my Lexus ES 350 . I used an old shampoo bottle pump. I sucked the old fluid out and kept adding new fluid in while steering both ways back and forth. By the time most of the 2nd liter was used up the fluid looked nice and clean. Only cost was the 2 bottles from Toyota.

[@spinb]

Great video. Thank you. Any chance we'll see a neat and easy way to do a proper power steering flush for our older Toyotas?

[@glasser2819]

use a vacuum extractor. Beware steering bowl has a non-serviceable strainer built-in its inlet track - Replace for best flow to feed the pump.

[@matrout61]

Thanks for all the insight here. I came here specifically for the instructions on a hybrid Toyota; I have a 2013 Avalon. The shop manual I reviewed had a warning: "Techstream must be used for air bleeding. If it is not used, the air bleeding will be incomplete, which is hazardous and may lead to an accident." So the key takeaway got from this is to disconnect the battery to ensure the electronic pump is not activated during this procedure. One question I did have was the bleeding wheel sequence. Is there one here? The service manual did not listed one as well. Thanks again.

[@aamiryousuf90]

My heartfelt gratitude for such an educational video. Thank you AMD

[@flopro7332]

Hello back Amd , I so enjoy your videos, you're a wealth of knowledge and make people more confident about taking on a job on cars, I know I do. Thank you again.

[@chrissmithz314]

Good video, appreciate all that you do. Was thinking about gravity bleeding when the time came, but I think I might pick up that mightyvac tool or something similar. Glad you pointed out that the bubbles are normal, would've bugged me out.

[@glasser2819]

it's best to use a pressure cap adapter over the master to push clean fluid down to lines... vacuuming bubbles sucks!!

[@dtna]

I seemed to have missed this video. You're the best Armando!

[@justus2881]

Very well done indeed! Your competence, wisdom (experiential or otherwise) and candor are greatly appreciated, and as others have mentioned, thank you very much for making the effort to present the facts and techniques so well! Much appreciated!

[@SubieMatt]

What's the reason for letting the brake fluid drip before tightening bleeder screw? Is that to let the vacuum equalize?

[@fridayinlove]

at 15:22 you loosened the nut with the nozzle exposed - how can we make sure there's no air seeping in the system? I know with the hydraulic pressure inside, air getting in is not likely, but just keep worrying

[@thingshappen9199]

I'm wondering the same thing but my caps were all torn. Hopefully that doesn't matter much.

[@vikingtu]

Thanks for your videos. I need to change the brake fluid in my 07 Prius. Very informative.

[@MarzNet256]

Hello! I get my wife to push pedal for brake flush while I work the bleeder. Excellent video. However, I noticed you were wearing hand but not eye protection. I injured my eyes a couple of times in my career as a carpenter so I'm kinda uptight about PPE.

[@nymack66]

After watching this video I now figured my 2006 Silverado is due for a change. Nice info as always.

[@christianmondragon7006]

Great video. Do you have to start from the furthest wheel from the master cylinder? I have heard others say that.

[@TheCarCareNut]

It’s not required at all. But it’s good practice to work around the car to prevent skipping wheels

[@MrPeterJHarrison]

That's an older maxim from before ABS before that. In very old cars the brakes for all four wheels used to be fed off the same hydraulic line, and bleeding back-to-front was more important. Brake hydraulics have gone through a couple evolutions since then. Now, with ABS systems, the master cylinder feeds into the ABS brake controller so it can control braking to each wheel individually and the brake lines go from there to each individual wheel.

[@ezezmoon]

toyota ouner honestly recomend this channel.good job Mr. Car care nut.

[@yurnov]

One additional point, you can use brake fluid DOT4, DOT3, and DOT5.1, all of them are mixable and the general rule is that you can use fluid specified on the cap or higher (means that you can use DOT4 or DOT5.1 when you have DOT3 on the cap, or you can use DOT5.1 when you have DOT4 on cap). It is possible to use a "lower" DOT than specified, but it is not recommended as a lower DOT has a lower boiling point. BUT NEVER MIX DOT5 with DOT4 or DOT3, it's a completely different incompatible fluid. DOT5.1 is mixable and compatible with DOT3 and DOT4, but DOT5 is not. On the European market, we have also fluids called DOT4+ or DOT4 LV (low viscosity) or DOT4 Class 6 which is DOT4 fluid with lower viscosity at low temperatures that are recommended for modern brake systems with stability and traction controls on regions where winter temperature is low. Technically that is fluid under standard ISO 4925 Class 6. Viscosity at the high temperature is the same as normal DOT4.

[@norakat]

DOT 4 is more hygroscopic than DOT 3

[@stanislav9608]

@@norakat ...and 5.1 is more hygroscopic than Dot 4

[@bradcdavis00]

I, too, have a MityVac that I used to replace brake fluid in my old MB years ago. I was glad to view this video as a refresher since I plan to change the fluid in my Sienna. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.

[@johna2524]

Been doing brakes for a long time with the MityVac (Just wish the reservoir was a little bigger) and learned a lot! 1. Doesn't matter which wheel to start on when just replacing fluid. 2. Leave the bleeder nipple open for a few drops to drip out instead of closing bleeder under vacuum and a lot more! Thanks Toyota/Lexus "Rock Star!"

[@N9IWJ]

Make a new reservoir out of a quart jar, drill holes in the top get some nipples at the hardware store in Mount them the size of the hose You can make a nice quart reservoir for about $2

[@norakat]

Why not close it right away? Don’t you introduce air if you pull the hose before it’s closed?

[@tranfamily35]

@@norakat I believe the inside pressure is pushing the fluid out. You want to see drops drop out to ensure no more air inside.

[@stanislav9608]

You can buy bigger MityVac bottle - MV6005 (16oz)

[@polyacanthus]

Thanks. I tried to do it the old fashioned way pumping the pedal on my Honda hybrid and it was like NOPE!! After closing the valve it was fine though, no alarms. I picked up a vacuum pump and finished the job with the proper method.