How to replace Brake Fluid on Toyota\Lexus including HYBRIDS and more

A Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician shares a simple way to replace the brake fluid using simple inexpensive tools on All Toyota\Lexus\Scion models Including Toyota hybrids.
So How to replace Brake Fluid on modern cars with overly complicated ABS\VSC\TRAC systems? Well it's simpler than you think once you know a few precautions included in this video.
This is a comprehensive video covering everything to do with brake fluid in cars. Starting with the characteristics of brake fluid. How to handle and deal with brake fluid.
Then we'll move on to how to test your brake fluid. Most shops just recommend a certain amount of time to replace the fluid however the brake fluid actually needs to be tested to see if replacement is required and often is replaced when not needed.
Toyota Hybrids brake fluid replacement without a scan tool? Yes this is possible! This is a trade secret no one has told you about. If you are just replacing the brake fluid not replacing parts in the brake system, you can actually vacuum bleed it like a normal car. BUT you MUST watch the part of the video for important precautions.
Tools Needed:
8 and 10mm wrench
if removing wheels either 21mm or 22mm socket and ratchet for various toyota models ( You'll need a jack and Jack stands as well)
Mity Vac brake bleeder tool
Brake fluid tester
Brake fluid ( DOT3 or DOT4 for Toyota)
Tools can be found on my amazon affiliate store:
www.amazon.com/shop/thecarcarenut
*as an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
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#thecarcarenut #diyrepair #toyotahybrid
0:00 Intro
0:31 Brake Fluid Overview
2:42 Brake Fluid Testing
5:33 Brake Fluid Precautions
6:49 Brake Fluid Tools
11:02 Hybrid information (MUST WATCH IF YOU HAVE A HYBRID)
13:07 Brake Fluid Replacement
19:20 Frequently Asked Questions

[@stephenbay9564]

I have used this vacuum method for many years now. However, on my 2007 ES350, the rear brakes are most difficult. It would take 20 minutes to fill the container twice. Bubbles and bubbles forever. I solved the problem by applying a small bead of high vacuum silicone grease around the top of the bleeder. I get NO air bubbles, and fill the container in just a few minutes. For what all that may be worth to you.

[@TheCarCareNut]

Good tip. Pinned. Any recommendation for others which brand or where did you buy the grease?

[@stephenbay9564]

@@TheCarCareNut Just let me say, when you see all those bubbles, you already know that that is air sneaking past the bleeder....but consider, it's sneaking past - and going in to the caliper. And I never was able to get a truly hard pedal, and I was thinking it was because ALL the air that snuck in, did not get vacuumed out. So I tried standard dielectric grease first, and it worked to say 80-90%. A big improvement after seeing all those bubbles. But there still were a number of very tiny bubbles. Was never able to have a 100% clear stream. I believe the viscosity of the std. dielectric grease was too thin. Then I tried Dow Corning High Vacuum grease....and.....NO more bubbles AND, I could pump up the Mity-Vac ONCE, and it would maintain the vacuum long enough to almost fill the container. After making this change-over to the high vac. grease, and doing the bleeding on all four wheels, I finally had a rock-hard brake pedal. Amazon sells the grease: www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-High-Vacuum-Grease/dp/B0857KKVR8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=22SNQXGEO4I3J&dchild=1&keywords=high+vacuum+grease&qid=1635940832&sprefix=high+vacuum+%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOUhIVVdQNVVXUUkyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQyMjM4MU9CQ0NOSEQ1UU5PTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjI5NTc0QVo3SlI4RkswTjI5JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[@stephenbay9564]

@@TheCarCareNut You can also use CRC Silaramic brake grease. You WANT to use silicone based whatever, and not mineral based. Some "may" wick in on the bleeder threads, and this stuff will be safe. And at least will this CRC Silaramic (100% pure silicone) brake grease you won't have buy something just for the bleeders.

[@zippy0n942]

@@stephenbay9564 so literally just put this grease on the threads as you are bleeding the brakes?

[@stephenbay9564]

@@zippy0n942 Not exactly. What you do is crack the bleeder so that it's loose, and then apply a bead of the grease at the base of the bleeder. You don't want air to get in by way of the threads of the bleeder, so you put the grease on the top, just below the hex portion of the bleeder. That's where the air is sneaking in.

[@scottdowler8316]

A quick tip! When pumping up the brakes to reseat the brakes pads when you are done use very small shorrt pumps. If you push the pedal to the floor you can send the seal in the master cylinder into areas it's not used to going and it can damage the seal. I've seen many older cars come back with.a bad master cylinder because the tech pushed the pedal to the floor when pumping it up and there may be a defect of corrosion towards the very bottom because the brakes never go down that far under normal use and the seal can be damaged.

[@steveolive9991]

that's why some mechanics will not do a brake job without rebuilding or replacing the master cylinder.

[@marcomurillo9125]

@scottdownler8316 Do I need to pump up the brake pedal every time I finished a side to reset the brake pads, or when I Am done with the four of them?? Thank you!!

[@scottdowler8316]

⁠ you can pump all the brakes at the end of your brake job. Just don’t push the pedal all the way to the floor. You want to pump the brake about the normal distance that you would when using them

[@tedjohnson64]

That’s an excellent tip (using multiple short strokes). I came across that same tip in a car repair book once, snd they had one slight enhancement: temporarily put a small section of wood under the gas pedal, to avoid using the end range of pedal travel.

[@user-bg4ob1db4j]

Great tip. I did brakes on my 2009 Vibe GT and started the car I just started pumping. Wish I had seen this message before 😬

[@grandpacarbuff]

It was mentioned to keep the air pump's container upright. So TRUE! One way to do this is to place it in a glass jar...that will hold it upright as you handle the pump.

[@stephenbay9564]

You know if I write a few more comments on this topic, you might start thinking of me as a brake bleed fanatic. So here is more. Be very careful handling the containers of brake fluid, to not shake them in any way. Put some brake fluid in a small glass jar, and shake it up. See all the micro-tiny bubbles (or air) that form in the fluid mixture. Now set the jar down and let it sit overnight. Tomorrow there will still be some bubbles in the mixture. You do not want to put fluid in to a system, that already has air in it. So don't shake the bottle. Additionally, please note all the bubbles that form in the fluid, the next time you just pour brake fluid into a master cylinder. Same thing here. If you are doing a brake bleeding, THAT fluid (now filled with tiny air bubbles) is going to be sucked into the lines by the vacuum bleeding going on. It's not going to just sit in the M/C and "settle" over time. Pour the fluid into the M/C very slowly by letting it drain in by using a funnel, while gently pouring on the inside of the funnel, not directly down the center. The fluid "flows" in, as opposed to being just poured, and no bubbles are formed. Can you visualized a cube that is 1/8" square? That much air in any part of the system, will cause a slightly soft, as opposed to rock hard pedal. Those tiny bubbles really add up quickly.

[@JoeCole12]

I’ve been doing it the old fashion way for yrs. I wanted to support the channel and bought your pump. It works great! Thanks for all that you do!

[@tommyroam9863]

I really appreciate all the videos you've put out. I like wrenching on my vehicles for maintenance. It so happens that the lead Toyota mechanic for the local dealership is my next door neighbor and I can bounce things off him as well. I appreciate the leads up on the moisture content testing tool as well. I'll be getting one ASAP.

[@ChrisWilliams-pu8pj]

I have worked on cars for years and still learn when I watch your videos. Thank you!

[@justus2881]

Very well done indeed! Your competence, wisdom (experiential or otherwise) and candor are greatly appreciated, and as others have mentioned, thank you very much for making the effort to present the facts and techniques so well! Much appreciated!

[@Oo-IIII-oO]

You're a good teacher and know how to explain things in a way that easy to understand. (like explaining why not just how)

[@waitingforparts57]

Great stuff, again! Your videos are top notch with loads of information without the dramatics others channels peddle. I don't own a Toyota but watch your channel because of your knowledge and presentation. Stay well and safe God Bless.

[@davidh.8513]

Again, Thank you for a VERY well explained video. Everything was perfect! Camera, audio, EVERYTHING!

[@mugensamurai]

Finally someone that teaches you how to do it the right way. Thank you!

[@salmanjaved537]

You know what. I've started to feel confident like being a mechanic. Even though I don't DIY it, now I can oversee what the mechanic is doing down there or wherever the work is. You've been a great help all along my learning journey and I send you my sincere gratitude for making me learn a little bit more. I don't sit aside like an idiot at the mercy of the mechanic. Please don't take me wrong but then there still are some mechanics out there who are in the fleecing business and not into repairing. Haha. Thanks a lot.

[@weekaung]

Excellent video CCNut. Years back didn’t really know how to properly do a brake caliper replacement on my bike and did not bleed it properly, had a minor accident as a result of brake fail at a sudden stop. So never had the courage to do brake fluid replacement on my car even after watching countless videos where they pump the master cylinder manually by pressing on the brakes. Always afraid that I might by mistake introduce air into the system. Your video with the tool to do the job looks much more fail safe. I will most probably attempt this job the next time, in 2 years I guess as I had just asked the shop to do it for me. Thank you for your very informative and useful videos.

[@Tahara-Aichi]

Best channel for Toyota lexus owners. This guy is an asset.

[@yeester2461]

I have that same bleeder kit I bought almost 4 years ago and thought it was defective because I kept seeing bubbles like in the video. Thanks for sharing on how to use it. I will use it on my next brake fluid change again instead of the tube and bottle and extra helper method.

[@bradbrown7555]

Great point on not getting every drop. Oil changes are the same way. A measurable amount is always left behind in the passageways, pump, etc.

[@brucewayne2773]

Excellent video in every way, I bought the tester, did not know there was such a tool. Thanks AMD, you are the best👍👍

[@nostradamus7648]

Robin is a minor. Stop it.

[@petershen1984]

I just came back from the dealer shop! I'm glad you told us even they don't use the scan tool to purge the whole brake system.

[@CoreyDavis01]

Thank you for the information on hybrids! I had no idea that they would require a different procedure

[@timothy5974]

Oh man you ROCK!! New to Hybrids and my Daughter just got her first job in Chicago, so I’m going through her vehicle. Thanks for the many many hours of time doing your channel. It is much appreciated by all of here in your community.

[@nostradamus7648]

Hope she’s enjoying all of Clueless Joe’s “visitors” we’re sending from Texas to that great “Sanctuary City”

[@gregsantos9731]

Yes, very well said. 👍😊

[@shaileshgupta]

@@nostradamus7648.You are full of it. If Republicans wanted to stop illegal immigration, all they have to do is to lock up the owner of the business for the same number of days someone without appropriate documentation has been working at the company. The problem will be solved in six months. Specimens like you have to understand that Republicans don’t want to end illegal immigration. Undocumented workers are the invisible glue which keeps the economy humming. It keeps the wages low and makes the companies more profitable. If you like, I can hire you to clean toilets for $1 per toilet.

[@slothypunk]

@@nostradamus7648 Why are you so salty? Of all great things you can do, you choose to be a jack hole!

[@Winnspeed]

What a great channel. Thank you so much for spreading your knowledge. There’s a lot of people that take pride in doing things themselves. Couldn’t do it with out your help!

[@MattJonesYT]

I coat the bleeder screws with silicone paste to keep them from rusting out. The bleeder cap leaves a lot of exposed metal.

[@tardeliesmagic]

I use marine grade grease.

[@MarzNet256]

Great tip!

[@LAactor]

Make sure not to use the popular purple permatex if you don't want any rubber it touches to swell. They put out an updated product to solve that issue. Still safe to use on metal such as slide pins that don't have the rubber dampener and under the stainless hardware on calipers. Just not on the piston surface that has the boot.

[@azzurroday9730]

I bought that Mityvac from your Amazon link, that thing works like a charm. I have been asking my wife or my son to pump the brake before, this is a lot easier! Thank you!

[@wholeNwon]

Really good. Some things I didn't know. While more heat resistant than DOT3, DOT4 is more hygroscopic, I think. I read that brake fluid actually circulates a little due to heat-induced convection currents. Every 3-4 mo. or so, I empty the reservoir and refill with fresh DOT3. I do this only on very dry days. Each time the fluid removed has been dark (22 yo fluid). Now the fluid is lighter in color (2 yrs later).

[@calvinvu7258]

I alway referred to your videos before doing maintenances on my '16 Prius. Thank you for all you did!!!

[@gregsantos9731]

Why is it when i watching your very nice videos i feels more empowered, secure and motivated? Is it because you really pleasantly and truthfully explains your topic? Oh well, anyways, thank you very Much because every time i look for an answer on a certain car topic your there. Cheers!

[@mattfrazee1890]

You are the best sir. I have learned much from your videos and your approach to instructing us is easy to understand and effective. Thank you!

[@aamiryousuf90]

My heartfelt gratitude for such an educational video. Thank you AMD

[@BMBangladesh]

Another great content from a professional. Thank you.

[@flopro7332]

Hello back Amd , I so enjoy your videos, you're a wealth of knowledge and make people more confident about taking on a job on cars, I know I do. Thank you again.

[@Cerceify]

I took my 2008 Tundra to the dealer before I drove to Maine, but there wasnt much done despite the four hours wait. I brought it in again after my trip. They showed me about $2500 worth of fluid and spark plug changes I should have had done before my trip! Im going to do some of this myself. Thanks.

[@stendecstretcher5678]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I don't have the confidence to do it, so my local Toyota dealer here in Australia changed the brake and clutch fluid on my 98 Corolla for $95 AUD. I was happy with that.

[@patrickcallihan]

Thank you for the video. This is by far the best I've seen on this topic. I've been replacing brakes on my cars for almost 40 years and still learned a lot from this video. I have a hybrid Lexus and did not know that I the brake pump runs when the driver side door is opened. Again thank you.

[@user-zd8lc2ns3z]

Will it still run if you disconnect the battery?

[@mrdragancelan]

@@user-zd8lc2ns3z No, it won't.

[@platae_cos]

Thank you so much for this and all your maintenance videos. My Corolla hybrid just got out of warranty and I don't plan to continue bringing it for basic maintenance at the dealer. I was worried about it being a hybrid and that making basic maintenance would be more difficult, but it definitely isn't and your videos have helped me get the confidence to work in my hybrid as I would do in any of my other cars.

[@Kiarabelle1]

Excellent video and very informative. Thank you for all your hard work and time, AMD.

[@AcidFlash123]

Just wanted to suggest when using one of those fluid testers you should thoroughly rinse and clean it afterwards as the brake fluid sitting on there for an extended time can damage it and may not be able to use it next time.

[@smokyclouds5734]

Great Video, and I’m so glad you went over this. One of my friends thought I was crazy for doing this to my car. I believe in preventive maintenance on anything. Just like you said in this video. If you plan on keeping you car for more than 3 years, then do it. Keep up the great videos. Very useful info, and thank you for sharing.

[@nostradamus7648]

Tell him he's crazy for NOT maintaining his car.

[@gabrielmungwa6605]

😊😊

[@RG615]

Great informative common sense and you sir are a master mechanic which I appreciate you blessing us with sharing how to properly do this procedure. God bless 😉🙏✌️

[@ftwbreeze]

Good morning. Thank you for this informative coverage. Appreciate all you do!

[@sunilayya8948]

Many brands other than toyota recommend the changing of brake fluid every 2 years or 25,000 miles. Great video as usual.

[@marcusa.rivera6377]

....and every 12 months if you live near the coast/beach area!

[@AEVMU]

@@marcusa.rivera6377 Never seen that. What brands suggest that?

[@tomdowling3994]

Will you please make a video showing safe jacking points? Where to place floor jacks, when lifting so that we can place a jack stand under the pinch welds. Also, when jacking at the pinch welds, where to safely place jack stands under the chassis, and control arms.

[@roryobrien2419]

Thanks for your efforts, I admire your patience with the comments.

[@superdude4402]

Thank you! Years ago I did an old vehicle and made all the mistakes you talked about. Thought all the bubbles was air in my system, I went thru 2-3 bottles of brake fluid and finally found out that was normal.

[@stevenlefebvre2991]

I love these videos keep up the great work. I like taking care of my Toyotas. And it’s great hearing from a pro the proper way to do it.

[@reikisponge]

Thanks for making this thorough video. Amazing production! I just did it last night from from 11pm to 3am (taking breaks in between each wheel.). 2012 Camry hybrid master cylinder reservoir seems to have upper and lower compartments. I couldn't get thru the lower part(below Min line) because there's a plastic barrier between the two compartments. It's one piece, nothing can't be removed (if I saw it right). So I just pumped out as much as I could. Also used the vacuum tool you recommended. I had to improvise to get through the tiny slit entry and use an attachment came with the vacuum pump, and connect to a tiny straw (taken from a tiny covid test nose swab stick, which is hollow like a straw) in order to get into the upper master cylinder compartment. Maybe coffee stir straw stick might work too. Anyway, it was a success. I disconnected the battery to be safe. Thanks so much AMD!

[@sambitar8448]

MAY GOD BLESS YOU AND KEEP YOU YOUR PRECAUTIONS ARE WELL IN ORDER; YOU ARE REALLY # 1 MASTER TECHNICIAN.

[@abka5532]

Honesty is the best policy Much appreciated

[@paulc2548]

Excellent instruction... I bleed my brake the old fashion way (get my trusty wife to pump the brake pedal). But this is better so I don't have to ask my wife to do it with me and I learned one thing from this video... let it drips a little before tightening up the bleeder screen. If I don't see this video, I would have tighten up the screw before disconnecting the hose from the bleeder. BTW, I just bought the brake bleeder kits (via your link) from your Amazon store. Thank you.

[@luptonpittman6520]

Great video, thank you. I wasn’t aware that letting it drip a bit after and then closing it was the proper way. I was thought you had to close it while it was under vacuum pressure. I did it just like you showed and it stops great.

[@obsesivegamer]

thats what i thought, you close the valve when you lose pressure and before you take it off.. never seen anyone let it drip open like that.

[@robertocastaneda1692]

Great videos. You have saved me lots of money with the brake fluid replacement costs and with a squeaky seal on the sunroof

[@ST-xc3qw]

Great video I have one of these pumps and managed to get some break fluid into the plunger part. Took it apart cleaned with break cleaner and used a small amount of silicone lube to lubricator the o ring and it’s worked just fine since then

[@bluefj-wc3vz]

Nice tutorial AMD. I've learned to place pig mats or paper towels under and around master cylinder to catch any inadvertent drips while refilling reservoir. Brake fluid is some nasty stuff like you said.

[@chrissmithz314]

Good video, appreciate all that you do. Was thinking about gravity bleeding when the time came, but I think I might pick up that mightyvac tool or something similar. Glad you pointed out that the bubbles are normal, would've bugged me out.

[@glasser2819]

it's best to use a pressure cap adapter over the master to push clean fluid down to lines... vacuuming bubbles sucks!!

[@nymack66]

After watching this video I now figured my 2006 Silverado is due for a change. Nice info as always.

[@michaelmounts1269]

Great video...just replaced pads and rotors on my gen 4 prius...biggest surprise was frkn caliper pins were frozen! Glad I didn't wait.

[@speed8701]

Always another great video. FYI: What happens if you put DOT 3 instead of DOT 4? They're used in most modern cars and trucks, because they work with ABS brakes. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3. You can use DOT 4 where DOT 3 is called for, but not the reverse. Using DOT 3 in a DOT 4 brake risks boiling the brake fluid.

[@carlovanrijk4039]

speed8701, that’s good to know! Will be doing a brake bleed in the Spring when the weather gets warmer. 👍🏼

[@norakat]

DOT 3 is less hygroscopic than DOT 4. DOT 3 is approved for my car and most cars meaning boiling point is a non-issue.

[@JP_6986]

When doing as 1 man (77 years old retired engineer). I set up a simple battery based Ring camera on a tripod. The camera was focused closely to the side of the plastic brake fluid reservoir so I could monitor the level and assure not to reach a critical low level while I worked at each wheel location. I have a 2014 RX350 FWD & 2015 RX350 AWD and really value this excellent web site which I have used since its inception. Keep up the good information flow, it is invaluable!

[@TheTaraneem]

Thank you, just ordered all the tools. Much appreciated!

[@dtna]

I seemed to have missed this video. You're the best Armando!

[@maddeusdoggeus1]

Thx man for all the Great Videos 👍

[@MarzNet256]

Hello! I get my wife to push pedal for brake flush while I work the bleeder. Excellent video. However, I noticed you were wearing hand but not eye protection. I injured my eyes a couple of times in my career as a carpenter so I'm kinda uptight about PPE.

[@TojiZenin3956]

Thank you for this video I've been waiting for it. Always learning from you.

[@marcusa.rivera6377]

I use the pushed bleed method. it's effective on the first try. Biggest concern is to protect the ABS unit because this is a very expensive part to replaced.

[@donw3912]

As always a great video:-) The only thing i can think of to add is start with the right rear as it's furthest from the master and work your way to LR, RF and left front finally. As for the use of older new/opened bottles...i would use it to help flush if the fluid being replaced is really old or otherwise contaminated to help push the bad out and chase it with freshly opened fluid to finish off the job.

[@fidiusjwhoopie]

def should be mentioned!

[@slothypunk]

There are many "religion" of car maintenance out there, but I have experienced it myself that bleeding from the furthest is more of a "religion" of maintenance. Even if you change it from random position as what I did from the beginning of time I bleed the fluid, as long as you bleed it, your brake fluid will be fine. How I know it works? CC nut do it, I do it myself, less BS I have to remember!

[@lifetimedreamvideos985]

I've always done the brake bleeding with the brake pedal. I put tubing on the slave cylinder bleeder (farthest from the master cylinder first (right rear, left rear, right front, left front, in that order ... decreasing distance from the master cylinder). Using this method, after a few pumps, there is fluid in a glass jar sitting on the floor below the bleed valve. Once the tubing in the jar is covered, no air can get back into the brake slave cylinder. You can see that the tubing has absolutely no bubbles. I use a small enough vinyl tubing, that it's a little hard to get on. No air leaks are possible, as long as the tubing hasn't dried out (old). I did use the same tubing for this for a number of years without it becoming hardened. I stored it in doubled plastic bags. Close the bleeder valve before removing the tubing.

[@longnguyen-zu1qe]

❤Good to know that the gravity method to purge the brake system 😊

[@Robsbrd99]

You hit on my situation perfectly with my 08 4runner. It will need brakes in the Spring and will get it's first flush as well. My cheap tester shows the 2nd light off and on. Thought it would be a great idea to do it all at the same time to keep the level correct.

[@romeokabatay4655]

As usual, very informative and very thorough. Thank you very much.

[@spinb]

Great video. Thank you. Any chance we'll see a neat and easy way to do a proper power steering flush for our older Toyotas?

[@glasser2819]

use a vacuum extractor. Beware steering bowl has a non-serviceable strainer built-in its inlet track - Replace for best flow to feed the pump.

[@stephenbay9564]

One other thought....I start with the rear brakes, and then do the fronts. Not sure if it really matters, since each has its own feed from the ABS unit. But I do repeat the filling of the container at each wheel, until I see all NEW brake fluid.....and do this on all 4 wheels. Lexus has this as "scheduled maintenance" at every 20k.....which may be excessive, but it takes so little time, and I still have the (2007) car, so to me it's worth the trouble. This is the fist car I took the time to do the changing of the fluid, and so far the calipers seem to move smooth (when I put new brake pads in), which says to me there must not be much corrosion in them. Thanks for your thoughts about all this in this video!

[@ezezmoon]

toyota ouner honestly recomend this channel.good job Mr. Car care nut.

[@paulnick9092]

This was an amazing video. You showed every step clearly, up to draining all the fluid from all 4 wheels. Then you talked about pumping the brakes. I assume I need to fill the master cylinder, pump the brakes, and add more fluid pump again and again until it is full pedal and the MC is full. I did not see that in the video so I am double-checking. My wife would never forgive me if her demise was because her brakes failed after I worked on it.

[@JrSpitty]

I feel like color of brake fluid is a good indicator of the quality regardless of actual moisture content. After 3-5 years you definitely can see its age in color, which most service intervals are supposed to be 2 years for a complete exchange. (they recommend changing it well before the fluid "ages" and darkens) I am a dealer technician as well and I work with used cars so I see a lot of the neglect from people who don't service their brake system. Usually in the long run the vehicle will be fine as long as it isn't being tracked or driven hard on the brakes, but you will see calipers eventually seize up and seals go bad. The recommendation is more for vehicle longevity and liability then it is for actual safety.

[@kennethscholz6027]

Agreed, we've suffered frozen calipers on used cars whose fluid was too old.

[@johna2524]

Been doing brakes for a long time with the MityVac (Just wish the reservoir was a little bigger) and learned a lot! 1. Doesn't matter which wheel to start on when just replacing fluid. 2. Leave the bleeder nipple open for a few drops to drip out instead of closing bleeder under vacuum and a lot more! Thanks Toyota/Lexus "Rock Star!"

[@wingusa2]

Make a new reservoir out of a quart jar, drill holes in the top get some nipples at the hardware store in Mount them the size of the hose You can make a nice quart reservoir for about $2

[@norakat]

Why not close it right away? Don’t you introduce air if you pull the hose before it’s closed?

[@tranfamily35]

@@norakat I believe the inside pressure is pushing the fluid out. You want to see drops drop out to ensure no more air inside.

[@Roger21989]

Well done, very concise and informative.

[@bogieman101]

AMD, I have watched ALL your videos and appreciate the heck out of them. That said, I have a 2013 Avalon Hybrid Limited with 96K miles and it has been the best car we have ever had. It is time for the coolant changes and I am going to flush the brake fluid. I am a member of a Toyota Hybrid forum and a guy on there posted info from a service manual and he said DO NOT manually bleed the brakes on the 2013 Avalon Hybrid, that it would do thousands of dollars of damage with out using the TechStream. Please reaffirm that I can bleed the brakes, and flush coolant in radiator and inverter without TechStream and without doing any harm. I changed transmission fluid at 35K so I know that works. I hate to ask you specifics like this because I'm sure you get them all the time, but this car is in too good of condition for me to screw it up.

[@jeffwilliams9086]

Another great video! I have changed all the fluids in my 2008 Tundra using your videos, thank you so much! I sincerely wished all mechanics were as competent, honest, and practical as you are, the world would be a better place!

[@yurnov]

One additional point, you can use brake fluid DOT4, DOT3, and DOT5.1, all of them are mixable and the general rule is that you can use fluid specified on the cap or higher (means that you can use DOT4 or DOT5.1 when you have DOT3 on the cap, or you can use DOT5.1 when you have DOT4 on cap). It is possible to use a "lower" DOT than specified, but it is not recommended as a lower DOT has a lower boiling point. BUT NEVER MIX DOT5 with DOT4 or DOT3, it's a completely different incompatible fluid. DOT5.1 is mixable and compatible with DOT3 and DOT4, but DOT5 is not. On the European market, we have also fluids called DOT4+ or DOT4 LV (low viscosity) or DOT4 Class 6 which is DOT4 fluid with lower viscosity at low temperatures that are recommended for modern brake systems with stability and traction controls on regions where winter temperature is low. Technically that is fluid under standard ISO 4925 Class 6. Viscosity at the high temperature is the same as normal DOT4.

[@norakat]

DOT 4 is more hygroscopic than DOT 3

[@ewetuber186000]

Another excellent tutorial. Does it matter what order I do this in? I’m thinking of old brake bleeding instructions that said “start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder”. Does that apply here?

[@Enrique2k52]

Today I found this site in youtube and is so good and of course I subscribed , thank you!!!

[@brianw6645]

For the first time since I bought my 2009 Prius (Gen 2) I was able to successfully flush my entire brake system thanks to your video. Only point of note for me is that the fluid came out much slower than I thought it would. The entire process took me about 2 hours. But in the end everything is working great. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

[@nooral-deenfoudeh4857]

I never flushed the brake fluid on my prius, would it hurt the system if I changed it after 185k miles?

[@brianw6645]

@@nooral-deenfoudeh4857 I changed mine for the first time at 186k miles about 2 months ago, and everything seems to be working great. Just be sure to follow the instructions in this video carefully.

[@nooral-deenfoudeh4857]

@@brianw6645 Thanks a lot

[@carlosmberrios]

Great video as always. I own a 2007 Toyota 4Runner V6. The dipstick tube is severely corroded. It seemed like a very simple replacement. I removed the upper bolt and try pulling the tube out of the engine. But it’s not budging. I’m afraid to pull too hard and break it. Any advice would be greatly appreciate it. Thanks In advance.

[@TheCarCareNut]

I believe I covered this in the live stream try to rock the tune back and forth

[@tundras4ever552]

Another great video! and here i was replacing the brake fluid every year lol

[@nokianx400]

Great instructional video. Question, so we don't need to bleed the distant part first aka rear right, going to the closest aka front driver side ? Thank you

[@jerrymock5366]

Very informative video as usual. However, I would like to know if I should do anything different for a 5th gen 4runner with the hydroboost unit. Thank you!

[@TheCarCareNut]

Nothing different. Many will tell you otherwise but from experience nothing different

[@jeffsullivan3101]

Hey Ahmed, thanks for the great videos you are really a great teacher. You teach the golden rule like the Army does which is KISS which means keep it simple stupid. I have a 2001 Camry that has the origional rubber brake lines that I am going to replace. What else do I need to do other than what you have said as far as bleeding the system after replacing the lines? Thanks, Jeff

[@TheCarCareNut]

Hi! You’ll need to bleed the lines afterwards and you’re all set. Before anything though make sure your bleeders come loose

[@coloradoboo1071]

I just got my wife’s 2017 Prius brakes bled. Even though I have a good scanner, I disconnected the battery and did it old school with the same suction tool you have…worked great!! I did a test drive after and got the dreaded ICS warning when first going but it went away after a few restarts and I have no check engine light.

[@sokratisbarbounis5239]

Great video, as always! I also enjoy the comments below because many people of the channel community have great knowledge!

[@geoffwalker7530]

Hi Mr Nut, thanks for helping us learn more! Is there any problem using a pressure bleeder on a hybrid? I have an Auris which is virtually the same as a gen 3 Prius

[@TheCarCareNut]

There’s no problem using a pressure bleeder. Just the same precautions apply

[@flyonbyya]

When you know what you’re doin’… like this guy. Then jobs like this usually go well…..and Life is Good !

[@joseleysa5137]

Again! Very educational indeed. Thanks for sharing the DIY video...

[@NrthQlder]

Love your videos brother, keep up the good work.

[@mattb9664]

This is a great video on changing the brake fluid! And answers my question on using Toyota's tech stream or using the car/truck's pump to push the old fluid out. I always suspected that Toyota's procedure was a little confusing sounding to do, and this confirmed that it is. If you just let all that fluid push out with their tech stream procedure or the auto pump, you'll be in deep trouble.

[@ozarkliving7263]

I’d love a copy of their tech stream procedure

[@nordicpride9708]

What you are talking about is a “ABS BLEED”. This isn’t performed on Lexus/Toyota unless they have a lot of air entrapped or you’ve replaced the ABS unit. And don’t just run the pump thus flushing all the fluid until it runs dry. That’s not at all what Toyota instructs you to do. You need to re read the procedure

[@norakat]

@@nordicpride9708It seems the procedure is for regular bleeding, not just when you replace the ABS. I haven’t tried it yet though.

[@lanceescondido191]

Great video. Thanks. I had change my brake fluid about 1 yr ago on my 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid LE at 100,000 miles. There was no issue during or after (1 yr ago) the fluid change. The procedure that I used is way different (and sometime opposite of what you said in this video regarding the brake booster pump activation). I just wonder that if I had done it all wrong. The procedure that I used involved putting the car into the INVALID mode. The procedure is outlined below. Please let me know if I done this all wrong, or if there is any potential harm to the components on the brake system. Thank you so much. Toyota warns: Do not depress the brake pedal to operate the brake booster pump more than 100 seconds at a time. When performing the procedure continuously, release the brake pedal to stop the brake booster pump operating and depress the brake pedal again. Otherwise the system will set codes and disable invalid mode. Invalid Mode Procedure: Engage parking brake Power Button twice Press brake and go into Neutral Press brake x8 in 5 secs Press Park Press brake x8 in 5 secs Press brake and go into Neutral Press brake x8 in 5 secs Press Park and note Blinking brake light (yellow circle with exclamation mark) You are in invalid mode Bleed rear brakes by holding pedal down to activate the brake booster pump, no more than 100s at a time. Bleed front brakes by pumping brakes the old fashion way. Power down to exit invalid mode Consider using charger on 12v battery (I hooked up a 12V lead acid car battery in parallel to the existing 12V battery)

[@pgreenx]

I have the same question. I guess if you use the vacuum bleeder and do not need to press the pedal you don't need the invalid mode and visa vera. I an NOT an expert and don't really know the right way but common sense and Car Care Nut's expertise makes either method sound right. I bought a Mity Vac vacuum bleeder and trying CCN method. Last thing - I prefer pressure bleeding but could not find an adaptor for the Toyota brake fluid resiviour cap anywhere....

[@toninocars]

Great video, thanks . I do replace on hybrid with a help from my gf, old school style and never have any issues.

[@Zeek800]

So glad I watched this a second time. My Highlander is 5.5 years old and even though the rear pads and rotors were changed out just over a year ago because the calliper seized ( not sure if it was the slide pins or the piston ) the front pads were changed out at just under 50,000 Kim’s ( 30,000 miles) because the calliper slide pins seized. The brake fluid is just a 1/4 inch below max but the brake pedal is spongy. Even new the pedal wasn’t what I would call firm. I’m changing out the front rotors and pads in the next couple weeks and after cleaning the slide pins a couple weeks ago I found the seal / boot on one of the pistons on the left front had a piece the size of an almond missing.. I’ll be doing the manual bleed on the new calliper and the other side which just needs a rotor and pads. Now I’m thinking about changing out the brake fluid in the whole system so I’ll be buying this or another pump soon.

[@stefanwinter1377]

Interesting. Over here (central europe) the water content of your brake fluid actually is a vital part of a MOT inspection.

[@glasser2819]

California USA does not have any mendatory inspection besides tailpipe emissions. The state of a car disrepair is entirely up to the owner to figure.

[@stefanwinter1377]

@@glasser2819 And how does the state of the car affect registration?

[@glasser2819]

@@stefanwinter1377 you can register a car with rusted brake lines, leaking front struts, broken engine mounts and 4 bold tires... zero problem to pay registration. The only condition is "no air pollution".

[@nof8kn]

Thank you again for your informative videos, Sensei. Any certain order (rear left, front right etc) to start the bleeding?

[@715thug]

I was wondering the same thing. Some start from farthest away master cylinder. So rear passenger, rear driver, passenger, then driver. I’m this case I don’t know.

[@TheCarCareNut]

Hi! No specific order

[@ronaldtentschert6876]

I watch all your videos.I have learned alot thank you.

[@mirjunior9864]

Thanks for excellent, comprehensive video! I tried this week this vacuum method. Works great to just replace the brake fluid but as for bleeding I don't trust it for 100%. Having the fluid replaced I had to still bleed with one man pressure method. With vacuum pump you're never sure wherher to stop after 3, 5 drops or more. No good to leave the system under negative pressure and leting the air enter the bleader is wrong either... So! I found that using this method to replace fluid is fast and conveniant, esp. with sealing the bleader with silicone grease /great comment from Stephen Bay/, final step bleeding with brake pedal and everything will be fine :-) The bottle volume is just enough so you don't forget to fill up the master cylinder before moving to next wheel. Regards!