How To Replace Brake Pads And Rotors (Front & Rear)

[@labradormcgraw2409]

Wow! This is the only brake video I've seen to rival ChrisFix's quality (and I've seen quite a few). I don't know why we don't see more repair videos from EE, judging by this one. You still can't beat a ChrisFix video... but this is freaking good.

[@warshatube]

cheers

[@ΑΡΗΣΚΟΡΝΑΡΑΚΗΣ]

Blitz Jay heaven

[@EngineeringExplained]

Hahaha, I'm with ya. Chris is the man and his DIY video quality is the best. I like to focus more on how stuff works rather than DIY's, but if it's something I'm doing to my own car, I figure I may as well post the video. The test portion should be pretty interesting!

[@labradormcgraw2409]

Engineering Explained The production quality is really good. Like I said, you should do more DIYs.

[@stapleboss]

No offense to EE, cause I love his videos, but if you are looking for car repair on KZbin go check out South Main Auto Repair. Guys a mechanical savant and has a 40 minute video just on brake hardware.

[@angelocardoc]

Some important points to consider... #1: Apply anti-seize compound between the new rotor and wheel hub to prevent rusting. Makes the job easier next time. Also...if you have a brake pulsation issue, and new rotors didn't solve the problem, you may have a bent wheel hub. #2: The caliper slider pins should NOT be lubricated with a petroleum based grease. A silicone based grease or a product specific for caliper sliders should be used. The rubber bushings inside the caliper sliders will swell up and seize, if you use a petroleum based lubricant. Those sliders should slide freely but still be snug. If the outboard pad has plenty of lining remaining and the inboard pad is worn out, you need to look at the operation of the slider pins. Slider pins that are too stiff or too loose need to be fixed or replaced. This is very important. #3: The bracket that holds the brake pads needs to be cleaned. The brake pads should fit snug in that bracket and be able to easily slide in that bracket. I use a little anti-seize compound on the mating surfaces too. Sometimes the brake pads may need to be filed down in order to achieve a perfect fit. #4: Be careful when applying the anti-seize compound on the back of the brake pads and on the wheel hub and on the caliper/pad mounting bracket. The heat generated by the brakes can make the anti-seize creep onto the brake pad linings. Not good.

[@branchprediction9923]

Hey there, do u know if all vechicles have a rear piston that needs to be spun to push it back? I have an electric parking brake, and i wonder if i need to spin it cuz im changing rear pads tomorrow myself and i dont have the tools to spin it.

[@axelfolie94]

Why didnt you take the opportunity to paint the calipers red for extra horsepower?

[@ja.935g67]

How about yellow to match his car.

[@jpd76]

Yellow costs horsepower. Red adds at least 25hp.

[@axelfolie94]

Purple Dog But Porsches Ceramics Breaks are yellow 🤔

[@jpd76]

My point exactly.....

[@junk4dimeji]

Red paint only adds 5 horsepower. Not worth the hassle. Yellow is about 2.5 horsepower.

[@neuideas]

I'd like to see you do a comparison video between braking styles: light brake riding vs intermittent (firmer) braking to see which creates more brake wear and shortens the life of your pads. I advocate intermittent braking, and find myself rolling my eyes whenever I see people riding their brakes, especially on relatively flat roads.

[@QuantitativeMethods]

Thanks! This made changing the pads and rotors on my wife’s 2009 Honda Pilot extremely easy.

[@briancollette4288]

Really helpful! I never grew up learning about how to work on cars (my own laziness) and your videos have been really useful!

[@vaioskaliakoudas6388]

He's the best hobbyist mechanic!!! He wears workin suit and safety boots even when it's workin at his home

[@TheBoyJenius]

Jason brah. This channel dope AF bro. Don't even need school with this channel.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Haha, very happy you enjoy it! And stay in school folks! :)

[@TheElement911]

This video has been of great help. I hadn't done this in years. Thanks a lot! One of the very few things that don't match with my my experience is the torque given to the bolt for upper front caliper pins. I tried at 24 lb-ft and the bolt beoke. Got a brand new pin and bolt, tried to torque at 23 lb-ft and stopped before making it to 23 cause it felt like it was going to brake again.

[@RalliRandy]

Suddenly everybody now is doing a quick jack.

[@EngineeringExplained]

It's an awesome piece of equipment; they've been quite kind to the KZbin community which is great.

[@wobblysauce]

It is about exposure.

[@drfc_14]

Be great for my Audi, but don't think my girlfriend's MX5 or my Silvia would fit in it without a hole on the garage floor lol

[@baddriversofnorthtexas6850]

Mine was fine for 2 lifts until it wouldn't let my car come down. The company told me to find 4 other really strong guys and pick my camaro off the lift while they build, test and send me a new motor.

[@michaelkennedy8573]

Randy Thomas and using Ryobi tools

[@inspiration_5877]

I learn more from you in one 10 minute video than I have in the last school year, not to mention I _will_ use the stuff I learn. They should teach this in school.

[@drfc_14]

Top tip when trying to wind back pistons/ how the rotor (discs) are mounted: If they aren't budging easily, get a friend to open the brake fluid reservoir for a split second while you wind the piston back in, then top up brake fluid if needed. When pads are low, the brake fluid level will be low so be sure to check afterward and always replace the brake fluid every 2 years or so! Regarding the discs or rotors, remember that it's how the fins on the INSIDE matter when placing the disc, and not the grooves on the outside. Centrifugal forces will push air out of the rotor and with it heat, so make sure the fins on the inside are not 'scooping' air when rotating forward (as seen on 2:24).

[@Forgan_Mreeman]

you're a professional at making quick, informational videos. you make it look easy

[@EngineeringExplained]

+FrogLungs thanks!

[@zanderal75]

Good video, keep up the quality of the channel. I just wanted to add, you must use silicone lubricant on the slide pins, because if you use a petroleum based product, it will degrade the rubber boot

[@lilhojo123]

Should you do a quick flush of the fluid before you remove the old pads and compress the pistons?

[@_MaDD]

Those are on backwards, likes should slop towards the rear of the car, yours are going to the from ( top to bottom ) should be hight at the front low in the rear .

[@alexlopez2995]

I love the fact that we have the same car lol. I've learned so much from you and its made working on my S so much easier.

[@Love2Cruise]

Going to do the same on my S. You just saved me a few hundred dollars! Thanks EE!

[@vinceandtheresa1243]

Cant wait to see if those slots actually help cool down and improve braking! Thanks from Canada.

[@andrewslovak1]

Jesus, you make it look so easy. I changed the pads on my '14 Focus ST today and it took me like 4 hours (it's the first time I've ever done it, and wasn't properly prepared to push the piston back in, so I needed to stop, and get the right tool, and by "right" I mean a C-clamp haha). And now my brake pedal is squishy as hell and have a few drops of what I assume is brake fluid leaking (I presume due to the pressure difference after compressing the piston). Hopefully I don't have a major issue... but the car does stop, so at least I've got that going for me

[@mituc]

StopTech Street? Good choice, I have the same setup on my 3MPS BK (mazdaspeed3 gen1), and they are phenomenal on the street as well as light track (one cool down lap every 3 laps or so, just to be sure).

[@EngineeringExplained]

These are "Speed Engineering" rotors, but could be quite similar if not the same.

[@JohnNorris411]

What about making adjustments to the parking brake screw/gear after placing the new pads on the rear?

[@boosted2.4_sky]

@ 2:45... I just did this yesterday and used (And have always used)... Never have had an adverse experience. .. Yes...@ 4:40 have this too. .. Works just fine... 👍

[@RelmXD]

Since you're so detail orientated in your other videos, can you please state what can happen if you don't lube the guide pins?

[@RelmXD]

Thank you joel!

[@grimboslizzdagrizz]

This is the best! Im in the process of looking for a new car, and the first mods i have planned are rotors, pads, and calipers, as well as getting seperate wheels and tires for different seasons to deliver better overall wear and increase fun factor....thinking about the new 6 speed manual golf alltrack instead of going the subaru route.

[@jeffgrey3994]

wow thank you for installing the slotted rotors properly, i have seen so many people even professional shops install slotted rotors backwards, if you dont have directional internal vanes then the outside edge of the slots should always contact the pads first when rotating forward not the inside edge, thank you for informing people properly

[@jeremywhittler8591]

Jeff Grey It depends,some 2 piece vanes go the opposite directions,follow manufacturing specs.

[@SCAMPB9]

Jeff Grey Some manufactures call for it to be opposite. Not all rotors are the same, I just installed new rotors and it specifically says to have the inside contact first to keep noise down when braking. They were straight vanes.

[@jeffgrey3994]

sam campbell well all slotted rotors i have seen with both directional and non directional vanes usually are the outside edge of the slot contacting the pads first, even ferrari's, lambo's, and many other exotics are that way, even race motorcycles too. Im curious as to what type of car you have and what brake kit it is if not stock.

[@walterk1221]

Jeff Grey I just installed a set of EBC rotors and EBC indicates the slot is to contact the pad at the inside diameter first. Concrete example utilizing a known-good aftermarket supplier.

[@jeffgrey3994]

Walter K but you fail to say what car, and what are you trying to say? that the way you did it is the correct way? 99% of slotted rotors have the outter diameter of the slot contacting the pad first and there is a reason for that and i have seen ebc rotors that way as well.. maybe this guy should make a video on it since hes an engineer and all

[@Drefer4]

When are you going to post the video of the temperatures? Would like to buy a set of these, but hard numbers would be nice to see if they actually work. Thanks.

[@CooleyFlo]

This video was well done. I do have a question about brakes, in particular the sensitivity in the brake pedal itself. Some vehicles I've driven have much more of a "sensitive" response when applying pressure to the brake pedal, in other vehicles the amount of pressure applied to achieve similar stopping results requires more applied force to the brake pedal. Why is that, and can the sensitivity be adjusted?

[@LRflex]

MoCooL usually a brake system with contaminated brake fluid or just plain our air in the system results in a squishy brake pedal, that's why when there's a leak in the brake system , the brake pedal just bottoms out. If you think your pedal is not as sensitive as you want it too be , maybe bleed or flush your brake fluid depending on when it was last changed. Also a abnormally stiff brake pedal could mean a leak in the brake booster (black Pan looking thing on your firewall ) But usually if everything is okay then it's just the way of the beast.

[@CooleyFlo]

Copy that, makes sense.

[@EngineeringExplained]

If there's air in the system you will definitely feel it. The pedal gets spongey and very unresponsive. But different systems require different pedal effort based on their geometry and piston sizes used, as well as the vacuum assist. There are quite a few variables that engineers can play with to make pedal effort higher or lower.

[@mvpatrone]

Also consider stainless steel lines. There are many components within a good high performance braking system that will give the brakes better feel, but adding stainless steel lines is a cheap way. It prob won't be night/day difference, but also will add protection against line aneurysm/damage.

[@BoolinToolin]

Hate it when people say engineers can't turn wrenches, thanks for the video, and nice torque wrench.

[@pkxia1255]

I am wondering if you would need to rotate the rear caliper piston in a particular position when you push them in?

[@danielbass09]

What type of torque wrench were you using?

[@superstreetking95]

Snap-on which is expensive asf

[@δημοςαναστασιδης]

hi jason ! should we change our brake pads when the line in the midlle of the pad is wear out despite the fact that we have enough material left ? ??

[@HazzaBaniMalek]

where do you get the torquing specs and what grease or what threadlocker to use for each car? where do you find what the manufacturer recommends?

[@isaiahsmith7912]

have u made a video of how to bleed the brakes??

[@ericviger4984]

Been doing brakes for years so I watched for fun, now my wifes gonna be pissed because im definitely get some of those quick jacks haha!!!

[@alexg7856]

Good video. I like to use some bungee cords to hang the calipers off of a spring or a part of the suspension while I"m changing out the pads. Keeps you from bumping the caliper and accidentally stretching the line or something.

[@jptrainor]

A tube of M77 is available at your local Honda dealer. Clean and lubricate the anti rattle clips also (with M77). Clean and lubricate the caliper pins with a silicone grease/paste per Honda specs, e.g. Superlube silicone brake grease.

[@gabpayan]

Where do you find the manufacturer recommended bolt torque specifications? Do you have to order a repair manual through the dealer or is there another way of finding this information?

[@MikePT15]

After doing that, you don't need to bleed the system? Did you open the brake oil conteiner?

[@tawidave7092]

Is their any reason why you put the rotor on, with the slots going in that direction? I bought some slotted rotors (TRD) and the installation directions, say to put the rotor in, with the slots going the other way. Hope this makes sense.

[@Etherion195]

Just a question: Where do you find the manufacturers instructions about the necessary torque and which brakes pads, and lubricant you should use? I'm asking since i don't have a car yet and therefore think that they won't write it in the users manual since they do not intent you to do work on the car on your own.

[@MonoLucas123]

Some ceramic/copper grease on the hub will make it easier for the future, and it is said that copper grease will support heat transfer from the disc to the hub... It also helps when pushing the piston back.. to open up the bleed valve... it is always good to bleed the brakes after a brake job... dump a bit of the old fluid out....inspect caliper, clean it up... or rebuild it:) The caliper guide pins, only grease them with a silicon based lube as petroleum based grease will swell the rubbers.

[@suryamp12]

What kind of anti seize can you apply to those screws that hold the rotor in place so that they don't require hammering?

[@ryanscott3753]

There are a few tips to doing a similar brake job. 1) Never grab a wheel by the inside spokes, because the wheel can fall and smash the fingers. Always grab the wheel by the front/rear outside diameter to avoid smashed fingers. 2) Although there are hex surfaces on the caliper pins, these hex surfaces do NOT need to be held in place while loosening the caliper retaining screws. 3) The brake rotor retaining screws are #3 Phillips, not #2. 4) An impact screwdriver (not a normal screwdriver) are needed to remove stubborn screws. 5) A smoke wrench on the top hat works well to remove the rust bond between the hub and rotor. Do not impact the brake rotor outer surface, because that damages the wheel bearings. 6) The outboard rotor surface is always cleaned first. The top hat of the rotor prevents the cleaned surface from getting dirty when the inboard surface is cleaned. 7) The use of anti-seize lubricants on the backs of the pads and shims is entirely useless. 8) The steps to clean the caliper cradle mount and replace the hardware are entirely missing. 9) There are specific tools and procedures to clean the hub mating surface. 10) The steps to check the fit of the brake pad ears in the cradle, file if necessary, and lubricate the brake pad ears in the cradle are also missing. Many blanking dies are worn out for the brake pads, so the burnished and painted surfaces on the brake pad ears must always be verified. 11) The brake caliper pins must be lubricated at every brake service interval. 12) Torque wiggle sticks are good enough to tighten lug nuts. 13) The step to align the pins of the inboard brake pads to the notches in the rear caliper pistons was left out. 14) It is a good idea to bed the brake pads and rotors to avoid Judder complaints, especially with the hi-po brake pad formulae that are offered. Very few mechanics or even engineers understand how brake friction works, and Judder (and sometimes Thudder) are common complaints that are mostly preventable. Brake pad friction is primarily composed of adherent friction and only partially composed of abrasive friction.

[@furtivedig]

your content = gold

[@lefuedebout]

I've often looked at brake caliper location on various cars and wondered, why have they been placed just there? Usually front brake calipers situated at the front edge of the rotor while at the rear they are at the rear edge. But not always. Is there any rhyme or reason for those locations or is it a " design " feature?

[@biancacleveland8913]

which model of carbotech did you use? any review of the rotor and pads?

[@mitchboy53]

Another Excellent and well constructed video, a suggestion for a future video might be how to fix a split brake piston boot?

[@wattsobx]

some of your links are dead can you also just describe which parts you used? I cannot find the rear caliper piston tool you used to screw the piston in?

[@MaSeshield]

Is there a tool kit that's recommended for things like this?

[@PoorSharkie]

I have yet to find a video of someone swapping pads and rotors on a fixed caliper setup. Could you make a video covering that, please.

[@ReyF]

I tried to compress the rear piston with the cube tool and it doesn't go all the way in for the new pads to fit. Any suggestions on what to do? I've released the parking brake and opened up the reservoir and tried many times

[@e1337prodigy]

oh wow, those jacks! I didn't even think something like that existed, I have got to invest in one of those for my low sports car.

[@Guitarfollower22]

Jason I have a question about my parking brake and I hope you can answer it. I recently bought a 99 Mustang GT with 162k miles but the car is in phenomenal shape especially considering the mods it has. Anyway the parking brake doesn't hold unless I yank it to the highest notch, and even then I'm scared that will soon give out. Does it need to be just adjusted or the entire brake line replaced? It's no problem when the car is off because I can leave the car in gear, however since my driveway is inclined, if I turn on the car but I forgot something inside my house before I leave, if I leave it in neutral with the parking brake on there is a possibility of it rolling away xD And I hate turning the car off and on just because I forgot my bottle of water inside my house. Also, I recently changed the front and rear brakes, not because of the parking brake issue, but it did not have any effect on it.

[@Oonnyyxx80]

Hi, I just bought mine 2008 MY and put it on plates today. I will have to do front discs and rear pads (discs seem to be wide enough altough rusty around the edge). Should i change them too? HELP NEEDED: Can you please send me a link on where did you get that tool for pushing rear piston back into caliper? That would really help me as i want to do these basics on my own. Big thanks. Ondrej

[@videodistro]

you can easily hang the calipers using an old wire shirt hanger. also. I use a c-clamp to push the piston back in. both work like a charm.

[@zmrmilind]

hey u forgot one thing! that is opening the brake fluid cap (if fluid is at max level and if we force the piston inside there will be increase in brake fluid in reservoir).

[@descent8275]

I thought they're open already? with a boot to expand and retract if the fluid level rises and falls.

[@DarkMan2555]

Well first you want to check and see where the fluid level is. If it's at max or near max, then you might want to remove some of the fluid (depending on how much you have to compress the piston(s)). Or, just have someone watch it and make sure that it doesn't overflow in the reservoir.

[@DarkMan2555]

@DESCENT Not the brake fluid reservoir, no

[@patrickmcguire7752]

Hey saw this video and really need your help. I have an 06 s2000 and my front driver side caliper is done and will need a new one. Can you help me out and point me in the right direction on where to buy a new one ??

[@concretecountertop]

Do more of these type of videos they're very helpful, do you learn most of what you need to know through hondas owner manual?

[@EngineeringExplained]

The old Honda manuals definitely have a lot of great information in them. Most of this info is from the service manual.

[@dekoldrick]

Easy for you to do on this car. 24 years ago, honda thought it was a good idea to use hub over rotor on my 93 accord. It's going to be a pain in the butt to change those rotors if I have to. :\

[@Shrikex357]

Don't forget anti-seize in the area between the hub and rotor, makes removal later a lot easier later on.

[@GallardoFreak888]

Don't you also need to bed the new brakes to the rotors since if this isn't done you can have uneven braking ?

[@z33tanner]

How do you feel about removing the master cylinder cap when pressing the caliper pistions back in?

[@blower1]

.....and breathe!

[@carplay5454]

hahahaahha

[@joeysmiff1746]

Where are you finding Honda torque specs, from service manual?

[@Ty5oN101]

did you use Stoptech? I'm getting 4 rotors with pads from them and about to do them on my s2000.

[@sam_thomas]

Nice video! I just replaced the front rotors and pads on my 7th gen Accord... I'm now hear a slight "bump" on the passenger side only while braking at low speeds, less then 20mph. It almost sounds like a wrapped rotor, but I put on a new rotor. I didn't use the Molykote M77 stuff, would that cause this noise?

[@terryloweh]

can you share whats the name of the car jack/lift device that you are using?

[@S2KV]

Good video, any plans on coolant change?

[@EngineeringExplained]

Perhaps a coolant change sometime, but the fluid is fine. I do need to flush the brake fluid before doing anything too exciting with it. brap brap

[@S2KV]

Awesome, can't wait. I have been wanting to change the coolant on my 06 S2000, but haven't found any good videos.

[@tangles01]

I don't think the directionallity of the veins really has much impact, but the increases surface area certainly will.

[@cobra454tim]

please don't forget to bleed the brakes too while you're there. I've been running Castro's new synthetic formula in fact I just flushed my system out of my Subaru I usually do it about every two years this time I went over to two and a half years and the fluid was still pretty darn clean I was surprised!!

[@mkevin88]

Can you post a link to that wire brush drill bit?

[@1300l]

Nice Jack! Is it eletrical or use compresed air?

[@TranTek]

Open the brake reservoir cap and make sure it is not over flow before you push the piston back and bleed that brakes while you are at it. Use 3M silicon paste for pads

[@juanchavez9380]

where did you buy that digital torque wrench? great video as usual!

[@TheLazyBear]

Where can I usually find the torque values for tightening the bolts for a specific car?

[@Alex1731777]

It is recomended to not apply anything between the pad and the piston to reduce vibrations and movement. the only place to apply a lubricant is on the brake pad shims where they stay put on the caliper bracket so they can move when the pison is released. And any rotor should be washed with water and soap to ground the rotor and wash away small particles of metal . When the brake rotors are machined, theres a magnetif field created on it and metal dust will stick to it. Most brake fabricants wont decontaminate the rotors and apply grease on them to not rust . But its really important to wash them , that way tou reduce the riscs of creating hot spots on the rotor which cause noise and warping it.

[@TheBTRGarage]

Odd timing, I am doing the same project this weekend on my e36 track car and making the same video for my channel :D Good stuff!

[@neirad537]

What's the difference between anti seize and the Cooper one

[@TheArchetypeGamer]

the rear brake cube is ok till you get a full rear caliper kit I got mine from matco for under a 100 bux, I recommend an impact driver instead of a hammer & regular screwdriver.

[@FakeNvwz]

What does it mean when your new pads dont make full contact (as in its wearing unevenly) on your rotors? Is it possible to misalign the pads??

[@EricErnst]

wow, lots of nice toys. that quickjack looks handy, and i dig the audible torque wrench. mine just click.

[@YvesMaisonnett]

I have a question not related to brake, but about suspension: is air suspension bad for stability? Like your videos bud, keep going!

[@aj2858]

Yves Maisonnett No! some cars come factory like that, best quality and adjustment, more expensive though

[@simonli6898]

I've done this to my AP1 awhile back and recall that the rear brake piston can be pushed with the 3/8" drive head by itself without any attachment...

[@tygieros]

How is the Ryobi impact wrench? I've seen it used in numerous MCM videos, now Yours. Thinking about getting one for myself, and Ryobi seems to be suspiciously cheap when compared to Milwuakee or Makita...

[@EngineeringExplained]

+tygieros hmm, maybe $150 I think I paid? Doesn't have the torque of the Milwaukee, but usually does the trick.

[@TravisL.Desmadreson]

great video. please do drum brakes next. keep up the good work.

[@roosternugget69420]

i just destroyed the rear wheel hub and disk in my s2000. had to watch and see if there was any differences. thank you for posting

[@sylak2112]

Wooha. I like those quick jack. I wish I had a garage to use this kind of device. Is the lift safe enough to work under your car? or it,s preferable to use Jack stand too ( although the quickjack make it super easy to place the stands). Great instruction, it always to me to be a hard job, but if you take you time it,s not really that bad. Cool! thank!

[@wellingbadboy]

Great video. You make it look so easy! Where can I buy that jack from it looks awesome.

[@justindesilets3526]

Alan Ton he left a link in description. $1400... better keep your standard jack.

[@ernestocastellanos6446]

Justin Désilets I better make my own jack then hahaha

[@sameergauria]

Great video. Now I understand why it's worth paying my car shop $700 to do the brake pad and rotor replacement. :)

[@nickpennekamp12]

Where is a good place to look up torque specs for various bolts on a car?

[@subieguy9035]

HI. What kinda of torque wrench is that?

[@daviddavidkam]

Someone probably have already asked this, but here goes: Brake wear. Considering in a controlled environment where the vehicle weight, travelling speed, brake size, brand, braking times/cycles etc etc are all identical. In which manner will the brake pads and discs have the least wear? Light and gentle, progressive, sharp and hard braking. Many thanks!

[@voyfan99]

I like that digital torque wrench! Gotta get me one of those!

[@Descarius]

A couple of important notes about changing the pads/rotors. Firstly, never compress the cylinder without opening the bleeder, backwash of contaminated brake fluid can mess up filters and components in the braking system, especially in regards to ABS equipped vehicles. Open bleeder, compress cylinder, close bleeder. Another important step is to burnish the brakes once you've completed the change. This process is simply executing 3 hard stops from 30 MPH or greater to mate the pads and rotors. They won't work as effectively if this process isn't done. Otherwise the video is spot on, but beware just how much the various parts can be rusted together (I recently had to take a hammer and chisel to a caliper pin to bash it out because it was that stuck).

[@aj2858]

Right, also he did not lubricate the slides, you should in every change, that way you prevent them from being stuck. Exellent work!

[@jeremywhittler8591]

Descarius What do you think happens under normal braking. You must be thinking of when the fluid was out at the master cylinder.

[@jeremywhittler8591]

People use the hydraulic pressure bleeders now. The old way can damage the master and requires two people.

[@Descarius]

jeremy whittler the cylinder self adjusts as the pads wear, thus when you put new pads in you have to press the cylinder in place, in a closed system, it forces fluid farther back than under normal braking. it's not an end of the world type thing, but does degrade the system more than if you let that excess fluid leave via bleeders when compressing the cylinder.

[@Descarius]

jeremy whittler actually, you can gravity bleed the whole system, no need for the pressure bleeder. also, we're talking simply about the small amount for compressing the cylinder.

[@rolandotillit2867]

The real ASE way to retract the caliper pistons is to first crack the bleeder open first. That's how you avoid pushing gunk up into the ABS pump.

[@theejoeylee]

unless you live in WI or MN then the bleeder breaks off 95% of the time. Best just to leave it.

[@rolandotillit2867]

How do you bleed brakes then, at the line? I like to change the brake fluid and bleed the system every time I do brakes, it's a good habit. If my customers decline that's on them, I like to give cars the TLC they deserve.

[@theejoeylee]

, yes i have cracked open a line, however, if you dont open up the system introducing air, then there is no need to bleed them every time,

[@bluej511]

Not sure that's even a possibility to be honest, the ABS pump is usually pretty far away from the brakes, especially the rear brakes, and 99% of the time the fluid just moves back in the line and causes the master cylinder reservoir to move back up in volume, there is no way that any "gunk" is going to make its way back to the master cylinder let alone the ABS pump. A brake system is very high in pressure theres no way the stuff is getting back there. Cracking a bleeder is the best way to do it i wont disagree, problem is threads aren't perfect, they can and will suck up air, how do i know? Bled my motorcycle brakes had a great feeling lever then went for a ride, oh yea it went spongy like a min later and couldn't brake, the bleeders were letting in air at the threads. Unless you are fully bleeding a system i don't recommend it, even then most of the time you never get the original feel of the brakes.

[@rolandotillit2867]

Why does your brake fluid turn from clear amber to a sludgy color then if it's not possible? Have you ever compressed a piston with the bleeder cracked open and seen what comes out?

[@ghettoflyer]

One suggestion: I like to use a little of that same high temp lube between the rotor and wheel hub surface to prevent future rust from forming making the next time easier. (I live in the rust belt, obviously this wouldn't apply for everyone.)

[@Daveed273]

I have drilled rotors, spacing being about 4-5in. between sets of holes and i can hear the pads clacking on the holes. Is this normal?

[@Thumbinn]

David Ramirez haha wtf

[@Daveed273]

Cuckboi Hoi you have no idea

[@BreakingNVain]

Yo, what do you think about dual caliper setups & if they're good, why aren't they on any factory vehicles?

[@aj2858]

Bryant Woods Not every car need that kind of performance

[@BreakingNVain]

Alex Jo-el Matos ....they don't have to put them in every car.

[@jeremywhittler8591]

Bryant Woods That is for the parking brake on factory cars,as a redundancy if the main system fails. People also retrofit them for drifting to lock up the rears to initiate a slide. They really offer no performance advantage in stopping distance itself.

[@BreakingNVain]

jeremy whittler Whaaaat, how could more calipers clamping down not improve stopping power? And come to think of it, I did see this on a ChrisFix video. He was putting them on a Mustang. That he uses for drifting.

[@Dre1485]

Would do you find torque specs? I've searched for a couple cars and I never find a clear answer, only forum responses that I'm not confident with.