How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors 94-2004 Ford Mustang

[@ejenkins77]

GREAT video! You explained every step very clearly. THANK YOU!

[@LITJoe]

This dude is awesome

[@dougpenland4890]

Excellent, very comprehensive. Thank you!

[@bg1617]

Great video, Thank you! I have one question: At 23:52 in the video, You put never-seize on both sides of the shims, correct? Both the side of the shim that sits in the channel on the mounting bracket and the side that is in contact with the ears of the pads?

[@robertbabich1154]

If you watch the video carefully you will see, I never applied "Never Seize" (as I have a habit of calling it, even though Permatex calls it Anti Seize) to the outside of the shims. Perhaps I should have explained this and cautioned against applying Never Seize to the outside of the shims. The reason you do not want to apply Never Seize to the outside of shim, is because you only want to apply it where the backing plate makes contact with the shim because that is all that is required. If you applied Never Seize to the outside of the shim, since the pad only travel about 1/16'' back and forth during normal operation and travels along the shim at an extremely slow rate due to wear, any Never Sieize that was not captured between the shim and the backing plate would wash away from heat and water and most likely contaminate the pads in the process, even applying to much right at the contact point can contaminate the pads. The truth is that your brakes will work better and last longer with no "Never Seize" as opposed to an over application of Never Seize.

[@bg1617]

@@robertbabich1154 Yes, I re-watched that section of that video, and I see now that you only applied "never seize" to the inside of the shim, not the outside. Thank you for taking the time to write the detailed response.

[@tenorman33]

My 1994 has one caliper bolt that is a torx and another that is an e-torx. Any suggestions how to get enough leverage on a torx bolt while working backward?

[@robertbabich1154]

I'm not sure if you are referring to the caliper mounting bracket bolts, or the caliper slide pin bolts. in either case the type of head should not be an issue, provided you use the right size socket/ bit. unless someone before you stripped the head of the e-torx (external torx) bolt or stripped the socket of the torx bolt. BTW an e-torx has 6 points, so a 12-point socket works perfectly well, provided it fits snuggly I personally have never come across an e-torx that didn't fit a 12-point socket, and I have never stripped an e-torx head, hence I don't even own a set of e-torx sockets. If the bolts in question are the caliper slide pin bolts you can fit a 16mm wrench over the flats on the slide pins to prevent the pins from rotating. If the bolts in question are the caliper mounting bolts use a 1/2-inch breaker bar. In all cases make sure the socket fits snuggly and is squarely on the head. and in the case of the torx bolt use a torx bit that is as short as possible to minimize the tendency of the bit to tilt and rob torque. I have actually ground down torx bits to make them shorter for very stubborn torx bolts.

[@KrishnaSingh-ow1ie]

What is the lubricant you are using

[@robertbabich1154]

Thanks for watching the video, I used Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize. It works well on the pad contact points and the slide pins, because it is fortified with graphite, so even after it dries out it still retains lubricating properties. It also works better than anti squeal compound (between the pistons and the backing plates). The key thing is to apply it sparingly and only where it is trapped between two surfaces, otherwise it will wash off from heat and water and may contaminate the pads.