How to Replace Front Strut Assembly 2007-12 Nissan Sentra

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New Strut & Spring Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1AST...
TRQ Struts are made to fit your vehicle exactly, just like the original part. Struts can wear out as early as 50,000 miles. You should inspect them regularly for leaks or wear. Save time, money, and hassle by replacing an entire strut assembly. This video shows you how to install new reliable TRQ struts in your 2007-2012 Nissan Sentra.
• Check here for more videos on the 2007-2012 Nissan Sentra • Nissan Sentra 2007-2012
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Nissan Sentra
2008 Nissan Sentra
2009 Nissan Sentra
2010 Nissan Sentra
2011 Nissan Sentra
2012 Nissan Sentra
Tools you will need:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 13mm Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 20mm Wrench
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 14mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 20mm Socket
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 32mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AAS...
• Straight Cutters
• 3/8 Inch Air Impact Gun
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Socket Driver
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Center Punch 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Hammer 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
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Nissan Sentra 2007-2012: • Nissan Sentra 2007-2012
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[@TRQ]

√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

[@bobwhammer4237]

thanx, your video gave me confidence. A few notes: 1- I didn't have to remove the axel nut 2- I did remove wipers, cowl and wiper motor assy; made accessing the upper strut mount bolts easier. 3- I used the new bolts n washer hardware that was included.

[@dmautocare]

Same here, didn't see necessary to remove de Axel nut

[@masonwade2258]

Man this is the best video of how to fix it that I've seen yet. Step by step u nail it. I appreciate it keep up the good work

[@bobwhammer4237]

Why remove the axel nut?

[@damnation3820]

Very well done guide.Appreciate the torque specifications on all the bolts. Thank you sir!

[@MrCaribe65]

Excellent video. I needed to see how the cowl was removed. Thanks for your efforts bud.

[@sh0cker1000]

Reposting becuase I think its usuful info: 2011 Nissan Sentra You don't need to remove the axel nut. Also, defitnely recommend putting some rust penetrator like WD-40 (or something stronger) on the shock bolts. Front struts took me and my dad maybe 40-50 mins for both including prep and lifting the car. Bottom rear shock bolts were so rusted took us 6 hours to take them off. We tried everything from pneumatic tools, blow torch, elbow grease, and almost just cut off the bolts but we managed to take the bolt out. Those bolts are hard to find at stores unless you go to specific online shops that could take weeks to get you the parts. We reused them as we were carful to not to damage them, but added some anti-rust coating to them if anyone wants to replace those in another 10 years lol. Another tip, we found the top bolts to the rear shocks easy to take off so start with those and use the shock as levarge to wiggly free the bottom bolt. Hope this helps!

[@Notanotheryoutuberbot]

Of least 34k this model sentras still cruising today. Thanke man

[@cotmhg8980]

Once again...FANTASTICO !

[@RMalai]

Thank you. I will follow your instructions to do it for my 07 Sentra. 150K miles with original struts.

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@6:49 Are you planning to apply Blue Thread Locker probably? Everyone applied Blue on those bolts. You said Red Thread Locker on those 3 top Mounting Bolts, but if you need to remove them later, how to go about it? It would be kind of difficult to apply heat in that area. I'm sorry if I misunderstood smth. here. Thank you again for the film.

[@ashllie3]

Omg this makes me wanna work on peoples cars watching your videos 😭now if my friends have any car troubles I can help them

[@bpeders3642]

Awesome. Doing this in about 2 weeks.

[@gerardogarcia4854]

great step by step video

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@0:23 and @10:46 the Hub Cap is not fm/this car or smth. It has 5 nuts, and the wheel has 4 Lug Nuts. Since it clicks on that probably doesn't matter, but on my 2009 Nissan Sentra the Hub Caps can't be removed unless you unscrew all 4 Lug Nuts. The Hub Nuts are secured by the Lug Nuts. I tried 1st to pop it out and it didn't come out, then I realized that the cups are kept by the Lug Nuts. These are small remarks, the film is just great, with all the torques, it is the best film to watch before that job, if you never did it before. Thank you.

[@jasonbarnett1256]

Very good guide. But I thought red thread locker was the kind that required heat to remove.

[@descalf]

1:15 Ok, so what if the upper sway bar link nut will not come off because the "something to be able to grab onto" is stripped or rounded that a wrench will not hold it? I have tried PB Blaster as well as locking vice grips and nothing will hold tight enough to get the nut off.

[@jvazquez7160]

I hate the little bolt inside the body frame dont have much space to work

[@drewhammond4952]

Does the nut/bolt for the sway bar link take a 21 or 20mm socket/wrench?

[@pedrogilalanis7246]

Did your vdc light and slipper sign came on after getting this part replaced?

[@EdercellNeres]

Very good 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@ashjensen5712]

to memorize the torque nut number to every bolt is annoying..

[@olenaerhardt7725]

@6:20 While on the vehicle, before you remove those 3 mounting nuts it is better to brake a bit (don't remove, just slightly break, maybe 1/2 turn or so) the piston rod nut (the nut in the center of the strut tower), since it would be very hard to break it when not on the car. I did so on another car (2001 Saturn SL2), but it is the same, on all 4 towers. When it is broken you can work on the assembly at your convenience without struggling w/those piston rod nuts on the ground. Now in Haynes it says to remove the cowl before those 3 mounting nuts, and that involves removing the wiper motor. I'm so glad you didn't need to remove that motor, and just removed the cowl. That is probably for other cars covered by the Haynes book I have (it is for Nissan Sentra 2007 through 2012). We have 2009 Nissan Sentra. Hopefully I don't need to remove the wiper blades motor either. Thank you so much for this great and detailed film, especially for showing how to work on the cowl in all small steps. I want to add that I bought some parts fm TRQ and they were very good. Thank you again.

[@BlinKerDreW]

I took the whole thing apart didn't have the right tools put it back together drove to AutoZone on my way home about to tear it apart 63$ in sockets later

[@EdercellNeres]

Very good 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻