How to replace Honda CRV rear brakes 2012-2016

In this video we replace the rear brake pads and rotors for a 4th generation Honda CRV. The brake caliper pins on one side were seized and it caused uneven wearing that resulted in one side wearing out before the other. I show you how to clean the brake caliper pins and service the caliper bracket. Its important to clean all the parts well or your brakes will wear out prematurely.
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#garageking

[@timthetoolman5522]

Thanks for the video. Good job on showing all of the steps. Personally, I would not reuse the old, corroded caliper pins. You did a great job of cleaning them up, but the pitting of the pin will impede the sliding action regardless of how well you lube them. And you can buy them separately for just a few bucks. I also would clean up the piston and surrounding area with brake cleaner before compressing it back into the caliper. Otherwise, you will be pressing a lot of brake dust, etc back into the caliper. And BTW, I have worked on one 2012 CR-V rear caliper 3 times but it never worked correctly. One side of the pad would seize and that would cock the pad causing real quick wear out. I bet those caliper files would have fixed it up. Now I know....

[@GarageKing]

Thanks for the comment and I appreciate your insight. You are right about the corroded pins, they will make it more difficult to slide, and once they get really bad they tend to seize up pretty quickly. As for those files, I'm glad I found them as they have come in handy, and cured some problems as the wire wheel only takes off the lights surface rust where the file will level it. Hope you had a good weekend !!

[@timthetoolman5522]

For those who are thinking of buying rebuilt calipers rather than clean up and reuse the old ones, as when they old pistons are severely corroded, be sure to take the caliper pins out of the new (rebuilt) calipers and inspect for the correct amount of lubrication. I just bought some rebuilt BrakeBest calipers. Those have the best core clean up and complete coating I have ever seen. Look as good as new. But, the caliper pins had only a bit of lube, and almost none at the top of the pin where the most corrosion will occur. Don't assume that a rebuilt, or even new caliper will have been properly lubed.

[@GarageKing]

Excellent comment and thank you for that. You are soo correct. I have purchased rebuilt calipers which had the brake line threads damaged, so inspect everything !!!

[@SteveZimmerman-nu3lx]

Great video. Very helpful. Thank you for sharing your expertise. You are appreciated!

[@GarageKing]

Thank you for the great comment !!

[@gfriedman99]

5:00 I really can't believe you resorted to pulling that spring through the hole, then deforming the new one and pushed it back into the hole. It can easily be removed from the inside just by sliding it up or down till one clip clears the edge of the hole.

[@GarageKing]

Wow, and just wow, thank you for that !! I was scratching my head on that one and as a licensed mechanic you helped me. I don't work at a Honda dealerships so this was the first time I saw those. The good thing is once I put the caliper back on the spring pushed against the pads so it was nice and tight. Appreciate your comment brother !!

[@gfriedman99]

@@GarageKing Glad to help. I realize you have a ton more rust to deal with being up north so it can get in the way at times. Also the proper way to insert the pins into the caliper is to "burp" the rubber boot. So as you push the pin in, you want to pinch the rubber boot between two fingers. This allows air to escape so you are not fighting against a cushion of air. Last, be careful with this model and other Hondas - the top and bottom pins are not interchangeable. The top pin has a beveled edge and the bottom does not. But I am sure you got it right on this job doing them one at a time. Good content. Looking forward to more.

[@GarageKing]

@@gfriedman99 Hey thanks for the follow up, I always use the "burp" method with rubber boot and for the pins I always do one at a time as I find most of the time they are different. One of the pins on the Japanese vehicles always seems to have a rubber piece on it. Thanks again !!

[@donaldlee6760]

I just did my rear CR-V brake pads and I was going to also mention removing the leaf spring from the bottom and not the hole. I admit I had a really difficult time trying to get the 3 "fingers" of the new inner pad to go back into the piston hole. I ended up using an old pad to take up some of the space and a long screwdriver and lots of cursing.

[@GarageKing]

Ya, sometimes I think if its not rusted up it may be easier just to leave it. I wanted to replace it for the video @@donaldlee6760

[@dennismount]

Great presentation ! Thanks !

[@GarageKing]

Thank you

[@karlinladeramusic]

I remember those!

[@karlinladeramusic]

Merry Christmas!

[@GarageKing]

Merry Christmas to you brother, and a Happy New Year !!!!

[@karlinladeramusic]

Nice work GK!

[@GarageKing]

Thanks as always !!!

[@customcarworker]

Thanks for doing this video

[@GarageKing]

Any time !!

[@lukescott8566]

Great video, 👌

[@GarageKing]

Thank you good sir

[@lukescott8566]

@@GarageKing you done a video how how to replace the EGR Pipe ? Honda CRV 2013

[@GarageKing]

@@lukescott8566 No only on a Nissan, and it was not very easy LOL :)

[@karlinladeramusic]

Lots of great info

[@GarageKing]

I do my best, but still not sure what to post this weekend, I better get on it !!!

[@BrandonDevlin-z8y]

jeebus.... yeah.. the climate takes it's toll, definitely worth upgrading to coated rotors, I've even given those Galvanized Brake pads a shot from NRS ( Toronto woohoo!) which I would recommend.

[@GarageKing]

Hey thanks for the comment, I checked out NRS on line and they seem pretty good. Thanks for the comment :)

[@kalimethod]

Awesome vid.

[@GarageKing]

Thank you, and hope you are having a great weekend !!

[@jop1666]

At first when you take the old pad out, the wear indicator is at the bottom but when you install the new one you put it at the top. I did mine today and I realized after all was done that I did the same thing. Do you think it's gonna be a problem in the future when the indicator touch the rotor or should I leave it like that?

[@GarageKing]

Hey thanks for the comment and yup thats fine, you just want to make sure the wear indicator is on the INSIDE pad and the reason for that is you can't see the inside pad when checking, but you can see the outside pad.

[@erikkind1224]

Good video... but the way you put the top clip in was ... weird. I dont recommend bending it in half and putting it in through the top like that. Do it from the inside.

[@GarageKing]

Ya that was weird, you got me on that one. Thanks

[@erikkind1224]

I did just finish replacing the rear brake pads on my wife's C-RV... and by using several of the little details you showed in your video... it saved me a good deal of trouble - your tips saved me time and a considerable amount of trouble. It really helped - I watched it twice prior to doing it. I'm a GarageKing FAN ! THANKS Buddy !

[@GarageKing]

@@erikkind1224 That is awesome and glad I could help (less the clip haha) Your wife will think you are superman now so ride the wave and enjoy the rest of your weekend !!!

[@laonongvnvlog9598]

thank

[@GarageKing]

Thank you

[@writersaba7864]

Hamesha khush raho my friend I 👌

[@GarageKing]

Thanks !!

[@_-0_x_-_p_0-_]

New pins are < $12. Just get new ones. If there’s that much corrosion on the outside of the pin, I’m sure the threads aren’t great either.

[@GarageKing]

Hey Thanks for the comment and you are correct, new pins are always best. Surprisingly, its always the pin body near the collar that rusts, the threads are always good as they are tight in the receiving threads away from corrosion.

[@_-0_x_-_p_0-_]

@@GarageKing not mine. 😉

[@GarageKing]

@@_-0_x_-_p_0-_ Oh my, well I'll tell you that you are in the minority camp, as its pretty rare for the threads to be corroded up. Good on you for changing them. I would change them for sure if the threads were corroded up, as they won't have the proper clamping force, and you most likely can't torque them properly. Good call !!

[@DraganLazin]

What about cleaning the bore?

[@DraganLazin]

I think you're also over-greasing those pins. You shouldn't need to force the pin down with pliers. Just an opinion.

[@DraganLazin]

That caliper hardware bracket, you can get in much easier the other way if you put in one of the ears first, then flex the other one. You don't need to fold the whole clip. Also JIS, not Phillips on that rotor screw.

[@GarageKing]

You could be right, but most of the time I find that when you grease the side of the pin see 2:14min mark that grease will seal against the o-rings, so even if the caliper is dry, when you put grease on the side it can cause the pins to do that. The odd time I had to take some grease out as the pin would hydro lock, so I knew there was too much, but it goes in, well you know there you go :)

[@GarageKing]

Good call, especially on the JIS, good thing its a large screw.

[@GarageKing]

Normally I give them a wipe down, perhaps I forgot on this one.

[@dennismount]

Only problem I’m having is trying to get the two 17mm bracket bolts off on both sides…not coming off even when using 1/2” impact gun…

[@GarageKing]

You may have to use a breaker bar, there have been a few times when I have had the same problem.

[@karlinladeramusic]

There is actually quite a bit of work that happens.

[@GarageKing]

Yup, the problem is its winter in Canada now, so good thing I filmed a lot of work this summer !!!

[@karlinladeramusic]

@@GarageKing oh smart man!

[@faisal007af]

U r suppose 2 use silicone grease on the slider pins? And the purple grease is a big NO NO!!

[@GarageKing]

You can't go by the colour. This is the stuff I use now and so far its the best stuff I have tried. I used silicone in the past and its good as well. Here is the link to research it if you want amzn.to/48zsSq4

[@cuocsongthonque9029]

thank

[@GarageKing]

Thanks !!