How to replace Tailgate Glass Switch BMW E46 / E91 / E61 Touring

[@grahamsopp]

Addendum to my message below. My early E61 switch has (had) a metal bush which of course had completely corroded, so it wouldn't come apart. Many hours of gentle grinding removed it. Your video became invaluable as it was so long between taking it apart and reassembly. Hope this helps someone else.

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Thank you, glad the video helped! 😊

[@andrewb6774]

Had the same issue with aluminium corroded on. Had to cut off the bracket from the inside and replace both that and the switch. Think that’s why the genuine switch no longer has an aluminium sleeve.

[@acherion]

Great video, my switch had broken at its base so I bought a new one. Your video was invaluable, thanks for the step by step and clear instructions. The switch inside to pop open the glass was a bit difficult but that’s BMW for ya haha!

[@toonmag50]

Very clear and precise vid Followed your step by step guide to the point of removing the locking mechanism.... then.... found that the previous one owner from new must have had a water leak into the boot area ,and employed a monkey who has sealed the lock to spindle to the point of impossible removal of spindle without risk of breaking the glass. I only wanted to open the window to get access to the "diversity aerial" in the spoiler on the hatch,as the fob to car communication has failed a unable to use the remote. This BMW ( my wife bought it)is the pest car whose gifts never end for me!

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Glad you liked the video! Sucks that someone would seal it up like that, we see things like that all the time, a nightmare to rectify!

[@shaveoffnow]

Thanks for this. Really clear guide and it worked a treat. Took a while to pop the window out with the Allen key mind 😬

[@theautomotiveapproach]

You're welcome! Definitely a tricky one to pop the glass first time! 😅

[@LukeMorris11]

Thank you for this guide, explained it perfectly and replaced my switch without issues.

[@theautomotiveapproach]

You're welcome! 👍

[@MNicholson90g]

Great tutorial thanks! I've subscribed and will definitely use your videos again

[@0044512]

Great video, only did this last week. Needed to replace the wiper piece too as had ceased up completely.

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Thanks buddy, glad you liked the video! It’s pretty common for the wiper spindle to seize up, thankfully it’s easy to replace 👍

[@grahamsopp]

Yes the spindle is corroded, but is out already. Full lube before it goes back in. The joys of old cars

[@brycebrown1]

Great video thanks, very clear! Question, mine (E61) has started popping open itself when we've had a lot of rain. I've sprayed with WD40 and aired it which has worked, for now. Do you think this is a failing switch, or moisture getting in? Or both? Thanks in advance.

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Sounds more like an electrical short in your tailgate wiring near the hinge, rather than the actual switch. Best get it diagnosed by a professional just in case 👍👍

[@brycebrown1]

@@theautomotiveapproach thanks 😊

[@1000hpwnd]

Bought oem switch for 60€ with discount 😂 thanks for the video👍

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Not a bad price for OEM! Glad the video helped 👍👍

[@ampunkt1155]

Would like to add that sometimes the whole thing is not so easy to get rid of! You have to use a plastic wedge that is a bit wider and higher, about 5mm between the disc and the wiper axle bearing, then separate it from the button! It's insanely difficult to get off because the rubber has seized on the button!

[@stevethorogood]

Very good and instructive video, my thoughts are with the switch itself and what the replacement being a new Genuine, so expensive, or what you used here, mine had decaying terminals in the switch and also the old mounting gasket was tired your one here looks ok but different seal gasket and the bush in the middle is not there if that matters much, some thoughts on that. thankyou

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Hi, the one we used had no issues once installed and tested, hope this helps!

[@ThomasBachTengberg]

Thank you for your perfect video :) It is very helpful. Have you made a guide for completely replacing the tailgate window and hinges in a Bmw 320 uy11 touring from 2011? My problem is that the hinges are broken, so the window does not stay open by itself. I wish to replace the hinges.

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Hi Thomas, no sorry we haven’t made a tutorial for that, its not something we’ve ever had to replace 👍

[@joetaylor863]

Have you got a video on the actual boot sensor? As mine does as you explained at the start error saying boots open... and the lights on

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Hi Joe, no sorry we don't have a video for that, it might be worth checking for a wiring fault in the tailgate wiring. Where the harness bends as the boot opens and closes, over time the cables will start to crack. You normally get a few other problems like remote locking not working or poor radio signal. It coould be either without getting it diagnosed properly 👍👍

[@noahcampeau9852]

Thanks for the excellent guide! I have successfully replaced, and the switch now works as normal. However, sometimes after closing, the car thinks the boot is still open, as the inner boot lights remain on and the dashboard computer says the boot is still open. It can take several goes at shutting the boot again to rectify the problem. Any ideas? Many thanks

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Hi! You’re welcome! We really enjoy making useful content like this! This could be a couple of things, you may have a wiring fault in the tailgate wiring. Where the harness bends as the boot opens and closes, over time the cables will start to crack. You normally get a few other problems like remote locking not working or poor radio signal. Alternatively It could well be actual boot lock actuator itself rather than the tailgate glass, fairly easy job, you’ll have to take the entire boot trim off to get access to it. It’s only a few bolts and a plug to undo. Hope this helps! 👍

[@noahcampeau9852]

@@theautomotiveapproach Great! Thanks for the reply, I will take a look

[@morgan5385]

@@noahcampeau9852 if that doesn’t work the metal U shaped joint the boot latches onto might need adjusting up so the latch closes fully. Only three torx bolts need loosening to move it backwards.

[@alxl.5756]

Thanks !💪

[@grahamsopp]

got to the 4:00 part and my bracket is completely stuck fast. i think previous repairer may have either sealed it for water ingress or the switch gasket is caught in the hole. that never happens on demo videos :(

[@theautomotiveapproach]

That sucks buddy! 😟 Could even be corrosion around the wiper arm spindle has seized it in the hole, maybe try plenty of penetrating fluid and gently rotating it back and forth to see if it frees off 👍

[@stivesclaret76]

On my E91, the glass tailgate opens and closes securely but the interior boot lights stay on and the dash warning light comes on. The wiper also doesn't work, but the heated rear window does. IYO will replacing this switch cure this problem? Many thanks

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Hi, chances are it'll either be the tailgate switch or the main tailgate latch itself, you may also have a wiring fault in the tailgate wiring. Where the harness bends as the boot opens and closes, over time the cables will start to crack. You normally get a few other problems like remote locking not working or poor radio signal. If you've got access to INPA or ISTA for diagnostics, you should be able to see which one is causing the issue. Hope this helps! 👍

[@stivesclaret76]

@@theautomotiveapproach thank you very much. I'll replace it and see how it goes and will let you know. Great video.

[@78Ladyinblack]

Hi. I replaced microswicth and shaft pivot i assembled as it should but dont know why the wiper arm its not moving. The open and close works any idea?

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Could be the motor has failed or it hasn’t been plugged in when reassembled? Also worth checking fuses just in case

[@78Ladyinblack]

Failed how? It's just one plug or I missing something? If the window open with the switch why the motor of the wiper shouldn't work. I'll check the fuse as well but I doubt. It's the second motor I ordered the first one was stiff so this other one seems fine as free

[@theautomotiveapproach]

@@78Ladyinblack The wiper motor and tailgate switch are two completely separate things, chances are it's a bad wiper motor (these fail over time as do most things), it hasn't been installed properly or it's a fuse

[@ja4504]

Zrób to samo z autem które ma 23lata

[@D.J.ZAPELO]

i can't get that mechanism out, i unbolt everything but it's just stuck?

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Chances are, yes it’s stuck if you’ve followed all the steps. Lots of penetrating fluid and be careful not to smash the glass

[@D.J.ZAPELO]

@@theautomotiveapproach Yours came out so easily. My does not move a little bit. I am actually afraid that i will break the glass. I will probably take it to the dealer. :(( By by 20-30 eur. THX for the DIY anywhay.

[@THR_-]

Hello, on my e46 touring the piece at 4:00 doesn't come out. Seems like it's stuck in place. What should I do?

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Sounds like it could be seized in there, double check you've removed everything from the outside of the glass including the large nut under the wiper arm. I'd soak it in some penetrating fluid for a while to try loosen it off, be very careful as if you're too forceful you could smash the window! Hope this helps 👍

[@zachalferez-delfin4479]

Hi so I have the similar problem, but I’m having problem with the window latch, I was wondering if you guys can help me figure out how to take it out? Or maybe fix it?

[@zachalferez-delfin4479]

I own a 2003 BMW E46 325xi

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Hi Zach, sorry that's not something we'd be able to help with

[@johnpetersen8116]

Tailgate switch test with an ohm meter reveals a known good reading of 332 ohms of resistance when the switch is activated. Test this first.

[@Sageh44]

Hi, Maybe you can advise? E91 I have an odd issue. I get a tailgate open warning light on the dash intermittantly. The glass door or tailgate are not actually open and the interior boot light doesn't come on. But I can hear the boot cover switch clicking just like I have opened the glass door and the cover wants to go up.. I am sure it must be a faulty switch somewhere. What do you think? Any help would be appriciated. Thank you

[@theautomotiveapproach]

This could be a couple of things, you may have a wiring fault in the tailgate wiring. Where the harness bends as the boot opens and closes, over time the cables will start to crack. You normally get a few other problems like remote locking not working or poor radio signal. Alternatively It could well be actual boot lock actuator itself rather than the tailgate glass, fairly easy job, you’ll have to take the entire boot trim off to get access to it. It’s only a few bolts and a plug to undo. Hope this helps! 👍

[@Sageh44]

@@theautomotiveapproach Thank you for the heads up. I will do a little more trouble shooting. But wondered if there was a switch to detect the glass on the tailgate is open or is that all in with the actuator?

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Honestly I’m not sure, I don’t believe there is but I could be wrong

[@ricards8114]

Hey, I'm having the same problem as you described. Did you fix the issue, if so, what was the issue? The switch, actuator or wiring?

[@Sageh44]

@@ricards8114 Hi, I haven't looked yet (Cold and Crap weather etc) but I suspect it's a wiring issue in the rubber boot that connects the tailgate. I would like to see a wiring diagram if anyone can find one?

[@camcov4324]

I followed the steps but the part is slightly different on my car and the mechanism is sealed to the glass so it seems it cannot be removed (I think other people may have commented about something similar). Any idea how to deal with that, other than get a completely new panel? (£500 a pop v £10 part on eBay… not exactly the solution I’m looking for on a 12 year old car lol)

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Sounds like it's probably seized in there, I don't believe they were ever sealed from the factory. Double check you've removed everything from the outside of the glass including the large nut under the wiper arm. I'd soak it in some penetrating fluid for a while to try loosen it off, twisting it gently in both directions might free it off. Be very careful as if you're too forceful you could smash the window! Hope this helps 👍

[@AlinPurcaroiu]

just drilled a bunch of holes to finally get it down. Replaced the micro switch, still not working. Going to check the wires next. F.... hell.

[@mrsolodolo5770]

Same issue with the wiper mechanism being stuck here. Did anyone else who ran into this issue solve it? If so how? There is literally no play on the part, all bolts temoved and plenty of wd40

[@toonmag50]

Yes, had same problem. Couldn't split the lock and wiper spindle, but I thought previous owner must have used some sort of glue Temporarily abandoned the job.

[@robertmitchell8256]

Hi The Automotive Approach, thank you for the excellent video, very much appreciated. I have a 2011 plate BMW 318d touring E91 - with an intermittent central locking problem. I have had a frustrating problem for around the last couple of years but now it seems to now be getting much worse. The problem appears to be related to the rear window hatch. Sometimes the car will unlock/lock and sometimes it won't (with the FOB - both FOBS have been tried and tested and both are the same). If the car won't unlock, I have to open the drivers door with the FOB key, the alarm then goes off until I insert the FOB into the dash, then the alarm stops, I can then open the others doors with the central locking button on the dash. When I try to then lock the car again I normally have problems, but often after numerous shutting of the rear window hatch it might then lock. If I hold the rear window hatch open, then it locks/unlocks straight away suggesting that there is no problem with the FOBS or receiver. My assumption is, that it must be related to the catch/lock/microswitch that the rear window hatch closes into to or with, that it's not seeing it as properly closed. Have you heard of this issue before related to the part in your video? s and if so what was the fix please? Many thanks for your time.

[@theautomotiveapproach]

Hi, that sounds like a wiring problem for the boot harness. Over time the cables that bend and flex with the boot opening will start to crack and break, causing intermittent faults like this one. Alternatively it may be a failing diversity antenna amplifier which is in the top of the boot itself, but normally if they are failing then you’ll get problems with radio signal and the heated rear windscreen. I’d recommend getting it professionally diagnosed by a good BMW independent garage to see if the control modules are responding correctly. Hope this helps! 👍