How to replace the IWE actuator on a Ford F-150 truck.

I replaced the IWE actuator on this Ford F-150 truck because it was grinding. This is a common problem but it is an easy fix.
Genuine Ford IWE Actuator
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Mighty vac
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IWE Actuator
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IWE Solenoid
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IWE Check Valve
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Blackhawk B6350 Black/Red Fast Lift Service Jack - 3.5 Ton Capacity
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Pro-LifT T-6903D Double Pin Jack Stands - 3 Ton
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TRQ Front 4 Piece Steering Kit CV Axle Shaft Assembly & Wheel Hub Bearing Kit New for 2009-2010 Ford F150 Four Wheel Drive with 6 Lug Wheels
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[@Dave-nc1zt]

You sir, are a jedi, I’m been pretty anxious about this job and after watching your video I have the confidence. You’ll be with me every step of the way lol. Thanks again dude

[@LatinStang1966]

Excellent demonstration of changing the IWE, very clearly explained. I have a 2020 F150 that the dealer failed to diagnose 2 times after I explained as best to describe the sounds it was making. After taking it to a test drive with dealer foreman, he diagnosed it within minutes after I got on the road. Good I have bumper to bumper service for this vehicle. Now I have a good understanding on how the whole component of the IWE works and how it's fixed.

[@MrTmq40]

Great videos, thanks very much. Mine was a two-fold problem, dirty check valve and the right side IWE had failed. With the help of your video, I was better able to understand how the system worked and how to troubleshoot. I blew out all the lines, cleaned the check valve, and just finished changing out the bad IWE. Just in time for winter. Thanks again for the excellent videos.

[@TheTruthBeToId]

Dude, the quality and explanation is incredible. I understood everything with ease.

[@nicksinclair1857]

Gotta say man, this video helped out alot. I was pissed and confused bcs i couldn’t figure out what was going wrong but you saved me on this one! Appreciate the video

[@JP-bg1ys]

This was a huge help. Just used this video to replace front drivers side IWE on my 2013 F150 FX4. I didn't have to disconnect the tire rod like you said. Thank you for helping others.

[@MohammadHasan-gh1gb]

Thank you so much man. You have really saved me alot of bucks solving this issue, after the dealer came back stating they could not find the problem. And bluntly They came back to me that it is best to replace the whole axle (without them diagnosing the exact problem). The noise only came after an offroad trip where i had to engage 4low. THANKS AGAIN MAN.

[@rogerduroux4616]

Great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and giving me the confidence to tackle this job myself allowing me to save the money on a mechanic. My old one was in 2 parts just like the one you showed in the video. Very helpful and well explained. The only problem I had was finding just the right spot for everything so I could pull the axel shaft out. Once I found the perfect spot, everything came out and went back in very easily. Thanks again for the great instruction. God Bless!

[@kstimberghost3283]

I just replaced my check valve. Hopefully that was my issue. 2013 F150. Took my truck to two shops and neither could replicate the noise. Found some videos online and my noise sounds very similar. If the check valve don’t work, I’ll try and figure out which one is bad and give it a whirl. Thanks for the video.

[@davidschulze2040]

Awesome video. Thanks so much for sharing this. This video and the one on how to figure out what is causing the sound have been so helpful.

[@timwade8629]

1st off great video and very informative. I just replaced this in my 2014 on the driver's side. The only difference l had, was l had to remove the tie rod to have enough room.

[@GoArmy418]

Your videos are excellent. Kudos!

[@user-hq7eh5ld4g]

Forgot to torque down the center bolt on that axle I believe its 30lbs. . But a very important and detailed job, thanks....

[@roberto9787]

I like that if the system fails you at least have 4wd till you fix it

[@737mechanic]

On the earlier models, it was the opposite and people would get out in the woods and mud and it would go out and then they couldn't get back so Ford changed it.

[@roberto9787]

@737mechanic exactly

[@diegotejeda0815]

Great video. Thinking I have the same issue on my 2014 F-150. I changed the solenoid and check valve. The loud noise went away, now I got a quieter but still audible and annoying noise. Sounds like grinding so I assume it's the IWE actuator. Will grab a vacuum gauge and test it out.

[@mikeramsey9747]

My drivers side started making occasional grinding yesterday and I suspect that this is the issue, hopefully I can diagnose via what you showed to confirm my suspicion and then do the repair myself so that I can save some money.

[@mikeramsey9747]

UPDATE: I was surprised to discover that the plastic tubing down to the IWE's had actually broken in several places. When I was tracing the tubing it actually started shattering into small pieces.

[@jimspringer]

@@mikeramsey9747 did replacing the tubing solve your issue then and you didn't have to mess wit the IWE?

[@jeremiahwhite2851]

Thank you very much for this information.

[@rip9452]

Can I use the same procedure on a o5.. every one take off brakes rotor tie rod ? You simply cut all that out …Genius!!!

[@seventhdeadlysyn6092]

I'm about to have to do this. Thanks for the help!!

[@HouseCallAutoRepair]

Just ran into an issue with these, on a 2011 3.5 ECO. Same symptoms... insufficient amount of vacuum. These are turbo engines, thus only develope vacuum at idle and deceleration. These models use an electric motor driven vacuum pump that supplies vacuum boost to a vacuum reservoir, the IWE management system, and the vacuum brake booster. This pump runs whenever system vacuum levels drop below a given value. When this pump fails, the system vacuum level drops to the point of braking assist losing some of it's vacuum, and the IWE's failure to maintain FULL disengagement. (But it tries, thus the grinding noise)

[@sqd37l]

I wish that you were my neighbor!

[@737mechanic]

Maybe I am. Do you live in Texas?

[@sqd37l]

I am in Houston for winters and for summers we go to Wisconsin. We go back and forth. retired L.E.@@737mechanic

[@ronbo64]

I had to replace mine, had been bothering me for a couple years and dealer said nothing was wrong.

[@muskogee9948]

Great video! I’ve subscribed.

[@mr.peabody3509]

Great video, great description, easy to follow, very thorough and complete. Very grateful for how you put this together. Question: I noticed A clunking and clanking like gravel in my left front wheel at higher speeds on a slight right bend on the highway. It went Clink Clink for just a little bit and then “kudunk”, then stopped for hours. I happened to take a 500 mile round-trip and it did it a few times on that trip. After I heard the clanking and then the “kudunk” it stopped, is it possible that there was damage in that? I replaced the IWE check valve today and had not heard it since on my test drive. Is it possible that the hub is damaged? I tested the four-wheel-drive mechanisms on dirt in four wheel low and it worked fine. There was a click when did engaged on four wheel low, is that normal? It’s the kudunk sound That worries me. It’s almost as if I ran over something because I could feel the momentary vibration through the chassis like I hit a rubber tire or something. Thoughts?

[@737mechanic]

If everything is working ok I wouldn't worry about it unless you start hearing it again. Could be a rock or something that got thrown up under the truck but unless it comes back again I wouldn't worry.

[@mr.peabody3509]

@@737mechanic thanks for the quick reply. Subscribed and liked. I’ll be a regular.

[@Deputydog-xk5jl]

Excellent video thanks sir!

[@Chasepalmer1885]

Can this issue also seem like a bad hub? I have a grinding feeling on the driver side and also in the gas pedal which I believe to be a hub bearing, but it has zero play when moving the tire at 3 or 9 o’clock. There really isn’t a noise it’s just the grinding feeling and it happens in both 2 and 4wd

[@jayrod7724]

Did u ever figure this out?

[@Chasepalmer1885]

I did not it quit for a long time so I figured maybe it was a fluke with the IWE sticking or something but it has recently started again this time I can put it in AWD and it seems a lot better so I’ll be replacing it soon

[@jayrod7724]

@@Chasepalmer1885 i replaced solenoid, IWE, front and rear drive shafts still not the problem.. leaning towards the hubs now

[@Chasepalmer1885]

@@jayrod7724 yeah I did the hub first so I guess I’m going the opposite direction you are. Did you change the check valve? The updated blue color one from ford is the one to look for it’s by the brake booster

[@jayrod7724]

@@Chasepalmer1885 did that

[@ericgall4184]

This was a great video to understand the IWE vacuum system. On a 2017 Navigator Reserve I am hearing a noise from the driver side front end that is always there, regardless if I am in 4X2 or 4X4. I used your method of jacking it up and spinning the wheel to see when the 4WD engages and it works as you stated when the vehicle is running. Once I turn it off, both front axles re-engage. I can hear the vacuum release from the under the hood a few seconds after I turn it off. Is this normal, or should the vacuum remain even after the vehicle is turned off? I am now leaning towards a wheel bearing issue if this is normal

[@fern1286ft]

Is it safe to drive while you have a bad IWE?

[@737mechanic]

I don't see why it would be unsafe.

[@jayrod7724]

Was hopeful when I saw this video, Replaced my IWE solenoid and actuators but still getting grinding noises any insight?

[@737mechanic]

You need to buy a handheld vacuum gauge/pump and test all the vacuum system. 1. Make sure you have over 15inhg of vacuum at the IWE. 2. If you don't and it is an EcoBoost engine check the vacuum at the mechanical vacuum pump. 3 if it is good there then you have a problem in between the vacuum pump and the IWE. Here is the actually mightyvac. amzn.to/49BeVsA Here is a cheaper alternative. amzn.to/468mR1j

[@jayrod7724]

It definitely holds vaccum could it be wheel hubs or are you convinced IWE system

[@737mechanic]

@@jayrod7724 If the hubs and axles are factory and it was working at one time and then started grinding that tells me the vacuum is either weak or leaking. You say the system is tight, how much vacuum do you have?

[@jayrod7724]

@@737mechanic the IWE lines hold a minimum of 15mmhg consistently. The vaccum is pulling about 20 mmhg What is the ideal # the vaccum should be pulling? When I disconnected line from hub and connected to the vaccum pump it stayed at about 20mmhg consistently

[@737mechanic]

@@jayrod7724 Hopefully you mean inhg (inch's of mercury) instead of mmhg because 16/inhg equals 406/mmhg and 15 or 16 in the min your vacuum pump should be able to pull.

[@davidaubin3449]

Great video thanks a lot.

[@nimrodpaul6875]

I did the check valve and solenoid,, now im going to go over hoses,, son hit a hard bump he says and his 2011 started making the "grind" noise shortly after warming up and driving around 10 minutes under accell only and not in 4 wheel drive at all. So im no triple a mechanic,, i just did his calipers, rotors, and pads and bled the system, do all our own tune ups etc,, how difficult you consider this job of iwe 's if i need to get into it? Im trying to save the boy some money.. i have plenty tools , jacks etc. Northern ky just seems to be rediculous on shop work cost.. From sound of my story would ya think i could handle it? Not putting ya on the spot lol, no really what ya think.. thanks for the video!, subbed!

[@737mechanic]

I think you should be able to get it changed out yourself. Watch this video and others and between 2 or 3 different videos you will have all the knowledge you need to get it down. Just be careful when you tighten the small axle nut up so that you don't break it.

[@frostydog7896]

If it's just happening to one side and during acceleration, is it safe to say it's just the iwe? If it was the solenoid or the check valve that was bad would it try to have LH and RH try to engage?

[@737mechanic]

If the leak was bad enough both would try to engage, the problem is the r/h side is farther away from the vacuum source and both IWE's might not have the same exact amount of spring pressure so if there is a small leak the IWE with the weaker spring will start to engage first. I have seen leaking hoses cause the r/h and the l/h start to grind.

[@frostydog7896]

@@737mechanic ok sounds good. I have it coming from just the LH side. I did replace the IWE and so far it's good. Excellent video.

[@thejourneymen7722]

Probably was damaged by whoever put the new axle shaft in I’m guessing they didn’t pull a vacuum on the actuator before installing the new axle causing it to bind up and put force on it destroying the actuator much like this guy just did and never use an impact on the axle shaft end nut to tighten it up because you will snap it off 90% of the time it only calls for 25 pounds of torque which is minuscule.

[@737mechanic]

So out of the about 200 of these I have done I have NEVER pulled a vacuum while installing one, and I have never snapped an axle nut which BTW the torque is 30ft/lbs but then again I am experienced. BTW the manual doesn't tell you to pull a vacuum. What would pulling a vacuum do for you anyway?

[@jeoz0420]

Jack

[@kwowoah]

If it was a bad IWE… would it be making the noise all the time or only on acceleration. That’s the only times it’s making the noise. I’ve changed out the check valve and still happening. Before I go changing the IWE assembly. Just curious if it would be happening all the time or just on acceleration if it’s the IWE assembly.

[@737mechanic]

It can happen in both scenarios, make sure the vacuum system is all leak-free. When you accelerate the engine vacuum drops and it uses the stored vacuum in the reservoir to keep the vacuum applied to the IWE's to keep them disengaged. If you have a leak in the system the vacuum could drop low enough so the IWE starts to engage thus you get the grinding. I have a video that shows how to troubleshoot the system. You don't have to have a mighty vac but it would be very useful if you did. Below is the video and a link to the mighty vac if you want to order one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGqvmWWdn9pogqs amzn.to/3pbiIpr

[@lancecollins1699]

I may have this issue....what were the symptoms that led you to the problem?

[@737mechanic]

Intermittent grinding or rattling sound.

[@kadenpasawicz7430]

What if this didn’t solve my issue.. it seems like my check valve and solenoid are working ok

[@737mechanic]

You need to get a hand vacuum pump so you can apply a vacuum and check to see if you have a vacuum and go from there. I do have a video on troubleshooting the system. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGqvmWWdn9pogqs

[@oneway707]

Do you know if: while Navigator is running (in park) with in 4x2 (vacuum on) ...and then I shut if off, if there will be a vacuum release near the check valve / solenoid?

[@737mechanic]

I believe the only release is by natural leaking out slowly. On good tight systems the vacuum can still be there for long time with engine off.

[@REKLAW47]

So question got a 2012 ford f150 4x4 and when I'm in 4 wheel drive I notice what feels like random grinding not co stant and slight clicking

[@737mechanic]

This video might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGqvmWWdn9pogqs

[@daves77]

wheres your jack stands?

[@737mechanic]

Its best to have Jack stands in place but as long as I don't have to get under the vehicle some I don't worry about it.

[@TheRchavez31]

I have this issue on my 2013 f150. Passenger side IWE does not disengage. Vacuum signal seems to be ok. Although I have no way to accurately test it, However testing it with the tip of my finger it feels pretty much the same as drivers side, which disengages ok, I thought of a faulty IWE, Replaced it and still is not dissngeaging. Any suggestion of what could be going wrong.

[@737mechanic]

So when you say it won't disengage you mean it keeps the axle coupled with the hub? If that is the case lift the front wheels off the ground and pull tge vacuum line off and it should be engaged, then pull a vacuum with a mighty vac and see if it disengages, if it doesn't the iwe is bad.

[@TheRchavez31]

@@737mechanic Hi! thanks for getting back! Yes what I mean is that the IWE wont go into two wheel drive mode on the passenger side! Its like I am driving in 3 wheel drive all the time! I have replaced the IWE and the Check Valve as well as the selenoid! Vaccum seems to be alright! Could this have to do with a misplaced wheel bearing?

[@737mechanic]

@@TheRchavez31 I would buy a mighty vac “. amzn.to/3pZB1hR “ so you can jack that wheel off the ground and manually pull a known good vacuum on it and make sure it holds that vacuum. If it does hold a vacuum and it still doesn’t release the hub the IWE is either bad or bound up. When you replace the IWE make sure to rotate the hub so the teeth of the axle align in the hub. I can’t imagine the bearing causing the problem but anything could be possible.

[@Ryan-po1ho]

Hey I have the exact same problem with my 2013 f150 where one side is stuck engaged and the other side is disengaged was just wondering if I should drive it in 4x4H or just leave it in 2wd when driving it to the shop to get fixed. Thanks

[@737mechanic]

I would leave it in 2wd because the transfer case is still in natural and the other side is disengaged.