How to replace the lower control arm replacement, front wheel drive car. Volvo 850, S70, V70, etc.

[@mds2465]

I’m actually very impressed that you were able to get a control arm out of a salvage vehicle without breaking the balljoint boot. That’s almost a guarantee anytime I take one of those things out.

[@RobertDIY]

Easy to do with these Volvos.

[@BackyardSpaceProgram]

Once again I'm back here watching your How to videos. My V70 did not pass inspection, bad ball joint on one side, bad tie rod on the other. Today I found and bought two Meyle control arms on marketplace (in the same town as me, even got them delivered), both new in box with bolts and nuts, both reinforced (powder coated steel), apparently the same kind Swedish police used back in the day, paid only $70 for both, found the same ones on Ebay for $105 each plus shipping. Great as always Robert, stay safe kind Sir!

[@RobertDIY]

Awesome!

[@anttisuvanto7398]

Thanks for the tips, took me about half an hour to replace arm! Much obliged!

[@RobertDIY]

Antti Suvanto Good deal, thanks for watching.

[@kylemarisafoster1897]

I had an accident that caused me to replace the control arm, steering knuckle, cv axle, and strut assembly. All your videos are very informative and much appreciated. Thanks Robert!!! Keep on keeping on brother!!!!

[@RobertDIY]

+Kyle & Marisa Foster you are welcome.

[@beoutside]

Thanks Robert , On my 99 they are the 4 bolt style and you have to slightly lift the motor to get at and replace all 4 bolts to subframe. Thanks for the tip on loading before final torque of ball joint to hub assembly and control arm to subframe. I replaced with ones made in germany from FCP groton 83 each. Lifetime warranty replacement ( you pay for return shipping though)for cheaper Karlyn brand I put in 40000 miles ago.... now running great again at 260000 :)

[@RobertDIY]

+Donny McClure thanks for sharing.

[@RobertHarr1son]

This was very helpful. My T5 needed new arms and this video answered all the questions I had. Thanks

[@RobertDIY]

you are welcome.

[@melissakruse480]

Thanks for posting. I always check your vids before I work on my car. Gives me an idea of what I"m getting into!

[@RobertDIY]

Melissa Kruse Good deal. Thanks for watching.

[@aphex14]

Easy change and very great detailed instructions. Thank you Robert!

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome.

[@DuffTerrall]

Hi there sir. Glad you're here as I have definitely been living on your channel while learning to fix my 1998 V70. Fun problem I ran into was that I was having a bear of a time getting the new ball joint into the steering knuckle. I had everything moving and cleaned out, but the darn peg would not go into the hole. After some searching, I took the advice to remove the sway bar link, and with a jack under the control arm was able to get the assembly to go together. I guess something about how it's twisted with the car up on one side like this can cause issue? Anyway, if it's hard to install the new ball joint, you can try that. Don't try what I did, and end up damaging the rubber boot, and now I get to do the job again later with even MORE new parts... sigh...

[@RobertDIY]

Ouch

[@sfitz-rp4du]

Thanks much Robert! My '98 S70 nut & bolts we're 19mm on bolt, 18mm on nut. Also 120 degree additional tighten turn is from 12:00 to 4:00 if you think in terms of a clock.

[@RobertDIY]

Yes, it's 2 flat spots on the hex nut.

[@sfitz-rp4du]

Thanks so much for that one. Even better. Fighting the ball joint part now to get it out. I guess whack it with sledge??? Prying not working.

[@RobertDIY]

After the subframe bolts are out and it is hanging by the ball joint, remove the ball joint bolt, spray some penatrant on it and stick a screw driver or something in the slot and pry it open a little WITHOUT breaking the tip of it off. Then tap it out.

[@sfitz-rp4du]

Thanks Robert. I let the penetrating oil do it's job then hit it with sledge repeatedly and pretty hard sitting on stool. Popped it out! Hope I didn't hurt anything in process. Part looks like it was part of Titanic. Enjoy the Superbowl!

[@sfitz-rp4du]

Also, my bolt sizes on ball part we're 15mm on nut, 17mm on bolt. My bolt sheared off with force of breaker bar. Was able to avoid complete disaster by using penetrating oil and gently cracking and slightly rotating bolt back and forth a few degrees. Applied more penetrating oil. Did complete rotation by hand, then spun it fast both ways with impact wrench. Was able to tap out pretty easy then. Hope this helps others.

[@nicklemarr]

Great video as always. I got a set of two heavy duty ones much larger and stronger than stock left and right, for $46 shipped to my door on eBay, but let me tell you, the rear lower control arms. I understand what the engineers were doing, but man, the worst experience I've ever had lmao.

[@RobertDIY]

Ouch, have not had to do much on the rears yet.

[@TheFalconMoon]

Thank you for your help in these videos. I would not have known to load the control arms before tightening the nuts. Extremely helpful into! I check with you before I do any new-to-me work on my Volvo. I appreciate your dedication to good videos. As a quick FYI, I purchased my control arms with ball joints new for $26 each from RockAuto.com. I've had very good experiences with that site and every product I've received has been great.

[@RobertDIY]

Ok

[@CaptainCheezmo]

Thank Robert! Just got my control arms in and will be starting the replacement right after I find where I put my ratchet set! Haha. The Thermostat is next. I'm pretty sure it's stuck open, because when I'm driving in cool air, my temp needle sits near the cold line, but when I'm in stop and go city driving, it comes up. Also barely any heat out of the console. Lemme know if you have the same conclusion!

[@MrOrange112]

Thanks as alwaus Robert, for a very handy video. Youve helped me tons with your videos. Like you where in this video im not always in a postion to just pay for a garage to do the work on my car. Which means i have to get my hands dirty 😂 Really appreciate all the information youve put out over the years. Your a life saver. Alot of these jobs ive never touched before. God bless you Sir.

[@RobertDIY]

Glad to help

[@agapesong]

Aloha Robert. Thank you for the great low tech video solutions for my old Volvos. I just bought my 15th Wagon, a 98 V70 needful of tie rod ends, balljoints and control arms. You make it look easy.

[@RobertDIY]

Nice, hope all goes well.

[@winterwolf2164]

I appreciate the video, Robert. Gonna be working on a buddies car today.

[@RobertDIY]

Good deal.

[@zx8401ztv]

Smashing tutorial as allways robert :-)) I did wonder if the control arm had to be straight when tightening up the frame bolts, hard to tell how far the weight of the car compresses the suspension. We cant allways afford new parts, but your experence has got you a decent one :-))

[@RobertDIY]

Sometimes I find good parts, sometimes I have to keep looking.

[@rascallion1583]

Robert DIY always on point ! Thanks for sharing those good tips

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome.

[@kyledupont7711]

I got the control arms for my new Volvo s70 for 40 bucks each on eBay. they're pretty damn easy to replace. I've been really surprised to see that almost all the common issues Volvos have this car had. Leaking heater core bad ball joints bad wheel bearing, all the common check engine light causes like cleaning the throttle body, it's coming along nicely though very easy to work on so far

[@RobertDIY]

+Kyle Dupont Good deal. Happy driving. How many miles?

[@kyledupont7711]

+Robert DIY 130k

[@davidleader4799]

Good job, Robert! Thank you

[@RobertDIY]

You are very welcome

[@zakmedina711]

your so smart i love your vids

[@RobertDIY]

+Zak Medina thanks for watching.

[@michaelstrickland2219]

+Robert DIY pls help me with mine I hit a curb n it had my lower arm bent more towards the passenger and the wheel rubs

[@rogerjolley6142]

I need to do my 850 control arms , thanks for that robert

[@RobertDIY]

+roger jolley you are welcome

[@1mandanceparty]

great video as usual. Thanks Robert!

[@RobertDIY]

Thank you for watching.

[@guitartricky]

Nice work Robert!

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks.

[@EmilBMWable]

dear Robert, love your videos. they are really helpfull. we have a 98 c70 ourselves, great car. what do you think about the newer p2 volvos?

[@RobertDIY]

Post 2003 they are real good vehicles. All of them are computerized so they are more expensive to get repaired.

[@aighla08]

great videos it helps me out a lot

[@RobertDIY]

aighla08 Thanks for watching.

[@garyzach5478]

+Robert DIY tbm,v70 2001

[@jkw24691]

Your the best. Thank you.

[@RobertDIY]

You're welcome!

[@clariona]

SPINDLE with Hub Bearing Removal by Robert DIY already had the answer. First, I got the name of the required part "spindle" from my local junk yard. Robert shows that you have to detach the shock absorber, the complete brake caliper, the control arm, and another ball joint from the spindle. The idea is to remove the disk, bearing, and a spidery metal part called a spindle as an assembly. My part had a better name - "spindle with knuckle".

[@RobertDIY]

+clariona thanks for sharing.

[@josephstevens4032]

Can a ball joint have side to side play but no up and down play? I have side to side play and can see the ball joint moving when I shake it. I have had to replace 2 inner tie rods in a month as well. It's on a 2000 Volvo C70. Btw, you are a great mechanic!

[@RobertDIY]

Yes

[@siemenstraffic]

If there is a 92-93 Volvo 850 in the yard, I always pull of the early style controller arms on those cars since the since the ball joint is replaceable on those controller arms years and they even the fit the 97-00 V 70 too! The later controller arm that Volvo stated to install on the late 850 93 models all the way up to the V70 year 2000 are junk.

[@RobertDIY]

Here is the US, the '94 control arms also have the replaceable ball joint. However, in '99 they went to a different style arm so the '93 - '94 arms do not fit. I have the '94 arms on my '95 as you may have seen in one of my other video's. siemenstraffic

[@masithembelemicheal4538]

Hi Robert is it possible to press fit a new ball joint from the old arm or have to replace the whole arm . from Mike in SA THANKS

[@RobertDIY]

I don't think so. You can get the '93 arms and replace ball joints.

[@dsrosser]

What are people’s experiences with the Meyle control arms. Looks like that and GV are the only reasonable options on the market (I have the four bolt option so no Meyle HD for me). Is GV really worth more than double the cost?

[@RobertDIY]

I have no idea. Lower control arms usually last. As long as your roads are good. The four bolt style are even better because they don't have to be preloaded. I still believe the best option is OEM Volvo.

[@jimchandler6605]

I was tempted to skip the loading step because my jack kept slipping under the arm, but then I realized why this is so important. I think it's because those rubber bushings are meant to move a little up and down, within a certain angle. But if they are tightened down all the way "low" then, they will always be under pressure pulling "up" instead of just resting naturally 99% of the time under normal driving conditions. That would certainly tear 'em up quick. So if anyone else skipped the loading step, if you read my comment I think it will help explain why this is important, and you might want to pop those wheels and settle these rubber bushings where they want to be...

[@RobertDIY]

Correct, you can destroy the bushings in about 5,000 miles.

[@TomKrall]

MY MAN. Doing this Saturday :D

[@RobertDIY]

Good deal. Hope everything goes smoothly.

[@TomKrall]

It never does. Had to pull off of axle to hammer ball joint out.

[@RobertDIY]

Grrrr, that is why I jam a screw driver in the joint slot and try to pry it open a smiget.

[@TomKrall]

Like prying on top of the nut downwards or from the side? i.imgur.com/vEFyEc3.jpg I couldn't pry it down, was digging into the axle part

[@RobertDIY]

No, the joint has a slit in it. I pry into the slit from the inner side of it, then wiggle the screw driver forward and back to force the slit open just a little. Then the join will come out easier. The bolt that you remove squeezes the joint close. Removing the bolt then forcing a screw driver into the crack will force it open just a little.

[@mds2465]

If I remember correctly on Volvos you have to jack up the wheel hub assembly to ride height before torquing down the bolts on the control arm.

[@RobertDIY]

Yes, that's what I did by "loading" them.

[@jopanel]

shit i didnt do that lol

[@RobertDIY]

You may want to go back and do the load on them so they last longer.

[@mds2465]

Robert DIY I heard those things can be a real PITA to get off on Volvos when they get seized in. When you install the new one, use antiseize.

[@mds2465]

Hey Robert, do you recommend that people use genuine Volvo parts for this job or is there a good reputable aftermarket alternative that you would also recommend? Also is there a poly bushing kit that you can install in place of the stock ones?

[@RobertDIY]

If they can afford it. There are a couple of good alternatives. Poly is to rough and break faster.

[@sfitz-rp4du]

Hi Robert - I was able to get one side done thanks to you good instructions. Because of extremely tight fitment on the A-frame, is there a tip or trick or tool to get those holes exactly lined up for tight fitting bolts? I was thing perhaps using like a cone shaped punch that you can whack to get spot on alignment? Thanks much if you have a suggestion.

[@RobertDIY]

I sometimes use a screw driver.

[@RobertDIY]

Usually just tapping it around with a hammer will do.

[@sfitz-rp4du]

Mission Accomplished Robert! Both sides done. Thank you for all your good videos and instruction. God Bless you!

[@ChristopherBurtraw]

Please do one on the 4 bolt design. It's MUCH more difficult to do.

[@RobertDIY]

Yes, I have to walk those off. I'm sure I did a video on one a couple of years ago.

[@RobertDIY]

BTW, I have had to rebuild a few cylinder heads after using the Victor Reinz kits. Valve stem seals leaking after 12 months and 6,000 miles. Some head gaskets are leaking, intake manifolds are leaking, cam seals only last a couple of years. I can go on, but why waste time. I won't be using any more of those parts.

[@ChristopherBurtraw]

I can get 3 of the 4 bolts off. I figured if I pop off the ball joint I could wiggle it around and work the bolt back. I might also try to lift the whole engine and trans up a couple inches, hopefully the mounts give enough play to do so.

[@RobertDIY]

You may have to jack the engine up a little. Remove the front engine mount bolts.

[@TheOneJPtv]

Thanks @RobertDIY

[@RobertDIY]

you are welcome.

[@fiction2172]

So Mr. Robert, I'm in a bit of a pickle here. Just got the control arms done along with struts. I am now having a loud grinding sound coming from my front passenger side. Almost sounds like my brake pads are riding on the rotor. Any advice on how to troubleshoot?

[@RobertDIY]

Yes, check to see how hot they are, with a temp gun.

[@dougvanscoy2842]

Hi Robert, Very much appreciate your videos. I have a 98 S70 4-dr. I have a big job started, but I broke the bolt that holds the lower control arm ball joint. Do you think I have to replace the entire knuckle? I'm replacing control arms, tie-rod ends, struts and cv-joint boots.

[@RobertDIY]

If you broke a bolt, why would the knuckle need to be replaced?

[@michaelfraher1106]

the hole that the bolt that runs through near the ball joint is that hole threaded or smooth?

[@RobertDIY]

Smooth.

[@laynehansen1538]

Thank you, Robert! I've been told my 2006 V70 2.5T needs a new control arm. How much should this repair cost done by a mechanic or the dealer? Thank you!

[@RobertDIY]

$325ish

[@laynehansen1538]

@@RobertDIY I appreciate it. Thank you, Robert!

[@Gordon302]

Robert, you said that the wheel could possibly fall off, due to a completely failed control arm. Are you forgetting about the large 36mm C.V. axle nut that's holding on the hub assembly? The wheel is bolted to this, with five lug bolts. So yes; while it is dangerous, the lower control arm prevents the suspension assembly from scewing out to the side. Speaking of which, why do we call it a "lower" control arm? There isn't an upper or secondary one; it's the only one. And, for those who are looking to avoid the "stealership", Volvo parts webstore (

[@RobertDIY]

+Gordon302 Hey man, the cv axle can not hold the wheel to the vehicle. If you take a cv axle and hold it in your hands, you can pull it apart with very little effort. I seen a car broken down in a parking lot, recently posted on one of my videos, and another guy from Pittsburgh (guy I shipped the spindle/knuckle to) both suffered from the "lower" (called that due to it's location, not because there are more than one of them) control arm failure. The wheel of their cars just pulled away from the vehicle, pulling the CV axles apart, bringing the vehicle to an abrupt halt. Thank God these 2 people were not on the freeway when their failures occurred, I'm sure they would have taken out a few cars with theirs. T. Decent quality control arms can be purchased for less than $70 with a lifetime warranty.

[@RobertDIY]

+Gordon302 Thinking back a little, I use to have a problem with them being called lower control arms as well.

[@somebloke5565]

This bloke is either an idiot or a troll, 'spose you're obliged to be more polite. I'm not... 'course the 'kin wheel would fall off. What else but that joint puts it and keeps it there?

[@RobertDIY]

There are several things connected. However, if the ball joint falls apart or the knuckle rust through the wheel can fall away from the car pulling the wheel away from the car. Another tragic failure would be the outer tie rod end.

[@tresmum]

Robert DIY where can I get them for that price today? BTW, I love your videos

[@XMORTXGRIMX]

Hi Robert, very helpful videos. I've been looking to replace my lower control arm as well. Issue is they sell both a 2 bolt and 4 bolt assembly. how can i distinguish which is right for my 1999 volvo v70 front wheel drive? Thank you!

[@RobertDIY]

+Mike Mulrooney You need to look and see. lol

[@AwakeDude911]

I've done this 3 times on my Volvos ..if I don't have air tools to do the job it wouldn't get done... that's no joke when they have been on the car for 15+ yrs..

[@RobertDIY]

Much harder on cars with rust.

[@mattbartholomew5707]

I always keep an angle grinder near by just in case when working on suspension.

[@RobertDIY]

That would stink.

[@timothyduggan2263]

Any advice on removing particularly stubborn ball joints? Mine is pretty corroded. The ball joint bolt was tough, I eventually got it out by applying lots of WD40 then turning the head with a socket on a long breaker bar whilst simultaneously hitting the nut end with a big hammer. However the ball joint itself is stuck fast. I've tried a crowbar, WD40, big hammer but it won't budge. I don't have a splitter tool unfortunately.

[@RobertDIY]

I just posted a new video about beating the joint with a sledge hammer, 2 or 3 lb hammer will do. Make the joint a few times and it will pop out.

[@timothyduggan2263]

@@RobertDIY Thanks. I'll check that out and give it a try.

[@g00dn3t]

Hi Robert, I tried changing a control arm on a 98 s70 t5 (I’m pretty sure it’s the original control arm when car was manufactured) and the bolt was stuck solid inside the bushing (I tried to turn the bolt with a long cheater bar, and I could tell the entire rubber bushing was turning with the bolt based on the creaking noise it made as I turned it). I’m up in Toronto so the rust/salt can be pretty hardcore up here. I used PBblaster on it and tried turning it as well with no luck. Any tips on getting that bolt out?

[@RobertDIY]

heat

[@OutdoorBoys100]

Hey robert, on my 2000 c70, since ive had the car when i make hard turns it creaks from the front end of the vehicle sounds . didmt have symptoms from this video tho, im just not familiar with what part on these cars will make a loud creaking metal noise from the front, thanks.

[@RobertDIY]

Strut bearings.

[@clariona]

HELP SOS I was in the middle of replacing my new control arm and ran into big trouble when tightening the ball joint bolt and nut. I may have spread apart the joint cavity too much and fatiqued it, because when I tightened that, half of the joint cracked and broke off, a small piece of metal. Is that weldable? More important question is how do I replace that heavy metal part attached to the wheel which contains the joint cavity and holds the brake caliper? Do you have a video video for that? And what is that part called so I can find a replacement?

[@RobertDIY]

+clariona it's called the nuckle.

[@noteconmicallysensible]

Hi Robert diy my control pinch bolt is seized need some help with this it's rounded off

[@RobertDIY]

bring it by.

[@noteconmicallysensible]

@@RobertDIY i live in the uk i just need some advice thats all , please robert im stuck ive got myself into a complete mess

[@jasonsmith6776]

Would this procedure be similar to the 1st Gen 04' Volvo s40?

[@RobertDIY]

I have no idea

[@anthonytsi]

Can the ball joint on the 1996 850 be replaced alone or do you have to replace the entire control arm?

[@RobertDIY]

Bring it by so I can take a look for you.

[@anthonytsi]

@@RobertDIY Thanks. I did find the answer. Indeed the entire control arm needs to be replaced. Only $60 from FCP EURO.

[@samuelkilada3975]

Could this be the problem I'm having as a result of replacing my front struts? I had significant rattle on the first day, which then went away for a day or two, but then returned again. Only seems to rattle when the wheels are pointed straight ahead, stops when turning. I was wondering if this might be the control arm?

[@RobertDIY]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ooK0n2Snm8hpsJY

[@samuelkilada3975]

Sway bar end link! When you described that as a baseball in a metal container that sounded like it to me, I looked up videos and it matched. Thank you yet again! I'll probably just replace it on both sides if I'm doing it at all.

[@RobertDIY]

Good deal.

[@BlastReadingSeries]

Hey Robert, are these pieces rebuildable?

[@RobertDIY]

+BlastReadingSeries Yes they are. You can purchase the bushings and have them pressed in.

[@BlastReadingSeries]

+Robert DIY Thanks!

[@user-ys8bb2ts7s]

Thanks Robert 👍

[@RobertDIY]

You are welcome

[@scabbsskinnymann]

would it be easy and similar to change mine on my Audi A4, '03?

[@RobertDIY]

Fitzroy Lawson Yes it should be.

[@kalloggs40]

what happens if you don't replace worn control arms, I mean its just rubber that worn, so only noise issue?

[@RobertDIY]

Antonios LesvosLover Well, have you ever heard of "driving a car until the wheels fall off"? That is what will happen. The ball joint at the bottom of the strut tower is the only thing holding the wheel close to the car at the bottom. When the ball joint finally wears totally out, and it comes apart from the control arm, the wheel will roll away from the car. The strut will hold it at the top a little and the tie rod will try to keep it connected to the steering rack, but depending on the speed traveling when it comes apart, it will do at least $1,000 worth of damage. Hopefully no one will be killed.

[@kalloggs40]

looks like I have to start saving, they cost $300 and $1200 labor on the Alfa 147, sometimes its better to replace the whole car.

[@RobertDIY]

Ouch!

[@debbied7803]

Robert DIY oh Robert, thats not funny ( : good luck to the dude huh. it was tech that did my control arm could it be off in any way?

[@jmanajr]

Yeah you definitely have to pre load the bushings or else they will wear out really quick.

[@RobertDIY]

Thanks for watching.

[@debbied7803]

hey Robert I had my car aligned, Toto mistake the caster is way off. My tie rods are bad. and my struts ( they knew this) but did it anyway. how big of trouble am I .you know they had to of adjusted my TR so I need to put a new tie rod on even w/ the camber being off, can I? it's tearing up my front end probably going to damage the bearings. plea plea help me Robert. Thanks

[@RobertDIY]

How can I help you with that?

[@debbied7803]

Robert DIY TY ok so I'm getting outer tire rod today. with the caster/ camber off , do you think putting a new tr on it will take the blup away IF that's what it is? This caster/ camber got me all messed up! man o man...

[@debbied7803]

could the control arm be on wrong

[@debbied7803]

Robert DIY oh yeah here's my ? sense they moved my tie rod end do I still go by the number of turns taking it off , I do right? TY

[@RobertDIY]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/naWcqGCQiN2mb6s

[@jopanel]

i just did this shit last week.

[@KPahn]

What is it that expensive in the US? I bought mine 40 a piece.

[@RobertDIY]

Depends on the brand. As low as $45, as high as $125.

[@KPahn]

@@RobertDIY How do you find the torque specs for these bolts? Gonna be replacing both control arm tomorrow? Is it important to compress the spring with the weight of the car before tightening down these bolts?

[@gramoukdoom]

Does someone have the torque specs please?

[@RobertDIY]

did you check the comments?

[@gramoukdoom]

@@RobertDIY Yes all of them... sorry can't find anything.

[@RobertDIY]

I just checked my comments section and all of the torque specs are there. 🤦🏾‍♂️

[@evanpatterson8487]

I got them off Amozon prime for 64.49 for both. with 2 day shipping.

[@RobertDIY]

Did they fit good?

[@debbied7803]

Robert DIY did what fit good?

[@debbied7803]

Robert DIY sorry 1 yr. Ago I'm terrible on the social media haven't quite got the know how. yet!

[@Gordon302]

Robert, Almost everyone knows that, the term, "lifetime warranty", is basically a cheap, Chinese joke. Yeah; you'll save money, but you'll also be changing that same part, 2-3 years down the road. What I referenced was, genuine Volvo parts. Sure; China makes parts for Volvo. But, I only know of the brake rotors (Not the brake pads.), coming from there.

[@RobertDIY]

+Gordon302 LOL, these are German made parts I was referring to. Mayle and Febi HD.

[@RobertDIY]

+Gordon302 Sad to say, most of these car, although capable, don't see to many miles per year. Most people are simply afraid of old cars and don't drive them to far. If I had to guess, they probably see an average of 5,000 miles per year. They are always looking for a reason to park or junk them even though they can roll down the road like I take mine. So, any control arms that they buy and install properly will likely last 5+ years.

[@edogg5690]

1oqkkaklakkdkaksjja&sjsjj aww hegd hmm njan - kuaahahauaquyayqq until snaha;ahahahahahhahaha

[@mandierose8775]

My 850 T wagon has 300k on it, and I put at least 40k on it a year. I had just replaced the right control arm on my 850 sedan when the block cracked, so I'll be removing that CA to put on my wagon and be one ahead. Suspension was not my favorite subject in college, but this seems like a pretty easy fix, and I have all the tools I need. Thanks for your videos, they're very helpful when I need to get an overview of what I'm doing and what tools to have on hand before I start. :)

[@somebloke5565]

Robert Love the vids. Looking to get in early with the Missus’s Xmas present this year. What with you rubbing around with the upper echelons, being a global celebrity and all, I thought of you. I’m sure your daughter will confirm - no self-respecting celebrity star goes without their own fragrance. Beyonce & Opra have one, even ‘kin Barbra Streisand. What’s yours called? What does it smell of? When will it be in stores? Waiting patiently…

[@RobertDIY]

OMG! My wife said ODB which smells of WD-40. lol

[@somebloke5565]

I'll wait to see in stores thsi Xmas. Parfume, eau d'ATF? Come to think of it, I don't reckon it matters. Cat p*ss & Hydraulic fluid should do it. Keep the vids up.

[@RobertDIY]

lol

[@michaelstrickland2219]

@robertdiy pls help

[@RobertDIY]

With what?