how to replace the steering center link and tie rods, Mercedes w202

how to remove and replace the center steering link and tie rods on a w202 chassis Mercedes Benz follow me on twitter / fupabox

[@lawrencepellegrini2687]

As usual, your comical references help insure a somewhat boring job to get done without frowning, Looking for torque values on center drag link which you provided at end of video, also I left the plastic "cover protector things" on so I'll be going back to remove those, thank you fupa !

[@robinpelletstovesuk9194]

BIG THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO. I was swearing and shouting today at my w202 trying to get those inner joint bolts off from the bottom on the car...what a 'kin bitch of a job. I did x1...left the other soaking with WD40 overnight...and THEN SAW YOU BOT THE NUTS FROM THE TOP OF THE ENGINE WITH LOTS OF EXTENSIONS!! SO I WILL TRY THIS TOMORROW..... THANK YOU! anyway I love my w202...still the most reliable car I ever owned and still is despite its age.

[@obligedvictim]

Did this job today, (Drag link, Dampener and Idler bushing replacement) although not so difficult, worst and most time-consuming part was separating the inner ball joints. Finally found a good angle to wedge a pickle fork on the two center ones and finally broke free. Mine was completely worn in that center link you showed. Thanks a million for the video, watched it before I did the job.

[@fupabox]

the centers are a bugger to get off :(

[@loganb595]

Just completed the job myself, a 15/32 size pickle fork is what you need. anything else would be too big.

[@siuhenry5368]

I am in HK, my W202 inner tie rod rocked and failed to go straight. I pay HK$900 (USD11x) for a new part. Thanks for your precious video, I understand how to repair.

[@wvflash]

This is the best find ever! Thank You so much ! I need to do my Crossfire which uses the same set up looks like to me. I'm going to follow your instructions and do mine soon. Again thank you for making this video.

[@fupabox]

very welcome...glad it helped

[@SteadyShadow]

Thank you. This help me %100. Keep on doing this type of videos

[@oscys45]

Really helpful and amazing camera control under the vehicle. Sapporo. Excellent suds.

[@ferryvillois13090]

Thank u very much for all your video about w202!!!

[@amgjens]

I've identified my knocking sound, it's coming from the left inner tie rod joint, so i'm going to have to do this job. Seems like a good idea to change the steering damper too, it's pretty cheap.

[@tempest411]

It's amazing that every time I do search for a video to help me with my wife's '98 C230 I get videos by you every time....Except for a starter swap, but hay, I guess yours never had an issue:/ I will be changing out EVERYTHING in the suspension and steering on my wife's car as when I tried to get it aligned a few months ago the shop couldn't get it to spec because of wear. After I got down there and looked around for the first time I was shocked at how many tie rod and ball joint boots are split and show bone-dry joint underneath! The shop I've had it at never even mentioned that obvious flaw...My old '88 Jeep still has most all of it's original steering linkage at 300K miles and it's still good. Why do these cars need so much work after only 100K? The car has spent all it's life in an area with very mild climate (S.F.Bay Area). This shouldn't be happening!

[@fupabox]

The miles aren't the only factor.. the years and the type of rubber used makes a difference as well . European countries forced manufacturers to redesign rubbers and plastics so they would be more 'Earth friendly" and naturally degrade ,unlike some plastics that don't break down naturally .. Also non grease-able suspension linkages don't allow you to keep ball joints and tie rods lubed. The Jeep stuff was prob, all grease-able

[@Qapital_J]

Oh I am so relieved I found the name of this part. I got into an accident and the drivers side's wheel hit the sidewalk and it popped my tire and the tie rod bent and snapped off the wheel. Still not sure if I have to replace the damage the wheel took from the tie rod being forced off.

[@REParrent]

Great video! Kudos! Great prep for this w/e's project.

[@REParrent]

Ross Parrent @9:15 Fupa talks about whacking a very stubborn joint. I did this project with a friend on a 2001 SLK 320. We had an extremely stubborn joint on the idler arm side. I had soaked the joints the night before as advised. We whacked the joint, drove a pickle fork in there so hard it spread the forks. We tried to find a place where a jaw puller (goo.gl/nZtVCL) could grab the idler, but the surfaces were too smooth and round. Finally, we wedged the pickle fork into the usual place between the joint and above the idler, then used the fork as a ledge for the jaw puller hooks to grab hold. This gave us the leverage to turn the jaw puller into the joint stud from the bottom and it eventually popped off. We also used jack stands to get the wheels off the car, which made a huge difference to our freedom of movement getting this thing out of the car. started about 7:30 am (not hot), and finished about 11:30 , less one half hour for a trip to the parts house for the pickle fork ($10).

[@fupabox]

Ross Parrent Ouch .. yeah I've had to cut one off before...turns a 15 minute job into a nightmare :(

[@bedlampark]

thank fupabox. This is a huge help, but I have a question. You say you used a fork to remove the inner tie rods. I can't get a good position to whack on it. I'm trying pullers but not enough room to get a ratchet or wrench in the engine bay. Tried the extensions down through the bay but the puller keeps slipping off. Any details on how you did the left side inner rod? thanks!

[@cheyennedogsoldiers]

I've just done mine and had the same problem, so I eventually bought a cup/bolt type Ball Joint Separator and it came off, but it certainly held on till the very last moment.

[@aliabdallah102]

Have to do that on my 2000 c280. I took a roundabout too fast and hit the curb with my tire and bent the inner rod.

[@TonyNanni]

I mean rocking movement on the tire in the prior comment. That rocking is supposed to reveal any upper or lower ball joint looseness but it seems to me that there is always going to be a slight movement (and sound) from the wheel bearing, even when everything is perfect. Just to notewhen you set the bearing preload you don't rock you just pull in and out in an axial direction as you showed in one of your videos.

[@fupabox]

yes correct. When I made that old w202 video I was still doing it the way I was taught 30 years ago..which was on old American cars with no real heed to exact tolerances..

[@IamPaste]

Btw, I did like this video, however the C230 I bought came with poly bushings. My jetta had poly bushings that I had pressed in by a shop and then suddenly with the increased NVH I spent hundreds of dollars getting rid of it. I am worried that I was a bit obsessive because now in this car I feel some vibration at highway speed and know that a tire balancing will not solve the problem. Frankly, I just think I am going to live with it for the time being.

[@joelmiller7]

Have you needed to adjust the lash in the steering geer?

[@siuhenry5368]

60k km is a long way for a small place like HK. Since the past 2-3 years, items broken down and replaced includes gearbox oil pan seal, adapter socket plug seal, fuel pump, fuel filter clogged, small fuel hose to filter, a/c outer condenser, a/c hose, cabinet roof frabic, water pump to thermostat short hose, main beam bulb, vacuum hose connector for beam angle controller, front shock absorber... keeping me busy. Less and less people in HKG like to take care of their cars in detail.

[@greggarnett173]

i was sittinf under the car baffled cause i couldn’t think of a way to get off em bolts u a legend shitty design especially when i saw other models had it go in a different way

[@TheTaz069]

Was your 202 making funny noises in the front end? Mine has a pop on the passenger side. Replaced front shocks and brake rotors and pads. I even went as far as changing the wheel bearing. And the pop still persists. Is their a test onther than having someone rotate the steering wheel and hold onto the said parts? Thanks

[@oseiasamoa-bonsu6971]

Hello, I use a 2005 C230 Kompressor. I used to hear bad clunks when i go over rough bumps and all. I after about 2,000.00 worth of works on the front end it has reduced but is still there. I have changed the shocks, struts, stabilizer rods and end, a slightly used rack from the breakers yard. I have realized that the front sways and wanders at speed. What could it be? My last best is that it could be the steering rack bushing since the ones on there came with the used steering rack. Kindly advice, please

[@aznbear420]

You made this look way too easy took me 2 days to get the center link off of the car. Those ball joints are no joke.

[@fupabox]

ouch.. yup sometimes you lucky , sometimes you want a can of gas and a match :)

[@aznbear420]

I said several time that I would love to burn the car to the ground hahahaha but I didnt. The drive home from the shop was awesome and worth not breaking out the pyrotechnics. Car handles 10x better than when I bought it. I also took for granted that it was the original parts from now 15 years ago with close to 140k miles (got to love mercedes).Thank you as well you have saved me tons!!

[@1995RangeRover]

Thanks bro!

[@adriannyasia]

Is this the same for the 99 clk320?

[@ROBrien05]

My bad on the delay, just saw this message in my box. THe horn had stopped working but I managed to get it working be messing with the relay. Right now the horn works but only the low side. I was just wondering where the horns are? I've looked everywhere besides under the car and browsed the web with no info. I'd want to replace but horns but can't find the placement. Assuming their underneath as their not in the engine compartment.

[@siuhenry5368]

The upper A arm (LHS) has a little rattle when push by foot. Will find parts and wrench for repair soon. The window regulator (nylon bearing) is broken apart, hard to repair w/o a complete new lifter. Now just seize up with nylon fastener.

[@siuhenry5368]

Hi fupabox, I pay HK$180 for a new pc of steering stabilizer as well, now no more free play and firm steering feel all round. Perhaps the drag link was from China, RMB : weak HKD makes the part more expensive in HK than US. Have a nice day! ^o ^ ( I sprayed the Mass Air Flow Sensor, more powerful pick-up after cleaning, first cleaning since car landed in Dec 1999, now only 60k km done)

[@emilnordberg1411]

I've been watching a lot of your w202 videos and it have all helped me through my mechanical work with my mercedes. Also a 230 compressor and I love it. Hey, if you ever change car, let me now which one and I'll change too :)

[@Stupeflyer]

just recieved my entire center drag/tie rod and one side seems to be looser than the other side. is that bad?

[@savvasgreece8700]

hi, i have followed many of your works on W202, I have a 99' W208 CLK200k, and when i make full turn, unparking e.t.c., i feel front wheels scrubing hard the tires on the pavement, like the car has no alignment. But when NOT full turn (L or R) , the car goes straight , without even touching. I got bellow, lifted car, seen the bar, and noticed, when full turn, the Z levers, have a tendancy to move up-down. So the last 1.5cm of full turn steering, can play myself wheel with hands very easily. On up-down wheel bearing are optimal. suggestion? w202 is W208 brother.

[@fupabox]

The steering will be a bit loose when the car is not running, but not too much. check the lower big control arm , rear bushing .. it can wear out and make a problem when turning

[@ROBrien05]

i need to replace my horn but can't seem to find it or any info, thoughts?

[@itsmkv]

would you recommend changing the idler arm bushing while doing this job?

[@miztatone918]

Yes

[@scottchandler4400]

Dam Nice ,,,Thanks

[@TonyNanni]

fupabox, why did you do this on ramps? What was your thinking? Was it to try to preserve alignment so you figure you don't want the tires to move and you keep the steering wheel perfectly in the same position. Seems like it was a hell of a lot harder on the ramps. Since you are just need the toe setting good enough to drive to the shop/dealer, why not just do the measuring (like you did anyway) and forget trying to maintain the perfect relationship between tires and steering wheel? Also, as much as you do this kind of thing why are you beating on the steering parts? Granted, it's probably not going to do any harm but why not just use a puller? How much tighter was that new inner tie rod joint? Did this job firm up the steering? What was your mileage when you decided to do this job? Thanks for your great videos.

[@fupabox]

LOL.. I don't really remember why I did it on ramps... I think because it was so hot out I was worried about axle stands sinking into the driveway. The reason also for maintaining wheel relationship ( as you say not too necessary ) but the alignment shop is 20 miles from me .. I'm far from any town , so 20 miles with a bad alignment can ruin tires quick. around 160k miles when this was done. Depending on how rough your roads are this may be needed sooner or much later.. The car had spent it's previous life in downtown Toronto.. streetcar tracks and bad pavement everywhere. steering was sharper and firmer afterwards

[@rdukeesqdds]

@@fupabox thats my current project and i am cursing you because i figure their is a good reason for this. My biggest reason for not stopping and getting this on stands is i hate working under cars. I have this morbid fear of someone finding me under there crushed by a car. So at least the ramps eliminate that feeling. But dude other than that that made the outer tierods so much harder than they needed to be. It took me 2 hours on one and i had to bang into my lower control arm. But you are my go to for w202 repair so thanks as always. Still haven't figured out why no sound from stereo btw 😁

[@IamPaste]

so do you need an alignment for ballpoints on this car too? its different because there is upper and lower...

[@fupabox]

no alignment for ball joint replacement ..The only adjustments are in the lower control arm and tie rods so ball joints don't change settings

[@amgjens]

I replaced this part yesterday and had it aligned. Now my steering wheel is slightly to the left, when driving straight. I had to take the pitman arms off to get them to separate from the old steering link ( i used a hammer). Is it possible to put the Pitman arm back on like 1 tooth off center, or can it fit only one way? I couldn't get it back on any other way initially, so I thought it could only fit that way, to prevent a wrong installment.

[@fupabox]

your alignment shop screwed up.. they are supposed to center the wheel and then align from there . I would go back and tell them the wheel isn't centered.. If you had ESP stab. control , the warning light would go off due to the non centered wheel

[@amgjens]

Thanks for the answer, I appreciate it. Good to know I won't have to take it all back off as it was quite the hassle. So am i right in assuming the pitman arm only fits one way? My friend told me I most likely screwed up.. My car doesn't have ESP.

[@gearhead3500]

my driver outer tie rod is worm out but the passenger side is good do i have to replace the whole drag link??

[@fupabox]

nope .. you can do just the outer tie rod

[@laeeqramson5476]

Hi.about suspension bushes,control arm bushes and all other bushes in w202 1996,is it a ok to use afer market or genuine mercedes benz parts.as genuine parts are costly.an if using after market parts will it mess the alingnment an that smooth drive..

[@fupabox]

depends on what you replace whether the alignment is affected. Center link ,tie rods, def. need alignment no matter whose parts you use . With an older daily driver good middle of the line parts are fine . If it is a car you plan to keep forever ,then I would use OEM parts from a discount supplier like rockauto

[@gasbaroni]

Do you have to use ramps for the suspension or can you just use one jack stand on each side?

[@gasbaroni]

One jack stand on each side without lifting the suspension that is.

[@fupabox]

yes you can use jack stands

[@cerealkilla27]

I just replaced the center link tie rods idler pulley, steering damper, shocks, upper control arms, lower bushings, and I still get a weird clunk coming from the steering wheel when the car is stopped and suddenly move it to the side. please help. could it be the knuckle? I love your videos by the way! I have a slk320

[@fupabox]

+Cesar Hernandez (Checharin) could be the steering box play, or wheel bearings... also check the 3 16mm bolts that hold the steering box to the subframe.. they are visible on the drivers side front inner wheel well

[@cerealkilla27]

+fupabox after days of frustration, I found play on both front wheels when wiggled from top to bottom. could that be my wheel bearings? there's no play when moved side to side.

[@fupabox]

Cesar Hernandez I didn't see in your first post if you had replaced the lower ball joints..if they have been replaced the movement is in the wheel bearings.. If the ball joints have not been replaced , it could be the ball joints or the wheel bearings... Sorry for missing the ball joint on my last post.... I thought I had read that you had replaced them as well

[@EndritVj]

Did you found out what is causing the sound?

[@derekd.5322]

I've got every thing off except I cannot separate the inner tie rod assembly from the steering arms no matter how hard I try. Hammering, soaked multiple times with pb blaster, pickle fork etc. Looks like they've never been replaced, they just will not come loose! Any advice?

[@fupabox]

tie rod end separator will hopefully do it.... I've hammered on a few for an hour with a pickle fork... propane torch on the old tie rod shaft as well

[@derekd.5322]

Thanks! went and picked up a ball joint separator and it finally popped loose with a loud bang, no way it would've come off any other way.

[@fupabox]

Derek Dunn scares the piss out of you hearing that loud BANG when you are under the car.. :)

[@Reptileblazzin]

On rockauto.com under steering is the center link nd the in and putter tie rod pretty much the same part because they look identical thankless let me know great vid btw

[@Dozinox]

I changed all of the front joints, control arms, tie rods, etc. But my steering wheel is still pretty messed up, and won't center. If I stand still and turn the wheel, I can feel and hear it clunking. Could this be the center link?

[@fupabox]

it's either the center link and or the idler bushing

[@Dozinox]

Hm, I am not familiar with this. Oh well, guess I have to take it to a shop and spend some money

[@Ensiferum0405]

Thanks.

[@NimaSomeh]

mind needs to be change I think , its eating my front tires inner side :( . very help full thnx.

[@Qapital_J]

Fupa what's the part called that swivels the brake disc. I crashed and the tie rod popped off the ball and the screw won't come off

[@fupabox]

+minzi2047 the steering knuckle..

[@Qapital_J]

+fupabox thanks ✌

[@joemartin2242]

Part # fort the center linkage assembly if it’s still available. Thanks.

[@fupabox]

heres the rockauto listing for center links ...a few to choose from www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercedes-benz,1998,c230,2.3l+l4,1316343,steering,center+link,7276

[@TonyNanni]

when you grab a Mercedes w202 w208 w210 wheel top and bottom (12 o'clock and 6 o'clock) and pull in and out do you always hear and feel a slight wheel bearing movement? I mean ever so slight. I set mine with the mag dial indicator for axial play of 4-8 ten thousandths (the spec on these cars) and I still feel slight wheel bearing movement. I suspect this is normal. What is your experience?

[@fupabox]

Actually you are 1 decimal place off.. .01mm is ,00039 inch 10thousands, which is why you are getting play in the bearing

[@TonyNanni]

fupabox, 3.9 or 4 ten thousandths IS .00039 inchs. 0.00039 is 39 hundred thousandths or 3.9 ten thousandths, which is the spec. Most dial indicators are in thousandths. Which means the spec is around 1/2 of one hash mark. My indicator is marked in 5 ten thousandth increments, so two hash marks equals 1 thousandth of an inch. On this type of indicator you go for 1 hash mark, which is a lot easier to do than trying to get 1/2 of a hash mark on the more typical thousandth dial indicator.

[@fupabox]

It is realy tough to get to that tight a tolerance, I need a metric dial gauge. BTW I read your comment as "4- 8 thousands" I didn't see the ten in front.. LOL.. I guess reading late at night and getting it correct is tough for me .. sorry about the mistake Once the correct bearing adjustment is made , I tend to feel no play in the bearing , and am always worried it's too tight. I like the old Toyota truck method...attach a fishing scale to a wheel stud and pull.... tighten to a certain spec. to seat the bearing then pull on the scale till you are pulling around 7lbs (can't recall the exact lbs , but you get the idea) then slowly loosen the bearing until the hub moves and that's your bearings set. I keep thinking of trying this method and seeing if it can be adopted to a RWD Benz.. you would assume the same preload would co-relate to the same pulling force , all things being equal. what do you think ? it would be a much simpler way to do it.

[@TonyNanni]

I'm not very familiar with Toyota but the Benz method isn't that bad. You should seat the wheel bearing first by tightening with pliers wrench tight until you can't turn the hub and then back off. You need to seat the bearing. A cool way to do the Benz is to put the mag base on the caliper and the indicator on the hub and pull in and out. This is an alternative method to putting the base on the hub and the indicator on the nut. Measures the exact same thing, axial free play. With the caliper method you can check without having to pull the dust cap which for me at least requires a slide hammer. You do need to pry between the rotor and the caliper to back off the pads a hair before taking the measurement. I want you to rock a tire sometime at 12 and 6 oclock and tell me if you can feel and hear just a hint of bearing play. I'll bet you can with the correct preload. That is why I believe WIS states to rock the tire and feel the control arm ball joints to check the upper joint not just go by the slight play that the wheel bearing imparts.

[@TonyNanni]

You may be going too tight. What's amazing is that you can pay 5-8 hundred at the Benz dealer to pack your bearings and they won't even use the correct WIS method with the dial indication. Just the crap shoot of doing it by "feel." "Feeling" 4 ten thousandths of an inch is a pretty good trick.

[@MrShenoch]

What is the torque spec of the grease boot nut!!!??? Anybody!

[@TheM275]

How much labour should a mechanic quote for? Is an hour maximum? Trying to save as much as possible, this is a bit out of my league for a DIY! thanks

[@fcukmegently]

Why didn't you take the wheels off and axle stand the car? You could use a socket ratchet to undo & do up; plus easier access.

[@fupabox]

wanted to see if I could do it on ramps with wheels on . just being a bit lazy

[@fcukmegently]

@@fupabox ...I guess there are many ways of doing a job & that's ok. Have to do same job on my old 1999 CLK (C208) soon. Could do with some of your heat; it's 5C & wet here in south west England. Thanks for your time and input.

[@Kamadev888]

+fupabox The W202s don't have a rack and pinion?

[@fupabox]

+Kamadev888 nope.. not till the w203

[@Kamadev888]

Good!

[@kodyoliver2490]

What made you decide to replace it all

[@kodyoliver2490]

Was it due to shake in steering

[@fupabox]

yes ..there was a bit of play in the steering

[@IamPaste]

gloves and cordless impact wrench

[@fernandogonzalezruiz5867]

Sniff in the pann

[@TheGamch]

TORQUE SPECS. !!!!

[@fupabox]

+TheGamch tie rod ends are 35-39 ft lbs center link is 35-39 ft bs steering shock is 33-38 ft lbs

[@TheGamch]

Mitchell has tie rods to steering knuckle listed as 50NM + 60 degrees, for the W203. Thanks

[@fupabox]

TheGamch Ah, for w203...that's different..thought you wanted w202 specs.. 36lbs 50nm + 60 degrees by WIS as well

[@mateushah]

OI

[@m90ms01]

Great video fupabox!! I wanna ask you a favour if it's possible to leave me your email address I wanna ask you something! Thank you

[@fupabox]

m90ms01 ill pm you