How to Replace the Wheel Bearing on a BMW 540i E39 5 Series

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Video tutorial on how to replace the front wheel bearing on a BMW E39. A faulty wheel bearing normally makes a grinding or howling noise when driving down the road. However before it came to that point I managed to catch the problem just by rotating the bearing by hand and will show you once it’s been removed. Beyond being heard, this can also be felt by hand too. It will have somewhat of a grinding feel, not smooth or stiff turning compared to what a new bearing should feel like. This particular vehicle I am working with here today is a 1997 BMW 540i.
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-metric socket set
-metric allen keys
-johnson bar
-ratchet
-hammer
-round punch
-brake cleaner
-interlocking pliers
-jack
-axle stands
-new wheel bearing
-threadlocker
-wire brush
-sandpaper
-torque wrench
Procedure:
-remove the wheel that is affected, safety elevate the vehicle and place the vehicle is on blocks or an axle stand
-first on the list is removing the brake assembly
-remove the 2 plastic caps covering the allen head bolts for the slide pins using a standard screwdriver, then use a 7mm allen key
-remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir to relieve any pressure when compressing the piston
-using interlocking pliers, push the piston back
-use a standard screwdriver to pop off the anti rattle clip
-lift off the caliper and tie it off using a scrap or bungie cord so it does put added strain on the brake line
-to remove the brake caliper carrier, there will be two 16mm bolts
-there will be a 6mm allen head retaining fastener for the rotor, then remove the rotor
-considering I have Sachs front struts, they are slightly longer than compared to the BMW OEM unit, so the pinch connection on the spindle assemble will need to be loosen and the spindle will need to be dropped down slightly
-remove the 18mm nut first, the bolt it’s connected to is a 16mm, this bolt will need to be removed to get the connection to separate a little
-remove the 16mm bolt above the pinch clamp to disconnect the sway bar end link
-you may need to jack up the spindle assembly to remove tension on the sway bar, the sway bar needs to be disconnected in order to drop the spindle down further
-now you can push down the spindle assembly
-unfortunately the wheel bearing flange bolts use high strength threadlocker, heat is normally used to make it pliable but considering it’s close to the strut, I have used brake cleaner instead
-there will be 4 18mm bolts holding on the wheel bearing, I found a mix between shallow and deep sockets with extensions were needed
-clean up the mounting surface with some light grit sandpaper to remove any dirt which may cause mounting issues
-it’s important to compare the old and new spindle to make sure it’s the correct part
-install the new hub, use one bolt to hold it into place
-I have already cleaned up these bolts, used a wire brush to remove any dirt and the old red high strength thread locker
-for this I am using a medium grade thread locker so it can be easier disassembled for the next maintenance interval
-tighten up these bolts in a criss cross pattern so the flange pulls down evenly
-torque specs for the 18mm bolts is 75 ft lbs
-then when you’re ready to push the strut into place, there will be an alignment sticker for the left or right side, align then, use a jack to push it into place and the pinch clamp bolt is tightened to 50 ft lbs
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

[@ianmcwilliam1753]

I have the exact same year and model (97 540i sport 6speed). Your videos on the basic maintenance are really useful. I always watch the entire episode beforehand which gives me an idea of what I might be up against before starting the project. . As an owner of 3 old manual transmission bmers- 1991 850i/6 , 2000 M5 and the 97 540i sport - these cars were well built and when properly maintained are a real joy to drive especially with the stick shift. My old 540 still puts a smile on my face when accelerating around high speed sweeping turns or highway on ramps .. I believe The e39 platform will be remembered as one of the best sport sedans from that era ( or any actuality). Perfect balance between sport and comfort. It goes without saying that my M5 is much faster and it’s hard to keep from constantly mashing the gas pedal - but the 540 is still my favorite for road trips and daily driving . The comfort seats and driving position are just about perfect Plus the value isn’t even close to the 850i/6 and the M5. So I don’t mind racking up the miles. 170,000 and counting. (I also just bought a rust free complete and running 1998 540i base model auto with rebuilt title for 600$ a parts car for the other two ) . Anyway , love you’re videos and keep them coming

[@4DIYers]

Thank you so much and awesome to hear! I definitely miss my E39, such a fun all around car. Now I have an E90 335d and love it! Handling is amazing, comfortable, seems to be well built, loads of power, and great fuel economy. I will say it's not as spacious and tight to work on.

[@thestoltzefamily8513]

I like that you assume your audience knows how to work on cars, so explaining how a jack stand and a ratchet wrench is not needed. Thanks!

[@4DIYers]

No problem and thank you!

[@watuzi]

Great video man. My mom has a stock '00 E39 and I think she needs new wheel bearings also. Thanks so much.

[@tolivaux]

Thanks a lot, one more time. I must do this on my '99 touring, I'm more motivated after looking your video :)

[@4DIYers]

Awesome to hear, glad to help out :)

[@11guyinthechair]

Thank you! Simple straight to the point tutorial!

[@4DIYers]

Glad to help out and thank you for the feedback!

[@DAILYDRIVENE39]

Subscribed. Thanks man about to do this on my e39 530i

[@4DIYers]

Thank you for the support!

[@jdmcarboy64]

Same process as the rear? Other than having to push the axle out a tad bit.

[@kopciuszekGJ]

Did you used Old bolts? Why? With New hub good quality, New bolts are always included. What kind of hub you have instaled?

[@fredymeraesports]

What wheel bearing brand did you get? Thanks

[@asd9508]

Thanks dude appreciate it! :) liked and subscribed!

[@4DIYers]

Awesome to hear and thank you for the support!

[@crazy4gta1]

Weird question but it is a problem if I removed the caliper and the bracket as one? When I replaced my struts I just went straight to the caliper mount bolts.

[@GrzegorzDurda]

Thanks for a great video :)

[@4DIYers]

Thank you!

[@mrdragancelan]

Caliper carrier bolts were 18mm hex on my 2002 530i. Did the older models have 16 mm hex bolts instead?

[@4DIYers]

They may have changed between models and years. I know the 540i has cast iron calipers, whereas the 6 cyl models have cast aluminum.

[@mrdragancelan]

4DIYers Funny. Because the ones on my 530i are super rusty so they must be cast iron.

[@4DIYers]

Just looked up the part numbers, apparently the 530i also came with cast iron calipers too. The 525 and 528 has aluminum calipers instead.

[@zookinthe6ix461]

Ended up doing this today and replaced with mevotech bearings. Everything went well however took a lot longer than expected. Question. I reused the original four bolts and tightened them with no thread locker. I spoke to two mechanics and both said not to use it, am I good here or have I made a mistake. The bolts were almost impossible to remove

[@4DIYers]

Reusing the old bolts are fine and technically speaking properly torquing bolts shouldn't loosen. But considering it's a high risk area as a safety point I would use thread locker. Originally they have high strength, that's why it was a nightmare to remove. I used medium strength, still provides a good hold but can be worked on if need be. Especially important if you cleaned the threads.

[@federalmogul3092]

thanks man

[@4DIYers]

Glad to help out!

[@571ballin]

I’m having an issue with my passenger side hub spindle. The metal sleeve that presses into the control arm seized up and I’m in need of replacement sleeves. Where should I start?

[@4DIYers]

Do you have a photo by any chance?

[@stephenlavelle1670]

Thx man

[@4DIYers]

Glad to help out!

[@stephenlavelle1670]

02 530i bmw i need to replace the front wheel bearing with ABS anything different without ABS

[@4DIYers]

The one in the video has abs as well. Shouldn't be anything different.

[@topwatertremors895]

I may or may not have stripped my lugs out of the hub and need to replace it…

[@وهمالاقنعة-ي7ف]

good

[@4DIYers]

Thank you!