How to Replace Transmission Mounts - 2002 V6 Acura TL/CL Honda Accord/Odyssey

In today's video, we will be replacing the transmission mounts on my 2002 Acura TL-S. Just like the engine mounts, these too keep the engine and transmission in place and help minimize vibrations. Some signs of worn-out transmission mounts include excessive movement and clunking specifically from the driver side of the engine bay during acceleration. Even if you don't hear anything, if your vehicle has over 200,000 miles, it would be a good idea to check your mounts to ensure they aren't worn, cracked, or completely broken.
Rubber, Front Transmission Mounting - Acura (50805-S87-A80) - www.acuraparts...
Rubber, Rear Transmission Mounting - Acura (50806-S0K-A80) - www.acuraparts...
0:00 Introduction
0:21 Signs and Symptoms of Bad Mounts
0:54 Visual Inspection
4:38 Ordering Parts
5:35 Remove 4 Lower Nuts
6:29 Jack up transmission an inch
7:07 Remove 4 Upper Bolts
9:02 Remove Transmission Mounts
10:32 Install Front Transmission Mount
10:57 Install & Torque 2 Upper Bolts to 28 ft.lbs
11:34 Install Rear Transmission Mount
11:46 Install & Torque 2 Upper Bolts to 28 ft.lbs
12:16 Lower Jack and Transmission Back Down
12:36 Install & Torque 4 Lower Nuts to 28 ft.lbs
13:04 Install Wheel and Torque Lug Nuts to 80 ft.lbs
13:10 Conclusion
1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 Acura TL TL-S Type S CL CL-S Base Premium 3.2 3.2L V6 Honda Accord Odyssey EX EX-L LX Cargo Touring 3.0 3.0L 3.5 3.5L Incineration Incin3ration

[@alexaraiza4060]

Bro your videos help me so much, I have a Acura CL type S that needs a lot of work and attention. This was my first car and I have a special connection towards it your tutorials make it so much easier to work on.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

That's awesome to hear! I'm glad they've been helpful! I think the main thing with these cars is to frequently drain and fill the ATF every 15,000 miles and your car will last 300,000 miles easy! Good luck and thanks for your support!

[@Flaming360Spider]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I'm already hitting the 400,000 mile mark not the original transmission though it's a rebuild transmission but it has over 5 years already. I just need to repaint the whole car the paint it far too gone.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@Flaming360Spider that’s awesome to hear you’ve accumulated so many miles! Idk what I’ll do that day my transmission fails. For now it’s running really great at 329000 miles!

[@bryanroman1462]

Watched a couple of videos and this one is by far the BEST DETAILED VIDEO. Thank you for your help man! Not all heroes wear capes

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you! I appreciate the compliment! Glad you enjoyed my video!

[@epipolarus]

Thanks for such informative and detailed video. I'm researching on transmission mount replacement on an Accord V6. I couldn't help noticing that you driver side CV shaft is about to SNAP!!!! Notice the rubber vibration damper has bulged up and cracked, that is caused by rust build up under it. The shaft is weakened by the substantial amount of rust and could snap anytime. If you still have that car, please get the issue addressed.

[@CitizenPerkins]

Nicely done, sir! You explained how to do that very well. And 315,000 miles! Wow! Congrats! Especially if you're the original owner. I'm the original owner of a white '02 TL-S that's approaching 200,000 miles. Fortunately for my car, I live in SoCal where things don't rust as fast. 🤞😁 Your channel name also seems familiar to me -- Were you a member of one of the TL-S forums? Or maybe I'm getting old and my memory is going! (My alias was/is 'vperkins2') 🤣 Either way, it's nice to see another '02 TL-S owner keeping his baby running! 👍👍

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you so much! I'm the second owner, bought it at 168k miles. Still running pretty strong! And yes, rust can be a nightmare! I do have an account on Acurazine, but I've made very few appearances on there. Yeah I'll drive this car until the wheels fall off haha Thanks for the support and I'm glad my videos could be helpful to fellow owners like you!

[@adamlopez4714]

Your videos are the best, thank you for the content! Hopefully one day you make a “ how to replace your steering rack” video. Unfortunately my steering rack is starting to go 🙃 and I can’t find a good tutorial video on how to replace it.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I’m glad my videos have been helpful! Yeah replacing the steering rack on this car is a long difficult process from what I understand. I’ll consider your video idea and look into it. You could also try the instructions from the service manual from cardiagn.com if it’s an urgent matter.

[@bman3800bman3800]

I had mine done at a shop. I recommend changing all of the hoses as well including the soft hoses. You’ll thank me later. Actually you won’t because you won’t have an issue if you do

[@Sam-wg6ge]

thank you for sharing. Need to replace mine as well.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

You’re welcome! It’s an easy component to overlook. Good luck with this project on your car!

[@kamalabbady6778]

Best video ever

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you very much!

[@MrSamPhoenix]

Great video man!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thanks again! Glad my videos have been helpful

[@Yophillips3272]

I'm about to go out and check my car.. i was thinking its just transmission going out but im not too sure

[@850CANE]

Good morning brother. I just bought the whole set of engine/transmission mounts. Where should I start at? I was thinking about doing the transmission mounts first but wondered if perhaps there's an order to do these in that might make it easier??? Thank you buddy

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

The order shouldn’t matter. To make it easier, you can remove the 4 lower transmission mount nuts and the 3 bracket to mount bolts/nuts on the engine mounts so when you’re lifting the engine/transmission, you won’t be limiting your range of motion and will have more leverage to work with. Then replace the 5 mounts, and lastly reinstall all of those original nuts/bolts last at the same time again. Good luck!

[@MacInAction]

Love your videos. Super helpful. You think you do a video on how to replace the power window regulator, preferably on the rear drivers side?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I’m glad my videos have been helpful! I’ll add that to my list of video ideas and consider making one later this summer!

[@chandiaz7694]

I hear a clonking noise from both left and right front suspension areas every time I go over pot holes (both small and midsized) I suspect the front shock struts are bad but I try bouncing the front of the car and I can’t define any smooshiness, bottoming of the strut or noises. Could the problem be the transmission mounts? I’ve already replaced the front engine mount, the upper A arms.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Unfortunately, it's tough to test the struts and know their condition's bad with them still on the car. A visual inspection can only tell you so much. Oil leaks, rust, torn dust covers, and simply having a few hundred thousand miles on them will usually mean they need replacing. As far as engine mounts go, it was mainly the passenger side engine mount that was giving me the most noise/clunking. It also wouldn't hurt to check the transmission mounts as shown at the beginning of this video. Two other things that I have found to be noisy going over bumps are broken sway bar end links, as well as exhaust heat shields. Make sure those end links aren't broken, and also wiggle the heat shield to see if they're noisy or not.

[@Yophillips3272]

I would guess sway bar links or sway bar bushings. Pretty cheap. That's what the annoying rattle noise was on my TL, sway bar bushings.

[@cryeredd7563]

did you do the rear engine mount in any video?

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

I have not done that one yet

[@cryeredd7563]

when jacking up the transmission more, to take the old mounts out, wouldn't it be a good idea to loosen the top nut on the front and rear mounts, so you don't damage them? also... in your video when you did the front engine mount, wouldn't it be a good idea to loosen the bottom four bolts for the transmission mounts? maybe this part wouldn't be needed, as you took the bracket off in that video, and didn't jack it up that high... just a thought.

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

It’s a good thought, but IMO not necessary. We’re only jacking the engine/transmission up 1”, and these mounts are made to be flexible to absorb the vibrations and torque of the engine. By all means though, it wouldn’t hurt to loosen the mentioned bolts either!

[@cryeredd7563]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple thanks for the quick reply. look forward to seeing the vid on the rear mount :)

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@cryeredd7563 yah I’ve gotten quite a few requests for it! Mine miraculously just hasn’t gone bad yet. It’s definitely on the list of future videos though!

[@Aarons14bugs]

Is the procedure the same for a 2004 tl? Looks like the same parts too so far..

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Yup, it should be pretty much the exact same!

[@astridaguayo6589]

Great video!!

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you so much!

[@xfxp1313]

Yay! you did it again. good job man. Any plan on replacing the rear motor mount also? I'm ordering two transmission mounts in the meantime :)

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

Thank you! As of now, I don't think I'll be replacing the rear motor mount. So far I'm not experiencing any excessive vibrations, clunking, or movement from it. The rear mount is very robust and rarely actually needs replacing, plus they're $200+. Maybe I'll revisit the idea later this summer. Good luck with your transmission mounts! :)

[@xfxp1313]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Any thoughts on neutralizing motor mounts? So far I replaced 4 mounts except for the rear one. The shop I went in 2014 used westar brand for all 5 mounts and I replaced them with Beck-Arnley ones except for the rear one since I find it very difficult to do it at home. and I do see about 1.5inch movement when accelerating in reverse and I still feel vibration when idling in Drive. Vibration definitely not as excessive as before but it is still a thing which I want to get rid of completely, and there's not much information about neutralizing motor mounts on our model. Please let me know what you think

[@CarRepairsMadeSimple]

@@xfxp1313 ive never read anything about neutralizing the mounts on our cars either, not even in the service manuals. I personally don’t have issues with vibrations with the installation method I used in this video. I wouldn’t recommend it based on that. The main thing I know about mounts and vibrations is Genuine Honda OEM mounts are best for comfort and absorbing vibrations but don’t last as long, aftermarket is the opposite where they transmit vibrations but last longer. It’s a pick your poison scenario.

[@xfxp1313]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Thank you for your reply again, I'll update you after the rear one replaced probably very soon.

[@xfxp1313]

@@CarRepairsMadeSimple whoa,, I just replaced my rear mount today and it got rid of the vibration issue completely, there's no difference between P. N & D any more! I'm so happy with all the mounts replaced now.. The previous set I had was from Westar. the rear one didn't look shot but I guess there isn't any hydraulic juice left there since it was replaced back in 2014 (I only put about 29k miles since the mount replacement). Anyways I'm happy with the result and I hope you do not need your rear replaced since it's costly. If the vibration comes back I'll also let you know, I heard certain batches of these mounts are not as good. The one I got is made by Indonesia btw.