How to Resin 3D Print Articulating Dragons

[@UncleJessy]

You can get that amazing dragon file here by Mcgybeer cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/articulated-dragon-mcgybeer Anyone else notice my White Eyelashes haha

[@lap87]

Uncle, are you going to make a PSA regarding the "airbrushing using resin to smooth prints"? Need videos from the resin giants to make sure it reaches people who might not realize what they're doing/about to do

[@bradleyleech1990]

I live in Australia can I enter and if I win I will cover postage. Would love a resin 3d printer . Thanks

[@vvsandgaming4648]

How about using Siraya Tech Tenacious to print these?

[@vvsandgaming4648]

Soak them in hot water for a few seconds and brush them with a very soft brush to clean any remaining resin off

[@crushers67]

Just got it!

[@GregAtlas]

Lychee has a over exposure compensation option that is great for prints like this. It will basically shrink the scale of the layers you tell it to so you can still get a strong initial cure to the plate but not have the expanding effect when doing it.

[@TheNulloverride]

is that new? I had to spend so much time sanding a print around halloween because of the elephant foot.

[@GregAtlas]

@@TheNulloverride it's a few months old now.

[@JorenMathews]

Even better. A light off delay at the bottom will mostly eliminate elephant foot.

[@salley1518]

What is the feature called or where do we find it? Is it only available in pro?

[@davidannett3322]

So what would you set the compensation to? I can;t find any guidance on that setting, I can though on light off delay which has seemed to help some

[@vipercanada]

I just wanted to add some more settings that work perfect when printing this. I am still using the Mars 2 Pro and this time used the Elegoo ABS like mint green resin. I did 4 bottom layers, bottom exposure 25 sec and exposure 2.5, layer height .05. This one turned out even better than my one I mentioned in a previous post as the legs move better. Hope this helps. Again the freezer trick helped it to almost fall off the plate once done.,

[@photoboyjet]

I just printed this file on my Elegoo Saturn, scaled to 80% and sliced in Chitubox. I just accepted the default settings and everything went perfectly, first try. After watching the video, I decided to use a single edged razor to carefully remove the thinner sections of the tail and the feet from the build plate. I printed the whiskers with thin supports as I was a bit leery about getting them off the build plate without breaking. Printed with no problems. All dragon's joints work perfectly.

[@LegendaryBomba]

I printed the dragon at 50% scale on an Ender-3 Pro this evening in slightly unfavorable conditions. Minus some brim trimming, it came out great; don't hate on the brim! I originally *wasn't* going to try this, because I haven't been able to complete ANY functional print in months. Thanks to your enthusiasm (and laughing at your own failures), I gained the confidence to simply TRY. Gotta thank you for that, and to ask that you keep doing what you're doing; makers like me appreciate it. 👍🏾👊🏾

[@ThePremiumsmore]

i might be wrong, but its a little odd to go through all the talking about changing settings without actually saying your settings.. I had to scroll into the comments to find people who already said what you didnt, after going off of vipercanada 's settings and it worked flawlessly.

[@davidmpazmino]

On my anycubic mono 4k I printed it flawlessly on my 2nd attempt at 45% scale or so. I love it so much, when I saw your post on it the other day I had to print it myself!

[@jwcin3d]

what settings you used?

[@ToadM16]

Also have a mono 4K and am curious on settings

[@deviles]

Hey Uncle Jessy, i love your vids, they are really inspiring and informative. When you do such presentation videos of some cool stupp, could you post your final settings that got it working fine? I would probably help a lot of people not going through a couple testprints and take up much of that printing time.

[@jonhammersley5593]

Thanks for this one, I'd been avoiding trying to print one of these and with your help got it on the second attempt (bottom layer number and time increase was the answer I needed).

[@HomeGrownComics]

Just got a mars 2 pro because of your videos this dragon was my very first print and it came out perfectly with the default settings. Not to sure how to tweak the exposed settings as of yet but I'll get there without a doubt. Thanks for the content and tips always 🙏🏽. Such a fun hobby

[@metomwhou]

Can you share the settings that you used for the both the dragons and the slugs?

[@Crits-Crafts]

i love that where a normal print pops off these flex with the plate

[@kilerrabit313]

A couple of "fixes" for this particular print was with the use of an artist palette knife and a dental flosser. My first print (I have a resin printer) directly on the build plate came out perfect but I broke it due to the pressure of the normal beveled putty knife putting too much pressure on the joints. That's where the palette knife came into play because it allowed me to apply pressure to each individual joints. I started at the head and worked my way to the tail and came off flawlessly. Then I used the dental flosser to clean each of the joints for those hard-to-reach areas. Props to my sister-in-law for the palette knife idea and my wife for the dental flosser idea. My idea? I ordered a wham bam for my mighty and an anycubic wash and cure plus. For those who are not ready to invest in a wash and cure station, these are not bad tools to pick up due to the palette knife being $7 bucks on amazon and the dental flosser being around $70. Awesome video as always. Props to you because I watched your videos prior to getting my printer so I would be aptly prepared when it finally arrived. Harbor Freight is now my go-to place to get my printing supplies. Now if they would only sell resin...

[@IndustrialJones]

Print success! Printed on an Elegoo Mars 2 (non-pro). Sliced in Chitubox; exposure time - 3.5; lift distance - 5; lift speed - 80; bottom exposure - 45; layer height - .05; retract speed 210. 55% scale. Used Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey. It took 1 hour 36 minutes. Full articulation.

[@vipercanada]

Just what ì was looking for. Thanks

[@ScoobyDoobyDoo-me9bh]

Those are so amazing! I have always wished to have a 3-D printer, so it has been such a pleasure watching what you can do.

[@Hooverdreng]

The bottom exposure problem can be pretty much solved with the UV Tools software. You can erode the images of the bottom layers until it more or less matches and cancels the elephant's foot.

[@TheDevlshOne]

BTW.. this is the ONLY 3d printing channel I am subscribed to. Yours is the best.

[@Irokuz1]

Thank you so much Jessy all of your videos have taught me so much about resin 3d printing. I am getting my self the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and this will be my first adventure into 3d printing and I cant wait to make these!

[@solardile7143]

In lychee, you can create a Mesh Raft with the pro version. This mesh raft means you can easily detach from the build plate without damaging the print, and then peel off the raft EZ PZ !!!

[@UncleJessy]

Oh damn! Going to look that up tonight!

[@craigbossard399]

@@UncleJessy I really want to know more about this!

[@proxlamuz4591]

Shame Lychee doesn't have a one time purchase for the pro. Monthly fees... no thank you

[@solardile7143]

@@proxlamuz4591 you can always subscribe for a month and then cancel it. Doesn’t cost much

[@HEMASimian]

@@proxlamuz4591 or you can pay for the year for the cost of a coffee a month, and support competent developers for their work.

[@arreisau]

Haven't seen many people including the whiskers/stache when printing these in resin. MIght be because printing the stache on the build plate direct flattens it. I found scaling the stache to 95% of the dragon scale, and putting it on supports made it keep its shape and fit better into the stache holes on the snout (before curing). (Printed the dragon itself directly on the plate.)

[@petergammon4458]

Haha was sitting at the start of vid questioning why you hadnt done them on a flex plate XD Glad to see them in action at the end. Been a life saver for me.

[@ThaDeeMon]

This is very printable on a resin printer. Managed to do it first time on my Mono X at 80% scale with 40 second initial, 2 seconds after with a mix of old resin dregs. Printed it on a cheapy knock-off brand magnetic build plate and Bobs your uncle. Great model.. Thanks MCGYBEER for an awesome model and thanks Uncle Jessy for showing us how.

[@jbingbong]

Thanks to you I sprung for the Elegoo Neptune 2S and aside from some bed adhesion issues I've been having a great time 🥰

[@SirTonyChaos]

Bought the Mars 2 Pro on your suggestion and I love it so far! Would you be willing to share your settings for the Mars 2 Pro so I can avoid wasting time and resin? 😂 Love your videos! Super hyped for every video that pops up so please keep them coming!

[@vipercanada]

I just posted my settings here which works perfect on the Mars 2 Pro. Took 3 tries but now perfect everytime.

[@3DJapan]

Agree about the room temp. In the summer I work in my garage but I can't use resin printers in there after the weather gets colder. I actually move the printer into my kitchen and keep it under the table.

[@vipercanada]

I just wanted to post that I was able to print a fully articulated dragon that came off cleanly off the build plate on a Mars 2 Pro printer with siraya tech fast grey resin. It turned out perfectly. The setting I used were as follows: 50% size, Layer height .05mm, bottom layers 5, exposure time 2sec, bottom exposure time 25 seconds, bottom lift speed 50, lifting speed 60. Hope this helps. If you are finding that the dragon is not articulating then your bottom exposure time is too high. These same settings with a bottom exposure at 35 sec would not articulate. Longer the exposure time the more the resin expands and fuses together making articulation impossible. So if yours prints find try lowering the bottom exposure time by 5 or 10 seconds less than the resins suggested times and you should be fine. Also if your dragon is stuck to the build plate then put the plate in the freezer for 20 minutes. Comes off easier.

[@GrantGiandonato]

Thanks for the setting! Is your resin the same as 'Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like Grey Resin?'

[@vipercanada]

@@GrantGiandonato yes exactly

[@vipercanada]

@@GrantGiandonato another thing to mention. After printing put your build plate in the freezer for 20 minutes. Then take it out and run hot water from your taps on the back of the build plate. This caused my dragon to pop right off. I now do this method with all prints and has made things do much easier. Hope this helps. I'm super new to this and learning as well

[@GrantGiandonato]

Awesome! I’ll have to give that a try. Thanks!

[@GrantGiandonato]

@@vipercanada Printed one today and it came out perfectly. I didn't use the freezer trick but will keep it in mind for the future. Thanks again!

[@thickyeez6265]

I have always used supports with my articulated builds on my resin printer. Never had issues with any size. I just choose the file then fit to plate and auto support and slice & save then print. I dont mess with print setting. Still running stock setting saturn 3

[@Tyrinath]

The floppiness makes these things strangely adorable, noodle dragons!

[@Colleenispunk]

You channel is AWSOME!! And I just found it yesterday! The things you do are crazy cool!!

[@KSClaw]

My brother in law got me one of these for Christmas :) It's a beautiful dark blue and I'm so happy

[@loveiswaytruthlife995]

I bought elgoo neptune 2s because of your videos. Bought for my family for Christmas.

[@casualreefkeeping]

Of course i found this video after i printed it on the creality halot one i got last week. I used elegoo abs like translucent red, and it came out spectacularly. Using supports and a flexible plate made it super easy to remove. I forgot to take note of the scale size, i had auto scaled it down to fit on the bed.

[@PrintThatBoii]

Awesome! I wanted to print this on my new resin printer(I’m new to this) but I didn’t know how to start 😂 now I do, thanks!

[@vipercanada]

Did I miss something. I was waiting for the final settings you used as I have the Mars 2 pro and already have the dragon stl file. Would save us a lot of trial and error if you could share what the final exposure settings were. Thanks

[@jamstok]

Omg.. i did not know about flex plates!!!! You have no idea how happy you just made me! Tis the only thing that really made resin printing annoying, now Thats fixed. Thx

[@Jackalgirl]

For the dragon on the ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra, I ended up needing to raise up the model a bit (maybe 3 or 4 mm) and let Chitubox auto-build light supports for it, with the bottom layer at 35 seconds and the rest at 2 seconds with standard 8K resin with the machine indicating a temp of 37-39 degrees C. It printed just fine and articulated cleanly as soon as I'd cleared it from the supports. I'd still like to get it to print flat on the bed, but I haven't dialed in the machine for that yet: I think 35 seconds will be too much for the bottom, but 25 seconds isn't enough; at the minimum that most sites say is the requirement (20 degrees) and 25 seconds for the bottom, the bottom layer did not adhere to the print plate: it remained stuck to the FEP film. At a slightly warmer temperature (34-37 degrees C) I still got some sections doing this as well as delamination of one of the legs, so I settled on printing on supports and that worked. For the slug, a print at 100% was too small; the segments partially fused, and the walls were so thin that trying to gently work them apart (and making use of a dental pick) resulted in some breakage (settings for that were 30 seconds bottom, 2 second layer, machine temp between 39 and 42 degrees C most of the time). My most recent attempt was 150% scale, 28 seconds bottom time with 2 second layers (temp between 39 and 41 degrees C as reported by the machine) and that worked relatively well; what minor fusing there was released with just a little bit of gentle pressure and twisting.

[@edwinirizarry9277]

I’m so gna buy that file that’s the most amazingly beautiful articulated thing I’ve seen yet

[@Sycoinc]

Printed a few designs out, had majority fail in some way or not be 100% working, takes getting use to them to dial in to print them.... found a little bigger for smaller ones it tends to work better for me

[@jamesb4693]

I was so hoping you would have listed your settings for the Mars 2 pro

[@GeorgMierau]

I wasn't sure if the model made for FDM will work for MSLA as well, so I've printed it on my Mars 3 Pro at 50% scale with some additional supports added in Lychee Slicer. Two of the smaller segments of the tail seem to stuck and I also had to widen the sockets for the mustache a bit, but overall it turned out perfectly fine!

[@tobyhall8198]

3d printing looks awesome,I can't wait til I purchase one for minis,again looks awesome!!!

[@painter4lifenyc909]

Most likely room temperature also in NYC just had an issue from temp. I am loving the Saturn.

[@kimzaffino3116]

Thanks for the 'freezer tip' This will come in handy. Also touching on the room temp was a great reminder. I learn so much from your videos - Thank you.

[@3DMusketeers]

OOOOH that rainbow filament in the intro was AMAZING, who makes it???? Temperature matters so much for resin printing! We are working on a solution for it.. Glad to see a flex plate works well! That final shot of you flexing the dragon off, I want someone to do that to my back LOL

[@UncleJessy]

That Rainbow was zyltech's and it's dang nice. i believe that was their silk PLA. hahaha flex plate back cracking

[@3DMusketeers]

@@UncleJessy Awesome! Next time I place an order I will have to get some! Just loaded up on Printed Solid so it may be a while. That Black Friday sale was too good.

[@ToadallyTrevor]

As someone new to resin 3d printing do you have a recommendation for settings for (exposure time, lift distance/speed, bottom exposure time) etc? Somewhere for me to start! Great video, love the work you're doing!

[@solardile7143]

Entirely depends on what printer you have. Every printer has different settings due to a different LED array, screen type, etc.

[@ToadallyTrevor]

@@solardile7143 Interesting, I am using the Elegoo Mars 2 (green) I guess I should have specified thank you!

[@Filiaris1]

Was going to do it, so thank you for this vid

[@tesseracht]

I printed one of these up the other day in my Mono X, unfortunately the tip of the tail snapped off in the wash station. Definitely going to re-do it.

[@UncleJessy]

ouch, yeah i have broken off a bunch of tails doing just that

[@mariamorales8503]

i have a 3d printer of filament and i print the dragon but some parts are stiff and how is all the parts moving when you take it off please tell me

[@jamesdunn581]

Oh man.... I would love a Saturn. (ha) I'm deff. going to try this for Christmas! Thanks!

[@TheNehebkau]

Great video, to future people attempting this, remember that your exposure times will depend on your own environment and what settings work for your neighbour may not work for you. Also if you are removing a model with a flex plate, I would suggest not flexing it up into the air/towards your face or at the very least, don't do so without wearing eye protection, otherwise it's a great way to land droplets of resin/IPA in your eyes.

[@manuelcarrera306]

I just was looking for this, thanks 👍🏻

[@caseychadsalvador]

Successfully Printed 2 Dragons with no issues and with perfect articulation!

[@DroneSkinz]

Thanks UnkJessie for this clip. I've been looking for a video like this for a minute and you didn't disappoint sir. Thanks for sharing this helpful and easy to understand video. You're da man!😉👍🏽

[@AngelaSmith_1970]

I just found your channel and I’m learning so much, thank you, you’re awesome 😎🙏🏽🙌🏽

[@UncleJessy]

Awesome to hear! Thanks for checkingout the videos! Glad to hear they are helping!

[@cornbreadthief]

i print mine on a flex plate on the saturn at original (100%) size with following: layer height: .04, exposure time 2 sec, bottom exposure 20 sec, rest time after retract .500, and retract speeds of 150. on most up-to-date chitubox. I've had 1 out of a dozen failures so far. using transparent green

[@meboo2ichi896]

Would getting the magnetic flex build plate help at all? I mean you break prints a lot less for sure! I’ve never done print in place.

[@Duh-FreakShow]

So what are the print setting supposed to be ? The rest is cake and pretty regular, I need the settings,

[@Sarahstarr1000]

Do you paint the eyes and fangs on them? Please say yes?

[@saruichiban]

I love this dragon, on my Mono SE I think the fit to plate put it at 47%. I always have issues with the legs fusing but the rest of it is fine.

[@sweetbee52]

Oh would I love to print one of those in transparent green, orange or red.

[@kanaancross317]

I did one of the rose baby dragons, it printed fine but I kept breaking off the feet while trying to remove it

[@thejoester]

I found that hitting the base and the scraper with a hair dryer makes removing prints WAY easier!

[@Keseleth]

I am curious about that flexible plate, do you need to readjust printer's height, axis etc. settings to use it or it doesn't really make that much of a difference to do so?

[@camdavbax]

You just relevel your plate. It will be 'further up' on the z axis but makes no difference to your settings. Love my flex plates

[@MrAlden87]

Is this where one of those removable flexible build plates would come into place?

[@rasplundjr]

Just the video I've been looking for, Thank you

[@steadman_walking2866]

I use supports on these and it works so much better

[@gnicol9992]

I just need to find a way to buy a wambam plate for the Mars 3 that delivers to the UK.

[@Donovarcotfw]

Always printed these guys with a couple of mm support for removal purposes, but the end 6 or so tail joints do fuse up on me. Guessing drop a second or so on exposure. 50% stock settings on photon mono

[@crushers67]

Lookiing forward to getting into resin printing soon!

[@momobun.]

The slugs are so cute! Those are the ones I want to print.

[@TheGame2K5]

I must have been lucky with my settings. I printed 2 with no adjustments and only issue I had was the smaller pieces towards the tail dont flex. Figure thats mostly due to the small scale.

[@DevineDarkness]

I was just thinking about the freeze before you mentioned it xD I've been lucky to only need 10 minutes in the freezer when printing on plate thankfully

[@ChazBword]

Lol printed this drago first on SLA then on FDM. Having a flexible plate on the resin printer makes this so easy to print.

[@C.M.M.]

what is a good bottom exposure and exposure time?

[@FranklyWry]

Wow! Beautiful prints, with so many ways to pose them as decorative gifts. And then there are incalculably many ways to apply your tips to other types of articulated figures. One thing I thought of but probably is not plausible: Could we clean prints on the plate and cure them in place with a UV light?

[@lastlight05]

My first shot came out great except for one leg not being supported correctly and the very end of the tail being kinda stiff. Proxima 6 at 49% with auto supports plus a few of my own. Gonna tweak my settings a little for round 2.

[@x3-fet727]

How do you solve the problem of slicers for LСD / LED printers, which is that there is no way to set NOT 100% infill of the solid parts of the parts (for example 15% or 30% as in the case of FDM printers)?

[@clinthipfner6042]

You hollow out the part set wall thickness, and then u can set the percent of infil with grid3d in chitubox

[@shadeemry]

what was your settings for the elegoo saturn? i have the same one.

[@Practical3DP]

Did Hitry send you their Rocket1? They said they did. Looking forward to seeing you use it if so.

[@bellyhold]

I'm new to resin printing... I can't find a ton of info on how to properly dispose of your dirty IPA/wash water. Any advice you can provide?

[@GonaldDlover24]

Does anybody know what brand of rainbow filament is used in the video?

[@RamiYazgai]

Hi I bought the articulated dragon after I saw your video to use it as a test for my new anycubic photon m3 plus I bought two m3 plus I try all kinds of resin exposure tests and everything was working perfectly even the smallest details but every time I try to print the articulated dragon on both 3-D printer the stash always fail . Did you have this issue what was your exposure setting .

[@ericviger4984]

Coincidently I just got finished printing one of these on my Phrozen Mini, however not all the joints are articulating. What did you use to get it to print right?

[@UncleJessy]

I explain in the video you should check your bottom exposure, exposure for fusing

[@ericviger4984]

@@UncleJessy damn I knew I had to watch it again hahaha thanks for the reply man 👍

[@chino1moreno]

ohhh my gosh the sentinel! in the background!

[@hisfam5]

can someone please tell me the settings ive printed about 7 of these and every time the same spot isnt fully attached and it breaks

[@uslashdeleted4171]

I have a magnetic build plate for my elegoo mars Pro. So i can take of the build plate I can flex it a bit and my print jumps right of. Just like with fdm printers.

[@drakeinraven1705]

@uncle Jessy - this is where a flexible build plate comes in 😁. Did my fist print like this got the print of without breaking....BUT.... parts are fused... (Shout out from South Africa)

[@UncleJessy]

yeppers! Flexplate for the win... show that off towards the end of the video

[@drakeinraven1705]

@@UncleJessy 2nd print sorted like you said had to play with exposure... very happy.

[@ArtFord]

Would printing that dragon in water washable resin make it too brittle when you cure it, even if you cure it suspended in water?

[@UncleJessy]

love the idea of curing in water, will give that a try, water washable might be too brittle but as long as you dont drop them you should be okay

[@ArtFord]

I was mostly worried about it cracking during curing or doing that lovely thing when a simi hollow print decides to randomly crack and pop from the change in surface volume. Also, have you never heard about curing in water? A few gaming mini people do it to keep prints from over curing or developing those white spots you'll occasionally get on detailed prints.

[@deviles]

I printed an octopus wiht articulated arms the other day with the washable resin. some joints stukc a little, but i could get them free by wiggling the joints a little bit until the parts broke apart and then worked fine. you jsut have to be very careful. after that it holds up really good. Thrown it for my cat to play with and its still doing fine.

[@vipercanada]

I did my first one in water washable resin. Looked beautiful when done. Started removing from plate and was fine till I got to the tail. Very brittle. I maybe should have cured it first but gonna try again with normal resin soon. Very new to this

[@davids5400]

Looking forward to printing one of these! Are articulating prints/files common in resin printing or relatively new?

[@UncleJessy]

Not very common. I dont really think I saw any before I posted about the slug back in July but I'm sure some folks must have tried it

[@sweeeenay]

I've been able to print a handful of print-in-place articulating files on my Mars 2. The Flexi Rex is fantastic, and there's a Flexi shark that's also really nice. The Milli also works well. Some of the other ones I didn't enjoy as much, unsure if because resin or because the models were just lacking.

[@TheDoliack]

That’s really cool. I had to sell my filament printer because we moved and I was planning on eventually replacing it with a resin. I’m learning a lot with all these videos. Too bad I don’t have anything to test them on yet.

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

I felt that break in the intro. 😱

[@TallGiantOx]

I have a mars 3 and for the life of me cannot find a magnetic build plate. Where did you get yours?

[@lukedavies5175]

I have a Anycubic Photon Mono X 4K and Printed the Dragon, I re-sized the Dragon to fit the Build Plate it printed Perfectly! But it was so hard to get off the Build Plate I unfortunately Snapped One of the Legs in Half but other then that it’s Perfect.

[@MrJadedbyroutine]

do you know your settings, i also have an anycubic photon mono (2k) and want to compare against what i'm using currently.

[@jestermarcos]

Do you sharp your spatula until it is razor sharp? All the videos that I see people alwayz have to use some force to take out the prints from the build plate, but with my razor sharp spatula and a low angle I can remove any print with almost zero effort. I don't need to wack it, jest gently push until the spatula get underneath the print.

[@bombard3d]

I think you'll find that using the plastic spatula allows you to be a little rougher with the sliding ram technique of removing prints, which has been more successful in my experience without a flex plate.

[@dcsechrest]

What settings did you use on your saturn to print this?

[@ZeroPulseProductions]

I actually got one printed at 45% about a week ago on my Photon. The last 2 links were fused but i think I can fix that with just a little more tweaking, but ive been busy with other projects.

[@JohnHDK]

The last links is not supposed to flex

[@ZeroPulseProductions]

@@JohnHDK The last 2 links that are intended to articulate are the ones I'm referring to.

[@tabathasteele7547]

What about an Elegoo Mars3? Also what resin is best to use for these?

[@DCReviews4]

That Haslab Sentinel highlights the major reason I love your channel! I love seeing my interests overlap! But I do have an overall question for anyone who can help, I work on the road so I live out of a RV would it be possible at all to get any kind of 3D printer in something as unstable as an RV even though I stay in place for months at a time?

[@littleloner1159]

I'm no expert, and I have no clue about resin printing But if you're not printing while driving i know you for sure can have a printer in your RV One of the members of Hak5 (i think it was glitch) also lived in his RV for a while, 3D printer included

[@perrinconsolati3455]

I'm new to 3d printing. Im also a new subscriber and will be watching many more videos from you. Im looking for a good place to get started and learn as much as i can tutorials and such. So once my printer is here next week im more educated. Thank you for any help