How to Run Conduit in Studs per 2023 NEC 300.4(A)(1)

[@SparkyChannel]

Timestamps 00:00 How to Run Conduit in Studs per 2023 NEC 300.4(A)(1) 00:06 Greg Anliker and Emma Beckett starting their challenges 01:19 Greg bends double 90°'s 02:11 Greg runs straight 3/4" emt in the studs 02:52 Greg puts a box offset on his double 90°'s 03:23 Greg adds double 90°'s to the straight emt 04:06 Roman begins his challenge 04:54 Roman bends his double 90°'s 06:10 Roman begins his straight pipe installation 07:14 Roman installs his 2nd straight pipe piece 08:20 2023 NEC 300.4(A)(1) 10:45 2023 NEC 300.4(A)(1) Exception #1 12:00 Raul Vasquez interview 12:37 My opinion and wrap-up

[@Zaxthran]

There's not enough residential EMT videos around. Thanks for sharing this one!

[@SparkyChannel]

My pleasure, thanks Daniel!

[@timdyer7692]

Nice video, Bill! Thanks for adding narration and code references.

[@SparkyChannel]

You bet! Thanks Tim!

[@13_13k]

No corner studs? How convenient. Maybe this test should be more realistic as far as the structure build.

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, that was a bit odd.

[@robmurray5784]

Yeah. I was looking forward to some learning on that.

[@13_13k]

@@robmurray5784 ---- at the very least there would be two 2x4 studs, one on eadh wall at a 45° angle to each other with either no gap in the corner between them or a small opening and then an empty space behind the two studs. Kinds like its own reverse corner, and sometimes the studs will be doubled so you have four total making that corner. You're never going to get a piece of pipe bent that will make that turn through the proper hole size. You would have to blow out the holes so big you'd lose the integrity of the studs and an inspector would call you on that as well as you'd piss off the carpenters if they were still around. Let's say you think you can do it. You'd have a hard time just drilling holes straight, they are going to be slightly angled, in and out or up and down or both and both holes, one on each wall, will be the opposite angles as each other so a straight 90° bend (that sounds funny) won't line up with the holes and you'll never get it to work. That's why God gave someone the idea for aluminum flex and even better MC cable or Romex. Corners are a pain in the ass. There's always a work around, a way to get it done but it is always time consuming extra work. I have to look to see if there are any videos that show how to deal with corners for electricians

[@davenag957]

I'm curious if certain power tools were prohibited and or provided to contestants. Could they use their daily carry? Here are some tips I use to improve piping speed: Get an old school folding stick rule and sharpee mark all your common dimensions on it for layout, and also use it as a story pole to mark your hole locations. Tape measures are great for certain things but are slow and wiggly. Don't fold and unfold it, leave it opened up and lean it somewhere. You need to be fast at drilling holes or its game over. A chalk line is fast for marking a long horizontal wall with height locations. A Laser is also a time saver. Get a small metal cutting circular saw with 50 tooth blade. Mines a Bosch and blows away the mini band saw for speed and square clean cuts. My lightweight 12 volt Milwaukee impactor is the most used tool for driving screws and 12 volt 90deg impactor with Klein reamer with #2 square bit to ream and tighten fittings in all locations. An 18 volt impactor with 1" Irwin speedbore bit is the bomb for running 1/2" thinwall. I never enter the sides of switch boxes, always top/bottom. The fitting threads can interfere with deep devices when a 2 gang ring is used. A 12" 90 with a slight kick gets you out of the box and transitioned to the center of the stud without an offset. Also, carry the minimum amount of weight with you when running emt. Lots of bending, kneeling, reaching will wear you out prematurely if you have your entire toolbox strapped around your waist. You need to move fast to make money and stay employed. I always have at least one folding 20" high work platform nearby as a table or to access ceilings. Ladder rungs kill your feet and the platform allows you to stand flat footed along with working a larger ceiling area without repositioning. Last thing, knee pads, knee pads, knee pads! I have over 40 years into the trades and these techniques have allowed me to keep cranking out the pipe at 60 years old.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

I disagree. After using a number of cutting options, I would put my 20V mini porta-band up against anything for speed, ease of use, squareness/cleanliness of cut, and durability. Ill never use anything else

[@ThisIsNotAVideo]

Do you ever use deeper mud rings to give more space on the box and avoid device interference with the conductors? I used 1 1/4 inch deep mud rings to allow setting the holes closer to center of studs, meet box fill requirements for conductors, and also give more space for big devices (smart switches, GFCIs). There are some really good looking adjustable depth metal mud rings as well that go all the way from 1/2 to like 1 1/2 that seem perfect for kitchens where a backsplash might be added.. or not.

[@Enlightn76]

If I'm running raceways or cables in a wooden structure I'm thinking about ALL inspections. Just because my electrcial inspector passes me doesn't mean the building inspector will like what I've done. GC's don't want a failed inspection regardless. •It's good to give local inspectors a call and or manufacturer recommendation for any engineered wood products.. (most inspectors don't know what's allowed per manufacturer specs, and an email or spec sheet from the manufacturer solves a lot of problems and arguments. •EMT matetial and tubing wall thickness is comparable to nail guards O wouldn't see a need for nail guards on EMT. PVC and fiberglass conduits seem like asking for trouble if a screw happens to "intersect" it. I would nail guard those.

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent!

[@gregchambers6100]

Center of stud holes just big enough for cable do not require nail plates, but we do them anyway unless the inspector says it passes due to the 1 1/4" distance from the edge, but dry wallers can get longer screws mixed up with 1 1/4, so play it safe. I personally prefer conduit everywhere for the reason that circuits, or switch legs might be added or upgraded. The same with conduit size. We always oversize our conduit slightly for the reasons of ease of pull and possible need for upgrading or adding UP TO the limit required by the derating table. Making small notches for cables is fine with nail plates since it minimizes structural damage caused by larger holes and totally protects the cable.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Greg!

[@funnyharleyman]

I’m a retired Chicago 134 electrician. I had a friend that was remodeling a bathroom in the apartment building he owned. Turns out, the EMT was running in the depth of the first example. He drove a drywall screw dead center into the conduit and created a short circuit. If there’s enough “meat” on the wood to guide that drywall screw dead center it can penetrate the thin wall pipe. Also, using a 1 1/4 drywall screw depth is not realistic, (although it is the standard for hanging sheet rock) people use all kinds of drywall screw lengths. Furthermore, the corners are completely unrealistic, I’ve never seen a corner with less than two studs.

[@SparkyChannel]

All great points, thanks!

[@pld8993]

If he drove a drywall screw through EMT, he's not a smart guy. There's no possible way, even dead center, that you could drive a drywall screw into EMT and not know you hit something; the screw would come to a dead stop once you hit it and continue spinning. Then, knowing you are hitting something that's not wood, you'd have to keep the screw gun spinning while pushing on it hard for several seconds for this to even be possible. The walls of emt are the almost the same thickness as a nail plate so no, nail plates are not required and are unnecessary with thinwall. However, I've never agreed with the exception that allows you to run PVC without a nailplate. I don't ever run PVC except underground, but one could pretty easily drive right into PVC with little effort and think it's a knot.

[@johntaylor1947]

I always drill my holes in the middle of the stud to prevent inspection problems. Don't argue with an inspector over something like that.

[@SparkyChannel]

Sounds good!

[@Bobcat1950]

Building codes dictate hole placement and hole size. As a rule of thumb I drill from the center and the hole cannot exceed 1/3 the width. I have never had to install raceway like this. I was very intrigued and thought I might learn a new skill. I was taught to bend conduit laying on the floor, I gave the other method a try and wasn’t happy with my results. Suppose to be PLS and Parallel. The second contestant did a better job bending, but was cutting short pieces using connectors to fix his issues. I demolished a wall once with a long full sized piece of conduit in it with studs 16” on center. They had started with a hole from the door opening, pushed the conduit in, installed the switch box. I would like to see more content on how the Pro’s install raceways in stud walls without using a connector every 2’.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@TwilightxKnight13]

If you get to the job early enough, running full sticks of conduit become a bit easier,especially for partition walls. If I had to run horizontally, I would just punch a hole in the middle all the way from end to end. Then I could slide a full stick in one end thru all the holes into the cavity I needed, then couple a 90 down (usually) to the box. If you use deep boxes and are careful with the depth of your bore holes, you can avoid offsets into/out of the boxes and just focus on 90s. A well-planned job should not be overly complicated. And at the end of the day, the framing is all covered anyway, so who cares if there are a few extra holes as long as they don't exceed structural limitations.

[@Eduskator]

No nail plates needed when EMTs are used as per NEC. I’d argue this with an inspector up to a certain point. However, holes should be in the middle for structural reason and I believe an inspector would fail the guy of the bottom at 13:20

[@SparkyChannel]

Hi! Excellent points. But which inspector and where? That is exactly the way it is run (and approved) in Chicagoland. I'm not disagreeing with you at all though but opinions on this can really vary with different inspectors in different areas.

[@chrisharper2658]

Seems like a place where BX should be used but considering how destructive it is to run the EMT through the studs, maybe run the EMT straight up into the rafters or down into a crawl space or basement. That way the runs, while longer, would be cleaner and would be less likely to impact the structures integrity.

[@onyxcoc69]

I feel like it makes it a little more difficult to get conduit in tight spaces but I can see the importance of upholding the Integrity of the structure.

[@SparkyChannel]

I agree!

[@billstarr9396]

Code says no metal plates required if using EMT. However the NEC always refers to the AHJ and in this case the AHJ is saying plates needed if the EMT is not 1 1/4" on center from the edge of the stud. Also competitor #2 did not support the EMT within 12" of the panel enclosure. He also would not be able to strap the EMT because he did not put a box set in the EMT where it enter the panel enclosure.

[@barryomahony4983]

Nail plates not needed per NEC since it's EMT. But from structural POV, a stud in a load bearing wall or partition may need reinforcing if the hole exceeds 60% of stud depth or is closer than 5/8" to the edge, per the IRC. In that case, IMO a nail plate ain't gonna cut it. Simpson Strong Ties makes wrap around reinforcing brackets for this.

[@SparkyChannel]

Well said! Yes, Simpson Strong Ties makes wrap around reinforcing brackets would be great for this instance.

[@carlodonnell146]

so can't nails penetrate the EMT?

[@barryomahony4983]

@@carlodonnell146 Maybe, but the NEC says you don't need to protect it. Drywall crews aren't stupid and they just move the screw or nail and inch or so if they hit any resistance,

[@JustOneRedSoloCup]

Sparky, I always enjoy your coverage of the Ideal National Championship series - you're the perfect spokesperson for the tradecraft.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much. I think this is the best trade and I hope more become interested in it.

[@marcfruchtman9473]

You mentioned that this was per 2023 code, so the exception (as you mentioned) allows for EMT without a nail plate. In NC, I believe the code [R602.6] allows for a notch of a stud for a non-bearing wall to be upto 40%. The width of a 2x4 is typically 3.5". You can get away with a hole about 1.4" in diam. If that stud showing a crack @2:27 hadn't split like that, he probably would be ok. But, unfortunately, once it split, it probably wouldn't pass, because the hole + the split enlarged the hole more than the allowed.

[@Don-pq5gg]

It is very easy to drive a screw through PVC conduit. I think the code in inadequate when it lumps EMT and PVC in the same "no metal plate needed" rule. Of course the wire inside the PVC conduit would, in practice, PROBABLY, escape damage from the screw but still . . . .

[@SparkyChannel]

I was surprised to see the rigid PVC on that list too.

[@sethtaylor5938]

The nail plate does nothing for the weakened stud, although it protects the raceway. And, the code does exempt most conduit types from the nail plate installation anyway. i would have opted for the EMT on centers to avoid questioning by the authority to avoid rework. Yes, it's a bit more difficult to do it on centers. Also, if PVC conduit is permitted it's easier to work with as you can use a heat gun to soften it to make it more pliable. I like to make the first hole a bit larger to start the pipe, the all the other holes smaller, just enough to pass the pipe through. Takes more time, but prefer to do it that way. Electrical work is not a race. Need the extra volume for the ground conductor too if PVC. Once PVC cools off, it will keep it's position.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Seth. Excellent tips and points!

[@peterbassett1176]

Thanks, Seth. Would you know the NEC code and the rule for using PVC vs. EMT or other materials? Thanks

[@alexpopescu7312]

The nail plates aren't for the studs bonehead

[@jolyonwelsh9834]

The nice thing about this method is that you can use up most of your conduit scrap.

[@SparkyChannel]

Good point!

[@ytdeagle]

Looks like the 1-1\4 dim is from the edge of the hole to edge of stud, not center of conduit. So the smaller you can make the hole the more likely you will have 1-1/4 left from edge of hole to edge of stud and not have to use plates.

[@SparkyChannel]

Good point, thanks!

[@ivanramirez8828]

i have installed emt in wood studs per code in highland park (dallas) texas. it is a tough install, we mostly stuck to 1/2" where possible. one thing i noticed is that there was not a wood corner framed to go through. that is the real challenge. but honestly you need to start with 1-1/2" wood bit. we were not required to install protection plates. not necessary with emt. drywall nails dont generally have the strength to penetrate emt (i assume!). and i did tend to shade to one edge or the other of studs just to help myself. also a very handy item is the coupling that slides completely over the conduit. that way you are not fighting as much to pop the conduit into the coupling. but overall, it is going to take much longer than normal.

[@SparkyChannel]

Sounds good. Thanks Ivan!

[@farmerdave7965]

Putting conduit through studs is my nemesis. I generally use MC cable.

[@SparkyChannel]

Sounds good to me.

[@ianbutler1983]

I could do that. It will be ready next Thursday.

[@SparkyChannel]

I hear that!

[@dirtdevil7bo]

I had the honor of having Raul judge my IMC project at the 2022 SkillsUSA National Championship in Atlanta!

[@SparkyChannel]

He's a super nice guy!

[@JRS2248]

since electric screw drivers are the tool of choice these days you will find screws with penetrate EMT ; so if the EMT is not 1 1/4 inches from the outside surface of the stud nail plate is not needed. But if closer they are.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks John!

[@TwilightxKnight13]

By code they are not required. However, the code is only a guideline and the AHJ can insist you put plates on anything they want even if it is not required by the code

[@isaackvasager9957]

No, they still are not required. You're feelings don't matter. The code does. And the code literally specifically says they are not required...as Sparky showed.

[@pld8993]

@@TwilightxKnight13 Absolutely not.

[@lou9108]

Dear Sparky. I am amazed that the extra steps both contestants take measuring and then deducting the distance of the emt. I was taught and teach to just add the 6 inches of the tape measure beyond the end of the pipe, that does the deduction for you. Add that time up for a high rise and see what you can save.

[@SparkyChannel]

Hi Lou! For other viewers: 6" is the amount of bender take-up for a 3/4" pipe bender. Lou is discussing a time-saving technique. Great tip, thanks!

[@andrewtibbetts9181]

Or whenever possible just mark the conduit the same measurement you want the height of your 90 to be, flip the bender opposite direction of the end you measured from and use the star. I find this much quicker and easier depending on the location of bends

[@13_13k]

Lou --- you are correct in doing the addition or deduction for the radius when making your first mark on the conduit. Same with the take up amount being lost when making offsets. You don't measure and then go back and add or deduct. Also, I just have to add that the corner having no studs is a joke. How often does that happen? LOL

[@mcarroll598]

Short 90s, short pieces and couplings. Piped a lot in studs over the years.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@robmurray5784]

Stud strength: Weren't 2x4 studs fine, strength-wise? We jumped to 2x6 walls for 'new' (around 1990-ish?) insulation codes.

[@geraldstephens8791]

Despite his holes being closer to the edge, the first guy gets my nod for the better job.

[@SparkyChannel]

I like that he made a box offset going into the sub-panel too.

[@rtp4919]

If the conduit enters in direct alignment with the the panel and/or the junction box why make the offset? Also, without the offset there is less drag (friction) when feeding the conductors.

[@SparkyChannel]

@@rtp4919 Thanks!

[@Bluesman57]

@@rtp4919 I agree as well, the 90 coming down the wall ls crooked as well.

[@garydudgeon]

Impressive Sparky.

[@SparkyChannel]

I agree!

[@mauroaparicio1855]

great job

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@KetterHomeImprovements]

Sparky, Thanks for another great video. I would like to see nail plates on the studs in Gregs installation. As far as the damage to the first stud, likely I would pass this unless the damage also occurred on one of the adjacent studs then I would like to see some strengthening of the damaged stud. Obviousley in the center of the stud is best but as you can see getting the conduit into the wall cavity becomes very difficult and somewhat tricky.

[@SparkyChannel]

Well said, thanks!

[@TwilightxKnight13]

If the damage to the stud was going to affect the skin (drywall, etc) the builder should require the electrician replace the stud long before the inspector gets a look at it anyway

[@Zatcro]

As far as the nec requirements go, they both did it correctly. The AHJ has the final say. 90-4 other wise known as the god clause! Me personally have never agreed that pcv pipes don't require nail plates. Emt is questionable. I put them on if it close to the edge, cheap insurance IMO. As far as the install goes, I would of run up and back down.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Donald!

[@obsoleteprofessor2034]

That "d-oing" of emt hitting the floor brings back memories

[@SparkyChannel]

Yep, I know what you mean.

[@kenbrown2808]

it's how you knock the doglegs out of it.

[@davenag957]

@@kenbrown2808 After 40 years my ears ring the constant sound thin wall hitting the floor! Doc says it's tinnitus, but I'm arguing with him!

[@kenbrown2808]

@@davenag957 I've had tinnitus developing for about 20 years. the takeaway if the youth are reading this: hearing protection saves hearing.

[@davenag957]

@@kenbrown2808 Unfortunately for me, ear plugs and other forms of hearing protection give me vertigo.

[@charlesviner1565]

👍Thanks for the video

[@SparkyChannel]

No problem, thanks Charles!

[@libertarian1637]

Inspectors can be a wild card; I’ve had them say things were wrong only to correct it and have a different inspector contradict the correction. We’ve gotten tot the point of having laminated quick reference papers for specific code sections that come up frequently; though ultimately the inspector has the final say as I doubt anyone is looking to go to court to prove they’re correct which is what it would take with out municipal inspectors. I personally prefer notch and set with protection plates for everything; though this is an absolute no-go with I-Ben style manufactured floor joists. I always find it funny that electricians and plumbers can be the ones having to fix construction deficits and outside of a few places that isn’t that big of an issue; we’re things really suck is the municipalities that force a carpenter to fix a simple issue, I’m talking about NYC which is about the worst place in the world to be an electrician.

[@SparkyChannel]

I was talking to Raul, the inspector in the video, off camera and he mentioned that inspectors in different areas can really vary in their opinion. The laminated quick cards are a great tip!

[@libertarian1637]

@@SparkyChannel: I also keep the NEC on my phone though the tablet is better for reading it as my eyes have gotten older. The cards are a great help as they supply the info and code section so the inspector can check, some even have pictures on them. We printed these up years ago as fast references and they’ve just expanded ever since; they save time for things like conduit and box fill and ampacity calculations. We work in multiple municipalities, one of which, actually has “enhanced procedures and standards” which while some are good is a pain so we keep a sheet just of their special requirements. I used to work in NYC and upstate is a breeze for the most part but every now and then you have issues; the whole idea of the NEC is a standardized set of standards but when each inspector can interpret things differently you can have a tough time of it. It also doesn’t help that depending on the municipality the year you’re in can change with some still running off the 2008 NEC though we view minimum code as just that and have been doing things above and beyond for a long time; hell we’ve installed whole home surge protectors on all of our load centers for nearly 2 decades, they just became an NEC standard in 2020.

[@SparkyChannel]

@@libertarian1637 Fantastic. I can tell that you take a lot of pride in your work!

[@garthmcgibbon4285]

Putting a slight bend in the conduit makes putting it in the stud so much easier! The conduit can be straightened out with that special tool once installed

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks for the tip!

[@LyinKamala]

What special tool?

[@R900DZ]

Special tool = elbow grease?

[@gregorysampson8759]

Nail plates required however the first guy is smart, only needs nail plates on the one side. I could run a screw right through that emt. Guy no 2 was kinda a hack. 100x better than me though haha.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks

[@mikieboyblue]

The second electrician that used three pieces in order to be be able to run through the middle was a good demonstration of the challenge of inserting in tight locations. I've done the same when plumbing where you can only fit so long of a run given the angles at play. I would imagine the split stud could be repaired with a Simpson brace over the split and around the hole. Who scored higher in that challenge?

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, Simpson stong-ties can do wonders. See my video: IDEAL National Championship 2022 Pro Semi-Final EV Charger and Multi-wire Branch Circuits: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJfahYptbtapo9E at 31:57 to see who advanced to the finals.

[@mikieboyblue]

@@SparkyChannel awesome thank you for sharing your insights from the competition. I enjoy your code related videos.

[@SparkyChannel]

@@mikieboyblue My pleasure!

[@markbest4230]

It is the responsibility of the contractor and his subordinates to make the inspectors job as easy as possible by knowing the code applications for your project. I use nail guards where required by code and use the code to verify when not needed!

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Mark!

[@dr.j4032]

It does not matter what the code says if the inspector says it needs plates you put plates. Don't argue with inspectors So now we are responsible for the quality of the lumber used also ?

[@SparkyChannel]

I agree. Arguing with inspectors is only for large items. Nail plates are no problem.

[@zacko1755]

That's why it's always good to have the code book with you and the inspectors info. So you can report them to the state for not knowing the correct codes

[@SparkyChannel]

@@GH-mb4kd GH, exactly. Respectful dialogue is the way to go. But have the code book with you!

[@kenthaslem7613]

I get really frustrated with the doctrine passed along that an inspector is the AHJ, they are in fact not. They are an enforcement officer. Just as a police officer is not the legislator. Now this isn’t a reason to not respect their judgment and try to work with them because they can be a huge asset and in my experience have knowledge that is correct, but I have seen cases where they were blatantly wrong and with respectful dialogue everyone could be heard and the truth discovered. But if not, there are steps above them and it ultimately would include an elected official which is how any of these people get their “authority”. In my case a discussion with a county commissioner would have been the next step. This is in no way a call to be disrespectful to a building official, but they aren’t infallible and can be asked to provide proof of any claims made. Final note, don’t go to war over a nail plate just to make an enemy who has the interest of the customer in mind. All members of the trade brotherhood should work together.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

@@zacko1755 That doesn't work very well in Illinois since we do not have a state recognized license. Each municipality decides what licensing they will accept and what code to enforce (or not). We don't even use the national plumbing code. I believe we are the only state that writes its own plumbing code set

[@ThisIsNotAVideo]

Homeowner here. I just did my kitchen in EMT because I was curious what it would take vs non-metallic wire. Also it'll be easier to add a circuit. My observations: 1) Cutting 14.5" pieces allowed me to center the conduit and use tight holes (.75" holes for 1/2" EMT). I imagine chicago electricians buy precut pieces like this or make them in bulk during downtime? 2) I went into the sides of boxes. I'm not sure if this is how pros do it or if they 90 and go in through the bottom or top. It made adjustment of the height difficult... my holes were not perfect with the laser level so sone boxes are 1/4" off level. 4) Also, its difficult to secure a box to a stud and also enter the box through the side with conduit that runs through that stud. 5) I used 4" steel boxes. They are annoying to screw directly to studs because the mud ring is bigger than the box face. I used a lot of 4" boxes with a side mounting plate to solve that problem for end-of-run boxes. 5) To get around a corner, I went through the crawlspace with a U bend. 6) something not covered here is what support is necessary for conduit run in the wall, especially when there are many couplings. I'll check NEC for that. 7) I think 1/2 EMT can fit 4 circuits (12 AWG THHN is rated at 30 amps@90 degrees C which gets derated to 21 amps based on 8 current carrying conductors in one raceway). Normally I run 3/4 EMT, but it seems unnecessary for branch circuits where derating is the limiting factor. 1/2 is so much easier and requires less impact on the structure (smaller holes). 8) bending conduit is cool and all, but I wish there was a machine that could do it for me. Kinda hard on the body and hard to do precisely (esp offsets) for a novice. It was slow for me vs NM, but I would do it again, at least for the kitchen which has so many different circuits.

[@pld8993]

Some answer to your inquiries. Nobody buys precut EMT, even back in the day before battery tools when we all used hacksaws. To do a 90 in a corner we use a short radius bender, made by Garvin. Looks kind of like an old school hickey. When sharing neutrals you can run 6 circuits (9 #12s) in 1/2" EMT. The bored holes are considered support for EMT; a 1/2" drive strap every 10' covers the secured requirement. The number or locations of couplings has no effect on the securing and supporting requirements. Going into/out of the top of box with a 90 is usually easier then going into the side of the box.

[@cumminspower]

Support can be achieved via Florida Bobs

[@pld8993]

@@cumminspower Waste of money. The bored hole is the support. Florida bobs are best for steel framing so the conduit doesn't rest loosely in the holes and rattle.

[@markat9576]

The boxes are best supported by using a box bracket like a Caddy RBS16 or RBS24 depending on the spacing of the wall studs.

[@drwhoeric]

If the opposite wall is an exterior wall, I would have run the EMT from the exterior sheathing thru center bored holes in the studs. A 3/4 inch hole in the exterior sheathing is easy to patch. Quicker and easier.

[@SparkyChannel]

Interesting, thanks!

[@jamesrockford6700]

I notch out the stud an 1/2 " and off set the conduit at the J Box and then use stud plates

[@SparkyChannel]

Interesting, thanks!

[@R900DZ]

Way more efficient, and you don’t need to destroy so much stud. Not sure why they’re drilling holes. Notches with plates on top seems better in so many ways.

[@fernandoprieto2865]

Great play by play. They sell a bender that makes box offset only.

[@dawebslave3571]

Not an electrician, I would pre-bend a little bit of the straight portion of the EMT before inserting, so the holes can be located in the middle of the stud. Half way inserting the EMT, I would use the bending tool to un-bend the inserted portion of the EMT. Split the pipe in two pieces does not seem to be as clean. Not sure making a second drill attempt above the hole does any help.

[@SparkyChannel]

I had never seen a second drill attempt above the hole. That was a new one for me. Thanks for the tip!

[@TwilightxKnight13]

You would waste a lot of time installing conduit. Electrician work,especially residential is often a matter of production. Remember, labor is your most costly expense. It is often more cost effective to spend a little more on material if it will save on labor costs. You can have your cheapest apprentice cut a bundle of short pieces of conduit roughly 30-32" long while the journeyman is marking all the bore locations in the studs. Then the AP can run around ahead of the JW boring holes those holes as he is installing all the conduit with couplings, stopping only to make a few customer bends (offsets, 90s, etc) as need to complete the runs. You use more couplings, but you don't have to fight getting the conduit in the studs. Nice, fast conveyor belt system.

[@nickhilts2731]

What are the T-shaped handles on the end of their benders? I’ve never seen those.

[@SparkyChannel]

They are items made by IDEAL to protect floors and keep the bender from sliding around. Some like them and some don't.

[@nickhilts2731]

@@SparkyChannel thanks!!

[@ed6837]

I think PVC and other plastic conduit should be protected. Rigid steel shouldn't need a nail plate regardless of distance from the edge or should intermediate or EMT. The distance from the edge is a building department issue not an electrical issue

[@SparkyChannel]

I was surprised to see the rigid PVC on that list too.

[@kenbrown2808]

@@SparkyChannel yeah, screws and nails go right through PVC.

[@illestofdemall13]

EMT isn't rigid steel though (RMC). EMT is thin walled and fairly soft. But I could see why there would be an exception.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

I agree in theory that it is a building issue, not an electrician issue, but at the end of the day WE are the ones who bore that hole, not the framers. If you want us not to be responsible for the position of bore holes, then you need to have a framer follow you around and drill the holes so they maintain building standards. That way if a hole is in the wrong place, or it damages a stud, they have to fix it, not you. Does not sound productive imo

[@kenbrown2808]

@@TwilightxKnight13 electricians should be aware of how their drilling choices affect the building structure. but at the same time, it will be the framing inspector, not the electrical inspector, who makes the final ruling on a compromised piece of framing.

[@randymack2222]

The first installer didn't need 3 pieces because of how close his holes were to the edge of the stud! If he was centered he also would have used 3 pieces, or ended up with unintended bends to the conduit. The real test would be to run conduit through floor joists!

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@johncasor9698]

so the first guy is now a 4th winner of $40.000 correct because he cuts corners which is okay by code and is showing you how to save time ??????

[@bchrisl1491]

A standard 2X4 is 89mm wide. If holes can’t be bored within 32mm of either edge. That leaves only 25mm in the middle on the stud where the hole can be bored. This is just barely one inch. That said, it is going to be almost impossible to work in a 3/4 EMT in a 1 inch bore if you are trying to adhere to 309.4 A 1, unless you drilling in from an outside corner of the wall and drill each hole within a 1/16” of clearance and perfectly square along a straight line. So, with 2X4 studs,I would go straight up to run 3/4. I’d leave the horizontal runs to 1/2 inch EMT.

[@D2O2]

Technically, 25mm is less than one inch. You will have exactly 25.4 mm if you do the math and don't round. Better yet, don't change unit systems and it becomes a lot easier.

[@bchrisl1491]

@@D2O2 Two reasons I used SI units. One, the code paragraph called it out in whole SI units, and two, a millimeter is a smaller unit of measure than one sixteenth inch and slightly more precise. I guess “just barely one inch” is not as descriptive as 1 1/127”, not rounding. It is still true to say that it is going to be very difficult to run 3/4 EMT through a 2X4 petition and still adhere to code section 309.4 A1. Since the outside diameter of 3/4 EMT is specified as .922” and .984251968504” drill bits are hard to find.

[@D2O2]

@@bchrisl1491 The code also stated Imperial/US units. A millimeter may be smaller than 1/16 of an inch, but not smaller than 1/32 of an inch. 1 inch is 25.4 mm, not 25 mm. A 2x4 is nominally 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches. 3 1/2 inches is 88.9 mm. Subtract 2 1/2 inches (63.5 mm) from 3 1/2 inches (88.9 mm) and you are left with 1 inch (25.4 mm) to work with. 1 inch (25.4 mm) drill bits can be found easily. 3/4" (19.05 mm) EMT with and O.D. of 0.922" (23.4188 mm) is smaller than 1" (25.4 mm) and will pass through the 1" (25.4 mm) hole. It is possible to place 3/4 EMT in a 2x4 partition wall, just not easily without several joints.

[@bchrisl1491]

@@D2O2 I said it would be difficult, as the clearance is very small and hand drilling a string of holes that accurately requires a great deal of skill. Difficult, not impossible, but in practice I think working to a tolerance of 1/32” with hand tools is not practical without the use of a jig or other device to facilitate such accuracy. Away I say, for 3/4 EMT with compliance to 309.4 A1, drill one code approved sized hole in the top plate and run overhead where the joists are big enough to allow holes sized large enough for hand held tool drilling tolerances.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Blah, blah, blah. The simplest solution is don't guess. Just ask the inspector before you install if they will require nailing plates and under what circumstances. Then, regardless of the code and the math minutia, you will pass inspection which at the end of the day is what we need to do to move along.

[@Jason-fg4jr]

The NEC is the bare minimum you have to do to pass inspection ... we are allowed to go above and beyond the NEC and in my almost 30 years I practice going above... I nail plate the crap out of everything questionable

[@SparkyChannel]

Good man!

[@Jason-fg4jr]

@@SparkyChannel the old school guys that learned me were always would you feel safe with your family living or shopping or working with that ½ass excuse for full in the blank... and over the years all apprentice I've learned them the same way just with out throwing tools at them for handing me the wrong tool but made me learn fast

[@jobaecker9752]

Wouldn't this be an ideal location to use flexible metal conduit, or is that not code? You would certainly be able to drill a smaller hole. On another note, I'm going to listen to Yes's version of "Close to the Edge" now.

[@SparkyChannel]

LOL! Yes, type MC cable would be great in this situation. Unless your locality insists on EMT.

[@michigan_616]

So, if I am understanding this content correctly (NEC Code) you only need to run EMT (or similar) when going through studs but not necessary when dropping straight down in between studs?

[@ronnietruman7296]

There is also a section that refers to strapping. If you can’t maintain 1 1/4 along the studs you also need protection.

[@rjadventure15]

The first one was clean, the 2nd one was struggling putting emt in the holes and then he cut it

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@johncasor9698]

yes we all witness this .... but thank you so much for your Superior observation...

[@bg5624]

The 2nd one was bad emt was not level & no box offset

[@skyemac8]

If you see metal studs they are punched centre or already has a centre hole for studs. For wood studs it should be as close to centre as possible too.😅

[@SparkyChannel]

That would be my preference as well.

[@kenbrown2808]

I had to bypass a run of EMT because the framers missed the stud and nailed the shearwall to the EMT. now I nailplate EMT and PVC. as for the stud - I wouldn't call for replacement of a single stud that wasn't compromised worse than that, unless it was a structure that was engineered to minimums.

[@donl1410]

I doubt if a nail plate would stop a nail from a nail gun. In fact, I have a picture of a sheetrock screw drilled through a nail plate. Agreed. I've just nailed the splits on a studs like that.

[@kenbrown2808]

@@donl1410 I've driven sheetrock screws through thinwall steel box tube. I've also seen gun nails driven through nailplates, but it's still better than nothing.

[@SparkyChannel]

I'm thinking that the correct Simpson Strong-Tie wood connector would repair that stud quite well.

[@SparkyChannel]

Hi Don! I've seen nails from a nail gun do a U turn and come right back at people when they hit something hard like a nail plate. That would be if it was nailed at a bit of an angle though. If nailed straight-on I think the nail would go right through the nail plate.

[@SparkyChannel]

Don't you guys think it's odd that rigid PVC is exempt from nail plates now?

[@sunday9373]

Hi Sparky (Bill), apologies for commenting off-topic of this video. Wasn't sure how/where to ask this question: can a dimmer be used in a 4-way switch ckt.? If yes, how should that be done? Sincere thanks!! I searched the internet, with no success, before bringing the question to you.

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, absolutely. You would use digital dimmers marked "multi-location". They work as 3-way or 4-way dimmers.

[@sunday9373]

@@SparkyChannel Thank you, Bill!! Would it matter where, in the circuit, I should place the dimmer? Does it have to be in the switch immediately before the load or in the "first" line switch coming from the panel? Appreciate your quick reply, sir!!! 👏👏👍👍

[@steveloux4709]

@@sunday9373 I can tell you that for Lutron, the location of the main dimmer (as opposed to one or more companion dimmers) must be specifically located per Lutron's instruction sheet. I recall the main dimmer is located as the last device in the switch series. In other words, it's the device location where the common terminal connects to the load.

[@patrickgatons]

You can use a regular three way dimmer at either beginning or end 3 way switch locations, just not where the 4 way goes.

[@eggplant2369]

So, according to NEC 300.4(A)(1) you would have to put a nail plate on the exterior-facing edge of the stud if you bored a hole in it that was less than 1 1/4 in. from the exterior-facing edge?

[@pld8993]

Not with EMT. Look at Exception1in 300.4(A)(1).

[@mattolson7037]

You’d think they could come up with a better competition than this that actually applies to the real world. You would never do this install in the field unless you live in Chicago

[@SparkyChannel]

I understand your point.

[@sethtaylor5938]

Or NYC. NMC is forbidden in NYC. There can only use flex metal, MC, liquid Tite (tm) etc. for short jumpers to equipment, fixtures etc. Everything else is EMT or Rigid galv / aluminum pipe.

[@cupdejello]

⁠@@sethtaylor5938We us BX(AC) cable in NYC for most installations commercial and residential. Romex is allowed in pure residential buildings with no more than 2 apartments and a maximum building height of 3 stories. MC cable is used in some commercial applications but mostly BX is used. Medical installations use HCF which is AC cable with an additional insulated ground conductor.

[@jimpossidente5004]

I don't like having large holes in my wall studs.

[@SparkyChannel]

Agreed.

[@mateuszs7666]

I thought mc will work lol who runs emit in studs?

[@arazusaysbah6784]

Chicago doesn't allow MC. It has to be EMT or better.

[@mateuszs7666]

@@arazusaysbah6784 Chicago administration needs to go

[@jolyonwelsh9834]

I would never live in Chicago even if you paid me to.

[@sethtaylor5938]

NYC too. Flex and liquid Tite(tm) only for short drops to fixtures and equipment.

[@funnyharleyman]

@@jolyonwelsh9834It’s not a matter of living in Chicago, it’s a matter of the project your working on being in Chicago. The majority of projects we did were commercial and there’s no skipping on using piping. The city requires it, inspectors look for it so it’s out of the company’s hands that wish to do work there. I’m retired now and when I work on friends houses, I always use pipe. The huge advantage is that you can pull more wire to add more circuits (if your pipe size allows to do so) or change layouts say in a drop ceiling or even drywall. I’ve been bending pipe for over 60 years and will continue to do so.

[@ehudgavron9086]

You asked "Would you" and yes I would. You asked about arguing with the inspector, and if it's just one wall no, but I'm not going to redo an entire floor if the code doesn't require it, but you didn't ask about the code. It clearly excludes EMT from the requirements... Overall answer: have a copy of the **current** code and discuss with the inspector. If the work is up to code he should approve it. Others wrote we now use electric screwdrivers -- so what? You can tear into EMT any number of ways. The question is not "could you" but rather "what does the code require when installing EMT" and if you want to discuss safety also (always a consideration) "What are the odds someone will punch through EMT with a drill bit that good and not also punch through 1/16? Zero.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@randymack2222]

Also the 1/2 EMT is in a bore larger than it's diameter! A fastener will deflect off the rounded surface of the conduit, and the oversized holes allow the conduit to push (deflect) further reducing the chance of puncture.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

You would redo that entire floor if the AHJ told you to. The code is a guideline. It is not a law such that you can take the inspector to "electrician court" and have a judge over-turn them. In most cases, you just do what they want and move on. The key is learning what pet peeves your inspector has and adhering to them so you don't have to do rework. And if you are a tradesman, you are getting paid by the hour anyway, so go redo that entire floor and let the contractor argue with the inspector

[@isaackvasager9957]

@@TwilightxKnight13 Any inspector that thinks their word is more important or better than the NEC needs to get the &^%* out of the inspection business. They are trash humans that are wasting everyone else's time just to feed their pathetic ego.

[@RJ-ej1nr]

If you have a great answer for EMT across a stud wall, please share. My common in real life answers are come from above or below or use a different wiring method, but to be fair those are dodging the question. With a 1 1/4" hole in the middle, it's difficult to feed it through without it bending (which was evidenced in the video). Short pieces and fittings work for one-offs. One of the tricks coming up (or down) the stud is the box offset done with a single bend. The EMT is in the middle of the stud, but the box hole is close the wall edge. The offset goes both out and to the side. Looks way pretty when done right.

[@SparkyChannel]

NIce! If you were involved in building a house, you could actually put the horizontal emts in place while building the walls. It would take some extra planning, but you could get the emt right in the middle of the studs. Just a thought.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

To be fair, the only people who appreciate the "pretty" of conduit is the electrician, because usually before anyone else gets to see it, the drywall is up and no one cares what it looked like. Industrial (and sometimes commercial) is where you get to show off your bending skills with large racks of parallel conduit flowing over obstacles and changing direction like a school of fish.

[@RJ-ej1nr]

@@TwilightxKnight13 Sadly, you are correct the art goes minimally admired. The real benefit though is only having do one set of offset bends.

[@FixthisCD]

do they frown against bx or ac use in wood 2x4s?

[@SparkyChannel]

Bx and type mc cable are fine in 2x4 studs.

[@mtgibbs]

In Chicago, you need to use EMT (with some exceptions).

[@aetherguy881]

Always as close to Center as possible and when questionable I throw in an airplane, it doesn't hurt to add a couple nail plates every so often, you never know when someone is going to throw a large screw into the stud

[@aetherguy881]

Code is a minimum.

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, the code is a minimum.

[@carlodonnell146]

yes a nail plate should be installed, plus it would also put back some of the strength of the broken stud if it is long enough.

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent point, thanks!

[@TwilightxKnight13]

meh. typical nailing plates do not add any strength. They barely stick to the stud with their small twisted spike.

[@johnc6343]

Watching Greg against the rest isnt fair Bill! He makes everyone look like an apprentice 🤣

[@SparkyChannel]

True, isn't it?

[@mastersparkyful]

No load bearing wall has an inside corner like that. Total BS.phase conductors are not identified. The funny thing about notchplates is when we passed inspection the rockers would go through and peel off the plates prior to rocking the interior.

[@SparkyChannel]

Darn rockers.

[@jonrosslopez]

AHJ has the last say yea?

[@SparkyChannel]

He or she sure does have the last say! And the interpretations will vary from state to state too.

[@capefearcapt4679]

The studs were drilled to close to the stud edge for the conduit. That would be a violation here in NC, (R602.6: Drilling and notching of studs).

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@GS-lh2nx]

Honestly that was a tough job. I am amazed either one could do it and though the electrical inspector might pass it I wonder about the building inspector.

[@SparkyChannel]

Ah, now that is a great point. You see, I am a licensed electrical contractor but I'm also a licensed general contractor. That gives me a viewpoint more like what you have just laid out. I would be equally concerned about the building inspector and the over-all strength of the wall as just what the electrical inspector says.

[@GS-lh2nx]

@@SparkyChannel Still, its impressive for those guys who were able to do it. Some real talent and skills are involved and perhaps thats what IDEAL was really trying to test.

[@SparkyChannel]

@@GS-lh2nx Yes, absolutely!

[@Fishingtuts]

Using 1 1/4 drywall screws wont touch the EMT if its 1 1/2 in from the 2x 4 edge

[@pld8993]

Neither will 1 5/8 screws, the drywall is at least 1/2" thick.

[@miqueaspromontorio3]

What happens to all that wood after the competition?

[@SparkyChannel]

They give some of it to schools.

[@Dynamis623623]

What is this some sort of Electrical Installation competition?? As I was typing this I heard people chearing then someone announced "30 minutes left". So I'm gonna guess it is, but what exactly is this?

[@willschultz5452]

I'm sure there must be alot of people running romex and not bothering to get permits so they won't have to use conduit 🤷‍♂️. In my area nobody gets permits for anything unless code enforcement knows you are working on a project. Usually if its inside of a building they never know what you are doing! Alot of people doing stuff they have no clue what they are doing. Wiring a stove using 10-2 Romex with 50 amp breaker etc.🙄

[@osajohnson1957]

10-2 with 30 amp?

[@willschultz5452]

@@osajohnson1957 Yes 30 would be the correct breaker, not 50

[@timothyrients1685]

Based on exception #1, I don't think that protection is required for EMT less than 1 1/4" from the edge of the stud.

[@SparkyChannel]

I agree. I think nail plates are a good idea though.

[@thedude5040]

The nail plates are absolutly needed. Far too many people destroy the stud or drill them out to the point the stud the is structurally worthless. The next NEC revision needs to have limits as to how close holes can be and or max drill size from center of stud

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@gregchambers6100]

I totally agree. If in doubt, if it's close, it something could happen, move up to the higher standard.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Technically speaking, the building code already has rules for drilling structural members. The NEC does not have to define that because it is already defined. Maybe they could add those rules as additional reference, but your builder should cross-educate the trades working for them in order to prevent problems. If holes need to be drilled in structural members, then either the framers need to do it, or they need to make sure the electricians and plumbers know the rules. Else, they will be spending a lot of time going back and adding support plates around all the penetrations.

[@capefearcapt4679]

Nail plates do nothing for the structural integrity of the stud member. Stud shoes on the other hand do and would be an approved method to "fix" a damaged stud.

[@ctbt1832]

The second guy had problems because he put his holes in the center of the stud. If anything his first two studs that he would’ve started with holes should’ve been closer to the edge.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@RH17]

Per IRC602.6 (NOTCHING AND BORING) bored holes min 5/8" from face of stud, boring 40% max in bearing walls (2 successive doubled bearing studs 60% OK) and 60% in nonbearing. Also, bearing walls could be notched not to exceed 25% of stud depth and 40% notch in nonbearing walls permitted. Per NEC, why would anyone run EMT in a typical residential wood frame building?? Romex is permitted to be installed in wood frame structures up to 4 stories high (Construction Type IV & V) unless a different wiring methid is designed for the purpose of extra expense or specifically prohibited by a local ordinance.

[@walterbordett2023]

A few cities, notably Chicago, do not allow NM at all.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks for the IRC602.6. Good information. In Chicagoland NM cable is not permitted.

[@CarlosOrtiz-kg4vg]

Maybe there should be a rule as to how long the conduit can be cut to fit in the studs since we know they are 16 inch on center.

[@SparkyChannel]

Perhaps in 2026....

[@UnlikelyToRemember]

could have saved a lot of time and holes by going up!

[@SparkyChannel]

Yes, that's true.

[@RonSch123]

Exactly what I was thinking. Maybe the competition said it had to be done that way, but not how I would have done it. Also, the corner studs were conveniently left out which never happens in the real world. (I'm in conduit land so this is all I do)

[@normanvictor2561]

So much easier to run mc or bx than emt inside wall. Inspector would be WRONG to not allow armor cable inside wood stud wall. We run miles of emt in industrial buildings and always have large work tables, so much easier than working on floor to check 90s and measure kicks, offsets saddles Etc and make adjustments

[@SparkyChannel]

Good tips, thanks!

[@TwilightxKnight13]

There is wrong and there is wrong. Even when the AHJ is technically wrong by code standards, if they say do it [this way], then you do what they said. Too often electricians spend a lot of time and effort trying to fight their inspector when life is much easier when you just do what they want in the first place and move on. I know you're right and you know you're right, but that doesn't matter at the end of the day

[@calculator1841]

@@TwilightxKnight13 Last sentence is great.

[@markbest4230]

And that second mechanic was struggling!!!

[@SparkyChannel]

Yep.

[@MrWaalkman]

I remember those days. No fun at all. Makes it much easier for them not having the panel recessed.

[@SparkyChannel]

Good point!

[@MrWaalkman]

@@SparkyChannel I used to have a 1/2" short radius bender that we would use for the interior corners. Even then it was quite the PITA. The AHJ would look the other way and let us judiciously use it when absolutely necessary. I still have the rest of my benders, you never know when a neighbor is going to want a circuit run. Or the frame of a greenhouse made. :)

[@SparkyChannel]

@@MrWaalkman Nice!

[@ctbt1832]

Greg offset bend are off. No straight

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks.

[@4gizzle85]

Anyone else in real life would never kick conduit up that high in a framed wall. They’d go straight no kick .. and nails go right through emt on occasion so nail plate those regardless if your gonna be less than 1 1/4” from face of stud…

[@dougbloom3672]

Why not mc????

[@SparkyChannel]

EMT was called for on the plans.

[@deadmanswife3625]

I would argue with the inspector about placing the hole in the center or adding the steel plate about as much as I would argue with my father. It's not going to happen you have to have your standards up there. End of sentence

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Wendy!

[@robertstonebreaker8394]

Never use your hand as a hammer the wall or conduit will always win .

[@SparkyChannel]

I hear that. My hand is too important for a job like that!

[@waytospergtherebro]

That hole is absurd.

[@SparkyChannel]

What hole?

[@jorgehuizarsr8519]

Got any new toys ?

[@SparkyChannel]

Not lately. I did buy a new lens for my camera though. It's a Lumix Vario 12-60 MM.

[@RH17]

AHJ can only enforce min code (and adopted local ordinances) but NEVER personal installation methods or opinions!

[@SparkyChannel]

It's a good thing too.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

LoL, good luck with that. You might find yourself spending lot of downtime if you think you know better than your inspector.

[@RH17]

@@TwilightxKnight13if you are humble enough you might just learn a thing or two... I don't just think that, I know that ... because I am a building inspector...know your code, lol

[@philipneri9482]

I hate flake board

[@SparkyChannel]

I understand.

[@philipneri9482]

Wood flakes and glue..what the heck is that?

[@dvrn86]

American electrical seems so backwards and labour intensive. Steel conduit in wooden studs?

[@nickhilts2731]

That’s not normal for all of us 😅

[@SparkyChannel]

That's mainly done in certain areas of the US.

[@dvrn86]

@@SparkyChannel Reasoning? I worked for many years in Canada so worked to CEC standards.

[@jolyonwelsh9834]

It's a puritanical Anglo-Saxon mentality. To make things more complicated.

[@dvrn86]

@@jolyonwelsh9834 I assure you that in England it's nowhere near that complicated. Also referring to the US as Anglo saxon is kind of funny.

[@slant757]

I don't think these guys are very impressive. 🤭 I live in NYC.... I've actually did some dare devil bends from a ATS to a sprinkler pump system.... 15' from pump unit.... I've put 4 bends on 1 length of 3/4" EMT pipe..... close to source (but pretty) ... yet passable for accommodated wire size to flow easily through. 👍

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Tony.

[@michaelstewart3315]

He should’ve just cut that single piece of emt into 2 piece and stud would’ve been fine.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@RonSch123]

Or removed the box, drilled a couple more holes to the left and slid the whole piece in from the very far left, then put the box back on.

[@geraldbennett7035]

conduit? Nothing but a crony union and contractor requirement.

[@SparkyChannel]

OK, all opinions allowed here.

[@gregwashenberger952]

Let's be more realistic.lets say it together ENT

[@SparkyChannel]

Electrical Metallic Tubing

[@koarivera9151]

Emt