Can Romex Be Run to a Garbage Disposal? (NEC 334.10) + How to Wire a Disposal

[@walterbordett2023]

Nice video, Sparky. If you control the disposer with a snap switch, don't cheap out on the switch. Especially if you have 1/2 or 3/4 HP disposer. Use a good specification grade switch. It will last forever. A cheapy will fail quickly switching that motor load.

[@SparkyChannel]

You know I'm a spec grade device fan. I don't use the cheap devices at all. Thanks Walter!

[@LTVoyager]

It is nice to see a KZbin channel that shows how to do things correctly. I watch many KZbin DIY channels and just cringe at how bad some of the advice is, even from many who claim to be professional electricians, plumbers or carpenters. There is one “plumber” who recommends you never need to drain sediment from your water heater or change the sacrificial anode. Maybe he sells water heaters on the side…

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much. I should do a video on water heater anodes. That is an electrical process going on in the tank.

[@LTVoyager]

@@SparkyChannel Absolutely. My water heater is 24 years old and going strong. Everyone says you can only get 10-15 years out of a water heater in my area. Well, if you never maintain your water heater, then that is probably about right.

[@wadefriesen6867]

Thanks for the thoughtful and informative video. I also have seen type NM used for appliance cords. I'd like to suggest a few articles as a defense for not using NM as an appliance cord in a 1 or 2-family dwelling. NEC 2020 - 422.16(B)(1) permits In-Sink Waste Disposers to be connected with a flexible cord. 334.10(A)(1) allows NM to be concealed or exposed. 334.15(A) requires NM to closely follow the surface of the building finish or of running boards when exposed. This would be the argument I would use to argue against NM as the wiring method for garbage disposal. Thanks, Bill for the educational electrical videos. I'll keep watching and learning.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much Wade!

[@garydudgeon]

Really good explanation Sparky...another great video.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much Gary!

[@JsRazza]

@ 9:31 That connector is commonly known as an "MC connector.“ However, It's also approved for NM (Romex) cable. Even SJ cord amongst others. It's basically a one size fits all kind of connector.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks, good info!

[@JsRazza]

​​​​​@@SparkyChannel You're welcome. But of course as always, check with the manufacturer's specifications. It should be listed right on the box. However, I do know Topaz lists NM as one of the accepted types.

[@mkidd8806]

Good video. To twist or not twist is a personal thing. If your not use to make up electrical when many times it stranded to solid the wago would benifit versus twist with wire nut requires a bit of experience! As for the mc being used as ground i still use the green or bare ground at fixture esp because theres big chance the mc isnt connected to ground back to source. Take care Bill.

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent points, thanks!

[@tedmcdonald3377]

Happy Saturday Bill, thanks for all the knowledge😎⚒️😎⚒️😎

[@SparkyChannel]

Happy Saturday!

[@michaelthompson7570]

Nice demo sparky,,,makes it come to life,,,thanks

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much Michael!

[@HRConsultant_Jeff]

Thanks Bill. When I was very young I owned a mobile home and I had to replace the disposal. I am not sure that the thin (flammable) walls of a mobile home built around 1970 would even allow for romex anywhere considering what you read to us. Fortunately, mine had a plug, but this is always good to know.

[@SparkyChannel]

Hi Jeff! Yes, you have to be careful with electrical in mobile homes as the aluminum shells are conductive.

[@KameraShy]

@@SparkyChannel I bet a lot of aluminum wiring was used in mobile homes of that era.

[@frankspliff7037]

Much easier to wire when not installed under sink.

[@SparkyChannel]

So much easier! I really don't enjoy working on my back under the sink. LOL!

[@johnmaranuk1842]

Very good video! As always. Keep on keeping on. Be safe out there

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks John! Yes, everyone stay safe.

[@wingman8447]

Good tutorial. Thanks

[@SparkyChannel]

Welcome!

[@Jason_Canada]

Excellent Question..ive always used ac90 or sheathed a section less then 2 ft

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@brianmcdermott2430]

Good info. Thank you, Sparky.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Brian!

[@yurimykhalchuk4466]

Благодарю сердечно! Очень доступно, благослови вас Господь!

[@steveloux4709]

It is more likely on an older home to encounter Type AC cable, rather than Type MC, where the corrugated armor, together with the aluminum bonding tape running its length, provide the equipment ground for the branch circuit - rather than the green dedicated conductor included in Type MC cable.

[@SparkyChannel]

That's true. Thanks Steve!

[@gordonegan3924]

You omitted the tug test on your wago connection.

[@SparkyChannel]

Good point. Thanks Gordon!

[@eugenepolan1750]

Sparky - Your middle name is "Safety", isn't it? I like that you covered both types of connections.

[@SparkyChannel]

Hi Eugene! I was motivated to make this video after seeing the photo a viewer sent me. Bad injuries can occur under the sink like that, especially with a possible leak or moisture.

[@71organicmusic9]

Sparky....I'd would also say it be good to provide gfci protection...on this appliance....and probably is NEC....required

[@ToGoMania19]

I greatly enjoy your attitude! Thank you!

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks so much! I try not to be harsh with criticism because a lot of times it's just someone who hasn't been shown how to wire properly. Then, after they've been shown how to do it properly, they'll do it that way from then on.

[@KingOfHockeyNow]

Great video. Question: Don’t you also need a switch to turn the disposal on and off? I have an older house without electrical under the kitchen sink, so I’m going to have to do a new installation starting from a junction box in the basement.

[@kenbrown2808]

there are disposals made to be used with a built in control, which would make an operation switch unnecessary, but you would still need to have a service disconnect. typically, in a situation like yours, I would run conduit inside the cabinet to a surface mounted 4" square junction box under the sink, and then conduit to another just inside the cabinet door, where it is convenient to reach in to the switch. in a few cases, where a tip out existed in the top of the cabinet, I was able to install the switch inside the tip out. it is also possible to get an air switch kit, which puts a plunger button in a hole in the sink, and the switch plugs into the receptacle, and the disposal plugs into the switch.

[@KingOfHockeyNow]

Thanks for that excellent (and fast) answer.

[@SparkyChannel]

Ken beat me to this question and gave an excellent answer.

[@mackellyman5642]

It would have been cool to see you plug in a circuit tester to the garbage disposal receptacle to verify if the correct breaker is in place...Possible multi-wire that gets missed by the best...

[@SparkyChannel]

Great idea, thanks!

[@HoosierRallyMaster]

Just for the sake of argument, and since you often do deep-dives into the NEC, I am going to say that the connector used (and supplied by Insinkerator) is rated for NM cable, but not rated for SPT or SJ cable. You need to use a rated cord relief. I know everyone uses the NM connector for this, and it is a thousand times safer than some of the nightmare pictures you showed.

[@SparkyChannel]

What connector would you suggest?

[@coreyfranco7060]

​@@SparkyChannelthe connector that comes with the cord

[@tedlahm5740]

Insinkerator Can not believe they do not provide a better condition for connection.

[@HoosierRallyMaster]

@@SparkyChannel I am thinking a strain relief or gland rated for the cord used (flat vs round - SPT vs SJ) (I tried posting some links but they are deleted)

[@onecrisde]

Can you make a hard-wired connection between a junction box and the disposal with UF-B cable?

[@scott_meyer]

The last couple of garbage disposals I have purchased came with a standard 3 prong power cord.

[@SparkyChannel]

I think that's a good idea.

[@Ryan-dj5ku]

Great video. Do you have a video on installing a receptacle for a garbage disposal. Say somebody currently has NM cable and needs to make it a receptacle so they can use a cord. Does it need to be AFCI and/or GFCI?

[@garbo8962]

Was told at continuing education classes that not even a licensed electrician is allowed to install a male plug onto a cord. Must use a listed cord set ! Prefer to hard wire garbage disposals. Having a plug & a receptacle under sinks that can leak water is a recipe for trouble. Always pre twist wires and tape wire nuts with quality made in USA tape. POS cheating communist china tape is not even good for taping a trash bag closed !

[@SparkyChannel]

Not yet. That would be a good topic though. Thanks!

[@LTVoyager]

I have to admit I am still not a Wago fan, but I guess for DIY folks they are more idiot-proof and the extra cost isn’t an issue if you only use a handful every year. I will stick with wire nuts as they are a fraction of the cost and I have seen several tests where they run cooler in operation so they are at least somewhat less resistive than Wago style connectors. It does take just a touch of skill to install them though.

[@chrisf9607]

Sounds good to each there own I made the switch to levernuts and am not going back for 14 and 12 guage and I have nothing against wire nuts I always pre twisted and tightend till wires twist up

[@LTVoyager]

@@chrisf9607 I never pretwist. It is completely unnecessary and just wastes time. I can install a wirenut as fast as most can install a Wago.

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks!

[@KameraShy]

I cannot imagine using anything other than Wago Lever Nuts to join solid and stranded, like light fixtures. Trying to join solid and stranded with wire nuts has always been difficult, messy and resulted in lousy connection, at least for me.

[@SK-qt1rm]

How far does the under sink outlet need to be from water source? Is it on the load side of GFCI outlet or CB?

[@JsRazza]

Actually GFCI isn't advisable under a sink.

[@ed6837]

what about romex in an unfinished basement? It's not protected by drywall

[@ricoludovici2825]

If it is behind or below the surface of the studs or joists, it is okay. If nailed to the face of studs or joists, it needs to be shielded with something like 1x2s nailed on either side of the wire[s for the length of the run].

[@LzysGraphics]

The section of NEC mentioned in the video does not disallow exposed Romex. Part 3 of that section is seperate from 1 and 2, in Single family dwellings Romex can be either concealed or exposed, if exposed it should not be installed where it could be subject to damage, and should run closely along surfaces.

[@thomaskreimer592]

This is off topic from the video but after watching I went to review the NM section and was wondering about 334.30(B) when it talks about a bushing or adapter to protect against abrasions where the NM exits conduit. Where can I find these? I have seen the plastic ones for threaded pipe. Would you use these everywhere even in "protected" areas?

[@SparkyChannel]

I'm not sure.

[@Eddy63]

Excellent demo Bill ... I took mine out completely because I didn't use it very much & it was more trouble than it was worth ... Thx

[@SparkyChannel]

I'm told that garbage disposals are illegal in parts of Europe so I would say that Europeans agree with you. I have a garbage disposal but rarely, if ever, use it. After all, I'm the guy who has to clear the drain if it gets clogged up. Thanks Eddy!

[@JosephVanWyck]

Thank you

[@SK-qt1rm]

I was replacing exterior lighting and the siding installers used Tyvek seal tape instead of wire nut. WTF.

[@SparkyChannel]

Oh no! SMH!

[@MrTooTechnical]

Awesome as usual

[@SparkyChannel]

Thank you so much 😀

[@jamesmacdonnell4085]

Hi Bill, is there a recommendation for torque inch-pounds when tightening wire clamp connectors into the box? I ask because I overnighted this clamp, it actually pierced the hot wire. When I turned on the circuit breaker it shorted out. I traced the short to the wire clamp. I replaced the wire and made sure the wire clamp was not too tight, everything was fine. So is there a recommended torque in inch pounds for this? Love your videos, thank you. Jim

[@t0cableguy]

Usually you tighten them until cable is snug in the connector. You do not have to tighten them until they are crushed. I have never seen a torque spec for NM connectors.

[@jamesmacdonnell4085]

T0cableguy, thank you for the advice. It was a dumb mistake I made, I’m glad there was no fire, just the short and tripped breaker.

[@josemancia3689]

I always use an outlet controlled by the switch on a dedicated circuit 15 amp inspection: pass always

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent!

[@donaldhoudek2889]

Great Video!

[@SparkyChannel]

Thanks Donald!

[@alexrosenberg_tube]

If you can afford to, avoid the Badger models. They aren't made out of stainless steel like the higher-end models and thus rust and fail prematurely. You can tell they're to be avoided because they come in "contractor packs."

[@SparkyChannel]

Excellent advice, thanks!

[@SixTwoHemi]

I'll share a serect with you buddy. Emerson (INSINKERATER) make all of the disposals. They're all the same just painted different and different stickers placed on the units.

[@alexrosenberg_tube]

@@SixTwoHemi Badger is an Insinkerator model. It's the low-end model. I'm suggesting to only go for their high-end model that's stainless steel. Replacing the low-end model every few years will cost more.

[@phamlam3720]

The Badger 1000 uses stainless steel.

[@ed6837]

I don't agree. While I think a cord connected disposal is best I see no reason NM can not be used. It has been used for disposals forever. NM is exposed in all basements and garages so it does not have to be behind sheet rock. It is also commonly used to feed electric hot water heaters for years without an issue

[@phamlam3720]

Just because that is how it has been done does not mean it was right. The rules change as a result of fire, injuries, and death. It does not take much effort to wire it properly. Don't be a hack.

[@kayakingphotos]

334.10(3) isn't the reason for not allowing NM cable to be used for the disposer pictured. "Other structures" are structures that are NOT Dwellings. AKA commercial and industrial buildings. Ryan Jackson did a long winded explanation of what "Multi-family dwellings" and "other structures" of "Types III, IV, and V construction" kzbin.infoel64aXhZ2Co?si=DVlwFUHU-N0nFsji&t=6538

[@TrevorSachko]

US electrical hardware never ceases to "amaze" me...

[@kenbrown2808]

oh, the jerry rigged disposals we have seen. it is technically legal to have a "hardwired" disposal, but it isn't worth the trouble to NOT upgrade to a proper cord connection when upgrading a disposal.

[@SparkyChannel]

yes, I wish that I would have taken photos of all the dangerous disposal hook-ups that I have seen over the years!

[@TomCee53]

You basically said that the body of the disposer is connected to neutral. That should not be true. If it were, there could be current leakage through the plumbing and a GFCI would trip.

[@SparkyChannel]

No, the ground is bonded to the body of the disposal. You can see at 6:48 that I connected the ground wire to the disposal body, not the neutral.

[@spikeklein2196]

Hi Bill. I think Tom was pointing out that you mentioned that if you mis-wired the thing, connecting the hot from the whiptail to the neutral of the disposal, then you’d be feeding voltage into the body of the disposal. he points out correctly that that would not be the case. But you obviously wired it correctly so perhaps just a misunderstanding or verbal flub.

[@letslockit]

It has to be ensinkHaha

[@SparkyChannel]

I do understand!

[@scott_meyer]

Ok, that's an obvious fail.

[@SparkyChannel]

LOL! And dangerous.

[@zecmo]

I've never installed a garbage disposal, but now I feel prepared 🦾

[@SparkyChannel]

Sounds good!