How to Set Exposure in Manual Mode | Master Your Craft

Shooting in manual mode is a great way to take control of your photos. Each component of the exposure triangle serves a practical and artistic purpose that affects the look of the final image. In this video, Pye walks through how to set your exposure in manual mode while prioritizing the artistic effects of the settings.
Time Stamps:
Intro: 0:00 - 0:47
Exposure Triangle: 0:48 - 1:09
Shutter Speed: 1:10 - 1:38
Aperture: 1:39 - 2:15
ISO: 2:16 - 2:32
Approaching the Scene: 2:33 - 5:39
Overview: 5:40 - 6:03
Outro: 6:04 - 6:25
Welcome to “Master Your Craft,” a photography educational series by SLR Lounge, exclusively on Adorama TV. From gear advice to in-depth instruction, our goal is to give you practical, real-world advice to help you master the craft of photography. Whether you’re a beginner just learning your camera, an amateur looking to become pro, or a professional seeking inspiration, this is the series you’ve been looking for to help you become a better photographer.
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✘ PRODUCTS USED:
Canon EOS R5:
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Canon RF 28-70mm f/2 L USM Lens:
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✘ PRODUCTION EQUIPMENT USED:
Canon EOS R6:
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Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Zoom Lens:
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DJI RSC 2 Gimbal Stabilizer:
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Rode Wireless GO II:
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SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO UHS-II Memory Card:
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING!

[@johnblunt1834]

I at one time had a friend who worked on the 'Thrust SSC car' (supersonic car). He was a very intelligent man, but he had this wonderful way of explaining simple ideas without judgment. You too have this talent. I really enjoy learning from your posts. Thanks! John UK.

[@csc-photo]

This is easily the best practical explanation of the exposure triangle I've ever seen. And all in 6 minutes. Awesome / thanks! And I feel like Sabrina is running off to Hawaii in every recent vid she's been in 😆

[@payamjirsa]

Haha, a few were filmed on the same day. So that's possible =)

[@dougwright1211]

Thank for the free education. I’ve learned so much in your (short) videos. You are truly a master.

[@geelws8880]

I agree! 😂 I fell like I would be paying THOUSANDS at school for this quality information.

[@graemeclarkson9552]

Thanks Pye useful info and simply presented for easy understanding from you again as in all your video,s

[@michaelmorrisphotography]

Big like, thank you

[@blackmamba3427]

Awesome video

[@echoauxgen]

In manual mode, Sony, you will see at the bottom center MM. It will go negative or positive as you select settings. I use Manual mode for doing Milky Ways so you start with SS based on your f/# wide open, Look at PhotoPills Spot Stars. Basically depending on your 1.camera (pixel separation and height etc) 2. Lens mm 3.Lens f/# 4. 500 rule is no more now NPF rule default or accurate determines SS you want to set. So first you will set f/#, second SS then adjust your ISO for a MM (metering mode) of 0.0 but for brightness and a 3/4 histogram you will find + 0.7. Now for panoramas you will do like a day pano, pan from side to side and look at MM adjust ISO for lowest number of up and down. And just for info you can capture the MW under parking lot lights, if the sky is dark, just use aperture mode or manual you will find just adjusting the ISO. Even adjusting the EV dial down to rid zebras just like daytime. With today's cameras with ISO Invariance just increasing exposure in post will make a dark image in the field bright in post and low noise (color) in shadows. One main thing about ISO at 100 may be noisier than 640, some cameras have a first step of noise correction so stay above that when adjusting ISO. Do not be shocked if you get daytime bright with stars not looking like what the eye sees/saw it is the long exposure. Lastly use camera NR it will reduce image noise, the reason everyone says turn off is because is they do not want to wait the time it took for the capture. To be honest most are using super wide open apertures that require SS's of 10s and faster, so what is 10s. Also I can do a 200 degree pano in less than 1 1/2 minutes adjusting to the next stepper point while in NR mode with a 10s capture of a 1.8 lens. You paid for the NR! Second the 10 or 20 captures at 10s that is more time and more time in post to mask out the noise. This advice is not for the ones doing time lapses or star trail, I have never done both just a stills person and I like to run and capture sometimes driving to 4 or 5 different places during a long sunset to sunrise night in May, June, July along the Atlantic coast or the Gulf coast or even a big lake. Also do not be afraid of the light now with daylight LED lights you have no color casts just real night colors with a softbox like lighting. If lucky you may also capture the colors of of the gases high up, green and magenta. Auto WB is ok but you can use a white half globe to cal. your camera WB, even for cityscapes.

[@silverdoggg]

Nice, I sometimes forget to pay attention to my histogram. But yes, this is my process and you can nail your exposure in manual sometimes in one shot by looking at your histogram and meter

[@richardewlliams9864]

Good video. Myself I use little to none leaning to the none side on editing, that being said I would use a fill flash. 70-year-old man shooting for 55 years.

[@montazownianr1]

Cool I say 😎

[@ronaldabadphoto]

what metering mode do you use?

[@sijilo]

👍🏻

[@streetlegal008]

Photographers shouldn't be afraid of raising iso. In modern cameras iso will not have any real-world detriment to image quality up to 1600 or even 3200. So photographers should always feel free to raise their iso when they want to raise their shutter speed or go for a smaller aperture.

[@Kav82a]

Its all about tripod or not. Without tripod ,the first thing to do is to adjust shutter speed to avoid hand shaking , then you adjust the aperture according to your liking and then you set the ISO in auto mode.If you are shooting under bright sunlight you start by adjusting the aperture first then shutter speed and then you set ISO 100 because there is enough light for minimun ISO.On the other hand, using a tripod allows more flexibility with the aperture because there is not stability issue.I mention the above for shooting just with a camera without speedlights or softboxes.

[@MagneticPortrait]

Hi, can you pls make a video on How to photograph Artwork like paintings/posters flat image in a studio/indoor, big or small. There is minimal to none pro videos about Artwork photography Should one move closer to the painting or should one use the zoom instead to get a sharper photo? What will be the ideal f nr? F4 to f8? Shall I use all the time ISO 100? Thanks so much

[@johnclay7644]

informative 6.5mins of setting exposure.

[@ajbid805]

Definitely could use an ATMOS ninja to record your screen for demos like these. But overall good video!

[@darrenleigh201]

This.

[@20no70]

hi? do you know how to change exposure on manual mode? im using canon powershot s110.

[@severgun]

there is no artistic side in ISO. You can add grain and ruin quality in post as much as you want.

[@rumporridge1]

Facts lol.

[@RoseGuest]

What metering mode please?

[@simonmaduxx6777]

As someone who shoots exclusivity on manual, here is a surefire way for you to get your process down packed. Put your camera on ISO 100 and 1/320. As for aperture I tend to start with two eight but maybe you're using a F4 lens. Whatever that is open it as wide as possible. Then go to an area that has a lot of activity whether it's people or whatever. Start looking for your shots. It may be somebody sitting down and maybe somebody moving, etc. Then simply start shooting. Regardless of what aperture you want to set artistically (And you have selected the aperture you want to stick with), you will either be forced to change shutter speed or your ISO. If you want to get somebody walking fast, your shutter speed directly impacts your ISO - so you end up changing those. On the other hand if somebody is sitting down or it's a fountain or solid object, you can dial back your shutter speed so you won't have to mess with your aperture or your ISO as much. My suggestion is that it's in a fast moving environment because you're just going to be forced to keep changing keep changing your settings. Especially if you're spinning and shooting towards shade shooting towards sunlights or more highlighted area, your settings will change along with it. The time will fly by and capture what you will. When you review the shots later on it'll literally just start showing itself to you. Each image will show you what you did wrong. It's also good if there's a shot that you really wanted and it didn't work out because one of your settings were off. It'll just start beating itself into your head that oh you need to change this when you see this situation you need to change this and so on and so on. The more you shoot the faster you will get it down. And for disclosure, I shoot fashion Week. So I was settings are always changing. I don't use shuttle priority or aperture priority. I've been doing this so long, I start out with 2.8 ISO 100 and 1/320 And I take it from there. Cheers and happy shooting. PS - DO NOT USE AUTO ISO. Don't start using auto anything until you absolutely have to such as night time shots. But for your learning process you've got to understand how your settings react manually to be able to produce an image. Once you get it you got it and you'll be able to figure out with mental math how to do a wide range of exposures.

[@fcojmado]

ISO 12,8000... there is something wrong 😄

[@woox200sx]

Manual mode is overrated. Could have just used aperture priority mode and focused on other things like composition & directing the model.

[@jasonsandiego8982]

12,8000 ISO? lol