Nailing Exposure Perfectly Every Time in Video and Photography

How to get PERFECT exposure every video and photography shot every time using 3 different methods- grey card ( gray card) color chart, histograms, camera exposure meter and colored paper. These are what I use to get proper exposure for camera lighting in my videos especially when using available light or constant LED lighting while vlogging both indoors and outdoors for vlogs and portrait photography or even product and cooking or food photography without doing any post processing or editing! Forget RAW. Get it right immediately when shooting jpegs.
Technically gray cards are 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.
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[@gohuntingfishingtv]

Markus, I know you don’t need to do this channel, that’s why I appreciate you.

[@highlandphotography6231]

Thanks for the video. You are absolutely correct. I'm a pro shooting for 37 years. When I was doing film photography even my lab tech told me "how do you get all your images within 1/2 stop on your exposures". That was with Kodak 160, 400 and 1000 Portra film. 'Cause I used a meter for some and flash equipment I knew would give me that. My photographs I delivered to my clients all looked the same. Exposure and color and density. Consistency throughout. My studio images too. When I went digital in 2005 I thought it would be different. Not so. Exposure was even more important. Your lesson today is dead on. Thanks for the very pertinent lesson.

[@espinza]

This is gold. You’re a national treasure my dude. Three part when you say “spend a few minutes with this” is such an under statement.

[@kulilipan4250]

Markus is leaving the world his wisdom and he will be immortalized 🔥

[@dominicwroblewski5832]

Old geezer here who remembers the old Kodak 18% gray cards that were always consistent. FOr the last 3 years I have only used the in camera light meter on overcast days. For sunny days I went back to the old sunny 16 rule and have not looked back. It works. I have refined it to take into account the seasons. After the fall equinox, during the winter, and before the spring equinox it becomes the sunny 11 rule.as during that time the sun is further south on the horizon and therefore the light travels through more of the atmosphere. If you don't have a gray card there is always green grass which is close to 18% gray in the summer. When the grass is dormant in winter close down a stop and you are good. I always have my camera se to the sunny 16 / 11 rule, take a test shot anyway, and pat myself on the back for getting a good exposure.

[@MarkusPix]

Technically it's 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.

[@lonceysbusiness333]

Cheers so much to you both 😊❤

[@clintjohnson5914]

NERDS!!! GEEZERS!! UNITE!! I went looking for my Minolta spotmeter F last year.. closet archeology at it's finest. I found it with a couple of old scratched up Kodak 18% cards.. Wow--Waves of memories of old girlfriends holding the cards --squinting in the sun at Craters of the Moon , Idaho and all over the west. I have decided to go Panasonic Lumix for the most part because M4/3 to full frame they meter and color balance very close.. saves sooo much work.

[@canturgan]

I knew a wedding photographer who's technique was using 'P' mode. He didn't understand technical stuff but he had a good eye and amazingly, got results and earned a living.

[@dangilmore9724]

I still use old hand held light meters that give you the EV numbers so you can get every useful combination of aperture and shutter.

[@chrishollingsworth7110]

I was culling a family session while watching your exposure video. I feel guilty, I was outside in the shade but my lighting was cloud, then no cloud. I just dug out my gray card and tested my cameras like you said. I shamelessly spend too much time in post fixing my exposure. Honestly taking a few more seconds to get it right would save me a ton of time in the long run! Thanks Marcus again for dumbing exposure down and making me realize it's not complicated. :)

[@superbmediacontentcreator]

Another (seemingly) basic but critical video, well presented and supported. Markus... a Tech writes it down as you did a Nerd then types it up and prints it out! I remember when my friend Garrett used to make fun of some of us for having foam cutouts for the things in our gear cases and your "study" is like that. I always counter that I can find what I need when I need it. What I detest about the current gear is that there is no way for an end user to get into the camera a properly adjust things so that (for instance) the histogram or the zebra appears where it should instead of having to work around things.

[@SIBIRIAKcom]

7:00 No, Markus. A nerd would make an excel spreadsheet 😂

[@paristo]

Excel? That is for office rats... Nerds would use SC via command line, using ssh remotely connecting to the computer with their smartphone...

[@Marshallchandra]

Nah the paper is more authentic 😂

[@LeopoldoManuelRamirezMena]

... Organic home made pper is more authentic... 😂😂😂😂

[@Twobarpsi]

I love using pencil and paper. Never the phone.

[@FrancisTing-iw8gq]

Huge 'Thank you!' for this.

[@n8iws484]

I'm so used to my 35 mm film cameras, never thought about it with my digitals. I always thought my digitals were automatic and good enough. Now I can take the time and verify before. Thanks Markus.

[@gc2161]

You've got to appreciate the craftmanship here.

[@digitaldevigner4080]

I have been frustrated with gray cards and now I know it’s not just me. I have a few different ones and they are all over the map in terms of gray value. Not to mention now thanks to Markus we can see a comparison of just how much each camera interprets middle gray. Another killer video and concept. Make our own gray cards for our cameras. Wow! Just think how much money we could all save if we just listen to Markus.

[@thissidetowardscreen4553]

Thanks Markus for the lesson! Great tip!

[@1970fabby]

Thank you for sharing all your knowledge. I am new at this and did not understand , I will watch it again.

[@DrWasim]

Thank you Markus. I am a bit confused though. You said to dial in the exposure to the point where zebras appear on the white strip of the color card. However, the zebras can be set to appear at level of your liking. What value do you set for your zebras for white? 95? 100? 105?

[@MarkusPix]

Like I said in the vieeo, take pictures first to determine the perfect exposure, then (with that exposure) find out what zebra setting makes the white strip flash- is it 80 or 95 or 100 etc kzbin.info/www/bejne/iafdkJlnj7ysbsk

[@DrWasim]

@@MarkusPix Ah, got it! Thank you!

[@pat2651]

@@MarkusPixWhat zebras do you use for your a7sIII and does this also work for video when filming in log?

[@thenosid951]

what I did on our lumix GH5 is that I set up a zebra at 75% and I expose that for the skin of my subject, given the subject is white. I might put a zebra at 50% for a black person. I also use the HLG color profil to get HDR but keep SDR compatibility. That way, I dont have to convert anything in post, I have my HDR video compatible with every screen.

[@user-hk7iy2vt5y]

Thank you for this information. I have similar settings for my GH5 as well. Very capable camera.

[@RealHomeRecording]

Palms. I have been using the palm trick for years. Whether it's my own or my subject's. No matter the race, the shade of palms (and feet bottoms for that matter) are usually perfect for IRE 70/75 (zebra stripes). Good times!

[@thenosid951]

@@RealHomeRecording I will use that if I have a more diverse cast.

[@anthonyjtravis]

Markus - Greetings from the UK :). Just wanted to say that you are an absolute star! Your videos have taught me SO much - I am a slow learner but your stuff is always soclear and well-explained. Thank you so much.

[@DanielCrist]

Wow, I had no idea that so many quality cameras could have such different interpretations as to what 50% grey is. Also that lengthy comparison study you did where you meticulously compiled all the data down on paper with all the different factors in different rows and stuff is definitely something I have done a lot of and will likely do a lot more of. I think it's probably a big part of what has made me successful in business, and for you, likely created lots of easy to recall days nets for photography. I can't help but record numbers and data and look for patterns and such. Anyway, thanks so much for sharing all the details, tips, and advice on a topic that we all need to focus on.

[@ggarciacota]

Great video as always Markus. Thank you for your passion on sharing your knowledge and obsession with us . I love nerd stuff hehe. I’ll do this for now on and in testing my different lenses too.

[@danelsiarts_254]

Keep em coming

[@tim10ac97]

Thanks Markus. Very informative and I struggle between my cameras to nail white balance.

[@RicanStudio]

There are a few large issues not mentioned. Cameras map the image to rec 709, meaning if they capture say 14 stops of DR it’s remapped onto 10 stops. How that range of light and dark is remapped differs depending on the profile used. One profile might favor highlights, one shadows, etc. So on the same camera, the gray could land at a variety of values. Also, if you are always the subject of the shot, your skin tone is more important to assign a zebra value than the grey card. Also, the same subject, be it skin or a grey card,may have different exposure values depending on the mood of the scene, a dark dinner scene may not have the same value as an outdoor scene, and that’s appropriate.

[@RicanStudio]

The solution is to know for your camera in your profile in your scene where the card or skin etc should be on the histogram or other exposure tools… I don’t know that there is an easy solution to this beyond some general principles as expressed in something like the zone system, apart from that one hedges in different directions depending on the creative look and the scene or one uses a monitor to check in real time.

[@SpectreSoundStudios]

HI Markus, great video! This is wonderful advice for constant light! How would you approach exposure for shooting with strobes?

[@3signets]

Great presentations. You make it simple for an art that others make it complecated. Thanks from New Zealand.

[@marcomark8]

Markus would you custom white balance before you set the exposure for the zebras? Would the zebra exposure process work for both RAW and JPEG? Another awesome video Markus.

[@BoReynolds]

This is awesome! Thank you buddy! My Canon R10 shows up on Wednesday.

[@GHOST-RADIO-NH]

I would love a full episode on lenses alone. Thanks for being a great human Markus.

[@nicedward7544]

I'm glad I started practicing correct exposure and WB in camera when I started. It helped a ton that I shot film before digital cameras existed lol. It makes everything so much easier once you get into the routine and it's just second nature. I hate messing with photos my wife takes sometimes.

[@vrvretro]

Hey Markus, this helps so much! My question might be a video for tips/gadgets and wrist positioning for holding any camera more steady for video, with something to grip, provided there's a screw mount port on the device. I've debated gimbals although those are mostly for phones, and a cage grip but those might be bigger than I want to hold if I'm not mounting a light. You always cut through the crap and get to the point. Thanks for all the videos.

[@koolhand12]

Thanks Markus...stellar! Can you do a video on packing your expensive gear for international airline travel that can't be carried on?

[@bullettin]

If it is expensive and you want it to get to the destination, that usually means carry it on or ship it. Checking expensive items under the plane is much more likely to see them disappear. You might consider renting larger items on location.

[@neilwheel]

Thank you Markus, this is fantastic advice! 👏👏👏👏👏

[@robertschneider2189]

The other photo sites try to sell me things. What I like about your site is you help me to take better pictures and bypass a lot of post. Thank you.

[@Семён-ь1о]

Hi Markus! Greatly appreciate your videos. I didn't understand your point of reaching 50% on different grey cards camera wise. AFAIK there are reference cards, and you should adjust your exposure in camera so that IRE (aka %) would reach 50 (exact wanted value depends on gamma curve actually). I mean the grey card is a reference. When you are talkinkg about different cards with 50% what do you mean? Are you talking about auto-exposure which reaches 50% on different cards (using different cameras)?

[@dennis1954]

Thank you Markus for the exposure tips.

[@BrianTheCameraGuy]

Thank you Markus. These types of tips save so much time!!

[@lonceysbusiness333]

Cheers so much for not having your viewers look back and wish that we knew this from the beginning 😊❤

[@ChaseDaigle]

The histogram is tied to the picture profile settings not raw output from the sensor so depending on your profile that can dramatically impact what you see on your histogram and what is clipping or crushed. I get you hate raw workflow for whatever reason but there are some big benefits to intentionally under exposing/exposing for protecting highlights in camera then setting exposure in post. It takes very very little time to set exposure in post and if that's in your workflow it's as simple as applying a profile or curve on import

[@thedronescene7474]

Yep! That is why I always use Neutral Profile ( Canon )

[@leledreher]

This is awesome. So many people talking about what values they swear by for their zebras. Be it clipping point, skin value etc. They all miss what you are saying.. each camera is different! It just doesn't work that way. Heck, even ISO values aren't the same sensitivity between cameras.

[@Jeremy_Akes]

For anyone using their grey white balance card target card for exposure (the first option with the target in the middle) - I found dead center of the histogram to be 2/3 a stop underexposed on my camera . So if you’re using a flash just take test shots until you get a shot with the histogram in the middle. Drag it in whatever you’re using for post processing to where it looks exposed right. For me it was adding 2/3 stop. So now I know I just need a picture with the middle of the histogram, then crank up my flash 2/3 a stop additional. So if 1/8 power is the middle of the histogram and I know that gives me 2/3 stop underexposure I would set to 1/8 and 2/3 to have the correct exposure. Found this to be easier than figuring out what 60 percent of the histogram is or whatever.

[@Jimmy_Cavallo]

I'm going to read this again more slowly to follow what you are saying

[@Jeremy_Akes]

@@Jimmy_Cavallo lol it makes sense to me but if I can be helpful just let me know.

[@RealpeopleStudio]

You are great. Always to the point, simple and clear info that everyone can actually use. Thank you!

[@MaiElizabeth]

For me, editing a photo is not a chore but something I love to do because I can learn new things. Not necessarily RAW photos. Even a JPEG photo, I love to edit them for fun and for exploring new things.

[@allanimalstaxi]

Hey great video Markus. I asked a few months ago to ddo a review on a Sony AX700 Handy. And you did a great on it and its more expensive Professional model. I just wanted to thank you for taking your time and money to do that review. I did learn a heck of a lot from it. But, I did not have the money at the time to buy the $2,500.00 camera, I went with this one. What amazes me is that you can zoom at out 250 times by changing the settings on the zoom on these cameras. I saw it on KZbin and had to have it, anyways, thanks again. Rich

[@SNAPVegan]

Best advice EVER!

[@KankukanAiki]

As always a genius move... never imagined it.. cool... and let me say it.. how can your videos be so awesome with a 1080p while many with 4k are so bad? Incredible..

[@MarkusPix]

The RX100vii is super good at 1080 which is why its my fav camera. Also make sure you have good lighting

[@KankukanAiki]

@@MarkusPix Yes I am following you every year and I learned a lot from you. Still I do not have your abilities or performance. Again.. thank you for teaching us how to be a better KZbinrs!

[@bullettin]

@@KankukanAiki Good lighting is a great equalizer between grades of camera. Having enough light hitting the sensor makes a difference. Also, a higher resolution sensor typically means each photosite is smaller than a lower resolution sensor of the same overall size, so it might take a little more light to make something look good.

[@KankukanAiki]

You are right.. still it is awesome how he makes these videos. I have a good average channel with some good lightning but never at his level.. @@bullettin

[@LuisCruz-yg6rs]

This was a super useful piece of content

[@SuchetB]

This is amazing - thank you so much for this ☀️🎥⛩

[@justbecause360]

Awesome! Thank you. I would love to see a video of your procedures prior to a shoot when you arrive at a location.

[@StevenGrant_Photographer]

thats is kinda brilliant the zebra setting with the white balance card

[@andypate3820]

Awesome info, thank you so much!

[@StrangelyIronic]

My photojournalism work has me in rural villages, forests, etc. instead of studio, so I've dialed in blinkies or false colors on my Olympus and Sigma gear along with just learning over time with spot metering what values I want for different skin tones in different lighting situations. Combining both I'm usually pretty quick to get a solid image, and if I have to go in later, I have both file types saved. Depending on the purpose of the image, I may want to do effectively what amounts to dodge/burn work with masks, in which case the raw file is the better start. Even then I don't myself using the jpeg I know I set everything right for to start with as the reference to quickly set the raw back to for contrast and other values.

[@the1andonly]

This is great advice. I think most of us eyeball it and end up fixing it later. Thanks for this.

[@gregrok]

Its strongly depends of profile we use. Middle grey are in diffrent point for ex rec 709 vs slog3 gamma, so be aware what U use and measure. Not for camera but for camera with certain profile. BTW MarkusPix U are one and only :-) Cheers

[@slablife]

This has helped me so much. I'm new to video and setting exposure has been something that I don't have a lot of confidence with. I'll be using this to learn and improve!

[@mpiemanb]

I carry an incident light meter. Measuring the amount of light falling on the subject has served me well. If I need an 18% gray card I have one from Kodak as it is the industry standard. 18% is considered middle gray and is how most all cameras and light meters are calibrated. I also have a Calibrite Color Checker as a reference for color temperature. I measure the incident light and can shoot without re metering for a while until things change. Then it is a simple meter and adjust. As you shoot raw, you find what all the old masters did to make those timeless emotional examples of what a simple few adjustments can do. Most young photographers "spray and pray" and won't learn to actually see what is in their viewfinder. There is so much information available on your "chimping" screen but it is ignored by most.

[@Advokitt]

Literally just saw that they are not all calibrated to 18% lol.

[@MarkusPix]

Technically it's 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.

[@DRobertson725]

Awesome info Markus thanks for helping us out.

[@hansherrera6969]

hi Markus love your videos you make it really simple and wanted to thank u and was wondering if you have a video on what u do when ur going to shoot a model with no light then with a light like what do you do first white balance exposer would love to know step by step if you could if not its ok and once again thanks love your work

[@hansherrera6969]

ps i have a sony a73

[@samuelhodges3119]

I never heard about zebras. I need to research that and get a clear understanding of what they are and how to use that feature. I learned something about setting the right exposure. See I thought all gray cards were created equal. Guess not. Now I have to start testing and listing my cameras with the correct gray card exposure. Thanks, again Markus for the lesson. I'm going to start shooting in JPEG. I need to save space on my computer anyway.

[@JulesFox]

Thank you so much for all your creative inspiration and tutorials. We really appreciate it Markus.

[@jerran_duty]

lol you mean gear isn’t the only camera content that’s available??? I love this stuff

[@dots560]

Thank you sir for these nifty tips.

[@PinnaclePete]

So you're always using custom white balance since you shoot either in controlled studio or outdoor settings. Makes sense. But if you had to shoot a subject quickly, without a tripod, without controlled lighting, what do you think of center weighing (or spot metering) on the subject's face?

[@dylansalt1]

Raw - a full frame sensor has at least 4/5 stops shadow recovery and 2/3 highlight recovery

[@mtbboy1993]

Great advice. And would help. But still with the extreme scenarios I shoot in Raw + editing is the solution for me. But for overcast, there's not much editing to do, some slight brightening of the shadows, and some color tweaks. I don't always have time to adjust the settings perfectly, like fo action shots in changing lighting conditions. This is one of the reasons shooting Raw is a must for most. But yes in some photos it's dialed in nothing has to be done. just upload/publish. So that's why my camera is set to shoot Raw, I only got + JPG for copying to my phone, as copying from Raw will use the compressed preview. I shoot in forests a lot, so it's dark, but if there's sky it will be blown out, I want my images to look as real as possible. But I get why you shoot JPG, I know you don't shoot Raw and don't edit, but perfect exposure seems impossible for what I shoot, so I have to aim for slightly too but not completely blown out sky, then tweak the sky and the rest separately, so with bright sky I have to turn down the exposure for the sky only using Lightroom's skym ask. If i go brighter then the sky is too blown out, if going too dark the image is ruined even in raw. For what I do it's tricky or impossible to get things completely right, and even with expensive camera and lens I still get chromatic aberration, and with the 27-70GMII I get what I call morse code chromatic aberration as it's lines with spacing on edges. I edit that away in Photoshop using layer masks. This might have a specific name, but I don't know it. If shooting in a studio, pictures might not need any editing. or have special equipment with you, but in my case it's riding a bike and stopping for photos. Maybe using some lights or a flash could help with this, but I don't have any of that yet at least. But if so it must be portable, I can get a flash, I want to get one eventually. I will look into lights more, the ones you showed in other vids look interesting. Not too big.

[@rickraub5448]

Can you go over those steps with the canon C 100 mark ii specifically? Like how to adjust your histogram etc. I have two of those cameras now and I’m still learning them. How do you adjust your histogram to get 50%? Thank you.

[@VC-nb6wi]

Hi Markus. It would be good if you showed the entire setup process, how you do it all.

[@hellopsp180]

Markus getting Scientific Amazing !!!

[@WorldMoneyWins]

Great job Markus. 🙂

[@soholingo]

Can you make a video on how to do this out doors with changing lighting conditions? Thank you so much for everything you share.

[@MarkusPix]

Same process. You must change with changing lighting conditions. If the sun makes everything brighter, the camera does not magically keep everything the same 😄

[@soholingo]

@@MarkusPix Thanks for the quick response. I was thinking of shooting a sport out doors and the clouds pass over, or if one side of the field has a different exposure. I need to change exposure quickly. Thank you again.

[@agentbey]

Markux you have exposed us to some fascinating knowledge.

[@ared18t]

Something I used to do with my camera was use spot meter on the brightest part of the location and the darkest part of the location. I aim for skies to be 1- 2 stops above and shadows to be no more than 2 and 1/2 stops below.

[@StevenGrant_Photographer]

thanks for all your hard work making these videos. it is much appreciated. i agree 100% with most all of your philosophy for photography. right in the camera is where it is at.

[@StarAccount-km1rt]

Big Big help! Thanks for sharing your knowledge Markus.

[@markattardo]

Great advice and how to!!

[@onnie1968]

Thank you Markus wb and now exposure, as a newbie it really helps. Thanx for sharing.

[@aengusmacnaughton1375]

Markus -- you provide us with so much great information on how to best use our cameras -- but, being the often-lazy bum that I am, I did spend 30 minutes this morning looking for the 'Markus' button/setting on my camera....

[@keysersmoze]

Thanks Markus, this is a good technical tips video. I am saving it to my video production list. PS I bought your film on DVD. Haven't watched yet.

[@ДмитрийМарьянович]

Thank you Marcus! 😊

[@briandipierro8865]

Thanks for the tips in all these videos! I brought my camera to a live show thing last weekend and could only really trust my histogram, but I do want to get some grey cards eventually! Though it was more of a run and gun thing anyway.

[@jamesryan8215]

Always great stuff. Since watching your stuff I have started doing a lot more testing with my equipment. It's interesting what you can learn

[@gregelgie]

Great resource that I hope many will watch and use.

[@MuhammadMundir]

great

[@Deminimis2]

Thanks Markus. I have always wondered about this but did not have many cameras.

[@christianklein5774]

I also wonder what the sencs on 8k camcorder is but its run paralell with the save cards mlike my motola fit an 1TB micro sd ect..

[@tedl1441]

Superb info. Thanks a million.

[@Premier-Media-Group]

Markus - have you tested the differences across lenses for exposure?

[@rcdhi1g]

Yeah that's interesting things to know.

[@AudioVideo_IT]

Super easy and reliable tip, thanks!

[@savemarinwood6678]

Excellent advice. Really helps me understand the concept.

[@jettschenker]

This is nuts, just use a light meter. The little sekonic L308 does both incident and reflective readings at your fingertips.

[@hingng9772]

oh! Thank you. I try

[@tech-utuber2219]

Great video Marcus. Kasey has taught you well. What do you recommend for the millions of people using smartphones instead of cameras?

[@simonpayne7994]

"Just do your homework!", said Markus. Indeed! The gray you have to expose for is actually 18% gray, not 50%. In photography exposure is logarithmic (to the base 2). And by the way, your eyes are logarithmic too. Talking in photographic terms, going up a stop means double brightness - e.g. looking at a 100W bulb instead of a 50W bulb. Going down a stop means the opposite. The 18% is chosen as a reference value for gray-cards so that you have room for parts of the scene that are a couple of stops above the ideal value and roughly the same number of stops for parts of the scene below the ideal value. If the camera's exposure is set correctly and the histogram has been programmed correctly, the 18% gray of the gray-card should show up bang in the middle. The zebra stripes are a different kettle of fish. Using them you are using 100% white as your point of reference and not "middle" gray, i.e. 18% gray. This may or may not be the ideal exposure for the scene. The only sure thing is that white comes out as white. What happens to the dark and middle tones is left to chance. This can usually be more or less satisfactorily corrected in post. If white goes over the top of what the sensor can register, usually the white clouds is a landscape, there is not much you can do about it. Except replace the whole damn' sky. Loosing details in the shadows is usually not such an issue, especially if a raw file is available. If you do not have] a gray-card at hand, you can probably go for the correct exposure by the skin tones on Cara's tummy. They probably have a luminance value pretty close to 18% gray. 😁

[@MarkusPix]

Technically it's 18% reflectivity on a logarithmic curve, but our eyes and histograms see it as half way (50% from left to right visually), not at 18% or 1/5 from the left. So when I say "50%" I simply mean perceptually on a histogram. I try to explain things that normal people can understand but nerds always get worked up when I do.

[@simonpayne7994]

@@MarkusPix Seeing you are mostly doing portraits, and almost entirely doing portraits of Cara, I think the idea of calibrating her tummy could be extremely useful. First - no make-up on tummies, second - she always has it with her. 😁 Quite seriously, this could be an excellent photometric luma solution.

[@shanec4441]

I like all the nerdy stuff. I nerd out on it. :)

[@BruceWalkerPhotography]

A very thorough demonstration; thanks! Question for you: what do you think of handheld incident light meters (eg Sekonic) for determining exposure?

[@MileyonDisney]

Thanks!

[@FuzzyDan]

I can’t agree enough with getting everything right when you shoot it rather than fix it in post.

[@aaronwlkr]

I shoot in Jpeg+RAW normally just because I have the extra room. I almost never touch the RAW files.

[@mattcero1]

2:55 "It's kinda sucky". Don't get so technical Markus! Great video man! I love it when you get down in the weeds and yes, get rid of that white bullseye right!?

[@juzzonmorris]

I never thought to check. Thank you so much👊🏿🔥🔥🔥

[@colin-4794]

Top man for practical info, thank you so much Markus 👌🌟

[@ChrisKadaver]

Does the exposure readings from the cameras always follow a linear pattern so that these methods always are applicable no matter the lighting? I mean... Couldn't it be that some cameras are more off in terms of grey scale in certains situations than others? Or maybe this method is the closest to "good enough" one can get though? 😅 I never knew you couldn't trust the exposure readings in cameras so this is great to know though. I've only used my Sony Nex 5T and my phones so I'm a newbie in terms of photography.

[@olafschermann1592]

Thank you for all these methods