How to set out, measure, cut and fix Timber featheredge cladding the carpenters way

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How to measure, cut and fix timber featheredge cladding the carpenters way, In this video I am cladding a new garden room in featheredge cladding, I have a really nice way of doing the solid corner posts that works like a dream, I then measure the boards, cut them using a chop saw with a simple long table and a length stop to do many repeat cuts all the same length
I really enjoy cladding from real timber to cement based cladding, It is a satisfying job that you can stand back at the end of the day and really get some job satisfaction!!

[@garywright8846]

Brilliant, it’s great too see a real craftsman

[@thetallcarpenter]

Anything longer than a 600mm offcut and my customers moan like hell about wastage, so I always end up coursing vertical joints on large flanks which is another challenge as I don't like to see a diagonal joint repeat up the flank. (would love to have joint free faces like yours). Nice to see a proper, substantial 55/60mm corner post the width of the boarding AND the batten. I think your videos are honest and are, 'keeping it real'. Its really good for the carpentry trade. Cheers.

[@johncouch1115]

Excellent tutorial I'm now all set to do my own small job of cladding in the back garden. Thanks mate

[@alan2804]

I can already feel the quality of featheredge cladding jobs getting better all over the country after watching your video. Great tips for lots of people out there whether they are in the trade or just having a go. Keep it up sunshine.

[@aerialrescuesolutions3277]

Sunshine.....

[@MisterBoy316]

Great stuff. I'm trying to decide on featheredge vs shiplap etc for a project, interesting point on nail choices

[@thomhayesimaging]

Cheers for the 87mm Spax screws tip. Just used them exactly as you described and didn’t have any issues. Legend!

[@thomasschafer7268]

Was ist denn bitte 87mm schraubenlänge von spax?

[@TheHarrogateHandywoman]

You’re my hero Robin. I started my own handywoman business last August and whenever I need to know how to do something the correct way, I’m always back here at your page. Thank you for making some of the best videos on KZbin. I’m off to build a custom bike shed with plastisol coated steel roof, box flashing and featheredge cladding for a customer. Thanks again @theharrogatehandywoman

[@ukconstruction]

Hi Sarah, many thanks for your super kind message!!! sounds like that is going to be one nice bike shed!!!! pictures please when you have finished!!!

[@jebimasta4604]

Good old Rod, your building sites best worker. If I've learned anything from your videos Robin, it's that I need to get some Rods on every job.

[@ukconstruction]

Right on

[@handySingh]

The new wireless mic working really well...still dont understand why other are complaining...the talent shown speaks for itself..legend. cheers Hardip

[@ukconstruction]

Thanks Hardip!!

[@marksmith2412]

Gotta love a man who appreciates a good screw! A real pet hate of mine is when someone gives me a box of cheap fixings and expects a premium finish. I tend to insist on supplying my own fixings now and I'll add to cost to my invoice.

[@ukconstruction]

Yes Mark with you there mate!!!

[@clivebrowne9888]

I have been puzzling over the corners of my garden room build and now I know how to do it. Thank you

[@clementdecourcy9793]

Good day Mr. Clevett I'm from Quebec Canada. Let me tell you that you are a very diligent and conscious worker. I enjoy watching you're video and learn new ways. You know how to teach. Keep doing the good work. Clem

[@lesterdewey7644]

Thanks for your guidance yet again Robin

[@picky0031]

Hi Robin, been avidly following you over the last year or so on your endeavours, I'm on the wrong side of 40 now and I've been working with a local builder for a number of years, l can honestly say that it would have been an absolute pleasure and a privilege to have met and worked alongside you even under your wing, it's a abundantly obvious that you have a genuine love of your trade as well as a genuine nice guy, as I said it would have been an honour to work alongside you but those stars didn't align sadly but I'll keep watching and taking notes my good man. If I ever drop the lottery I'll be dragging you up north to build the house! Keep up with the fantastic work

[@ukconstruction]

Hey mate, thanks for the message, well you sound like the kind of guy that would have been the perfect co worker!! well get on and win that lottery!!!!!!

[@chrisfinds7745]

We like to make a little gauge out a piece of batten with a notch out of it abit like an L shape that fits under your fixed board to give you the correct spacing for your next board saves alot of time,just need to check with your batten gauge every 5 or 6 boards to double check and adjust accordingly.also you could have marked your corner posts with your gauge to help make the job faster.👍

[@davidbray6515]

Proper job as always robin loving those old saw horses they look really strong and folding legs by the looks of things

[@richardjones3112]

The corner idea is simply brilliant.

[@kadzo1000]

Yes Robin I've always said get the right screws for the job! the cost on a job like this is nothing but the ease of use is priceless!

[@notsosmartmart5402]

Thank you Robin, I looked up how to do this today and I found you again, many thanks

[@Split10uk]

Very good explanation of where you put the nails, and why you put them where you did. Lots of fencing professionals on KZbin that get this wrong.

[@daveconnolly905]

Excellent video, So helpful, thanks Rob

[@krzysiekklejszmit6967]

Robin, fantastic carpenter and friendly fellow 😄

[@runzareviews4188]

great idea with the corner piece. I want bit chunky corner pieces to make it look really sturdy.

[@AngusWilson-i5j]

Thanks for those Spax screw recommendations for the battens, never come across them before but picked up a few today and they are absolutely fantastic. Love the videos, thanks for all your hard word creating this great content!

[@ukconstruction]

This is why I do youtube... it's so nice to help like minded people, and I appreciate your comment Angus!! Cheers mate.

[@mooney0086]

Robin seems a top bloke. Very genuine

[@mej974]

Fantastic video Robin! So glad you've got your own channel, to show your skill and knowledge.

[@ukconstruction]

Thank you kindly!

[@Druidor]

just feather edging a new porch, was going to brad nai but the gun broke so been using galvanized nails, learning a few things from your videos.

[@1470tman]

Loving the videos bubby. Very informative

[@andylees2940]

Really excellent so full of great technique, hints and tips, many thanks

[@RI-uv3lm]

Such a pleasure 👍 as always, the perfectionist👏👏👏 Seen bits of this before. This is the right level of detail one needs in videos👍

[@ukconstruction]

Thank you very much!

[@jat918mrt]

Great video and lots of good tips, I am pretty handy but you still mentioned a few things I had over looked 🙏. One question what length nails are you using in the nail gun ?

[@chrisharrison8539]

Another top video. I love the fact your bring the joinery finesse to site and use the rods and rod out most jobs you do, as a joiner myself people cant always see the time consuming logic in that. I love the capel build and tool fair vids with Roger. Keep them coming!

[@ukconstruction]

Thanks 👍

[@DixieNormous1]

I love watching your videos! One section reminded me of my friend I worked with, didn't wear his tool belt and was always looking for everything

[@Toyotaamazon80series]

That drives me insane, watching fellas walking around the job looking for their tools and they're wearing a tool belt. If one decides to wear a tool belt one needs to build up the self discipline to put the tools back in the belt. My speed square comes out of my belt, make a mark, check for square etc then the square goes straight back into the belt immediately. The same for my hammer, pencil, tape, pincers, knife etc. I am so at one with my Occidental Leather carpenters vest that I can find things with my eyes closed. I been wearing it for ten Years. It's the best rig I've ever had, 👍😁🔨🇮🇪

[@DixieNormous1]

@@Toyotaamazon80series Me too,I have a Occidental adjust a fit framer and adjust a fit fat lip framer

[@Toyotaamazon80series]

@@DixieNormous1 Occidental Leather are a marvellous American company, top notch materials and craftsmanship. Pure quality which I don't mind paying for, 👍 😁 🔨 🇺🇸 🇮🇪

[@DixieNormous1]

@@Toyotaamazon80series Definitely!!

[@Christhecarpenter345]

Incredible carpenter thank you for sharing all your knowledge

[@bigc6099]

Great video. I’m doing my own mancave soon so I’m glad I watched your video on where to position the galvanised nail on the board. It’s these small things that make a proper job. Nice one fella thank you 👌🏻👍🏻

[@ukconstruction]

Glad it was helpful!

[@timmiell4678]

Great informative video, can’t wait to see the van fit out as I’m changing mine around keep up the great work 👍

[@bishbashbosh3634]

First time watching your videos. Got to say an excellent video. One thing I’ve done in the past is to use a square to rest nail gun on so all nails are in a straight line.

[@nathanmiller5209]

Love it thanks Robin very informative.

[@john1boggity56]

Great video - thank you for posting this - soo helpful !!

[@michaelgrant6920]

Fantastic video Robin, please keep them coming.

[@rupertm2542]

Great video. One thing I’ve got for my Paslode is a none marking head. Takes all of 1min to fit as is far more robust than the ones on the second fix. I had to special order mine. But well worth it, nothing niggles me more on timber facing than seeing the classic Paslode spike marks.

[@doddsy65]

Maestro of all things wood .

[@ritadoyle1679]

Nice job mate ,love your tools One thing though ,not too sure about hight rod ,i understand you will use it as a guide for around the house ,you have heard of a Datum line I guess Another thing make a block and stop piece a sort of combination square You make it what ever length to require then attach a block stop at right angle You will never go wrong

[@RachelLawrence-l4b]

Your tuition is excellent 👍

[@ukconstruction]

Thank you Rachel

[@T.E.P.]

Super video and excellent demo

[@darrenstagno8082]

Hi Robin loving the videos just wondering if it’s possible to tell us how you do your window detail Thanks Darren

[@nielskvist9222]

Hi Robin, Why don't you keep a small gap between the cladding and corner post just about 6 mm or so? The water which runs down the corner post and the water that hits the joint, is sucked up by the cladding and because it butted up against the post, it doesn't have the possibility to dry out again (at least not as easy). We learn our apprentices to do it like that here in Denmark. Thanks for all the knowledge you share, im sure a lot of people learn a lot from your videos including myself.

[@martin-xq7te]

Brilliant video. more please

[@baraklazza1595]

nice, we use a story rod also but only in the corners an once its marked on the cavity batterns then ping chalk lines for the top of board, then we dont need to faff around with a story rodd after that just simply shoot it on to the line. i suppose this only works if ur weatherboards are to the mm gauge wise. also we just brad the top of the board to hold in place with stainless pin, then afterwards we set up a line laser, or string line to nail of the weatherboards so nail lines are dead vertical/straight

[@ukconstruction]

Perfect!!! really like your approach

[@tonycopeland5782]

Great video - Like the way the 90 degree corner trims are made. Any suggestions for trims on an external 135 degree corner that will be weatherproof?

[@jeremyghunter]

Great video thank you! Only one question comes to mind... how do you secure the top of the uppermost triangle of feather edge board on the gable, which ordinarily would be held in place by a board above it?

[@colinbuckley3733]

another great video the use of the rod it really simplifies things i recently built a pretty big shed and i was lucky a friend of mine i a carpenter and he advised to use screws to prevent cupping

[@TheBigSugs]

Great video Robin. Have you ever come across the Hardie cement cladding boards? They have some clamps you can buy called Gecko Gauges which space the boards when working on your own. They adjust at 10mm increments for 100mm-240mm boards but unfortunately only suitable for 8mm thick boards I think. No good for these timber boards however there may be a similar product on the market. Hope that may help you or anyone else reading this comment.

[@shaunglendinning]

Thanks for sharing Robin! Fine job.

[@timwaddington9656]

You're still in desperate need of the Englebert Strauss! I like the vent strip of breather and the soffit type vent below. Saves tacking insect mesh all round! I'm going to use that method from now on. Do you not leave an expansion gap on the feather edge? Best Tim

[@mrb1864]

i think people moaning about audio was a compliment really, it shows the content was good enough and they wanted absorb your words . This mic seems crystal . Would adding 2 screws help prevent cupping or do you find 1 screw prevents splitting issue as timber can move freely and the overlaps enough of a second retention ?

[@tomsmith9048]

The timber will move either way nothing is ever going to stop that and you want to let the timber react to the season's if you put screws in over the years you'll spot crack marks around the screws 🔨

[@7scooby797]

Yes Robin cheers, just been doing some cladding at work

[@richardsedorski1206]

Wow you certainly know what it’s all about well done.

[@timbetts7377]

I like your corner post approach. Why no heart out orientation of your boards? Appreciate your liking for the square cut on the bottom edge, however heart out will allow the board to cup into the building and facilitate secret pinning. Ideally, rift sawn boards will be more stable but very much more expensive

[@thetallcarpenter]

Hi Tim. I am completely lost with what you are suggesting in your comment. I think I understand what you mean about, 'heart out', but am genuinely intrigued with the rest of your technique. As I fit a lot of this type of cladding I am always looking at ways to improve its installation. Cheers.

[@johnnyg1700]

Some great tips there. Thank you for the video. Just one question though. Could you have made a jig for the board spacings to make it quicker for installation of the feather edge boards? Cheers

[@noahleno]

Love your channel. Keep the videos coming. Happy Holidays from NYC!

[@ukconstruction]

Happy holidays! to you over in NYC one of my favourite cities!!

[@cookcarpentry8774]

the corner post trick is brilliant

[@NewcastleMatt]

I'm stealing that, in five years time, when I've figured out the rest. I'm at the Eggerboard stage. Next time I'll write down what the vapour barrier is.

[@martinbrice9802]

Looks so good Robin appreciate the tips will use that on my next project you make it all look so bloody easy 😂😂. Please say you do make mistakes and you are human !!! Also was wondering do you have any pics or videos on the installation of the underfloor vents around the perimeter? And is there any reason you opted for that particular membrane sheeting over the osb? Insulation values?? I’ve only ever installed roofing membrane. Thank you appreciate your advise. 😊 👍🏽

[@LauMagroTheFrenchKOInection]

thank you for this video. It helped me a lot

[@Broadmaynewood]

Another nice job ...thanks for sharing...

[@stevenleach7252]

Robin - can you explain how you’ve achieved the sub floor ventilation, especially once the floor insulation has been installed?

[@stephencarlisle3743]

Can’t get much clearer than that . Superb video

[@disklamer]

Always a pleasure to watch the details done right. Any nail or screw or hole that goes from the outside, should slope upward a bit so water will not seep in as much thanks to gravity and surface tension. Finally seeing how nailing down the laps is done properly, like most I blind nailed them without really thinking about it.

[@samposton9101]

Great work as always!

[@luciusvorenus7727]

I’m loving the videos Robin, please keep the content coming. After you’ve done the first cladding board why don’t you just mark the top edge of the clad on fixed battens rather using your spacing batten every fix. It’ll save you a lot of time.

[@ukconstruction]

Its a good suggestion but the cladding being a sawn material varied as much as 20mm on the width so its not true enough to use the top edge, if I was using a Cement based cladding such as Hardie plank weatherboard then I would do exactly that, many thanks for your comment mate

[@Carlostype]

Luv the tips, great info!

[@ukconstruction]

Thanks for watching!

[@johncolquhoun6416]

I was wondering what that thing was. Great stuff again.

[@sebastianwells5635]

Great video as ever, so interesting. Quick question for cladding a house what do you prefer using softwood, larch or other?

[@johnfithian-franks8276]

Hi Robin, what is that little cube thing in the next field to you (behind you when you are cutting) for? What is your take on screws to fix that cladding! Or if not screws how about ring shank nails.

[@antonvonbismarck]

yes, I wondered the same, looks like an old cable-car

[@nigelbennett316]

Great job love the video. Wouldn’t it be quicker to mark the battens for the top of the feather edge rather than use the rods?

[@CraigBass1988]

Or create a little t-shaped template which you can hold against the board with the correct cover allowed.

[@MisterBoy316]

I've seen you mention the 87mm screws for battening in a couple of videos but they really only seem appropriate for the corner post where you're going through the width of the batten into the post? To affix vertical battens to your OSB sheathing do you just use regular woodscrews 35mm or so?

[@jimthevan]

Great Job ! What nails did you use in the gun?

[@benandlucille]

Really useful, thank you

[@MrSmid888]

I went and looked at the old shed that il be replacing soon, it’s feather edge , and it’s a brand made shed so 100s made the wrong way. It’s nailed through the bottom of each board which goes through the board behind. Looks about 15yrs old at least, not much movement just very worn rotting wood. If I used them il do it this way in the video, by hand, love swinging a hammer. Cheers

[@philippasoodeen1751]

Robin are you fixing this corner piece into your insulation or is it going straight through into your frame?

[@joehart3826]

What size nails is the Paslode IM360 firing? They seem to have a full round head?

[@ukconstruction]

The nails for this Cladding are indeed a Full head and they are stainless steel from Paslode, I am doing some painted featheredge cladding in a couple of weeks and I will feature the nails and the gun in a video later in the year, the nails would have been 63mm from memory!!

[@dylanmuir9309]

Power to the people 👍

[@SF-br8bu]

Did you Leave an expansion gap when butting against the corner posts?

[@mikesmultiskills2061]

You need to ask Santa for a retractable pencil holder, Ffx tools sell one for £5,they don’t last long to be fair but they are great to have.

[@grahampennington8019]

HI Rob, great videos and very imformative. Wonder if you could advise me.... I have some featherboard cladding to put on an extension, and some will go around a 3m bifold. I was intending to run reveals as detail (3x1")around the edge of the bifold to cover featherboard ends on the two sides if the bifold, should the featherboard to the top of the bifold run below the bifold course opening or is it ok to run the boards down to meet the reveal (3x1"). thinking about possible water ingress. The latter would be better in my circumstance to try adn match with old existing featherboard on the adjoining building. Many thanks G

[@SuperBobbster]

Love this channel

[@andyabraham7269]

What nails/brads are you using please?

[@kwizmon]

Hey Robin. Just a quick about what you said towards the end of the video. You said to use nails with a decent sized head/first fix nails. Why would one not use screws instead of nails? Thanks. P.s. I am addicted to you content! Absolutely the best..

[@ukconstruction]

Hi Chris, I suppose its a tradition thing, for rough sawn thick cladding like the featheredge we would always use a nail, cladding is constantly on the move through the seasons and i reckon the nails have a bit more give in them compared to screws, you can get reduced head screws for some claddings but the time and expense taken compared to a traditional nail technique would not be worth it, hope that answers your question Best Robin

[@Dg-zj6jo]

nice one big lenght wood to do on your own can you screw then or not please sir

[@kermitefrog64]

Nice looking rain screen. That insures a structure lasting for countless decades. What are your thoughts on shiplap siding/cladding compared with lap siding?

[@paulparry4734]

Hey Robin, could I use a first fix nail gun for cladding.

[@chipper701]

Robin love your work but was wondering with your storey rod would it not be easier transferring the marks on the 2 corners and very quickly strike chalk line marks all the way up instead of continually having to reach for the storey rod.

[@krisward406]

Hi Robin. Are you just using normal collated ring shanks to fix? I’ve got a garden room coming up which will be cladded with shiplap so there will be a secret fixing at the top. Will that be sufficient or will it need a fixing in the centre of the board also?

[@straylightc4b]

Lovely video as usual, not sure you're getting the best value from your ear defenders with the impact driver ;)

[@x4dd]

Nice job 👍 What thickness are your FE boards? Look a decent size.....Ivan only get hold of fencing FE for a gazebo roof and don't look up to much 🤔

[@ukconstruction]

This is 200mm wide, 32mm thick down to about 8mm

[@tomsmith9048]

A good trick is when you transfer your staff lines onto each baton then you can move your cladding up or down accordingly 🔨

[@CheckFred]

Nice one Robin :-) ...... That phone of yours has a pretty excellent camera doesn't it ?? ... No pixelating at all :-)

[@johndonnelly336]

Great video mate here is what might be a stupid question. Rather than using the rod for the space why not just cut a block to size and flush it of the bottom of the previous board? What that not be quicker?

[@ukconstruction]

Hi John, you can do that but you can easily gain or lose spacings, I like to use a rod so all the boards line up at any corner, window reveal or doorway, there is so much setting out that having a rod saves so much time in the long run too, thanks for your comment mate

[@lesterdewey7644]

Robin I keep refering back to your video as they are a great source of Information. I am now on my site in East Sussex which by the day is throwing up issues. Would you have time for a Couple of minutes on the phone please

[@ukconstruction]

Hi Lester Most domestic jobs are like this!! happy to chat on the phone mate send me a DM on Instagram and I will forward a number to you

[@myfaceback100]

I was looking to build a shed/workshop. I was thinking of using spax stainless steel screws instead of nails would they be as good I am using treated feather edge like you did

[@ukconstruction]

The spax stainless would be nice, the only benefit using a nail is that as the cladding expands and contracts over the seasons the nails have a bit more give and will move a little with the boards if they are screwed really tight then you may see some splitting here and there in the future, hope that helps mate