How to set the Index Pins on SInger Models 401A and 500A

[@carolemagnusson5044]

Wow! I heard my name! Yes of course I have taken everything off the frame that I know how to, pre-treated and showered the frame, re-oiled and re-greased before I started the adjustments with you. You have taught me well. I got more practice on how to give a sewing machine a shower and re-assembling the parts. It's shiny clean now. Now my index pins were at the right height and they were in the machine during washing, so I did not remove the index pins at all, but I think I'm going to. I'm sure they are greasy and grimy around the set screws because the whole machine was really greasy and grimy to begin with. I spent a lot of time getting grime out of the slots. So in the near future, I will take these index pins out and give them the cleaning they need; the set screws are fortunately not stuck and turn easily. Thanks for teaching me how to clean and maintain these Singer sewing machines; I know what a clean, smooth-running machine looks like now by watching, studying, and doing what you do in your videos.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I know your machines turn out gorgeous. It's rewarding, isn't it? If you do take them out for cleaning, try the front one first to see how it goes. For me, the rear one is trickier to install, but then you are not afraid of R & R parts so no worries. Yep, I mentioned you, hehe. I thought you'd get a kick out of it. Take care.

[@JebbAdams]

Thanks! You posted this in February 2020! 4 months before I bought my first sewing machine; a Toyota, a Morse actually. The second machine was a Singer 237! So I searched 237 & Andy Tube came up! But as far as this video; it is the real deal! I won't be adjusting the Index Pins today, but at some point I will need to do that. I am heavy into your 401/500 cam stitch selector shaft videos right now. Removing it and the followers, etc., and replacing them. I have removed and replaced them twice and now the parts are in their container ready to be replaced for a 3rd time! I am an apprentice restorer. Now I have the experience and knowledge base to do this work following the instructions from the Singer 401A Adjusters Manual! And thanks for the link to the manual, too! My point is this: After I take it all apart and replace it & am ready to test it ... that is when I come here and see if I did it correct. Sometimes there are small errors in the manual! This is an excellent tutorial! I hope all is well with you. Things are well here. I am able to work right now. One day at a time! Peace. Thanks!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for working on the machnes and doing videos. I too found sometimes you have to "read between the lines" of the Service Manuals. The writers just assumed their Singer Technictions knoew how to docertain steps. I rember one where it said "take of the retianing clip" It took me over an hour to find a way to do that, haha. Stay strong, Jeb

[@JebbAdams]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Andy!

[@BJFilbin]

Once again a wonderful teaching video. Every time I find a machine I am excited to fine out what is wrong with it because all I have to do to fix it is search for just the right video of yours and I am able to follow it step by step. I love the ease that you have in presenting things and I really am grateful for the photos you take . Thanks again and blessings to you and your family.

[@andytubesewing1953]

wow what a great comment BJ thank you very much I'm so happy that you found my channel and that you are using it to rescue and save these machines I know just by your attitude that you really enjoy it too it's a hobby I have really come to love and that's why I wanted to share it with this KZbin channel in viewers like you really make me feel justified thank you and take care

[@berniepokorski6608]

Thank You, Andy!!! This video is just what I needed to help me raise the rear index pin on my 1956 SINGER 401A machine! In early 1957, my dear departed dad (a "Singer Man") brought it home for my mom Along with its portable case and its Singer utility table. My dad suddenly and unexpectedly departed this life just 3 years later, and I inherited the machine when mom passed away 50 years later in April of 2010. I have a hard copy of the "SERVICE MANUAL FOR SINGER SWING-NEEDLE SEWING MACHINES" THAT COVER THEIR MODELS 206K, 306, 319, 319W, 401A, and the 403A machines, and while it gives the basic instructions "TO SET THE INDEX PINS AT THE CORRECT HEIGHT", it does not have the tips and tricks to deal with the stubbornly stuck index pins when needing to adjust their height. On my 401A machine, the rear index pin was set too low, low enough that the lifter would lock into the grooves in the index pin between the letters on the left side of the machine's stitch selector plate. It was "Andy to the rescue" providing me with the extra steps required to adjust the height of that stubbornly stuck rear index pin! Once again, Thank You Andy!, and may God Rrchly 'Bless' you in all of your endeavors.

[@andytubesewing1953]

I'm happy you found the cause of the problem and got it fixed properly. I read your other comment before you deleted it and knew you were on the correct path. I can tell you are determined and, IMO, that is about 80% of the requirement to work on these machines. I love that you have a family machine and know the history. Your 401A can very easily last over 50 years more with just normal maintenance. I do have many more videos that pertain to your machine and the parts inside if you encounter any other problems or you are just curious about the inner workings of it. A 401A Playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO A 403A Playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Please think about servicing the motor for increased power and speed. A full restore playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ If the motor looks to be in good shape you can just do a commutator cleaning and reseat the motor brushes: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pqvUZaesbdahb5Y Lastly, the poor overlooked foot controller. After 70 years it usually needs some attention: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71 Thank you for keeping the machine, and for the "Blessing" you shared🙏 Take care.

[@debbiepring2236]

Love you Andy! You are so helpful and patient and have a real love for what you do by sharing the love!

[@andytubesewing1953]

It's nice to be loved; believe me! You made my day, Debbie. Thank you ✨😊

[@paulamendes5907]

Dear Andy, you guessed right someone would need just this. And before I even knew it hehe 😉 Have no idea how it happened but the machine I got came with the finger free and the follower completely “gunk glued” to the bottom. Well the whole machine was a 70 or so years deposit of brown gunk. For now, I sprayed the pin and the screw with a little wd-40 as you mentioned to release things a little… A huge thank you

[@andytubesewing1953]

Glad you found the video. I've had several Slant-O-Matics just as you describe. One of them helped lead me to use Krud Kutter. Loved this comment. ✨

[@howiemoore6356]

I just got your detailed response to my question, Andy...Many Thanks; you're a diamond!...I thought I was going to reply with an email, but it sent me back here, so I can't attach the image identifying the part in question. It's real late at this end but I'd like to reply quickly just out of courtesy...and because I appear to have been a total dingbat!.......I see now, looking at the 'service manual' you kindly provided the link to, that he 'pillar' (about which I, mistakenly, said the paddle swivels) doesn't perform that function at all!...and now that it's all dismantled, and I'm really sleepy, I can't tell you what it actually does! I can say for the purpose of identification however, that it protrudes upward from the underside of the arm (like the two selector pillars) VERY close to the paddle mentioned earlier; it is slotted for a screwdriver and appears like a simple screw when viewed from above (it has a smaller diameter than the two selector pillars). ANYHOW....it's THIS that isn't truly vertical, and appears to be tilted slightly (towards the back of the machine) do you think 'IT' should be vertical? So grateful for your generous time Andy, and so sorry to have 'slipped you a crippler' earlier! PS Here's wishing you the best of health.

[@andytubesewing1953]

In my previous reply, I mentioned a video for the Needle Bar Driving Arm and suggested you watch that to see parts in the area and compare them to your parts. If you watch that video you will see me lift up and out the NBDA. If you stop the video at 02:45 and look in the center of the screen you will see the Tension Arm with Spring P7 attached to the rear of it and the Tension Arm is held down in place by the screw you describe. The front tip of the Tension Arm (towards the front of the machine) should be placed on the side of the paddle towards the nose of the machine. Spring P7 applies tension to the arm to keep the paddle in place when it is rocked by the cam stack action during zigzag sewing. Spring P7 also helps return the Needle Bar to the ready position after it swings to the side during the zigzag stitch. I never noticed that the post holding the screw that holds the Tension Arm was tilted towards the back of the machine. TBH, I never even thought about it. Is the bottom of the horizontal arm where that post and arm sit slightly curved up towards the back of the machine? Does that make it just appear like the post is tilted, or is it tilted to compensate for the slope of the bottom of the arm? Personally, when the parts are assembled if the paddle rocks back and forth during Zigzag and the needle bar swings normally I wouldn't care if the post was tilted. I don't have a 401A on hand any longer to look at closely and I don't know how the post would be titled by normal use if it was not meant to be. You'll have to be the forensic mechanic and determine the situation. BTW, you have your own KZbin Channel and can post videos and video slideshows anytime you like. Many of my viewers do that when they want to show something about their machine for us to look at or listen to and help diagnose. There are many tutorials showing how easy it is to post videos on your channel. My grandson uploads his right from his cellphone to his KZbin Channel. Just an FYI

[@mike-cl7pb]

Thanks ever so much for this. My 431g has been breaking needles on zig zag and I've released it was off centre and sussed with the red bite lever not going right over to 1 this was the problem but couldn't work out how to adjust it. I got as far as noticing burring on these screws but couldn't get my head around how they adjust to zero. There is not much on the internet about this machine because of its rarity and I wanted a service manual to fill the gaps .......which you've kindly supplied the link below 🥰

[@andytubesewing1953]

You're welcome, Mike. It's not an intuitive adjustment is it? I'm glad you found the video and thanks for maintaining that historic machine.

[@MaryGonzalez-md9vx]

Good afternoon. Thank you for sharing you knowledge. Mr Andy this setting is for a 411g machine. Thank you for you timely response. God bless you.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Greetings, Mary. I've never had the pleasure of working on a Singer Model 411G, 401G, 404G, or 431G. I've never even seen one in person. They were assembled in Germany and sold in Europe but not in The USA. I have had several viewers comment to me that they used my videos for model 401A ( kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO ) and Model 403A ( kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg ) to work on their German machines and found almost all the parts to be the same. I guess you'd have to compare the parts for yourself to see. You can download a FREE copy of the original Service Manual for Model 401A at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf it has all the adjustment, removal, and replacement directs. Good luck, and thank you for watching my channel.

[@roosterwilson9371]

Excellent and very informative, I am in awe once more with your knowledge and presentation. Thank you.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thank you, Rooster. I'm happy if you found it useful. Kind of you to comment.

[@athertonca]

Perfect video for my 403 and 500. It couldn’t be more on point. The entire cam stack, follower, index pin area on both of my machines is gunky.

[@andytubesewing1953]

thank you very much. This model can get that way fairly easily b/c it can be hard to get down inside to clean. People who try and wipe off old oil before new usually keep it cleaner and working better for a longer time. Thanks for watching.

[@valeriemendoza8341]

Thank you! Working on a 500a found sitting in my grandmother's closet!

[@andytubesewing1953]

You can do it! Here are 36 videos that may help: kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO kzbin.info/aero/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Thank you for rescuing that machine, Valerie!

[@susanwingert7065]

Another wonderful instructional video Andy! Hope that I don't have to do this repair but if so, you have certainly made it look straightforward and as clear as it can be. I have two sets of gauges (one rounded edge as you used in the video and my second set has tapered ends) but I can get neither one to fit in the space (too long). You must have quite short ones. Thanks for the lesson.

[@andytubesewing1953]

One of my sets is small 1.5 x.25" blades www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/performance-tool-4601/tools---equipment-16488/hand-tools-16814/measuring-tools-16659/feeler-gauges-27626/0f02bd4c65d0/performance-tool-mini-thickness-gauge/w80525/4614489 thanks for watching.

[@debbiepring2236]

And I just bought a 500A in a case so am assuming that I have to unscrew the base with the two screws only. I love this machine. So cute with the retro style!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Yes, two screws thru the case into the holes for the hinge pins when mounting the machine into a cabinet.

[@timothyheckler173]

Hello Andy! Question for ya! Just completed the cleaning and reassembling of my 401A … Was going through your videos and making all the adjustments to dial this old girl in and noticed that when i try to put the front selector nob to J it won’t lock into the last slot(top) on the back index pin…it rides high on the pin.When it drops into that slot, the selector is on I…. Conversely, when selecting A the “floating finger” locks into the pin but in the second to last slot from the bottom… I’m assuming that the rear index pin needs to be adjusted up……. Am I thinking correctly? Or is there some other adjustment I’m not seeing? Thanks !!

[@andytubesewing1953]

I think you have it. The only time I had something a bit different was when a cam stack had been removed and replaced and the stack was not seated 100%. In that case, both followers (front & back) were off by the same height. You did not mention the front follower or index pin so I'm assuming they are OK. Always do the check as shown before making any changes. Thanks for keeping that machine in service and good luck.

[@rosegarcia3414]

Thanks Andy. Love your videos. Very helpful. I have a 500 A and I 😍 it.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Glad you like them! Thank you, Rose.

[@annway9202]

Your videos are very helpful. Thanks so much

[@annway9202]

Do you know the number on the led light bulb I should look for

[@andytubesewing1953]

Kind of you, thanks

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@annway9202 here is the one for most SInger push-in light sockets. There are other sellers too. www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/led-light-bulb/products/led-light-bulb-push-in-type-19-32-base-part-2pcw-led

[@howiemoore6356]

Many Thanks for the clarity of this (and the MANY other clips) you have shared Andy. I've stripped down a 411 and notice that the 'pillar' of the 'driving arm' that the 'paddle' swivels on is not vertical. Do I have a problem there, or is that the way it should be set up, please?

[@andytubesewing1953]

The German-made models 4XX do have some slight differences from the US Models, but I don't remember the US model being tilted at all. There is not really s "pilar" for the paddle, but some screw-type inserts at the top & bottom of the paddle hold it to the driving arm. Thinking about the parts that contact and move the paddle it makes sense to me that the paddle would be vertical. The Arm has a ball swivel on the end that inserts into the base of the cam stack holder. That supports the Arm at that end. The 'hole' the ball inserts into could be full of muck and gunk I suppose and that is pushing the arm off kilter. The other end of the Arm is attached to the Needle Bar Vibrating Bracket up in the nose. If that attachment is loose or incorrect maybe that could tilt the entire Arm. Here are a couple of videos about the NBDA and the NBVB that have some decent showings of the parts and how they should connect and work. Maybe you could compare those to what you see on your Model 411. NBDA VIDEO: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpTHeImwgZ6HbNE NBVB VIDEO: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIXQqoBqgrOLbNE These videos were made with a Model 403A that has similar parts to the 401A upon which the 400's machine are made. Another thing that can help you is a copy of the Service Manual for Model 401A. It's not the best copy, but it is free. You can buy better ones online if needed: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf I've never seen a German-Made 4XX in person so forgive me if I've made incorrect assumptions about their parts. Good Luck, Howie, and thanks for watching my channel.

[@debbiepring2236]

Do you have a website where your videos are cataloged? I find it difficult to navigate youtube for what I want on your channel. Or suggestions please.

[@andytubesewing1953]

No website. 90% of my videos are organized into Playlists listed by Singer Model number, or what I'm restoring, like the motor or foot controller. You can find my PLAYLIST PAGE here: kzbin.info/door/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists You can also just search KZbin for what you want, like searching "andy tube 500A" will bring up most of the videos concerning that model.

[@agri-lifeorganicfarm2466]

Great video. Thanks for the lesson.

[@andytubesewing1953]

thank you very much I'm glad you liked it and it was kind of you to take time and leave a comment.

[@staylor8638]

Andy, hello. First thanks for all the Singer repair educational videos. You're awesome! Currently, I am close to finish repairing a Singer 401a. This singer machine came with a few broken parts, I have managed all but can't get the stitch-decorative metal chart board located under the spool pins door to stay in place. It is missing that donut holder looking part (sorry not sure what its called). Is there any recommendations on how to fix this? Maybe a diy part can do the trick? Fyi, double sided tape didn't work, nor did the magnetics tape:( Thanks in advance for your time & input. Sue

[@andytubesewing1953]

That little part is not listed on the parts diagram, so I can't give a part number. It's kind of a "MISC" type part anyway. It goes by various names, like tension washer, tooth washer, and star lock washer, and it is made to push on the pin and hold the plate on under tension. I just use an adhesive for stuff like that. I figure the plate is not meant to be removed anyway. My favorite for something like this is "E-6000 ADHESIVE:". A very common clear sticky adhesive. www.amazon.com/s?k=E-6000+Adhesive&i=arts-crafts&crid=2GO7AIW2B0FXR&sprefix=e-6000+adhesive%2Carts-crafts%2C159&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 I usually buy it down the road at Walmart. I have a couple of mini clamps I use to hold it in place while drying. I squeeze a ring around the little hole in the center about 1 inch away from the hole, then a thin string of adhesive around the four edges about 1 inch in from the edge. You don't need to overdo it. That spacing lets the adhesive expand when I clamp it without oozing out the hole or the edges. Thank you for the question and for rescuing a vintage machine from the junk pile. 🙏You can easily see it's a wonderful model and worth the effort. Take care.

[@debbiepring2236]

Is there a paint for tan color on the lid you suggest? That's the only blemish it has. It goes right down to the metal.

[@andytubesewing1953]

No over-the-counter paint that I know of. This person has been selling the paint for years, but it's $40. www.ebay.com/itm/133798725742?hash=item1f2706886e:g:wekAAOSwKIpWAF7A

[@MaryMcLemore-t9s]

I watched this video last night and found it very interesting. I just bought a "new" 401A last week which happens to be the model machine I learned to sew using. All in all the machine is in good condition and I have cleaned, oiled, greased and the machine will sew a perfect stitch except when I use cotton thread in the top. I can use poly on the top and cotton on the botton and serger on top and cotton on the botton, but when I try to use only cotton (which is what I use in my sewing business) the top thread will pull a loop underneatch the throat plate. Loop being about 1 1/2" of thread. Any ideas. Mary Beth

[@andytubesewing1953]

It's an odd problem. Be sure you are using the correct size needle for the thread thickness you are using. We have found a "top stitch" type needle can eliminate problems. www.schmetzneedles.com/products/topstitch-sewing-machine-needles Usually looping underneath the needle thread is either lack of tension above or too much tension on the bobbin case, but then why does the poly thread go ok? I have also found that cotton thread can catch on small defects on the hook point that the polythread will "slip" over. If you have a burr or needle strike on the hook point it could be catching the thread and not releasing it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6SUpHusZpJlgcU If the cotton thread is thicker than the poly I suppose it could catch, hesitate, or hang at the Thread Clearance bottom right corner of the bobbin case and Bobbin Positioning Bracket. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hYmuoo2mbZyYhJY If that happens the thread won't be wrapped around the bobbin thread to form the cross stitch and loops form and hangup. Some of the hooks for the 401A/500A have a "De-Lint Pin" that was supposed to keep lint off the hook. Singer discontinued it. It can catch the thread down by the hook and form some big loops and bad tangles. Many sewists have just ground off or pulled out the De-Lint pin because of that. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z2q4cmBth89riZI I'm just brainstorming here based on what you wrote and not having the machine on my workbench.

[@MaryMcLemore-t9s]

Andy, thanks for your answer. Today I did a major tri flow cleaning. Top to bottom and so far my machine is stitching perfectly. I had done basic oiling and cleaning, but got lots of dirt out today.

[@andytubesewing1953]

@@MaryMcLemore-t9s Nicely done. Happy sewing!

[@loubnamomo2570]

Bonjour merci pour la video super .Tu peux me dire a ou je peux achter les disc cam j'ai la meme machine mais manque les disc cam

[@andytubesewing1953]

Si vous voulez dire les caméras à motif noir, elles s'appellent Singer Top Hat Cams et peuvent être trouvées sur eBay et Facebook marketplace www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw= Chanteur+Couture+Machine+Top+Chapeau+Cams+&_sacat=0 Si vous parlez de la pile de cames en métal en haut au centre de la machine, vous devez en trouver une d'occasion. J'achète sur eBay pour cela www.ebay.com/itm/153374343655?hash=item23b5d2c1e7:g:LbsAAOSwiHBdI7uJ Si vous êtes en dehors des États-Unis, je ne sais pas où vous pourriez le trouver. Merci d'avoir regardé ma chaîne, mais posez votre question une seule fois et non sur plusieurs vidéos. Merci.

[@harrisoneze9758]

I am having an issue with moving the red lever on my singer 411g

[@andytubesewing1953]

Free copy of the 401 service manual is here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf

[@jayltd.7030]

Do you by chance have a 403 service manual. Thank You Andy

[@timothyheckler173]

Thanks!

[@andytubesewing1953]

Thanks for supporting my channel.🙏 I appreciate your generosity.

[@scotta3906]

Very awesome. Thanks

[@andytubesewing1953]

You bet!

[@rafaelmunoz21]

Hello Andy, From the Sewing Machine First Timer (SMFT). I have been recently gifted a Singer 600E Touch and Sew with a pedal in the case w/o attachments or manuals. Very similar to the 401A and 500A. I got almost everything moving well after a good oiling and working all the setting plus it runs now! However, the only part that I could not free up -> was the rear follower collar; it is stuck solid to the stationary post index pin in the lowest position. Probably has never been moved since bought. I have tried all the various treatments with no positive sign of movement. Like I said it is stuck solid! Do you think removing the stationary post index pin with the rear follower attached as the best option? Then I could soak and work to try and get the rear follower off the stationary post index pin? Thank you and please advise. Take care.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Yes. I'd pack cotton balls around it and soak with KK or WD40 overnight. If it would not move in the morning then I try your plan. What else could you do? You have thought it out well.

[@rafaelmunoz21]

@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the follow up. We don't have any cotton balls but we do have lots pipe cleaners. I wrapped the follower with pipe cleaners from the lifter arm to the top of the index pin and gave it a heavy brush coat of KK to soak. We'll see what happens. I've made a mess of my work bench the past six months, so I started cleaning up. Next, that progresses and gets to be a bigger project. Now, I'm cleaning the garage! Take care and we'll stay in touch.

[@andytubesewing1953]

Good solution with the pipe cleaners! Congrats. Just remember it was not my idea to clean your garage. I don't wish that on anyone. haha.

[@jayltd.7030]

transmission fluid and acetone is a good penetrant.wd40 is not a penetrant per say

[@andytubesewing1953]

OK. WD40 = Water Displacement formula No. 40. It has some penetrating value on stack parts, especially ones that are stuck due to dried/varnished oil. They also make a special penetrating formula: www.wd40.com/products/penetrating-oil/ ATF + Acetone is more penetrating than regular WD40 according to some tests: In 2007 "Machinist's Workshop Mag. tm" published information on various penetrating oils including subjective tests of many of the popular penetrants. The following list is the results of their test with the control being the torque in foot-pounds required to remove a nut from a bolt in a "scientifically rusted" environment. Penetrant ------------------------------------------ Average Load None ------------------------------------------------ 516 Ft. Lbs. WD-40 ---------------------------------------------- 238 Ft. Lbs. PB Blaster ----------------------------------------- 214 Ft. Lbs. Liquid Wrench ------------------------------------ 127 Ft. Lbs. Kano Kroil ------------------------------------------ 106 Ft. Lbs. ATF*/Acetone Mix --------------------------------- 53 Ft. Lbs. ATF= Automatic Transmission Fluid Some also believe vegetable oil + Acetone works as well and is much cheaper than ATF fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=86741#:~:text=While%20automatic%20transmission%20fluid%20and,in%20a%209%3A1%20ratio. (Never tried it) An interesting video comparing some different brands: kzbin.info/www/bejne/roaooJVopKZ-jNU I can t4stify that if all you have is WD40 it works very well, haha 😃 Thanks for watching and sharing, Jay

[@jayltd.7030]

@@andytubesewing1953 I use my old transmission fluid .mixed with acetone when working on auto's. All the best Andy

[@jorgemariocarranzamolina164]

Si pudieran dar videos de la maquina singer 411 G

[@andytubesewing1953]

El modelo SInger 411G se fabricó en Alemania. Ni siquiera he visto uno en persona. No tengo acceso a ningún documento como un Manual de servicio, Manual de instrucciones o Manual de piezas. Siento no poder ayudarte. 😢😢☹☹