How to set the oil furnace barometric damper

[@SantosLou]

This man knows what he's talking about he has years of experience ..Most important he shows you what will happen from one setting to the other..Troubleshooting,,best on KZbin,,,TY...Gray

[@bobsquires4521]

I know nothing of the pressure, or enough to know I shouldn't mess with it as a layman. I just oiled the swivel and wired a rig to keep it from locking in its extreme open position and eliminate the noise. It's real windy right now here and it is reactive to the wind. I wanted to keep the noise down (the bang-banging) as it returns with its force to it's resting position too without at all hampering it's full pendulum motion. Success, nothing but silence from the confounded (albeit important) contraption! Thanks for the explanations and expertise - very cool and informative video. My maintenance guys tell me the whole system is working really well - which is terrific considering how old the system is. Just a lil oil here and there (especially in the forced hot air motor) works wonders.

[@rodgraff1782]

All oil furnaces should have a draft diverter installed from the beginning. You’re one who really knows how to interpret the draft readings. I’ve cleaned out my share of oil furnaces, that were running a positive pressure over the fire.

[@oneeyedrone4293]

They should probably be in the scrap metal yard 😂

[@franciscocastellanos9157]

Your videos are very informative.Thanks for sharing. I do not miss any! Even though I do this everyday as an hvac service tech. I learned that the real school is out in the field. Congratulations.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks for the support. I have found that even though I have knowledge in the field, I learn from others all the time. GFM

[@russellbarnes7732]

Thank you for the plugged heat exchanger comment. That was huge for me. Gosh there is so much I thought I knew but I don't. Even after 30 years working in the hvac world.

[@kevinhommes]

Thank you for all of the videos that you post. I am getting ready to go to school to be an HVAC technician and i watch all of your videos to get a jump start on the learning process

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks for the support GFM

[@robblacie2377]

Thanks for showing everyone what not to do. Looks like you are on a positive scale

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks. The reading is the same, I never pay any attention to the scale. GFM

[@leenietupski872]

Thanks very much, your videos and info are the best !!!

[@Zickcermacity]

Thanks for sharing information about this damper. I've had technicians that come out for my oil boiler tune ups tell me, on at least three occasions "You don't need to worry about your damper" "It's an archaic 1970s leftover", etc. I've repeatedly asked them to adjust it properly, and they all say "it doesn't matter, don't worry about it. We don't even carry a barometric pressure reader on our vans to read it" Are my oil provider's techs being truthful?

[@grayfurnaceman]

They are full if beans. The damper is used to control how fast the heat moves thru the heat exchanger. The faster it moves, the less heat is transferred to your water. Generally, they should be set to .04 negative pressure. GFM

[@Zickcermacity]

Thanks for the quick response! Is -0.04 a value on that slider? I will try that value. Since the techs at my provider - both older ones and younger by the way - don't think the damper is relevant, who else could I have come out to perform the adjustment process in your video?

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@Zickcermacity The draft value is sensed in the vent. There is a 1/4" hole in the vent pipe for the sensor probe. Adjust until the pressure is right. I would try a service company rather than the oil supplier. GFM

[@Zickcermacity]

@@grayfurnaceman I was told (by who I don't recall at this point), to adjust the damper door counterweight so that on a calm day, the door would remain shut when the boiler is off, and would open slightly, about one third way, when it is firing

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@Zickcermacity Nope, set to negative .04 with a draft meter. GFM

[@Dicofol1]

Very informative, thank you. What happens when you have 2 appliances connected to the same chimney (furnace + water heater) ? Can you make a video about fresh air intake and back drafting problems ?

[@nohyphens]

This is exactly why I came here. I have a oil furnace and oil fired hot water appliances side by side. How many barometric dampers do I need if they both go into the same chimney?

[@Dicofol1]

@@nohyphens In my case I had 2 one for each appliance, but they were not good quality (calibrated ones).

[@Vandershire]

Great explanation, thank you

[@chrisvalery3678]

Great video. Can you recommend an inexpensive draft gauge for oil furnace.. Amazon has digital ones for $35-$75 . Thanks much

[@bobharper9674]

The damper is upside down. This installation is not shown as being approved in the Field Controls literature. Also, I would have expected you to discuss the counter weight being set on the correct side: vertical vs. horizontal chimney connector orientation. Otherwise, another good video grayman. Thx.

[@JOutterbridge]

is upside down bad? and what size damper is that. Do the backside counter weights ever need adjusting?

[@JOutterbridge]

is upside down bad? and what size damper is that. Do the backside counter weights ever need adjusting?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Johnny Outerbridge That damper may indeed be upside down. They will work either way on that type of damper. If the damper has backside weights, they may need to be adjusted. GFM

[@arneyjeff]

Very informative. Thanks alot.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks for the support. More on this coming. GFM

[@jayman1601]

Good video. I have a question. When you were checking the pressure below the damper, why is there 2 tubes on the manometer? Just wondering what that other one is used for. Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

Jason Gabriel The manometer is set up to do a pressure difference check. Such as pressure difference across a filter. GFM

[@TR-rf7jv]

Very nice, well put together

[@The714Formula]

What draft gauge do you recommend to buy?

[@JustinDesilva]

Thank you for sharing. Our oil fired boiler damper remains open after combustion has ended, sometimes 30 min to several hours. If I flick the damper it will then close. Is it correct for the damper to remain open after combustion has ended or does this mean it might require adjustment?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Its probably just getting stuck. You may have to replace it. GFM

[@georgewashington8652]

The weight for the draft regulator is on the wrong side, should be on the right when installed in a vertical tee

[@mitchdenner9743]

Your right, i guess it doesn't matter if the damper is upside down? Because mine has the weight towards the top opposite of what his shows. Edit...actually his weight is on the right side for vertical installation, the damper is just up sidedown.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

You're wrong. The barometric damper doesn't know the difference. There are two mounting positions but which you use comes down to personal preference. I'm left handed so use the left-hand position. It's as simple as that.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

@@mitchdenner9743 No, this damper has been installed correctly. It is not upside down.

[@mitchdenner9743]

@@paulmaxwell8851 NO PAUL YOU ARE WRONG! I called field controls, the manufacturer of this damper and they told me it will not operate correctly upside down with the weights on the bottom like that. If you look the pivot point of the hinges is offset to one side, not centered. The damper was designed to be installed upright only by the manufacturer. It tells you in the installation instructions. So I'm always going to refer to the manufacturer and in this case paul, YOUR WRONG! Figures your lefthanded.🤣

[@GlennMarshallRocks]

@@mitchdenner9743 - just what does being Left handed have to do with anything...?

[@mainelyelectric]

I think it’s just because of the design of the crazy heat exchangers that Millers have that you never can get a true negative draft at the flame inspection hole because normally they are just vented straight out the roof. when I open the little inspection door to look at the fire it goes from negative to faint positive negative to faint positive and so on and that’s what my service guy that looked at it said it has a hard time establishing draft I think.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I don't think a barometric would help here. Barometrics reduce draft. GFM

[@mainelyelectric]

@@grayfurnaceman yeah but do you think the 12 feet of 4 inch pipe is causing much back pressure on the furnace? It’s never had any issues in the 3 years I’ve had it installed except for the very recent issues of it not lighting. But I think it’s working again so far it’s been running through the night yay!! I’m thinking of going with the thermo-pride miller replacement when this one wears out because they are still cleanable!! Do you think that I could just install it the way this one is installed with the 12 feet of 4 inch pipe or would I want to install a chimney??

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@mainelyelectric I would recommend any horizontal pitch be as steep as possible, but it should work. GFM

[@TheBoilerMan]

Read proper installation for barometric dampers, To close to Breach ! Draft over the fire on a clean flue passage - heat exchanger, Draft over the fire should be set to Neg-01 or Neg.02 max this is explained by most oil burner manufactures. Get over fire draft set Neg -.02, Then do smoke testing and Co2 reading and others, Then again check draft over the fire and make sure its within Neg -.01 to .02 max when done! If higher readjust barometric damper, Higher draft over the fire sucks out flue gases to quick. If to high Neg -.4 and higher over fire draft this will throw off Co2 reading and smoke test. Trust me been doing this 28yrs licensed for most everything! Some Oil fired Manufactured appliances with poor design heat exchangers may not want a barometric damper ( rare ) and we know who they are. Keep in mind new heating systems on Old Chimneys you might not get any draft over the fire! Then you need a chimney liner for the total btus and don't forget to insulate the new liner on an outdoor chimney and some indoor chimney sections exposed to outdoor temps. The Boiler Man LLC

[@grayfurnaceman]

I have not seen a minimum distance the damper must be installed in relation to the breaching. No saying it is not true, but I have heard this before and have not been able to find where the install instructions give a minimum distance. There is a minimum distance downstream of a stack switch. As for combustion efficiency adjustments, you are right on. The chimney liner info is very good. Most of the masonry chimneys are far too big. Especially with newer, more efficient furnaces. Thanks for the thoughts! GFM

[@mitchdenner9743]

As per FIELD CONTROLS installation instructions: "the control should be located as close as possible to the furnace or boiler. It must be 18" from stack switch if one is used."

[@carriersignal]

Great video!! Thanks.

[@mainelyelectric]

Since I have approximately 12 feet of 4 inch flue pipe including the 4 feet of insulated pipe up the outside of my greenhouse for my miller. I’ve never had any issues that I know of. But do you think that I should have a 4 inch barometric damper in the beginning of the pipe coming from the top of the miller or do you think 12 feet of 4 inch pipe is ok to run the miller this way I’ve had it this way for 3 years. I was thinking maybe with out a barometric damper it might be causing back pressure. But was worried that if I installed one that the flue gases would take the path of least resistance and then just come out of the damper into the greenhouse. The only reason I ask is because if we have any more major issues with this furnace since it is used I will be replacing it with a new unit from Thermo pride that makes a identical replacement with the same 4 inch vent and definitely would not want to damage a new unit with a long 4 inch flue pipe.

[@generalrepair8731]

Good evening gray furnace man I have a question I have a Burnham boiler and I have a 8 inch stack. It’s got the same set up as you working on here and in a windstorm. It’s blowing off my smoke detector carbon monoxide detector rather I don’t know how to adjust it I don’t wanna mess it up. Can you be of any assistance?😊

[@EddieLeverich]

Great video! Thanks for sharing!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks for watching GFM

[@hoosierron1]

My damper stands wide open - is this causing a problem?

[@joesphschramm3754]

I just installed one where the weight and pivot are on top. Yours looks like it would be better if it was on the bottom half of the damper. Should I turn it around?

[@grayfurnaceman]

It will work either way. GFM

[@ghostridergr8259]

VERY smart devise!!!

[@grayfurnaceman]

And about as simple as can be. GFM

[@stodderd]

Great video. My damper, which is partly open when furnace isn't running, always seems to close mostly shut when the oil burner kicks on. Is this opposite of how it is supposed to work? I thought the heating of the flu would increase draft and cause the damper to open a bit when burner is on.

[@grayfurnaceman]

It probably does not mean anything. You could have a positive pressure in the house that may cause that. Hope this helps. GFM

[@rodgraff1782]

@@grayfurnaceman He may have worn pins or something else that is not allowing the damper to move as freely as it should. There are some cheaply made barometric dampers. The good ones are made by Field. Sometimes the pins or the slots they ride in wear out causing the blade to drop and bind.

[@allendomke3109]

I have question on my furnace I only get o readings on manometer. same meter as yours even with damper sealed closed. What would cause this. I have a tall mason chimney and no smell in basement. also on windy days damper will open even with furnace off.

[@geojor]

an important adjustment, thank you...

[@kidhenderson8260]

How come the manometer is showing positive draft in the flue. I have the same meter but it shows a negative number. Been learning allot from your channel. My new oil fired boiler has a positive in the chamber and negative in the flue.

[@grayfurnaceman]

It is actually negative. I generally do not pay attention to whether it is positive or negative as if it is positive, there will be a strong smell near the vent. If your system has not been in use and has a positive in the combustion chamber and is not designed for a positive pressure in the combustion chamber, there is a problem with the installation. There should be specs with the installation instructions. GFM

[@kidhenderson8260]

@@grayfurnaceman Thanks. The video showed .02 and not a negative .02 at 2:36 of the video. Mine is suppose to have a positive .02 over fire and negative .04 at the breech or flue. I always thought you needed negative at the breech.

[@mechanicwarrior20]

Does the same rules apply for adjusting barometric dampers on natural gas boilers as well? such as cast iron sectional and firetube boilers?

[@grayfurnaceman]

In general, yes. That's assuming its a commercial boiler. Most residential gas designed boilers use a draft hood. GFM

[@elizabethb6279]

What is the device called you are using to measure the air pressure in this video?

[@grayfurnaceman]

It's called a manometer. It reads fractions of an inch of water column. GFM

[@gp0ps]

Your videos have been very helpful, thank you. I bought the manometer you use and it's very erratic. The measurements range from 0" WC to -.12" WC. Do you know any possible causes? I'm thinking of returning the manometer for another.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

Just look at the barometric pressure of the room air. Obviously it should be steady. If it's not, return it.

[@gp0ps]

@@paulmaxwell8851 Thanks for the reply. I bit the bullet and got a Bacharach Draftrite and it's flawless

[@Arieldny]

this is great!

[@barewolf3]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Shouldn't the readings be negative?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+barewolf Yes. I tend not to pay much attention to which side is attached to the vent. Perhaps I should. GFM

[@hvac01453]

not always! The Riello is a positive pressure burner and I think some Carlins are doing the same thing too...

[@ohger1]

@@hvac01453 If you had positive pressure over the fire it would cause a blow back into the room...

[@hvac01453]

@@ohger1 a positive pressure over the fire is mandated by Riello and a few others now, due to the multipasses of the combustion chamber... Its nothing extreeme, but it is positive for sure. Ive been running mine positive for 27 years this way.

[@ohger1]

@@hvac01453 Didn't know that. Thanks.

[@ZeroBit0]

What do you recommend for running that intake pipe, outside? To keep it from creating a vac in the conditioned basement? Is that possible? I have a blown air oil furnace, %84 afue. Installed in 06. Debating on upgrading what i can or replacement. Tigerloop. Insulating pipes, etc

[@grayfurnaceman]

Most burner manufacturers have an outside air kit that can be installed on the burner to bring in outside combustion air. GFM

[@gabrielvail3353]

I HAVE BEEN LOOKING FOR A GOOD VACUUM METER, WHAT BRAND AND MODEL DO YOU RECOMMEND?, great video by the way, Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

I have been using this one for a while and it has not failed me. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2SuoHSHZ6ilmbs GFM

[@jeffhubler4517]

My heater does not have a barometric Damper. It is crawl space installed but I am wondering if I should fire the people that have serviced it and have one installed.

[@grayfurnaceman]

That depends on whether the install instructions require a damper. GFM

[@richardfossani6421]

This may be a stupid question, but how come you never see those barometric dampers on gas furnaces? Most of the time when I test, the draft is high, and this would be an easy fix rather than getting into resizing vent pipe. The only time I would see a damper would be if it has a side vent kit. Maybe you can do it, and its just not popular, but I can't recall ever seeing one. thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

They are actually used on some commercial and industrial units. As for gas designed appliances, they will have one of 2 vent controls. Older furnaces used a draft hood to control draft and too big of venting(up to a point) is considered ok. The second is induced draft appliances. They are negative pressure vents, but a barometric would upset this draft and may cause vent gasses to be vented out the barometric. So I guess, leave them alone. GFM

[@georgeEPC]

have you done any videos with gas draft diverters? I'm trying to understand how i have good draft above the hood, but around the draft hood opening doesn't seem an extinguished match smoke is drawn in. Also testo 327 show 1 ppm co

[@grayfurnaceman]

I do have a video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYO3mIR7bJ2rma8 Hope it helps. GFM

[@markbean8614]

Also, on another note...What if your barometric is at a 45 degree angle on the flue... Would you put your weight on the V or H position for Vertical or Horizontal?

[@allanlang1662]

Use the horizontal position for the weight, make sure the barometric damper is level even though it's on a 45* angle so the door hinge should be level, you'll have to spin the damper to get the hinge level.

[@trankt54155]

Thanks for posting the video BUT may I suggest you start out explaining 1) the physical significance of having the device in the exhaust of the heated, burn gas; 2) how is the device constructed so it would open by adjusting the weight and how the movement of air creating the negative pressure differential that would cause the flap to open and allows the ambien, unheated air to move in by the suction effect of the moving hot air, etc; otherwise, you are just telling the minute changes in the number but did not explain the meaning behind doing it. You may write and say you assume people already know what the thing does, etc.; if that is the case, then.....

[@grayfurnaceman]

You are correct that this one is about how to adjust the barometric. You are also right that I should be doing one on what it is there for. I will try to get going. GFM

[@trankt54155]

@@grayfurnaceman Thanks for the reply. Great job on the video.

[@russellsnyder4221]

I have a question i installed a trailer furnace welding n my garage I'm wondering if I can put a damper on the pipe that goes outside because it doesn't seem to push hot hot air i think I'm losing my heat out my pipe

[@grayfurnaceman]

No damper. It will just dump exhaust gasses in structure. GFM

[@migo022]

I'm missing that weight and I don't know what is called or where to get it

[@lastchance8142]

When using a digital manometer is it better to put a 90° bend in your copper tube, or just go straight in?

[@aetlas5000]

If the pressure was negative, why didn't the meter show "-0.04?" It seems like at times it was showing negative and at times positive readings. Specifically at the 2:00 mark.

[@bkoz319]

I am trying to figure out what causes a rumble at startup, when the burner kicks on after delay the damper slams shut quickly once and then works as normal. Eff test: 0 smoke, 11.5% CO2, 5.5% O2, Overfire Draft -.01 to -.02" wc, Damper Breech draft -.06"wc. Runs fine but damper slams at startup and there is a slight rumble at startup, oiled fired furnace.....any thoughts? thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

A rumble on startup indicates a failure to establish draft. Could be caused by a negative pressure in the house, a nozzle too small or a blocked chimney. GFM

[@bkoz319]

@@grayfurnaceman thank you, could a blocked heat exchanger cause this too?

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@bkoz319 Yes, I would check overfire draft and compare to stack draft. Should be -.02 difference. GFM

[@franciscocastellanos9157]

Your digital gage reads positive pressure, should it be negative or positive. Some Carrier oil furnace are designed to run in a pisitive draft while running.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I keep doing that! durn. The pressure in the vent is negative. When using metal vent, the pressure has to be negative. You have probably seen 90+ efficient furnace. They have a positive pressure in the vent. Thanks for the thoughts. GFM

[@BrewCityRider]

Just went downstairs and found my damper lying on the ground. The chimney clean out door was also open...what the heck is going on? I reinstalled the damper, but not sure I have it on right. It looks like the one in your video except the weight is on the inside. I installed it weight side down, otherwise it would just hang open when the furnace is not running. Is this correct?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+BrewCityRider The damper appears to be right. The bigger problem is what caused the puffback that blew it out. The unit may need a service. GFM

[@BrewCityRider]

+grayfurnaceman Yes, I'm going to schedule a service asap. Thanks.

[@davekenna4074]

Do I need a damp my oil stove has a stove pipe that's about 6ft long can't go longer

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would install a barometric damper. GFM

[@curtischamberlain2678]

My oil burner has no vent/damper on the chimney. There is a 2.5 x 4.5 inch door just above the burner that lets me look into the slot in the combustion chamber. This door has a screw allowing it to be adjusted to hold open at varying amounts. Anyone know if this should be adjusted like the damper?

[@ghostridergr8259]

Pressure in the combustion chamber ..... on burner manual they have that to on mbar in europe...... we haft to be on this levels like manuals or we can ritch it all the time?

[@farmertomnj]

Just wondering why the draft regulator is installed with the weight at the bottom. I have never seen that before, I am used to the weight being installed towards the top of the smoke pipe. What is the logic behind installing it on the bottom?

[@grayfurnaceman]

farmertomnj Its just the different manufacturers. It works the same. GFM

[@ottocrg]

hello. I have a 10" flue, should I look for a 10" barometric damper or can a smaller damper work?

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would use a 10 ". GFM

[@arajoaina]

I just bought a godin petite 3726 oval wood/coal stove. Can you please help me unfreeze a frozen air knob on the front? It is frozen solid in closed position I tried to open it with a grip lock pliers but just ended up damaging the porcelaine on the lug on the dial. Which way do I turn to open it and do you have a suggestion on how to unfreeze it. I tried wd40 on the bolt stem behind the door, as well as spraying the gasket with it. Any tip would be appreciated. Thanks.

[@grayfurnaceman]

arajoaina I don't have a lot of help here. These parts are pretty bad for seizure due to the heat. Opening should be counter clockwise. I would try an anti seizure oil and spend some some time working it back and forth. Don't force. Hope this helps. GFM

[@adambosco6374]

I have an oil burning hot water heater and furnace sharing the same metal chimney. each have their own barometric damper like the one above. Watching the hot water heater run.. I see its damper rock back and forth.. when the burner goes out, the damper rocks closed. When the furnace is running.. it's damper doesn't really move, but it does move the water heaters damper instead. when the furnace burner goes shuts off.. both the furnace damper and the water heater damper fly WIDE open for a second and close. What would cause that kind of sudden draw when the burner goes out. Is something wrong? because the water heater doesn't do that and they're connected to the same chimney pipe. Chimney has been swept within a year and both burners cleaned and nozzles changed at the beginning of this heating season.

[@grayfurnaceman]

It could be the sudden loss of vent gas volume. The hot gas volume is not followed by a similar volume, so the slug of hot gasses pulls air from the damper. In any case, no problem. GFM

[@adambosco6374]

@@grayfurnaceman good news. thank you sir.

[@matts7917]

I have a Williamson Highboy Oil Furnace by Metzger mfg in 1999 and my over fire reading is -1 and overdraft reading is -1 and cant seem to increase my overdraft to -2. Specifications call for -1 to -2 for over fire and -2 to -3 for overdraft. Thoughts? thank you

[@grayfurnaceman]

You can't get a high overfire draft if your smoke pipe draft is low. You need to increase the draft up the chimney. First be looking for blockages in the smoke pipe or chimney. Also be sure you have the maximum pitch between the furnace and the chimney. GFM

[@matts7917]

@@grayfurnaceman, my flue pipe is approximately at a 45 degree leading to chimney. My damper face is nowheres close to being level. Could that cause an inaccurate reading or less draft?

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@matts7917 Yes. You can rotate the damper to horizontal. GFM

[@matts7917]

@@grayfurnaceman Thank you Sr, greatly appreciated

[@kommoncents0000]

Is your barometric damper mounted upside down, I have a F. Controls RC type mine is mounted with the weight on top area. Between the furnace and chimmney is an angled flue mostly horizontal, so i have the weight on the left side.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I have seen this done both ways and it works fine either way. GFM

[@bigpardner]

www.fieldcontrols.com/draft-controls?page_id=193 www.fieldcontrols.com/filebin/pdfs/Instruction_Manuals/02702600_BAROMETRIC_DC_RC_4-7_RevC_04-15.pdf

[@grayfurnaceman]

You definitely need one and it should be adjusted with the use of a manometer. GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

Dampers are there to reduce draft. You do not seem to have enough. Be sure the smoke pipe and chimney are clear. Heat exchanger could also be plugged. GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@biker55555]

How would I adjust a single barometric damper that services both an oil boiler and an oil hot water heater? Would I adjust it for the boiler or the hot water heater? if the boiler, how would it affect the hot water heater and what happens when they fire both at the same time? These situations are not addressed in the video :( Thanks!

[@JOutterbridge]

is upside down bad? and what size damper is that. Do the backside counter weights ever need adjusting?

[@kennyplay5982]

Hello. What should the high and low temp be set at? . And the differential? Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

+kenny play Fan switch or aqua stat? As in forced air furnace or boiler. GFM

[@bobdegraw1677]

can i angle my becket oil burner vent pipe in my attic which is about 6' in length in order to get it on back side of roof ridge ? Beckett NX burner, high efficiency furnace. Pipe is b vent. thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

You can, but you must maintain at least 1/4" per foot rise in the horizontal run. GFM

[@tomval4407]

What is that probe that you have attached to your manometer tube? Is that just a piece of copper tubing?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Tom Val That's all it is. GFM

[@tomval4407]

Thanks!!

[@ghostridergr8259]

what is the problem and what we haft to do if the depression is out of burner table ?

[@bobbrua8758]

nice video where did you get your tester at like it

[@grayfurnaceman]

That tool is an Amazon special but it works well and is accurate. GFM

[@chuckswanson2397]

Where did you buy the probe that goes on the end of tube. I see your GSI video, but probe end not included. Thanks!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Chuck Swanson I think that's just a 3/16" piece of copper tube. The small pressures here do not require any special end on the tube. GFM

[@chuckswanson2397]

grayfurnaceman Thanks!

[@reidarbrenden5704]

Thanks for a good video. What gauge are you using to measure the pressure?

[@grayfurnaceman]

That's an Ebay special. Works well though. GFM

[@reidarbrenden5704]

@@grayfurnaceman What is the mesurment in ? inch/H2o ?

[@grayfurnaceman]

In wc. GFM

[@bigpardner]

When I have my boiler adjusted the best I can, testing draft over fire and 0 smoke, at times, cold weather, the damper gets maxed out, running wide open. Wasteful sucking all that warm air up the chimney to keep the boiler to spec. Any acceptable way to decrease the draft of the chimney? I have stuck some bricks in the hole where the stack goes in the chimney and it helps a bit. Can't see any harm as I still have plenty of draft in summer and bricks don't burn. Replaced all of the turbulators awhile back, 18, with twisted spiral ones. Stack temperature down to more acceptable level now.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Do you have a barometric damper? GFM

[@bigpardner]

Yes. Under some conditions it is open all the way, although I never checked to see what effect this has on the boiler. I guess it would increase the draft but to any harmful effect I don't know. Anyway, it's a lot of air going up the chimney to balance the combustion draft.

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@bigpardner The barometric is there to reduce draft. You can get an outside air adaptor for barometric draft dampers. GFM

[@bigpardner]

Thanks for replying to so many of our questions.The damper is certainly reducing the draft-through the boiler-but when it is maxed out under very cold weather I assume the draft through the boiler rises above what it should be. I adjust for -.01--.02 but usually not in winter. Guess I should test it when this happens to see how much it rises. I've thought about outside air, which in my case should be easy as there is an unused duct left over from previous owner having a Jennair downdraft grill above in the kitchen that goes outside, passing right through the boiler room. . It has an outside vent working in the wrong direction though. Since the boiler is in it's own small room I've thought about just supplying outside air to the room and try using something like a barometric damper to let the air in based on need for it. That still wouldn't prevent the draft of the chimney exceeding the stack damper's capability to adjust for it. I think I recall reading somewhere about using two dampers but that's more metal work than I want to get involved in. I'll wait and test the draft once it gets cold, but was wondering if there is an acceptable way to reduce chimney draft.

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@bigpardner The barometric is the only way I know. GFM

[@richardfossani6421]

where did you get your draft gauge, I like it.

[@grayfurnaceman]

That's an Amazon special. And yes it works fine. GFM

[@tamerthehun9536]

Mine blew off and flew 10’ yesterday , any answer to that?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Put it back on, lol. Seriously, you have had a blowback (read kaboom). This was probably due to delayed ignition. First, you need to check the heat exchanger and smoke pipe for soot. Clean the soot out, and service the burner. GFM

[@tamerthehun9536]

@@grayfurnaceman thank you. had to disassemble the unit and clean it up!

[@markbean8614]

Wondering why your manometer is showing a positive pressure draft instead of NEGATIVE (-) .02 and .04 respectively?

[@markbean8614]

nevermind... Didn't notice previous posts

[@grayfurnaceman]

Mark Bean It is on the wrong side of the tool. I tend not to pay much attention. The number is the important part. GFM

[@hvac01453]

Thats a shop environment, not an actual install. you wouldn't put your access hole there so close to the damper, thats why he kept trying to aim it down in the video... with 3 feet of pipe, it would be easier for him to show Im sure...

[@paintchip392]

I measure .035-.04 in the over fire position and .035 (this the maximum I can get with the damper fully closed) in the flue ahead of the damper. Is my chimney too short? How do you reduce the vacuum in the burner area? It has a screw on the observation flap into the burner area - is the idea to open that to drop the over fire pressure? Also, I'm getting a small amount of smoke back into the building. How is that possible with a vacuum in the vent - again, is the chimney too short? It sticks up about 2 ft over the peak but there is another building next to it that is taller.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Your readings are probably not accurate. It is common on older furnaces to have no drop between overfire and vent is common in some older furnaces but overfire cannot be lower vacuum than vent. As for the smell. If the smell comes only in the morning, you may have a cold start rumble on startup. This is the furnace not establishing draft on a cold vent. You could also have a negative pressure in the structure. GFM

[@markbean8614]

If you have a damper that you completely open with the weight slid all the way down and still get a negative pressure reading of more than .04, can you elaborate on the issue? Flue vent not high enough over roof? Anything else that could cause this???

[@hvac01453]

sounds like your chimney is a vacuum cleaner... your exhaust temps will be high too. Slow it down... I saw something in a book that showed a slot cut in the exhaust pipe and a strip of metal inserted in it to choke it down a bit, then it was sealed in with high temp silicone. Make sure you have the right size stove pipe..

[@OK-zn9su]

This device is at the bottom edge of it's scale, how you can say it is 0.01 or 0.02 difference? Could as well be 0.03 or less than 0.01. Considering the measurement on top was made with tube pointing down, toward the stream of running gasses which would slightly increase readings due to dynamic pressure added, I'd say static pressure difference is 0.01 or less. Need more precise or analog device here to tell better.

[@frankmashione139]

Do you know what would cause the damper to Slap close from time to time Would it have to do with positive pressure in house or possible short cycling of burner?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Its from a positive pressure (wind?) in the vent or a negative pressure in the structure. GFM

[@frankmashione139]

Thank you

[@kennyplay5982]

I believe my differential control is 10-15-20. .. With cast 180-220 is 40.

[@grayfurnaceman]

+kenny play What model control do you have? GFM

[@oneeyedrone4293]

Reasons like this, can’t wait to get ride of our oil furnace at the cottage. Such a problematic system, dirty, issues, just junk and needs to be replaced by the future. Keep diesel in trucks Great info but just such a useless mode of heating

[@aspencedr8182]

when our oil furnace is not running , we have quite the downdraft , that blows out into the furnace room via the damper , with the -20 degrees C this is a real lose in heat. are there any dampers that are better at being airtight than others when not in use.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The problem is not the damper, it is the negative pressure in the structure. I am surprised that the furnace does not rumble on startup. I would be looking for leaks in the upper level that are leaking warm air out. GFM

[@aspencedr8182]

thanks for feedback , will look further...

[@andrewoshea9596]

What kind of end do you have on the tubing?

[@grayfurnaceman]

It is a section of 1/4" copper tubing. GFM

[@yamy125]

Hi GFM. I have what looks like the same model manometer as yours, but can't seem to get an accurate reading out of it below 0.10 (as in it seems to only start reading from 0.10 and then up in 0.01 increments - 0.00 reading prior to that). It is a HT-1890 readily available on eBay and might not be the same as yours. I can't see from the video where you have the other hose/probe you aren't using, or is it just hanging down and not important? Does it need to be connected and at the same length as the hose you are testing with? The "instructions" that came with the unit aren't any help... Cheers

[@grayfurnaceman]

Sounds like junk to me. lt does not need the other hose. GFM

[@yamy125]

Thanks. I figured that might be the case. Do you have specific model or a link to the one you use? Mine looks identical, but clearly isn't.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Its been so long since I got that one, I don't remember the source. You might check my channel under the playlist "tools". I think I did a video on it when I got it. GFM

[@hvac01453]

sometimes people want to test them so they blow in them like a balloon and knock the hell out of the calibration...

[@ghostridergr8259]

many questions :-) if i have to mutc noise of the burner noiller and exsaust , waht can i make to minimise the sound? i must play with the head to open it or close it? the air ? smaller nozzle? put in your mide , i cant change the pipe of exsaust because many people they dont want toi give moeny for that , so i want a solution with that !

[@hvac01453]

a penney wise, a pound foolish,....

[@GlennMarshallRocks]

What are you even talking about...? Talk to your HVAC technician the next time you have the system cleaned. Maybe they'll be able to understand you and answer your questions... but it certainly doesn't sound like it has anything to do with adjusting the barometric damper at all.

[@ghostridergr8259]

you can control the depression off boiler with that way?

[@grayfurnaceman]

I don't understand what you mean by "depression". GFM

[@ggarl12]

My vent is always open . Even while the boiler is not running. Is that not oka?

[@grayfurnaceman]

It is probably open because of a positive pressure in the structure. May not be much you can do about it. GFM

[@jonathangreenblume8583]

What's the gauge you're using? Can I get it at Home Depot, etc.?

[@grayfurnaceman]

That's an eBay special. Look up digital manometer. GFM

[@kevinkong6653]

What tool is that?

[@GlennMarshallRocks]

It's a Manometer (Air Pressure Meter and Differential Pressure Gauge; aka an HVAC Gas Pressure Tester).

[@patcupolo9274]

If your at .04 draft at breech, with .02 over fire you have one clean boiler.

[@GlennMarshallRocks]

So, he's working on a clean boiler... so what...? not to mention the draft is adjustable... again, so what...?

[@domdell6777]

GR8 VIDS! I WATCHED MANY.help??? mega info :) I CANT GET MY BECKET RUNNING RIGHT.theres a few things going on. the gap is even with the nozzle.only the electrodes stick past it.like theres no space.between the two.yet the elec is 1/16 past the nozzle technicly. their flat/no points and i see after 1 day the carbon is scoring on the bottom 1/8 on boyh electrodes.no scoring on nozzle..but nozzle has a darkish droplet stuck to its bottom.once it croaks totally i remove the gun,line and scrape everything down n it runs for a few hours... ITS STALLING AFTER 1 MIN THEN LLOCK OUT>pump goes 20sec b4 lock out " " " 2 min "" stumbles every 20 sec...sometime 1min..sometime never thru a cycle up to 12 min.. i jumped the cad eye no difference..ohms are 1500 off 500 on ....sometimes after it wont run past a min...40min later it WILL RUN A WHOLE CYCLE but stumble and catch stumbles usually 1/2 second..the longer it stubles the better chance it wont recatch.. again it wont run past 1 minute...it always runs dead for 20-30 secs b4 lock out. if i shut the heat off after a lockout.it will reset itself... just had full tune up. spark is hella strong!!looked too strong compared to utube tests...the aqua stat hums lightly..flame is bright orange/yellowish...on restart i never see a puff of smoke...IF IT DIES..I CAN TURN THE ON/OFF SWITCH AND IT WILL LIGHT RIGHT BACK UP FOR A MINUTE AT LEAST...once the on/off switch wouldnt even trigger the cad box took 10min to reset somehow....theres a spring loaded check valve in the gun fuel line im getn susiscious of..i blow the line out by mouth and oil comes out in a straight stream pretty easy..the B.damper dances pretty hard constantly.seems like somethings killing spark,,those 20ish seconds the pump is going w/out fire,i see no light thru the crevices and cracks by the coil..sometimes it runs nice catches every stumble fast..sometimes it does the 1min/2min thing or 40sec. its like a crapshoot everytime it clicks on!!!!!!! when i take the tiny oil line off to remove gun,i never see any dripping oil.yet the gun is 30%full.?also under the gun i s wet. not much just a thin coat..it never ignites,it might be moisture 4 all i know.

[@trankt54155]

How can I get a pressure gauge like that ? Thanks.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I got that one on eBay. GFM

[@trankt54155]

@@grayfurnaceman Thank you. What do you call that meter with a high temp probe----ie manometer, etc?

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@trankt54155 Its a pyrometer. Just means a probe capable of reading temps above about 700F. GFM

[@trankt54155]

@@grayfurnaceman Thank you very much. Have a productive day.

[@andrewinters1]

I just bought the same manometer. I’m confused. What unit of measurement to I set it on for the same testing you show in the video?

[@grayfurnaceman]

I generally use inches water column. (in wc) GFM

[@allanlang1662]

My manometer says (InH2O) for wc, I think but on that setting I get no readings. If I use (ozin2), I get readings that look normal...? Looks like the exact manometer you used in the video. Is ozin2 unit ok? Also, this boiler has no heat exchanger, it heats water for radiators. Just cleaned the cast iron grills and it read .03 over fire, and .03 to .04 in breech. Hole in breech is 12" above top of boiler. Am I good to go?

[@grayfurnaceman]

I think you are good to go. GFM

[@joebal9044]

GFM, Where did you source the prob at the end of your manometer? Can I use the static pressure probes like the one I use for my AC system for this? (I assume yes).

[@grayfurnaceman]

Actually, I just used a piece of copper tube. The velocity is low enough that nothing special is needed. GFM

[@paulymars]

He said negative draft. That is positive pressure, right? Opposed to when he said draft. I thought flue should be less then overfire. Less as in more negative.

[@grayfurnaceman]

All draft should be negative pressure. Positive pressure will result in smoke entering the structure. GFM

[@Trapshooter37]

What if you don't have a barometric damper?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Some units do not come with barometric dampers. Some should have one but do not. The furnace may run normally, but its efficiency will low because of excessive draft. GFM

[@justin-time1479]

What would cause a damper to slam back and forth ?

[@grayfurnaceman]

justin m Sounds like a failure to draft. Check the heat exchanger and chimney. It could be plugged. Hope this helps. GFM

[@AKShishir]

That is a good vedio

[@antoniosantiago2770]

I have the manometer where I get that prove. Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

Are you asking where to put the probe? Upstream of the damper. GFM

[@antoniosantiago2770]

@@grayfurnaceman I'm asking for the probe used. I need you used it up stream and to ch6dradt over fire

[@antoniosantiago2770]

Check draft *

[@antoniosantiago2770]

Will any probe work like the 90 on a sdm6 manometer

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@antoniosantiago2770 The probe design is not important. GFM

[@larrycurrier290]

you're either in the middle of the Windstorm or your oil burn is running like s***

[@HGR693]

my boiler has the baro damper mounted horizonally at the rioght side of my boiler. The main stack, goes out to the left and runs about 40ft, to a power venter. The damper has the adjustment weight located at the top of the valve. is the correct position? in your video, i see the adjustment screw at the bottom. Which position is correct? Thank you.

[@grayfurnaceman]

They will actually work both ways. GFM

[@jspinosa50]

The reason for a barometric damper is to maintain a constant pressure in the firebox.

[@GlennMarshallRocks]

It is NOT simply to maintain a "constant pressure" in the firebox, it is to maintain the "right" pressure in the firebox. If the barometric damper is not adjusted properly and the pressure is too high going up the chimney, then you are sending heat out of the chimney rather than heating the house, and wasting valuable fuel oil. The reason for adjusting the barometric damper is to slow the draft down going over the firebox, keep the heat in the box where it can be used to heat the house, and to keep your heating efficiency at its peak. Considering the massive increase in the cost of fuel expected to occur even beyond what what it's already at, which is already nearly double what it was last year, everyone should be concerned with getting every BTU available out of every drop of oil. This means having a properly cleaned and tuned up boiler, and that includes having their barometric damper tested and, if need be, adjusted. If the barometric damper is not adjusted properly, one can be sending money right up the chimney and not even realize a simply adjustment could have saved that money while trying to stay warm this winter.

[@jspinosa50]

@@GlennMarshallRocks A constant pressure means exactly what you're saying, with less detail. Good explanation.

[@GlennMarshallRocks]

@@jspinosa50 - Sorry, but no... the purpose of a barometric damper control is not simply to "maintain constant pressure"... and "maintaining constant pressure" is certainly not "the same" as what was explained. If you think that it is, then you misunderstood what was explained entirely. What was explained was that if the pressure is adjusted for pressure that is too high, that is not good, and can be damaging to the system, as well as uneconomical, allowing heat to escape and be lost up the chimney rather than utilized to heat ones home. Conversely, if the pressure is adjusted too low, that is not good, and can cause the system to overheat, damage the boiler, and cause blowback of oil fumes into the home upon startup. So, again, the purpose of the barometric damper control is NOT to "maintain a constant pressure in the firebox". The purpose is to allow one to adjust the airflow to the "right pressure", and to maintain the "right pressure" of the airflow going over the firebox as the boiler operates... Hence, the purpose of this video, which was about adjusting the barometric damper to achieve the "right pressure" for the airflow going over the firebox, and NOT simply about maintaining a "constant pressure", which could be too high or too low, with both being incorrect and potentially damaging to the system, as well as less than ideal economically. Obviously, "maintaining constant pressure" is NOT the same thing, nor the specific purpose of the mechanism, which is to allow one to adjust the rate of the airflow, and to maintain "the right pressure" of that airflow, which was the whole point of the video.

[@sirhc07]

@@GlennMarshallRocks how far should the barometric damper be from the breach of the furnace is there a precise measurement or no greater or less than

[@misterindependent7994]

What if you can't get more than about .02in/wc at the damper. Heat exchanger? Vent size? More likely all sootted up. Do to years of improper combustion.

[@grayfurnaceman]

A low negative pressure at the damper indicates a chimney blockage or defective chimney. GFM

[@misterindependent7994]

I checked and confirmed no blockage in the flue.

[@misterindependent7994]

It's a Rheem 3ton oil furnace. The installer used 6" vent pipe.

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@misterindependent7994 The venting could be too small. GFM

[@misterindependent7994]

In my mind I'm thinking the negative pressure would increase with a smaller vent. It runs great for about 5-8 mins then it starts to choke out. The nameplate calls for .04in/wc for the draft, and we're at about .01-.02in/wc. 🤯