How To: Shapeoko Pro Calibration, Tramming & Surfacing | CNC Router Woodworking

[@Samcraftcom]

🔗Collet Wrenches: amzn.to/35dgZam & amzn.to/3rVLJqn 🔗 Mini Wireless Keyboard: amzn.to/3bdP7Hk 🔗Surfacing Bit: amzn.to/38f3CbR 🔗Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3bd8VKA 🔗Feeler Gauges: amzn.to/35eG7Oe 🔗1, 2, 3, Machinist Blocks: amzn.to/2MwYc3n 🔗Calibration Video Reference: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWWviaKofNtggsU 🔗Shapeoko Facebook Group: facebook.com/groups/unofficialshapeoko 🔗Carveco Maker: carveco.com/ 🔗My Website: sam-craft.com

[@gradycody9006]

instablaster.

[@michaelmessuri7746]

OMG!! the cheap set of feeler gauges solution is exactly what I need to solve my problem with my 1010. Thanks a ton as I was really struggling to figure out a solution.

[@ducharmedale]

Great tip about sacrificing a feeler gauge!! That took about an hour off my tramming time!

[@Samcraftcom]

Glad it helped!

[@HoneyHollowHomestead]

It might have been boring, but I needed to hear a friendly voice this morning and it happened to be yours. Thanks for posting a video.

[@LongTailWoodcraft]

Hey @Samcraft I use that exact same surfacing bit. My fix for using it is to, in Carbide Motion, move the bitsetter location a few millimeters to the left, so one of the cutting teeth hit the bitsetter top surface. There should be enough overlap still so that e.g. a 90 degree V carving bit will still touch the bitsetter, although it won't be dead center.

[@mv7967]

Sam, I enjoy your videos. Your sense of humor is subtle. I like it. I really didn't understand everything you are talking about, but it's interesting. I have a friend who was a machinist, he's retired like me. He loves to talk about that stuff. Thanks for the video.

[@VictorTellez-q4u]

Good point about the Bitsaver measuring from the center of the surfacing bit instead of the edge of the cutting blade. I surfaced a couple of cutting boards and the first time I did cut a deeper pocket than what I wanted. I adjusted the setting to make a cut that wasn’t as deep as the first board and it cut the surface depth that I was trying to hit.

[@mjbrown1249]

Hi Sam, you are about 4-6 weeks ahead of me with your machine. I ordered mine a couple of weeks ago so I am watching your channel with a vested interest. Keep em coming.

[@Samcraftcom]

Awesome! I'm very glad to be able to offer this content for you then! You'll be able to learn from my mistakes and be even further along out the gate! :)

[@SMS14411]

Same here. Ordered mine Dec 23 and looking for an email saying "It's on the way!", but I've seen nothing yet. But I did build a nice big table with walls and ceiling to deaden the sound. I'm Soooo excited and Sam encourages my excitement. Thanks Sam!

[@jvernice]

Thanks for your video. Your process for checking square is faulty because the sacrificial boards could be off. You should check by moving the spindle X0 and Xmax and Y0 and Ymax and sinking a hole at each point. Then measure diagonals.

[@waskito3443]

I've tried this strategy years ago with the 123 blocks and can confidently say that it doesn't work because the holder will buckle and move in different directions depending on which screw you screw in first. The strategy I've had the most amount of luck with it to get a square flat surface and then to just use a square. Once that is done I mill a piece of aluminum with a .001 depth vertically to determine how much to shim the holder on either the top or bottom, once the y axis is +_ .002 square I run the same operation horizontally and square that.

[@mlm7598]

Good to see you working with your new machine......I am sure you are loving it no matter the frustration of learning a new tool/toy. I can't wait to see what you do with it.......looks awesome and like an exciting tool to make some cool stuff. Enjoy it and have fun! Blessings

[@martyn1678]

awesome to see you again sam, i too didnt like the pocketed bed on my machine either so what i did was, take the inserts out and cut them to a length that the machine could reach and put them back,i then planed some peices up so they are lower at the back to replace the bits id cut off that the machine carnt reach making sure there slightly lower than the bed. As for the far right and left inserts i took those off and dropped my saw so it was just high enough and ripped the bit it had missed off again slightly lower. dont know if that makes sense, any how great video👍

[@shaunmc45]

Thanks a lot for this video and the links, Sam.

[@maddogwalby]

Thanks for the video, I picked up a few tricks as I am getting ready to tram my CNC (again), however mine is out of square and I was wanting to see how others were fixing that. Since yours was square you didn't cover how you would fix that. Also when I was adjusting my spindle I used aluminum foil for shims, but if you have feeler gauges to sacrifice that takes the guess work out of how many layers of foil to use.

[@rogersecura378]

Sam, I had the same problems you had when I first tried to tram my router motor. The paper method is useless! So I designed a fixture using four socket head screws (thumb screws) to dial in a level reference surface (12” x 12” mirror). If you or your viewers are interested, you can find the fixture instructions in the “How to TRAM your CNC Router article I had published below: “Laser Alignment System for your CNC Router” - SERVO magazine, published in Issue 1, 2020, p.61 “CNC Routers: The Z-Axis Zero Setter” - SERVO magazine, published in Issue 4, 2019, p.40 “How to ‘TRAM’ your CNC Router” - SERVO magazine, published in Issue 3, 2019, p.62 “Make a spring loaded Pen Holder for your CNC Router” - SERVO magazine, published Mar/April 2019, p.46 “CNC Routers: Backlash - What is it? How to measure it” - Nuts and Volts magazine, published Mar/April 2019, p.36 “Beginner’s Guide to CNC Routers” - SERVO magazine, published 2/1/2018, p.46

[@resorter66]

Sam what router.do you have the other thing do your collets snap into the nut How about doing a video on how to disable enable the bit setter

[@resorter66]

Sam I have the xxl Pro too When I checked my squareness I got the same 56 15/16'

[@chrisc.4630]

Great vid as always, Sam. You've become my Shapeoko mentor. I appreciate everything you're doing. One little thing though. The work area of the SP3 is actually 34x34, not 34x33 as you said. The router can actually extend about an inch beyond the front of the table. That inch could be useful for clamping pieces vertically for things like dovetail and box joints. Anyway, I didn't want to see you shorting yourself.

[@iwannaratrod]

Getting a level surface to tram with is easiest accomplished by first leveling he wasteboard. Even if it isn't trammed the peaks will all be the same height, thus level. Then do your tramming routine, then resurface. :)

[@Samcraftcom]

Good point... oh the time that would have saved!!! I'm sure there will be a "next time" LOL Thanks Josh!

[@gjsindbq2427]

Was thinking about your issue with the bitsetter and cutting too deep. What if you attached one or more spacers (like washers) between the cutting teeth with double sided tape and at the depth of the teeth. Then when the bit is set it will register at the same depth as the teeth. Hope I explained that clearly. By the way... I find your information very useful. Keep it up.

[@simpleman2627]

I been a machinist/tool and die for 22 yrs. You should be able to make simple macro program for your touch off of your tools, or have a manual touch off mode, or im not familiar with this machine, but you can measure the difference in the touch off spot and the cutter edge then either change the offsets for the tool or change the length of the tool in your offset to lie to the machine. One of these options should fix the problem of cutter depth.... the easiest option for someone learning is probably- Being a cnc machine im sure there are offsets, measure the difference in the tool from where it touches to the cutting edge, then change the offsets by that amount. This is also how you would compensate on your x and y for cutter comp. Example. If you have a 3/8 endmill that measures. 370 instead of .375 and your cutting a .490 slot, you either need to reprogram everytime you run the program or you just change the offsets. Sorry if this is confusing.

[@built_by_kai9006]

I had the exact same problem with trying to set the z zero using the bitsetter and my surfacing bit, so I just decided to use a flat head screwdriver (so when the tool comes close to the bitsetter it hits the screwdriver at the same time that it would normally hit the bitsetter). Or you could re set the bitsetter position in carbide motion to fit the surfacing bit, and change it back later. Hope this helps.

[@mrgoodtime87]

So ideally if all is perfect, there will be no lines after surfacing? With the router out of the mount? i used a good mini level and the bubble was dead nuts in the center...thats gotta bee good enough for signs lol

[@fugops]

Any info or perhaps a video on how to connect the mini wireless key board! Thanks

[@Samcraftcom]

You just plug it into the computer running the CNC.

[@bryanslittlegarage5724]

We all make mistakes Sam love watching and learning. Would be cool to meet you and talk about wood working

[@manofomega5268]

Do you have information on how to fix Rapid Position on a Shapeoko XXL Pro. The left side and center do not go to the correct positions (wayyy off). Is this a calibration issue or software issue? Just asking.

[@ga1205]

I'm almost done assembling my Pro XXL. How necessary are all the tramming steps? Also, I figured surfacing is necessary but I'm concerned about the pocket you ended up with since I plan on doing pieces that are longer than the Shapeoko table and don't want to end up with an uneven surface. So now I'm wondering if I should do a surfacing job or if I should shim stock instead. Thanks.

[@resorter66]

Have a question .What bit did you use use in your router to start the machine up to home it .And then when you changed to the surface bit and it moved over to the bit setter what part of the bit pushed against the button. one of the cutters .or what? Thanks Jeff

[@OrtizWoodworks]

Hey Sam, Does that controller come with the Shapeoko?

[@srgilleland]

Sam, awesome videos. I'm just getting started with my little router (not a Shapeoko, although that will be coming this year. Btw, you're a good salesman for them. You need commisions.). I have a good background in CNC (20 years) but in very big CNC Plasma cutters for the steel and fabrication industry. But each CNC is slightly different and I've learned from you, so thanks for that. I have subscribed and I look forward to learning more from you.

[@Samcraftcom]

Wow, I take that as a big compliment, thanks!

[@bstanga]

have you considered getting a spindle? they are much quieter than that router

[@Samcraftcom]

Sure would love one!

[@adamscoggins4553]

How far out was it when you started? I ordered one and it should he here soon. I want to know how important this step is please.

[@Samcraftcom]

If I remember correctly, it was about a month and half to delivery... BUT I was one of the first to order the XXL Pro when it was freshly released.

[@resorter66]

Sam what thickness glass did you use I would think that if it was 1/8" or less you could get deflection in the glass with your dial indicator moving over the glass also would you share you numbers that you settled on did your glass lay flat on the wasteboard Also Sam are you using the carbide router if when you put it in the holder block did the router go all the way down to where it was just are down as it would .thanks Jeff

[@kevinhubbard8142]

I was thinking the same thing. I used 1\2 inch glass and it worked well. If you go to a business that supplies glass they well usually give you some scraps. You could probably stack a few layers if thinner glass.

[@stvcolwill]

SAM, I wonder if the bottom aluminum slats are machined flat. If so , the then after initially Surfacing my wasteboard, I can then turn the slats around or swap them out (ends to the center) and run the same surface job until all is flat. I only say this because I have the XL (the only one available to buy this entire last month) and I plan on making a PARF (MFT) board with the pattern of 20mm holes in the mdf sheet. I plan on doing a 48x36" sheet and have to do it in a couple of passes (or maybe even three)... by moving the board through front to back and letting it do it's thing in a couple of cutting operations each. HAVING that pocket scares me enough to contemplate not surfacing it because I need the entire width of the waste board even though I'm not cutting to the edge. make sense? I think I'm going to bite the bullet and surface and round-robin them anyways.

[@alighafuri7656]

How important do you think it is if all I'm going to be doing is woodworking? Is the work and effort noticeable?

[@Samcraftcom]

I would say it's pretty important. I only plan to do woodworking and still went though the process. I'm glad I did, too. The two big benefits I have seen already are: 1. I am not cutting into my wasteboard as much with cutout jobs. Beforehand it would cut deeper in some spots than others (leveling the wasteboard affected this the most). 2. For any area clearance toolpaths (pocketing), having the router properly trammed will give you a smoother bottom and means less sanding or cleanup work afterwards -- saving some finish work time.

[@EBussom]

I have no idea what you said, but it sounded great!

[@betoasaber69]

The collet wrenches you use in this video, what size are they? Tryin to order some from Amazon

[@Samcraftcom]

They're linked in the video description -- exact sizes for the carbide router.

[@homezero]

Hello, I saw what was happening with the touch off on the BitSetter. You could have set the Z with the touch plate if you have one. Or Bit Zero V2 as Shapeoko calls it.

[@kentuckyblitz]

What handheld controller are you using to move your cnc?

[@Samcraftcom]

All the links should be in the description, but it's just a wireless keyboard. I've since changed to using a Fusion5 tablet for all CNC & Laser Engraver control.

[@SunridgeStudio]

Great video Sam! I was looking for the wrench, as my wrench provided by the router was bended already.

[@Samcraftcom]

Thanks! The Park Tool wrenches are really good, I tossed my old one real quick after getting these. :)

[@ARod1108]

Damn Sam. Nerdy and boujee with your new CNC. Lol great video man.

[@TheWoodHaven]

Hmmm. If I'm not mistaken, I heard you say something about branding irons. Let me know if you ever start taking orders.

[@SMS14411]

When I get mine, that is one of the things I want to try :) I can't wait.

[@JakeApperson]

Look into pwncnc.com and the depth setter jigs with the shaft collars. I personally HATED bit changes even with the bit setter on my machine. Once I ran across that jig and those collars on a video by Full Steam Designs it was game changing. Great video again Sam!

[@martyn1678]

just had another though you could glue some new wood insert ontop of the machined area to raise you working area up out of the pocket above the area you carnt reach then resurface it again. rip it up before you glue it down to maintain your slots

[@RealDustyChandler]

Anybody know where to get more mdf strips from?

[@LandtoHouse]

For future projects will you cut into the base? Wondering if it was learning curve or if the base is to be replaced periodically?

[@heistking]

Yes they are both true there will be time when you want to cut into your waste board. Eventually want to replace it.

[@JimDockrellWatertone]

Could you have just changed the Z in program to make a lighter cut?

[@johnprosser2142]

Hi Sam, I am considering buying a Shapeoko pro XXL and have been watching your videos and have appreciated them greatly thank you! there are two questions I would like to ask you please. my first question is about the belts. do you think they will be durable and long-lasting, have you had any problems with them and do they need retention in? After you faced the waste board did you need to change any depth settings including for the Bitsetor? Thanks heaps Sam!

[@onguardmedia6107]

Hi Sam I hope you are doing well and your loved ones. I am planning to buy this machine but I don't have any experience and I am little worry about how difficult is operating this machine.

[@Samcraftcom]

There is a bit of a learning curve and you'll have to have a strong interest in computer design since all projects start in your CAD program on the computer.

[@clydedecker765]

Sam, you do need to review the "I simply Build It" channel. He does a great job of setting up for tramming and initializing a cut. He does a couple of mods that might be useful for yours.-- especially that blade height thingamabob.

[@SMS14411]

How did you set up to use a controller with your Shapeoko? What kind of controller is it and where can I find information on how to set up to use one instead of using a keyboard. Thanks :) Oh, Love your videos! Oops, I see where you got the controller now. But not sure how you set it up to work with your shapeoko

[@Samcraftcom]

The controller is just a mini USB keyboard that plugs into the computer used to run the CNC. I have since changed over to using a tablet for all my uses as the keyboard was a little small for my likes and the touchscreen on the tablet works really well. I purchased a Fusion5 Windows tablet and have been using it for a month or more now and really like it! I've been waiting to get real-life experiences with it before making a video, but one should be out soon. Here's the tablet if you're curious: amzn.to/36XBTvd

[@SMS14411]

@@Samcraftcom Great, thank you for the info.

[@steggy7421]

On the bitsetter thing with the surfacing bit - comment out the tool change in the gcode - put parans around the "M6Txxx" and re-zero the Z

[@austinshaner]

Am I crazy or did your tramming method basically do nothing? You created a reference surface (glass) perpendicular to your un-trammed spindle - then proceeded to tram it to that surface? Wouldn't that effectively put it right back to where you had it? Scratches noggin. Feels like you would have been better served by not shimming your glass so you can approximate the plane of your spoilboard (to help compensate for varying thickness of the MDF) - then simply tram your spindle to that glass until the dial read 0. Or maybe better, use the indicator on a magnetic base - stick it to the spindle, and put the dial horizontally to measure off of the side extrusions. Simply jog your Z up and down and it will give you an exact measurement of how far you are off in which direction.

[@carlmhurd]

I had the same thought. I think you could slightly modify the method, if you are going to shim/shift the router mount for all of your tramming instead of rotating the gantry arm, I think you should put the dial gauge on the Z axis directly (no router mount). Then level the glass with the Z-axis plate. Then using that as "level" do the 1-2-3 block installation of the router mount and shim as necessary.

[@austinshaner]

@@carlmhurdAfter thinking about it some more, I think the glass method is intended to create a plane parallel to your gantry. That's actually quite useful to give you something to tram your spindle to, but in order to do that you would have to indicate the glass using a single indicator attached anywhere on your gantry - THEN come back with a spindle mounted tramming bar and shim your spindle in.

[@carlmhurd]

@@austinshaner Yeah I agree with that assessment completely. The method is a great way to go, in fact I am going to be doing it to my SO4 after watching this, but I am glad I am not the only one who thought that something was slightly confusing about the method in the video. If you come up with a good method for mounting the dial indicator on the gantry let me know! (I am thinking double stick tape will work well enough to keep the gauge from moving, but may not be absolutely perfect) Edit: After thinking about this a bit more, I think you have to accept the Z-axis plate into your leveling because that is the only way you get movement in the x-axis. So you tape the dial indicator to the Z-axis plate where the router mount would go for your single point level, do the glass plate shimming, the continue with the rest of the video for tramming/shimming the router mount.

[@Madskillzpb]

You're a nice guy. I like you.

[@davidhelfrich7150]

Boys and their toys😁👍. 🦀

[@iwannaapple7190]

Lol! I just got through twisting my gantry. I had my 77 year old mother twist it for me! It wasn't that hard actually. Not for me anyway.. hehe. Just kidding. It was so easy when I tried it I knew she could do it. After wards I out a 1" wide flattening bit to see if it left track marks and it cut very smooth with no marks at all.

[@TheMakerFactory]

Where is my stapler

[@RobertKohut]

Nice! :-)

[@SteelBladeWoodworks]

Geek On!!! LOl JK, Great video!!!!

[@Samcraftcom]

Thanks! 😁

[@paulbilyeu474]

next time adjust the cut by the diffrence between the carbide and thee center of the bit

[@kbent88]

The problem with the park wrenches is that the smallest they come in is 13mm...and the router shaft flats are 12mm. loose fit and they damage the router. Do not recommend.

[@sledhead-mc5ow]

its a spoil board not spool board

[@outpostcamp]

This is not for the average woodworker. You need a lot of computer savvy to make this work. No doubt.

[@Samcraftcom]

Yes, you absolutely do. Every project starts on the computer with a CNC. 😎

[@funfreq9282]

Actually it's not really that hard with reference to being computer savvy. For basic 2D cuts Carbide create and Carbide motion are very simple to use they do all of the coding for you. Plenty of YT tutorials on how to use the software.

[@OldManGaming69]

Surely your zeroing didn't zero to the blades of your flattening tool as the blades are on the outside of the tool and your probe tool looked like it touched the inside. Edit: sorry I didn't see the end of your vid :). The only reason I said this was because I had the same thing.

[@coulterjb22]

Your pain is our gain. Thanks for sharing. I just ordered a SoProXL. I wont need larger. After hearing what you said about cutting too deep, I might try using the bitsetter and then the BitZero(?) to set the Z height before surfacing mine. We’ll see.