How To Solder Aviation Panel Mounts / Chassis Socket Connectors

In this video I re-solder the aviation panel mounts for the stepper drivers which I didn’t do particular well. Between part 13 and this video the process of soldering panel mounts finally clicked and I decided to share the revelations which made this process a lot easier.
These include:
1) Making sure your components are not too cold and you are not soldering in a very cold area.
2) Cleaning the contacts with mentholated spirit.
3) Using a clean soldering iron and the appropriate tip.
4) Using good quality solder which has silver to help bind to stainless steel pins.
5) Hold your pieces down so they don’t move.
6) Make sure you tin (apply a small mount of solder) the opposite end of each surface you are going to join.
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[@vanlifeforgoldenrhodes]

Another first time solderer here. I SWEAR I WAS JUST ABOUT TO GIVE UP!!!! Then I decided to try to find another way to solder. Thank you so much for this video. I'm in dire need to solder to an aviator plug for my diesel space heater in this winter weather. Again, thank you so much.

[@footballmint]

First time solderer here trying to get an aviation plug wired up and omg this video seems like pure genius compared to the way I was trying to do it! Thank you so much!

[@Munky332]

Couple things you could do better: (I do realize this video is old, but maybe someone else can look at this comment and get guidance as well) 1. Clean the tip of your iron more-- as soon as you hit it with the sponge, you have like 30 seconds to solder, otherwise you are introducing oxidation. If it starts to turn yellow, clean it. gently clean it with a paper towel first so as you don't burn a bunch of solder into your sponge. Tin it again before you put it back in the holder 2. No use of flux. Use flux... You had plenty of space here to use it. 3. You tinned the pins too much, you should have tinned them, then used a wick to pull out all the excess you built up.. then used a spare bit of wire to wick out more from the center of the pin, before you actually solder it. 4. Get a set of helping hands to hold the wires in place, it'll make it much easier for positioning. keep as straight (in this case, vertical) wire entry position as possible. 5. Clean!! clean clean clean clean. Use IPA or denatured alcohol and a brush to clean literally everything. Clean your Solder before you use it. Clean your parts before you tin and flux them. Clean afterwards. Get brushes and use them. 6. Hard to tell here, but it looks like your insulators may be cut back a tad far in same cases, or too close in others. rule is that from the connection, it should not exceed 2 wire diameters (including the insulation), but the insulation should not be touching the connection. I generally aim for 1 wire diameter spacing, which is plenty and easy enough to do. 7. Use cutters to cut your solder after every use, get that gunky monkey fist off and expose the clean rosin core, again, so you aren't introducing a bunch of oxidation into the solder 8. When you strip the wires, don't just pull the cut jacket off with the stripper. Leave it on, then pull it off with your fingers while squeezing and twisting, this will keep the wires bunched up perfectly. I'd suggest maybe taking a look at the NASA manual for soldering. It breaks it down pretty simply. I believe there are several videos available demonstrating it here on youtube.

[@EducatingSavvas]

Nasa have a manual for soldering? Is that like for zero gravity electronics? Thanks for the tips though.

[@keebsnstuff3400]

Thank you for this comment, I found it hugely helpful!

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

I have been trying to find the correct way to solder thin circuit wires to a very similar panel mount connector (but for use as a connector socket on a high-end speaker for a computer). Your techniques and practical tips are exactly what I needed for my speaker job. Thanks for demonstrating how to get the job done properly.

Thanks for sharing. Just what I was looking for.

[@billfleming6880]

I am about to solder some GX25-7 's , looked for some advice on youtube and whammo here it is , thanks a million!

[@mattydye6388]

Appreciate you taking the time to make the video! Bit more confidence now for when my plugs arrive.

[@EducatingSavvas]

It just takes practice and a good soldering iron - and maybe a fan.

[@G5Hohn]

it's kind of amazing how effective is that little bit of solder for the heat bridge. Makes a huge difference in heat transfer and effectiveness of soldering.

[@BobSteege]

Good job, looks much better. after a while soldering just clicks.

[@EducatingSavvas]

I actually punched the air when it clicked.

[@DanGoodchild]

Very helpful, thank you!

[@muhaiminmuhammad]

This is really good guide.. Thanks..

[@yasnac7576]

on the male plug you can pull out the pins by grabbing them on the soldered end and pull them out of the base. Overheating of the rubber mount/support will cause the pins to be loose. my light went on too mate!

[@DylanFowler]

Thanks for telling us what the numbers were for the wiring.

[@Papalou1234]

oH MAN YOU ARE A GENIUS YOU MAKE ME SAVE HOURS OF HEAD SCRATCHING ....Thank you so much making this video

[@EducatingSavvas]

Glad it helped!

[@jefflundstrom6878]

really helped! thanks

[@krishna34674]

you got it ! also if you use 1mm solder to tin thick wires your adding more solder faster thus reducing how much the isolation shrinks back. Also adding heat shrink over the individual solder joints would help with the aesthetics.

[@EducatingSavvas]

Yeah for some reason I imagined a thinner solder would melt quicker but I have to be a lot quicker pushing it into the area I heated.

[@woowididit]

Hi there, thank you for posting this video, really helpful Quick tip To help control the heat, dissipation and deforming, the pins it’s best to connect the female and male together when soldering, some people think it will take longer to heat up, but this is false. If you have a good quality soldering iron, which can apply the heat quickly and reduce deforming the pins it helps

[@lubomirstankiewicz9642]

Hi, I did quite a bit of soldering on similar plugs - same half-pipe style. Those were XT-60 RC plugs. What I did, just like you did, was to twist and solder ends of the wire - but I applied some paste flux, then I applied paste flux on the connector - into the half-pipe, placed the tinned end of the wire in the half-pipe and applied heat to the connector while feeding the solder. Then, when solder started melting, it joined pre-tinned wire and remelted the solder creating very clean and strong bond. I only had to add very little solder, when soldering the wire in, as it pulled excess from the wire. I think the paste flux did the trick as it etched the connector a bit allowing for better flow of soldering alloy. You could also try to use SMD soldering paste, it's a mixture of paste flux and solder particulates, it does very clean solder joints but it's somewhat expensive, I paid an equivalent of like 3 GBP per 15g syringe. I hope you or someone else finds those suggestions helpful. Have fun, My CNC project is half done.

[@EducatingSavvas]

Thanks for sharing the information. I am using GX16 and GX12 panel mounts. Good luck with the rest of your CNC build! :)

[@djalejo3926]

Thank you brother

[@jp8479]

Thanks for the tips. Would have expend tons of time and headaches trying to get it right, otherwise.

[@user-gk1rm3oi9q]

Thank you.

[@philipdavies1403]

Thanks heaps for this, was in world of pain

[@reinual]

Thanks, I've been struggling with these exact connector building a controller for my CNC. I'll give these tricks a try... :)

[@eddiesalas4262]

Nice video!! Now I'm not intimidated by soldering.. One question .. is it ok to put heat shrink tubing in every pins ?

[@Heinz19946]

do you have a image that shows me how to wire it to a usb?

[@polakis1975]

Hi. Have noticed you pull very soon the solder iron from the connection. That way you are not letting the solder from the wire and pin to become one solid piece by melting completely. It may seem to be strong but sometimes it fails.

[@EducatingSavvas]

I've been doing the pull test on everything and they're passing with flying colours. Lol

[@gubby5408]

The important point when soldering the cables to the female and male ends is that the same color cable comes to the same pin number on both sides?

[@alexday2373]

Use a liquid flux. It's a game changer

[@pabobeer]

What did you use to test your wiring afterwards (time mark 7:25). I got it soldered and fix but when I plugged it in - sparks and smoke!! Great tutorial - saved me a lot of time.

[@EducatingSavvas]

A voltmeter on the continuity setting - very useful tool.

[@paulcarter7238]

what wire are you using .thanks very good

[@EducatingSavvas]

You mean solder?

[@johnedwards1968]

Thanks for the tips. I've been having a bitch of a time getting a good connection.

[@jayk2k]

So you do not put the wire through the holes in the pins and twist them at the top to itself ?

[@pierregauthier3077]

My solder joints always seem to corrode, and the wire eventually breaks off. Is it the flux causing this? Are you using rosin core or a separate container for your flux?

[@IceTurf]

IS the metal outer jacket (the outer housing) grounded?

[@EducatingSavvas]

If I had a metal housing, or panel that I was connecting these on, that could be grounded but my enclosure panel is plastic, so they are not.

[@G5Hohn]

a little dab of paste flux on those wire ends will literally just suck the solder off the tip and make your tinning much easier.

[@cuvarsnova]

It's the beauty of this. Yesterday I killed myself trying to solder the aviation panel and gave up. Today there is someone I do not know and who does not know me, made my day. I solder everything in 5 minutes. thank you :)~

[@tawficyakubu5116]

Sir what is the name and size of cable you used to connect the aviation connectors?

[@EducatingSavvas]

I think it was Alpha Wire screened industrial cable from RS components.

[@shilimkarnv1]

Pls make video on 15 pin connector

[@EducatingSavvas]

Lol

[@williamwmcqiv6157]

Are you using a flux?

[@Duraltia]

You may actually want to redirect people to this 9 Step Soldering Lesson: kzbin.info/aero/PL926EC0F1F93C1837 At least that's where I got my soldering skills from.

[@EducatingSavvas]

Wish I saw those before I started mine too.

[@michaelc1966]

Found your video first when I started looking for what I'm doing wrong... it was great and I certainly appreciated I wasnt alone in the struggle. I did find a link to another post that show how to solder cup joints and it make it look even easier. It's old school, and really only talks about the cups and does not mention lockdown/clamping/etc. But both that one and this really help me. Thank you! The other was: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXivlnaqlNpmi5o

[@Hoss_1966]

what about the female side

[@arya8431]

is this connector waterproof?

[@EducatingSavvas]

No it isn't. RS components will sell ones that are.

[@robertwilson9681]

Please, take no offense....................for a hobby environment I guess this soldering would suffice........but if you were doing work for a defense contractor...as you state these are used in aviation...QC would reject your work in a heartbeat. I am an IPC specialist to J standard 001.......Your wire was heated so hot insulation was shrunk to over 2 wire diameters when the wires were soldered into the cup.....reject. I saw no flux use at all.......You also filled the cups with way too much solder.....and when you heat the cup up and try to insert a cold wire into a heated cup the wires usually fray and you have strands soldered to the outside of the cup, possibly touching an adjacent cup...............and a panavise works much better than a wooden block.

[@thomasmaj]

Gonna agree with everything above. I've worked for a major US defense contractor and aircraft builder for 25 years and I was a NASA and J std soldering instructor. For hobby grade- it's passable. Also as far as calling them "aviation connectors" just because those connectors would look snazzy on an aircraft panel or bulkhead, they are far from flight quality.

[@JLocker]

Just curious? Wheres the flux? Great job without it though.

[@EducatingSavvas]

Some solder has flux cores.

[@Chamdar17]

There is an excellent video on soldering cups uploaded a decade ago: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXivlnaqlNpmi5o

[@Coyote973]

I hate those connectors, because the solder cups are oriented in one direction like north-south, instead of circular orientation.

[@EducatingSavvas]

I gave up with this in the end and wired directly into my new enclosure - using cable glands.

[@mattivirta]

ormal human use heat srink this too ewery wire. not perfect soldering but work. aviation plug in plane i not accept this but hobby user about stepper motor connection has ok, too heavy wire gauge has only this. no need ,because stepper motors no have many if use 5A current more no need big awg wire too.

[@tightcamper]

Wrong on so many fronts. That soldering was a mess.

[@BGraves]

What not to do. This video was awful. Once I saw you move on after the red connector was dangling by a thread I laughed and posted this comment and moved on to the next vide...... **SSHHHHHHH** (radio silence)

[@EducatingSavvas]

Provide the time code please.

[@jayk2k]

So you do put the wire through the holes in the pins and twist them at the top to itself ?

[@slavka012]

This is an awful way to solder.

[@mfx1]

Sorry but painful to watch, you still have a LOT to learn, this isn't how to solder them properly.