How to sort models for you Anycubic Photon printer. reworked audio

[@kevinm3751]

Thanks for making this video, it was a HUGE help getting me up to speed with how to do this!

[@pmaegerman]

Meshmixer is my favorite for hollowing ;)

[@TKs3DPrints]

3d builder is great for fast hollow if your going to paint the model. but i will use meshmixer for clear models. as it makes a better looking print. but i will always make my holes manually. :)

[@KenzieLaMar]

Great video. Glad you made it. Thanks!

[@ThisDesignedThat]

nice work, very helpful

[@jlauzon2]

Well done.

[@soulcatcher521]

So your problem on the export is you picked STL Ascii. STL Binary is a much smaller format. I paused the video to see if binary was on the list, and it is.

[@soulcatcher521]

I use this to convert ascii to binary when programs don't offer a choice github.com/cmpolis/convertSTL

[@TKs3DPrints]

yeps realised after i uploaded the video. its what happens when ya do videos late at night. lol. :)

[@egatwell]

Helpful video :)

[@lordunborn]

Correct me if I'm wrong but amount of supports has nothing to do with print time on a photon. Time on a photon is layers x (exposure time + off time). It prints the entire later at once. On a laser SLA it adds time.

[@TKs3DPrints]

yea with the photon its all down to the height of the model. since its using lcd it will do an entire layer at once. so you could have 6 models on the build plate. and its print time is based on the tallest model. and if you was printing the same 6 models on sla it would take a little longer as the laser is fast but still works like an fdm printer moving the laser about. but lcd tech prints a layer at a time. so it would take just as long on the photon to print 6 models as it would to print 1.

[@GWAAnimations]

Hi there, I have a question/problem When I try to slice from the program, it slices very fast, its about 1/3 of the normal time, and when i try to print it just doesnt print. I tried reinstalling the program, but it didnt work

[@TKs3DPrints]

k are you using the photon slicer to slice or are you using chitubox. are you using the photon or the photon-s ?

[@TKs3DPrints]

if your on facebook you might want to join the group " Anycubic Photon Printer Owners " we can give you more info there

[@GWAAnimations]

TK's 3D Prints yes I use the photon slicer and the anycubic photon

[@GWAAnimations]

TK's 3D Prints thanks I’ll check it out

[@sarvadamanjohari]

Hi! I've the same printer but I'm getting difficulty to print hollow bangle in two parts could you help me?

[@TKs3DPrints]

hello there your best to come join are facebook group but i see you just found it as i just gave you membership. :)

[@artsmodelstation9396]

Turenkarn: Q: thinking of getting the Any Cubic 3D. Since it doesn’t come with a 3D scanner, is there another way to scan and then print ? I want to scan and print my sculptures. Thx.

[@TKs3DPrints]

well you could use autodesk Recap pro. you would need to sign up for a student license to use it for free. with the software comes Recap photo. that basically is amazing. you take photos of your sculptures. about 100 i think you can use. photos of every angle then load in the photos to it and then it will build a 3d model of your photos. clean it up remove what you dont need and save out the model. then you can load in the model into zbrush or sculptris or even meshmixer. and you can then clean up the model and add more details if you need to. check out this video to give you an idea of what recap can do. also if you have a drone you can also use photos for them . kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHXSanWXjZienqc

[@TKs3DPrints]

or shis one. more details about how to use the software. just remember that the software Remake. is no longer in use. and Recap is the latest version of the software. but the interface etc is very much the same and the way you make the model is the same. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2O5kq2MfNJqirc

[@raspberrypiploy771]

With the hollowing and the hole do you drain the resin thats inside once the model has completed or in this instance could a hole have been placed in the head area so it drained as it printed . Am new to the photon and am getting confused with model placement etc so watching as many videos as possible. Thanks

[@TKs3DPrints]

drain holes need to be close to the build plate to allow air into the model as its printing. this stops suction of the model when it is pulled of the fep sheet. and it will drain and allow air to flow. so yea always place at the bottom of the model close to the build plate. remember the models print upside down.

[@Alluvian567]

Looking at this hollowed out model, and knowing the supports are fully solid, it looks like more resin is being used on the support structure than the model itself. Is it easy to tell how much volume your supports are costing you when setting them up in B9? I have a feeling I am going to fail a lot of models because of being stingy with supports (which will cost me more resin in the long run of course, logic be damned)

[@Alluvian567]

OH! also, for thicker supports, like the 6mm diameter ones, can you make those support structures hollow? considering the VAST bulk of stregth in a cylinder is along the surface area it would seem to make sense to have things like 6mm supports that are 1 mm or 1.5 mm perimeter thickness and hollow in the middle

[@TKs3DPrints]

supports on b9 are thicker than the ones on the photon slicer. and if the supports are that large if you save the stl out with the supports on them then you could load it up into meshmixer or 3d builder and make them hollow but the problem there is you would need the drain hole on the side if the support. as the base would be stuck to the base. but yes a 6mm support could have a 3 mm hole on the side. or a 2 mm one. but you would not save that much resin. also there is an auto support function in b9 that is way better than most auto supports in its placements.

[@Alluvian567]

Yeah, I would think on the bigger supports a drain holes in the side of the support disk would be the best, plenty of room there. You are correct I am sure about not saving much resin. And the supports being thin straws with one side plugged would mean the thick resin probably would not even drain out well unless you cut them off and drain them before the alcohol bath. The amount of work keeps growing for some pretty small gains. I am just a cheap bastard, heh.

[@TheWheels1965]

Hi mate! just got a Anycubic Photon having a little problem with the levelling!

[@TKs3DPrints]

k if you head to this link it should help and thanks for the sub kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKCkoqBrmJilnLc

[@kdanagger6894]

Do you sometimes get a random piece of cured resin stuck to the bottom of the vat? If so, do you know how to avoid this? I've had this happen and ruin several prints when it overlaps with the part being printed. Curiously, even the video that AnyCubic put up to show how to clean the vat shows this happening.

[@TKs3DPrints]

yes i do depends on the resins. at the moment i am using the fun to do industrial black resin and have the settings on low as i can. mainly effects when you get bleed threw clear or transparent resin. i tend to always check the vat with the scraper and remove the chunks by getting the bits onto the scraper then moving it left to right on the back part of the vat to suck the resin of the scraper until just the bit is left.then remove it from the vat.

[@kdanagger6894]

OK, thanks. That's good to know. I do check and clean the vat bottom very carefully after each print, but the formation of these chunks of cured resin while my part is printing is giving me trouble sometimes. I may try reducing exposure times a little to see if that helps. I'm using 50 secs on the first 6 layers, and 8 seconds on main layers. I'm using Wanhao black resin at the moment. May have to try something else...

[@kdanagger6894]

I am starting to think this problem is mostly caused by inadequate support of "islands". You have to use the tool which shows a line around the part to identify all possible island areas. If you miss one, or if the angle is too shallow in the area surrounding the support point, the resin won't peel from the vat. Automatic support generation can't be trusted to properly support print islands.

[@TKs3DPrints]

agread that's why i tend to do my own supports. but always remember that if you do use auto. to double check the model and add your own supports to areas that need them sadly at the moment we don't get the lattice work when you add manually hence why i suggest auto then check the model and add were its needed. :)

[@stevenraycopley8885]

Can someone give me some pointers on using the 3d Okay resins?

[@not_riley]

i'm trying to use the b9creator with my anycubic photon, but i can't figure out how to add it as a printer setting. It won't let me choose anything other than various b9creator printer settings it comes with stock.

[@TKs3DPrints]

as in the print size ? if its that its not a real problem since b9 creations is just for adding supports to the model. then you can export it out. is that what your on about ?

[@TKs3DPrints]

if your on about saving the file. head to the files section after adding supports. then export the file to save as an stl file.

[@not_riley]

my apologies, i responded before i finished watching the video. I was just surprised that you were able to load a wanhao print configuration in b9, as it doesn't giving me any option of that sort. Thank you for the quick and helpful reply.

[@TKs3DPrints]

ahh thats a plate even morgan made. he will be making one for the photon.

[@oscarlaborda6613]

Why it is necessary the hole that you make with the cylinder?

[@TKs3DPrints]

sometimes when you hole a model with meshmixer it can corrupt the edges also depending on the model in meshmixer it has a tendency to crash for me. and also the hole will sometimes push thru the other wall depending on how close the walls are. i find using a cylinder gives you more control and a cleaner cut. :) but you might not have problems with meshmixer.

[@oscarlaborda6613]

Turenkarn's 3D thank you! But what is his function? Avoid suction? That the resin flows? I would understand the position of the hole if it was positioned near to the vat in this way waste resin could flow outside the model but I dont understand the position near the buildplate.

[@TKs3DPrints]

its a strange one as the build plate is actually upside down. so when you start printing the build plate is above so the hole that looks like its at the bottom of the model is at the top when you start printing. so after it enters the vat and cures a layer when the plate raises it allows are threw the top and cuts down on the suction. of the fep sheet. nut yes the hole is to help release resin from the model to save resin and decrease the suction of the model when it comes of the FEP sheet :)

[@oscarlaborda6613]

Turenkarn's 3D Tanks thank you so much! I understood, its a perfect explication!

[@diverspudph1310]

I repaired a model in 3D builder then when I "Inspect" it in Meshmixer, there are still errors (and when I autorepair in Meshmixer, it deletes the "erroneous" parts). What am I doing wrong?

[@TKs3DPrints]

hmm.. try hollowing out the model in meshmixer before inspecting the model. i tend to avoid meshmixer for repairing. the latest version of it seems to like to kill some model with repair. i had a hard time finding an older version. as meshmixer will always overwrite the prev version of meshmixer. so you can have multiple versions of it. :( so fix in 3d builder. hollow and add vent holes in meshmixer save the file. then reload and repair again if with 3d builder. that should sort it. let me know if you still have problems.

[@diverspudph1310]

@@TKs3DPrints Super! Thanks so much! Will give this a try

[@Dragonightess]

Can you please tell me how long the film in the printing vat last? And where can you get replacements?

[@TKs3DPrints]

it will varey as a new user you will most probs kill the first sheet. just as well there is a spare. i have already damaged my 1st sheet. i put the vat down on what i thought was a clean surface and picked up a grain of dust and punctured my 1st sheet. i will have a word with the contacts i have about the fep sheets. but from what i am told they should last up to 100 prints before you need to replace. but others might post in the comments about other suppliers and sheets. as i need to get some spares myself.

[@Dragonightess]

Thank you so much, you're the first person that's been able to tell me anything about the FEP sheet.

[@TKs3DPrints]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/en3MZJaei5lmgrM

[@TKs3DPrints]

will be using the photon for a lot of stuff i do on the channel and will be working on a load of videos for the photon also. :)

[@Alluvian567]

Speaking of FEP sheets, what is the thickness of the anycubic photon sheets, are they the same thickness as the wanhao d7 sheets? I saw when I bought some resin that the wanhao ones were back in stock in packs of 4 on amazon (US), but pretty limited supply. I was considering getting some as my printer just arrived last night, but I have not done anything but unbox it so far.

[@tobiasgunther5058]

Hello good video but ive got one Problem: My Prints are to small in the Z-Axis, the x and y axis are correct, can you give me the correct values of your axis from the photon software? Thank you much!

[@TKs3DPrints]

x size 68.04 y size 120.96 z size 150 hope that helps. :)

[@tobiasgunther5058]

Turenkarn's 3D Tanks hello thank you much. I Tried with 150in z but the parts are 2.5mm to smal

[@TKs3DPrints]

what resin are you using. some resins will shrink. best thing to do is increase the model z by 3m see if that will do the trick. i tend to use "fun to do" industrial resin as it has very low shrinkage.

[@tobiasgunther5058]

Turenkarn's 3D Tanks im Using the original Photon Resin from anycubic. But i dont think that i exactly shrink 2.5mm?

[@TKs3DPrints]

all resin will shrink just depends from model to model. at the moment i am working on a model to test the tolerance of resin printers. as i have myself tried to use connectors to clip parts together just to find out that after the parts dont click together as they should do to shrinkage. but what i would do or try would be to load the model into 3d builder and click the unlock on the size and try and increase the height of the model by 2.5mm and then test print and see what happens. was the model in an upright position. i have done xyz test cubes with the "fun to do" resin and have had hardly any shrinkage with that. unfortunately i had run out of the photon resin to try these tests out. but i am expecting some soon. and will test it out correctly.