How to Start a Sustainable Fashion Brand

[@zoehongteaches]

Sigh. Looks like deadstock isn't as sustainable as it once was. #alwaysbelearningsomethingnew

[@wwiinnggnnuutt]

But at least it is a starting point. You gave so many wonderful examples and ideas to work from. Thank you. 😊❤ I will never get tired of your insight. My gramma was a seamstress for drag queens of the day. I find the information you share fascinating.

[@MrGlass-ip4zc]

❤

[@emahavard6059]

Hi Zoe, can you please elaborate on this? :)

[@NextToToddliness]

@@emahavard6059 "While this 'waste' fabric is undoubtedly better off in the hands of a small designer who is starting out and needs to access cheaper material, there are growing concerns that mills are intentionally overproducing since they know the excess will be purchased anyway. This purposeful creation of “waste” perpetuates the cycle of overproduction and overconsumption and is something to be wary of when making purchases. Transparency is key here, but currently, in most places there is no legal requirement for mills to disclose why they rejected the fabric in the first place-which leaves both brands and shoppers in the dark. In some cases, this might mean shoppers are paying twice as much for a “zero waste” design that is made from fabric that is half the quality it should be when charging a premium, meaning it might end up in landfill sooner than later." - On top of that, there might chemicals or construction procedures that could endanger the consumer and the people making the garments. It's essentially greenwashing.

[@ragdollmag]

I agree with making sustainable fashion fun, interesting, colours, patterns etc. I always wanted my own line/brand since I was a kid but over the last decade I totally switched gears the more I learned. I came to the conclusion not to manufacture my own line but do my own designs, make them for myself, document the process, create tutorials so ppl who actually want to appreciate that enough to go to the effort to actually make it and wear it and value it and not just another throw away purchase might be the path. I was thinking about doing a vintage inspired line with old fabric finds and doing it limited edition made by me and only sell locally so no global shipping. Other than that put my imagination and creativity into creating characters and fashion for them for art, graphic novels, animation etc

[@marissafarraj3413]

This is definitely the way to go, in my opinion. I'm learning how to sew in hopes of being able to make and mend my clothes. I love watching people make their own stuff, too! Making our own clothes gives us a greater appreciation for garments and how they are constructed. Also, I love that mending allows for us to enjoy the garments we already have for even longer!

[@sharpaycutie2]

Yes I’m studying fashion in other cultures and how they made what they made and made it look so beautiful 🤩 idk why we can’t cuz fashion was never dull or boring History never had full or ugly clothes (save the 80s 😂) !Knut medival, Rennaisnace era was sheer beauty

[@yannetsandiherrera219]

do you have a public page? Tik Tok? IG Id love to see your work

[@bluemacaroons]

that's a much better idea bc they whole reason i wanted a business in the first place was to make the things i wanted. when i was younger i used to make a bunch of different crafts out of the recycling and it was so fun. As i got older i felt like i had to use new materials from the shops all the time to make things. i then learnt about the environment and sustainability in highschool but soon felt hopeless due to the sheer amount of packaging on everything and after learning about how much waste is produced and how the system is designed to not even deal with it properly, instead just dumping it illegally. i still feel a bit hopeless, but am aiming to learn more about living sustainably. it's not like i lived very happily with a more consumeristic lifestyle anyway

[@asmrglow]

I'm halfway through the video and it's so so interesting to hear your thoughts echo mine. As a customer I really want to buy sustainable fashion but maybe 98% of sustainable fashion I see is the same (as you described, modern monk lmao like shapeless and incredibly bland). I was thinking there was maybe a reason why no one was doing something different but hearing you push for it now tells me that it is possible but somehow barely anyone is doing it

[@sierrasukalski2133]

I hear you. From what I can tell, the first domino to fall is the microplastic issue with recycled material. Synthetics being out is followed by chemically unethical dye processes. Digital printing uses less water, but I can't get a clear answer on if they are still using what amounts to printer dye, with all kinds of toxic stuff, and it only kind of works because things are only printed on one side, and the unprinted side is being worn against the skin. Beyond that, I kind of shudder to think where those inks are actually sourced. I'd love to be pleasantly surprised, but I suspect the presence of a number of pretty heavy minerals, so... The actual natural fibers used are more, or less sustainable, using people in the process in ways that might be hard labor, or might actually hurt them. Rayon, viscose, are known to cost lives within weeks. The chemical baths aren't something anyone should breathe in, or touch. I don't know all the ins and outs of lyocel, or tencel, but just because a chemical bath is being used over and over again, doesn't mean it is fully contained, and people can do their work, not getting exposed. Funny how that guarantee is never offered. What's left are Linen, Hemp, (Ramie hurts the workers hands in a step of the process), organic cotton (still water hungry, and I can't speak to the safety of a cotton gin), bamboo (but the linen-like fiber, not the soft stuff), banana, abaca (perhaps still mired in colonialism in action. I couldn't find a single source directly from the Philippines), lotus, pineapple (I'm not terribly familiar with either one.), wool of various origins, silk (which is highly labor intensive, and has multiple problems with exploitation, though local silk co-operatives in places might help a bit with. It is also endangered by climate change.), and mycellium turned into leather. If you're using color fast, acid dyes you can get some bright colors that don't fade, and don't bleed in the wash. However, I really can't speak to the environmental effects of just dumping that bath down the drain. Really, I just don't know. I do know that textile dyes from the early 20th century were buried in drums, and as their containment was breached, they created the first superfund site in the US, and cancer, and genetically passed on illnesses like you wouldn't believe. A lot of toxic dyes and paints were being made then, that maybe aren't now, but acid dyes were the invention of the 1800's, and probably would have been included. Places that dye wool, and dump dye into their rivers and watersheds are also known to be extremely hazardous to health. (Frothy rivers in Mexico, for example.) As soon as you start on the natural dye rabbit hole, you'll find out all about dying and re-dying. It's a whole thing. The upshot is that there are certainly classics that exist for a reason, and they take a lot of dye stuff. The brightest colors except for the reds, and poppy orange/yellow, I have found, are lichen dyes that give a bright purple, and neon yellow. Harvesting pounds of the right kind of lichen out in the wild just isn't an option, any way you slice it. Making simple garments that can be dyed and re-dyed, especially if pre-washing the fabric is going to shrink it dramatically, and fade the dye, all before it is worn for the first time, or even stitched into a garment, makes a certain amount of sense. Also, it makes sense to opt for more woven garments in a lot of these fibers, maybe even of a heavier weight, because the structure extends the garment's lifespan. In so many of our everyday options we're used to taking advantage of the drape and comfort of a knit fabric. Going back to woven garments constitutes a pretty dramatic reduction in clothing styles. Personally, I think this is why there's such a heavy lean into making and using technical wool fabrics, as wool still really works well as a knit. In short, I'm astonished that we aren't transitioning to wearing ikat, and the woolen trousers of our male ancestors, when we aren't just re-envisioning the robe, chemise, and other simpler patterned clothes, making use of whole lengths of fabric. If we don't rule out the recycling of material, then a lot more is possible, but from a maker's perspective, the question needs to be asked: At what point do I need to face my addiction, our addiction, to synthetic materials, and does that change when I intend to make something new, something for the future, something that contributes to change in the resource distribution inherent in the future of making things? Recycling and thrifting still have the potential to meet that important benchmark of local, that nothing else will. But local microplastics, and local lack of accommodation for people's bodies, and local lack of imagination, and local fast fashion poor quality material saturation, are all issues too, that beg for answers. Some other alternative materials, our honorable mentions, if you will, are kapok (which is a precious resource in the region it comes from, and doesn't take well to being spun into thread, but is known for stuffing bedding and life jackets), burlap/jute, and raffia/straw (which aren't often used for garments, though are known to be used for hat making, rain capes, and ceremonial wear in some cases).

[@dsstudio76]

@@sierrasukalski2133 balance is the best bet into everything in life.There's no true perfection in any type of process. it's called reality. De nada! 😉✂

[@lynylyn316]

Firstly, I love how you slap straight fire out the asses of lazy thinkers, including myself. Secondly, the timing on this is a gift from my angels. Twenty two years ago I began selling jewelry/accessories made from thrifted items and fashion industry off cuts. Got in Bendels. Got a rep, got press, placement in Scoop (tells my age) and lots of other NYC boutiques. The earrings have been knocked off a million times and I’ve been feeling a shift has to be made. THANK YOU! This has given me a spark to reinvent myself and respect what I have to offer. Experience. I’m scraping together coins to tap into your wisdom. I follow you on multiple platforms now I’m ready for one on one.

[@MrXanadoom]

Finally someone called it as it is: sustainability is finding a solution and creating more problems. Current trends are not viable, unless the technology and resources already available are used (and they're not that many). No offense to sustainability-minded people, but coming to the realization that it's better to be non-sustainable and not create your own label/ not make something sustainable because it's hyping is better. Plus, sustainability costs A LOT OF MONEY, like crazy stupid LOT. Add that to fashion being already expensive at large and you get into financial debt quicker than you can breathe. Budgeting is also an essential part of doing fashion and I agree, if you're not prepared to bust your mind with all aspects of a fashion business, then don't! Working for others is better, but choosing the right company to work for is also important. Even large brands who are sustainable have their dead trees and branches and are not as perfectly sustainable as they claim. Both the environmental and social aspects of sustainability require careful cosideration and personally, I think it comes down to behavioural change, but this requires time. It is best to work on this aspect than actually continually working to find sustainability alternatives/solutions/you name it. And yes, I believe deadstock should be the go-to. But sourcing is hard.

[@boots1622fan]

frankly if someone is going to start a brand and isn't going to use sustainable practices, they probably shouldn't start a brand period.

[@Sew_OzzyWar_Made_This]

You took the words out of my mouth ... And I know of some deadstock goods 😁😀

[@TheLily97232]

Exactly. I thought about making a sustainable tshirt brand, but at the end of the day it is just another brand. We don't need that

[@dsstudio76]

Nothing is perfect. We all can find a balance. This is the point of being sustainable. 🌿🇧🇷😉

[@MrXanadoom]

@@dsstudio76 what would that balance be?

[@Sriranjans]

India has a huge potential, culture and history of sustainable clothing. The future of sustainable fashion lies with India. The new generation is coming up with amazing sustainable practices in business.

[@sharpaycutie2]

I think evey country should invest in their own. Ameroca too we could have had it ALLLLLL😭😭😭But greedy business people and citizen letting it happen killed it😭😭😭 But India has Managed to keep a lot of traditions like embroidery that they get hired to make by fashion brands like Versace, Dior, Gucci ect

[@TheGrifhinx]

Finally, the connection to the politics everyone needed to hear. Just goes to show that even the fashion industry has that kind of responsibility to a lot of other industries and sectors, and not just to people

[@SeeCHem]

Thanks zoe. Iwill take all points into account except the last one. Nigeria recently entered into the world of fashion so we don't have even 1/1000 of American brands. We desperately need more and I intend to be one of the pioneeres in sustainable fashion. Love you loads and will implement all your pointers

[@CreationLifeOpportunityDestiny]

I’m totally in the “Don’t “ camp! It’s a breath of fresh air to hear you advise not to start a sustainable fashion company because I’ve felt like the term sustainable is more of a catchy marketing term that keeps designers and business in this loop that doesn’t really change anything. I make one of a kind peices with very high quality materials that are meant to last a very long time aesthetically as well as functionally. Because I grew up in a lower income socioeconomic demographic, most of my garments are directed to those in the communities we relate to. By this it’s possible to integrate the talking points of your video like voting for example, small quantities, etc. the big challenge I face in my community is being affordable to those who can’t afford to purchase garments like mine, and also the education of sustainablility as well who desire the unoriginal crispy new tshirt with a brand that doesn’t care. It’s corny and has no meaning to say something like… Im glad we started the conversation… the vote is incredibly important because change in practices have to occur on a large scale to have an effect in society because if the average earthling can’t afford sustainable resources, then it’s not an option for them .

[@queentantrumofficial]

Definitely! My business mentor keeps pushing for me to label my brand 'sustainable'. I don't want to. I'll source sustainable materials where and when possible, but it's just a headache I don't need.

[@marlenedelgado2634]

3:03mn, that's exactly what I want to tell some people: Go Away. Hi Zoe, I am so proud of having you as a teacher on my Patreon. It's like you are reading my thoughts. I am a Fashion student and lately I am doing a university project for a suatainable fashion company and the feeling that I have is that even my tutors don't take the sustainability seriously and they see it just as a trend, hence why it is so refreshing to hear what you said in this video because lately I have been thinking about what I want to do after I graduate and I really don't want to create another fashion brand and create more clutter in the world, I want to be part of the solution.

[@lauraleonard2819]

Hi Zoe! Thank you for speaking about this subject. Sustainable fashion is such a major issue in the future of the fashion industry. I wish more people were talking about it.

[@staciafarrar3328]

Yes!👏 yes!👏yes!👏 So spot on with politics, industry volume, and "sustainable" fashion. Such an important message. And number 8! You took the words right out of my mouth! I absolutely love this video. Shout it to the rooftops!!!

[@f4dreams]

Zoe and her love for "elevated basics" gets me every time 😂

[@zoehongteaches]

hahahahahahhahaahahah

[@vildantoran644]

Loved this video and I agree with you 100%. I'm a fashion design student and also want to start my own brand. However I plan to focus on a target audience that has needs that I could possibly resolve through my work. And ngl one thing that really annoys me is when fashion influencers launch their own brand without bringing anything new to the table. They are oversaturating an industry that's already oversaturated and produces so much waste. It really boils my blood. I wished they would do something different rather than repeat what people already have Thank you for reding my TedTalk.

[@ChazmyaneAlexia]

This came at a perfect time! Many of the points you stated I have looked into as far as starting my own brand. But I also enjoy that you have also given me food for thought on whether to even start. I appreciate your perspective!

[@brendastuntz1727]

SAVAGE! Thank you so much for this video! When you were taking requests for videos I was the first to ask for this one, and you 100% delivered. I gree with you on all of your talking points, Especially caring about the people who are cultivating our fibers and manufacturing our products as well as the earth. I am spending my time in school doing my own research in preparation for doing something good within the industry and make a positive impact. I'm that person who wants to make things that aren't out there already. You're right, what's the point otherwise? Thanks again for being so real and giving me new things to think about as well as research, which was why I asked for this video.

[@myasiamoniquecody5334]

You spoke all TRUTH!!! No lies here!👏🏾 Coming from a graduated fashion student at FIT college. Those who know fashion stress all of this all the time.

[@ynhoia]

After 2 and a half years running my own slow fashion business I can totally see and understand your point. It is very naive and narcissistic to believe we as individuals can change the world, well yes we can, voting perhaps. But most important, not starting a new unnecessary business again and instead working for someone else doing what you want and in what you believe, I also recommend that in the first place because understanding the financial situation in your own while trying to be productive, creative and successful is just pretty much impossible the firsts years. I started because I wanted a goth apocalyptic unisex wardrobe made sustainably and I did not found something like that, so in the beginning I was making upcycled garments with black jeans I had and then started buying deadstock fabric to make one of a kind garments with zero waste patterns, that's now my main focus. I also love being size inclusive! That's hard with zero waste patterns and being one person bizz, but it's very gratifying when someone bigger or smaller than usual writes a note on the order saying that they couldn't find something like that their size/height! Thanks Zoe, you inspired me years ago and I keep coming for your super interesting and important content (:

[@ruthwezeman6700]

Zoe I think this is my favorite video of yours so far! I wanted to start a fashion brand but decided not to (though I still design and make things for myself). And you’ve given ideas about how I can help in other ways. This is great!

[@tuesdayschild7899]

I stopped at minute 5:52 just to say... FINALLY someone onKZbin who doesn't sugar coat the content...someone who has different ideas that make me think & rethink what I want to make....someone who tells it like it is instead of what they think we want to hear... YOU are a ray of sunshine...gotta go like/subscribe...and finish the video of course.

[@oliquin-roo3420]

Thanks for the video and the perfect talking points! I couldn't agree with you more. The number one way to cause change is voting! Also, exploding glitter bomb silk? How fun. Exploding silk was a thing in history when dyes and iron would interact. Great video Zoe best in this new year.

[@katherinemorelle7115]

Yes to the adaptive apparel! I started sewing my own clothing because finding nice disability appropriate clothing was impossible. It’s all polyester and Velcro. Firstly- I hate polyester. I live in subtropical Australia, and I already need temperature controlled housing for my disability, and I’m already at risk for pressure injuries. Wrapping myself in plastic is NOT a good idea. Also, it’s all super ugly. I can’t even find non adaptive clothing in the styles I like, in my size. For me, that’s all the “victwardian” stuff currently all the rage. But that’s me thing my foray into historical dress has taught me is that there are a lot of adaptive solutions already invented by people of the past. Like stiffened hems that keep long skirts out of the way of your feet (or my wheels). Like a corset that is both bust and back support (they’ve changed my life, seriously). Like split drawers and natural fibres and clothing that is size adjustable. So why would I pay ridiculous amounts of money (because everything disability is automatically ramped up in price 500% , and that’s a low end estimate) for something ugly, that doesn’t even fit my needs when I could sew my own clothing that fits my needs, fits my style, and is less costly? Well, one reason is that a lot of disabled people don’t have the physical ability to sew their own garments. I can, but it takes me a long time, and I have to hand sew a lot of it because that’s something I can do in bed. It sucks that disabled people are stuck with either making it themselves (which can be painful, and difficult to impossible), or having to buy ugly plastic clothing that could make some of our issues worse. So eg- wearing polyester makes you sweat more, skin that is wet for periods of time can have a damaged barrier, that damaged barrier leads to increased pressure sores, which can easily get infected, super easily if you’re wearing clothing that makes you sweat into your pressure sores, and that can make you sick, and could, in the very worst case scenario, kill you. Polyester is the devil, is what I’m saying. Sorry for the ramble. I’m all loaded up on the painkillers today.

[@katherinemorelle7115]

Adding to my comment, because I decided to take another look at available adaptive clothing, and I found one nice thing- a very simple white button up blouse with magnets instead of buttons. It’s $200. For one blouse. The rest were very ugly polyester stretch tops. It was even more abysmal than I had thought it would be.

[@zoehongteaches]

I have a close friend who uses a wheelchair and we have conversations about this a lot, because they love fashion. I'm dying for some of my clients to get into adaptive apparel but I can't force them unfortunately haha

[@katherinemorelle7115]

@@zoehongteaches I’m about to do a diploma of applied fashion, then possibly a bachelors. Might be one of those “of you want something done right” situations.

[@daniellerobertson7989]

Katherine, Zoe and everyone...even for disabilities that change according to weather and times of stress like Rhuematiod Arthritis...I sometimes greatly struggle with getting a T-shirt on and off, buttons have definitely been sometimes impossible. Thank you for these discussions. I didn't even think of magnets...that's quite brilliant really 🤣 Prices shouldn't be over the top...just a set of magnets 😂

[@katherinemorelle7115]

@@daniellerobertson7989 yeah, the idea was great- but charging $200 for $2 worth of magnets and a very basic white poly cotton button up blouse (made at the same low quality as you’d get at a fast fashion place)… it’s honestly absurd. But the disability markup is well known to be atrocious. I’ll take the idea though- might do the magnet placket for my next blouse, see how that goes.

[@thelittlecostumery]

I love what you are saying! I started a fashion design degree in the mid 90’s and actually dropped out after 2 years. Brands hadn’t yet moved most production overseas at that point so maybe I dodged a bullet because the fast fashion industry is not one I want to be a part of. I’m now into making one of a kind creations as a hobby and have a tiny pattern company for historical clothing. I love the idea of tailoring and custom clothing and wish more people would too.

[@yannetsandiherrera219]

wow incredible on your company! Following now!

[@Jyemarshall]

Hi @zoehong love the video, for years I have wanted to start a fashion brand and It was the soul reason I went and studied fashion. Little did I know about sustainability. Plus 5 year im currently researching fashion sustainability and couldn’t think of anything worse than starting a brand. A lot of my research focuses around the triple bottom line sustainable model with the environment only one leg of a three legged chair. I think the custom sector could really grow and bring back local tailoring. Sustainability is definitely hard, especially when you need to pay rent haha!

[@NecroPandaDaps]

I gave a standing ovation for each point, but the last one got my heart racing like when you fall in love. I've graduated almost two years ago from a fashion uni, religiously following your teachings too (will never thank you enough, really) and, if I have to go back and re-write my dissertation, that'd be exactly about your point n° 8. I've spent those years hearing from teachers, nearly every course we took, saying "what is your brand? What's your brand identity? This won't work, are you sure you want to use this? This website needs to be developed better, so when you gonna have your own brand ... your brand, fashion brand, design brand, fashion designer" even when some of us -like myself- made it clear didn't want to become a fashion designer and have his/her own brand. I am o b s e s s e d about sustainability and upcycled fashion, so much that my dissertation and entire grad collection was about that, but so many people are stuck in the past to when we weren't floaded with brands -good or bad either- so they're blinded by the fact that to be a fashion student, one needs to own a brand and make clothes, ofc sustainable "cuz iz 2021 and we do this way" (generally speaking, do not take this personally). Truly Zoe, you are the teacher everyone needs but do not always deserve. Thank you I fockin love you 🖤🖤

[@got2bjosh]

Zoe will always have you learn something new.

[@JuliaSophia52]

I recently found your channel and I've been binging your videos every chance I get. I'm a whole 5' tall so nothing, seriously nothing, ready made fits. With the cost of sewing supplies and beautiful fabrics steadily increasing in recent years, I've been sourcing materials from the Goodwill Bins (items sold by the pound). These garments are minutes from the landfill and have been available for purchase in the regular store for at least a couple of months. Occasionally I'll find a garment in a beautiful fabric in a plus size that will never be sold. I won't purchase from the regular thrift store because their increase in prices are the same as new items sold at discount stores. Our thrift stores have supplies of plus size garments equal to small, medium, and large clothing. I don't just buy clothing, I've found beautiful organic cotton sheets that make comfortable outfits. Children's and men's garments make it into my sewing room too. Love your channel.

[@MmAaSs12]

So glad to have stumbled upon this video. Your recommendations at the end are immensely eye-opening, shedding light on actions that could be of so much help but have genuinely never crossed my mind nor the mind of many others. Your warning for sensitive viewers at the beginning made me think you could say mean things in the video but that wasn't the case at all. It was just full of beneficial information and truths. Can't express my gratitude as I observe this matter from a new prespective. Thank you for being a true content creator.

[@poojadasharatmashal6837]

This small but dynamic video is my roman empire!! I almost felt a slap on my back from the whole consciousness! I'm glad you make these videos! Truly. Thank you

[@girlboss8299]

I feel like a brand that takes scraps and used clothing and repurposes it is probably best since there is so much clothes that ends up in landfills or dumped in other countries. I think there should be places locally that will take your old clothes and make sure it does not end up in a landfill. I have seen things online for that but it’s so expensive. And I love the app idea. I also have had the same thought of creating an app and I did study computer science, but i did not have the resources to create it. Maybe one day in the future!

[@nadias6435]

I make clothes from old natural fiber clothes and would love an app that connects those who have garments to donate to makers who can make a new item of clothing from these.

[@Pandunkey]

SAY IT LOUDER FOR THE PEOPLE IN THE BACK!!!!! Thank you for being raw and honest. So tired of so many people, in general, being worries about hurting people's feelings or not being liked by speaking the truth... More people need to gain some confidence, as well as intelligence, in regards to the fields that interest them. Everything is NOT puppy dogs and rainbows. Sustainability is a very NICHE and DIFFICULT title to obtain. Please, listen, be receptive and open to learning more and do BETTER. If anything that Zoe said offended you, do some soul searching and gain a backbone. Be able to own your worth and know yourself to be better. So perfectly said

[@edisonfernandez4376]

A-mazing!!! THANK YOU for sharing all of it with us. I love the way you are so direct and honest. Totally agree with you and the talking points on this video, but more specifically, with having a little more creativity and make something truly new and sustainable, considering the materials and the real need for it. Fashion is my life, but I’m really thinking now what is it that I can do within the industry other than making more clothes... thank you Zoe! ❤️🇩🇴🌎♻️🌱

[@venetiantiger1890]

My sustainability teacher told me the exact same that the industry needs more people to execute this information ! He worked at Volcom and would take months out of the year to fly to India and source from the places and create deals in person. Now I’m here I’m a law major and I wish I could just go back and continue my path in sustainability, I’m glad you made this video I’ve been following you for years 🖤🖤

[@ileina9859]

GOOSEBUMPS. Your powerful presence blew me away and into inspiration around being a good force in this world. THANK YOU. ❤

[@leviburness4033]

Zoe you’ve been a tremendous help with your insights the amount of notes I have written down from your videos are becoming book worthy. Honestly my love - I’m gonna name a garment after you (with permission obviously)

[@AmiraBarkh]

Thank you for this video, Zoe, it does make you think. I am starting my brand and trying to make it as ethical as possible, but not claiming to be 100% ethical and zero waste, because it's not possible. Here are some of the measures I have taken (maybe someone will benefit from it): 1. using second hand clothes as fabric material (I'm working with leather now, which is controversial by itself, but I believe it's more sustainable to work with second hand leather than with new faux leather) 2. Recycling all paper waste 3. Sending all fabric waste to high temperature incineration 4. Making everything by myself, so no direct unetichal labor is involved 5. Using compostable and biodegradable mailers 6. Buying leftover/damaged scraps 7. Reusing fabric and paper (e.g. making new toiles out of old toiles, using old patterns paper to make new patterns). 8. Mostly made to order (I'm planning to participate in local markets and I need to present something for people to try on) I was going to use new fabric for lining my garments, but now I will try to source some dead stock fabrics, so thanks for the idea. I have also learned 3D programs, but during learning 3D, I found out that I just don't enjoy it as much as making real pieces. I have written too much, but honestly, this is a very difficult topic. Also, I feel guilty from time to time when using fabric to make toiles, but at the same time there is no way to practice other than using fabric. It doesn't reflect well on my mental health. It's important to find balance for sure. And just last thing, in case someone has made it so far: I was thinking of making my brand more size inclusive, but price wise it just doesn't work :( I would have to make the bigger pieces more expensive, and I am not sure how people will feel about it. If anyone has advices on that, I would be more than happy to read them.

[@anhhel]

I’ve been brainstorming what my own brand would look like and completely relate to wanting to be body/size inclusive but it not being financially feasible - debating between offering limited stock for larger sizes and disclosing the financial block or just waiting till I can offer more sizes as my business grows - as long as you know your own intentions and let your audience know I think it’s understandable- or even offering alterations but that could over complicate things esp if you’re working alone

[@anhhel]

I wouldn’t make the larger sizes more expensive tho - wouldn’t be fair for plus size people to pay more for the same thing - instead just up the price for all sizes to what the larger size costs

[@AmiraBarkh]

I forgot to add, that by finding balance I meant to find balance between sustainability and your health, since I have noticed that consentrating all your energy on sustainbility makes you paralysed creatively.

[@AmiraBarkh]

thank you for your view on this matter!@@anhhel

[@maybemolly237]

Yes, I also make bigger pieces more expensive. I price by fabric use, and then labour. So let's say I charge $15 an hour for my labour (just for example purposes) and my fabric costs $10 for small, and $50 for 3X (just for example purposes). My small would be $25 and my 3x would be $65. I've actually received comments about that but when I explain to the customer's who inquire, they're extremely understanding.

[@crystalneel748]

I think it is on the right track to get the minds of society shifted off of the fast fashion train. Then we can return to making well made long lasting garments with real structure, substance & meaning. The idea of valuing Quality over quantity is what has to be sold back to the people. We don’t ever want to lose the talented ART & artistry of fashion design~we just need to return to real quality fashion as art being valued. I think media & marketing can help shift people back to paying more & buying fewer items of higher quality vs a bunch of junk.

[@Curiouslynikki]

Hi, Zoe :) I just wanted to leave a HUGE THANK YOU! Your channel has been such a tremendously blessing. Since a child, I always wanted to attend art school. I got accepted to Parsons, Pratt, and FIT! Unfortunately my parents didn’t support me attending and I attended a traditional university. I worked as a production assistant throughout college, and landed a line producer job in television three years ago. I’ve been in TV ever since. I’m 26 and I’m planning on starting my own sustainable line. I have so many ideas, but I’m making sure to handle all of the proper business work first. Your channel has helped me learn so much on my journey and I honestly can’t thank you enough!! You’re are one of many who are allowing me to live my dream :) one day I hope to send you pieces from my line and flowers! You have no idea how thankful I am!!

[@samikaysays]

DUDE...the catharsis I felt watching this... thank you so much. 💓

[@marielmaxted4287]

Here for this, not because I want to be a fashion designer, but with the aspiration of being a tiny-scale dressmaker/alterations/clothing mending business. You know, your local seamstress. I love these ideas and intend to weave sustainable practices into my plan.

[@90sgulliver37]

I absolutely fell in love your channel, the way you show us the good side and fun side of fashion and how you teach us with every detail. I'm 15 and i always want to be a fashion designer, you're channel motivates me so much to the point where i have to grab a pen and notebook at 3:00 am and note down all your teaching😅 keep going and THANK YOU SO MUCH! ❤️ But i wanna request a video if you don't mind! I'm going to fashion school next moth or later maybe, i need advice on how i can prepare for that, or what i can do now??

[@zoehongteaches]

I have a playlist called "Fashion School" that has videos on all that.

[@90sgulliver37]

@@zoehongteaches thanks

[@taivin.lorenzo5619]

This video is about to be bible for me as I get into this process. The idea you said you *wanted to see, is exactly the idea that I had! Thank you for this straightforward rundown. Feeling empowered and excited to learn more

[@dayswithchar]

I was cheering you on out loud esp the part of designing more body inclusive apparel!! Yes yes. Anyone can do “elevated basics” that’s easy, it’s harder to design out of reach. Hard to get excited over branded bamboo wholesale t shirts..

[@starylize]

this is why i love your content, zoe! you keep it real. people think they can metal straw end hydroflask their way into sustainability and completely disregard voting. also, a small part of my heart dies when i see an influencer i like launch a sustainable brand and it’s just the same tshirt and jeans basics we’ve been seeing for over a decade, but this time in organic cotton (with questionable labor ethics, still). i’m hoping to see some more inclusive styles too. being straight sized but short has everything looking oversized/too long on me no matter what, which is frustrating sometimes.

[@zoehongteaches]

Yes, there aren't a lot of options for petites all across the size board.

[@lilacswithtea]

i make music and so i think about my fashion/style a lot, and i've realized that i don't need to have a "new, crazy" look or style, i just need to figure out a stable identity that works for me. a lot of times characters in shows wear literally the exact same thing every episode and we still relate to them fine. so i think that a big part of sustainability is shedding the fomo of the latest fads by thinking seriously about who we want to be. and that's where we have to start approaching feelings and i'm glad i have the music to help!

[@monika.youtube]

This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen! Thanks for all the honest insight!

[@GabrielBaradee]

thank you for that great video. Working for 15 years as a sustainable fashion designer, I guess the most important thing is that limit production that also a small label can sell is the most important and second I guess Design can be the most important part so things like Zwerowaste patterns, finding ideas how to make fuse more sustainable, etc.

[@ameenahsf]

*slow clap to applause* Seriously you nailed everything I've felt and or said over the past few years. Love it love it! Thank you. Its easier for me to share your videos than rant on a soapbox 😂

[@catfrazer5406]

Boom. Brutally direct, but I love your style. I'm just launching a project and I needed your energy to push me to get more creative and think beyond the box. Thanks so much! Absolutely on point.

[@markbailey5393]

This is the best you tube video I have ever seen. Everything is so on point.

[@ladiluck88]

Zoe👏🏾 is👏🏾 not👏🏾 taking 👏🏾prisoners👏🏾 today 👏🏾and👏🏾 I 👏🏾love👏🏾 it!!

[@NextToToddliness]

I SO glad I was recommended your channel, because you are saying things that I always believed in my heart, but now I have a professional validating them. I have an acquaintance who specializes in "natural dying", but that's as far as she goes with her "progressiveness". She still designs clothes and accessories for wealthy white women... while using indigenous and aboriginal techniques to make her stuff. It's all an image and deeply superficial (see what I did there). Anyway, I love you and your channel. I'm like several years behind, but I've been doing my best to catch up. I want to be a radical change in the fashion industry, after years of telling myself it's a lost cause. It isn't.

[@AnaliseFrank]

I really like your points and things to think about. I already wanted to size clothing Average (12-18) and Plus Size (20+ to custom made) small ( 4-10) XS (Asian sizes, wanna be Asian sizes, juniors). I had an eating disorder and the most annoying thing is the emphasis on sizes. Wtf is 00 or 0? Even if I wear those sizes, it feels like I shouldn’t exist. Worker rights has been a priority for me since high school when I read “The Jungle”. I wasn’t worried about food safety as much as worker safety and was upset that the readers only focused on food safety. I have as much passion as you do about several of these topics. I love that you bring up others things I haven’t considered as much about.

[@YUPING27]

Zoe you are speaking the truth.❤ you legit took the words out my mouth and Im so bless you gave us your insight and knowledge to this topic. Love you sister.❤

[@helgacucumber3871]

YES SPEAK THE TRUTH! I’ve decided to be a tailor and do custom clothes for local people that are a 60” waist or higher for the same reasons. It would be nice to design lines of clothes and be seen as successful but that’s not a good enough reason to pursue a career. We need to stop telling people they should put their personal interests and ambitions above what the world needs right now.

[@mhill0425]

Thanks for all of your videos! Although my dreams of starting a fashion line probably died a while ago when my parents just didn’t want to pay for college, but coming back to sewing after a decade has been fantastic(and for some reason napkins and mccalls patterns don’t do it for me haha) Also thank you for talking about sustainability!!!❤️❤️

[@lunaumbra5179]

I am trying to get started on a specialty product for trans women. I am overhwelmed and trying to sponge as much info as I can because I am frightened about how much work it will take to run a brand. Esepcially since I am physically disabled. Your videos are really helpful. Thank you for sharing as much as you do.

[@iagonizante]

I am in LOVE with the first 3:30 minutes of this video, I haven't had time to watch any longer but 100% you are awesome

[@0433elva]

Students need teacher like you to wake them up.❤️❤️

[@kiriyoplay]

I'm like 3 minutes in and already LOVING this!

[@sierrabray954]

I just found your channel and omg I think I'm in love! You're so cool, intelligent, and well-spoken!! Very excited to binge your videos :p

[@FunSoSoToTo]

I'm late to this video, but I'm watching (listening) to all of your videos while doing embroidery accessories from scrap fabrics from my personal and fabric shops scraps stash 😆 The last point where you said "don't" hit a deep point in me 😢 I followed an Indonesian clothing brand called SukkhaCitta which they say if I'm not wrong that they aren't profitable fashion business. They have a long story about how they make a job opportunity for women in far villages, or they are planting trees in places where the soil is ruined because of environmental issues, and so on. Their business isn't for making more clothes to make more money. And I felt I didn't know making a good fashion could get so complicated, making me feel like I shouldn't do it anymore 🙃. I think it's about choosing what's my priority in all of this and build accordingly. And even if I got the chance to make a brand and did multiple of sustainable things, I feel I won't say or market it as a sustainable business, because I might promoting a lie. One way or another I want more profit so I have to sell more which might lead to over consumption or throwing more clothes. A vicious cycle. I could go on and on about it, and I keep reading all the comments non stop. I'm enjoying this type of discussion from many different people around the world. It's eye opening.

[@alexandrakostosraskey8780]

Right on the mark!!!!! I am so glad you are having this conversation. It is refreshing to hear honest real information (and opinions) about what is really happening. Thank You.

[@habituscraeftig]

They actually resew the kimono back into the shape of the original bolt of fabric before washing through a set of rollers! So they're unsewing, resewing, washing, and then unsewing and resewing, again! It's a really cool process, and it actually used to be done at home - unlike most of Europe, where laundering clothing was usually a separate profession.

[@Angela-un2tx]

I FREAKING LOVE THIS RANT!!!!! ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ THANK YOU

[@SuperCafeinomane]

You’re a great teacher, i love your use of dry humour and your strait-to-the-pointness. No bullshit. Nothing is out of the vacuum indeed. Thanks for sharing.

[@soffaerie]

I love how straightforward you are. Us fashion students need to have our feet on the ground

[@wokewerk6759]

I need more of this!!! Keep turning the wheels in my brain. Even the story about kimonos (one of my favorite fashions ever created) really encouraged me to toughen up! I will keep looking at new, sustainable ways to impact the industry and the world. Thanks for posting!

[@nguyenblake8905]

This video is absoulutely spot on! I'm glad you released this video and talk about it.

[@djm050]

Oh damn Zoe took us to church today! I not ready but I was living!!

[@anuradhashukla4400]

Goosebumps!!!!! I love you, really really do. You inspire me like anything.

[@Sew_OzzyWar_Made_This]

I'm living for this video. I agree with EVERYTHING!!!!!

[@mercury3440]

I'm so happy to hear that someone actually agrees that fashion today is not a sustainable concept by just adding a bamboo/ramie/tencel fabric.

[@OfJournalandJourney]

I’ve been working on a product and honestly I needed to hear this. I love your insight and honesty this truly is eye opening.

[@parsiukasabdzzzzz]

I know its vague and boring but I just need to say it: Zoe I love you!

[@dsstudio76]

I think just like Zoe. This is why I started into the tailor career. On my adult world I have bills to pay and children to support. I've decided that making my own pieces and accessories out of fabrics I've owned for myself or as gifts , already is making me a sustainable person and designer. Undoubtly creating another sustainable brand is not being sustainable after all. Especially those bland and lacking personality clothing brands I've been seeing it all over the world 😉🇧🇷✂

[@youknowthatgirltiffany]

YOU ARE AMAZING ZOE👏🏼

[@allenlebaron8993]

im glad to have found these videos, never thought fashion would be something i would be into. this makes me really think of the ways i need to build sustainable businesses as i know some of my previous attempts have done nothing to help the world. i appreciate the video and hearing all of this

[@soidee]

Thank you Zoe! A lot of food for thought in this video. Great as always! Thanks again!

[@BunnyStar]

Zoe, you are GOLD. Thank you for all that you give. This is one of your best videos. 100% Solid Expert Advice. ++ SO many LOLs!

[@BigMoneyJah]

You are soooooo intelligent and such a great teacher. I absolutely love your teaching methods. We love you Ms. Hong your the G.O.A.T ❤️

[@malcatt]

Thank you so much for this video! Your honesty about the the fashion industry just goes to show how much knowledge you have over this subject. I loved your different takes on what we can do as fashion enthusiasts to help make a more sustainable future within the our community :)

[@cherryjbfernandez6636]

omg! I love you - thank you for your upfront, educational, amazing content. Appreciate what you do!

[@iman1734]

damn. everything this video. i have no words. at the beginning of the video i thought about quoting what was said about the "sustainable monk fashion" but then she kept saying important and valuable things and i cant quote the whole damn video!!! it was like she took the words directly out of my brain and put them together in a more intelligent way. EVERYBODY needs to see this video!

[@PlumBerryCherries]

I couldn't have seen this video at a better time in my life, Thank you for the wisdom and inspiration Zoe.

[@sidliciouss]

maybe i'm made to hear your type of tone, maybe i mostly agree with you, but either way thank you! what a great video to stumble on as i'm finishing up business plans and getting ready to begin producing on my own. thank you again from the future!

[@HannahYesmunt]

the realness in the video i LOVE it

[@Momo-oz4ek]

I've always thought that upcycling large thrifted clothes wasn't fair to plus sized people, since you can't do the reverse and turn small sized clothes to larger sizes

[@obsidianrosestudio2663]

I love all of this Zoe! I have already been writing and thinking about all of this and you have got my brain churning even more. I have a plan and it isn’t going to necessarily transition into my own fashion brand per se but will become a brand.

[@firstlast3951]

Finally someone said sustainable basics is overdone. THANK YOU.

[@ChristianMullerful]

AMEN!!! This is the reality of sustainability!

[@miriamgillham6701]

At a guess, I could probably say that there is enough existing clothes to clothe all the world’s population for an extraordinarily long amount of years at the least (I couldn’t say how long but I think a decade would barely be scratching the surface) and if recycled, up cycled and placed in a circular economy surely this existing clothing would last and could and should have its lifecycle extended far into the foreseeable future. I am not young and when I studied fashion design it was the seventies and we thought anything was possible. I am so much more wiser now have seen my fair share of trends come and go. Thank you for saying STOP. I fully agree with the passion behind this statement. I know it’s hard for young, zealous creatives to hear but there simply has to be better solutions to the clothing monster that our modern world has created. Thank you for putting some of these solutions forward. Thank you for telling it like it is, it isn’t pretty and it’s hard to hear but it needs to be said.

[@darymuhammadputra]

love the way you deliver every information; sarcastic but still in a good way, btw I love all of your contents

[@pilarneary3526]

I had no idea about all this. Very interesting!! Thank you, thank you, Ms. Zoe! 🌺🤗🌺

[@this-abledtheextravertedhe5299]

I’m so, so glad I found you 😂 You are fantastic!

[@valeriaarteaga2992]

This is so informative! Thank you for sharing your insights, I do want to make a different brand that is inclusive for everyone so I need to really be conscious of my designs. Thank you!!

[@tiasarfraz]

Superb. Thanks for sharing your thoughts in detail on this topic. I am running a small sustainable fashion business and wondering if I could survive it. You are right, it's our responsibility to deliver sustainable options and not the customers'. This responsibility becomes overwhelming sometimes.

[@fatihkaya82]

Hi, Zoe! Taking the chance of this my very first comment, I would like to thank you for all the information you have shared and improving me from fashion drawing to fabric types + fashion history. I really adore your knowledge and style of communication. And I am about to launch a clothing brand (not a fashion one because of my design language) I always rejected to use recycled polyester/nylon or lycra even if this decision limits me from design flexibility point of view. Because almost 100% of recycled polyester is recycled from bottles. And bottling industry has the capability to recycle the bottle up to 10 times while in textile industry I can say it is almost impossible (because very low scale and the technology is very limited). + I would like to share the information that Bottling industry also has recycling targets by 2025 as textile industry has. However when we sum both it exceeds the available bottle sources for recycling. So I believe textile industry should give the priority of recycling to bottling industry. And I know that there will be some restrictions coming in force to do so. Then I would like to ask you if you really consider recycled polyester is sustainable for fashion industry? If it is really like that I still question the micro fiber releases to ocean which is mentioned by you also. Thanks a lot!

[@karenmcwilliams5840]

Love u Zoe. Keep Livin Out Loud.

[@pilarneary3526]

Very well said, Ms. Zoe!!! Wonderful words, enlightening!! I am your fan.🌺🤗🌺