How To Test A Regulator Rectifier (Motorcycle)

[@FabMotorbikes]

Get your multimeter here: amzn.to/3xg1olF

[@asifchohdary]

Sir today i checked the stator AC voltage from 3 yellow wires 2 wires giving 5v and 1 yellow wire was showing 11v with respect to group does my stator coil faulty?

[@ridethroughlifertl]

This video is old now, but it's exactly what I needed. My DR650 has been draining power for a few months now and instead of firing the parts cannon at it, I tried various ways to narrow down the draw. I first charged the battery and tested the voltage, then let it sit a couple hours and it was lower. I unplugged the fuse to my heated grips and charged/tested again, still losing power. I did the same for the stator, but it kept happening. I also tried messing with the ignition key as people say it can have issues, and removing it to charge/test, but it wasn't the issue. I took off the R/R and tested it just now like in this video, and I am seeing power across two of the three contacts in the reverse polarity configuration.

[@Skuddz]

Great video. 2 years on and it's still helping people. That's the sign of a good video. Thanks for this. Easy to follow and we'll explained. I tested mine as I think its broken, I got a reading both ways, that suggests it's dud. Ordered new one. Hopefully that'll fix my bike issue. Thank you for this video. 💪

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you. Glad it was useful 👍

[@Fr33zeBurn]

Woo! This diagnosed my problem. It failed the negative bias test on the positive side, was getting a really high reading too? Figures as I just looked at the specs of the R/r I installed and it's rated to 25A, my bike is 30A 😬looks like I have another £60 to spend!

[@danhooper2965]

So helpful and easy to understand. And figured out my rectifier is toast. Thanks man. Legend!

[@FabMotorbikes]

Awesome. Glad it was helpful!

[@bobk1126]

Thank you for dumbing it down so I can understand what and why.

[@FabMotorbikes]

It’s the only way I could understand it too 😂

[@rolifesign]

I did your test with 2 regulator both look good with the test, but one does not load my battery on the bike, and the other one does so this test does not always give you the right conclution. so I think you need to test the power it sends to your battery as well, when revving over 3000 rpm to be sure.

[@elvisparsley7497]

Simple and clear, perfect for any of us with no previous idea, thank you 👍

[@FabMotorbikes]

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching, and I hope you get your bike sorted 👍

[@rossitt08]

So the last two you did mine are the opposite. I'm guessing that means mine is not working lol cheers for this video definitely helped me to understand when I'm rubbish at electrics 😮

[@brosephjoseph9178]

Thank you so much! This and the stator vid. was just what I needed. I have 08 fz6 that has been giving me a bit of hard time. I think mine has bad ground somewhere thou. It runs fine for min. and then starts to run like crap and go completely dead no dash lights no nothing. I go to start it again and a good fully changed battery go’s completely dead by just hitting the starter button. When I did the stator test I noticed the the negative side of the battery was totally hot. Still working on it but very much appreciate the easy to understand videos!….

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks for watching! Glad to hear both videos were useful. 👍

[@paulbridgehouse7594]

Thanks, you have just saved us a small fortune with this and your stator video.

[@FabMotorbikes]

No worries glad it was helpful!

[@MavSkipper]

Thanks for the video. Very easy to understand and follow. I’ve been having issues with my battery holding charge that I suspected it was simply not holding the charge anymore but after replacing it with a new one, I’ve had the same issue. After doing a Neg/Bias on the Neg/Terminal testing one of the nodes, I got a voltage reading which shouldn’t as with the other two nodes. I bought a new R/R to replace it.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Nice one. Glad you found it useful. I hope that sorts it out. 👍 thanks for watching

[@stashostigin9927]

This is exactly the knowledge I was seeking!! Thanks!

[@FabMotorbikes]

🙏

[@nepaliboka3950]

I manage to fix my problem after looking at your post on youtude. Thank yiu so much.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Nice work. Glad it was helpful

[@CaptainSwoop]

Well done mate - spot on. Thanks from Oz.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Cheers mate, glad it was useful

[@canlam5697]

Very clear. I watched many others and this one explained best. Thank you. I think my rectifier is bad.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Glad it was useful 👍 hope you get it sorted

[@banankage1277]

Hello i was checking my voltage regulator and on the forward/postiv bias on the negativ wire it showed 0 on all 3 pins and when i did it on the postive wire it showed 448 442 451. My question is do you think that is why my atv does not start?

[@curtisss]

I have a lexmoto urban, ive been told this could be my issue (sensor faults even after replacing sensor. Causing starting issues) can i still test without starting my bike?

[@Gsxr_josh]

When I use forward positive bias I get reading just shy of average in the .47 then .49 and on past node .51

[@FabMotorbikes]

These are all quite close. Which is fine. Usually a problem occurs when you get no reading

[@chandrakantindapurkar8738]

Thanks for explaining R R UNIT VERY SIMPLE WAY THANKS A LOT

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks

[@wh88lsofsteel]

Nice and clear. I've tested mine after a charging issue, one way its showing ~.5 on all three pins, reverse is 0. However the negative is only showing ~.1 on all three and also 0 reverse. Does this indicate a faulty rectifier?

[@vincepresutti3683]

Same thing is happening to mine. Currently troubleshooting my entire charging system

[@feero9680]

did you replace your rectifier? did it fix your charging issue? i got weird reading as well

[@wh88lsofsteel]

@@feero9680 all i got in the end was a rick's motorsports stator, solved the issue. But usually its recommended to do both if one goes, I was just being cheap

[@AndyMontes]

My bike only starts with a Jump. I runs for couple minutes and then dies. The battery is not charging. Is either the stator or rectifier. I’m about to change the stator but I’ll hold until I check this first. Stator has 7k mikes it is almost impossible that is bad.

[@nivlz]

I don't know my bikes issue. The stater I tested the pins and they all passed both the ohms and current. The battery is 40 days old. Yet I have to use a charger to charge it. When I rev bike the voltage doesn't change on battery. Which means its not being charged but rectifier looked ok with the pin tests

[@FourIntoOne]

Very helpful (many thanks) but this only confirms the rectification side of the RegRec - this will not confirm the regulator side of the RegRec ie charge rate/under or overcharging. Current needs to be put thru it and output tested also.

[@AndyMontes]

Im getting a reading in the part where I shouldn’t . That means my rectifier is bad ?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Correct. Assuming you are having problems with bike In General too

[@blutey]

Thanks for this. I've seen a few motorcycle reg/rec units and they never seem to label the terminals or wires. Even on yours, I couldn't see a + or - sign. Not quite sure why they do that. Labeling would make testing and fitting them much easier. Also, are reg/rec units interchangeable between different bikes? eg if you took one off a Honda mc and used it on a Suzuki one, could it be used on both bikes? Reason I ask is that I have an old bike I'm having trouble locating the correct reg/rec unit for so may have to use one off another bike.

[@carll.freemanjr.9867]

So I did this test as you instructed and I get a .510 to a .514 reading in both positive and negative bias so my R/R is bad then correct?

[@mazingGT]

Guys, stop showing this test on the internet, or at least mention the fact that it could be irrelevant in some cases like mine. For example, I had a very old regulator rectifier (exactly the model from this video from a 2009 Yamaha FZ6 S2) that passed this diode test. But, when checking the voltage on it with the engine on, it wasn't charging enough. It was barely 12V on idle and 12.8V on high RPM. I also checked the stator and it was good. So, after I changed the regulator rectifier, everything was good, charging according to the service manual. So, the regulator rectifier might pass the diode test, but that doesn't mean that it works properly. The ultimate test is measuring the voltage on idle and on high RPM by connecting the voltmeter directly on it's + and - connectors. Exactly the way it's mentioned in the service manual.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks for your comment. You are right. I’d already tested the stator. It’s all part of the process of elimination. I just like to document my journey. Not a professional mechanic. Thank you for watching though and your comment is very useful, lots of people will learn from it, which is also another goal of mine. All the best and ride safe!

[@pinpointMasters]

The aim should be to educate not to shoot down its ok to be positive

[@pinpointMasters]

Nicely handled 😅​@@FabMotorbikes

[@jpaff123]

So what youre saying is to connect in the regulator or at the battery with engine working?

[@mazingGT]

@@jpaff123 yes. When you are facing a poor charge, you must connect the voltmeter straight to the regulator with the engine on and rev it at around 5500 RPM. That’s what the manual says. If you don’t get above 13.5v, then it might be the regulator or the stator. Next step is to check the stator, which is a whole different procedure. If the stator passes the test, than you must change the regulator, otherwise, it’s the stator’s fault.

[@danb8759]

I have a grizzly 660 rectifier it passed diode but one of the legs was .48 the others .515 it didn’t work could this be why it didn’t charge as I replaced with another reg and all was good ?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Sound like you found the problem. However worth doing a check on the alternator too . I have a video on that here>> kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirMsi=hKX6J0lMviVM40XQ

[@RsiX_productions]

excellent video , well explained ! got a 2001 r6 , found a burnt wire to my rectifier , bike been running fine until warm then feels weaker . Battery now wont even charge from wall charger ! Hoping my rectifier and stator are ok and its just a burnt plug . Got new plug ordered now need to test the rectifier as youve shown

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you glad the video was helpful. Just a burned plug will be ideal. In my case I went through a load of testing … and it ended up being an old battery that just gave up

[@CaptBill69]

Obtained a new rectifier from eBay for my 97 Kawasaki KLR650 ...The Diode test only works on negative ground to 3 stator terminals, but is Open on the battery terminal connection of rectifier in both directions. Not sure if I want to test n my Motorcycle (but might) because it is not giving me the testing results I expected. ... so still studying. Thanks for lesson.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you. Glad to hear the video was of some use 😊

[@jbogalho]

Running this test, 1 of the phases seems to be bad. But with the bike running, the charge at the battery is ok, over 13v at 3000rpm, 15v at 5000rpm or more. What does this mean? My lights, horn, etc don't seem quite right, although it all works, and the battery after a ride sometimes is fully charged, sometimes (most times? Is at 12.7v...

[@waldemargolowko6534]

Thanks. Helpful. Simple explanation.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks for watching

[@hakanjutblad7422]

How much/ what span is ok on the reading as it flucurates? eg. reading on mine 0.498 0,512, 0.517 is that ok?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Generally you are looking for a reading. Blank or zero would be bad.

[@jeffreystroman2811]

In a diode,check the dmm (digital multi meter) is showing you the voltage drop across a foward biased junction. Some meters produce enough to faintly light an led, but if not will look like a bad junction, just something to keep in mind.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you

[@menombakglobalis]

how to measure voltage AC ripple? How much the maximum tolerance?

[@trentfrompunchbowl]

Awesome tutorial. I just checked it on my dr650. Nearly identical. I have a question I tested stator plug it is reading about 1.8ohm testing the phases. The manual says 0.5 to 1.5 ohms is the good range. I tested the phases to earth and they came back correct. Any ideas

[@FabMotorbikes]

When testing for resistance you need to take in to account the resistance of the wires in your multimeter. I have another video in testing the stator here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirMsi=5fkQWCTR9vzqW3NO. I cover that in the video

[@trentfrompunchbowl]

@@FabMotorbikes yea man you are right the stator is fine and regulator good then. Do you know any other causes that would stop battery from charging. Goes dead after a few rides. I put new starter in and battery was tested where I bought it new

[@wtongtube]

Great video mate. Some confusion for me though - I have the exact same looking rectifier (Tourmax SH683-2) but my red and black leads are the two outside terminals on the bottom row of 3. How do I test this type of configuration? Thanks.

[@vetteluvnh]

Rectifier wires on my 01 Yamaha R1 getting super hot. Probably needs to be replaced. This will confirm. Thank you.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks for watching, hope it gets sorted 👍

[@angrypants7619]

Hi, getting a reading of 4.1 on all where yours is 0.5 My battery is not charging it stays on 12v when tested running, do you think this is the fault?

[@anthonytheiss1296]

Mine is 4.25 and climbs to 4.35 after three mine is hot on startup cooking the frame before the motor gets warm is it a rectifier or stator ,bike charges fine

[@FabMotorbikes]

Not sure. But if you’re bike is charging fine you should have a worry

[@motorman7130]

Hi. I have a question that i hope you can answer. I checked my rectifier and followed your procedure and my rectifier seems fine and working. The problem with my bike is when engine is off the reading is 12.5 to 12.7 when i start the bike and in idle the reading goes up to 13.7 but when i rev it to around 5k rpm , it just drops to 13.2 and back to 13.7 again when going back to idle. I always recharge my battery recently because it keeps getting drain. what could be the problem? Is it my battery or stator? Thanks

[@FabMotorbikes]

Hi! Thanks for your question. It does sound like your rectifier is fine. You could have a battery that is going to the end of its life… or (based on your voltage dropping on revving) it could be the stator that is the issue. Have you seen my video in testing the stator? kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM

[@motorman7130]

@@FabMotorbikes thanks

[@waldemargolowko6534]

Pass test. But reading i 4.6 ... Yours was 5.6.. Still good or readings to low?

[@waldemargolowko6534]

My pass test but readings are lower. 4.6. With running engine charging shows 16.2 volts. Too much. . Is regulator faulty or else?

[@BlazeroToSixty]

What is the lowest the reading should be? I was informed it should be 0.45 at the lowest.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Sounds correct. Although in these tests it’s more about whether there is or is not a reading at all

[@fishdefender3636]

Big help mate been having issues with my bike not holding charge ive replaced the stator start relay,flasher relay starter motor didnt think of the rectifer but just xhecked and mine only hitting 0.0023

[@FabMotorbikes]

Cheers for watching. Sounds like it could very well be that

[@aelsenusi9440]

When i did the forward/positive bias test it showed no reading for me. Is this a sign that the regulator is faulty?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Yes

[@paulwolf8409]

this test does not work on my 07 triumph regulator.negative bias shows 1.7 on new regulator from ricks motorsports.

[@PBX0007]

I‘ve got a Honda CB600F Hornet PC34. Sometimes it doesn’t start except if I jumpstart it, so I replaced the battery. And it worked for the last few days. Yesterday as I was riding I had to accelerate more than usual for it not to stall. Suddenly it just shut off. The battery was showing around 9 Volts. I jumpstarted it again, drove like 200m and it died again. Any idea what it could be ?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Sounds like you have a charging issue or a voltage leak. May be worth going through steps on this video. You might also want to check the health of your stator . I have a video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM

[@masterdisasterXIII]

Thanks! My electrical system had much lower than expected voltage when running and this test allowed to confirm that one of my diodes was passing current both ways. Will order a new rectifier and hopefully charging issues will get resolved

[@FabMotorbikes]

Really happy to hear the video was helpful. Glad you’re getting it sorted 👍

[@mattskirde7532]

Good videos thanks. Tested my 3 phase regulator rectifier and stator per your videos as I lost all power whilst riding. Battery voltage good 12.4 and charging when running at 13.7 so happy there. Terminals clean and tight. Stator test perfect. All results of regulator rectifier test same as yours with exception of positive bias against positive input, reading .112 instead of .540. Will try and get some specs out of Yamaha, but noting the charging is ok, I feel these readings are fine. At a loss as to the loss of power 🤔

[@FabMotorbikes]

Have you tried texting or maybe replacing your battery? I went through all these tests and it just ended up being an old battery that will no longer hold a charge

[@stephenricketts2067]

I have to try this the weekend. I've been having problems with my bike going dead and it left me stranded the other day after 20 minutes of highway riding. I bought a new battery and installed and same result. I'm losing my mind over whats happening. The bike is a 2020 bonneville t120 and I didn't expect to have this issues.

[@Bellathebear777]

@@stephenricketts2067 Did you find the problem?

[@stephenricketts2067]

@@Bellathebear777 yes I did. Rectifier needed to be replaced

[@fulesmackofule]

Exactly my story with a Suzuki SV650 2002. Seems like my next step is to test/replace the rectifier...

[@ashleyrobison248]

When testing mine is testing the opposite, putting positive on the left top and negative to the other three is giving me around .4 for each. And OL the opposite with positive on the top left and negative on the other three. Why is this

[@FabMotorbikes]

They all vary. I did notice that with mine I had to test it at the unit rather than at the end of the cables coming out of it. This also made it confusing

[@MrBerenguer67]

Thks four your excellent video just a question my PiaggioZip 2T all the bulbs headlights and rear all blow in same time what you think this can be the voltage Regulator thank you

[@FabMotorbikes]

This could be the regulator, or the stator. I have a video on testing that on my channel too. I would also recommend checking you have the correct fuses in your bike. As usually the fuse will blow before the bulbs do

[@MrBerenguer67]

@@FabMotorbikes many Thks to reply yes is 7.5 fuse is correct one I’m surprise the fuse don’t blow out thank you again I’m going to check

[@TheElstonlad]

I have just been testing my regulator as my bike isn't charging, the diodes seem to be working in that the current is flowing in the direction it meant to but the readings were between .65-.68, would this be the issue?

[@FabMotorbikes]

This seems to be okay. Often it’s the cases where you are getting no reading at all in the forward bias readings that create the issue. I’d recommend testing your stator next. For me the issue ended up being a battery that had just reached the end of its life

[@TheElstonlad]

@@FabMotorbikes thank you for reply! I tested the stator first, I might have done it wrong, I just tested if it was earthing out with the casing

[@FabMotorbikes]

I’ve got a video on that too if it helps (here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM) it covers 4 ways to test 👍👍

[@wayde4192]

Excellent video. Helpful, clear & concise. Thanks

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you. Glad it was useful

[@edsmotomindset]

Can it change when the Regulator Rectifier heats up?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Not sure if I’m honest.

[@edsmotomindset]

@ ok thx! I got the feeling it’s working fine but as soon as it gets hot it’s pushing to high voltages

[@rxWar]

Thnks bro, straigth to the point

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you for watching

[@omarrivera2603]

Hey how you doing, question, my 2008 yamaha vstar is having problems with the charging system, i took the rectifier out and it has 6 pins connector and the bike has 5 pins connector, how's that possible? Thanks

[@FabMotorbikes]

Hi there , this is common and normal. Often the sixth pin is just for support and won’t do anything. But to be sure … you can perform the tests on the “sixth” pin and see if there is any reading. If I’m correct (I might not be) you will get no reading on the multimeter.

[@johntavismealing]

I have a 2013 kx450 and I’m reading .527 across all 3. And reverse bias test is good. Does that mean it’s good ? Or those numbers are too low

[@FabMotorbikes]

Seems all good. Generally you are looking for similar readings across the board

[@dion_the_entrepreneur]

Can a positive battery cable that made contact with the frame, blow out a rectifier?

[@FabMotorbikes]

If I’m honest I’m not sure. But I have done this quite a few times myself (causing sparks) and it has never blown out the rectifier.

should there be resistance between + and - ?

[@antonpereraperera455]

Thank you very much my friend god bless you see you

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you. Hope the video was helpful

[@leecooper845]

my charging system on my 2013 ultra cvo shows only 13.4 volts while riding. Is this a problem

[@FabMotorbikes]

sounds okay as long as you are not having any problems

[@bentagliarini7918]

Hoping you can help me, electrics not my best thing, im autistic, could you help me with this on my 2001 fazer1000 please, my readings are higher than yours but there's electrical fault with my bike. Bike wouldnt start the other week, then exhaust went bang fire came out, then charged battery 3hrs trickle charge then still woulnt start, then got it started but didn't sound right. Then started ok few days later, fitted new chain sprockets but smaller rear a 39 rather than the 44 so thought this reason why speedo cutting out needles bouncing all over place when went out for a ride 1hr, so ordered speedo healer but not fitted yet. Went out for ride on 14,10,23 for 1hr 30 mins, had lights on for half my ride then 40 mins from the end i was causing 60ish then bike trying cut out 3times them speedo cut out, so turned lights on took it easy for 15 mins before going fast then seemed ok, next day 15,10,23 started bike twice, in the day while waiting parts, got the multimetre you have now to test it once off but before that, bike running ok 5mins then speedo died then funny noise from bike so turned off, then tryed start it then dead, could I have problems with my battery or starter motor or both? Or somthinking else? Connections seem ok on regulator rectifier not burnt out as i was asked check as normally electrical backfires due to regulator rectifier faults, so 636 , 620 then 636 on my test like you did, everything else same as your test on other tests, but 1st tests were higher as above but my bike not 600 like yours its a 1000 fazer 2001. Not sure what to do next, not checked other electrical fixings yet, was hoping be regulator rectifier then just east fix but now im totally lost where else to check, was my bike supposed to take higher reading than yours? Dont really know what to do but want learn how fix it myself. If you can much obliged, cheers

[@MarcoDiPietro-sd9rf]

I just followed your instructions. In my rectifier i have values around 470. Is that ok or it must be around 520?

[@FabMotorbikes]

This should be okay. Usually the problem is if you are getting no reading at all

[@CC-NH]

Nice job on your video !! it is clear and to the point...

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you. Hope it was useful

[@Mythslayer88]

I tested my rectifier and one pin was in the 500's and the other 2 were in the 600's. Does that mean its bad ? 1999 Suzuki Intruder VL1500. Hope you see this question.. Thanks.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Based on the info you e given me, your rectifier should’ve okay. Issues occur when you are getting blank readings. You might want to check the health of you stator . I have a video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM And also check you battery health. I did loads of electrical tests and on the end all I had to do was replace my battery

[@asifchohdary]

Sir my rectifier showing forward bise only from one side Does it faulty ? Actually my bike not charging battery

[@FabMotorbikes]

That does sound faulty. Especially if your bike is not charging the battery

[@NorthSea_Clipz]

Thank you so much for this video man!

[@FabMotorbikes]

You’re welcome! Grope it was helpful

[@vaibhavaggarwal9967]

How to identify output point and also how to identify positive and negative terminals

[@FabMotorbikes]

The easiest way to do this to look at the wires coming out off the device? The the fazes will have white wires and the pos+ and neg- will have a a black and red wire. In my case the rectifier doesn’t have any wires coming off of it so I would have to look at the plug that goes into it. But on most bikes there should be 3 white wires and a black and red wire coming out to a plug

[@paul8158]

Excellent! My recitifier is shot! Thanks

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you

[@tamy761116]

Can see very clear and easy to understand .thks

[@FabMotorbikes]

Happy it was useful 👍

[@edlaoyeah]

hi! i dont have a 2k on my multimeter but i do have a 6k one what kind of reading should i expect from a working regulator?

[@FabMotorbikes]

hello, you should get the same type of reading. What is most important is that you are using the 'diode' setting, which is that arrow symbol. thanks

[@edlaoyeah]

@@FabMotorbikes Thank you for replying God bless!

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you no problem 👍

[@moslimislam5714]

Just to be sure: If this test comes out as it should. Can I completely rule out there is any problem with the rectifier?

[@FabMotorbikes]

That should be the case

[@moslimislam5714]

@@FabMotorbikes thank you!

[@s8torre]

Gracias gran video. Saludos desde Honduras. Nica bike.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Gracias!

[@jamessharr8095]

Hi I just tested my rectifier as in your video and I'm getting a reading of around 2.6 on each of the phases is this ok or not? Thanks james

[@FabMotorbikes]

From what you have told me it should be okay. Difficult to be sure though

[@jamessharr8095]

@@FabMotorbikes thanks, I've put it back together and put copper slip on the back of the rectifier and on the bolts to make sure the earth was good against the frame, and it idles at 14.5v constant so fingers crossed . Cheers

[@pointyanto]

Hey so my regulator has 6 prongs on it. It’s a ninja 250r. Would the test be the same with the additional prong?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Hello, yes this should still work. I have sometimes seen them with six prongs and the sixth is often there for physical support, is a grounding node or doesn't do anything. You can also test if is connected to anything by performing this test on it. Let me know how you get on.

[@janisvinters8797]

Good informative one. Thanks. Keep that way!

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks!

[@yeahrightmate]

My battery goes flat over night if I leave it connected so after every ride I need to pull one of the terminals off, so would that be rectifier problems or maybe the stator. Thanks.

[@FabMotorbikes]

It seems you may have a parasitic drain somewhere. This is more of a stator problem. I have another video that will help you with this 👍

[@yeahrightmate]

@@FabMotorbikes Yes thanks it was in the relay for the horns.

[@FabMotorbikes]

@@yeahrightmate glad you got it sorted : )

[@coreycook4019]

@@FabMotorbikes where’s the video. Can you email it to me.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Here’s the video I made to help get the stator sorted >> kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM 👍👍

[@VinnyV_01]

Would a bad regulator rectifier not only let the battery go down but cause the lights to get brighter with engine revs? I am pretty sure this is my issue but finding a regulator for a 2008 TOMOS moped is not easy.

[@FabMotorbikes]

As far as I know these issues aren’t related. It’s very common for lights to brighten slightly when engine revs. However once on the live this shouldn’t happen anymore. Only when warming up. I’d recommend getting your battery checked out. I went through all these problems and it turned out just to be a bad battery

[@VinnyV_01]

@@FabMotorbikes thanks for the info. I installed a new battery and it's run down. I haven't done anything else yet

[@FabMotorbikes]

Could be the regulator… or the stator. I have a video on that too >> kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM .

[@atrocitus9804]

Hey my bike died and is stator or regulator. After watching this video I'm assuming it's regulator because on the positive bias I'm getting. .506 .507 and the final one is reading 000 does this mean it's bad for sure? Also the negative test also failed on two of them.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Yea sounds like your regulator is shot. Worth checking your stator as well though. I have a video on this too: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM Also check if you have a dud battery, I conducted all these tests and end just needing a new battery

[@SamBassComedy]

Perfect explanation. Thank you!

[@FabMotorbikes]

Glad to be of service! Thank you for watching

[@GGundamBlue]

Will a bad voltage regulator cause any idle issues or headlights or blinkers to go dim?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Yes these can (not definitely) be some symptoms of a bad regulator

[@GGundamBlue]

@@FabMotorbikes alright I'll do my test on it it's the original from 2006 it's on a 2006 Honda cb600f (599) I just noticed everything dim and I turn on my right blinker and the left blinks slightly as well gonna check my battery as well for good charge and check relays and grounds

[@FabMotorbikes]

I had simile problems before performing this test. After all… it turned out to be a battery that had just given up. But worth testing everything. I also have a stator testing video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM

[@GGundamBlue]

@@FabMotorbikes alright thanks really appreciate the help

[@FabMotorbikes]

No problem

[@trevorkuun199]

I have a battery that has reversed polarity so I took it out, then kick started the bike and tested the wires that connect to the battery, and I get a negative 12. Something volts depending on the revs. All electrics work except obviously the starter. Does anyone know what is stuffed?

[@FabMotorbikes]

any luck on getting to the bottom of this? This is a really unique problem and I'm not exactly sure how to fix it. But would be interested in what caused it and how you fixed it.

[@trevorkuun199]

@@FabMotorbikes yes, i did find the problem and this is rather embarrassing? i had my new multi meters cables in the wrong way around.

[@FabMotorbikes]

Ah well 😊 I’m sure not the first time it has happened to someone and surely not the last. Glad it’s sorted 👍

[@JohnJones-or4qh]

The black wire on my regulator is negative ground power source.

[@younesboukroun3060]

how to change it in the xt 660?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Sorry not sure. Never had that bike. Great bike though 👍Although replacing it in any bike is usually very straight forward

[@normski262]

hah i have exact same as you but I now seem to have neg bias, so its all back to front, so I am taking that as my regulator is screwed , yes ? and thats with my new regulator which has now only done 100 miles, it was putting out over 20v before it blow out the dip beam and stopped.

[@FabMotorbikes]

It does sound like it’s broken. Although it’s very easy to get everything back to front when testing so worth another shot. Worth also testing your stator too, I have a video for that too

[@normski262]

@@FabMotorbikes AHAH, Yes took the stator out and tested it works fine, but already had new one, so installed that, so in a way it proves its the controller ( again), 20 pound China version, but I did read the revies and many said they were ok, but its little bit of gamble. With the stator the idle gear got jammed so had remove the air box, and remove the starter to reseat the idle gear correctly. yea its been fun , ahhah NOT!!

[@mrdealencar]

Please man I need help My positive bias is... .120 And on second test Forward positive bias is .. .516 as your video demonstrated . So that means I have a problem???? I had two battery destroyed the batteries got big and rounded egg smell etc.. Now I order a new rectifier regulator and the measurement is also .120 and .520 ... as the old one.. Not sure now what is my problem as I was convinced that it was the rectifier problem .. any advice please

[@FabMotorbikes]

Hi sorry late reply. You sound like you are having over charging problems. This can be the regular/rectifier but might not be in your case. I would also check the stator (see my video>> kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM). You may also have some shorts in the circulate that maybe damaging the battery. (The fourth test in my video will look for this). I would also be wary to use a high quality battery charger when recharging batteries. It’s very easy to over do it. I’ve done it myself 🤣

[@jamesbye6251]

Hi I am getting the same on my Daytona 675, I leave it on trickle charge and it starts fine but after an hour riding the bike will cut out on me unless I’m holding over 4000 revs! Any ideas?

[@xxDEADFAMOUSxx]

Wouldnt a MOSFET reg/rec show an open line on the Forward Bias due to the switches inside but still be in working order? I appreciate this is for YOUR reg/rec, after reading the comments. But nowhere else do you state this is a test for non MOSFET/only for your reg/rec.

[@FabMotorbikes]

excellent point, this is a non-MOSFET reg/rec

[@xxDEADFAMOUSxx]

@@FabMotorbikes i mention this only as a friend pointed me to this video after testing his reg/reg. But it was MOSFET. He is an amateur when it comes to bike electronics and assumed this was for all regs with a 5 pin config.

[@FabMotorbikes]

No unfortunately not. Apologies for this. Nice work on picking up on this, something I overlooked. Hopefully your friend found some value in it. Overall, I was just documenting my journey of doing work on my motorcycle 😊

[@CP-kb1du]

Straight Forward Proper ...thks

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you. Glad it was useful

[@kreni1983]

How found on onknown regulator find come in voltage and come aut charge batery sory for language

[@FabMotorbikes]

I would love to help but don't fully understand you question. Thank you for watching

[@kreni1983]

@@FabMotorbikes i am by regulator on alliexpres chinese when is coming is not mark positive or negative bicause i have Peugot Traker scooter and i cant find originaly regulator .Im asked you can i find with multimeter where is coming cable from magnet rotor on regulator or what is coming in wat is out from regulator +, - .I hope so you anderstend me.Thanks for answer

[@omnivore2220]

Well that checked the diodes, and thank you for that! But I don't think it tested the regulator function at all.

[@axelsaul4207]

Could it fail and charge less than 12v?

[@FabMotorbikes]

This could be a possibility but I don’t think your battery would last long

[@dovybar]

Hello. Negative lead on positive side I get following reading : .553,.553,.544 Positive lead on negative side : .557,.521,.551. Are the small differences indicating faulty rectifier? Thanks!

[@FabMotorbikes]

Hi, the reading all seem too small to indicate any fault. Based on my experience the reading you have given mean your rectifier is fine.

[@dovybar]

@@FabMotorbikes thank you for replying! My stator is faulty and I need to change it. Would you still recommend me to change the rectifier as well?

[@FabMotorbikes]

No I think there isn’t much need to change your rectifier right now. If you are sure the stator is the issue start with just that. If you haven’t test that yet here is a video on how I did it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqjOf4mAp96BirM . I found that what I needed was a new battery and not a new stator. I hope this helps you👍

[@dovybar]

@@FabMotorbikes thanks a lot!

[@jordanpulvirenti7769]

I have had to replace my battery multiple times this year. The battery goes dead and will no longer charge. (Dead cell I assume) I have a 6v system on a 1986 yamaha tt350, which has only a regulator. The regulator has a single wire coming out and is grounded to the frame. Can I do the test you performed on such a regulator Cheers :)

[@FabMotorbikes]

Hi thanks for watching. Ye so believe you can. Although difficult to tell until you get it out. Should be easy to remove though

[@aircooleddriver1970]

Loaded and to the point, good tutorial Mate 🤙🏼 Is there simple way to test CDI and Coil?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks for watching, glad it was useful. Those tests are not something I’ve had to do thus far. I’m teaching myself and learning on the job too 👍 until I’ve done it and understand the process perfectly, I can’t really put out a video on it . Thanks again though

[@eduardomoreno1990]

Great video, thank you for the very nice explanation.

[@FabMotorbikes]

No problem. Thank you for watching, hope it was helpful 👍

[@paulrumbold2436]

Super , super video buddy . Really helped me

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful 👍

[@TheOtherJCole]

My readings are all around .630, what could that mean?

[@FabMotorbikes]

Most important you are getting readings all round. Which is a sign things are okay

[@TheOtherJCole]

I just managed to get the stator coupling dislodged and may have found the culprit. Smells like a fog machine gone bad 😭😭

[@TheOtherJCole]

They melted together

[@TheOtherJCole]

I replaced my stator and it rode for about an hour before it died in traffic 😭

[@Koushik_Creation582]

This RR unit good or not ?

[@FabMotorbikes]

It was all good

[@Koushik_Creation582]

@@FabMotorbikes Ty 😍 Fast replay

[@troymattingly3071]

Thank you for the excellent instruction!💯

[@FabMotorbikes]

Thank you glad it was useful