How To Test A Whirlpool Dryer Timer (No Heat)

[@96150coconut]

Great Video. If people want to take it one step further ... One can take the timer apart, clean the contacts and see if that doesn't fix the continuity problem.

[@Arya885]

Fantastic video that finally helped me find out what was wrong! Was going crazy because all the thermostats and fuses showed continuity. Symptoms started with dryer running but no heat on the timed setting (auto setting was working though). Fast forward a few months and the auto setting doesn’t work either. The C-A connection on my unit never shows continuity despite the « closed switch » scenarios table on the diagram. Hopefully the replacement will fix our issues.

[@joezomby1]

Hope it works for you. Thanks for watching.

[@trixietoes3039]

Awesome video, quickly determined my timer was bad. Kept troubleshooting to a minimum

[@joezomby1]

Thank you

[@fullmetalfunk]

had to do this today, thanks for this!

[@joezomby1]

You're welcome, thanks for watching

[@dlittlester]

I'm suspecting that's my problem as well. Again, thanks for the great video. This dryer is dryving me nuts!

[@joezomby1]

Hope you fix it.

[@dlittlester]

The heating element checked out okay out of the dryer, but I ran some clothes through today, and when it got hot, some of the coils touched the body of the dryer. Then I noticed that the plate in the middle of the coils had warped and bent inwards. Tomorrow I'll see if I can unbend it and get it working again. If not, I'll have to buy a new element. Wish me luck!!

[@joezomby1]

Good luck!

[@dlittlester]

Found the problem! Originally, the dryer overheated because of a plugged up vent. The element coils are separated by a metal plate that had warped. When it was on the bench it tested good. I even took it to an appliance shop, and they said it was good. Everything worked okay until it hit a higher temperature, but then it shorted out against the body of the dryer. So I pushed it back so that it was reasonably flat again, and now the dryer works perfectly. The heater stops on cool down and in fluff modes. I learned some major lessons about how these things work, and I appreciate what I learned from you. Thanks a bunch!

[@joezomby1]

Thank you, I'm glad you got it fixed.

[@bullrunhunter6489]

My dryer will not turn on. Bought it used Saturday and it was shutting off by itself. Managed to dry 3 loads and on the 4th it quit working. I’ve tested all of the sensors and they all have continuity. Heating element is fine. Narrowed it down to either motor or timer. Apparently the timer affects it from running so I have a couple choices. Can run toggle switches and manage to never leave it unattended or as I just pulled the timer apart and the contacts look like new but the timer has plastic ringed cam lobes that activate the contact points. Superglued mine and saved $90 for a part that cost more than what I paid for the dryer. Super easy to fix if anyone out there ever pulls one apart and finds good contacts don’t bother buying a replacement just fix it. Forgot to mention be sure you have the full ring. The bottom one which will look fine is probably the broken one if it won’t start at all. Make sure you clock it in the exact same position or it won’t work correctly. It has two tabs normally and looks like one breaks very easy.

[@abrahamvaro775]

Very nice video ,thanks

[@joezomby1]

You're welcome, thanks for watching

[@williecunningham3725]

Do I have to test it by taking it out, can it be tested while connected in the dryer?

[@joezomby1]

You can test it in the dryer as long as the power wires are removed.

[@allison-hc7ki]

Great video, thanks for posting. I'm confused about where the diagram shows "BK-BU-V" ... I know which wires these are, but am I supposed to test all three at once? I get continuity on BK-BU. But if I bridge BK-BU-V, I also get continuity, where the diagram says it should be open. BK-V reads open. Could this diagram be saying "either BK, or BU to V should read open?

[@joezomby1]

You should have continuity between BK and BU. I believe that you should have an open between BK and V and an open between BU and V. It's confusing.

[@allison-hc7ki]

Thanks, that makes sense to me!

[@sailingeden9866]

Could you explain what, either not both and where specified means?

[@squirrelattackspidy]

Can a bad timer cause intermittent lack of heat on the dryer? I had a tech come out and he told me that it could, but he checked everything with the multimeter except the timer. Thanks!

[@joezomby1]

Yes. It can cause no heat on one cycle and normal heat on another.

[@squirrelattackspidy]

@@joezomby1 Thanks for that. I don't seem to be a rhyme or reason. Sometimes it heats and other it doesn't. First it was the "more dry / less dry" setting failing. Then the timed dry went. The thing still cycles but the heating is intermittent. Usually if it kicks in it will work within about 5 minutes of the timed cycle. But I have to keep moving the dial back to the start of the 60 minute timed cycle and trying it again.

[@DavidLee-vp3nr]

@@squirrelattackspidy Did you ever find the problem?

[@richardbest3079]

Well I already checked the bottom and gave it a good cleaning while I had it apart so now I have to check the timer.

[@michaelrod3914]

thank you so much

[@joezomby1]

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

[@-AnyWho]

i cant hear your volume ...

[@joezomby1]

I checked it out and the audio is working fine.