How to THOROUGHLY Flush Your Yamaha Outboard

This is the SECOND upload of this video. On the first video, I messed up on the opening music and needed to redo and upload the video.
This video is a first attempt at chemically flushing the entire power head of my F115 Yamaha 4-stroke outboard. My first attempt was with a household descaler called Lyme Away and you can see the results of about 4 to 6 hours of flushing. The second attempt was with an industrial strength descaler called Rydlyme. I have also heard that I could have used another popular product (in kit form) called Salt Away. The outside of your motor can look brand new but deep inside the engine block, there is a cancer slowly growing. This method of flushing ends and reverses the scale buildup that results in overheating.
It is on my todo list to do a thorough flush and change my zincs every 6 months mainly because I go offshore once or twice a week and just the 5 minute fresh water flush when I get home is OBVIOUSLY not enough.
I want to personally thank SeaTow for their quick response when I needed them while coming in from deep sea fishing and my motor over heated and just stopped while running at 4500 RPM's. I hope that I never have to use them again.. but I am secure in knowing that my yearly membership provides me with proof, that I can rely on them when and if trouble comes a calling while out in the boat.

[@michaelm1965]

I use Ospho metal conditioner. It does not react adversely to the aluminum as much as Rydlyme. Ace hardware stocks it in the store for pickup. Remove the lower unit and attach your recirculation pump hose to the water pump pickup tube. Remove the thermostat and anodes.With the engine off and the Ospho diluted start circulating the chemical throughout the cooling system. Flush for a few hours than let it sit within the cooling passageways for atleast two to four hours then repeat as necessary. Flushing your outboard motor with the earmuffs after running it in salt water does not do very much because the engine never reaches operating temperature and the thermostat remains closed. Instead, use a large garbage can and or container filled with fresh water and run the engine until the water gets warm. Usually takes about fifteen to thirty minutes to flush it out properly.

[@jbuchan8114]

Limeaway is a great choice. I worked for the company that makes limeaway. It’s used in restaurants and hotels to descale dish machines that are stainless steel and aluminum. Good call

[@dannie3117]

Lots of work but worth every ounce. That motor should keep on going for many years! I've been looking at my 115 Mercury 2015 engine and it doesn't have any anodes on the engine. And the anodes it does have are aluminium. I'm definitely going to look into flushing the engine with that line removal product. Thanks, Lane. I always run my engine after every trip and make sure it heats up. Haven't had any problems but it's always good to stay on top of things

[@SaltyKayak]

Hi Danny, Aluminum anodes.. on an aluminum engine? I might be missing something but I thought yo9u needed a 'sacrificial' metal and not the same metal. The motor ran GREAT today but we only stayed i the inlet area and fished the jetty. Too rough off shore. But I caught 3 Cownose Rays, one big Red Drum, a huge nurse shark and 14 Mangroves of which I gave John a couple and I kept 5... Fun day on the water...

[@dannie3117]

@@SaltyKayak I'm a bit confused on that as well, but I do have three zinc anodes external. One on trim motor, trim tab and lower end. but according to Mercury there are none on the motor?? I looked it over very well and none to be found. My youngest son came down ans we got offshore. Conditions were pretty good but a little choppy. And we caught our limit in red snapper, Ha! Went out Friday and Saturday very early to avoid the masses. The FWC youngsters got me when we docked and asked how did we do and I raised my hands in victory and said we got our limit. We caught some 3 pounders, but they were red. Even better we caught 6 nice Vermilions. I'll probably go out Friday alone to get my one rs. Hope you and John make it offshore to let me see some big rs being taken home!

[@MEGA_SOKO]

I enjoy watching your fishing trips. What do you use for a camera setup? I like the wearable camera idea, hands free!.

[@GameCastCubed]

Make sure it is circulating by taking out the thermostat. The best way to do it is through the input tube when the lower unit is off.

[@SaltyKayak]

Yes.. I took out and cleaned the thermostat while the flush was circulating..

[@CUBICHI1985]

I was thinking of doing this exact same thing...flush my motor through the pickup tube. Does anyone know if it would be safe to do so with the motor running? Provided one can rig something up to give enough pressure up the pickup tube, so as to cool the head and prevent an overheat instance, of course.. Would love to hear y'alls thoughts on this. Many thanks in advance

[@rickcolley1070]

Great video thank you for sharing your experience. Did it stop the overheat issue? Thank you another Florida boater.

[@SaltyKayak]

When I flushed it with Rydlyme as per the instructions, that stopped the 'stopping while at near full throttle' issue. I didn't have a temp gauge from the motor to tell me when it was overheating but it ran like new after the flush.

[@pensacolafishingfriends4219]

Oh... and the toilet bowl cleaner they have there also will clean the water stains on the hull insted of the expensive marine acids.

[@darenleeper1644]

Have you tried saltaway. When you flush after use you can hook an inline bottle to hose while flushing it. Its also marine safe so you can do it in the slip.

[@mauroalvarezsi]

Saltaway doesn’t do a thing for internal engine

[@caingarcia99]

CLR works amazing for all kinds of build up

[@SaltyKayak]

I think both CLR and Lyme Away work basically the same and are what I call 'household' strength whereas Salt Away and Rydlyme are industrial strength and more acidic in nature.

[@skunkedagain]

Where do you buy the injector filters? I want to clean mine. Part number too? Thanks

[@rickcolley1070]

I just need to ask did this take care of your overheating problem, captain. Thank you for taking the time to put on these videos. Very informative.

[@SaltyKayak]

Rydlyme... is the best and quickest solution. Yes, I had to pay a little more for it but from what I could tell after a good long flush.. by following the directions.. the motor ran clean and cool up until I sold the boat not long after I did this flush. This might be upsetting to some, but when I saw that Biden was going to be President, I knew I wouldn't be able to afford the cost of non-E gas (I am retired and on SS). And I was absolutely right.. gas prices skyrocketed AFTER I bailed on the boat.

[@rickcolley1070]

Thank you I didn’t receive a reply. Thanks for answering it twice lol.

[@MrJohnestall]

Anodes are designed to waste away , after time they do go to a type of zinc paste , it’s because they are working . To flush an outboard just put it in a tub and run it up to temperature so thermostat opens and job done

[@wallyfo]

When I change out my lower unit oil, it too had some milky (water in oil) stuff In it, well I almost found out the hard way that all the seals were bad. Might want to do a pressure test for the seals. Don't need it locking up on the water/offshore. Hope you catch a red snapper!

[@SaltyKayak]

Hi WF, Pretty sure I found out the oil leak problem. When I took the boat in for the 100 hr (more like 200 hr) maintenance, the shop had put in new oil in the lower unit but had also put teflon tape on the bottom screw. That tape must have created a micro gap in the screw/threads and for the last year, it slowly drew in water and expelled micro amounts of oil. The gasket they used looked like it was my old plastic gasket instead of a new one and they used teflon tape instead of a new gasket. Everybody is out to cut costs and try to sneak in inferior repairs.. that's why I prefer to do it myself. That way, if I have a failure.. it's my fault and not a care(less) tech..

[@wallyfo]

@@SaltyKayak WOW!! Yes sir, I try to do all repairs for that reason also. That's good that's all it was. I have to replace my lower unit. I had a nice size chip out of one of the gears from water in oil. New one 2,500 used $500-$1000. Hopefully get it fixed in the next couple days for the last day of red snapper season.

[@SaltyKayak]

@@wallyfo I'm in the same boat.. so to speak.. in that the boat has dry for the last 4 days. but plan on going this coming Friday for my one keeper RS this year. Plan on a water test tomorrow and determine if I want to go off shore on Friday..

[@pensacolafishingfriends4219]

There is a dollar tree verison of lime away if your interested. It's not as powerful but 80% cheaper doing the same work seems logical.

[@SaltyKayak]

I will check it out.. thanks. Save a $ here save a $ there and go fishing more...!

[@robertmcdonald690]

Need to use sait a way it works the best for Salt water motors.

[@hookednrolling2009]

Hey Capt Salty you could go by a canal and back in the ramp and run motor for ten minutes in fresh water. I can’t do that anymore my boat is almost 26 ft long but you can. JT 🇺🇸🇺🇸🐟🐠🎣🛥🌴⛱😊😊😊🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@SaltyKayak]

When I lived in NC, I would pull out of the ramp here in Ponce inlet and drive straight up to the Charlotte area. Only about 3 miles from my house was a fresh water lake and a ramp that I would back the trailer and boat back in. I would climb in the boat and start the engine and run it for 5 minutes in Forward and then a couple minutes in reverse and flush not only the motor but the trailer/tires and springs. But since I only live 3 miles from a ramp here in New Smyrna and there are no fresh water lakes nearby.. it's all about the hose and muffs..

[@catchinhail]

Good morning...... I have the same Yamaha 115. Question for you regarding your process for "flushing every time" Have you been flushing without motor running by using just the water house connection hose port? Or were you putting on ear muffs on the lower unit and running the motor? In my experience its a "must" to run the motor with muffs on for about 15 to 20 minutes to ensure the thermostat opens and water then circulates the entire system. Hope to hear what your process was before you had the overheating problem. Thanks!

[@SaltyKayak]

Always, always used the muffs but rarely have I flushed for 10-15 minutes.. usually more like 5 minutes and I usually will 'taste' the water coming out of the pee hole to make sure it doesn't have any salty taste. I can always tell just by the sound of the engine when the thermostat opens and will run it for 5 minutes+ after that. But, what I have found out is that when I am out in the ocean fishing for 4 or 6 hours and my engine is just sitting, over the weeks and months of doing this (even though I flush every time) there is a small corrosive buildup in all the water channels. That is when I need to do a true chemical flush.

[@catchinhail]

Great info! Thanks for the reply sir@@SaltyKayak

[@fredm365]

May be wise to change the water pump and the impeller after that flush ,they also advise to change the water pump and impeller yearly due to the sand in the water ,and just a FYI you can get a parts break down and part numbers at boats.net look them up by year and model number

[@SaltyKayak]

Hi Fred. I spent almost all of yesterday putting in a new pump/impeller assembly. Actually 3/4th of the day was getting that blasted metal cap and plastic bushing off of the shaft. I saw where one guy on KZbin just pried it off with a screw driver and another guy cur it off with a dremel. Of course, I tried (and eventually succeeded) with the screw driver/pry/hammer method but had to go to my local marine store for a new set due to destroying the bushing and cap. Nest time, I will just order one ahead of time and have it.. and cut off the old one when I do the next impeller change. Spent about 45 minutes just now putting the lower unit back in the motor (another first time doing) and will put the muffs on it for a test in another hour or so.. when all of my neighbors are up and around. I have cleand and rescued most of the old original Yamaha water pump assembly and will just order the basic kit for the next swap out... planning ahead..!

[@fredm365]

@@SaltyKayak Yes the kit will likely have everything you need ,That is what i have always bought ,and it does help when you have 2 people to put the lower unit back on ,one to handle and one to guide ,with my 2003 yam F60 you have to make sure the fwd/reverse shaft is correct ,hence the second person

[@1harley1000]

I have never seen a surface lime away liked your going to do more harm then good

[@chrism8013]

Lol, all those "cleaners" especially the ones marketed for boats, is a waste waste of money. White Vinegar is the cheapest and the best descaling agent you can use. Stinks but it's really cheap and plentiful at the grocery store. Used it for years to clean the scale from the pipes & pumps from my salt water reef tank.

[@country1861]

Hey salty what is the spelling for the redline product? Thanks!!

[@country1861]

Found it. Rydlyme is the spelling. Thanks for the video!!

[@SaltyKayak]

@@country1861 Here's a tip for you.. find a buddy that also wants to flush his motor and buy 4 gallons and split half the cost with him. It costs the SAME to ship one gallon as it does 4... Don't buy 2 gallons or 3.. the shipping will be $28 x3 but 4 gallons comes in a box and is $28..

[@country1861]

SaltyKayak that’s for the info!! Love your channel!!

[@Colt3854]

You need to flush your outboard for 15 minutes after use. A shorter time does not throughly clean the cooling channels.

[@r8drvr819]

I appreciate your video, BUT the process is not so easily understood!

[@fishydubsfishing6516]

Well salty I think your running to hard. And the motor running hotter it’s building up scale. Get your self a 200 hp and run at 2800 to 3300 rpm you’ll get better performance and use less fuel

[@jimcameron6297]

A BOAT IS A VOID IN THE WATER YOU THROW MONEY INTO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@SaltyKayak]

Hi Jim.. so true but THIS time, I spent about $300 and SAVED $700 by doing it myself and the BIG PLUS is I now can do it all myself... Next time, save even more and do it quicker.

[@todaytriper]

no more expense than golfing or racing