How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy

[@dmitryd3036]

Very well explained. Good to see the appreciation of what engineers want to get from preloaded bolt joint. A few comments from engineering point of view: 1. the most accurate way to get the correct bolt preload is with initial tightening. re-tightening torque gives you much bigger torque scatter even if the torque wrench is set to initial torque. 2. by cleaning the bolt thread with a wire wheel you are making two things: you make the thread surface a lot rougher which results in high thread friction that decreases your bolt preload; you increase the embedding losses in the bolt thread which results in the bolt relaxation (some loss of preload) by flattening the spikes in surface roughness.

[@michaelroberts4950]

⁰p pp 0⁰⁰p p⁰⁰

[@alro2434]

"Wire wheel", that's just high speed burnishing! Whidh is it 'thread surface a lot rougher' or 'flattening the spikes' - make up your mind!

[@timeless4495]

I'm not an engineer but I could see that being problematic

[@ericthecarguy]

@diorije You actually answered your own question, the tap is to create threads whereas the thread chaser is there to clean the threads. Great question and thanks for the comment.

[@dannyoktim9628]

Your fluent chose of word makes you an amazing teacher, so easy to learn from, and all your tips are worth a bounty. Thanks for sharing your skills.

[@ericthecarguy]

@spelunkerd Use it only when the bolt is going to seal a passage, on some engine blocks the threaded holes for the water pump go into the water passage, this would be an appropriate time for sealant. Cylinder head bolts should NEVER have sealant put on them however as they don't seal a passage but rather fasten the cylinder head to the block. Consult the service manual whenever you have a question about the use of sealant in a particular application just to be safe.

[@jenziie_olivia1384]

Believe it or not the foot pounds only refer to the force being applied to the bolt not the tightness of the bolt itself. That is why the guy tells us to clean thread etc. he is smart not dumb at all.

[@ericthecarguy]

@IIGrayfoxII Thanks for the info and your comment. It's nice to see that you have embraced the 21st century, we are still working on that here in the states.

[@smokextiresnotxdrugs8700]

people look up to the Rock, or even Dolph Lundgren, The real ROCKST@R, my man eric

[@ericthecarguy]

@letxen3 If the new bolts didn't come with washers don't install washers of your own. You could consult the service manual to see if washers were present to begin with if you wanted to be sure.

[@TEAMCREAM_96]

my manual says that when ever the bolt starts making a creaking sound you have to take it out and redo it

[@grzegorz16100]

nope nope Yes. This is a video how NOT TO torgue head bolts;)

[@socknetea]

@@grzegorz16100 cuz a guy with decades in the industry has ruined so many cars right? Use your head

[@grzegorz16100]

@@socknetea I have seen people with decades of "experience" who can't do shit. That doesn't prove anything. It might be that his headgasket will last 5 years instead of 10-20.

[@ericthecarguy]

@SovietSlayer There is nothing finer than a good torque wrench in my opinion. Good luck with that job and thanks for your comment.

[@ollopa1]

Actually I wouldn't use one of those torque angle gauges for 90 degrees. They can slip and it's far easier to just make a mark with a sharpie and turn it 90 degrees. For angles that aren't 90, 180, and 270 degrees, then I resort to the stupid torque angle gauge.

[@jon-erikbutcher3609]

or you can do sin, cosin or tangent to determine what lb/ft is the degree you need

[@ollopa1]

That doesn't make sense. Trig functions relate an angle to its two-dimensional components. The torque required to achieve a particular angle beyond the first torque depends on friction and material deformation. Tightening by angle is generally more uniform than tightening to the same measured torque anyway, which is the point.

[@pedritodirksz2916]

ollopa1 m

[@franciscohackett8696]

@@jon-erikbutcher3609 5l specification on cons rods bearing torque

[@ericthecarguy]

@kevtay1000 No need to replace the bolts they are not torque to yield bolts. If there is a torque spec with a degree measurement as opposed to a torque value those are usually stretch bolts and require replacement.

[@Scott-dy5ox]

It's only a matter of time before Miley Cyrus gets into automotive repair and starts torquing.

[@JohnSmith-qq3tv]

Jajaja! Lol. 👍

[@ericthecarguy]

@LuieDiaz1 After a head gasket job you will have smoke for a while due to the contamination that gets onto the parts during assembly and disassembly, it takes a little while for it to burn off. If you suspect a head gasket issue I suggest you test for it instead of speculating, watch the Diagnosing A Cooling System Overheat video for details on that test.

[@PavesGarage]

Anyone else hearing "Twerking"?

[@ACEspada01]

+Fact VS Conspiracy no

[@crystalpylant]

2256si99. kaleb

[@averyalexander2303]

no

[@Whelessry]

16:40

[@ericthecarguy]

@croom9 Thanks. I use a Sony HDR-SR11, nice little cam, she's held up well despite the rough use, I'd like to get another one soon so that I can do 2 camera shoots on some videos.

[@12101DyM]

Metric always beats American measurements. We civilized folk prefer to have a system which converts sizes (centimeter/meter) in consistent magnitudes. Metric: 10 milimeters in one centimeter 100 centimeters in one meter 1000 meters in one kilometer. The same numbers apply for weights and fluids. American: You guys don't even have anything smaller than inches, you just start making fractions. 12 inches in one foot 3 feet in one yard 1760 yards in a mile The weights and fluids are also all over the place.

[@xxRamD3yruxx]

Most of us (American car guys) have them memorized quite well and cubic inches measure displacement more precisely than liters, although that's a different topic.

[@12101DyM]

xxRamD3yruxx Metric is more accurate because metric measurements can be smaller than American standard. Milimeters, micrometers, nanometers

[@xxRamD3yruxx]

ChrisHallett83 because when you say a 350 chevy is 5.7 liters you've undersized the engine by 35cc. I was not comparing cc to ci, but more of liter to ci. cc is even more acurate than ci although that's a large number to stick to the side of the car.

[@xxRamD3yruxx]

Dylan McElveen milimeters are close 32ths anything smaller would be moving into scientific zone meaning: go metric, because science is in metric

[@Belicose777]

Civilized is the man that identified and complimented those that are "past the stone ages" and use metric even though he's from a place that uses American measurements. Not the one that blatantly insults an entire nation of people that do, as you have now.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MrTDM09 I'm glad I'm able to help with your automotive career, the world could use a few more good technicians in my opinion. Thanks for the comment and good luck with the K series, sounds like fun.

[@ericthecarguy]

@robertbaxley A tap is designed to MAKE threads, you don't want to do that in this application so you use what is called a 'thread chaser' which is for CLEANING threads and won't alter the existing threads. I do what I can to try and keep up with comments but it's getting more difficult, my priority is to the website and my forum so I always go there first to answer questions if that helps you.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ChowZeb Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@graffie Lets put it this way, 'grease' copper or otherwise on the threads WILL effect the torque and the reading. Second if they don't do that at the factory (which they don't) you shouldn't do it either.

[@ericthecarguy]

@branco445 If you just worked on it and now you have a noise the best course of action is to go back and recheck your work including the timing belt tension.

[@ericthecarguy]

@915Mustang Your right I didn't and I'm not saying that isn't a good idea but I've done it this way for years without any problems. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@PUREAAMERICAN Cool I didn't know they had the angle built in. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MYDRAGGIN84 Not really normal, if it's a Canadian model then the headlights are designed to come on when the ignition is put in the ON position. That should have nothing to do with the starting circuit however, perform the check that I recommend and see what you find.

[@ericthecarguy]

@HondaGRST You can use that sequence but the important thing is to start in the center and work outward, not at the edges. I like to use OE parts whenever possible but I haven't had problems using the aftermarket gaskets that I've used so far, the important thing is the treatment of the head and the block (cleaning them properly) as well as the correct torque and sequence when installing the head.

[@ericthecarguy]

@techgood I'm glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@loco0351 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Patrick1776Henry Yea, fastener size is based on thread pitch and the diameter of the fastener itself NOT the head size so keep that in mind. Ex. if the bolt size is 10mm x 1.25, the diameter of the fastener is 10mm, the head size may be 14mm. This is actually an excellent question.

[@mesheeplaisance1759]

I have a Chevy Impala 2003 had a macanic change intake gasket got the car back it runs hot I've changed radiator, thermostat,fan, I have to bleed the air out the lines everyday. someone said the macanic may have not tourped it right would that cause air to get in the line every day

[@ericthecarguy]

@6speeddakota I don't recall using a 'degree wheel' for setting points but perhaps for dialing in a cam. It's been a while since I watched this if I said degree wheel I take it back, your terminology is more correct.

[@ericthecarguy]

@branco445 If I'm honest I don't have a 'magic bullet' for you on this one, go back and check your work and make sure everything is installed and connected correctly, also make sure you put it back in time properly.

[@ericthecarguy]

@X2N18 The rule is to try and use the wrench that has the spec you looking to achieve in the MIDDLE of it's range, if it's close to one end or the other of the effective range of the wrench try to find another wrench where the spec is closer to the middle of it's operating range.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Michiganborn1969 For torque wrenches I would not recommend Harbor Freight tools. I've also never 'torqued' any valve cover bolts so take that as you will. Good luck.

[@ericthecarguy]

@sparkscarz Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@costa83p I'm not saying OE is always the way to go but quality parts often make a big difference. You get what you pay for most times.

[@ericthecarguy]

@9b8 Torque procedures vary depending on application, I have seen some like you suggest, it's really up to the engineers as they put in the time to find out what works best and then write it into their service procedures.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ladabyturbo I don't think so, you don't want to use a grease that will dry up or put more pressure on the threads, oil works just fine.

[@ericthecarguy]

@fastvpbt1 Not really no, it's the smaller fasteners with small torque specs you have to watch out for as they can be tricky but the bigger fasteners like these usually aren't the problem if treated right.

[@ericthecarguy]

@chicks123 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ejsecco I've gotten a lot of different input on this one. On this particular engine however Honda actually says to lubricate the threads. I lubricate them so that I get a smooth transition to the torque value as any hiccups will give a false reading. Thanks for your input.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Internetpirate3 You are correct, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@gst69man Taps are designed to create threads not clean them. A thread chaser is designed just to clean and not alter the thread pattern. You can use a tap, it's better than nothing really but the ideal is to use a thread chaser. Yes, you will never stop buying tools doing this trust me.

[@ericthecarguy]

@motorztv Take care of your tools and they will take care of you. Thanks for the comment, good to see you motorztv!

[@ericthecarguy]

@bigtoy63 I believe I mentioned that, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@stopthechem Thank you, glad you liked it.

[@ericthecarguy]

@fordfan855 They also go by that name, now that you mention it that would have been good to put in the video, perhaps an annotation. Thanks for pointing that out.

[@ericthecarguy]

@philosifur1 In some cases you are correct but years ago I read an article about just reinstalling warped heads and re-torquing them to spec (aluminum heads that is). I've been doing this for years with great success. I'm not saying don't check them but as I said I've had quite a bit of success with this method. Thanks for the input.

[@ericthecarguy]

@mixwell1983 The issue I would have with that is that it might send the debris to the bottom of the hole, with a thread chaser there are cavities in the tool that capture any debris and will remove it from the hole.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MrMunono You may have to take it back apart as you may have installed the gasket wrong. Also you NEED to torque the head according to the service manual procedure if you want the repair to last.

[@ericthecarguy]

@LeathanEre Personally I LOVE those wrenches, I wasn't kidding when I said they are some of my favorite tools. I prefer the clicker type because of cost. You can set up the digital type to beep when the specific torque is reached which may be a better indication since you sometimes hear that "ping" when you tighten some fasteners that can mask the "click" that you are looking for with a clicker type. Thanks for the great question and comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@letxen3 No they don't. Don't install washers where there was none as this will effect their torque value. Make sure they are not stretch bolts, if they are then you will have to install new ones as you are not suppose to reuse them.

[@ericthecarguy]

@rleon1991 Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@JDMnubi I usually do some from under the car and the others I use a 1/4" socket and ratchet. It's a lot easier after you remove the thermostat housing and the bracket under the intake.

[@ericthecarguy]

@TheIVAN6683 It could be any one of 100 things, go back and check your work, make sure everything is plugged in correctly and that the engine is in time.

[@ericthecarguy]

@finalman82 Excellent suggestions, thanks for your comment, you should make that video as I'm not familiar with the term "breaking".

[@ericthecarguy]

@NETWizzJbirk I've used a torque stick myself and have been happy with the result but I've also made a video on torquing wheels for the very reasons you mention. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@TeDuaMalakie Good suggestion and I know it would work. The reason I wouldn't do it is because I'm broke and don't want to waste my gas on cleaning stuff. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@mickeygovender In my experience it's not the valve seals that cause oil burning but the piston rings, you might want to do a leak down test to see what kind of shape the bottom end is in, I think you may find the rings are leaking more than you think, esp on cylinder 1 according to your posted readings.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MYDRAGGIN84 Make sure the connections are good. Try seeing if you have 12V at the solenoid wire when you turn the key to crank, if you don't you might want to look to the ignition switch and the wiring. You also need to make sure the connections of the battery cables on both ends are good.

[@ericthecarguy]

@sweetlikeADAM I don't think so but it's not a big deal if you do, just keep them in order, the caps are numbered and the direction is noted in the casting where they go back into place.

[@ericthecarguy]

@bunning63 I'm glad you enjoyed the video, I so often get comments on things that I missed or things that people disagreed on it's nice to get a comment like this one thanks very much.

[@ericthecarguy]

@testbooster I can answer your question right now by saying buy the complete set, the truth is that you don't know what your going to run into on a given day so you need a complete set of tools especially hand tools. Save your money and buy the entire set as it is an investment in your future an important one at that.

[@ericthecarguy]

@thepackman111 You loosen the fasteners in the reverse pattern that you torque them. EVERY cylinder head should be torqued to spec when doing this work.

[@ericthecarguy]

@flashdkr In your case you need to make sure the block and the head are OK as your problem may not be the gasket but a problem with the head or block, a machine shop should be able to help you with that.

[@ericthecarguy]

@qaz3000 That is referred to as a 'beam' type and I've been told they are actually more accurate than the clicker style. I used one for years before I bought my wrenches and never had a problem.

[@ericthecarguy]

@TheChero6 They are worth every penny, I can vouch for that. At least for me the Snap-on truck didn't have the capability to calibrate the wrenches, he would send them off and give them back when they were done. While doing some research for this video online I found some of the tools they use in calibration, pretty cool really. Thanks for your comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@BoilerDan8787 You don't want too much oil in the holes or oil to pool in the holes as it will create a situation that could lead to hydrostatic lock, the small amount of oil on the threads will not cause this and allow for a more accurate torque setting.

[@ericthecarguy]

@josiqvideos09 Probably to gain the proper stretch on the fasteners, I'm sure there is a good reason and the procedure should be followed to the letter in my opinion.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ice7771 Defiantly use engine oil. Good luck and thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@SephirothFF1 Your welcome, thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@foxdmulder I'm told it is best to have them inspected annually with regular use. Great question BTW.

[@ericthecarguy]

@KayC2SLO Engine oil will work just fine, I just happened to have a little left over transmission fluid that I used on these.

[@ericthecarguy]

@SWD2263 I never thought of that but it seems like it would be a good indicator. Thanks for the comment, really great info.

[@ericthecarguy]

@justhes Thanks for stopping by and the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@EricWaterTruck I would say that falls under "Stuff Happens". Sometimes it works out but when it's on camera well..... Way cheeper to do a head gasket than swap the engine BTW.

[@ericthecarguy]

@nightmathzombieethan Your killing me, but I like it. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ratrace2p51 I don't have one that's why I didn't use it but thanks for your comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@fastvpbt1 Honestly that depends on what's causing it, for starters make sure you are using the correct oil called for by the manufacturer. If you have noisy lifters I don't recommend using synthetic oil either as that can make it worse.

[@ericthecarguy]

@coldcash12345 You would work that in pretty much the same way as I did here, the best scenario is to start with the center bearing and work your way outward. Run them down till they are snug and tighten them to torque in stages. Know that torque on rod and crank bearings is critical so be sure to get it right.

[@ericthecarguy]

@diorije I've been told not to do it but I've done it when I needed to since I don't have a set of thread chasers. I would not say that they are interchangeable however since they are 2 very different tools.

[@ericthecarguy]

@fmaytorena1 The videos I produced on what comes into the shop so it's hard to fill such requests but in your case I would remove the head and see if I can get a vice grip or something on what's left of the bolt and twist it out. If you can't gain purchase then you may have to drill it out or use and 'easy out' to extract the remains. Good luck.

[@ericthecarguy]

@praskieva Thanks for the great comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@cooljestin1 I've seen them break in the past, they do turn out easy after they break however so at least there's that. Thanks for the comment.

[@chris]

Very good tutorial, especially covering handling and storing torque wrenches!

[@KillColdBlood]

I appreciate your videos Eric. As a do-it-yourself kinda guy, I am prepping for my first custom Engine build based on a 460 Big Block Ford. It's great to have tips and re-torquing techniques like this when I need them regardless of make/model. Thank you!

[@ericthecarguy]

@archer435 Your comments and input are appreciated and for the most part I agree, if I were assembling the Mona Lisa of engines I would treat it as such but in this particular case it was a used car that was damaged by a previous repair, the client was looking to turn the car around to prevent further loss of profit. There is something to be considered as well with a job like this and that is that "time is money", time saved is money saved.

[@alexshatner3907]

You should work for NASA

[@ericthecarguy]

@jwed6 Glad you like them, thanks for watching.

[@DougPattersonII]

Eric, you've helped me countless times, saved me thousands of dollars, uncalualble hours, painful headaches and fits of rage. I pass all of this information to my boys, get them greasy and use the saved money on fun stuff for us! Thanks

[@yadpwns]

Good morning Eric , I'd like to start by saying thank you for taking your time to make these videos. This is really good material for many of us that have a different profession but love working a cars. I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx that comes equipped with a KA24DE 2.4L DOHC motor that comes with 155 hp stock. I turboed this engine and upped the horsepower to about 310 hp. Now I've come across the limit for the stock internals. I bought a spare block that I plan to build. It will be the first

[@ericthecarguy]

@WhammyMechanics I think your neglecting the torsional forces in the metal and the 'slop' at the connections that will effect the reading, granted this may be minimal but they are a factor to be considered.

[@ericthecarguy]

@jr10385 I'm not sure what your asking as you seem to have the specs, follow the steps and you should be fine especially if you have a degree wheel.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MrJuvidj It's kind of a long shot but you might try a helicoil. Good luck.

[@ericthecarguy]

@bent1963 I like the sound of that. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@davidzzz94 Usually from underneath, remove the bracket that holds the intake up in the back and it will be easier.

[@ericthecarguy]

@iceJM2007 Thank you, I appreciate the comment.

[@mukusman]

Hey Eric, first of all, very grateful for you taking the time and effort to educate all of us. secondly i have given my car in to a very well known workshop for a complete engine overhaul and after watching your video I'm concerned about the torquing of the bolts on the head, not sure if they use tools similar to yours anyways, very informative and I'm going to suggest they follow your method, I'm subscribed and will be tuned in for more. Thank you once again.

[@ericthecarguy]

@ad356 I'm not saying your wrong but if they aren't stretch bolts or 'torque to yield' it's really not necessary in my experience.

[@ericthecarguy]

@robh23a1 Sorry to be late to the party but thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@Yonnlopez I sure can help, watch the video Diagnosing an Overheat, that should get you started on finding that problem. Thanks for the comment.

[@ericthecarguy]

@MoneyMarcMes It's been some time since I bought tools from them but I believe they are still of great quality. The fact that I haven't bought any tools from them is actually testament to that.