How to upgrade your SPI receiver antenna 🎓

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[@AlbertKimTV]

🛒 Receiver Antenna 10 Pack - bit.ly/2Y8tPSx also at Amazon - amzn.to/2tlQQqf I will make a follow up video with some of the suggested changes in the comments. Thanks for all the suggestions!

[@ningrc8673]

Hi Albert ! I have a weird findings on this Crazybee F4 pro v2 board on the Mobula7. Ive found out that when I did a continuity test between the Antenna Pad and -ve terminal on the battery pad, they are actually connected with like 5ohm resistance! So, does it means it is useless to ground the shielding of the new antenna to the -ve terminal, since the antenna pad itself is connected to -ve terminal.

[@illpro2]

I moded my Mobula 7 like this and could fly almost double the distance.

[@tabdougherty8549]

I think you should have continued at least till telem lost to get any real measure of performance. However great idea and a Great video Love your work not trying to sound snippy just a little disappointed. Now, I gotta do my emax tiny thing. LOL!

[@stevemann6082]

any improvement is good and it encourages experimentation.

[@maadfisher]

Great idea! I think part of the reason your rssi is so low on the OSD even after the mod is because it needs some rssi offset to read the same as your transmitter. If you compare the rssi numbers from your transmitter and OSD they should be the same, if not you need to adjust the rssi offset in the cli. My Mobula6 had strangely low rssi on my OSD no matter how close I was, but on my tx it was over 100 so I adjusted the offset by 20 and now they match and I’m getting accurate rssi on my OSD.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Good to know. I didn't think the OSD reading would be off by that much.

[@DavidBarbarine]

Hello Albert, good video! I have been doing something similar to this on all my AIO boards and get the same results. Meaning, the RSSI numbers don't drastically change but I don't get the warnings and I can fly farther which to me makes it worth doing. Because of this, I save any broken Rx antenna and later use the wire for a future AIO board I may purchase. Also, on my mod I don't make the shielded length so long, I only pay attention to the un-shielded length an getting that portion just out of the canopy.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yeah, I made the antenna way too long!

[@raminatorrammer]

Thanks for this video. I’ve noticed that the rssi readings from my FrSky spi receivers never goes above 60 even when I’m 10 feet away from my radio. All of the ones I have give the exact same results. By comparison, my FlySky spi rssi will start at 99% when I’m close and will fluctuate (normally) as I fly. From my experience, the FlySky readings seem more accurate compared to FrSky and I get much better range from the AFHDS-2A protocol on the spi compared to FrSky spi.

[@JamesWilson-mz5xk]

On my E011 and Bwhoop boards I just scratch off the solder mask to expose the ground plane right next to the active element with an exacto or needle file. Not shure about that exact board but I'm pretty shure you can find alittle ground goodness within a few mm of that antenna. Just have to look real close and follow the traces. I also prefer to use those smaller antennas like those off an rsxr. Not much meat but way lighter.

[@RK-dp9fe]

If you put the multimeter in continuing you can probably find a closer ground pad. I am not sure how it effect the signal but just a thought.

[@trevorimpulsebuyguy6398]

This is what I'm talking about! I love nerdy, upgrades that anyone that is descent at soldering can do. A lot of drone channels don't get that we love videos like this. A video that is cheap to do with nice benefits. Well done!

[@FlyerTuck]

Man, your on to something though... They should be able to come up with a massive fix for those little receivers easy as pie it would seem...

[@andywakelin1380]

Thanks, it looks like a worthwhile mod. Shame you couldn't be bothered to test it to it's limit.

[@shatterpointgames]

Yeah I thought the same thing

[@thezilla2824]

Me too

[@WildCaptures]

This antenna mod and use your Jumper T8SG at 150mw with 6db antenna 😊

[@AlbertKimTV]

That ought to beat crossfire! LOL!

[@MCsCreations]

Awesome job, Albert! Thanks! 😃 Yeah, anything more is great in those cases! 😃

[@MG-ht2cy]

Perfect, I was desperately looking for such a video yesterday :) My Mobula 6 arrived here 3 days ago and the SPI reception is cruel. Without jokes my Eachine H8 mini comes much further with toy remote control. The frame is also bent and 2 engines rattle, well Banggood complaint video is already online ;)

[@anthonyclark7290]

You need to keep the ground termination very short, with the length of wire you have would be transforming the impedance so the outer of the coax is no longer ground. My 2 euro cents worth :) You could connect to a supply rail if there is 1 nearby.

[@andy_bar]

Tony Clark supply rail?

[@anthonyclark7290]

@@andy_bar 3.3 or 5V rail, vbatt etc. Via a small ceramic cap would make it safer.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yeah, I'm sure this can be improved... I'll look into this.

[@tripleheart2970]

I know this is an old thread, and maybe this is a stupid question, but even if there were a ground pad by the antenna, there would be a trace on the circuit board going from the ground pad back to the battery pad, so I don't see why that is any different than running a wire to the battery pad. In my opinion, Albert's wire should make no difference, but please correct me if I am wrong.

[@boogiefpv1982]

Thanks for that vlog!! I always wanted 2 do that, now I've made up my mind! I'm going foward with the upgrade 😆! Happy flying🤙

[@BryonGaskin]

For the antennas in the link, they come with the ipex connector on the end; do you cut the connector off or remove it in some other fashion?

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yes, I cut off the connector. You can see how it looks at about 45 seconds in the video. If this makes no sense to you, I recommend you don't do this upgrade as you'll probably end up breaking something.

[@BryonGaskin]

@@AlbertKimTV Thanks. In your follow-up video It was much more clear (at least for me) what you did.

[@MikeHarrisFPV]

The improvement is not worth the effort for the end user . Better off putting an xm+ on it . BUT the manufacturers should take note of this and put the spi recivers together like this in future as you have proved there is some improvement there and it's not really going to cost them any more for another 4 inches of wire .

[@AlbertKimTV]

I wanted to try this because the space was limited in the build I put this in. So there are some good use cases for this.

[@quadfather504fpv9]

I've done that before on a micro receiver and it worked pretty good

[@rbmwiv]

Great video. I’ll be doing that to my boards with that style antenna. Luckily I have a baggie with a few in it. I never heard lost telemetry with the new setup. Definitely worth the few minutes it will take to do that. Thanks.

[@jdd53]

A minor yet worthwhile upgrade that got rid of the warnings. I’d call it a success.

[@archer4922]

Great vid Al. I’ve broken a few of these antennas and can’t fly perfectly good whoops bc of it. I’ve never really sat down to measure and resolder a wire back onto it tho. Gonna try now

[@kydawg1684]

Nice improvement.....I need to try a couple as well.

[@anton005]

The shielded part should not be random length, it should be a multiple of 1/4 wavelength of your frequency. So multiple of 30.6 or so mm for 2.4. GHz.

[@JanRispens]

This mod works great! My test: 2 Eachine Twigs 1 modded with lollipop FPV & longer/shielded antenna. With this one I can fly around a Dutch house (bricks, insulation with foil etc., my Wifi doesn't even get through this). The other one crashed and videofeed disappeared. Going to modify that one too!

[@johnmichaelcabusora4097]

You're a problem solver! thank you very much 😊

[@AlbertKimTV]

You're welcome!

[@ripperfpv9880]

Fantastic job as usual Albert you make myRC experience easier 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼✅

[@ivanradfpv.4823]

Nice work! I'm doing the same thing since the E011 silverware day's and beecore 😁 finally someone understands my some sort theory .

[@PJR4888]

Looks like the video got worse though.. could you fit a small capacitor in mix?

[@mkbfpv]

Awesome video, could have done this 6 months ago 😂😂😂 video saved for future reference 👍✌️

[@murillonoob]

Would the connection from to the shield to the battery ground work on a Diamond F4FS V1 too?

[@vtguy234]

Thanks for making this video! I've done something similar to my Mobula7HD, except I didn't know I should also wire it to ground. I'll try it out and see if it helps!

[@flipfpv4539]

Hi Albert just installed an Eachine crazybee F4 Pro V3 with SPI Frsky on a Trashcan frame...as you say terrible range (40m) with all the stuff blocking it i was just about to add xm+ but then tried one more flight with the stock antenna pulled straight out in front attached to the frame in beneath the camera in a straight line....WOW over 200metres+ no problem even behind trees thought you'd like to know love your channel Cheers Phil

[@AlbertKimTV]

You got the antenna out... cool!

[@alanhobbs4879]

Good to know, thanks a lot Albert

[@clay09]

A while back the antenna on my mobula7 fell off cause I was having to rebuild it often. I lost it before I could get home and solder it back on. At the time I had no idea the physical length was so critical. I grabbed a random wire cut it about how long I thought would be useful and had been using that for about a year. Didn't notice much if any difference in my range. Recently I had to trash the old f3 crazybee board and got a new f4 v3 to replace it. My range was horrible, I could get maybe 30 or 40 ft so I removed the antenna and put on my random wire, this time however it did not work well and my range was like 15ft. So I put back the antenna that came with the f4 board but soldered it much better than it came and the range issue was completely fixed, now it's working better than ever. Not sure why it was garbage out of the box but after resoldering it myself it worked like it was suppose to.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Interesting... that out of the box result sure is strange.

[@cpt_Ruckus]

Cheap, easy upgrade.. definately worth doing. Nice one Albert!

[@damienkrohse3374]

I think it was worth it, especially to be that far and not get the warning.

[@doubletapgaming1189]

That's a great idea thanks. I like that Primo frame....

[@jebrc]

Your rssi was only at 60 to start that seems odd to me ?

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yeah, that seems to vary a lot with these SPI receivers.

[@blam3329]

Nice video, Albert. I wonder if there might be alternative designs that will further improve it (like the “T”)...

[@AlbertKimTV]

Possibly...

[@LAFPV]

Is it possible to upgrade the receiver?. I have only FlySky transmitter here like FS-A8S. I bought nanohawkX a couple weeks ago but still i not tried yex

[@AlbertKimTV]

Depends on the board. Some will have pads for an external receiver, some will not.

[@MrTeeseeone]

Yo Albert, i do think you should got 100 RSSI with a proper setup, you sure your settings are as they should? I just cut a normal thick isolated wire 2x the length of the original one. So I solder a normal 62mm long wire on with no ground wire, not my rapidfire with a patch loses video before my RSSI drops too much.

[@AlbertKimTV]

What FC did you do this on?

[@MrTeeseeone]

@@AlbertKimTV Both the stock crazybee f3 that comes with mob7 and the crazybee f4 v2.

[@Darksagan]

Perfect timing. Are you flying the twig with the motors it came with or with the ones from your upgrade video?

[@AlbertKimTV]

The ones from the upgrade to the Gnarly 1203's

[@Prop-A]

Very good idea 👍 it does look like the range improoved a bit, but that could also be becouse, the active part of the antenna is more out in the open than the standard one.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yes, that was the whole purpose of this.... get the active part of the antenna away from the electronics

[@dan71559]

Excellent work AK! This is the solution I"ve been looking for.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Great to hear!

[@emrahksk83]

Hi Albert, how can i add on uz65 external sbus/IR1 receiver ? On banggood is the model with internal spi frsky receiver. İs it possible to add on this a external radiolink sbus receiver? If its not posssible than mabe on this version; external tbs crossfire or external dsm2 ? My radio is radiolink becouse of that i need sbus or ir1 slot to add on uz65 my receiver.

[@HomeDronen]

Thanks Albert for sharing!

[@josephbove7477]

Albert, you are totally awesome!!!!

[@bencline8877]

Albert, what would you recommend if my stock antenna does NOT have continuity to ground? Just skip the ground jumper? Thanks in advance

[@valden]

So. I should be able to use those existing wires on the twig to add an xm+ right? I have one sitting on the shelf, just need to add it! (moving the parts to the Kabab tp3 and figure it needs a real receiver! Lol)

[@TopCrinkly68]

Definitely much better!!

[@el_mario_reus]

same issue here😊 i will make the surgery

[@PadiwanFPV]

Debating on This upgrade, or fs82 reciever (since I have one lying around) for better range on larva x flysky. I feel like the fs82 might not make a difference, and I’d rather take the easy route with this antenna. I’m getting about 80 yds before cutouts.

[@kevinm4225]

About to try this on my board. I have a problem with my rssi though. Any reason why it displays 0 rssi on my osd at all times? It flies and stuff but its always at zero. I haven't been able to find someone with the same issue

[@khoitran5735]

can i do the same with my meteor65 (BETAFPV F4 1S AIO Brushless Flight Controller With SPI Frsky FCC Rx)?

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yeah

[@khoitran5735]

@@AlbertKimTV my meteor65 often rxloss i will try this,thank a lot

[@foxys891]

Can i do this to an cetus pro?

[@Tk-di5vd]

I thought you wanted the ground as close to the signal as possible though. Was that a Bardwell statement? I don't remember.

[@Tk-di5vd]

Ohhh that's right Just has one signal pad huh

[@AlbertKimTV]

@Tim C I think that was the closest ground pad on the board. If there's one that's closer, let me know.

[@multirotormafia2281]

I just wish they'd get there shit together and put a real antanna on from the factory it's not toy grade anymore its hobby grade build it right !

[@Guridrones]

nice

[@auck1969]

What do I think, Albert? I think my soldering needs a lot of practice!

[@dronedoutrc5970]

Are you using a power play? Also I think the range is better. You did get further than the other.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yes, PowerPlay DVR review will be out soon.

[@dronedoutrc5970]

@@AlbertKimTV Nice. I knew the dvr video was different than usual.

[@brunoadriao1280]

Nice video. Would it work with a 2.4 T antenna?

[@AlbertKimTV]

Probably

[@jacobgraafland2522]

Does maybe the rigged in grounding wire also need to equal 31mm b4 terminating??

[@matrix12x]

That ground wire you added to the shield looks super long at 2.4GHz.

[@alextkd2003]

Super nice mod, I have a trashcan, this apply for me?? I fly always bnf 😅

[@AlbertKimTV]

Yes, this is essentially the same board.

[@alextkd2003]

@@AlbertKimTV thanks 😎

[@evekradiasi3223]

I not get long range

[@AlbertKimTV]

this isn't for long range.... just longer range than standard setup

[@evekradiasi3223]

Very short range Help me

[@gummyfpv6403]

I know this is probably an old request lol, is there a video showing how to do that to the Antenna? Kinda new to this hobby and want to try this, my mob6 keeps on "rxloss" on me.

[@AlbertKimTV]

If you're not able to figure out how to do this from what I have showed in this video, I would recommend you not attempt this mod. It's not for beginners.

[@Oxizee]

If it doesnt harm, just do it :)

[@RTKdarling]

I don't understand the ground. How is it the old antenna didn't need it but the new one does? I've watched it twice and it looks like you have soldered to the sheathing

[@briandoctor9330]

Simplified, an antenna transmits using the active element that is not grounded (the shielding on a coaxial wire). So, this means that the original antenna, with no shielding, transmits on the whole wire, in the worst possible spot that is right next to a big circuit board, and usually behind a canopy and other items like a camera, that can block a signal. Using a coaxial cable, just lets you move the active element of the antenna, to a much more ideal spot, away from other components and outside of the canopy, where the antenna has a clear path to transmit a clean donut shaped signal to your radio.

[@unything2696]

@@briandoctor9330 Hey Brian, quick question: I damaged my antennas. So I shortened them, leaving the active element exposed at the right lengt. But my antenna seems to be multiple layers, outside of course the shielding, then a thick metal mesh' layer, then some clear polymer, then a thin metal mesh core. How far do I need to cut down? I cut them as little as possible, so the active part is now partially thick metal, partially thin metal. Feels not ideal, but honestly the wire thickness shouldt impact the receiving of electromagnetical waves much, right?

[@RTKdarling]

@@briandoctor9330 So in other words: the antenna needs to be a particular length, so the grounded shielding effectively negates the wire up to the intended reception point. Thank you, this is illuminating.

[@briandoctor9330]

@@unything2696 I think you are thinking the outer plastic sheathing is the "shielding", when in fact the metal mesh layer is the real shielding. Repairing a damaged or chopped coaxial antenna requires cleanly cutting the end, and then measuring the correct new length of the active element tip, and at that measured distance, cut off the outer plastic sheathing, then cut off the metal mesh shield layer, leaving only the inner most thin wire core, and the clear polymer that surrounds the inner core. Just make sure you understand that the innermost thin metal core, and the clear plastic insulating the core, is the active element of the antenna, which is the part that should be a specific length.

[@unything2696]

@@briandoctor9330 That is the perfect answer to my question, thank you. So I will have to cut deeper to evenly expose the thinner inner core. Maybe I'll do some RSSI tests before and after and gain some range, but I alsp gained some knowledge, which is great.

[@mikesullivan5851]

Was this Frsky or FlySky

[@AlbertKimTV]

FrSky

[@ashliafpv4501]

Does this antenna apply only on frsky receiver?

[@AlbertKimTV]

Should work with others too.

[@protonus]

Hey Albert - thanks for making a video about this, I've been telling folks to do this for a while in the RedDevil and Trashcan groups, it makes a big difference. I found connecting shield doesn't help much, but going from 1/4 wavelength SPI antennas to 1/2 wavelength ones really helps, or even long 1/4 wave length ones like the one you showed. That said, the thing about the original antenna being the wrong length is a myth and a oft repeated misconception in our hobby. The whole 31.25mm is the right length thing is actually false. But rather than write a big post, just have a watch of this video, Pawel does a very good job of explaining it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpqloIWErtelhq8

[@mercedon7062]

Hi Albert, the antenna output on the Mobula6 seems to have the footprint of an U.FL IPEX Connector. I measured the footprint on the board to be 4x4mm (about 2mm from ground to ground) and the connector is about 3x3mm, that looks like a perfect fit :-).

[@AlbertKimTV]

That's the VTX antenna, not the receiver antenna!

[@mercedon7062]

Oh, I completely missed that. But ... wait, why has the VTX antenna the same length as the receiver antenna?? How? Why? That is strange.

[@MUHAMMADTHOHA1000]

better if shorter ground cable, find out closer ground on pcb

[@mercedon7062]

Hallo Albert, love your channel! I thought about replacing the simple wire by an actual antenna too. That your solution works at all is really funny, you got kinda lucky :-) let me explain. After the radiation has entered the coax cable, half of the current flows throu the center wire and the other half flows throu the ground wire (the coax shielding). To connect the coax properly, both currents should reach the rf-chip at the same time. Best would be to connect the center and the ground directly to the RF-Chip. In your case the ground current has to go along your wire and than along the DC ground to the chip, while the center (probably) connects very quickly to the RF-chip. From the video, I guess that the ground detour is about 1/4 to 1/2 of the wave length. It seems bad ;-) I'm sure that your ground-wire works as an antenna too and the combination seems to be working kinda ok. I would expect, that you get better reception in some directions, but worse in other directions. I cannot see that in the video, it seems fine to me. I'm amazed, that it works at all. Furthermore good luck!! ;-)

[@AlbertKimTV]

I wish there were a ground pad right there... any solution to fix this?

[@mercedon7062]

I guess we would have to identify the rf-chip and connect center and ground directly at this chip. For starters we need someone who identifies the rf-chip. (Its not me ;-) )

[@mistercohaagen]

Dude... ask Alex Greaves (IBCrazy) what would be best. He can at least officially sanction your technique here, or not. But if you have a data set of one that says it works, then that's a start anyway.

[@AlbertKimTV]

Well, I don't require anyone else permission to make the videos I want to make. I'm not making any claims here just experimenting. I'm sure there's probably a better way to do this. Maybe for a future video.

[@mistercohaagen]

@@AlbertKimTV Lol, yeah I didn't mean it like that homey. I mean he could tell you more about the pros and cons cause he's a subject matter expert, plus I'm sure he'd love to chime in cause this is one of those little annoyances that a lot of people now have direct contact with lately. Especially ever since people like you and Kabob have helped sell so many of these tiny AIO's to us. I thought it'd be a good idea for a quick collab video that might cost you an email or two, but what do I know.