How to Use a Diamond Core Drill - The Secret To Making Big Holes

[@nickdrury4931]

Couple of points from an ex diamond driller with 20 years under my belt. No1. No dust mask seen. Brick, concrete and blocks contain silica. This is rapidly become the next asbestos replacement killer. Not something you want in your lungs. No2. Use a dust vac or a water suppression kit. Failing that, wet the wall down with water before you start and regularly throughout the drilling process. Rinsing the dust out will reduce the drilling time. No3. Flushing with water will cool the diamond segments which will prevent them from being debraised from the barrel. No4. Segments that become detached whilst drilling, must be removed from the cutting face. If left in they will fetch the remaining segments off rendering the tool useless. Snapping the core out with a screwdriver will aid this. No5. Slow drilling can be sped up by hitting the tip of the segments to open up the diamonds again. Several good belts with a large file on each segment head should be enough. No6. Should the core get stuck in the barrel. Turn the drill so that the core can drop out. Gently tap the outside of the core barrel all the way around with a spanner. Keep rotating the barrel and the core will drop out eventually. Hitting the barrel to hard will resort in a distorted barrel and lead to further binding whilst drilling. No7. Once the core is through, rinse the brickwork down with clean water - this will prevent staining. No8. Allow wet slurry time to dry out. Trying to brush it up will only spread the mess further. It will brush up once dry. No9. Whilst working at height do not attempt freehand drilling. Hire a drilling rig which you bolt to the wall via a plastic plug and locking dowl pin - it’s much safer than being thrown off a ladder at height - trust me on that!…….

[@grahamnichols1416]

Glueing a small level to my drill was a game-changer for me.

[@stephenspiceley3082]

One little tip that I use to ensure you don't get plaster blow out on the inside is to use the core bit on the inside to just cut through that first half inch or so of plaster. Then move to the outside to cut the hole. The pilot hole will ensure that the two cuts line up perfectly, and as you have already cut through the plaster on the inside you don't get it blowing out as the core goes through. Sure, it does make a little dust on the inside but worth it to keep the plaster in one piece. 👍🏼

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks for sharing 😀

[@alemgas]

In your dreams mate

[@thechumpsbeendumped.7797]

@@alemgas What is in his dreams?

[@cuebj]

For pros, Makita do a dust extraction accessory for their diamond core drills - very expensive and heavy duty. As heavy duty DiYer, I do what you do

[@Nine-Signs]

@@cuebj Potential cheaper solution? Henry + bag. Henry likes to eat all things, and rolls down stairs well, and are still pretty cheap. Mines 25yrs old and for the last 7 has been sucking up everything from masses of brick dust to lose cold ashes around the fire. Remarkable machines, especially the older ones.

[@LeeJohanne]

Followed these instructions for my first ever core drill for a slightly larger vent for wood stove. Done exactly what it said on the tin. Hard work. Brick dust is immense. Mask, goggles, ear defenders. Hardest part was the start of the core drill wanting to bounce about but start on lowest speed of the sds drill without hammer. As you get more confidence increase speed gradually but have patience and take a breather. Keeping the drill level was difficult but I did it. Couldn’t have done it without the video and used the erbaur bits and £60 sds drill from Screwfix. Thanks for the video chief.

[@samansrs6287]

I really enjoyed the way you explained it. Smart and clean. Only for safety put on a mask too beside the safety glasses. For protecting of all that dust entering to your lungs. If you do this on daily basis it can lead to nasty lung diseases.

[@formicapple2]

You sir are a Godsend. Instructions clear and concise. That is a job I have dreaded but you have given me the confidence to do it myself. Many thanks.

[@jasonmcbride88]

Someone below mentioned it, kickback control, but didn’t quite get to the optimal solution. Left or Right there is always a drill-handle orientation that will let you catch the kickback, which is the only way the clutch will ever engage. For the hole here, rotate the whole drill clockwise 90, then release the handle and rotate that another 90 so it is pointing straight up. Now you can engage the drill with your right hand and the handle is such that kickback with be straight into your palm, allowing the clutch to trigger rather than having it rip away from your hand. Nice video!

[@Pelt101]

It’s a good idea to put a slight rise, (out to in) on the hole, not level when to be used for vapour exhaust. Any moisture left in the ducting when machine stops will drain to the outside of the wall.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Nice tip, not something I’ve ever done.

[@matthewsaunby9056]

Came here to say the same thing. Probably precautionary more than anything but it can’t hurt!

[@paulchatterton1]

Absolutely! Very important that condensation finds its way out and not in!

[@gaurasrspublishing]

But then if you're drilling through for something like a humidistat, the fan doesn't sit flush to the wall because the hole is on the wonk.

[@goldistocks609]

When I was drilling through some really dense comcrete using a 4.5” bit, it helped a lot to chisel away the inside core every inch or so

[@NeilFirbank-en1yd]

If you are drilling through something a bit tougher and maybe using a long extension, try drilling 4 holes at the top, bottom, left and right outer parts of the hole you are trying to cut. This makes the core bit easier to drill through the wall as it hasn’t got as much friction due to the holes. I’ve done this many times, it makes it a lot quicker and easier particularly if you are in a tight spot. Try it out.

[@johnashton4086]

I can tell you from experience that the core bit / drive shaft you are using will bind together after heavy use. It is then virtually impossible to separate the shaft from the bit and that means you cannot change bits thereafter. Before use I would recommend making and breaking the shaft/bit joint and also using copper grease or similar to make subsequent release of the joint more likely. I was drilling foundation wall that consisted of heavy-duty concrete blocks laid on their sides. The second point I would make is that the stub shaft being used will not get you through such long traverses. Eastablish whether you need a shaft extension before committing to task as separate purchase of long shaft is expensive. If these extensions binds and won’t release you will have an even greater problem to solve. I eventually resorted to stitch drilling after first creating the first short penetration using diamond core. That worked well and was faster but not a neat finish on the exit side of the hole.

[@jamesduffy5019]

Top tips as usual, and I love how clean your safety goggles always are! Look forward to the renovations👍

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks. Those are new ones sent to me from Unilite. Great glasses so far.

[@bobbymac2911]

@@TheDIYGuy1 Now do hearing protection and a dust mask. Wear all your PPE and set a good example

[@martinw245]

You can avoid any brake out on the inside by drilling a little that side first.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

That’s certainly another option 👍

[@martinkiely3147]

Great video i am drilling through a wall this week for extractor fan great tip drill out pilot hole first from inside and then drill from outside due to dust 👍👏

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad it was a help

[@eliadbu]

spraying water occasionally, helps with dust and provide some cooling to the the core drill.

[@TomBlakey-we8rf]

I've saved a few quid having a go myself, which I didn't really have the confidence to do before watching videos like this. Nice one DIY guy, keep them coming!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad I could help! Thanks!

[@curentarul]

Good explanation! A little advice: in the future, try to move the handle in 90 degrees to right or left. In case of stuck or something you will control the drill much easier Good luck!

[@samirguesmia4378]

Great video! How would you go about enlarging an existing hole to fit a cooker hood that needs a bigger hole?

[@tm2204]

Great tip about running the pilot bit all the way through and core drilling back in from the outside. Wish I had thought of that doing all my room vents 🤣🤣

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad to help!

[@Macron87]

After drilling your 8mm pilot, can you put the extra long 8mm but into the core drill? Looks like it could act as a really good end-to-end guide.

[@oluwordaj1729]

Experience is the best teacher You're great

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad to have helped. Thanks

[@chrisjinks5414]

may as well get a condensing dryer as in a couple years we will see another video of you bricking it back up.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

I’ve an old boiler flue hole to brick up if it’s something you want to see 😂

[@PhasesOfIronCarbon]

Would you recommend going from outside then doing the inner wall from inside out over if you had pipes and cables nearby?

[@elpresidente8730]

I have the same set of Erbauer drills. It is a bargain buy. If you purchase the 3 core drills and the mandrels separately it would cost double what you pay for this and you wouldn't even get the case. I have a 117 core to drill tomorrow in the loft. fortunately it's a double skin of breeze block with render on the out side so it won't take long. I drill the outside render first then drill the last inch from the inside to avoid blowout.

[@Slidinr32gtst]

I cut and drill concrete for a living and I’ve broken my wrist with a 8” bit lol but was also using a hilti hand drill

[@assili_abdellah]

Thank soo much freind, i appreciate a lot your advices, i lear lot of things from you , thank again , good luck for futur videos

[@dg2076]

Always use the correct core drill with a clutch so save broken arms and wrists,i would not recommend use a standard drill for this type of job !

[@michaelshaw8656]

It was a clutched drill 👍

[@prawnk1ng]

Exactly. The clue is in the name. Core drill for a core bit. SDS could land you a trip to A&E

[@ddfann]

I uses an SDS to core drill all the time, it has a clutch and has never kicked back at me.

[@sydsnott5042]

Ok that's acceptable what you've stated But I did just that job some years back with a standard hammer drill. Yes I got got some slight kickback but I got the job done without any broken bones or bruises. Yes I took my time.

[@darrenpaulgreen]

Young guy I was working with drilled a core hole using a standard SDS. Drill kicked back and he tore his rotator cuff in his shoulder. A month off work and it’s at least 5 years ago now and never been right since 😖. Core drill for a core drill bit every time.

[@cuebj]

Corbett? Need Barker, too. Good tips, which we used a few years ago. For the more casual DiYer, this is a case where hiring the gear makes sense as you might just do it once. The Erbauer kit is pretty good, even for pro tradespeople who don't do this all the time. If it's a tiled wall, use a tile grinder to remove tiles with about 5mm extra radius and cut hole a few inches deep from the tile side first, then cut from the outside. The pilot hole ensures the two holes meet up. You might have to hack insulation from the cavity as the bit gets clogged

[@TheDIYGuy1]

👍 cheers and thanks for sharing

[@lansdorf]

Before i screw the diamond core to the arbour i put some 20mm electrical lock nuts on the arbour that way the core cutter can never wind up tight on the arbour thread and easy to remove.

[@JohnSmith-ws7fq]

Great video, but may I suggest in the recommendation for a drill that you specifically mention a clutch. If somebody tried without one, they might end up with an unpleasant experience.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

👍

[@sprint955st]

Your presentation skills are getting better and better. Much more natural these days. Good vid, ta.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Much appreciated!👍

[@Lanser1964]

to reduce the blow out on the inside even more I usually run the coredrill in 5-10mm before going outside

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@hdarmawan]

Do you have an idea on how to drill onto uneven surfaces? For example: rocks on the beach area? The goal is to build and plant a metal post onto it.

[@TuhinBhuiyanWebDeveloper]

What is a recommended hand drill machine? I am asking about lowest watt machine required for a hole saw bit to drilling in properly?

[@ibrahimeryuruk4728]

Thank you very much Your videos is very good Everything is well explained Please do more videos like this 👍

[@Nine-Signs]

Oh how I wish I had one of these, instead it was a bolster and hammer job after drilling a grid of holes then mortar in after. The fun.

[@danieldallasdd3395]

Hey man. Thanks for the video. Send link for the core bit set you've got there. Searched amazon but no results. Thank you.

[@DjGiluk]

Great video, I did an extractor fan recently using these bits 👍🏻

[@JamesSmith-gk8sz]

Secondary pro tip if dust/debris mitigation is a concern. Bosch (and other tools brands) makes a suction cup attachment to the shop vac that, when the vacuum is activated, suctions it to the wall. You put your drill or core but through the center of the bristle attachment and all dust and debris get sucked out as you go. Saves a huge mess and minutes of clean up afterwards. This also saves you from wearing a respirator, which you should be for any masonry drilling application. Silica and mortar dust is incredibly harmful to human lungs.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

👍

[@rfrancislau]

Informative video. Wondering if this would work with the Hilti TE 50-AVR.

[@boyo57]

Great advice, and great Norfolk accent......"wull done bore keep on a troshin" 👍

[@tomsanders8714]

Great video. One thing I'd point out in my case - even if it means some vertical ducting inside stay well clear of the DPC. My house sits on a plinth of some sort and if you hit that your hole stops there. Got lucky, but it was close!

[@Trucker-Belly]

DPC? Democratic Political Cheat?

[@cuebj]

Good point. I have exactly that: rectangular duct between wall and dryer, rectangular to round connector to duct in wall. Unexpected benefit is it's more flexible when I've changed position and brand of dryer - just shorten or lengthen the flat duct and change angle from dryer vent to wall vent

[@mohmedsirajkasadiya9367]

Very helpful video Thankiyou so much very appreciate your help.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lwandilebaliti2595]

Have you got a video where you make a Review on HP2071? 🤔 Would like to see how good it is.

[@dailytricks6161]

Great video! Thank bro, wish you good health and success always!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks a lot you too 👍

[@dailytricks6161]

@@TheDIYGuy1 have nice day! bro

[@superamario6464]

Brilliant tip on drilling from inside to out first!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad it was helpful!

[@melvis2017]

Great job and great video thanks for sharing with us this appreciations 🇩🇰🙏👍

[@kchaney56]

Brilliant pilot hole advice.

[@wdy0196]

Can you give any tips for enlagering a previous hole?

[@chowpey]

not sure if mentioned here, you should always have the angle of the hole pointing outwards even slightly so that any water drains out and not in!

[@wch4972]

Your new home? Congrats

[@czeital]

great video - any tips to stop core sticking to abour - tried copper grease already thanks

[@IAAITKEN]

Dust aside - if kick back is most likely going into the internal wall from cavity. Would it not make more sense at this point to drill inside outwards? Some does but avoids kickback and also blow out risk?

[@Cagstok]

Are drainage pipes cut level also? Or do you need to cut them at the same angle the pipes need to drain? Is that easier than it sounds?

[@42RHD]

I'm looking for an SDS drill that can drill big holes. The SDS drill you link to is actually the one I was thinking of getting but everyone says it's not going to be able to cope with core bits over about 20mm and I need a corded drill for anything over this. I notice you use a corded drill in this video, what's my best bet for site and domestic work as I don't really want to have to buy two for the different power ratings? Cheers.

[@alistairwheeler1118]

You mentioned a technique for enlarging holes. Any advice?

[@jimkurk5575]

how well does this work in fiberglass reinforced concrete and what happens if you run into rebar?

[@johanlind3002]

Perfect video! In Sweden we often use 125mm vent ducts. What dimension do you recommend for the hole?

[@davidkay4923]

My OCD loves the brand new core drill, nice and clean. Dont really want to use it and chip the paint off and get it dirty😂

[@TheDIYGuy1]

😂

[@AccountantDoesDIY]

Great video. I’m a bit wary of my SDS these days after almost snapping my wrist recently. I have the Titan beast from Screwfix. Was drilling some 18mm holes into a concrete pad for some rebar to go up the middle of brick piers I was DIYing. The drill bit suddenly got stuck about 250mm in and almost ripped my arm off. Darn scarey. Then spent about 40mins trying to get the bit out again :-(

[@AccountantDoesDIY]

I should add - I know I should have set the rebar in the concrete when I actually laid the foundation pad but I’m only a novice and only realised after the fact that rebar up the middle was needed…

[@TheDIYGuy1]

It’s certainly something to be aware of. Thanks for sharing

[@neilballam8701]

I've got that drill, an absolute monster. Ate thru my 1920's red brick to do this job. Took a lot longer than 10min tho. 😂

[@paolocoletti3424]

You would normally notice when the bit was starting to jamb. Never continue drilling as at some point it could bind and give you a serious injury. Keep the speed high and pull out to clear the debris at regular intervals. (Although on vertically drills this is difficult) Don't ever just try and push through a binding bit, It's blooming lethal! Stay safe

[@MrDigga53]

Thats why they provide a side bar handle that lots of people don't use! and a core bit should be driven by a specific drill unit that is designed for that purpose.

[@michaelshaw8656]

As always a great informative video 👍🙏

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Cheers bud 😀

[@NeoFreshair]

If you go up on the ladder, make sure someone holding the ladder for you, and even changing turns! You can get tired quickly higher on the ground holding heavy drill and it will feel more heavier!

[@edwinbruckner4752]

I did mine on a ever so slight angle, so that in case of some heavy rain, water has zero chance of getting in. As water does not flow upwards..

[@cerial0411]

Once your pilot hole is drilled bit of painters tape on the inside and Gorilla tape on the exterior brick really helps lessen blow out or cracks.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

👍

[@alexgold8687]

Would you suggest drilling from both sides of the wall to avoid any break out?

[@TheDIYGuy1]

You could but it’s not really necessary

[@SSchithFoo]

Nice! I wonder if these can drill through sandstone and granite rock.

[@glennpowell3444]

Believe it not if a powerfull drill bit stops suddenly on a job like this depending how you are holding the drill it can snap a wrist or finger.I know.Once youve broken the cavity into thermalite blockwork no problem but if you hit brickwork assuming your going from inside just go real gentle as it starts to bite the brick.If you put too much on it the bit will stop and the drill power rotate allarmingly around it with alot of torque particularly a corded one.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Yeah your right!

[@MrDigga53]

And thats another reason you actually use that side handle and not bin it like many do !

[@jacbisgood2221]

Another tip. Be prepared for polyethylene insulation to snow out from the core hole. I've done a hundred of these in the past and i always have a bag or bit of rockwool to hand to stuff in the cavity if i think it has insulation.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Good tip

[@ErossaanBooming]

mmmm you made it look so easy. I bet I will spend an hours doing that. what was the detector name?

[@philipwilliams8114]

Great tip on the pilot drill

[@MortenMadsen1982]

Isn't it a better idea to drill at a very slight downward angle, so water will drain to the outside?

[@askino30]

Hi.. You didn't post the link for the wire and pipes electronic detector pls

[@michaelplays2449]

Great video !!!!! Looking forward tothe new series .........thanks 😊😊😊😊😊

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks. Soon, I’m working on the final edit for episode 1 😀

[@streaky81]

I've been prevaricating on this one for my cooker hood for months, I'm sure I'll brave up enough to do it eventually - my complexity is timber framed house so i got moisture barrier to deal with also; though I also have only one layer of brick to deal with so swings and roundabouts.

[@cuebj]

Hole saw or pad saw for the timber and plasterboard. The single thickness brick could be done with lots of holes using 6mm or 8mm SDS bit; then tap with small cold chisel. If you do hire or borrow diamond core gear, practice on a paving slab or block. Get very comfortable and solid in your stance for holding the tool and moving it through a position that mimics the hole you want to make - can you hold it without dropping from your line?

[@micro4012]

Great video as always, what would be great to see is what sealants to use for what’s going in the hole!

[@gregarrell6132]

Some dust control and lung protection is essential. Vacuum and P2 respirator.

[@Son_of_Aragorn]

Is this the right saw bit to cut through stucco, too?

[@amberengel5558]

I think that drilling the hole ahead of time would make it wobble more due to the fact that the pilot bit When drilled in the concrete creates a bigger hole

[@mykotliazad]

first time here .very informative will be looking out for more of your videos.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Awesome, thank you!

[@Retrobution]

i have this exact set, and did this to drill a new hole for the sink waste, the trouble is though is that the core bit is welded to the connector, literally tried everything even putting it in a vice and putting a bar through to try to unscrew it and its not budging at all. whats the best way to take the core bit off the adapter when it wont budge? great videos as always i always pop back to check on your videos when doing a bit of diy. like a little refresher course haha

[@karlmason3]

use the drift in the hole in adapter and smack it with a hammer whilst holding the flats on the core bit with a spanner .

[@darrylclarke41]

Two spanners on and stamp that's my method. And wrap ptfe on the thread before putting them together stops it's binding together

[@MrDigga53]

Put it in the freezer for a couple of hours then try...or get some heat on the adaptor if you have a gas torch

[@Kidglove57]

Excellent presentation as always!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad you like the video 👍

[@cuebj]

That DeWalt looks new. Wonder how it lasts. 8 to ten years ago, they'd get 5-star reviews and I was happy with mine. About to replace it a few months ago, 1-star reviews from scores of folk who had done the same but had to return and replace after one or two uses. Seems like corded DeWalt is not what it was. I got a Makita diamond core drill instead, not SDS. Wow! So much better engineered than the big yellow. The Erbauer bit kit is excellent (see my other comment)

[@TraceyAltoft]

i bought a dewalt core drill, absolutely hated it.went back to using makita core drill using gloves to stop back of D handle mould imprint on your palm, much better

[@markrainford1219]

Plug the pilot hole on the inside before you start. Every time you withdraw and re-insert the core bit, you will get a big cloud of dust forced into the room otherwise.

[@nikond90]

This is a very helpful video!

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Glad you think so!

[@deanwellerassociates]

Excellent video and edit. look forward to the renovation series.

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thanks. I’m working on it. Currently I’m working on the edit for episode 1

[@cyberry813]

I’m going with the Milwaukee core drill kit, it’s 4K but man, it’ll save the trouble and cost of going to the hospital for a snapped wrist or broken jaw.

[@alldensg88]

Any advice for an overscrewed bit that won’t unscrew??

[@yrrabel]

Might be a silly question but prefer to ask anyway. When you start the second stage at the block do you remove the 8mm bit once the core bit has found its path or do you leave in place?

[@fenixfp40]

Remove it, the first brick will guide it through to the second.

[@Surbitron9000]

Excellent video. Thank you.

[@maxamps45]

what happens if there's a rebar?

[@MegaLove85]

Beautiful job

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@antosavo3558]

The shank type is this SDS Max? Cannot believe it would be a SDS plus.

[@duncanseath745]

My sds drill (dewalt) clutch is not man enough for 4" core drill spend more time trying to get it to bite. I think I need a proper core drill.

[@HarveyJohnWillmott]

Lovely video mate

[@rainyroad87]

Can I drill from the inside? I can't reach the brick on the outside because it's at height. Thank you for your help 🙏

[@TheDIYGuy1]

Yes however the dust will be pretty awful

[@ElPalcoTigreHermano]

8:10 bro use the pivot hole to drill with the diamond core through the plaster/cast on both sides, once you start hitting the brick go outside if your prefer. But using the diamond core drill bit on both sides makes that damage almost non existent.

[@mugiwaraluffy9626]

Drill mode only, no hammer action - is it only specifically for this core bit u're using, or any type of core bits out there? my instructor teach me to use hammer drill function. But, i think that hammer mode will destroy the bits. So im confused 😅

[@vincentoluchukwu1486]

Where can I get the complete set of this diamond core bits and the drill set

[@kirembweabdulkareem3294]

You forgot the dust mask.but also a question do those bits differ, like for dry cutting and wet.applying water

[@tonytramonti5828]

The tried the `Ronnie core bit with no success, ended up borrowing the Tunnel boring machine they used in the channel tunnel for my hole.

[@thebrooklyngardenclub225]

Nice work, thankyou ..well done.