How to use Di2 EW-RS910 bar end junction with ANY handlebar

[@RobertAdairWorkshop]

Thank you for giving it to me straight and allowing me to be smart enough to know how to do it. Appreciate it.

[@maninpinkk]

This video is really helpful! I think the best clean outlook for normal handlebar is that drill the holes at the bottom of both side. Wiring the cable from Junction B -> Shifter 1 -> (go down and into the drilled hole -> Junction A(RS-910) -> (go out of the hole) -> Shifter 2. There will be only one cable at each drop, no need to install dummy cable. No external cable under the stem when wiring from shifter 1 to shifter 2 as well.

[@ridesofjapan]

I agree, that was was I did on my latest bike.

[@xexatubed]

Can you make a video explaining this???

[@willard10s]

Thanks, one suggestion. I use tennis racquet grip finishing tape. It is much like electrical tape, but doesn't goop up in the heat. Tennis string or accessory suppliers sell it in rolls. Cheers

[@briannystrom4767]

Instead of drilling a huge hole, use a round jeweler's file to create a short slot that will get the first wire out of the way while you insert the second plug into the 5mm hole.

[@WayneCouyon]

I just had my TCR upgraded from mech Ultegra to Di2. I had the choice between Shimano and Sram eTap, and chose Di2 because my wife's also using the turbo trainer and no way I will be changing between cassettes every time she also wants to jump on. Standing in my LBS, mulling over how should we route the cables, two things came to my mind: - I forgot that my FSA SL-K super duper handlebar is not pre-drilled, so we took the same approach as you demonstrated in this very helpful video - I should've gone with eTap and be done with the whole mess in 30 minutes.

[@RyanKonnad]

Thank you for this great video! I just tackled my first Di2 install and used this method to utilize the EW-RS910 in the bar end. I couldn't be more pleased with how it turned out. I went back and forth between the standard 3 port junction A and the EW-RS910 when ordering parts and I don't think I would have even attempted to tackle it if I hadn't stumbled upon this video, so thank you for sharing! It's such a nice, clean look!

[@ridesofjapan]

Ryan Konnad thanks mate! Always super happy to hear someone find my videos useful! :)

[@tomandsamuel]

How did you run the cable connecting both shifters? Externally along the bars and under the stem?

[@RyanKonnad]

@@tomandsamuel Yes, exactly. Sorry I can't remember the cable length I used since I did this about three years ago now, but I guess that's irrelevant because it would depend on your bar size anyway. I just used the best fitting cable length I could on the bottom side of the bar externally where it is mostly hidden by the bar tape. There is a couple of cm excess cable that just causes a slight "dip" in the cable under the stem, but that just disappears with the brake cables. Overall, it looks pretty clean and has worked great since I did it!

[@ЛёхаБукреев]

5:15 - what for "all the way up to the shifter"? Enough is to secure in 2-3 places. And it is smarter to plug the junction box BEFORE wrapping electrical tape

[@miamicyclist01]

Great straightforward video well produced and explained. Keep up the good work!

[@jensenhealey907efi]

I used config 1 with two cables running to each ST6870 shifter and only one cable running from the right shifter to the RS910. The frame I used, a Nashbar full carbon frame, was DI2 ready so all of the cables were run inside the frame. The handlebars I used were hollow carbon bars and I was able to run all of the shifter and RS910 cable inside the handle bars as well. Just under the handlebars and stem, I have a two port junction (JC200) so I don't have one continuous wire running from the shifter to the junction B. That way I can disconnect the cable at the JC200 if I need to remove my handlebars for any reason without having to disconnect a cable from a shifter or the junction B. The install worked out quite nicely.

[@ridesofjapan]

+Jensen Healey JC200 is a Good idea indeed! You can also use the inline wireless unit (EW-WU101) is you have that.

[@eddyhall]

Or the WU111

[@vincentmanuel83]

Nice job and great to see someone put out a high quality video on how to do this with a less expensive method. I had to opt the Y split cable as I have the 785 series shifters, but its refreshing to see this type of setup on a non-carbon bar. I can see this being popular with a lot of Ultegra series bike setups running more economical bars. Chapeau!

[@ridesofjapan]

Thanks for that kind comment! Yeah it's easy to think you have to connect everything as per the manual. Hope more people will find the video helpful.

[@BrentonCollas]

Hey Vincent, looking at doing this with my 785 shifters but planning reusing existing cables and long downtube e-tube cable in conjunction with another junction box SM-JC41 inside the handlebar. Yikes now I'm wondering if that little junction box will fit inside the handlebar... Any idea? q2: do you know if your oem battery was the newer BT-DN110 bluetooth compatible one, or the older uncompatible one? TIA

[@nicknjegac]

@@BrentonCollas Did you have any luck with this? I'm collecting parts for this myself for this right now

[@BrentonCollas]

@@nicknjegac Yes I had no dramas. Definitely worth it! As I understand how it works now, you can use whatever type of connector to join cables: its a bus system for sending signals around. I used an extra jc41 block and stuffed it up inside the end of the bar. Worked a treat. I didn't take any progress photos but here is the final setup. I recently splurged on a k-edge combo mount and a cygolite headband (to get that gopro mount light adaptor ) to get my expilion under the garmin. Looks pretty schmick! imgur.com/a/b3EgL0L

[@d9918]

Hi great video thanks heaps! Just one question, can you put the charging point on the opposite side? The reason is because I like to have a mirror on the right side of my handlebar. Thanks.

[@ridesofjapan]

David Lewis you can but on either side, as long as everything is connected it’s up to you. I have it on the left drop on my current bike btw.

[@TheDrDover]

Getting ready to go Di2. Thanks for the video. Plan is to do this with my setup.

[@ketjuariittaa]

3:31 i think that handlebar would be more duraple after drilling if there is 2x 5mm holes verticaly rather one big one. ♾⭕️

[@dalongye-lee9409]

Awesome video! With the cables going into the junction box, does it matter which cable goes into which hole on the junction box? Thanks!

[@ridesofjapan]

As said in the beginning, as long as you have all the necessary parts it dose not matter how or where you connect them as long as they are connected

[@lheureuxCycleur]

Thank you so much for that tutorial, Helped me quite a bit!

[@rgpeters]

Hello mate, thanks for all the good content all these years, I just found this as I'm installing the ST-R8050 shifters on my bike and couldn't for little life understand why or how that Y-cable + that wireless unit (EW-WU111) - I sum I can use the same connection you use on my R8050 shifters?

[@ridesofjapan]

Yes you can 👍

[@tomandsamuel]

I take you would then run the cables on the outside of the bars towards the stem and into the frame as per normal?

[@MrDiscoFever]

Thanks for this. Used on Giant Propel with a nice Pro vibe stem. Gets the cable exit in the right place. Did a few pics on here of it.

[@deanandrews7990]

Great video thanks! Question to all with regards to changing an existing 'standard' set up (with the EW90 junction box) to add in the D-Fly unit (EW-WU111) & the Bar end Junction (EW-RS910). Is the D-Fly best installed in the frame (under the battery) or can it be put in the bar? If so what would the cable configuration look like? When removing the existing Junction box (EW90) will I need to purchase a new and longer cable to reach the new junction box or are there 'extension cables' that can be purchased? Any tips on doing this without having to disassemble everything?

[@ridesofjapan]

Dean Andrews the “official” word from Shimano is that you shouldn’t have the d-fly inside the frame as it would weaken the signal. However loads of people still do it without issue. If you plan on having it connected wirelessly to you head unit, I would definitely place it in the handle bars. Regarding cables and the bar end junction, you most likely need to get a few new cables. You can probably use your current short cables that go from the ew90 to the shifters to go between the ew-rs910 junction and the nearest shifter, but I’m guessing they will be to short to reach between the shifters. If the cable from the frame has enough slack you could maybe connect that to one of the shifters. Otherwise you could also use the d-fly ew-wu111 to extend the cable from the frame and connect a short cable to either a shifter or directly to the bar end junction.

[@007lapanen]

Great video! Can you (or anybody) tell what clamp is connected to the vise?

[@ridesofjapan]

007lapanen cheers mate, The clamp is one of those saw guides for cutting steerer tubes, same type as this: amzn.to/38xfl2o

[@wokitlikeyoutalkit5619]

life saver explanation ! I'm building a 1x di2 drivetrain so i guess it ok not to connect any wires to one of the shifters?

[@ridesofjapan]

Correct (I personally connect both and configure the both lever to shift the rear derailleur, that way I can shift both up and down one-handed no matter which hand… probably not everyone finds that useful though.)

[@neermaldoolub8538]

What d you do with the cable that goes from lever to lever where it crosses the stem?

[@ea21411]

If you were to do config 1 what size cables would you get? On a small frame

[@georgefouskitakis6697]

Hi, thanks for the video. Suppose we use config #1. In case we want to connect a D-fly unit, can we just simply connect it to the 2nd free port of the junction A (EW-RS910) ? Which d-fly unit do you suggest? Thanks a lot, George.

[@ridesofjapan]

George Fouskitakis correct. Although I’ve never actually tried to connect it with one port unused 🤔 If that wouldn’t work you could just put it inline between the shifter and the junction though. Definitely get the inline d-fly unit.... I don’t really see any reason to get old one over it.

[@edinhocarvalho1340]

Hi… could i includ the ew-wu111 between junction A and shifter 1? Tks for the vídeo!

[@ridesofjapan]

You can put it anywhere you want.

[@patrickkatzmair]

I did this in my alloy bar without a problem, super easy! But now i have a Canyon with the Carbon Cockpit and i wanna do the same. Any special tips on how to drill holes in a carbon bar? Did you use the same drillers as with the alloy bar? Or did you use any special tools for carbon? Thanks!

[@ridesofjapan]

Patrick Katzmair I used the same method yes. But I did not drill at an angle, just straight trough the bars. Started with a smaller drill just as in the video, and didn’t not really put as much force on the drill. It’s much easier to drill in carbon.

[@patrickkatzmair]

Ok, thanks! 👍

@@patrickkatzmair before drilling (or cutting) carbon, wrap some masking tape or electrical tape to enable a smoother and clean drill

[@derekoskutis]

Hello! I was wondering if you can run the e-tube wiring from Junction B -> Right Shifter -> Left Shifter -> RS910 Junction A

[@ridesofjapan]

Yes no problem, that the same as config 1 I show in the beginning of the video (just with left and right swapped) * if you use the rim brake shifter lever remember to connect the cables in the upper two connectors (the bottom connector is only for sprinter shifters)

[@kpizzle1985]

Great video! I'm trying to do the same with R8050 shifters but the shifters won't work when connected to each other, only when directly connected to the junction. It's this a common issue?

[@ridesofjapan]

Kionne Potter make sure you don’t use the bottom connector for anything other than sprint shifters. Only the upper 2 ports can be used to connect to other parts (sti, junctions etc)

[@kpizzle1985]

Rides of Japan thanks so much for your reply, I wish that fact was better publicised! All working now 👍👍

[@ridesofjapan]

Kionne Potter excellent! I know. I should have included that info in the video as well. Those ports are not on the disc brake lever so I totally forgot about them.

[@WatchJapan]

I currently have the Y Link (EW-JC130) set up on an F12 connected to the down tube SW-RS910 Junction Box/Charging point but want to move it to an F14 that doesn't have the down tube charging point. As far as I understand from your video as long as I keep the connection from the rear and front derailleur and battery to the shifters, I can move the SW-RS910 to one of the bar ends using one of the connectors on one of the shifters and a short cable?

[@ridesofjapan]

Correct

[@ricric9521]

Did the same but drilled on the inner side of the handlebar. This lower section, 3-4" from the ends is VERY low stress area.

[@Tuslareb]

Thanks for the video! Really clever. One question: don’t you feel the di2 wires under the handlebar tape when riding in the drops?

[@ridesofjapan]

Not if you ride with reasonable thick tape

[@kennethstreet7868]

A piece of heatshrink where the wires pass through the bar would be wise or clean the hole up right.

[@rogerb4120]

Thanks...Great video Mine was "jury-rigged" when installed by the manufacturer.

[@mateuszporola7180]

Hi, do You think that its ok to use SW R671 with road group di2 base on EW-RS910, without change a base port to SM-EW90-B? Road bike with TT bar.

[@bimmer_ed]

Thanks a lot for this video. Planning to install the EW-RS910, but I have a question; My Di2 cable from the bracket to the old handlebar junction box is too short to be used with the new version. Is it possible to extent this cable so I don't need to replace it? (so without the hassle of removing the bottom bracket) Thanks.

[@ridesofjapan]

Edwin yes it’s possible, you can do it with the ew-jc200 2-port junction: amzn.to/2FtoBty Hope that helps!

[@sr8ted]

how did you connect the steer tube expander to the battery. That is super cool to move it out of the seatpost.

[@ridesofjapan]

+Mike Hone sorry, I’ve not manage to solve that part. Apologies if I somehow made it look like I had. PRO has a solution for exactly this. I think it’s limited to steerer tubes that are 180mm or longer though. Will look into it more, and if I can make a video about it.

[@mathambatrance]

My friend, and when the junction is on the frame like dogma f10?? Then the Y cable is the only way that can i do?

[@ridesofjapan]

you can still route the cable the same way without the y-cable. Junction > 1st shift lever > 2nd shift lever

[@ricric9521]

The wires only need to "touch" the system. So you can connect everything in any order or best in a chain from one component to the next.

[@xexatubed]

Thanks for sharing. I have a Syntace Racelite carbon and would like to know if you recommend making this same hole on it. Do you think it is too risky?

[@ridesofjapan]

Only you can decide if it too risky or not. You will void any warranty, and if the handlebar brakes and you crash you are probably out of luck. That said, I’ve done the exact same thing on carbon handlebars as well. But it’s all at your own risk

[@xexatubed]

@@ridesofjapan i got it. 5,5 cm from the bottom should be enough??

[@theray3131]

Does the battery charge work with this setup? Thanks.

[@ridesofjapan]

You charge the battery via the handlebar junction as normal.

[@DaviCupra]

Hi, where can i install the Shimano EW-WU111 D-Fly Wireless(ANT+ / Bluetooth)? For example between Junction A(EW-RS910) and sifter, will it work fine?

[@matthaigh5296]

Any suggestions for the neatest way to get the internal wires in the handlebars into the frame?

[@ridesofjapan]

Matt Haigh all depends on what frame/bar combination. Unless you have one of the new frames with internal routing through the headtube/stem I would route the di2 wire together with the brake wire/hose from the lever to the frame.

[@Cyclingforviews]

Thank you excellent video. Thought I would add had issue with inline

[@michaellee9287]

Great video. What size wires did you get?

[@ridesofjapan]

Michael Lee thanks! 1400mm from the frame junction to the handlebar junction, 350mm (I think) from the handlebar junction to the nearest shifter, than a 600mm (I think, could be 550mm) from shifter to shifter

[@davidg140]

Hi, I have a carbon bar that doesnt have hole at bottom. lol Would you drill a carbon bar at bottom?

[@ridesofjapan]

Chang I have drilled 2 carbon bars as well no problem!

[@davidg140]

thank you! Rides of Japan

[@raptor7547]

Great video!! Could you please recommend cable lengths for this build?

[@cyclingzero2353]

Hi So im about to have a go at this (config 1) What length cables do you think I need? Funnily enough I have exact same frame but smaller size Same Bars too :D

[@ridesofjapan]

36 D i don’t remember exactly what I had in this exact video, but I’d say 55cm between the levers, 35cm down to the junction. I do recommend that you take a piece of string/tread/rope and cut it to length of the respective di2 cable and make sure it long enough before buying anything.

[@yohanliadi558]

Nice vids! One question though, how do you route the cable from left shifter to right shifter? Internally or externally? Thanks!

[@ridesofjapan]

In this particular case I routed externally. But I have also done it internally, check this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXTRpH6tgctsfJo

[@Tchairdjian]

Hi again Rides of Japan. I decided to swap the 105 components on my Alumium Bianchi to Ultegra di2. can you recommend a decent Alum (7050) handlebar that I can use? Are all bars hollow all the way through? I'd like to pull a di2 wire from the RS910 from one end of the bar end to the Shifter at the other end... I would probably have to pull it all the way to the bar end and then bring it up to the shifter as I don't think there is a handlebar with holes near the shifters like carbon handlebars have... Or do you recommend an INexpensive carbon handlebar made for di2? PEACE! haha

[@ridesofjapan]

Dick Tchairdjian sorry mate, the only aluminum handle bar I’ve used with di2 is the one in this video, so can’t speak for “all” handle bars. But as long as they are hollow all the way through they should be much easier to route than carbon bars as they can be really rough inside. (I did it on a carbon bar with the help of a vacuum cleaner in my first open build) Same with recommendations, can’t offer much assistance there as the bars I’ve used doesn’t really fall in the “inexpensive” category, sorry!

[@Tchairdjian]

Rides of Japan thank you for the reply.

[@xtra9996]

Do you have to reroute the cable through the whole frame back to the rear derailleur afterwards? I already have a DI2 installed with the standard junction box (and I'd like to get rid of it).

[@ridesofjapan]

Xtra999 normally with the standard junction box, the cable from that junction to the junction down in the bottom bracket area (where they usually put them) is too short to connect to the bar end junction or to one of the shifters. So that cable need to be swapped for a longer one or alternatively extended with a 2-port I line junction. That wouldn’t give you the cleanest setup though. The cable to the derailleurs and battery should work as is.

[@xtra9996]

@@ridesofjapan Thanks mate. Sounds like a lot of work ...

[@patrickkatzmair]

Nice job! Do you wire the left Shifter with the right Shifter extern or intern thru the handlebar?

[@ridesofjapan]

Patrick Katzmair I've done them externally, tape them down together with the brake hoses/cables. I guess you run them internally as well by making the same hole on the left drop and up to the shifter from there. Then you wouldn't need a dummy-cable either. I have read that not at carbon bars are completely hollow around the clamp area.

[@CAHSAG]

I've got a similar question, as I guess I'm not seeing how you ran the cable from the right shifter (also wired to the RS910) to the left shifter. Wouldn't it be either running under the clamp of the stem? Do you drill another couple of holes to run that cable internally? I guess if you drilled a similar hole as on the right, you could run the cable down the drop from the shifter, and then back up through the bar across to the RS910.

[@ridesofjapan]

Harris Silver sorry for not including the complete routing. I was waiting on my frame to be delivered so I couldn't do the final installation. Anyway, In my case, I just run a cable (55cm) externally from the right shifter strait over to the left shifter, just letting the cable run over the stem clamp on the underside. But like you said, if you really wanna clean up the handlebars as much as possible, drilling both sides and have one wire go all the way through the bars would be a very clean solution. Junction B > shifter 1 > junction A > shifter 2 would make sense I think, only 1 cable on each drop.

[@BrentonCollas]

I think I will do mine this way. I had to buy a damn long etube from the junction B near the seat tube to the new junction a bar end, so will have the old etube I'm replacing to run from the left hand side to the right hand side. I would make a video, but Im not as handsome as you ;)

[@ridesofjapan]

Haha! Check my Open UP build video about di2 routing, I did the handlebar wiring the same way I mentioned above (9 months ago 😱 damn, time flies!)

[@hberlin836]

Thanks a lot for this video. Really good way to wire the di2

[@Firby007]

hey which grip tape are you using in the video? and are you satisfied with it? it lokks nice! cheers

[@ridesofjapan]

It’s the lizard skin 2.5mm, it’s okay but I don’t use it now though.

[@rhyswilliams695]

Great vid. I’ve been thinking this last week how I was going to do this job myself. Very timely ;)

[@hilliardhart2564]

thanks can i change from a EW90-A junction to a EW 910 junction box

[@ridesofjapan]

hilliard hart yes you can. Only problem is that you most likely need a longer cable from the junction in the frame, so be aware of that.

[@hilliardhart2564]

@@ridesofjapan thanks

[@Nuno_bikes_fun]

Hi there fellow biker. I am very interested in doing the same kind of setup on my Di2 bike. My main problem is the handlebar, FSA Plasma with integrated stem. You mention that you have drilled 2 carbon handlebars, can you please elaborate on that and should you do it again? What about the risk of delamination? Thank you in advance for your reply

[@ridesofjapan]

Nuno Pinto yes, drilled the the carbon bars the same as in this video, I just made sure I didn’t drill too big (like in this video) and did not push the drill as hard. There always a risk drilling in any carbon as you will cut the fibers... but on this spot is where you put about the least amount of stress on the bars, and as long as you are not a 100kg sprinter that sprint while holding the end of the drops I don’t think there’s much of an issue. But yeah, they will be more “compromise” than an un-drilled bar no matter how you look at it.

[@Nuno_bikes_fun]

Rides of Japan thanks for your reply, what type of drill bit did you use ? Wood ? Concrete or steel ? Have you noticed any delamination ???

[@ridesofjapan]

Nuno Pinto think it was a metal drill. No delamination for the duration I’ve used them.

[@emilbaligod1935]

Hi there! There is one remaining Di2 port. Will Shimano Remote Etube Sprint Shifter SW-R610 work with this? Thank you.

[@ridesofjapan]

Emil Baligod unfortunately they will not work with the 9170 shifters as they don’t have the dedicated sprint shifter ports. You need the new SW-R9150 sprint shifters.

[@emilbaligod1935]

Rides of Japan, That was fast. You are the best! By the way, a bike shop here in Manila was surprised by how neat the way my di2 was installed. I caught them disassembling my bar tape just to see ho i did it. Thank you again.

[@ridesofjapan]

Emil Baligod haha awesome mate! 💪

[@jeffreyalex]

I have Canyon H31 integrated carbon bars and would like to use the Di2 bar end junction box. Anyone have experience drilling that type of bar? Any reinforcement needed around the hole to prevent cracking or other failures on the carbon bars?

[@ridesofjapan]

I’ve drilled a canyon bar in the past, same process, no issues since the hole is not on a stress point. Just take your time when drilling and don’t apply too much pressure.

[@summa1988able]

I've already got the di2 setup in my Giant TCR with the old di2 junction box under the stem. If I buy the new bar end junction box do I need to buy any additional di2 cables or are the ones I'm using already suffice? Thanks

[@ridesofjapan]

Your current wires will most likely be too short. Especially the one coming from the BB junction.

[@sugofa7436]

I got 6870 shifters and I only see 1 connector for the wire. What kind of shifter s are you using?

[@ridesofjapan]

SUGOFA in the video I use the 9170 shifters. If you have 6870 you should have two normal di2 ports and one dedicated “sprinter shifter” port on each shifter. Unused ports might be covered with a small plastic plug that you can remove. I think the only shifter with only 1port is the st-r785.

[@Jmgantphotography]

With just a few more small holes drilled couldn't one run everything internally?

[@stevedavies9785]

I have copied CONFIG 1 but cannot get it to work? My set up uses 6870 shifters, 6870 Front Derailleur and 8050 GS rear Mech. Battery is the SM-BTR2-1. When I tried the E-Tube program it asks me if I want to use the Sprint button on 6870-R (which I dont have). Can anyone help as it literally took hours to run the cables :(

[@ridesofjapan]

Steve Davies I think you must have connected the cables to the sprinter shifter ports on the shifters (the port on the bottom) These can only be used to sprinter shifters. Just move the cable to the connector above and it should work!

[@stevedavies9785]

Thx. I did have it in the lower port. Now recognises everything. Updated firmware and all good to go. Just need to tidy up cabling and wrap the bars 👍🏼

[@ridesofjapan]

Steve Davies glad it worked! I definitely should have included that information in the video. As my 9170 shifter don’t have those sprinter shifter ports I completely forgot that it could be a problem.

[@Nuno_bikes_fun]

Do you know if this setup will work with Shimano R785, I understand I need the y cable

[@ridesofjapan]

Yep, will work either with the y-cable, or an extra internal junction in the handle bar (if it fits)

[@RixterNow]

So if someone has a "compatible handlebar" there's no drilling or external cable routing?

[@ridesofjapan]

Rixter correct 👍

[@ricric9521]

You can use any carbon bar that has internal cable routing in its design. Works even better because no drilling required.You will have to fish the control unit wire in the bar to the opening closest to the shifter, then from that right shifter to the left shifter inside the bar, then from the left shifter out of the handlebar opening at the stem.

[@FramedOriginalComics]

Excellent video! Thank you.

[@BrentonCollas]

Hey Nasu, can I ask a dumb question? Did you shrink the heatshrink, or just use it as is? I can't easily find 8mm shroud here but can get 10, which should shrink down. My project is about to begin! Thanks in advance. I'll buy you a beer next year if we pass through your way....

[@ridesofjapan]

Yes, shrank it. Watch this video arount the 7:00 mark kzbin.info/www/bejne/f5_CpnuDeaeBas0m

[@internationalgypsi]

Hello, great instructions video - I was wondering which cable length you used for connecting the shifters in this setup?

[@ridesofjapan]

Doruk Guentay cheers mate! 55cm cable between shifters 35cm between handlebar end junction and shifter. 140cm cable between Handlebar end junction and junction B in config 1, 120cm cable between shifter and junction B in config 2

[@internationalgypsi]

@@ridesofjapan many thanks for your help! happy rides and looking forward for continuously great (not to mention fun) content in 2019

[@ridesofjapan]

Doruk Guentay 🙏

[@moserroman2083]

excellent video ! nice to see it all how it works

[@moserroman2083]

Can I ask your opinion ? I have right now and for 1,5 year an aero road disc bike . I removed the R785 ultegra level shifters. And I don't know what to choose between the R9120 dura ace mechanical with dura ace front and rear derailleurs. Or the R8070 ultegra DI2 levers with ultegra DI2 derailleurs from the new generation. And maybe some sprint shifters ... I tested the new dura ace mechanical on a Dogma F10 rim brake and was quite impressed. The R9120 are a little longer than the ultegra dI2 disc R8070 but they are better than previous generation . And lighter . What would you ? I will also build a cyclocross gravel stainless steel next year with haero carbon handlebar ( with fastest extensions to remove ) and super light for touring and long distance

[@ridesofjapan]

+moser roman personally I’m a di2 convert, I would not go back to cables. Same with disc brakes, hydraulic all the way... only reason to go mechanical is if you’re a hardcore weight weenie, but then again would probably wouldn’t go discs at all ;) So I would go R8070 without a doubt. The R8070 and R9170 are very similar in weight as well... obviously not as light in R9150 though. I like the r785 Better than he R9120 Actually, although I only felt them on a demo bike and not ridden them, but they felt way bigger than my old r758. That obviously my own very subjective opinion on it :)

[@MsRichardbaird]

Hi great video, I assume programming of all features is not affected in any way regardless of wiring...apols if has been asked...just checking!!

[@ridesofjapan]

That is correct 👍

[@69hobi]

Hi, can u pls. tell my the all Part numbers for all components, thx!

[@sinill17]

I'm an eternal fan of yours.... ^^~~ I'm using it as your teaching di2(r-8050) set((without using the expensive Y-split di2 cable) I have a question....??? shimano... sw-r600 switch.... Can I use it ??? I'm always watching your youtube~~ Thx~~

[@ridesofjapan]

Hi mate, As long as you have an empty port (preferably on one of your sti-lever) you can use it. If you STI’s only have two ports each, this should work: junctionB > junctionA > leverA > leverB > sw-r600

[@sinill17]

@@ridesofjapan Wow...Fast feedback ~!!! Thank you very much.. Always be careful of corona(Japanese).... -__-:: p.s- Where do you live in Japan(city)? I always support you in Korea~~~

[@ridesofjapan]

Si Jeong yes, I live in Saitama Japan Cheers!

[@pl.sargento]

Why you have to use two wires to connect bar end?

[@ridesofjapan]

You don’t have to

[@sinill17]

Will it(d-fly wu-111) be possible.. .^^:::?

[@ridesofjapan]

Si Jeong sure no problem, just put it in the handlebar inline between the shifter and junction.

[@umutbirey101]

why not drill the holes near the shifters ?

[@Nuno_bikes_fun]

Great videos. I like your style of shooting and the post-production. Are you in the multimedia area of business ??? Cheers

[@ridesofjapan]

Nuno Pinto thanks! I’m in the IT field. Video is just a hobby :)

[@jordandupont7430]

So how did you get the cable from the left shifter to the right side junction box?

[@davebowcock9775]

Brilliant Video!!!

[@TheAntibyte]

Instead of electrical tape use a rubber grommet.

[@v1ncen715]

would need a bigger hole, also rubber is too heavy! :D

[@iacoponesi7593]

Excellent video and info! Can I ask what bar tape was that...? Lizard Skin maybe? Thanks for sharing and keep it up!

[@ridesofjapan]

Iacopo Nesi thanks mate! Yes it’s lizard skins 2.5

[@calebizsol]

Coolness

[@grimp53]

Use a file to ovalize the hole

[@jla9128]

Great video!!!!

[@williealston9120]

Easier to drill hole in fluted section under top of bar, strongest section of bar.

[@jasonhearne1174]

Fingering that hole with sandpaper was like something from The Human Centipede

[@aaronl1402]

If I only saw this video before I went and bought a new bar for the bar end junction box :(

[@ernesto_longhi]

Like a pro!

[@NatPage]

im pretty sure you could just make your own cable and save the $

[@noodlesgotprops]

日本人の方ですか？？

[@ridesofjapan]

日本に住んでる外人です。

[@Lumperator]

This is a significant weakening of the handlebar! If the manufacturer didn't do it, don't take chances!

[@tbonemcfeely5432]

Why are people so afraid to talk?

[@turner02]

this is why you just get the etap.

[@pgee70utube]

use words to explain instead of music.