Shimano Di2 Re-Cable Project // Giant TCR Road Bike

[@ridesofjapan]

One battery to rule them all ✊

[@orci77]

Rides of Japan I miss measuring the weight of new cable vs. old cable setup 🤔

[@weler2491]

That recable work might have added some new grams to the bike, so it's not valid, we can not tolerate that.

[@itsm3th3b33]

Sorry to say - this is an utter mess. None of this is required in eTap. True wireless.

[@kennethstreet7868]

@@itsm3th3b33 yay unpaired shifter

[@pf465]

@@kennethstreet7868 Is that really a thing?

[@roilev]

This video makes me appreciate the wireless groupsets!

[@thedownunderverse]

Ivo Roilev This video makes me appreciate mechanical Campy 😆

[@kennethstreet7868]

Have you ridden both more than a little. Shimano precision in both brake and shift quality is reason enough to not put sram on your bike.

[@roilev]

@@kennethstreet7868 Shift quality of the shimano is definitely inferior. You always feel the missing cog. I have enough friends with issues on their XT/XTR brakes to stay clear of them too.

[@kennethstreet7868]

@@roilev Your friends of interesting opinions, What would be more interesting as if you had your own. Sram can hardly make a bike shift well. That's so much the case they even tried to stop making Front derailleurs. Their super wide range cassettes are notoriously jumpy. I'd rather not get tendinitis from my cassette but thanks you have at it.

[@itsm3th3b33]

kenneth street Don’t mistake your lack of mechanical skills with SRAM deficiencies. I’ve been using SRAM Red eTap true wireless for over 3 years now and can say with confidence that it works fine. You do need to ensure that your rear derailleur hanger is aligned and the cogs are indexed correctly. Once that’s done shifts are buttery smooth. Indexing can be done while you ride the bike, which I find much better and easier. And you don’t have to mess with cabling and junction box location, which not all frames can accommodate.

[@jobicek]

The Y splitter was created to achieve a much cleaner look compared to the old handlebar junction box. And it should look pretty much like your end result. One cable should run along the rear brake hose/ housing and the other should almost invisibly cross the stem along the bottom of the handlebars. Problem is that whoever assembled the bike was clueless. The Di2 cabling is obviously intended for continental left-front brake set-up but it looks like you have right-front set-up, given you're in Australia. The solution is simple, just flip the cable around (the splitter should be on the same side as your rear brake lever, as the cable is supposed to run along the hose/ housing). Done. The wireless unit is supposed to be connected between the Y splitter and the cable going to the frame junction box, clipped onto the hose/ housing. It's a great location as it's close to a head unit. I can see a unit there exactly where it's supposed to be in the before shot, but I guess it's just a connecting junction. I don't know why would they put it into the seat tube and then use a connecting junction. I wouldn't put a wireless unit inside metal handlebars. That's not great for RF signals. I'm with you on the battery front. Wireless is convenient as far as cabling goes, but I'm just allergic to it. i guess it's a professional deformation. Wires just work. I build my bikes (= I do the extra work) and I would still rather play with the cables. It might also be the child in me. :-)

[@R_Haraldsson]

One battery and fast shifting. I switched from Dura Ace DI2 to GRX DI2 Shifter - awesome!

[@Wyzbowski]

Looks so much better. One of the first things I did on my Tarmac Pro was fit Pro Vibe aero bars. There was a small junction cable under the stem that I substituted for my Bluetooth widget. Although its still visible, it’s tucked away virtually out of sight. I did need a 10mm longer Di2 cable from the junction box to the right shifter. Specialized actually shrink wrap the rear brake hose and Di2 cable together until they enter the frame. I won’t run a remote shifter until Shimano shrink the thing a bit more! Totally agree with your Di2 v SRAM reasoning. I had the choice of a 2019 model Tarmac with Di2 or 2020 model with AXS. I went for Di2 for the 1 battery reason as well as the much better looking ( in my humble opinion) hoods on Shimano.

[@jimhansen5395]

Woohoo! Glad to see you using the Boeshield. I have been using it on all of my bikes since I started riding indoors. I also use it on the stem/bar and seatpost bolts on all of my outside bikes. It's wet where I ride, and it really helps keep the corrosion away.

[@jimhansen5395]

BTW, the boeshield is also the perfect lube for thru-axles.

[@gplama]

Ooohh... nice tip!

[@297BLM13]

Great idea with the T-9. I've always used it as chain lube but never thought about applying it elsewhere on the bike. Thanks!

[@gplama]

I have to thank Raoul Luescher for this recommendation.

[@mattcostall5321]

I did similar with my Cervelo, fitted sprint shifters cabling was a challenge. I was disappointed that wasn't holes drilled further up the bars near the shifters so i didn't have to run cables down the outside. But pleased with the finished product like you

[@Ultegra10SPD]

I did the same on my rim brake tcr exiting my bar’s right side port (since my Non-disc goes in on right side of the TT). I did shorter wires and extra junction boxes but your way works just the same. In my case i left and extra cable open-ended at the porthole so when i throw an aerobar on i can use a rear tt shifter with a coupler i hid in the right hand ski. Makes for easy on/off between these hilly TTs i test myself on. HNY!! -U10

[@coppo675]

good to hear you're taking onboard the heatshrinking that MTB installers are using alot now

[@peermancolin]

Shane, excellent video. I went out and bought the Park kit straight away, whilst shops still had stock....

[@petercallaghan6987]

Very tidy. And I finally spotted your link to be a member 👍🏻. 🔵

[@clawdawg7248]

Love this shit. Well done. Di2 is a joy with which to work, and you can’t beat the reliability. Ran all my handlebar wires internally with Enve’s Di2 road bar, with the heat shrink. Super slick.

[@gooders9093]

When u disconnect the front end of the hydro so long as you are careful there is no need for a full bleed. It may only require a burp using a bleed pot as air will only be at the front (or fluid lost from the front). Just disconnect 8mm nut pull cable out slide heat shrink on and immediately push cable back in and tighten nut. Then using bleed pot on front bleed port top up and lost fluid by gently tapping cable and squeezing lever. You should see air come up the pot and be replaced with fluid.

[@lambo_the4445]

But the olive will be stuck on at the end of the brake line and in the way of getting the nut off, and you can't get the heat shrink over the nut. With some effort, you can remove it but will need another olive.

[@TheRealMichaelB]

@@lambo_the4445 Agree - works best when combining with trimming brake lines (e.g. removing OEM excess).

[@richardhaselwood9478]

I bought myself one of those routing kits (not Park Tool, X Tools rather, about 1/3 the price). The first time I used it, properly (it takes a bit of practice to get things right), it was just......... amazing. The first time I routed new brake and cable housing through my 2015 Defy, I had to make sure the kids were in school, because there was so.. much.. swearing.. Using one of those routing tools, it was...... amazing. I could get these POS cables into the right holes, almost easily.....

[@BisleyBob]

I have the same bike and the messy cabling winds me up. I’ll definitely be doing this as well as shortening the brake lines. Thanks for the video, really useful.

[@bradallen8643]

BisleyBob I’ve finally got all the gear together and will be starting the same bar changeover, new Di2 cabling and shortening the brake lines next week. Have you done yours yet?

[@BisleyBob]

Brad Allen Not yet mate. I’ll probably get it cracked in a few months. Be interesting to see if you have a similar experience to Shane or if you hit some issues. Hopefully the junction by the BB is easy to fish out with the stock BB. I don’t fancy removing it

[@bradallen8643]

@BisleyBob - job done. Di2 was a piece of cake but had to upgrade shifters to R8070 as my old RS785 only had one port on LH side. Shortening hyd cables was more difficult, had to do each twice cos kept getting length wrong. Hint; get a Shimano or Park Tool hose cutting/insert tool, allow for possible future longer stem, get spare olives/inserts for mistakes, use Sugru for frame grommets, patience & perseverance for bleeding

[@BisleyBob]

Brad Allen nice. I need to get around to ordering the stuff for it. Luckily I won’t need to get new shifters

[@robferguson3351]

@@bradallen8643 Finally got round to doing this (I’m BisleyBob just consolidated accounts). I hit a bit of a hitch in that the standard handlebars don’t have a DI2 hole in the left drop. Didn’t have the time to get a hole drilled last night so have had to run a wire under the bars to connect the left shifter which is a bit of a temporary bodge. It still looks way better than standard though.

[@michaelkaye4998]

Very informative video. Liked it a lot. I agree with the battery comment. One verse 4. FSA is one verse 3 but has cables also.

[@ricric9521]

The junction box only needs to "touch" the system so only one wire can run from the bar end junction box. I have one wire going from the bar end junction box --> right shifter ->left shifter -> into frame - BB junction -> battery\derailleurs. Works great. Of course you can place the wireless in line anywhere.

[@robbchastain3036]

Thanks, Shane, for this report from the Land of the Giants :)

[@PeterPlaunt]

Good job. Will be doing the same routing on my Revolt with GRX

[@kona6812]

Insane! Looking good now. But I am happy running Sram Red e-tap on my bike 😉 no shifter cable anymore 😀 No problems with batteries

[@thekeytoairpower]

I have basically the same bike as you... bought a few weeks before you announced it on youtube.... difference is I bought mine as a frame which means two things... 1) It was only available in pink 2) my cabling was exactly how I wanted it (heat wrapped... only one entrance used into the frame etc)... Pain in the butt to build though.

[@barrydaniel3308]

Great video, I have the propel and love the fact that shimano di2 is so easy to mod and adjust. . Nice one 👍

[@AaronGoodTimes]

Still love that climbing shifter.

[@markxkovacic]

Instead of the park tool I used a shop vac and a piece of string. It sucked the string thru the bars faster then the special tool. I did the same Di2 cable routing on a Niner RLT RDO gravel bike and I like the clean look.

[@aerobrain2001]

Damn you pre-empted my sarchy eTap comment :-) Seriously though, that looks so much better than the old wiring! Definitely worth the effort!

[@sambrown1779]

Awesome. Now I am going to try this on my Grail SL 👍👍

[@reznorreznor7204]

I bought SRAM AXS for gravel bike and mountain bike a couple months ago. Mountain bike it went on smooth. Problem with gravel bike: I have 2017 KICKR, which is NOT compatible with 12-speed. Only the 2018+ KICKRs. So I would need a new KICKR. Not happening. So returned the AXS and went with GRX Di2. This video is exactly what I was looking for since I have NO idea what the hell I'm doing. SRAM AXS came in one box. The Di2 has 15 boxes.

[@PeakTorque]

Neat video Shane. Will be doing similar soon...

[@stacybarbadillo29]

Nice work, Shane!!

[@stebesplace]

Awesome setup! I think when I put new tape on next, I'll consider rerouting the cables since my front end is very similar with the junction cable, and now wireless unit. The only difference is that the junction port is in my downtube, not the bar ends, so have to think this through some. Thanks!

[@69pslim]

You are the man with the master plan

[@filofilo8127]

Good Vid Shane . I'm happy with mechanical shifters....

[@tualatindjep]

So glad that I went with SRAM eTap, look, no wires.

[@nikohenschen139]

Great video, I have used this to recable my bike, successfully ... 🙂 - Thanks!!

[@gplama]

Glad it helped!

[@yahyabaali7886]

Hey Shane, great video I did a similar clean up on my bike. I would have suggested for you to install the wireless module between the bar end junction box and the shifter using really short di2 cables. Connecting them was hard but it would avoid you having a cable running under the bar tape on your left hand.

[@bradallen8643]

Yahya Baali Are you suggesting that the 1200mm Di2 cable connecting the left shifter to the right bar end junction A is not required?

[@boeshieldt9403]

Great use of T-9!

[@christopherhood9241]

useful ... about to order a frame and purchase di2. trying to pick up as much info as possible before i put theory into practice.

[@SB-eu2dv]

Thanks for this. I rewired mine today and it your video was super useful. (I tried to FB message you but accidentally posted to your FB page about it. Sorry about that! It didn't go public, phew.)

[@jonathanzappala]

I did not know you can get a dub quarq for 5 bolt chainrings. I thought it was only for axs force or red rings. I learned something new.

[@ewelshwelsh]

This video is a fantastic endorsement for Etap!!

[@gplama]

As discussed at the end of the video.

[@tthheekk]

Makes you think sram wifli is the way to go until you consider there is 4 separate batteries to contend with (half of them not chargeable). Di2 one battery and you charge it so infrequently that it is almost like no battery (di2 owner bias I must admit). When that wireless air charging thing hits wifli it will be hard to ignore though. Either way, love the effort undertaken to make this improvement Shane. It's stuff like this that keeps me coming back to this channel!

[@mikel3351]

Wow! Extremely clean. Wish Shimano could do wireless though.

[@matthewhutcheson257]

they do

[@somewhatfrog]

haha it is funny, I've just recently accomplished almost the same internal routing thru the brake cable hole, but on non di2 ready cervelo s3 from 2010 using first di2 group set (non internal as well, so you cant unplug cables from junction box, that was a nice puzzle game). Also, instead of zip ties, I used heat shrink cable to merge those two exposed cables in front, looks even neater, even tho it felt kind of risky to keep a lighter near those museum old di2 cables lol

[@kevinhicks8515]

You mentioned having 2 1200mm cables. One was used to the 4 port junction box. Where was the other one used?

[@azmiribrahim8494]

The other one is in the handlebar. For my Giant TCR, I believed I'll only need one 1200mm cable for the frame and the existing shorter one can be use for the handlebar.

[@Cynyr]

Oblig: "Thats not a knife! this is a knife!"

[@m2jn16]

Good stuff Shane....thanks!

[@itsdeebs5156]

Definitely a lot cleaner. Heat shrink when you do your brakes is going to make it look mint mate. I went the SRAM route on my TCR 2020 time will tell if I regret it but I quite like their new axs Groupset and any excuse to play with tech. My observation thus far with the SRAM etap from watching other riders is all issues are with the operator. Imagine di2 to be the same. For me i charge everything when I charge my head unit/s. Favero Assiomas, Head Unit, etap batts, cycliq cameras, varia Radar all have a neat little power station good to go. Keeps everything charged and consistent.

[@moe-moon]

This guy bikes. Legit are you me? Assiomas, Garmin, Cycliq shizzles. I am on Di2 but i barely need to charge, like once every 6 months.

[@itsdeebs5156]

@@moe-moon I don't think the charging thing is a huge issue other than you can forget to do it easily. I just find it easy to do it at the same time. I am confident at the moment my main bike has more value in accessories than the bike itself. Fixing that very soon

[@kennethstreet7868]

Additional upsides of shimono include breaks and shift quality

[@raptor7547]

You missed the opportunity to use heat shrink tubing. You can get a size where it fits just perfect, you need to route Di2 cable first, then brake hose. Super clean finish and you don't need to apply heat at all!

[@mikebrooksAHDR]

How good is that park tool! You may have also mentioned it...

[@gplama]

Mate, it's magic. It saved me pulling my hair (singular) out!

[@itsdeebs5156]

I need this tool in my life and I got a wireless Groupset o_O legit though want for wiring guitars and production stuff.

[@orci77]

Shane sold some park tools. How cool is this tool!

[@RobBlazoff]

Shane will be bummed out when Shimano holds a presser next month announcing DI2 wireless...

[@gplama]

As long as they redesign that $*@&#^ right side crank I'll be happy. ;)

[@itsdeebs5156]

Nah not wireless to my understanding but ... Shimano are moving away from prime numbers on the backend for DuraAce. Seen a prototype being banged on around Melbourne by a pro. Think there's been a few leaked photos

[@itsdeebs5156]

@@gplama cranks are staying the same mate. Cause doubt so they buy more power meters. So glad I got Favero Assiomas and the Quarq Dzero. Only devices I trust.

[@8rk]

@@gplama I want shimano to make a spider based super accurate PM like p2max / quarq so bad :(

[@draaronreynolds]

I might have missed the explanation, Shane, but why do you have a SRAM DUB BB and crankset with Shimano Di2?

[@WeiliangLau]

Very neat, looks great

[@cholongolongo01]

With the endbar Junction Box...couple of turns when starting the bartape wrap (as in before starting to move up te handlebar?) since no barend plug to secure the bartape??

[@gplama]

Correct

[@garethskwarczek]

Why didn't you go with internal cable bars? Seems a great opportunity to tuck them all away in the bars and not have the cable run when your gripping the drops

[@tonyyoung4030]

I did a very similar install on my Cervelo C3, I used a pair of SW-R9150 shifters instead on that god ugly climbing shifter. That meant keeping a y junction in the system.

[@stuartdryer1352]

The one battery is a plus.

[@moe-moon]

Yo Shane, you gotta get that on that Heatshrink!

[@DineshGeorgeChannel]

That 'print screen' reference made me miss that button on that keyboard. 😅

[@MrBJPitt]

I was all set to do this project from a nice deal I got on a used 6870. But 6870 sti won't let you do this for some reason. I double checked everything, checked for updates firmware, tried different junction boxes and batteries (original external and interal). It worked fine using my 9150 sti, but no deal with 6870. You can still get a clean set-up, but need to use B junction box in the handlbar to connect both sti. Strange that you can run sprint shifters, but not connect sti to each other.

[@jaylumbago559]

For me this looks like a commercial for SRAM eTap...

[@gplama]

Until the point where I discuss that. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@jaylumbago559]

Shane Miller - GPLama I just wanted to be funny. Every system has its pros and cons. For me personally, I would prefer less wiring. I really like your videos. Best Greetings to Australia!

[@rasmuswi]

Random comments: First, you forgot reason number four to have Shimano: The hood buttons that control the head unit. I love them so much that I'm seriously asking myself if I can get hood buttons on those of my bikes that don't have di2. Garmin seems to sell some remote control that might do the trick. If you plan to get new brake hoses, get the Shimano hose gutting tool, it's so clever that many people who did a KZbin clip on how to use it didn't get how it actually works. Clamp the hose in the tool, use the included cutter to get a perfect cut, on the exact spot where you wanted it, then use the tool to push the barb into the hose. No clamping into a vice, no banging on the hose with a hammer, no smoothing of the cut, the cut is already perfect. This German guy has it figured out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5nOlWupiZKlqLM . If you don't understand German, just turn off the sound and watch him do it. It's kind of the difference between using the Park tool routing kit and trying to use a vacuum cleaner to suck the cable through the handlebar, I've tried both versions. Your cable routing looks a lot like the one I did when I built my bike, the only real difference is that I put my wifi unit in the frame, just inside the entry hole, I figured it would be easier to disconnect the handlebar that way. But that works because my bike has a big entry hole in the frame, and a plug with smaller holes that you put in the big hole. I can remove the plug and pull the wifi thing out through the big hole if needed.

[@gplama]

Brilliant info! Bookmarked and that tool is now on my shopping list.

[@82vitt]

That tool cost a modest £75. And it is mentioned together with a step by step how to use it in the Di2 manual.

[@markusschneider444]

Shane, what was the reason to move the wireless port from the seatpost to the handlebars?

[@gplama]

Wanted to see it was any more responsive. (Inconclusive results at this point... same same)

[@thecappy]

My di2 compatible Ritchey handlebars only have one hole. Guess it's time to get out a drill.

[@ianswinscoe7678]

Awesome video and production as ever, I have a question why move your wireless module into the handlebar? The reason I ask is mine is around the stem on the propel and I was going to put it into the seat post, but now I have another option of location.

[@gplama]

Never any issues in the seat post.... but a lot of people mentioned they had issues with it in that location. I guess it's bike dependent. I thought I'd relocate it to see if there was any difference in lag/latency/etc.

[@jonathanzappala]

Shane Miller - GPLama I’ve actually done the reverse on mine. I guess it’s just laggy? It didn’t get any slower that I can tell. I got rid of the cable under the bar tape and replaced the 3cm cable at the bars for a 1.5cm in the seatpost. 1.5 grams saved for good measure haha. The notch I cut in the end of my drop is still there now though...

[@juwonkwon5785]

Hi Shane IMO you could have made this look better if you snaked the Di2 wire through the faceplate where the derailleur mech cable would go through. I did this with a hack by drilling a larger hole through that faceplate to fit the di2 wire since originally it was too small. Looks much cleaner this way and you can heat shrink the hydraulic hose next to it for a tighter look. You also don't lose that grommet that goes nicely over the hydraulic hose port in the downtube when doing it this way

[@Pratalax]

Lovely job! Random thought - new channel logo's great but you can barely see the white Lama on the white background....maybe sit it on another colour, like say...i dunno.......hot pink. .....I kid, blue of course.

[@szabiakanich]

Handlebar floss 😂😂👏👏👌👍

[@1TimeRunner]

What brand of bottom bracket tool are you using in the video? Looks simple and maybe affordable.

[@davidh7414]

Was wondering the same thing

[@jesperplgersrensen6053]

Hey Shane. I LOVE your channel!! I see you are riden hunt wheels and Conti GP 5000 on them. Do you have trobbel getting them on ? i have same setup but i REALLY have problems getting the tires on. Thx from denmark :)

[@gplama]

Cheers Jesper. The GP5000 clinchers went on fine. Maybe leave the tyres out in the sun for a while to soften them up just a little.

[@jesperplgersrensen6053]

@@gplama mine is tubeless. the rubber cracked when i inflated them :) hehe. But thx

gorgeous bike

[@madsjensen8846]

What saddlebag is it you use? Good work 👍

[@gplama]

Usually the small Continental one that comes with a tube and two levers. Or a larger Specialized one on the gravel bike.

[@jspaceman71]

Do most of those Di2 compatible bars come with two holes in the drops?

[@bradallen8643]

jspaceman71 Pro Vibe alloy come with a hole near each bar end. Pro Vibe aero carbon have a hole near the shifters on the inside of the bend.

[@ian0012]

Nice job, I did similar to my TCR a few weeks back when I upgraded from mechanical. One question though Shane: When you route the di2 cable along with the rear brake line, have you got a grommet in the frame? I ended up running the di2 cable through the 'correct' port after trying and failing to get it through the brake port with a grommet. I didn't fancy the cable rubbing against the frame and cutting and/or the brake line damaging the carbon. P.S. You should be able to get a small round plug for your unused di2 cable port, if not try a little blob of black sugru to make it neat :)

[@gplama]

The brake and Di2 cable are jammed in and not moving with the existing grommet. It's something to consider though if they do rub/move/break.

[@paulsampson7918]

I've used Sugru to create a custom moulded grommet at entry and exit points when upgrading my Trek Domane to Di2. Looks very smooth and neat, just be sure the system all works before this step :-)

[@GuyIngram]

How on earth did you jam them into the stock grommet? Do you need to trim a bigger hole through the grommet?

[@Meilanoutdoorfitness]

Great job.

[@Tchairdjian]

Why did you decide to move the WU to the handlebar? I have mine inside the seatpost as it’s out of the way but more importantly easy to access. Btw. I also keep the JC41 junction box in there too. Again easy access. Also I have built my own cable pull system. So so simple. I used a brake ferrule and passed brake/shift cable and secured it with a crimp. The Di2 plug fits in there perfectly.

[@gplama]

Switched it over to see if it was any more responsive. No issues with it in the TCR post... but some people do report it doesn't work so well tucked away that far away from their head units.

[@Tchairdjian]

Is your handlebar carbon? I would have thought there would be a couple of holes under the bar near the shifters. Much easier to hide things.

[@Tchairdjian]

Shane Miller - GPLama OK. Like you I haven’t had any issues at all. OTOH, on my aluminum Bianchi I couldn’t put it inside anywhere so I kept it near the headset outside but heat shrink wrapped it on both ends. Love the heat shrink. So clean. Btw you wouldn’t need to bleed your brakes just to disconnect it.

[@gplama]

Alloy bars. Carbon bars are eTap level expensive.

[@Tchairdjian]

Shane Miller - GPLama what? alloy? Have you heard of Faraday Cage? Wireless signals don’t go through metal! It would leak a little from the end plug/controller that’s plastic but that signal would be atrocious.

[@scottw6598]

Great video

[@jspaceman71]

Cool video. So if I'm not using a satellite shifter I don't really need the Y-splitter cable do I? Each shifter has two ports, so I can just run a wire from one shifter to the other inside my handlebars (my bars support internal cable routing), then run a wire from the second port of one shifter to the bar end junction box, then a wire from the bar end junction box to the frame?

[@gplama]

That’s what I’ve done here in removing the y-splitter.

[@matthewbenger8355]

Shane why did you need to add a different cable from the left shifter to the 4 port? Couldn't you just use the cable that was previously there into the left shifter? Looking to do this myself but dont want to muck about in the bottom bracket

[@gplama]

That cable was re-routed differently into the frame, so I had to remove it anyway. I can't recall the specific cable swaps I did (this was a few months back now)..... but it all made sense at the time... and still works to this day. :)

[@alanw.4511]

I have my dfly mounted in the handlebar on one of my bikes and always get disconnections during the ride. Do you get wireless disconnections between the Dfly and Garmin since the handlebars mute the radio signal? On my other bike the Dfly is external and inches from the Garmin and the wireless never disconnects.

[@rafaelartavia3764]

17:43, why you didn't run it before install handlebar?

[@gplama]

No reason. It really didn't matter.

[@rafaelartavia3764]

I think it should be easier

[@iridebikes4030]

Great video and a perfect resource for my upcoming project. Thanks a lot! I have just one question about the handlebar cable routing - right side shifter and junction is crystal clear. However, for the left side of the bars, the cable goes from the left snifter directly to the junction at the BB, or does it go via another junction on the left side of the bars? At ~2:51 you mention the cable passes internally into a Di2 "port" - is this referring to a port in a junction, or the hole in the bars? Thanks again for a great Video!

[@gplama]

Thanks. Yep, the left shifter connects everything to the BB junction via a 1200mm cable. It follows the rear brake line all the way down to the BB junction.

[@iridebikes4030]

@@gplama was just doing some last minute homework, prior to going shopping for my project and something occurred to me concerning the placement of the EW-WU111 wireless unit. Have you tested the connectivity of this placement in the end of the bars? Getting a signal when the bike has no rider is one thing, but what about when your hands are on the tops or especially in the drops (entire area could be shielded by your hand)? Any chance that the signal can become compromised? Thanks again for your inputs, mate!

[@gplama]

I moved the wireless unit last week to inside the bars. Zero difference noticed to date with my bike/setup/etc.

[@TheCrossroads09]

...and there you have have it. No need to spend any more money!🤣🤣🤣

[@mlanes01]

This one is helpful to see the wiring, I have the pro bars also and was pretty miffed that they didn't put exit holes for the Di2 wires on both sides of the stem or holes at the shifters so that everything could be internally routed, the carbon bars had this, but not the alloy... fortunately alloy is strong and i grew up in the generation where customers would come to our shop and let us drill into their bikes b/c internal routing didn't exist yet... so mine are full internal. The only difference is that I left my wireless unit external just below the stem to act as a quick disconnect to i don't have to take out the bb or re-route the cables if i change my set up. Quick tip... the park tool is awesome but if you are a home mechanic and doing this once, you can take a wheel magnet and a tandem length sis cable with a brass brake housing stop in it to do the exact same thing for $1.50. Also, the T9 on the bars is kinda laughable, just retape your bars often and wipe everything down thoroughly, also buy a 15 dollar sweatguard on amazon and that will catch most of it. If you really think it works i guess to each his own, but I would recommend not spraying lube above your rotors and pads.

[@gplama]

T9 works. That’s what it’s designed for.

[@mlanes01]

@@gplama Judging by your bike being medium, what length etube cable would you need to go from the seat tube to the junction box @ the BB? I ordered a 2021 TCR advanced pro and I'm retrofitting my 8070 group from a canyon ultimate. Im guessing you need longer than you would think b/c you would need to get the seatpost out to disconnect the battery etc....

[@gplama]

@@mlanes01 I think that's a 1000mm. I can't recall specifically, but yep, you're on the money - it needs more than normal for the post removal.

[@targaW3007]

Well done

[@CynicalManInBlack]

In case I do not have a climbing shifter, where does that cable from the right shifter need to connect to instead? So the first cable goes to Junction box A, and what about the second one?

[@gplama]

Everything just needs to be connected once ‘somewhere’. If you have no climbing shifter, leave that port spare.

[@CynicalManInBlack]

@@gplama So in my case, Left shifter would have 1 cable to the BT unit (which is then connected to Box A) and the second cable through the frame to Box B. And the right shifter have only one cable to box A. Is that right?

[@gplama]

@@CynicalManInBlack Sounds right. If you're unsure you can always hook everything up to test before internally routing the cables.

[@DonaldLL825]

The reason for changing the handlebars... is it because stock bars are not drilled for Di2 or it was just time for a change. I guess my real question is can you do this with the stock handlebars?

[@gplama]

I wanted 38 bars. There's usually no real issues with drilling non Di2 alloy bars underneath the end drops for internal wiring.

[@JimHaysom]

Really high saddle, is that a 54cm frame?

[@gplama]

Yep.

[@JimHaysom]

Shane Miller - GPLama My suspicions correct hahaha. I’m 181cm and running a 56cm frame and recent bike fit they did mention opportunity to go down a size. Not a lot of space on my seat post after an Exposure light and a saddle bag!

[@thomasbonde2118]

Use a piece of string, with a nut tied onto it, thread it through the bar before is installed. Easy, save the kit

[@bubbachua]

Hi Shane, my bike came with the junction in the dropbar as well but without the wireless unit. If I wanna install the wireless unit into the handlebar like what you done, do I have to remove all the tape around the handlebar/dropbar? Thank you

[@gplama]

If you want to re-route the cables within the handlebar, then yes.

[@bubbachua]

Shane Miller - GPLama thanks Shane, keep up the good work and look forward to more interesting experiments :)

[@julienrobert3938]

Hello Shane, thanks for this content. Do you have to take our the bottom bracket to replace the long cable? Can you tell me what is the normal routing of this cable coming from the frame to the junction box? I'm thinking about replacing the juction box by the end of handlebar one and also put in my mounting the DFly module. I would like to keep the "long" cable from my bike, but not sure this can be long enought... Thanks by advance for your help! Again great content, i love you channel. PS: what about a 12speed Di2 soon?

[@gplama]

Wiring can be done almost any way.... as long as everything is connected at least once. Maybe see this video where I upgraded a whole bike for how I wired that up (with a different Junction A): kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmLFp36Bqr6spKM

[@mariosimas]

You should use the sprint shifters for climbing whe you have the hands on the topof the handlebar :)

[@gplama]

I'll have to look into what's compatible with the 8070 levers. The standard single press sprint switch isn't.

[@mariosimas]

@@gplama use the older ones. thats what I have :). do you have 3 ports in the levers ?

[@gplama]

@@mariosimas Just the two ports on the 8070 levers.

[@michaelblume150]

@@gplama you can hack the 610 climbing shifters and solder wires to the electronic circuit board that are wired to the old style single press sprint shifters as you called them. I did it on my venge, super neat.

[@anthonyhilchey8215]

Wicked Pissah Cool 😎

[@jeremychineewei]

What would be the opening hole diameter required to be able to 'squeeze' through the brake and Di2 cables through the down tube?

[@Lycradad]

Good vid Shane. Bike looks much neater now. I was wondering if you have had any dropouts when riding with a Garmin head unit? I’m asking because I have a 2019 Tarmac Pro with the wireless mod installed in the seat post. Recently when training indoors i am getting beeps indicating that the Di2 and Garmin 1030 are disconnecting and then reconnecting again. (Private Ant +) Maybe 5 or six times an hour. Have also noticed that when connecting the wireless unit to my iPad via Bluetooth it is saying that the signal is too weak to do any updates. Can’t seem to remember having these issues when I first installed it in May last year.

[@SimmosKelpies]

Hi Shane, Just wondering what the length of the new di2 cable is that go from one side to the other? Thanks Matt.

[@gplama]

I have no idea sorry. I used a string to get an estimate of length and ordered the one that was equal or a little longer than that.

[@TheCyclingCardio]

Your rear brake is at the left hand..it’s reversed from what we get used to here..i plan to adopt you no-Y-cables method, but routing the right hand side cable to downtube instead

[@jiajunryanho6332]

Does bar end plug fits on the left side with the di2 cable routing outside the bar then internally?

[@gplama]

The bar end junction can be placed either side.

[@IanB17]

Looks miles neater but there’s no way I’d be attempting that myself, I’d be down to my LBS & they can do it 😂 Just need to get a bike with Di2 1st.........

[@lilhavin]

Have you had any issues with the signal of wireless unit being as though Shimano 'recommends' it installed on exterior of frame?

[@gplama]

No issues.

[@lilhavin]

@@gplama Do you know if the wireless unit can fit inside majority of di2 compatible handlebars? (I'm considering a mechanical to di2 electronic upgrade to my 3t aeronova handlebar set up) FYI - thanks for all your help. You've been a blessing to myself and so many others!

[@gplama]

@@lilhavin The wireless unit is pretty small, so I've no doubt it'll fit into most bars.