How to Waterproof RC Electronics with Epoxy Glue

[@Conrad500]

I used this as an example since someone was asking me about waterproofing electronics. This is a great little example of doing so, thanks!

[@RcAVENTURE.V.F.R]

Extraordinary brother, thank you very much for showing how the process of transforming an esc in waterproof is done, big thumbs up brother

[@BernersVlog]

RC AVENTURE Vincennes France I open up a car Ionizer on my KZbin Channel. Got check it out and don't forget to subscribe! Cheers.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks for your nice feedback! Glad it was helpful for you!

[@francolast1993]

Hey Mateo! I enjoy your videos a lot. Another way to waterproof electronics is using Conformal Coating. I am using Urethane Conformal Coating, it is brushed on and makes a solid coating. I did it on my competition truck and haven't had any issues in months.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Franco! Good to know your method!

[@joannewhilde7359]

if you do this again? put masking tape around the edge of the circuit board to make sides so your epoxy can be contained. also, be careful if you ever use an epoxy which has an high exothermic reaction temperature as it can destroy components. I used to do similar for one of r and d pcbs so learned the trick with the masking tape. Keep up the good videos, inspiring and always informative and excellent quality.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks for your good tip with the masking tape!

[@hullinstruments]

This is a copy and paste including several snippets from articles, blog posts, and instruction Tutorials I’ve written over the years. Sorry for the rambling and I hope this helps someone I’m just an electronics geek with a somewhat respectable lab… Who repairs industrial control and automation equipment… I Also restore and recalibrate test gear. And big into the laser Hobby. Anyway… Dealing with industrial equipment… I’ve come to learn a lot of things about waterproofing electronic stuff. Since I see hundreds and hundreds of industrial modules every year for repair… I’ve got a decent understanding of how it works. First of all… it’s a good idea to soak the board down really good with 100% alcohol or denatured alcohol. Then scrub the heck out of it with one of those small 1 inch disposable paintbrushes. Then give it another good soaking of alcohol with the board vertically so that it can drip off and take all the contaminants with it. Or better yet use an air compressor to blow off the contaminants and the alcohol. I buy 100% Iso alcohol by the gallon for about $15. And I keep it in a squeeze bottle on my workbench. (One of those squeeze bottles with a 90° angled tip that can be operated with one hand.) I use over a half a gallon a month at least! It really improves my work and I couldn’t live without it. There are a lot of waxy and oily residues that can come on new circuit boards… So degreasing really does help the adhesion and only takes a few squirts of alcohol and a few seconds. And the alcohol evaporates quickly taking any moisture with it. Second.... and probably most important. Try preheating your circuit boards before coating. They can handle a lot of heat But only need to be good and warm. Somewhere around 100 to 150°F would be plenty. This will help the epoxy flow in and around all of the components, And it will also adhere WAY better to the board. Also the longer cure time epoxy the better because it maintains much more flexibility. Some thing like 30 minutes is good, 60 minutes is better. Don’t get me wrong… I go through gallons at five minute epoxy every year and I love the stuff. But the faster the cure time, then the more brittle it will be. And with any vibration, it may can easily begin to pull away from the board or individual pins if it’s extremely rigid. So flexibility is great. Also when it comes to silicone… Be sure you get NEUTRAL cured silicone instead of acid cured. acid curing silicone will smell like vinegar and release acetic acid when curing. Therefore easily damaging copper and tarnishing other metals. Over time it will devour component legs and traces. Also, check out a product called “never wet“ made by rustoleum. You can spray that shit anywhere. On pcb’s, inside of power tools, on bearings, windings of a motor, Inside a brushless fan or motor, on your clothes, on your phone, hell I’ve even opened up GoPro’s and soaked the insides with this stuff when I was going to be in a precarious environment...... literally anywhere. It’s extremely thin (similar to a regular clearcoat…) But it’s hydrophobic and really is like magic.… Check out some of the videos demonstrating it. It really is amazing stuff if applied correctly. Another wonderful off-the-shelf product which is available to regular folks… Is flexseal. Yes I know it’s gotten A laughing with all of the infomercials on TV… but it really is an incredible product and cheap/readily available. Before flexseal, something similar was only available in large quantities by industrial chemical companies. But for $13 you can purchase a can of spray flexseal… or even the thicker caulk like tube. And its dang near bulletproof. If you’re worried about the epoxy pouring off the sides of the board… Then use tape or to make a dam around the board. In other words, stick the tape to the edge of the board with the sticky side facing in towards the circuitboard. Wrap the tape all the way around the board and leave the excess sticking up to make a damn so that you can fill it with epoxy. it leaves a nice perfect perimeter all around the board. Or if you’re wanting to cover the front and back of the board… the even better… Suspended the circuit board off of the table a little. Like the thickness of a coin or something similar. Then you can build a dam all around the board leaving a few millimeters extra on the sides of the board so the epoxy can flow over the top and down in under the board. That way you don’t have a bunch of open edges of epoxy that water can work its way under. But you’ve encapsulated the entire module in one slab of epoxy. If you use the dam building method… simply use some slices of cardboard like a cereal box… And a hot glue gun to build a little perimeter or wall around the board… Using another piece of cardboard or your work bench/table as a base to glue the dam to. The exact size you want. I would probably use a small plastic box a few millimeters bigger than my circuitboard. That way you can pour a little epoxy in the bottom, set your circuit board down into the box on top of the epoxy and spacer, and continue to pour epoxy on top of the board until it pours over the edges and connects with the epoxy around the sides and bottom. A small Tupperware container or any random little plastic box the same size should work fine. Once it’s cured you can pop it out and you’ve got a completely coated/padded module. But instead of a huge brick of epoxy it’s a thin coating with no seams or edges. That covers the entire front back and sides of the board in one smooth gel like coat. Just be sure to watch some acrylic/resin or mold making videos. And be sure to wax your Tupperware container/mold so that it can be removed and doesn’t stick in there. If it’s going to be some thing that’s really abused, then swap out all of your connector screws and crimp terminals with stainless instead of regular steel. And clearcoat any heat sinks or metal that isn’t coded in epoxy. It Makes a huge difference because the smallest amount of corrosion can easily spread under the coatings... wick will begin to delaminate it from the circuitboard. Any type of corrosion or patina whatsoever… Weather The white powdery oxide that forms on aluminum. Or rusting steel.... copper that’s formed a patina… it all Poses a huge hazard to the water resistance of a board. That’s the most common failure point I’ve seen which breaks down the waterproof barrier. For example… The white powder that forms and oxidizes on aluminum. That stuff somehow creeps up under and conformal coating with ease. Like it’s not even there. And most importantly…Keep in mind that NOTHING is waterproof. It may be water resistant but it’s better to leave it a bit exposed so you can dry it out later. The only exception is if you’re willing to completely pot it in a solid brick of epoxy. but then it’s completely unserviceable and it adds a lot of weight/cost. it’s always best to leave certain things open so they can be dried out after a mishap. Whether you leave it out in the sun on a dry hot day, or bake it at low to mid temperatures in an oven. the best methods for drying I found… Is 100% alcohol or denatured alcohol. Soak the entire board, transformer windings, motor windings, soak everything. It will bond to the water and draw it out as it evaporates quickly. Even then… I still put it in the sun While in front of a box fan.....or bake it in the oven. Just to be safe. This is a large cut and paste from several different articles, blog post, and instructional‘s that I’ve written over the years. Sorry for rambling… Hope this helps someone.

[@Matteomeier]

Probably the longest comment I ever got! But with good explanations and tips! Thanks! 🙏👍😊

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Matteo, this is Carmine, and this is my new, R/C exclusive channel! WOW my friend, that may be the BEST waterproofing method I've seen!! DEFINITELY tumbs up for that trick! It's a shame I can't do two on KZbin, so I do this - 👍👍😎

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Carmine! Subbed to your new channel! looking forward to your own videos!

[@ventureelect]

Just spray them with clear coat acrylic lacquer. Been doing it for years.

[@Matteomeier]

Looks like it's also a good method! Thanks! 👍

[@jamurphy8386]

That is great idea! It is permanent, and still allows for cooling.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Murph!

[@JF-RC]

Hi Matteo, nice video. That is a very easy and relatively cheap way to waterproof electronics for the RC car. Nice demonstration of how successful the method is. Take care, keep well and a Merry Christmas and a happy New Year. 😊😉😊

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks 👍 Happy new year! 👍👍😊

[@rcmctool2918]

Hello Matteo, Just a FYI.. The process used to encapsulate the electronic PCB is called potting.... 8^)

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Tick Tock for your advice! I appreciate any help to improve my english!

[@madtopp]

not a fan of the adverts but you got to admit it's a good one I can see why /if you allowed it. the video is another great informational one . plus I can see some dirt on them bruiser? tyres so will there be a new video comming soon

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Madtopp! Ohh be careful, the dirt on the Bruiser is very old...

[@brandonholt1475]

Thanks for sharing Matteo. My first time seeing this done with two part epoxy. Very informative.

[@Matteomeier]

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

[@Del350K4]

I had always wondered whether the "balloon" technique might promote overheating and had always imagined that the "epoxy" method involved nothing more than the application of epoxy to the points where the ESC´s casing is pierced. Thanks for setting me straight...

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Del. The overheating problem is not so big in a crawler or scaler. But in a high powered buggy it is. And yes, it's nearly impossible to get it leakproof with only cover the holes in the case. Water can find the smallest gaps.

[@Del350K4]

Even if it were possible to successfully seal around all the cables, the water would gleefully charge straight into the servo plug ports. Obviously it does that when you´re using the "potting" technique you demonstrate in this video, but you´ve proved that, with all the components embedded in epoxy, this simply doesn´t matter.

[@deroberharzer6309]

Good job-a fine idea to make the electronics waterproof.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Oberharzer!

[@알라너자신을-f5k]

Traxxas's EVX-2 and XL-5 Uses that epoxy coating.

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, some manufacturers uses also this method. 👍

[@PeteWylieRC]

What a great idea Matteo, thanks for sharing. I have been using the balloon method but it can fail if the car ends up under water for some time before it's rescued. I'll try this next time :-)

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Pete! Yes, I have the same experience with the balloon. The epoxy method works better.

[@NordicRC]

Very nice demonstration and explanation as usual. Thumbs up.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks my friend!

[@filipgruner4255]

Great instruction video! I've never seen this method, nice!

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Filip, yes works well but not reversible!

[@skarebsuper]

can you use regular hot glue instead? as its a much more non-permanent fix for waterproofing... removal is easy with alcohol.

[@Matteomeier]

Im not sure if it's possible to enclose it completely with hot glue. I think the hot glue is too stiff in viscosity. And it works only if everything is completely covered. You have to try it...

[@RickyRevorc]

Awesome method Matteo!! Great video as usual bro! Big thumbs up! I have a question what camera are you using it looks amazing?!

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Ricky! It's a Sony HDR CX-730.

[@michaelthomas3262]

Tolle verständliche Informationen, ein typischer Matteo eben 😉👍🏻

[@Matteomeier]

Vielen Dank Michael!

[@lugherini]

the cap on the glue upside down cost you the entire glue bottle, it will dry all in couple weeks loool

[@Matteomeier]

Haha, no, it's not so bad at all. The glue have to be completely mixed to start the chemical reaction. But thanks for your care! 👍

[@scalerc4x4]

Great video Matteo. I get asked a lot the same questions. I will send them this link. 👍😀✌️

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Tybo! Good to hear this!

[@nilsmuller6517]

Sehr gut werde ich bald mal ausprobieren 👍🏻

[@Matteomeier]

Danke Nils! Funktioniert sehr zuverlässig!

[@tamiyaniko8867]

thanks matteo .☺️ for your nice explanation then i got somE ideas to do my one ..

[@Matteomeier]

Glad it was helpful! 👍😊

[@jeffreylim5210]

Hello Matteo! Thanks for your video channel tips. It's wonderful.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks again Jeffrey, glad it is helpful!

[@CammieGee]

Excellent! Very informative, thanks for sharing.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks for your nice feedback!

[@ABID5]

putting epoxy caps in wrong order can cause hardening of the tube nozzle

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, but nothing happened, because the two fluids were not mixed. 👍😊

[@4x4rcenthusiasts88]

Thanks Matteo for these other useful tips!

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks for your nice feedback!

[@THEJOEBECK]

Let's say you accidentally covered that button & now need to remove it. But, it has already set & dried. How difficult would you say it is to remove the Araldite?

[@Matteomeier]

Good question, I would say it's very difficult. Because Araldite becomes very hard. I would try to grind it away with a dremel. But high risk to damage something...

[@adeyemibabatunde1814]

@Matteo's RC Movies Water can enter through the switches. How can the switches be made water resistance?

[@Matteomeier]

There are no switches, only the on/off switch. You can leave it on all the time and connect the battery to switch it on and off.

[@danrkelly]

Helpful as always.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks for your good feedback Dan! 😊👍

[@axialray241]

Thanks Mateo for sharing your knowledge 💯❤️💯👍

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks for your good feedback Ray!

[@satorrotas]

Really great work !! Nice video !!

[@Matteomeier]

Merci!

[@Robert8455]

Great tip! Thank you

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks to you! Glad it was helpful!

[@ReuelRukDeeRQuino]

Hi thankyou for teaching me that method but what is the name of that Epoxy glue BDW Thankyou so much

[@Matteomeier]

Its name is ARALDITE

[@ReuelRukDeeRQuino]

@@Matteomeier Oh Thanks

[@thegreatone6480]

Sehr verständlich erklärt, klasse. Dem Motor selber macht Wasser nichts aus ? Die Anschlüsse am Motor belässt du so ?

[@Moi-N53-Grad]

brushed Motoren funktionieren auch unter Wasser

[@schuaelitec7469]

@thegreatone Es tut Bruches Motoren sogar gut in SAUBEREN Wasser zu sein dänn reinigen sie sich selbst

[@Matteomeier]

Danke! Ja, wie meine Kollegen schon gesagt haben sind brushed Motoren nicht sehr empfindlich gegen Wasser.

[@RC383studio]

Great video my friend. Thumbs up for the good work!!!!! Very nice demonstration and explanation as usual!))

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks to you, my friend!

[@eng.knowledgeseeker]

amazing job

[@GeorgeChaidaris]

Matteo, hello. Great method overall but what about the connectors plugging onto the receiver? I would consider this a weak spot for water entry. Especially if the vehicle remains immersed for a couple of secs. What do you think?

[@Matteomeier]

No, the epoxy glue can added close around the connector board, so no problem with water goes inside. But if water too long rests in the connectors these can corride and this can makes some problems.

[@GeorgeChaidaris]

@@Matteomeier thank you for sharing your experience! Will be putting this method to the test pretty soon...

[@ryazbeck]

Thank you for this!

[@Matteomeier]

Glad it was helpful! 👍😊

[@RCjesus.David.2581]

Schönes Video, ich schaue gerne Videos von dir, sind wirklich sehr gut geschnitten/gefilmt. Wie schaut es denn aus mit LiPos & Wasser? Oder fährst du da NiMh?

[@Matteomeier]

Schön zu hören, Danke! Ich verwende Lipos, habe aber noch nie etwas abgedichtet daran. Hatte aber deswegen noch nie ein Problem mit meinen Hard Case Lipos.

[@EdnovStormbrewer]

How would you get a component out and replace if one of them fails?

[@Matteomeier]

As you can see, these controllers including only one component, the circuit board. So is not necessary to change something. If it's damaged you can put the whole thing away and buy a new one...

[@snap_fit8686]

Is this how they made waterproof esc ?

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, most.

[@IakovosZagoraios]

Very nice sharing of knowledge. Another great method/material is PlastiDip, I use it on all my electronics with good results. Keep up your great vids, always enjoy them!!

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks so much Iakovos! I tried it out with plasti dip also. But in contrast to epoxy plasti dip needs oxygen to dry. So, after closing the esc's cover, the Plasti Dip inside does not dry and it was a fail. Maybe it would work better letting it dry befor closing the cover. But is it enough space then, to close the esc cover?

[@IakovosZagoraios]

Sure Matteo, you have to let it dry and for best results apply a second coat. Usually I don't have a fitment issue, if need be you can trim it on the board edge. The plus side is that you can always remove this elastic cover, should you need to. But for sure, I will give a try to the epoxy method as well. Keep filming !

[@FarmakisRcManager]

Great vid my friend.thumbs up for the good work!!!!!

[@Matteomeier]

Thank you!

[@rc_crawler_zigzag84]

Hello. What news about this solution waterproof ? It's ok in time ? Thk

[@Dazed1Hobbies]

thank you Mattel for this helpful tip.

[@Matteomeier]

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

[@BuoyEngine]

This is useful! great idea!

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Buoy!

[@tinokung7554]

Hallo Matteo, ich habe bis jetzt immer mit Flüssiggummi gearbeitet, bin aber nicht so zufrieden mit dieser Methode. Gerade bei flexiblen Kabeln hatte ich mehrmals Schwierigkeiten. Ich habe jetzt gerade wieder ein solcher Fall. Die Elektronik hat versagt. Nach einer Weile (trocknen lassen) hats wieder funktioniert. Ich tippe auf den BEC. Was kannst du über Epoxi sagen? Hattest du irgendwelche Probleme damit?

[@Matteomeier]

Hoi Tino. Nein bissher keine Probleme. Ich denke wenn man darauf achtet das das Epoxi überall schön schliesst kann nichts mehr passieren. Der Nachteil ist halt das wenns mal drauf ist kriegt mans nie wieder weg. Hatte ähnliche Erfahrungen mit Flüssiggummi gemacht wie du. Übrigens sind auch einige Regler die ab Werk wasserdicht kommen mit der Epoxi Methode abgedichted. LG Matteo

[@tinokung7554]

Super danke, werde mir auch Epoxi besorgen!! Vielen Dank für deine Erfahrung.

[@rcnoypi8758]

I've been searching ideas on waterproof my cheap rc. But some methods they use are expensive like the liquid tape and conformal coating...is your method safe? And far cheaper..cheers Matt!

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, it's safe and works. Only thing is you cannot reverse it. If the epoxy is applied and dry it can be never removed, but normally this is not a problem.

[@rcnoypi8758]

@@Matteomeier not sure.if these araldite same I saw a red and white tube..super adhesive epoxy?

[@rcnoypi8758]

@@Matteomeier I saw some rc user use nail polish don't know if its effective.

[@Matteomeier]

For me this nail polish laquer is not so safe as epoxy

[@rcnoypi8758]

@@Matteomeier ok I will try the araldite 5 min epoxy..thanks Matt!

[@griminyt2354]

Can I waterproof with nail polish?

[@Matteomeier]

I'm not sure. I heard about this, but never tried it out.

[@spriggan98]

Any kind of epoxy?

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, but I think the best is a 30 min epoxy.

[@uncletom1971]

Great info! Thanks Matteo. Oh.. Araldite!? That is powerful. You can lift a real car with that.

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, strong and durable! Thanks Tomas!

[@GastonMaqueda]

Hi Matteo You don't have problem with the temperature in the ESC?

[@Matteomeier]

No, because the heat sinks are not covered with glue.

[@GastonMaqueda]

@@Matteomeier Thank you Matteo I did it yesterday night, following you instructions. I use plastic Epoxy. I didn't test it yet.

[@leonridgewell7484]

Nicely done!

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Leon!

[@leonridgewell7484]

No worries Matteo!

[@felixchong2002]

Thank you very much for the video. I’m going to try this method. Do u apply to gap under the heat sink?

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks! No, not a gap. 😊

[@rcgo2411]

When will next vid with toyota hillux???🚗🚗

[@Matteomeier]

Ahh, you like it! Let's see....

[@BlindDude]

thanks for the good info

[@Matteomeier]

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

[@henkvanderlaan9600]

nice video, i found it very useful.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks! Glad to hear this!

[@andreaskoumides9599]

Do you use standard tamiya ceramic grease or some sort of water proof grease.

[@Matteomeier]

I use standard grease.

[@andreaskoumides9599]

Matteo's RC Movies thanks for your reply

[@bestamerica]

' ESC can building up heater with glue... company warranty can be avoid it... better play R/C model on the dry area without getting watery / wetty

[@Matteomeier]

Of course this is the safest way, but it is a lot of fun to play in water with RC cars!

[@ggilesy]

Nice Vid Matteo. can you tell me if it matters about the connectors at the battery and the receiver as they are not insulated against water ingress?

[@Matteomeier]

The battery connectors are normally not a problem. On the receiver they can protected with silicone. This is removable, if nessecary.

[@Hamzamakesfunvideos]

YAY awesome video! I just subscribed to you now XD!! 🙂😄

[@Matteomeier]

Thank you! Glad to hear that! 👍😊

[@Hamzamakesfunvideos]

@@Matteomeier Yup

[@Remoteaddicted]

Super Video Matteo. Ich verwende dafür gerne Plasti Dip. Da lässt sich dann auch der Setup-Knopf zukleistern, denn das bleibt elastisch. 👍

[@Matteomeier]

Danke dir. Hab das auch schon mit Plasti Dip versucht. Hat aber nicht funktioniert. Das Problem war das Plasti Dip Sauerstoff benötigt um zu trocknen. Im inneren des Gehäuses blieb der Gummi Flüssig und das führte zum versagen. Und wenn ich die Platine ausserhalb des Gehäuses trocknen lasse bringe ich das Teil ja nicht mehr ins Gehäuse zurück, wie machst du das?

[@Remoteaddicted]

Zerlegen musste ich bisher noch keinen Regler :) Ich kaufe entweder wasserdicht oder packe den ganzen Regler/Servo ins Plasti Dip. Beim Tekin FXR funkt das super, da der auch keine Kühlrippen hat.

[@thxmateoli]

I want to do this to my rigid drill lithium batteries,just accidentally sprinkled a little water on one of them and no longer works

[@Matteomeier]

Normally lipo's are not so sensitive against water...

[@rckece4321]

how about a servo?waterproof?

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, I always use waterproof servos. From Power HD or Savöx.

[@thedumpydustman6088]

wouldn't clear silicone sealant work just as well buddy?

[@Matteomeier]

Silicone does not dry without oxygen. So inside the case, the silicone would be not dry. And after drying outside of the case it's not possible to put it back because of the larger size.

[@나침반투어러]

I can do this with FS Racing GR3E Reciever?

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, you can do this with every electronics.

[@davewarner8401]

thank you....any thoughts on the motor?

[@Matteomeier]

No problems with the Motor, brushed motors are not so sensitive against water.

[@spectraff788]

Iam very late bro to watch this vdio .my rc 4x4 hb zp is crasged broo i watched a vdio it telling th rc car is water proof i trusted him and i drive into water and my rc car is crshed bro☹️☹️☹️

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, this can happen. Electronics and water is not a good combination.

[@galihsaptono9068]

Is it safe if the settings button is exposed to water..

[@Matteomeier]

Yes, if the surroundings are good covered.

[@galihsaptono9068]

@@Matteomeier okay, it means it's enough around the switch to be covered

[@Matteomeier]

Exactly

[@azelfakhriza8925]

Which method is better? The plasti dip or epoxy glue??

[@Matteomeier]

I prefer the epoxy glue. Tried one time with Plasti Dip, but was fail because the Plasti Dip does not dry inside the case. It needs oxygen for drying.

[@azelfakhriza8925]

Matteo's RC Movies thx for the reply keep up the good work! ;)

[@aguilarsergio4323]

wow!!! excellent video...nice

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Sergio!

[@aguilarsergio4323]

Nice!!!

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Sergio!

[@FikiFirmansyah]

At first second i can guess your natives language not english

[@Matteomeier]

And after the second second I can guess you're very clever...

[@arimaw730p4]

good idea.

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks Bob!

[@buhayofwsaitaly7051]

anykind expoxy possible use

[@Matteomeier]

Yes. It should work.

[@buhayofwsaitaly7051]

thanks sir will try

[@wernerracingteam]

Gute Idee!

[@Matteomeier]

Danke! Funktioniert sehr gut. Lässt sich einfach nicht rückgängig machen, aber wozu auch?

[@TheSpeedy24]

"Plasti Dip" is better suited for this purpose

[@Matteomeier]

Thanks for your feed back! I tried it out with plasti dip also. But in contrast to epoxy, Plasti Dip needs oxygen to dry. So, after closing the esc's cover, the Plasti Dip inside does not dry and it was a fail. Maybe it would work better letting it dry befor closing the case. But then it's not enough space for the slightly thicker parts inside the case...

[@kiodiekin]

Never use expoxy it holds in heat

[@Matteomeier]

It's not heat, it gets only a bit warm during drying and this is not a problem...

[@Matteomeier]

It's a chemical reaction.

[@kiodiekin]

Matteo's RC Movies ya but it still holds in heat if there’s a load. My method there’s no problem. I’d never use this or silicone

[@kiodiekin]

fast forward to 19:32 kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2fKcpajdsicl9k

[@schuaelitec7469]

Super

[@Matteomeier]

Merci! Schliesslich müssen wir zwei die Wasserfahrten bei den Aarescalern hochhalten!

[@schuaelitec7469]

Matteo's RC Movies Stimmt 😘

[@schuaelitec7469]

Sorry falscher smily😂😀

[@Matteomeier]

+Schuäli Tec Wiso? Kannst auch mir ein Küsschen schicken, nicht nur deiner Freundin! 😂😂😂

[@abdroid99]

Me likey

[@Matteomeier]

Thank you! 😊👍

[@vihreelinja4743]

Well that was a waste of time and epoxy. That is not waterproof when you have an exposed button

[@Matteomeier]

Of course it's waterproof. The epoxy enclose completely the button, so the water can not enter. And the button itself have not a problem with water. I had never any issues with these esc's and water.

[@callumpearce4910]

60th viewer

[@Matteomeier]

And second comment, Thanks!