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How do you wire a bilge pump float switch? We show how to wire in a manual 12V bilge pump with a float switch, allowing the bilge pump to automatically activate when there is water in the boat bilge, but in this method we can override the float-switch in case of malfunction. Whether you have a Rule bilge pump, Whale bilge pump or another make, the wiring process is much the same. If you have an automatic bilge pump, then it already has a built-in float switch, but in this guide we focus on wiring a separate float switch with a manual electric bilge pump.
In the wiring installation of the 12V bilge pump the key elements are the 12V supply, a suitable fuse for protection, the float switch (which will be installed in the bilge), and a separate switch which can activate the bilge pump manually in the case of failure of malfunction of the float switch. In a previous video we wired the manual switch in series with the bilge pump float switch (which has its merits) but in this alternative method we wire the manual switch in parallel with the float switch, which has the benefit of allowing a manual override. Of course it would be quite easy to wire in a second manual switch to allow you to isolate the circuit in any event, we will leave that additional feature from this video, but will come back to that in a later more sophisticated setup with a main switch panel and master isolation switch
The basis of this electric bilge pump installation and float switch wiring is that there are two switches connected in parallel. In an ideal situation the bilge pump float switch keeps on doing its job and turning on the bilge pump when ever this is enough water in the bilge to trigger it, but in reality there are a couple of ways at least that things could malfunction. One is that the float switch could have some kind of internal failure with its electrical contacts. The other thing that might be more likely is that some debris in the bilge (eg a stray piece of rope, or a fender) could get lodged on top of the float switch and stop it rising with the water level.
The bilge pumps and float switch featured in this video can be purchased from the following links:
1100GPH Manual Bilge Pump: www.boatfittings.co.uk/p/12v_...
Bilge Pump Float Switch: www.boatfittings.co.uk/p/bilg...
A simple electric bilge pump comes with two wires, a positive and a negative wire. The impeller of the bilge pump is designed to turn in a specific direction, therefore it is important that the positive and negative bilge pump wires are connected the correct way round to their power supply. Any bilge pump should be protected by a suitable fuse, typically in the range 5Amps to 15Amps, but check with the instructions for your particular pump. In this guide we show you how to wire a 1100 gallons per hour bilge pump with a bilge pump float switch.
Starting from the positive 12V feed, we have the protective fuse (in this case a 5Amp fuse), this is connected to one of the wires from the bilge float switch (it doesn’t matter which). The other wire from the bilge pump float switch is then connected to the positive wire from the 12V bilge pump itself, this completes the positive side of the circuit. For the negative side of the bilge pump wiring, the negative feed wire is connected to the negative wire of the bilge pump. This circuit is then added to by putting a bypass wire from the positive feed to the bilge pump positive wire, via the manual override switch.
When connecting bilge pump wires, the connections should be kept in the dry. Where the wires enter the body of the bilge pump housing, the wires are sealed and the bilge pump itself can be fully submerged. Joints in the wiring, or connections to fuses and switches however should be kept safely above the bilge water level, or utilise waterproof connectors.
When choosing the position of the float switch, it should be approximately at the same height as the bilge pump, or a few cm higher. If the bilge pump float switch is too high then it will not be activated until the water has risen quite a long way. If the float switch is too low compared to the bilge pump then there would be a point where the float switch would have been activated but the water level would be below the bilge pump, hence the bilge pump would be pumping nothing but air.
When purchasing and wiring up bilge pumps ensure that the voltage of the bilge pumps match the boat supply voltage, most bilge pumps are 12V, but there are some 24V bilge pumps available.