How to Take & Catch a Lead Fall | Rock Climbing

[@jrblackify]

Also kids, always remember to belay with 10 feet of extra slack so when the leader has a bolt at his feet he still takes a 20 foot fall and almost decks.

[@arizonawut]

🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@HochstartHarry]

An almost deck is called a soft catch 😜 aslong as he dont touch the ground you good..

[@computername]

To all the people getting butthurt about the climber have a too long fall. Unlike other videos, this shows how massive a lead fall can be, thereby raising the awareness towards good belaying in lead climbing. Do you seriously think they couldn't do better? It is a very good demonstration how far a climber can go down, which most people underestimate. Ihe really dangerous fall is always when problems sum up, like the belayer too far from the wall, pulling the rope out too far for clipping, having a lot of slack, bolts being far apart etc. I find this a very eye opening lesson

[@andrewstickelman7702]

computername that's very true! I was climbing with someone 50lbs lighter than me and all of my falls were pretty big even though she had great technique. This is a great demonstration and shouldn't take place of a real class and plenty of practice anyways.

[@arpudli8962]

But I think it would be a better demonstration if he would actually fall...he barely passed the quickdraw

[@heybhey]

Everyone freaking out about the big fall without noticing their big weight difference. The belayer is a small guy. This is what happens when belaying someone heavier. There are ways to mitigate like stand closer to the wall (he doesn't appear to be doing so?), keep the rope tighter (but don't short rope!), and don't attempt to give a dynamic catch by doing anything other than getting ready to fly because it will be dynamic no matter what if you're lighter than your climber. You can also kneel while belaying, use a thicker rope, and try to sit down when they fall if you can do it in time. I think a big reason for his big fall is the weight difference and more rope out than necessary because the belayer is standing away from the wall. He's also using a tube device to belay and there tends to be more rope that escapes from those than a grigri when catching a fall, period.

[@GeorgeWitham-qb6ye]

The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. kzbin.infoUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.

[@elkanduong8580]

I am just so scared of lead falling

[@JJ-iu5hl]

So there were about 3 ft of rope between the climber's knot and his last bolt. The belayer ends up about 4 or 5 feet above where he was standing. The rope stretches slightly. But the climber still ended up almost decking? After the cameras were off, the climber told the belayer he was ever climbing with him again.

[@MrBrokoli99]

the belayer didn't even lock the carabiner....

[@jakesevins5179]

The leader's knot is about 5 ft above the bolt. The fall should therefore be about 10 feet. But there is rope stretch and the belayer gives a soft catch, so maybe 15 feet. This 20' fall just means the belayer had a bunch of slack out. That's fine if you KNOW the leader won't hit the ground, but if it's gonna be close, you have to keep less slack and don't jump. I've belayed nationals before... it's not as easy as it looks.

[@amdrewf3456]

True that lead belaying and climbing is so different than too rope belay

[@elkanduong8580]

Was he supposed to fall that far? He was only about 3 feet from hitting the ground.

[@Relic_of_You]

+Elkan Duong No he shouldn't have fallen that far.

[@Lucy-ng7cw]

Nope

[@migueldejesus443]

it's annoying that way the video is edited so that we don't clearly see the belayer demonstrate the jump technique.

[@WeehawPartner]

He should have fallen 5 feet not 20

[@antiwhatever5391]

Shawn Cope i saw that first fall...and thought the exact same thing! You should almost deck 3 moves from the top lol

[@LachlanGB]

The climber is already 5 feet above the last bolt he clipped. Just that alone equates to a greater than 10 feet fall ya silly goose

[@P0dDels]

Description isn't completely right. Imagine falling on a not even vertical rock wall as it happens most of the time outdoor. Just ''falling down'' as he describes it will probably brake you legs and knees. In certain situations you have to jump back to control your falling.

[@mikohayle]

There's time to give slack too?!

[@arpudli8962]

Imagine if he would really fall like 2m above the quickdraw, whit this much slack he would be in the ground

[@elkanduong8580]

How come Gaz fell so far?

[@420opticnapeshot2]

falling depends on the amount of rope dealt out and how far you are from the last draw after a while you get used to it

[@sofiad964]

How could someone be teaching us this when his Carabiner isn't locked. His climber fell way to far and was so close to hitting the floor.

[@yvonnes7874]

+Sofia D woah really looks like it isn't closed ... and what about "watching the climber"? He could have fallen earlier ...

[@audreygonzalez8866]

I'm pretty sure I saw him lock it at the end of the video after he caught that fall...c'mon dude check that sound of safety in the beginning

[@lydiabuhler7283]

it's not unlocked when they are climbing... just the initial first shot

[@samuelmuratalla6905]

Anyone know what kind of shoes the Belayer is using? I like those.

[@richardsmith1644]

We're not using static manila ropes anymore secured with around the body bowlines instead of harnesses and setting up body belays. Let the rope, the harness, and the draws do the energy absorbing and you do the "don't let my buddy hit his head on the ground" absorbing. I'm sorry but this is probably the most garbage belaying I've seen to date. Since when have we ever wanted to stand so far away from the wall? Or run and jump up to it? God forbid your buddy did take a good fall on real rock and you were standing so far away, now you're getting face slammed into the wall and when your friend decks out because of all the extra slack in the line and hits his head on a rock on the ground and DIES or is seriously injured. You belay close to the rock. It does a few things, it mitigates chance of getting hit by something falling, lessens the angle on his protection to prevent zippering, as well as it keeps him from decking out. If your buddy takes a fall and its that awkward distance of "can't run back, can't suck up slack" then you drop to your ass and hold the brake. I understand you're at a gym and there isn't protection, and the chance of falling rock... well its nonexistent. That being said the chance of there being sufficient slack between yourself and the wall exists and at no point should you allow that slack to occur to increase that fall distance.

[@deamicl]

+MrTestZone Unfortunately most people on here don't seem to know what they're talking about. Dynamic and soft catches are the preferred way of belaying a lead fall and hard catches are only useful for dangerous situations where there is groundfall potential or hitting an obstruction on the way down.

[@elkanduong8580]

What does he mean by falling down not out

[@Zharlega]

+Elkan Duong You should just fall straight down and not push yourself away from the wall before falling

[@supersaiyan7601]

The first time i tried this. I hit my head sadly and regret doing this the end.

[@Djaya75]

thx

[@stoyancinov2607]

why did i watch this XD